Toyota STUCK CV Axle? (Sienna V6 at 556k miles!)
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- čas přidán 27. 06. 2023
- The legendary 2000 Toyota Sienna V6 is back at the shop with over 555k miles on the clock!
It runs beautifully, but the Customer Complaint is: "Feels like a JACKHAMMER on the highway"!
With well over half a million miles on the ORIGINAL CV axle shafts, they are beyond worn out.
I hit a road block while trying to remove the passenger side axle from the intermediate bearing housing. The support bearing is SEIZED solid in the support housing/engine mount.
After doing some research, I believe this is the LEAST DESTRUCTIVE method of removing the stubborn axle.
BAD DOG TOOLS INDESTRUCTABLE DIAMOND CUTTING DISC: LIFETIME GUARANTEE
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Ingersoll Rand 118MAXK Long Barrel AIR HAMMER Kit, 3/8 in:
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Enjoy!
Ivan - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I own this same vehicle with 84,324k miles. Heard about the vehicle only driven to church on Sundays. This one belonged to the church. Mice ate wiring, it sat for 10+ years. Fixed wiring, new fuel pump, cleaned injectors, changed fluids, runs like new.
How did you cleaned injectors?
@@RotoRCol lol jerry rigged system. Carburetor cleaner heat sharing tubing and a battery charger along with a tire valve with the s header valve removed. I found it on CZcams. After cleaning and reinstalling injectors, car finally started but ran rough but the longer it ran the better it got. You can search this on CZcams
Wow 84 million miles is crazy. Sure got your money worth!
@RotoRCol Different vehicle but when I did my intake manifold I bought a $50 sonic cleaner to clean fuel injectors. I filled it with hot water from the kettle (I didn't trust the heating element in the cleaner), put the injectors and Seafoam (as a cleaning fluid) into a zip lock and put the zip lock in the cleaner, then did two 5 minute cycles. They came out looking brand new. Oh yeah I got a $15 injector activator too.
I appreciate using the correct term of "engine mount" instead of "motor mount"....Thank you, Ivan.
I have a farmer trick for you for future endeavors.
Wrap a chain around the CV axle inner cup.
Extend the chain away from the vehicle parallel to the axle and with a wrist flick motion get a whip action going in the chain.
The weight of the chain and whip motion combine to yank out the axle.
It is commonly done when removing the knife from a sickle mower or haybine type implement.
It will save the mount and eliminate the effort to change the mount
Has enough miles to got to the Moon and back, and still on the original CV axle - cars were better back then 🙂 Great to see a "no scanner, no modules" repair, for a change 🙂Great job, Ivan!
Hi Ivan. I have to hand it to you . Doing a job like that and performing the camera work at the same time . . I have done similar work and that would be quite a challenge. Very nicely executed ⚒🛠👍
Is that Sienna with less than 556,000 miles acting up AGAIN??🤣
If only the actual job was as easy as you make it look. Great job Ivan
Everything is easier when someone else does it 👍🏻
It really isn't that bad if you have the tools and air power lol
Holy crap! I haven't had to deal with those for so many years now. When I was doing them, it was on site. It would take me quite a few hours, but I'd manage to get them out without having to replace the mount. I'll have to go through my old pics or records to remember how I did them. Lol. I do remember a battle every time. What great memories! 🤣🤣😬
I'm just getting to your method or plan now....
A couple of years ago I actually had one come right out which was amazing never happens and I always antiseeze the new stuff in case it has to come out in the future
If it came out easy....The force was with you!
I started laughing on the onset of this installment. We saw the same thing in Saint Louis. When ever a Toyota came in needing a right axle I also quoted replacing the mount. Brought back memories. The 80-90's models did the same thing.
For **once** I actually knew exactly the problem from the thumbnail. I had an 08 Sienna, one of the most durable vehicles we've ever had (more like a Sherman tank with a sliding door), and I'd read about seized carrier bearings on the passenger side CV axle. We never had to replace either side before my wife decided she didn't want to keep it once the kids were gone, but man, I was **prepared** LOL. 😂. I swear those Sienna's were nearly indestructible.Thanks, Ivan!
Sure did need new axles and cv joints. That was a mess under there, Nice repair Ivan.
It amazing how far you can get with regular maintenance.
He said the boot gave out 200,000miles ago. I was amazed how far it went without regular maintenance.
Nice no lift required fix. A couple of floor jacks got you there. Keep up the good work!
Nice job Ivan, wow that's a lot of miles on that wagon. Owner must keep up with the services pretty well !
A very satisfying job because you know the customer is going to say "it drives like a new car".
I’ve been looking for a Sienna… now I’m going to look harder!!!
A stuck cv axle??? Ivan never ceases to disappoint in the crazy issues that find there way to this mechanical wizard. 500k miles is pretty impressive as well. And holy smokes I experienced this in a Lexus suv I owned of same year. That carrier bearing is stupid tough. I cut my axle with a sawzaw…haha 😂😂
“never ceases to disappoint” ? are you sure ??
@@CrimeVid
😄
Alternatively, "never fails to amaze"? 😂
This little problem went back into the 80's.and 90's.
My daughter sienna is at 370k... replaced with new alternator. Serpentine belt and idlers. Keeps on going like the rabbit 🐰🐰
Maybe Scotty is right after all with the Toyota brand. Nice fix and a happy customer, no doubt.
Ivan getting greasy, not a Pico scope in sight! Love it ! Great video !
I would be willing to bet the tripod bearings were frozen and when you would accelerate the bearings wouldn't let the axle move under the load and it would move the engine instead. With the oil leak that engine has I would say that deteriorated the engine mount. That car has about 40,000 miles more than my car. I probably won't ever need to replace the drive axles on it. Great video!
Ivan, i usually just unbolt the mount and remove it with the axle. Have done this when i needed to remove the axle snd it was still good. In your case, both mount and axle was shot, so likely faster doing it your way.
As I recalled, the mount has a hidden fastener that you must make a special tool to remove it.
Impressive vehicle. Sad that the OEM CV axle is a hard find and probably five times the cost. Fingers crossed the El Cheapo part lasts.
For a 2005 Toyota Sienna XLE, $560 for an OEM CV-axle and $110 for an aftermarket.
@@armchairtin-kicker503does anyone know who the oem manufacturer is? Is that public knowledge? It looks like lemforder
I would have gone with an original from a salvage rather than the Chinko crap.
@@topherd1011 dude it's on national backorder lol
@topherd1011 even if you order on those sites They order from the same place as the dealer. They let you place the order then a day later they send you the email saying it's a backorder item
Great videos Ivan. Welding cast is only for expert welders and would most likely break in a week in this case.
Are you implying that I'm not an expert welder? 😉 Look up Cobra Torch 2000, using cast iron filler rod 👌
I knew he wasn't going to weld it. That rubber was wrecked. :)
@@calholli But the smell! The wonderful, sulphurous smell! Who could resist? :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics let me go look. Lol I should have known. You are smarter than the average rocket engineer! Lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I just researched that torch, why has this magic been hidden from me all these years? I have collected over the years a Lincoln square wave TIG 355, Miller 250X mig welder, L-Tec plasma cutter, Purox O/A torch set, Lincoln Idealarc 250 stick machine, and all I really needed was a DCH2000 for the vast majority of jobs I do. I think I'm going to be sick...
Half a Million miles,......that's not too shabby! Personally, I get bored looking at the same dashboard for that long.🙂 Good work my Man.
Imagine buying another car because of boredom.. lol.
Get a hobby
@@calholli Fortunes and success has always come easy for me! Don't be jealous 😏
@@Iceeeen I don't know about yall. but I stare out the window when I drive. If you're bored with your daily-- get a 1000cc sportsbike and get your blood flowing. FEEL what power and acceleration really is.
@@calholli I prefer my 1979 750cc Yamaha to any sport bike... Plenty of torque and it won't kill you at WOT 😅
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Yeah.. I rode a 1980 Honda CX500 for years. It was a durable little bike. I put over 40k miles on it. lol.. But I got into CR500 dirt bikes and banshee's and 450R quads, 660 raptor, LT500 Quadzilla, etc.. and I found a 99 CBR 900 for $400, that was stripped naked, but wouldn't start. It ended up simply being the kickstand safety. :) -- So I bypassed that and was on the street right away; and quickly became addicted to that acceleration and power. You get used to it and learn how to not die. But it sure is FUN... I can tell how you are; a smart guy, a mans man.. You're not afraid to speed in those cars... I guarantee you, once you rode a 1000cc bike for a day, you would be hooked too. :)
Great job as always Ivan.
Good thinking. Nicely done Ivan !
That was much easier than the last couple have been. BUT you continue to succeed. Way to go.
My sister and husband have one of these vans with around 300,000 miles. Great vans!
Excellent video and a testament to old school Toyota engineering. I wouldn’t expect a German car to be that simple.
Always a good day when Ivan posts a new video!
Fabulous technique and skill to get this done with minimum destruction. It's technique and can do attitude that sets you apart. Great job 😀😀😀😀😀
It's jobs like these that make me miss dealer life. We had a dedicated washbay hoist and it was worth It's weight in gold to run a car like this on and smash the engine bay with degreaser and a hot pressure washer = like new engine bay before you even start working on it.
unbelievable how good you are, way much better than Erich'O South Main Auto or Ray°s in Florida. You would deserve way much more subscribers! Keep up good job your customers get appreciated! I got an odd issue on my 6 Years old Renault kangoo: recently the turn signal started to double speed flashing even though all bulbs were healthy. I tried to look up all forums and so on but nothing mentioned anything like that. I tried your troubleshooting method by starting going through the electrical system and I figured out that the only one aftermarket towing hook socket soaked with rainwater over the years what could not be dried out even at 40°C hot summer times. Once I drained the water and dried out the micro-switch the turn signal became normal. Interestingly there was not oxidation on the pins all were bright and shiny. I used a Hungarian-Russian solution and reinforced the sealant rubber cap with some silicone paste :)
I've had pretty good luck with Chinese axles. They are getting better at making simple mechanical parts, and getting the metallurgy correct most of the time. It's the electronic parts that are extra sketch.. and don't even work, right out of the box sometimes. (as you know very well).
Never had a problem with any reman axles, changed many
Thanks. I have a 2005 V6 Sienna. I’m the second owner. This information is valuable.
Muy bueno. Made it look easy . Very happy customer
If the boots would have been replaced it probably would not need the aftermarket axle. I just got a OEM used left axle for my old Camry (45K supposedly?) because the prior owner had it replaced with a Chinesium because the boot was bad on the original! Well this replacement has about 6K and the boot is trashed! NEVER throw away original Toyota parts. I also got a OEM used oil pan to replace that depressed one that someone pointed out to Me that I didn’t even notice. ( that was before the cataract fix) Nice work Ivan. 👍👍🇺🇸
I use to work at Toyota and had this and use to use destructive methods , although once came along a post on IATN from a mechanic in Maine his method is 100% ....worker for me there after . Flat Face bit on airhammer on the bearing retainer while having someone pry at the same time on the axle it starts coming right out. Not kidding i was shocked using that method as well as coworkers thereafter. I was basically posting on IATN at the time as well as others about our methods and this mechanic from Maine scolded us all lol , i felt pretty small but was happy i found another way .
Man you always come up with solutions I'd never think of!!
I had this issue on my 2001 camry about a year ago. Paid a shop to try replacing my axle, and they couldn't get it out. So I ended up cutting it just like you mentioned, but only one cut. Then i unbolted the engine mount, and shimmied it out through the pass side with the axle still attached. Put the mount back in after I hammered the old axle out, and the new axle wouldn't fit! Turns out the shop beat on the bearing race badly enough to close it up just enough to prevent the new axle from going in. Got a new Toyota mount and went with a Cardone remanufactured axle over the typical autozone kind. all good since!
That was the best educational video I have seen in a long time the grinder was the way to go 👍🏻
Interesting nice solution with cutting the mount with a diamond blade for salvaging the mount for welding if needed
Well done - and informative!
556K, Owner really loves it and took very very good care of it. An actual mechanical repair, no scanner needed. Nice Ivan. I would be throwing tools and screaming bad words.😁
Satisfying repair Ivan. There may be a lift in your future... lol
WOW. You make it look to easy. Way to go.
I have a 98 rav4 that has a center bearing setup that is similar to this, but it’s actually less ridiculous than the setup on the van because it’s not shared with a motor mount. Great work as usual!
Nice! Good analytical thinking!
Wow! you sure can think and conceptualize every job out before you touch anything...This video is great! beautiful install....If the owner "takes it easy" on the parts, they should last quite a while.....
I made a clamp that locks onto the shaft so I can use a long prybar to force it out using the subframe as the fulcrum
Nice work Ivan. Lucky for you, that's only FWD. I recently had to replace that same axle on a 2009 Toyota Venza V6 AWD. And let me tell you, that was messy to get out as it actually cracked the lower end of the snout of the transfer case when the axle bearing sleave came out with the axle. It looked like someone else had tried very hard and failed getting it out with a prybar or something. Luckily, I was able to salvage the old sleave and drive it back into the transfer case and install a new axle without any farther issues.
Tetris huh? Cool trick Ivan, you are so smart!!!
I will put that one in the memory bank. Great tip Ivan.
Hope the Chinese parts last more than one year. Great vehicle!
Nice fix Ivan!
I agree that the mount is probably "weldable"..I'm guessing it may be cast steel rather than iron, and weld fairly easily. But weld shrinkage can be impressive...after it cools, it would be neither the right size, nor round.
Welding around the inside of a stuck, pressed in bearing race is a removal method- the shrinking weld will reduce the OD, no slitting of the race even necessary. They are often loose enough to actually fall out.
I'm not suggesting that as a removal method for this job, just saying that welds can really distort things, replacement was a better idea, unless it's a rare unavailable part.
I really try to preserve OEM cv joints, they are so much better than replacements. Fix ripped boots right away, and regrease! It's worth saving the stock ones. Toyota and Honda sometimes specify grease amounts by weight, and it is usually much more than those packages that come with the replacement boots. Be sure to use molybdenum disulphide grease.
I have 2 Corollas, 410k and 350k with original CVs, not original boots, though.
Thank you,I’m getting tools and parts to replace both right and left passenger axle and engine mount on my 2001 Toyota Sienna.
Eric O would break out “big nasty” and a torch. I love his videos
Ex Toyota Tech here.... Air hammer on the mount on the bearing circumference area, and BIG prybar pushing axle outboard against bracket, SIMULTANEOUSLY! It always worked.
I agree. It is the best way if one has access to an air hammer. (View ”how to replace passenger side cv axle toyota sienna 2015” on the “automotive tech-vet”-channel.)
@@armchairtin-kicker503 2015? This one has 15 more years of corrosion 😆
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics The two Toyota techs placed no age nor condition restrictions on the method. Until proven otherwise, I would take their word for it--especially if I had access to an air hammer and smoothing bit. It seems to me the air hammer pulverizes the rust into dust, breaking the weak molecular connections of the rust, the carrier bearing seeking a point of equilibrium, a point which is outside of the bracket.
Super easy to do. Camry has same thing which I've replaced countless times. Mind ya, not in rust belt lol. I brake cleaned everything under it. But you didn't do any brake clean action lol lol. Great video, Ivan!
I had to do the same job on an 08 camry with the V6. I ended up just cutting the axle with a sawzall and installed a new bracket. Vibration completely fixed.
I literally just went through this Saturday on a rav 4. Tried for 2 hours to beat it out took bolts out of bracket and ended up cutting the axle with torch between bearing and transfer Case
nice job, good for another 500k
Great job this was my morning Breakfast
Hoping to get this many miles from my 2004 Sequoia V8. Has around 175,000 miles. Runs like a clock. Love the air hammer, handy tool to have.
The best channel on CZcams. Keep the videos coming.
Got to love that passenger side mount axle hole
Wow finally seen you so a simple job
That is a great, least destructive repair. The non-moving steering wheel tells the story: fixed!
Good job, Ivan. If you recall me mentioning when I was there with the Grand Caravan, this is the exact car down to the color that my father-in-law had and which he donated at 215k miles (had plenty of life left). Wish I had met you a bit earlier and I would've given it to you to use as a loaner to replace the Olds. Anyway, he had a torn inner boot a few years ago and I ran into the same problem with the bearing. Since I caught it early and the joint was still good, I used a Flexx Boot 3000 with a cone tool to stretch a new boot onto the joint after disconnecting the axle from the hub; the kit came with new grease and the cone; it was tough to stretch on but it worked and it got me out of a jam; of course, that wasn't an option in your case, but thought I'd let you know anyway.
Boot replacement is easy, just remove the inner joint without removing the entire axle 😊
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Interesting, I didn't think of that, but I think I see what you mean; so you're saying that I could roll the inner joint out of the housing then knock the joint off the shaft, install the boot, regrease and put the joint back in; kinda messy for sure, but that's good to know; thanks for the tip. Fwiw, the Flexx Boot worked pretty well too but takes some muscle to stretch it on.
Having studied this job intensely, this is a destructive way of removing the passenger-side Toyota CV axle from the clutches of the infamous carrier bearing bracket. I presented the non-destructive method, requiring an air hammer, a tool I did not have, in another comment on this video. What you will need for this destructive method is a Milwaukee 2821 Sawzall, a 6-inch Lenox thick-metal Lazer CT carbide tip blade, cutting fluid, a welder’s flame resistant full face balaclava, a welder’s long sleeve shirt, and eye protection as well. You will also need an assistant to turn the driver-side front wheel clockwise on command.
First mark all around the passenger-side CV axle about 2-inch from the left-hand side of the carrier bearing bracket. Then take a punch and prick the axle a half-dozen places around the axle, giving the blade a place to seat. After covering the blade in cutting oil, cutting flush with the back of the tulip, the inboard joint housing, cut from the outside to the center as your assistant turns the CV axle. Over multiple passes, you will feel the lumps of metal that need to be cut down. Hot metal flakes will fall like glitter and you will appreciate the balaclava and long sleeve shirt. When the blade starts throwing sparks, stop and douse it with more cutting fluid. After you have cut through the right-hand side, cut through the left-hand side using the same procedure. Then you are free to remove the remnants of the CV axle and bracket as well. First, remove the right-hand side of the axle. Then unbolt and remove the bracket. Finally remove the left-hand side from the transmission.
To remove the remnants of the CV axle from the carrier bearing bracket, place it in a vise with the right-side up and drench it in Liquid Wrench. Let it set for 4-6 hours or overnight. Holding the bracket, take a half-dozen swings at the left-hand side of the CV axle with a 4lb sledge hammer and it should pop right out.
Of special note, I did filled passage around the carrier bearing with Red “N” Tacky grease a week before the job. I replaced the carrier bearing impingement bolt with a M10x1.25mm Zerk fitting that I found on eBay. (The bolt holding on the protective bracket can be replaced with a M8x1mm Zerk fitting, it also leads to the center passage as well, so it is your choice.)
Cutting axle in half = destructive
Ivan, I once had an older Toyota that has that same type of inner tripod cv joint, which consists of three rollers that slide up and down a matching cylinder. This car had a weird shake and shimmy at certain speeds, and especially on acceleration. The previous owner changed both axles, but to no avail. I could tell the car had been lowered, so I measured the distance of the center line of the wheel to the center line of the transmission output, shaft, and found almost 2 inch difference in height. Reading about those tripod joints, I found they were not designed to handle too much of an angle change. so I installed new springs and presto-chango the shaking was gone.
Great video, but I would have steam cleaned it first. 😂😂😂
Oh yeah, same for a 2011... brutal. I did one and I ended up cutting the inner shaft and then removing the bracket and getting it apart. Can be a real monster. 2011 bracket isn't part of motor mount.. makes it a little easier
Very cool, probably need to replace the other engine mount/s as they got 555555555000miles on them.😎
1MZFE engine I bet! Bullet proof with regular oil changes.
I really loves the birds singing.
I did this job 3 years ago in 2020 as I was replacing the transmission in a 2000 ES300. That bearing was available at the Toyota dealer. I had to replace it for some reason. I can't remember if it was because it was worn out or I damaged it when I removed it. I might have unbolted the mount from the engine and tweaked it over enough to get the alignment dowels out and then removed the mount and axle as a unit and worked on it when it was removed from the car. I do not remember having much trouble as it was not an interference fit.
And things are just as rusty here.
Trivia... In that year, the Lexus got a different transmission than the Camry, and it was probably the heaviest passenger car transmission I have ever handled. I can deadlift pretty much any automatic transmission, but I could not do it to this one.
Lenox also makes a diamond-tipped wheel. I've had one for years, and it just won't quit!
That looks as much fun as trying to get the gas. Tank Pins straps out of my 92 Camry.
Did one of these on a camry few weeks ago. Those just house the carrier and aren't a mount as well. Unbolted and took cv out with OEM cv puller tool. Tried to get it in the press but ended up using a torch and hammer method. Next time I'll just chop it off haha.
Thanks Ivan!
Toyota's integrated outside oiling system is going full blast on that engine. How much oil is flowing out from the valve covers?
The oil leaks is hard on rubber products no doubt . However the rest of that area probably is not rusing to bad . Seems i read a long time ago it was recommended to spray oil into the frame of the older corvette and let it drip dry to help with rust protection..
Sometimes less force and more finesse is required.
While it's easier with a lift , I use a very long and heavy punch (lot of mass) with a 3 lb hammer, apply a little heat to the carrier, (no need to get it cherry red or burn the shop down) everything in moderation.
Give firm and deliberate blows to the punch/axle, give it a turn now and again. Remember moderation, pounding on it with air hammers and prying and carrying on do nothing.
You would be surprised how this works so well, counterintuitive to say the least.
But remember the story about the 2 bulls on top of the hill looking over a heard of cows ........
Back in 1978 I had a 1972 Toyota Celica. Tough as nails.
Me too! Except for the broken timing chain tensioner and cam follower...
very good video, thank you
I've had good luck with Detroit Axle chinesium. They seem to be a cut above. They are a little pricey but so far, good service.
Nice Job Ivan. Hey you ever changed the U- joints on the front right Axle of a 1994 F-250 or 350 the inside one. Boy Ford bright idea on that one is just PLAIN CRAZY..Isn't it. Either you change the inner one on the truck. Or you pull the whole front Rear too split it to get pin out to pull axle..I did one for a Friend of mine. I told him That's a way to become Unfriends...LMFAO...LMAO... 😂 😂 😂.Great Job Sir as always. You do Great work ..
I have never been able to remove one one these without an acetylene torch. The fire wrench is now my first and only choice for this job.
What exactly do you torch?
Think I've mentioned them before but at the risk of repeating - in the U.K. all vehicles over three years old have to have a basic roadworthiness test - it's not exhaustive even though exhaust emissions are measured. However; a broken rubber boot on a CV joint is a fail - off road until fixed unless you wanna chance your arm with no tax (license plate). As they've put up ANPR cameras everywhere (I think there's one actually in my bathroom) it's not a good idea - big fine and they can crush your car.
Sounds great. They really care about safety and have a great amount of faith in and respect for their citizens 🙄
We have a great place that rebuilds them as well as steering racks/boxes. In Ontario California. They install too and do a great job.
ive used a chain wrapped around the inner cv housing with a slide hammer. comes right out. or you can use a large prybar and pry against the inner drive axle cup while rotating the wheel. right close to the trans.
@@billbarney4937 those tricks would not apply to this particular problem... 🙄
B4 I even watch the whole video... Just take your Air hammer (flat top) & the vibration on the bottom of the carrier bearing housing ( remove the 12 or 14mm bolt on the bottom ) And it'll walk the bearing right out of the carrier housing every time AND the splines OUT of the diff in 1 piece !!!!!! E-Z peazy !!! NO cutting the mount, OR any need to replace ANYTHING except the axle !!!!!
Well done.
Why write a comment when you can write a book. I once owned a ‘92 DSM AWD turbo that had an axle like this except the carrier bearing was on the driver's side of the car in one of those impossible to reach positions. Anyway, the engine was smoking and needed valve seals. I was working some crazy job where every five weeks I got a 4 day weekend. I collected the parts and tools I needed and on a Friday night, first day of my 4 day weekend, I went to my shop to start the job.
What’s this grease all over the underside of the car? Ahh, I’ve got a split axle boot. Saturday, I pick up a repair kit and pull the axle. I realize my four day weekend is about shot so decide to put off valve seals for 5 weeks.
Five weeks have past so time to do valve seals. Whats all this new grease under the car??? The boot I put on looks pregnant, like a guppy about to give birth. Apparently the grease supplied in the axle boot kit was not compatible with the axle boot. See the above paragraph.
Another 5 weeks has passed. Finally, the valve stem seals get replaced.
Cool trick but this job did you a diservice - it never allowed you to use a scope 😂
This is a nice example of why as a layperson customer I don't DIY much beyond changing oil or a battery. This is one of those 'snowball' situations where things can get much worse before they get better.
Given the knowledge and proper tools, this job is well within reach of DIYers. That stated, I don't do engine rebuilds, transmissions or disassemble dashboards. "Man's gotta know his limitations."--Dirty Harry, Magnum Force (1973)
My Holden VY SS Commodore has that sort of vibration at 60 km/h (40 mph) which I think is caused by a buckled wheel rim because it does wobble in first gear when the rear wheels are lifted off the ground.
I have had 2 of them straightened which I am yet to paint then throw back.on the rear of the car & I am going to get those 2 rear rims straightened then I am going to repaint them as well.
They were made by the R.O.H. wheel company in Australia which is closed now & the car is 20.5 years old now & the new old stock rims cost a fortune if I can get them.
I have replaced the CV joints in the back of the car so I hope one of them isn't jammed up now but I am sure that the shimminess was there before I replaced them !
My wife had a '97 Camry with a similar arrangement when we met. Now I know why that bolt and housing were so obliterated by hammering! I never dealt with it, because she had the axles replaced early on and bought a lifetime warranty. When they needed to be replaced a second time, she took it back to the original shop. She sold that car with over 250,000 miles. Now the '07 that replaced it is coming up on 200,000 miles. The 4-banger in the old one leaked oil, and the newer one burnt oil - until I started using heavier oil.
Same thing happened to me. Wife had a camry with a stuck cv axle. If I only knew what was in store for me when I went to replace it! 😞
I have one pushing 300k love it .. problem free engine wise..broke coil spring and bad automatic door cable the only problems.. knock on wood
As someone who drives a high mileage Toyota my advice? If you plan to keep your vehicle long term keep an eye out for some low mileage used axles. I bet you could track down a low mileage set in a southern scrap yard that are otherwise in good condition. I did this for mine when the boots went and they started clicking. OEM replacements would have been £400 just for one side, worth more than the vehicle. Got a used set from a scrapyard off a low mileage vehicle for £40 and £60 respectively.
The Chinese ones might only last a few months depending on your mileage.