COMLIMENT & QUESTION: Very helpful and better than manufacturers instructions. BUT, after putting fluid in and placing fork in a vice for ease of handling, it was an easy matter to reassemble without compressing the spring. Iam wondering why two people were needed to finish reassembly.
🤔 when the fork cap was originally removed, the spring was not putting any pressure on the cap. When we put it back together, with the new spring, there was likewise no pressure on the new cap to install. Did we miss some step?
Supplement, my mechanic grabbed the shaft through the spring coils, with a little down pressure using needle nose vice grips and that eliminated any need for strong pressing.
Same type forks and same brand cartridges for a SV650. Installation procedure was the same. let me say, Iam not a fork expert, I am relating what my mechanic did. The fork was clamped vertically in a vice. He gently pressed the fork spring down while keeping the threaded tube pulled out, then needle nose vice grip went through the spring and gently clamped the rod stopping the rod from falling down into the fork.. From this point he easily threaded the cap onto the rod, released the vice grips and screwed on the top. No strong arm effort required.
Great video! It's very helpful. I'm planning to buying this kit for my Ninja 400 which has pretty much the same front fork as R3 How do you like the Andreani fork kit? Do you have to keep the top out spring in the fork or do you take everything out?
Just ordered these cartridges for my 06 SV650 and expect them to entail about the same procedure. At this point they are a week out in the mail and I'm trying to get supplies and materials prepped for the install. Can you tell me what the recommended Ohlins oil is in cSt and how much is required? Also, you mentioned that the spring compression was a two person job, do you have any specific tips for accomplishing that?
Jim Truncali spring compression and tightening lock nut need two people unless you have awesome strength or the correct tool. I've since made my own spring compressor. It says on the instructions with the cartridges which oil to use. I can imagine you'll only need a litre of oil. Instructions will tell you to fill to a certain level.
Liger-Zero I would have to measure. From memory it's about 113 or 117mm. A fair bit less than stock. Never had a problem with bottoming out or topping out. I've set my sag to about 25mm.
thanks, with the help of a big friend lifting the front wheel off ground, distance between lower triple clamp to dust seal is 162mm, im shock of "that much?!" expression on my face with your number, i probably take off 50mm of my measurement
so i decided to send andreani an email, and they reply within half hour, awesome here is how they reply: "the 125mm is the measure of the full stroke/travel. So this measure you cannot have from the assembled bike. But actually the measure you have to take of 24-28mm for racetrack and from 26-30mm for road use is from under the lower triple clamp to the axle center. So the bike got to sink in that measure from fully extended (On a lift)" I guess in my case, i have to take off the 37mm from lower triple clamp, and count the measuring in the middle of the fork leg to fork seat to get the correct measurment
Did you have to grind the top of the forks to take the bushing out? I'm kind of sketched out about permanently altering the fork tubes considering a new set is over $1,000
thanks for the video. I'm fitting r6 cartridges in fz6 forks.. I did this on a junk fork, and i'm left with a ring on the inside of the fork leg, just above the bushing. I beat the bushing out, so I damaged this metal ring. Does it matter? I knocked it the rest of the way out--my cartridge fits. I'm just unsure about that little ring helping center the cartridge or something. I'm also thinking about sliding the bushing back in, because on my fork leg once it came out, some washers and stuff behind it came with. The cart will fit through the bushing now. I would love some input from someone who's done this. I also notice the tube is about 1mm bigger ID for the length of the bushing at the bottom. Not sure if this part being thinner than the rest of the fork is a hazard or not.
Unfortunately I only know about the stock forks and the Andreani kit. I have the workshop manual but these forks are very basic. Don't know about other forks. I have an R7 now so will do the forks in the future with the Ohlins kit when I feel rich. 😊
@@cillion5 wow thanks for the answer! well, was there ANYTHING left inside the bottom of the fork, if you recall that? My plan after some more poking around is to knock the bushing out of my other fork. on the FZ6, there's just some washers behind a straight tubular bushing that reduce the ID to fit the damper rod. Once I knock the bushing, and washers out, I'll put the bushing back in and peen the edge back over to hold it in. once again thanks for the video, I wouldn't have thought to modify the oem forks if I hadn't seen this video.
top out spring for my carts requires the bushing. so in it goes. Sorry for the semi irrelevant comments, I just want to be thorough in case someone stumbles upon my comment in the future
Dan T yes. The internals are about the same. Difference being the MT-09 has upside down forks. Make sure you have the workshop manual. Any Yamaha dealer can get it in for you on CD. Cheaper than hard copy.
Liger-Zero yes and no. This bike has ABS. Because I put the vortex clipons on the original brake line fouled the instrument cluster. It's a short piece to a junction under the fuel tank. There's a mixture of solid and rubber lines so hard to do all in braided lines.
Gah - fork lowers being smashed into the concrete with no towel underneath made me cringe. As well as flip-flops in a working garage enviro :D Fun vid though! Thanks for the walk through.
Very helpful video! I fitted my '08 kawasaki 650 with Misano Cartridges few weeks ago. The difference is big on the street, much more comfortable! But somehow the adjustment of Compression and Rebound doesn't seem to change anything. I don' t achieve the same level of rebound damping as you do by fully closing the Rebound adjuster : the front comes right up. Also when I ride over some holes, I hear a metallic sound, as if the forks reach maximum extension. Any idea what could cause this? Bad installation?
I ordered the kit with springs adjusted to my weight. I get 40mm of sag with no preload. But even standing next to the bike (as you do with the R3), I don't have this slow rise of the front when the rebound is fully closed.
I'm guessing the Misano kits are similar to the Andreani ones in how they operate. The adjustment range has to be set before the forks are put back together. You'd have to ask your installer to check that. Compression doesn't work either?
The kit I used don't have bump stops in them at all so it's a bad idea for them to bottom out or top out as it's a hard stop. That's why they say 'race use only'.😀
Adjustment range is 4 turn for both legs, as specified by Andreani. Compression works well, I can feel the changes by turning the adjuster. On rebound I can get a good setup with no oscillations (1 turn from closed) when pressing the front of the bike, but fully closing it doesn't get me a really slow movement.
Best practice is to crack the fork cap and bottom bolt loose before removing the fork legs (loosen top clamp bolt first tho). Then pull the fork legs and disassemble. The spring tension is usually enough to keep the cartridge or damping rod (depending on the internals) from spinning when trying to loosen the bottom bolt. If you need more spring tension, you can set the fork cap on a rag on the floor and compress the fork a bit while you loosen/tighten the bottom bolt (if your fork has a preload adjuster, the same can be achieved by adding preload to put tension on the cartridge/damping rod). The same goes for assembly of the fork leg. Dry fit everything with the fork cap left finger tight. Install bottom bolt and torque to spec. Then take the cap/spring/spacer out of the top again and fill/burp/set oil height.
There's something oddly satisfying about this video, especially without music. Thanks for posting. Great video.
Files only cut in ONE direction, dude; and what a great job of protection the fork tips from that concrete !
I ordered mine Friday, can't wait to get them in! I'm super stoked about the range of adjustability after watching your video
And changing oil weights make a noticeable difference too.
Great clean sharp pictures, easy to follow what you are doing, look forward to seeing more content
COMLIMENT & QUESTION: Very helpful and better than manufacturers instructions. BUT, after putting fluid in and placing fork in a vice for ease of handling, it was an easy matter to reassemble without compressing the spring. Iam wondering why two people were needed to finish reassembly.
The spring has to be compressed so the lock nut can be tightened. Without the proper tools it's not easy.
🤔 when the fork cap was originally removed, the spring was not putting any pressure on the cap. When we put it back together, with the new spring, there was likewise no pressure on the new cap to install. Did we miss some step?
Supplement, my mechanic grabbed the shaft through the spring coils, with a little down pressure using needle nose vice grips and that eliminated any need for strong pressing.
Are you talking about the standard forks or have you installed forks like these?
Same type forks and same brand cartridges for a SV650. Installation procedure was the same. let me say, Iam not a fork expert, I am relating what my mechanic did. The fork was clamped vertically in a vice. He gently pressed the fork spring down while keeping the threaded tube pulled out, then needle nose vice grip went through the spring and gently clamped the rod stopping the rod from falling down into the fork.. From this point he easily threaded the cap onto the rod, released the vice grips and screwed on the top. No strong arm effort required.
Your knowledge is awesome
Someone knows what they're doing 👌🏻
Wowww!!!
Thanks you so much for all !!
Wow this was amazing
Awesome video man!!
Great video! It's very helpful. I'm planning to buying this kit for my Ninja 400 which has pretty much the same front fork as R3
How do you like the Andreani fork kit?
Do you have to keep the top out spring in the fork or do you take everything out?
Hey great video
+RevToTheRedline Thank you.:-)
better to watch without any music like other video. nice
Just ordered these cartridges for my 06 SV650 and expect them to entail about the same procedure. At this point they are a week out in the mail and I'm trying to get supplies and materials prepped for the install. Can you tell me what the recommended Ohlins oil is in cSt and how much is required? Also, you mentioned that the spring compression was a two person job, do you have any specific tips for accomplishing that?
Jim Truncali spring compression and tightening lock nut need two people unless you have awesome strength or the correct tool. I've since made my own spring compressor. It says on the instructions with the cartridges which oil to use. I can imagine you'll only need a litre of oil. Instructions will tell you to fill to a certain level.
Awesome thanks for the video
i have mine installed! and it feels so nice
by the way, do you know the full travel distance for the fork kit? i need the number to set the sag
Liger-Zero I would have to measure. From memory it's about 113 or 117mm. A fair bit less than stock. Never had a problem with bottoming out or topping out. I've set my sag to about 25mm.
thanks,
with the help of a big friend lifting the front wheel off ground, distance between lower triple clamp to dust seal is 162mm, im shock of "that much?!" expression on my face
with your number, i probably take off 50mm of my measurement
so i decided to send andreani an email, and they reply within half hour, awesome
here is how they reply:
"the 125mm is the measure of the full stroke/travel.
So this measure you cannot have from the assembled bike.
But actually the measure you have to take of 24-28mm for racetrack and from 26-30mm for road use is from under the lower triple clamp to the axle center.
So the bike got to sink in that measure from fully extended (On a lift)"
I guess in my case, i have to take off the 37mm from lower triple clamp, and count the measuring in the middle of the fork leg to fork seat to get the correct measurment
Liger-Zero I measured how much travel I'm getting and the most I can get is 114mm. Using a cable tie on the fork.
Did you have to grind the top of the forks to take the bushing out? I'm kind of sketched out about permanently altering the fork tubes considering a new set is over $1,000
thanks for the video. I'm fitting r6 cartridges in fz6 forks.. I did this on a junk fork, and i'm left with a ring on the inside of the fork leg, just above the bushing. I beat the bushing out, so I damaged this metal ring. Does it matter? I knocked it the rest of the way out--my cartridge fits. I'm just unsure about that little ring helping center the cartridge or something. I'm also thinking about sliding the bushing back in, because on my fork leg once it came out, some washers and stuff behind it came with. The cart will fit through the bushing now.
I would love some input from someone who's done this. I also notice the tube is about 1mm bigger ID for the length of the bushing at the bottom. Not sure if this part being thinner than the rest of the fork is a hazard or not.
Unfortunately I only know about the stock forks and the Andreani kit. I have the workshop manual but these forks are very basic. Don't know about other forks. I have an R7 now so will do the forks in the future with the Ohlins kit when I feel rich. 😊
@@cillion5 wow thanks for the answer! well, was there ANYTHING left inside the bottom of the fork, if you recall that? My plan after some more poking around is to knock the bushing out of my other fork. on the FZ6, there's just some washers behind a straight tubular bushing that reduce the ID to fit the damper rod. Once I knock the bushing, and washers out, I'll put the bushing back in and peen the edge back over to hold it in.
once again thanks for the video, I wouldn't have thought to modify the oem forks if I hadn't seen this video.
top out spring for my carts requires the bushing. so in it goes. Sorry for the semi irrelevant comments, I just want to be thorough in case someone stumbles upon my comment in the future
Hi and nice vid. Would this be the same as the kit for the Mt09 cause i wanna attempt this myself?
Dan T yes. The internals are about the same. Difference being the MT-09 has upside down forks. Make sure you have the workshop manual. Any Yamaha dealer can get it in for you on CD. Cheaper than hard copy.
@@cillion5 LOL, Who had a CD/DVD player on their PC anymore? I need the PDF! :D
looking at your video again, do you have the steel braided brake line installed?
Liger-Zero yes and no. This bike has ABS. Because I put the vortex clipons on the original brake line fouled the instrument cluster. It's a short piece to a junction under the fuel tank. There's a mixture of solid and rubber lines so hard to do all in braided lines.
can you post the link where you get the brake line? i want to get them too
Liger-Zero I used a HEL braided line as there was a local supplier and they make to order/size.
i really wish i could do it in my own, but i dont have that space and time to do it
Gah - fork lowers being smashed into the concrete with no towel underneath made me cringe. As well as flip-flops in a working garage enviro :D Fun vid though! Thanks for the walk through.
Very helpful video!
I fitted my '08 kawasaki 650 with Misano Cartridges few weeks ago. The difference is big on the street, much more comfortable!
But somehow the adjustment of Compression and Rebound doesn't seem to change anything. I don' t achieve the same level of rebound damping as you do by fully closing the Rebound adjuster : the front comes right up.
Also when I ride over some holes, I hear a metallic sound, as if the forks reach maximum extension.
Any idea what could cause this? Bad installation?
Do you have the correct weight springs? They may not be stuff enough.
I ordered the kit with springs adjusted to my weight. I get 40mm of sag with no preload.
But even standing next to the bike (as you do with the R3), I don't have this slow rise of the front when the rebound is fully closed.
I'm guessing the Misano kits are similar to the Andreani ones in how they operate. The adjustment range has to be set before the forks are put back together. You'd have to ask your installer to check that. Compression doesn't work either?
The kit I used don't have bump stops in them at all so it's a bad idea for them to bottom out or top out as it's a hard stop. That's why they say 'race use only'.😀
Adjustment range is 4 turn for both legs, as specified by Andreani. Compression works well, I can feel the changes by turning the adjuster. On rebound I can get a good setup with no oscillations (1 turn from closed) when pressing the front of the bike, but fully closing it doesn't get me a really slow movement.
did you changed the stock shock for those whith adjusment, then you added the new Kit?
Donny Vargas I added the Ohlins rear shock about 1 month later.
so what do you do if the cartridge spins while tightening the bottom bolt?
Best practice is to crack the fork cap and bottom bolt loose before removing the fork legs (loosen top clamp bolt first tho). Then pull the fork legs and disassemble. The spring tension is usually enough to keep the cartridge or damping rod (depending on the internals) from spinning when trying to loosen the bottom bolt. If you need more spring tension, you can set the fork cap on a rag on the floor and compress the fork a bit while you loosen/tighten the bottom bolt (if your fork has a preload adjuster, the same can be achieved by adding preload to put tension on the cartridge/damping rod). The same goes for assembly of the fork leg. Dry fit everything with the fork cap left finger tight. Install bottom bolt and torque to spec. Then take the cap/spring/spacer out of the top again and fill/burp/set oil height.
Woww amazing kerennnnnn
those were not stock top bolts at the start. did you install spacers and new nuts?
jack black correct. They were cheap preload adjusters off eBay. They certainly didn't help with the deficiencies of the stock forks.😊
did you buy them from R3 racing or is there an Oz dealer for those cartridges?
jack black got them off eBay. Thailand I think.
any comparision with the K-Tech cartdrige?
cachidril I don't know. K Tech were a lot more expensive so Andreani were the only other choice at the time.
Cost $$ ???
abs????
minh phan yes
cillion5 :What's your nationality
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