Video

Grease packet that comes with chain.

Unfortunately I only know about the stock forks and the Andreani kit. I have the workshop manual but these forks are very basic. Don't know about other forks. I have an R7 now so will do the forks in the future with the Ohlins kit when I feel rich. 😊

@@cillion5 wow thanks for the answer! well, was there ANYTHING left inside the bottom of the fork, if you recall that? My plan after some more poking around is to knock the bushing out of my other fork. on the FZ6, there's just some washers behind a straight tubular bushing that reduce the ID to fit the damper rod. Once I knock the bushing, and washers out, I'll put the bushing back in and peen the edge back over to hold it in. once again thanks for the video, I wouldn't have thought to modify the oem forks if I hadn't seen this video.

top out spring for my carts requires the bushing. so in it goes. Sorry for the semi irrelevant comments, I just want to be thorough in case someone stumbles upon my comment in the future

110 front 140 rear. i have those same Pirelli Diablo tires on my R3, they work flawlessly in summer and have a lot of grip in winter too

400ml as req (stock settings)

Rear Sprocket nuts-68Nm/49ft lbs Front sprocket-75Nm/54ft lbs Axle nuts-57Nm/41ft lbs

​@@deedle6073Sprocket nuts more tight than the axle nut?? whaaaat😂

Best practice is to crack the fork cap and bottom bolt loose before removing the fork legs (loosen top clamp bolt first tho). Then pull the fork legs and disassemble. The spring tension is usually enough to keep the cartridge or damping rod (depending on the internals) from spinning when trying to loosen the bottom bolt. If you need more spring tension, you can set the fork cap on a rag on the floor and compress the fork a bit while you loosen/tighten the bottom bolt (if your fork has a preload adjuster, the same can be achieved by adding preload to put tension on the cartridge/damping rod). The same goes for assembly of the fork leg. Dry fit everything with the fork cap left finger tight. Install bottom bolt and torque to spec. Then take the cap/spring/spacer out of the top again and fill/burp/set oil height.

No.

@@cillion5 how many teeth?

Yes. Don't need rivet link. Clip link strong enough for engine size.

@@cillion5 cool thank you.

Do you have the correct weight springs? They may not be stuff enough.

I ordered the kit with springs adjusted to my weight. I get 40mm of sag with no preload. But even standing next to the bike (as you do with the R3), I don't have this slow rise of the front when the rebound is fully closed.

I'm guessing the Misano kits are similar to the Andreani ones in how they operate. The adjustment range has to be set before the forks are put back together. You'd have to ask your installer to check that. Compression doesn't work either?

The kit I used don't have bump stops in them at all so it's a bad idea for them to bottom out or top out as it's a hard stop. That's why they say 'race use only'.😀

Adjustment range is 4 turn for both legs, as specified by Andreani. Compression works well, I can feel the changes by turning the adjuster. On rebound I can get a good setup with no oscillations (1 turn from closed) when pressing the front of the bike, but fully closing it doesn't get me a really slow movement.

I'm guessing, but about 30-35k. I had already replaced the chain once as factory one stretched fairly quickly. Got about 15 from factory chain and 20 from replacement.

Yes it's an Ohlins unit.

The spring has to be compressed so the lock nut can be tightened. Without the proper tools it's not easy.

🤔 when the fork cap was originally removed, the spring was not putting any pressure on the cap. When we put it back together, with the new spring, there was likewise no pressure on the new cap to install. Did we miss some step?

Supplement, my mechanic grabbed the shaft through the spring coils, with a little down pressure using needle nose vice grips and that eliminated any need for strong pressing.

Are you talking about the standard forks or have you installed forks like these?

Same type forks and same brand cartridges for a SV650. Installation procedure was the same. let me say, Iam not a fork expert, I am relating what my mechanic did. The fork was clamped vertically in a vice. He gently pressed the fork spring down while keeping the threaded tube pulled out, then needle nose vice grip went through the spring and gently clamped the rod stopping the rod from falling down into the fork.. From this point he easily threaded the cap onto the rod, released the vice grips and screwed on the top. No strong arm effort required.

And changing oil weights make a noticeable difference too.

I think I had about 55000km on the bike when I changed these. I've changed chains about every 20-25000km.

Yes indeed the stock caliper will work fine. But since I have done the upgrade I can say that this caliper provides stronger braking.

@@cillion5 why are you not using steel braided brake line... Sorry for my bed English 😅😅😅

@@blackbiker3718 The bike has ABS. So from the caliper it has a soft line then it is a hard line under the fuel tank then it goes into another soft line then another hard line to the ABS module.

Hi , You have upgraded your 2piston caliper to 4piston caliper,Are you facing any issue in your ABS ?

They're still going strong. Just replaced the fork slide bushes as the bike has done 83000km. As I've put on a few kg myself I've upped the fork oil weight. 7.5 in rebound and 10 in compression. Works good for me.