I think more people are repairing old vehicles now more than ever because of the price and availability of new and used cars so from my shop to yours thank you!!
Rob thanks so much for the simplified way to install new upper bushings with spindles! I have an unorthodox front suspension on my 1949 Plymouth business coupe hot rod , it has a 1975 to 1980 AMC Pacer front suspension similar to a Mustang II , but not! The bushings and ball joints are very expensive to replace! It was almost less expensive to replace the front clip with a Mustang unit but I didn’t want to go through all the work. I was finally able to purchase replacement bushings and ball joints kit for a reasonable $400.00 dollars so I grabbed it. Used to be able to buy these kits for dirt cheap, but no longer especially since AMC went out of business, and the spare parts were all bought up buy specific rare automobile parts dealers ! I’m retired now from being in the automotive restoration business it took me two years of research to find out that this was a suspension clip from an AMC Pacer!? Never had heard of this being an option! Was always Mustang II s ! Thought you and the folks that follow you might like to know that ! Thanks for the info ! Regards Mike S ……….
I install the arm on the chassis, then I tighten both nuts equally and move arm up and down so it's not to tight and it moves with ease, then I install ballpoint on spindle.
Sure thing, just place a small amount of grease to help them slide in. They are pretty robust so you can use a screwdriver or pliers to coax them in. As long as you don't get too aggressive you won't damage them.
great video thanks for sharing, I have a question, do you know by any chance on GM cars trucks to be specific, if they can fit other cars, like my old van 2000 dodge ram 3500 van extended cab, i've lift it 3'' and now the upper control arms are too short, i have no travel what so ever, I need to modify the existing ones or buy some that can fit, if you just happen to know any info, please give us an advice, thanks again
I would look up some shops that specialize in lifting trucks and see if they have aftermarket control arms that will work. You could also look up some truck forums and search the question there.
I took a 2x3 box tubing and cut a notch out of it. Cut a 3/8" rubber hose the long way to protect the paint. I put the box tubing in the vise jaws and rested the other section of the tubing on the vise jaw. Mine were 1977 Pacer arms. Took much more than force than yours. Lol.
I'm sorry it's a 67 Chevelle I'm trying to remove the upper right arms and I have the nuts off on the motor side Was wondering about the bolts on the other side of the a-arm on the tire side
This will be my first attempt at pulling out and servicing control arms. I have a 1993 dodge ram B250 conversion van. Only 193,000mi on it. Just starting to barely see some rust spots on the body. Because it's spent it's whole life here in Orange and L.A. County, CA near the beach. Front undercarriage and control arms have (some minor, for an undercarriage rust. Not sure if their the originals). The muffler and exhaust pipes haven't even been replaced in about 15 years, also. Do I need new control Arms? New bushings, sanding, and gloss black rust olem should have them looking as good as new. Should I primer them with anti rust stuff before painting with rust olem?
You do not need new control arms if there is only minor rust. You can sand the rusty areas lightly and then use Rustoleum. 2 or 3 light coats should do fine. If you want them looking like new, then remove all the rust, sand all painted surfaces to scuff them up, then prime, then paint with 2 or 3 coats of Rustoleum. Not sure how awesome you want them to look. BTW if the bolts are rusted and won't come out you may need to sawzall them off. You are in California, so this may not be a problem for you. I had to cut mine off. Good Luck.
@@robthefixitguy7185Wow. Thanx for the quick response. Thanks for the videos & tips! Also, seems all the repair videos say go with Moog ball joints and rods? They tend to say more expensive moog because cheap moog is lousy.
@@CaliforniaBushman Yeah Moog is very good but buy first line. Depending on the vehicle they may be US made or at least they will be well made if offshore sourced.
How would you remove the upper control arm cross shaft? Cannot find any info on the net and doing your steps in reverse wouldn't be possible as you cannot hammer the bushing out, only in.
Hi Michael, I used a ball joint press kit. Remove the shaft then use the "C" clamp from the kit with a socket slightly smaller than the bushing on the inside to push it out of the control arm. On the outside of the ball joint you will place a socket that is slightly larger than the bushing. When the clamp squeezes, the bushing is the only part that can move to release the pressure. To assist the process you can use a punch to hammer the bushing from the sides. This will crush the sides of the bushing in, effectively making the diameter smaller, and therefore making it easier to remove. Couple tips: use lots of PB blaster a couple days before to loosen the bushing, if your shaft is full of rust, clean it up, otherwise is will be really difficult to slide out. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
@@robthefixitguy7185 very much appreciate your reply! I'm aware of how to remove the bushings and ball joints. The cross shaft is the problem. I cannot find anywhere on CZcams where someone took it out, without torching the bushing or using a commercial press or something crazy.
@@misterctoon11 Ok, got it. The problem is the shaft gets stuck because of rust and grime. Sand the shaft down and clean it as best you can. Then use PB blaster to soak it and heat it a bit to help it soak in. I then placed a nut on the end of the shaft and hammered on the nut to knock it loose. You don't want to damage the cross shaft. I remember it being tough to get out but I didn't use a press. Another method is to use an air chisel to remove the bushing which will remove it from the cross shaft at the same time.
Hi, couple things to check. 1. Do you have the correct bushings. 2. Did you push the first bushing too far in. There is an edge on the collar, do not push it past the edge. Also, if you already did one side and are having trouble with the other side, check the first one and see what looks different.
You need a ball joint removal tool and a socket slightly smaller than the bushing. The kit will have a large diameter socket that covers the bushing on one side. Similar to install, but opposite. You push the smaller than bushing socket through the mount, which pushes the bushing through and into the large socket on the other side. The most important part is placing some wood or steel in between the ears that holds the bushing. I would recommend using some PB blaster and heat to make them easier to remove. If you have never removed bushings before, you could damage the control arm. I would practice on something else first.
@@robthefixitguy7185 I deflected (bent ) the frame/body of my lower control arm using a ball joint press (- hand held bolt drive). S10 lower arm instlling moog bushings. A hydraulic press with GM races is more appropriate. The press' are pretty cheap @ HF
Jesus christ man... I started to loose my mind lol. Just picked up my 1st Gbody 84 monte carlo, had my control arms reinforced, went to install my bushings and have been freaking out because they didn't seat completely down to the bushing lips. ( as I thought they should) I wasn't aware that they're supposed to stop at the last bump and not push/pressed in until they hit the lip of the bushing. 🤦🏾 lol. I was starting to think I was sent the wrong size bushings.
there are many people trying to teach others, they do not even know how to hold the tools in there hands, nor know how to use them, i'll subscribe you no problem, hope you'll be a millioner loll, next time hold the hammer pass the middle handle towards the back, for more balnace ,cheers loll
Thanks for your advice, but I was trying to use less leverage when installing the bushing. There is a lip that needs to seat, if you hammer it too hard the lip will get pushed into the control arm too far. Your advice might work if you are hammering a nail, not the same thing here.
You are definitely supposed to press that bushing all the way in... Why would you tell people that?? It don't just go to that lip and stop, that's where the press starts when you press the Bushing in... PRESS THEM IN ALL THE WAY.. NOT TAP THEM WITH A HAMMER!!!
Sorry, you are wrong. When I removed the originals they were pressed to that point. Also when I reinstalled them they fit correctly. If I did what you suggested they would be too narrow.
I think more people are repairing old vehicles now more than ever because of the price and availability of new and used cars so from my shop to yours thank you!!
Rob thanks so much for the simplified way to install new upper bushings with spindles! I have an unorthodox front suspension on my 1949 Plymouth business coupe hot rod , it has a 1975 to 1980 AMC Pacer front suspension similar to a Mustang II , but not! The bushings and ball joints are very expensive to replace! It was almost less expensive to replace the front clip with a Mustang unit but I didn’t want to go through all the work. I was finally able to purchase replacement bushings and ball joints kit for a reasonable $400.00 dollars so I grabbed it. Used to be able to buy these kits for dirt cheap, but no longer especially since AMC went out of business, and the spare parts were all bought up buy specific rare automobile parts dealers ! I’m retired now from being in the automotive restoration business it took me two years of research to find out that this was a suspension clip from an AMC Pacer!? Never had heard of this being an option! Was always Mustang II s ! Thought you and the folks that follow you might like to know that ! Thanks for the info ! Regards Mike S ……….
Excellent, exactly what I was looking for. Good tip about waiting until on the ground too.
Thanks for your comment. Glad it helped.
Thank you sir for this video. I was searching all over how to replace those bushings on my Mazda Van. Thanks again
@ Rob The Fix It Guy three years later,still helping. didnt want to buy new tubular arms
Yet..this helped refersh my factory ones..thanks
Thanks man you just saved me a couple hundred bucks.
Very Helpful!
Thanks for sharing. The video really helped.
Thanks for the feedback, glad it helped.
Great video!!!
Thanks for the tips
I install the arm on the chassis, then I tighten both nuts equally and move arm up and down so it's not to tight and it moves with ease, then I install ballpoint on spindle.
Gracias amigo God Bless you.
You are welcome my friend.
excellent video
Thanks.
Thank you for the video! Question... Any pointers for installing new bump stops for the same (upper) arms?
Sure thing, just place a small amount of grease to help them slide in. They are pretty robust so you can use a screwdriver or pliers to coax them in. As long as you don't get too aggressive you won't damage them.
Which tools did you use for removal?
Nice video but would have liked to see how you get the old ones out
Mark Huffman you can use a ball joint press
great video thanks for sharing, I have a question, do you know by any chance on GM cars trucks to be specific, if they can fit other cars, like my old van 2000 dodge ram 3500 van extended cab, i've lift it 3'' and now the upper control arms are too short, i have no travel what so ever, I need to modify the existing ones or buy some that can fit, if you just happen to know any info, please give us an advice, thanks again
I would look up some shops that specialize in lifting trucks and see if they have aftermarket control arms that will work. You could also look up some truck forums and search the question there.
@@robthefixitguy7185 EXCELLENT thanks so much
I took a 2x3 box tubing and cut a notch out of it. Cut a 3/8" rubber hose the long way to protect the paint. I put the box tubing in the vise jaws and rested the other section of the tubing on the vise jaw. Mine were 1977 Pacer arms. Took much more than force than yours. Lol.
Thanks for tip ... there no specific torque info for both side nuts ? Just let it seat on weight n tight the nuts ?
Hi Vincente, just looked it up. The upper control arm bushing should be torqued to 45 ft lbs. The pivot shaft to frame should be torqued to 85 ft lbs.
I'm sorry it's a 67 Chevelle I'm trying to remove the upper right arms and I have the nuts off on the motor side
Was wondering about the bolts on the other side of the a-arm on the tire side
This will be my first attempt at pulling out and servicing control arms. I have a 1993 dodge ram B250 conversion van. Only 193,000mi on it. Just starting to barely see some rust spots on the body. Because it's spent it's whole life here in Orange and L.A. County, CA near the beach. Front undercarriage and control arms have (some minor, for an undercarriage rust. Not sure if their the originals). The muffler and exhaust pipes haven't even been replaced in about 15 years, also. Do I need new control Arms?
New bushings, sanding, and gloss black rust olem should have them looking as good as new.
Should I primer them with anti rust stuff before painting with rust olem?
You do not need new control arms if there is only minor rust. You can sand the rusty areas lightly and then use Rustoleum. 2 or 3 light coats should do fine. If you want them looking like new, then remove all the rust, sand all painted surfaces to scuff them up, then prime, then paint with 2 or 3 coats of Rustoleum. Not sure how awesome you want them to look. BTW if the bolts are rusted and won't come out you may need to sawzall them off. You are in California, so this may not be a problem for you. I had to cut mine off. Good Luck.
@@robthefixitguy7185Wow. Thanx for the quick response. Thanks for the videos & tips! Also, seems all the repair videos say go with Moog ball joints and rods? They tend to say more expensive moog because cheap moog is lousy.
@@CaliforniaBushman Yeah Moog is very good but buy first line. Depending on the vehicle they may be US made or at least they will be well made if offshore sourced.
Rob do you know if the upper a arm bolts are welded to the frame on the tire size? Thank you
They are not welded, they are similar to a wheel stud that locks them in
How would you remove the upper control arm cross shaft? Cannot find any info on the net and doing your steps in reverse wouldn't be possible as you cannot hammer the bushing out, only in.
Hi Michael, I used a ball joint press kit. Remove the shaft then use the "C" clamp from the kit with a socket slightly smaller than the bushing on the inside to push it out of the control arm. On the outside of the ball joint you will place a socket that is slightly larger than the bushing. When the clamp squeezes, the bushing is the only part that can move to release the pressure. To assist the process you can use a punch to hammer the bushing from the sides. This will crush the sides of the bushing in, effectively making the diameter smaller, and therefore making it easier to remove. Couple tips: use lots of PB blaster a couple days before to loosen the bushing, if your shaft is full of rust, clean it up, otherwise is will be really difficult to slide out. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
@@robthefixitguy7185 very much appreciate your reply! I'm aware of how to remove the bushings and ball joints. The cross shaft is the problem. I cannot find anywhere on CZcams where someone took it out, without torching the bushing or using a commercial press or something crazy.
@@misterctoon11 Ok, got it. The problem is the shaft gets stuck because of rust and grime. Sand the shaft down and clean it as best you can. Then use PB blaster to soak it and heat it a bit to help it soak in. I then placed a nut on the end of the shaft and hammered on the nut to knock it loose. You don't want to damage the cross shaft. I remember it being tough to get out but I didn't use a press. Another method is to use an air chisel to remove the bushing which will remove it from the cross shaft at the same time.
My last bushing doesnt go all the way in . it hits the end of shaft before going all the way in . ?????
Hi, couple things to check. 1. Do you have the correct bushings. 2. Did you push the first bushing too far in. There is an edge on the collar, do not push it past the edge. Also, if you already did one side and are having trouble with the other side, check the first one and see what looks different.
Rob I have a question about if u got time hit me back up please
👍
How did you get the old ones off?
You need a ball joint removal tool and a socket slightly smaller than the bushing. The kit will have a large diameter socket that covers the bushing on one side. Similar to install, but opposite. You push the smaller than bushing socket through the mount, which pushes the bushing through and into the large socket on the other side. The most important part is placing some wood or steel in between the ears that holds the bushing. I would recommend using some PB blaster and heat to make them easier to remove. If you have never removed bushings before, you could damage the control arm. I would practice on something else first.
@@robthefixitguy7185 I deflected (bent ) the frame/body of my lower control arm using a ball joint press (- hand held bolt drive). S10 lower arm instlling moog bushings. A hydraulic press with GM races is more appropriate. The press' are pretty cheap @ HF
Jesus christ man... I started to loose my mind lol. Just picked up my 1st Gbody 84 monte carlo, had my control arms reinforced, went to install my bushings and have been freaking out because they didn't seat completely down to the bushing lips. ( as I thought they should) I wasn't aware that they're supposed to stop at the last bump and not push/pressed in until they hit the lip of the bushing. 🤦🏾 lol. I was starting to think I was sent the wrong size bushings.
Use hydraulic presser is more easier than cutting and burning out the bushings.
This is the same concept as an A-Body right?
It has the same set up just different sizes
Thanks for letting us know. Those who have a bodies will appreciate the info.
there are many people trying to teach others, they do not even know how to hold the tools in there hands, nor know how to use them, i'll subscribe you no problem, hope you'll be a millioner loll, next time hold the hammer pass the middle handle towards the back, for more balnace ,cheers loll
Thanks for your advice, but I was trying to use less leverage when installing the bushing. There is a lip that needs to seat, if you hammer it too hard the lip will get pushed into the control arm too far. Your advice might work if you are hammering a nail, not the same thing here.
I need someone to do my control arms
Hi Rashad, any old school mechanic can do it. Younger ones have probably never done it before.
with a cold bushing is more simple, put the bushings in the fridge for an hour...
Hi David, great suggestion. In this case, they went in fairly easy, but fridge or freezing is also an option.
You are definitely supposed to press that bushing all the way in... Why would you tell people that??
It don't just go to that lip and stop, that's where the press starts when you press the Bushing in... PRESS THEM IN ALL THE WAY.. NOT TAP THEM WITH A HAMMER!!!
Sorry, you are wrong. When I removed the originals they were pressed to that point. Also when I reinstalled them they fit correctly. If I did what you suggested they would be too narrow.