Video

Holy shit so many of us are a mixture of super capable and dumb all rolled into one 😂 just happened with me 💀

Thank you

Thank you sir !

Excellent video

If you have a spline with a circlip involved the trick is to get the circlip opening in the 12 o'clock position. What I have found is turning an 1/8 of a turn at a time and giving a tug or pry and usually it releses fairly easy. Kudos on your custom tool invention - nice problem solving skills!

Which tools did you use for removal?

What a cavernous cranium. You shouldn’t touch a car again.

My buddy said I would need the right tools, but he didn't mention this. Fortunately, I have all the parts to make this. The axels are on the way. Thank you!

what a dumb video

그거 만드는게 더 힘들겠다...임마

Rob.... Amazing... thank you for this.... I've been off the road for over 2 weeks... Exactly the same issue as you said... Calipers on the wrong side😊... Just a shame I replaced EVERYTHING before I got to see your video...

Very clever. Nice set up.

You will need to hit a lot harder then that

Too much buy the tool

Dude, really how did you get so dirty?

This did nothing for me

I had another mechanic do the exact same thing. He bled his brakes for weeks! Shaking his head, he was flabbergasted when I pointed out that he had the front 2 calipers reversed the whole time 😮 5 minutes later, he calls me a saint. 😂

Or instead of using a socket so the control arm ears don’t collapse, cut a piece of angle iron or pipe that’s cut in 1/2.

I do greatly appreciate your time for this video 😊 Thanks for it !

This is the same concept as an A-Body right?

Great idea, great solution. I am one of those who saves wood ends, such as from 2x4s, because they can come in handy, especially for car repairs, where a couple of good whacks are needed to drive in or out pieces that would otherwise be damaged with direct hammer blows. You are also correct, that one CV axle is bound to be more difficult to access for removal.

W0W!!!! I just did the same mistake!!! Thanks to your video!!! I just took a look at my brake job and the bleeder screw was on bottom, I will be taking them apart again to correct and bleed the air out!!! You've help so many people on here with all the comments!!! Awesome!!! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!!!

Man, what a valuable information you just told! In many videos i've watched, none even mentioned it. Great job! Thanks a lot!

I like this idea because even if you can get a prybar in between axle and diff- you risk cracking / marring the differential while trying to lever the axle out. Your little tool means you're only hammering out the part you want to replace anyway. Next stop- Home Depot :) thanks for posting this.

Is that electrical box 4" or 6" ?

That was so helpful i just did a big upgrade on my e30's break setup but it is my first time doing breaks so i did exactly that the bleeding nipel i positioned down so the calipers are flipped thank you for this video it is a simple mistake what can sabotage the complete mission!

Jesus christ man... I started to loose my mind lol. Just picked up my 1st Gbody 84 monte carlo, had my control arms reinforced, went to install my bushings and have been freaking out because they didn't seat completely down to the bushing lips. ( as I thought they should) I wasn't aware that they're supposed to stop at the last bump and not push/pressed in until they hit the lip of the bushing. 🤦🏾 lol. I was starting to think I was sent the wrong size bushings.

I wonder, is there any significant difference between the left and right sides

This worked! Except the electrical outlet method did not. I think it would have except I cut it too wide and it didn't grab well and just slipped off. The bars and wood block were still good though so I just made another version. I found a piece of sheet metal cut to about 4"x10" and drilled a 1.25" hole in the center (slightly larger though) with a hole saw. then I cut a piece of wood 3.5" wide to use as a bending form and bent it around that for a nice sharp 90° bend. I used tin snips to cut from one side to the edges of the hole I drilled to make a slot. I drilled a single 1/4-20 hole in each ear so it can move around but hold plenty strong. Being thin it slid into the gap very easily (the electrical box was a little bit too thick). I didn't bother with the second block of wood and just banged on the one piece. What's the worst that can happen? break the wood? Just cut another piece. But I didn't and it came out with just a few bangs. The other problem with using an electrical box is all the cutout holes that make it weak. The thin sheet metal was fine because it sort of nestled around the axle and it didn't matter that it bent because it held in the places that need holding.

This will not work on a dodge caravan.

Price update: Electrical box 7.98 36x3/4x1/8 11.93 x 2 = $34.47 with tax. The rest I have in the garage.Just for grins I went to an inflation calculator and it works the other way around and it gave me 17.87 back in 1997. That's still nearly double your claim. There are cheaper boxes but not the type that would work well for this job. Most of the boxes are plastic nowadays. And a simple steel bar for nearly $12! wtf I think they are just gouging us. What doesn't make sense is how usually the raw materials things tend to be more expensive than the manufactured parts. I can think of a lot of things for $12 that require work and materials to produce that would seem to be more expensive. A burger King whopper meal is about that much and that requires all sorts of handling and preparation. A steel bar does not.

Do you have any idea why I was able to have brake pressure this week with apparently backwards calipers, but when I repaired a wheel bearing and disconnected one of the calipers I started experiencing the symptoms you described?

OMG trash

You didn’t have trouble seating the cv axle spline c clip into the transmission?

I got done with my wifes car and I was in a hurry and did that mistake and I was lost " why it doesn't bleed " and thanks to your video that it showed me my mistake thanks very much. Wow I just did a rooky mistake. 😅

Thank you very much, you resolved my problem.

Great job showing and telling,about how you made that to take the shaft out. I am fixing to do my 2008 dodge 4x4 and so thanks for showing and telling. So wish me luck and well see ya next time see ya bye.

That is just friggin idiotic. that is what there are manuals for or the inter net thingy or maybe a camera on your phone or just a small bit of intelligence.

Rob thanks so much for the simplified way to install new upper bushings with spindles! I have an unorthodox front suspension on my 1949 Plymouth business coupe hot rod , it has a 1975 to 1980 AMC Pacer front suspension similar to a Mustang II , but not! The bushings and ball joints are very expensive to replace! It was almost less expensive to replace the front clip with a Mustang unit but I didn’t want to go through all the work. I was finally able to purchase replacement bushings and ball joints kit for a reasonable $400.00 dollars so I grabbed it. Used to be able to buy these kits for dirt cheap, but no longer especially since AMC went out of business, and the spare parts were all bought up buy specific rare automobile parts dealers ! I’m retired now from being in the automotive restoration business it took me two years of research to find out that this was a suspension clip from an AMC Pacer!? Never had heard of this being an option! Was always Mustang II s ! Thought you and the folks that follow you might like to know that ! Thanks for the info ! Regards Mike S ……….

Very good video ,and you a good person to say !, you didn't know learn om your mistakes big A+ to you

FiTech "master kit" is a rip off. They only give you 5.5' of high pressure fuel line. If you want to mount the Force Fuel in the trunk and only have 1 line to the engine you have to buy hose from someone else. It should be included. Why pay $1700 and then have to buy additional supplies to make it work?

Clever

Under $10 Unless you don't own a drill or saw😢

Your tool works awesome. I used to large of a light box at first. However very easy to switch with a smaller size, for a car you could maybe use a 3" bracket, straiten the 90 degree bend and put the bolt through the pre made hole. Thank you again, it is an amazing DYI tool.

I have the same job to do. Watched your video about YOUR tool, awesome, it's a must watch. It will make this job easy, unbelievable. KISS: Keep it simple stupid, a wonderful simple tool, easy and inexpensive to make. Total props, and hats off Sir.

Thank you, Amazing DIY hack, this is going to save me so much time, and money. Hats off sir.

GOOD JOB I AM MAKING ONE HAD TOO MANY TIMES TAKING OUT AXLES THAT WERE A NIGHTMARE

It doesn't fit 😂😂

Thank you you're the videos awesome like savor

I could not get the electrical box behind the cv joint against my Kubota RTV X900 so I combined your bar stock and block idea I used. I welded it to a 3” muffler clamp like another CZcamsr suggested, two taps and it popped right out.