Using Adhesive Foam To Attach Insulated Plasterboard
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 25. 06. 2024
- First project in the bedroom is to insulate the outer wall of the house with insulated plasterboard attached with insta-stik foam. There are a lot of differing opinions on the best way to go about this project, with adhesive foam being a newer option that I thought I'd try out in this video, with what I think was great success and certainly quicker, easier and less mess than dot and dab plasterboard adhesive.
0:00 Intro
0:17 Prep work
2:45 Solid vs Cavity Walls
3:54 Internal vs External insulation
5:26 Options for Internal Insulation
7:01 Building Regs & U-value
8:12 Options for Attaching Insulated Plasterboard
8:42 Attaching with Insta-Stik Foam
11:26 Mechanical fixings
11:56 Window Reveals
12:30 Finishing Touches
13:04 Outro
đđšđšđ„đŹ
Foam gun (I like this one over the Screwfix version) amzn.to/2KzPe52
Multi-cutter bit.ly/3qzCR8q but I'd recommend cordless:
amzn.to/392QMxX
Drill
Putty/plaster knife for spreading acoustic sealant
đđđđđ«đąđđ„đŹ
Insulated plasterboard I used bit.ly/2NlOPUL
Insta-stik adhesive foam bit.ly/2N95Pxh
Hammer in fixings bit.ly/2Y170kt but I'd recommend:
bit.ly/38Yyj5j
Acoustic sealant amzn.to/35Xe4TT
đMy website - www.alidymock.com
đžInstagram - / alidymock
đ Email - hello@alidymock.com - Jak na to + styl
0:00 Intro
0:17 Prep work
2:45 Solid vs Cavity Walls
3:54 Internal vs External insulation
5:26 Options for Internal Insulation
7:01 Building Regs & U-value
8:12 Options for Attaching Insulated Plasterboard
8:42 Attaching with Insta-Stik Foam
11:26 Mechanical fixings
11:56 Window Reveals
12:30 Finishing Touches
13:04 Outro
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I've been using instastik for around 12 years, some tips would be to spray the board and wall with water prior to applying the foam, you get greater adhesion, apply foam between the edges of the boards to stop cold bridging. Also a more cost effective way is to use kingspan or similar board, then stick the plaster board to the kingspan. I've gone up-to 100mm kingspan with 15mm megadeco plaster boards. Bathroom walls have a load of around 100kg per 8x4 area that I have done. The key is a light waterspray for bonding and on old walls I use sbr bond on the walls. One last tip would be when sticking the plaster boards is when you butt them up together just twist a plasterboard screw between the sheets every 300-400mm the small amount of hold stops the sheet your sticking from expanding past the previous one and keeps them flush.
I love insta stick it sticks almost anything and goes off quickly it's great for giving skirting etc. We insulated loads of houses for housing associations with 100mm insulation backed plasterboard and fixed it using insta stick with a couple of concrete screws to hold it tight against the existing plaster it was a really good earner. Your meant to return it around the corner something like a minimum of 150mm though it do performs quite well without that. Nice tip advising people to put some foam in the edges btw. đđ
Good stuff Kevin. How well does Insta Stik stick to foil would you say?
I wouldn't want to be the guy who has to pull off the skirting down the line! It's amazing how strong it is!
@@AliDymock very well, I have over 100kg per 8x4 board all stuck on the foil. The key is a light waterspray to increase the bond. Using kingspan, you get a better U value, less wastage and it's cheaper than a bonded insulation/ plaster board.
Hi
I have a plan to buy 20mm pir board two side silver foil (ÂŁ20/each) and 9.5mm plasterboard (ÂŁ10/each) then I have a plan to stick them together. Then cost is a half price (ÂŁ60-65 shop price )
This diy plasterboard I have plan to stick from inside to empty cavity wall ( build in1965 )
Whatâs your advice, itâs good idea??
Thanks
Love the upgrade to flip flops when you might step on a gripper rod or staple đ€Ł
đ I should probably set a better example...
Been using it for over 10 yrs.brilliant stuff
Glad to have found more from you after following your Garden Workshop Series!
Great blend of instruction and rationale.
Amazing. Two videos that will be of great interest as in the coming months as i have both these jobs to do. đđ»
Great stuff John!
I seem to be following behind your life experiences in some regards, I used your videos to build my garden room 2 years ago, and when I just searched for 'sticking insulated plasterboard', up you popped with the goods! đ
Much appreciated, your videos are always well presented, informative and very very helpful.
I'm looking at doing exactly this once I move into my new place and in all my research hadn't seen the foam as an option. Always helpful to see well presented alternatives, thanks!
Snap, but Iâd heard it worked and given the paper backing it should be no different to regular foam attached plasterboard. Weâll see though. Iâll update as the room progresses!
Silka plasterboard foam might be an option too, its amazing stuff and the nozzle is really good, ive had left over stuff and used it 2months later no problem, i have a form gun but after lots of use its pretty gunked up now, tried cleaning it but i think its too far gone, so the silka nozzle was a nice surprise.
A great, detailed and informative video. Thanks for posting!
Good video. Precise and to the point.
Nice tutorial and analysis. I had damp issues in my Victorian house in the alcoves so built a stud wall with 50mm gap from the wall then celotex insulation and plasterboard. I also vented behind the stud wall with holes in the suspended floor and going up through the ceiling and the same above. I found that I didn't need a plasterer by carefully filling all gaps with caulk then polyfiller to level, cross lining with lining paper and using a top layer of textured paper. If the costs of heating keep going up, I may sacrifice more interior space with another layer of insulated plasterboard!
Great video mate. Very informative and great editing. Well done
You're a braver man than I removing that rad!! Great work
Amazing work and thanks so much for sharing your knowledge
Very well explained. Thank you đ
Great job. Thank you for the time and effort you took to make this video and share it with us. Greetings from Croatia.
Croatia is lovely, you lucky chap. Glad the vid helped.
Interesting video, very good how you give a run down of all the options and your reasoning.
I live in a 1930's semi with solid brick walls, a few years ago I internally insulated all the of external walls with battens and 50mm of PIR insulation between in much the same way the walls in your garden room are constructed, and it has made a marked difference in the comfort level of our house as well as the heating costs, which are now significantly lower. It was however, a huge amount of work, especially as we hacked off all of the original lime plaster (it was loose it places anyway) to maximise room space.
Keep up the good work!
Sounds like a very solid job. This was a lazy way of doing it and a bit of a test but itâs worked well for now, weâll see how it fairs before I do the next room đ
Excellent Ali. Really informative
Nicely explained, really competent analysis of interstitial condensation and well described. So many other diy dot and dabbers getting this wrong. Congratulations. (Ex architect and lecturer in construction technology)
great video and well detailed , thanks
Your videos are so good! Full of such good information. Well done đđ
Thanks Simon, glad you like!
Great video . I did a whole house like youâve done here during a refurb. Insta-stik is incredibly strong. You can literally stick almost anything to anything and itâs not coming apart. Itâs much quicker and cleaner than board adhesive dot and dab. You can get 2-3 boards from a can so itâs just slightly better value as well. It locks the wall boards to the ceilings, as the Victorian properties have mostly settled out of square and the inevitable gaps can be fully filled and locked together for the plasterer to tape over. No movement cracks later. But you need to bear in mind that the foam will continue to push a bit for quite a few minutes after itâs stuck the board, so care needs to be taken not to get a step against the adjacent board. It looks and smells like low expansion foam but itâs unbelievably strong once itâs cured. It can be tempting to use it where you shouldnât really. Itâs excellent on skirtings and architraves as well. No drilling and filling. Much much better than no-nails.
Yeh it is amazing stuff and it's interesting how the comments have differed vs dot and dab though that is often the case when a newer way of doing things comes about. I think it would be great on skirting but I wouldn't want to be the guy who has to pull the skirting off down the line.
@@AliDymock Iâm looking at using your video as a proof of concept to do a couple of walls in our kitchen. Reckon once the mechanical fixings are up, that itâll be strong enough to hang kitchen cabinets off?
@@Musicman1001 someone in another comment said you'll definitely need mechanical fixings of doing this in a kitchen where cupboards are going to be hung.
Great video, about to undertake the same job in my own house
I come from a construction background, started from the architectural design field up to PM on big jobs. I do alot of DIY at home myself as i have an understanding of how it all goes together considering i would usually specify it on drawings. Im too lazy to document my work but if i did, it would be exactly like this, well done, really like the attention to detail and numbers according to the manufacturer. Subbed.
Welcome to the channel Norman! Iâve always found PMs to be very knowledgeable across a broad range of trades, big picture types but with an eye for detail. Iâm only a DIYer so Iâm learning and documenting as I go. No calamities so far đ€Łđ€
A nice video with great information. Subscribed.
Superb!
I found Knauf technical to be really helpful when I was selecting the insulated board for our renovation. They were happy to provide a u-value calc and dew point analysis via email - no fee or anything. Great service.
Shame that knaufs full range is really hard to get ahold of in the UK!
I've only ever used mechanical fixing on insulated plasterboard, after seeing a job where it had been dot and dabbed with plasterboard adhesive and the plasterboard had later become detached from the polystyrene. I've always used 6mm sds drill, red plugs, then 65mm aluminium nails (which hold in plugs better than you'd imagine.) You have to use a bit of scrim over the nail heads due to the compressibility of the insulation, otherwise the heads may pop occasionally. But I must admit, this looks like a feasible solution that would be a hell of a lot quicker. I'll give it a go next time I have some to do.
Great video well
Done đ
Pajama renovating...intriguing
I've started using this gun adhesive and I really like it. You need to be aware that the foam can slightly push out the plasterboard as it cures. Also, spray the board laying on the floor exactly as you did in the video. If you try to spray it onto the wall it just makes a big mess. You definitely need mechanical fixings if using this in a kitchen where they might be wall cabinets.
Guns are a game changer
super helpful
I'm very interested to see whether this is still performing as desired after a couple of years. This is almost exactly what I need to specify for a job I'm working on, so it would definitely be good to know whether it worked out well.
Did this to our Victorian bedroom a few months ago! I had a few added complications, namely having to replace all the double glazing and dealing with a bay window. Cutting that insulated plasterboard at a perfect angle is quite the challenge! Otherwise you did pretty much the same as me. Great work.
Sounds like it's holding up nicely. I have a half-hexagon bay window downstairs and was wondering how easy it is cut the angles. God to know it's doable, well done đ
@@AliDymock I used a digital angle finder to work out roughly the angle to cut. It doesn't help the the original walls, ceiling and floor were all wonky so I needed to use a lot more foam at the bottom to get the boards plumb. Fill any big gaps with more foam to prevent thermal bridging and slap on some bonding to make up any significant gaps.
I build a sun room 7 years ago 6m by 5m,,windows on 2 sides and 2 sky lights (velux window)
i have 300mmcavity walls , i got them pumped with insulation , and on the inside walls i put insulated plasterboard 12mm plasterboard with 35mm insulation, its very warm with one rad about 1.5 m long under a window and on on the wall about 300 mm wide and 1.5 m tall, the roof is a warm roof, worth every penny, and looks good too...
great video man
Sounds great! Is it cool in summer too?
@@AliDymock yes,lots of glass but , i put on extra long eaves, i picked it up while working in Austratia, it works there , so why noy try it here, im in the Rep of Ireland. the sunny southeast,,;-) the sky windows are on a remote and close if it rains , very handy
Great work man, I ended up going the stud wall route using CLS16 and 50mm PIR with a 12.5mm board on. This was on a late 1800's property. I put strips of DPC on every timber that was touching the wall and had an air gap between the wall and insulation (about 10-15mm on average)
I was surpised how much noise it actually cut out just by doing this let alone how warm it was.
You could also use minimal gap expansion foam between the timbers to prevent cold bridging and eventual decay.
Good video enjoyed it
Good video! Curious to know if you saw any noticeable benefits since you completed the project a year ago and been through a winter to measure the difference before and after? Thanks , Iâm thinking of doing the same .
I did a baton frame of 2x1ââ with 400mm centres with 50mm kingspan filling. Then put a visquin sheet across the whole wall to stop moisture, then plaster board.
Thanks for making this video, I've found it really useful. How many canisters of insta-stick did it require for a wall this size?
Hi Ali, good to see you are back. Nice job, neat and tidy. What software did you use to draw your plans?
You need to pull up (or cut) the floorboards at the wall to be insulated and insulate between the timbers using PIR. The cold bridge on the uninsulated bricks will cause condensation, black mould and potentially rotted floor beams. Rockwool will not help in this situation. You can cut wall the insulation board to a loose fit between the beams and use spray foam to fill the gaps all around.
The radiator upstand pipes can be replaced with Hep2O allowing a neat connection without solder. Use an inline stop valve to isolate the pipe under the floor. When the system is depressurised you can make one cut and lose virtually no water. Use a block style cutter and have the valve ready to quickly push on. Keep a wet vac handy to clean up spills but you probably wont need it.
Good point. Have you seen mould or rotten floor beams in practice after internally insulating a wall? If so, how long afterwards?
Yes
Such a useful vid, thanks Ali. Anyone see any issues with tiling over this type of system? with the extra fixings it should be plenty strong enough for a grout and tile finish in a bathroom right?
A good trick to not create a visible butt joint if you canât fit a full board in a space, instead of fully cutting in half you can score the back side and snap the plasterboard, leaving the front paper intact. Works well with normal plasterboard, maybe some sealant in the back where the cut was in this one could work
You need to use the thermostat vale stop cap. If you simply screw it to zero there's always the risk a bout of cold will open the valve.
Great vid. Really helpful!.How thick is the line of foam when installing it to the wall?. 10mm?
Good tip with emptying the rad. Just a note re cavity insulation from the 80 ( and 90 and even into the early 00s) only a lawyer of about 50 mm would likely have been added, still leaving a 50mm cavity which can still be filled to greatly improved the overall insulation. The cavity insulation would originally have been installed by the block/brick layers and could often have been poorly done as they would have been working around wall ties which caused gaps. The insulation would also have been low density polystyrene.
Great bit of info! That would be the best starting place for insulation if that is the case.
Great video Ali, I'm thinking of doing this to my downstairs bathroom external wall as they get really cold. Do you know if you can have the U value of the wall checked by a builder or building Regs at all? I believe the wall is already insulated but I was going to add another 50mm with foil/backed/foam/plasterboard wondering if that would suffice? thanks John
Great video, how does the room feel now for warmth? Any issues with the fixings?
Good video. How did you prevent moisture migrating and condensing around the wooden beams? I'm doing a similar job but I'm afraid that the wood in the walls will rot because of this excessive moisture.
Great video, just what im looking to do. Question? Isn't a dryliner track required with solid walls?
If you had removed the plaster board on the front wall would that have saved you a significant thickness? Thank you for a superb and very clear description.
Thanks for your video, I'm interested in doing this to improve my epc, do you know of it as simple as install and having an inspector round to mark up
Top boy Ali
đ€Another vid dropping shortly!
@@AliDymock Just like buses ... three in a row !! :)
Nice job you can always put a washer before hammering in the mechanical fixing
Hi i like the video however its a myth externally insulated buildings dont suffer with this problem.
Consider the scenario. Cold house, You return home on a cold day and put the heating on. You increase the temp & humidity in the home but the thermal mass of the wall is slow to respond and lags behind the room temp. The moisture enters the fabric due to higher humidity internally compared to outside and as the thermal mass mass of the wall is slow to respond Dewpoint occurs instantly on the inside of the wall. Moisture migrates through the fabric and becomes trapped behind the external insulation.. Bad bad bad bad. Only mitigation against this is a mechanical ventilation unit to combat the humidity rise.
Internally insulated walls respond quickly with the rapid temperature change and do not lag behind the internal temp. Most insulations used for this have low permeability and and moisture going beyond the insulation is minimal. Also with the external structure not wrapped in external insulation, the building will eventually permeate the moisture to atmosphere instead of being trapped. This is why timber frame buildings use an internal vcl eg polythene and external vapour control layer which allows moist to escape to atmosphere . The other way around would be a total distater.
Spent 13 yrs testing /investigating building defects, air leakage testing. Cavity filled and externally wrapped solid wall buildings are something that keeps cropping up...
Wow fantastic comment esp. with all that experience behind you. It does make sense what you say but I'd have thought that even with the heating off for the day the external insulation would keep the brick walls reasonably warm, certainly more than uninsulated walls but the point about moisture getting trapped outside of the wall but inside of the insulation makes total sense but again, will it condense?
I've been hearing about issues with cavity walls so let's say you were doing a brick/block extension, how would you build the external walls - internally insulated?
Such a super helpful video thank you! I've just done the same in our living room following some of your instructions. Just wondered though and I've already done the same as you but now I'm second guessing myself, would the capping off of the insulation with plasterboard at the window reveals be a point at which vapour could pass behind? I'm hoping I don't need to rip off the plasterboard I've fixed here! đ
Next time you remove a radiator,after screwing down the thermostatic valve fit a blank to the outlet because they have a frost stat in the valve and they can open up if it gets cold and flood the room.
Thanks Barry, did not know that!
To make a blank, rap some ptfe tape round 5p piece. Place inside a nut and screw on to valve body.
Good video, our house is a 1934 property with solid brick walls. We had a external wall where the hallway/stair is. The plaster had blown and wall was sweating as you could feel it and almost smell it. We removed all plaster back to brick and allowed the wall to breathe and dry out. After a few month we got to work but only had a depth of 35mmish to use where no suitable insulated board product would suffice. After some research we applied a tanking slurry, a render mix and floated finishing plaster on top. Wall is dry as a bone now and no longer that cold to touch wall... but videos and knowledge is needed on the subject as there is so much conflicting info!
Tanking was smart!
I love learning from your vids Ali.. Just curious as to how far a can of adhesive goes for this type of work as they aren't cheap. Can you remember how many you used for this job pal?
Great video. Thanks! Will this solution work for a loft conversion where thereâs one side wall which is party wall to next doors loft (unconverted)?
I agree with the fact that there are a lot of cowboys on the market just wanting to scavenge on government subsidies for insulating your house.
A thorough bit of research is needed and will pay off if you're going to hire someone to do the job for you.
I'm planning to have my exterior walls insulated from the outside and rendered, this is a real specialist job and I chose to go with a builder which already has 20+ years of experience with the process and offers 20 years of guarantee on his work! So worth the extra bit of money.
The other companies which were invited to make an offer trough one of these websites were you can get 5 offers didn't even reply back, so they probably considered the job as too complicated for them because of some technical details of the house.
Another advantage of the chosen builder is that he can do some structural changes on supporting walls at the same time, so it isn't necessary to have two different companies having to work in each way or at different times.
But as for the easier jobs, I agree on the fact that getting the government subsidy does not cover the added cost for labour when outsourcing, as one of the requirements is that the job must be done by a certified company, so you're still saving money when doing it yourself without getting the subsidy.
Good work, totally worth getting the best to do that kind of work.
Hi just one thing you should do is around the window , leave the slab over hang beyond the reveals ,then later trim the foam only from the back with a craft knife , cut your slab infill around the window and foam in place when all is dry cut off excess slab around window giving you a slab to slab corner , hope you can follow , important to avoid cold bridge at window reveals đ
Yep understood definitely the best way to go. The problem I had is that I didn't have room for plasterboard, insulated or otherwise over the plaster and getting the plaster off seemed really difficult (might need to get myself an SDS drill). And then I can see it all being ripped off anyway if/when the windows are replaced. Might try it on the next room though!
Well done. đ
Hi Ali.
I'm looking to do this in the next few months. Can I hide a gas pipe in the insulation,by cutting a channel out the back of a panel. Great video. đ
I've read that moisture can travel from outside inwards through the wall. Is this something you considered? I think there are special coatings that can be painted on to the exterior which will stop water getting in but allow moisture to escape. Thanks for the video :)
One problem you can get doing this is before you put insulated boards on you can see if you have water or damp coming through the walls but once you have stuck insulated plasterboards on you will never know and in those cases you can get black mould form behind the insulated plasterboard.
If your pointing outside is all good you may be fine but if itâs a single 9 inch brick wall you may get penetrating damp, if the wall has a cavity you should be fine unless the cavity is bridged anywhere, remember black mould is a living organism and you only need a small patch and soon the whole back of the boards will be covered.
How did the corners hold up to cracking where you've used the flexible sealant? I'm going to get my walls skimmed and the plasterer is recommending scrimming the corners.
Great videos you are making, so after 2 years how is it going with the walls?
Brilliant videos Ali been watching since the garden building. I am about to embark on the insulated plasterboard and will be follwing your guidance. Can I just ask what the purpose of the 15mm gap is at the bottom that you later fill with expandable ? Thanks keep up the vids
Nice! Yeh do you remember when I was attaching plasterboard in the garden room and lifted it off the floor? This is because plasterboard can crumble and deteriorate quickly if it gets wet so a spillage on the floor can seep up the plasterboard if it's flush with the floor. This why plasterboard in a bathroom isn't the best option and cement board is best. So yeh, just lift yours up 10mm or so and you'll be good then fill with foam and/or sealant and you'll be good :)
Any update on how this has worked? I thought it was best practice to take up the flooring and have the insulated board go all the way down to the top of the ceiling below, you have left a big gap under the floor board area so would be nice to know what its been like 1 year down the road... Cheers
Great video, i done this throughout the house all external walls last year using kingspan plasterboard sheets. I Would recommend soudal plasterboard adhesive, great stuff, then big twist headed helical fixings.
Great tip! And I love Soudal foam, defo worth the extra few ÂŁs over the No Nonsense stuff. I didn't know they did a plasterboard adhesive type foam though. Good shout on the fixings, my one regret on this.
Hello, Great video. Is it not necessary to bring it back to brick when doing this job? Iâm going to undertake this in my sons room
Hi,just wondering how your getting on with the insulated plasterboard,if youâve had any issues and if it made a difference with keeping your house warm?
Could you stick on acoustic boards using the foam and would it work to deaden the sound more than drywall adhesive or fixings? Possibly 2 layers of acoustic plasterboard?
Hi Ali, thanks for a great video. Can I ask, if you are getting a new EPC certificate for this house, do they check if it's done by a certified installer or do they accept DIY jobs and presume it's installed as per product manual? Thanks
No they don't check any certificates, just ask what has been done.
Great video and finish is brilliant, been researching so much myself and this is best Iâve found! Just a quick question maybe a bit of advice my brick walls have brick vents would it be best to keep these open as they are to still have a natural air ventilation? Thank you
Yes, always!
I agree with pumpkinhead, worth keeping them open, just make sure you seal the plasterboard as much as possible to stop heat being lost by convection (drafts)
Its amazingly sticky but expands and my experience is that it is a powerful expansion..and can create all sorts of bends.
That's interesting, i didn't get that kind of effect, it didn't really seem to expand much at all, nowhere near like expanding foam anyway.
@@AliDymock I fixed a door frame to a stone wall with expanding foam and saw later it had bent the vertical sides inwards. By way of a blokey aside we came across the "two part mix" for making expanding foam and so filled a hard plastic barrel, screwed down the top and 2 minutes later nearly got blasted off the earth by a fantastic explosion! Covered in it.. hair clothes the lot! Amazing!!
No it doesn't. There is minimal expansion on ADHESIVE foam. Do not confuse with Expanding foam.
@@deanoh6414 an important detail that should be emphasised. Some insulation is expanded polystyrene and I have a feeling that expanding adhesive-foam might disolve it.
@@andyharpist2938 Again nope. Because you don't apply to the polystyrene layer. Its sandwiched .
Good job. Any thermal bridging since installation? They say don't stick stuff to external walls..!?
Could you tell me what about damp moisture membrane / you did closed air pockets via using foam as square on plasterboard I think personally you should put foam horizontal to plasterboard however due to high moisture density in air after few years it could create damp in between plasterboard and wall. I have done this using silka mulitpor is not cheap however no possible to create damp as you actually extended natural wall breathing
Hi, great video and thanks for sharing this information, very helpful, I'm about to start doing the same to my house, the wall is solid stone built, I took off the old black ash plaster as it was loose and left with just stone, I was was going clean up as much dust, a thin layer of PVA and then dot and dab or foam now after this video, would you think this would work? Cheers
Sounds like you've done the hard work. Yeh I definitely think this will work. Either spray the walls with water first and then spray or if it's very dusty/dry then pva might be a good idea. This was a bit of an experiment as I'd only seen it used on plasterboard (no insulation) before but given the paper baking of the insulated plasterboard I used, I thought it would work and it's a lot less hassle than dot and dab.
Curious that you described Phelonic Core as better insulator than PIR.
I had a look and the thermal conductivity seem almost exactly the same.
Curious what is really the difference.
Do you have a video of adding insulated board to a bay window? Mine has ancient expanded poly tiles over the insides of the solid stone window mullions. This looks terrible and the joints/gaps encourage mould. However Im not sure how to mitre the boards to fit?
Good job. Is there still some risk of condensation on the solid wall even with the foil backing vapour layer and sealant?
Also how many cans of Insta Stik covered how many boards?
It's possible but hopefully moisture will escape out of the wall faster than it enters so no build up of moisture occurs. We just have to do our best to reduce it getting in in the first instance đ
I think it was just 1 can, certainly no more than 2.
Can I use this insulated plaster board & form to seal for my garage wall ?
Garage wall made single wall ( 2 side ) & other side made up with block
Will that helps ?
Warning, if there's a chance that the room temperature will drop below, I think, 5C just closing down the TRV is not enough as they open at about this temperature as a built in anti-frost setting. Use a proper screw on valve depressor thingy, they usually come with the TRV. Been there done that, didn't enjoy the soaked floor experience!
Secondly, I think the insulation on all these insulated boards acts as a vapour barrier.
This is a great video. Thank you. I have one question, i do get condensation on the wall. So for that i would need the wood baton option rather than direct adhesive option?
It's hard to say because you may be getting condensation because the wall is cold. Once you've insulated it will be warm so the condensation will be gone. So as long as the foam sticks well enough to begin with (or dot and dab cement stuff) then you may be totally fine doing this may way. I think that because the boards have a vapour barrier between the insulation and plasterboard this will also help reduce the water vapour from getting to the brick wall in the first place so I reckon it's totally fine BUT do use acoustic sealant on the joins and also around the edges. I've had no problems yet, the wall is plastered and painted and I'll be doing the next room the same way this month :)
Thank you. I will let you know how it goes. And good luck with room project!
I'd like to do this in my bathroom and apply over existing plaster which has been painted. Would it be best to remove the existing paint before installing the thermal plasterboard?
Hi. Would you say foil backed plasterbourd be sufficient for the same use. I.e external inside wall?
Do you think this method would be good for the ceiling?
10:15 Question, you mention a continuous line of foam. Could I ask what the thinking behind that is? I was once told to only do vertical lines, so any moisture that could be in the brick and would condense between brick and insulation - can trickle down the wall. Would it be better to trap air in there, or to create a cavity of sorts?
đ sure, this goes for dot and dab too, so my understanding is that:
1) you want to stop any water vapour getting through the joints between the plasterboard getting behind the sheets and condensing. If it does get behind and at least itâs confined to just behind the joints.
2) There may be a small vacuum element to it too: once dried air would have to get in for the board to fall off.
3) possibly for fire reasons, to slow spread of flame up and across the wall.
Solid line of dot/dab around board edges and accessories is to maintain fire protection.
Great video, just what I was after, wheres part 2 cheers
Cheers! Itâs the sound proofing one on the next wall, itâs on my channel. Bit of a faster pace than this vid đ
Love your videos and am well aware of how much research you do and how well u focus on the little details, but do you foresee any issues where the rockwall was put between the floor joists, by doing this isnt the wall going to be colder so vapour can condense on it, im assuming the rockwall has no vapour check qualities within it or if it does not very reliable so are the joists going to be in contact with a wet wall that cannot dry due to no gap and air flow thus risking structural issues later down the line from sweating and rot. Really hope the instastik idea works long term, makes it so much easier and less messy than dot and dab.
It's a really good question and I wondered the same so I kept checking it while the floorboards were up (and it was winter) and there was no moisture. I guess if you were to put acoustic insulation down which is not that far off thermal insulation in U-values then that would be done all the way to the wall - I believe. That's done regularly and there shouldn't be issues. The other thing is that the brick wall is breathable so should let water vapour escape.
More often than you might expect with these things is that what works in one house, facing in one direction, in a particular location doesn't work for another - like cavity walls -sometimes they seem totally fine and other times they have damp problems so overall i'm not certain but it's a good point that I did think about. Of course when things are hidden away above plasterboard and below floorboards you don't know what's going on but I'd have thought there would be some damp on the plasterboard below before things got too bad.
Does the plaster go on fine over the joints were u applied the acoustic sealant
Hi mate , how much does the foam expand ? Do you get a tight fit
Hi, I am looking to do the same thing in a garden Annexe which I am now using as a home office. My issue is that the walls have been previously finished with a very rough plaster finish. What are your thoughts on this? e.g. would I need to re-plaster to ensure a flat surface prior to installing the boards? Although this approach does seem fairly double handed.
Great video, I had considered all the same options you had and this definitely helped me to make my decision! Thanks a bunch!
James
Hey James, is it currently plaster direct on brick/block like mine? If so, no it doesn't need to be flat as the layer of insta-stik takes out all the irregularities. Just make sure the plaster isn't crumbling. If however you've got plasterboard already then the threat is that if it's not well adhered or fixed then it can come off (probably unlikely but worth being aware of). Plasterboard attached to battens might be worth taking off to get back a few cms of space before you do insulated plasterboard.
Great stuff. Would this method work with foil backed panels (e.g celotex pl400)? Thanks
I don't know for sure, and that's partly why I went for the paper backed stuff. I've noticed that expanding foam doesn't stick at all well to foil but it may be a different story with this adhesive foam. Even with dot and dab, I've seen some people pva the foil first to get a stronger hold so that may be the work around. Test it and see!
Can I tile this board when fixed this way? Would it hold the weight of the tiles in a bathroom? Thanks
Tape and jointing not be too easy when butjoints and not tapered joins
However you can get fiba tape ultra thin which will help. A wallpaper would also.
The top range insulation lining paper and ready mix glue is a pretty good budget option its ÂŁ100 a 1m wide roll. It does work to an extent. Used in own property.
Yeh I've done it before and just had to feather the butt joints a lot, it came out well. I used paper tape, didn't know about an ultra thin mesh - thanks!
Does foam adhesive reduce air cavities behind the insulation board and thereby reduce amount of condensation/mould?