Garden Room Workshop: Part 15. Wall Insulation & Vapour Barrier
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- čas přidán 22. 02. 2020
- Find the full series playlist here: bit.ly/2BiLSyC
Part 15 of a video series about how to self-build a timber-framed garden room office (aka tiny house) /wood workshop in the UK.
This video covers the PIR and rockwool wall insulation, acoustic insulation and vapour barrier.
The purpose of this video series is to provide all the information required for viewers to build their own garden room rather than just a montage of the building work. It took me months of research to learn everything in these videos so I hope to save people time and money.
The videos are a mix of theory and footage of the build including all the mistakes I made along the way. I am not a builder or tradesman, just a keen DIY-er with some basic tools. Everyone can do this!
In the longer term, I hope to turn this channel into a community for garden room self-builders and to eventually evolve into a woodworking projects channel- the real purpose of my garden room!
Garden room ideas: workshop, office, games room, cinema room, art studio, music studio, yoga retreat, spare bedroom, annexe, run a home business such as yoga classes or hair salon.
🌍My website - www.alidymock.com
📸Instagram - / alidymock
💌 Email - hello@alidymock.com
Where the tool I used isn't available, closest option linked:
Tools used:
Wood saw
Festool Sword Saw: amzn.to/2T6qeTb (if you buy through this link I'll get a very nice commission!)
Stapler amzn.to/2whWcRI (UK)
Ladders
Stanley knife amzn.to/2wjGRQD (UK)
Tape measure: www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-ty...
1.8m spirit level amzn.to/2BRo5Fp (UK)
Sealant gun amzn.to/2whu9lk (UK)
Sealant www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...
Sharpie pen amzn.to/2PHUSzN (UK)
Spray foam gun www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...
Impact driver www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-er...
Hammer amzn.to/2oeWBjv (UK)
Safety: gloves, eye-wear, ear protection, dust mask
Materials used:
90mm PIR insulation
100mm thermal insulation (Rockwool) www.selcobw.com/rockwool-ther...
50mm sound insulation (Rockwool) www.selcobw.com/rockwool-soun...
Aluminium tape www.toolstation.com/search?q=...
Polythene vapour barrier www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Green...
Acoustic sealant www.toolstation.com/ac50-trad...
Spray foam www.screwfix.com/p/soudal-sou...
OSB & battens
Good websites to check prices for materials :
www.selcobw.com/
www.builderdepot.co.uk/
Music: Joakim Karud - Jak na to + styl
For cutting PIR there are purpose made handsaws for the job and they create MUCH less dust. They have a cutting profile similar to a large breadknife. They can 'wander' a bit though on thicker stuff 50mm plus. However if you want to make your life really easy you can buy 150mm jigsaw blades with the same 'breadknife' profile. These do a fantastic job, even in thick PIR. Very quick and low on dust.
Love it. I wonder if they make circular saw blades for the task too...
@@AliDymock Hi Ali, yes they do, my apologies, I should have included that. Look for a circular blade called 'Centrefire" by Bullet Tools. American brand but available on Amazon UK. I have only used the handsaw from Bahco and the special jigsaw blades from Bosch.
Super, I'll pin your comment to the top for others to see 👍
And the fact that you have pinned the above (as it;s clearly a top tip, however amazing a Festool mini chain saw thing would be) is further evidence of your ludicrous helpfulness!
@@AliDymock
I cut pir with a knife then like plasterboard snap over and cut other side very quick easy method
Great to see you back. I hope its all going well in the new house.
I've seen lots of videos on DIY building, renovation and insulation, but none as crammed full with knowledge and tips as yours. Thanks!
Thanks Onno, I appreciate that!
Thanks for continuing with this series ... it's invaluable help for me, and I'm sure many other people too.
the clarity and attention to/ level of detail...love this series.
This summer I’m gone build exactly one like yours, thank you for all instructions... well done 👍🏻
Welcome back, Ali! Hope the move up-country went/is going well.
Brilliant detail and step by step nothing missing, been looking at a project to convert my old garage into a useable space. This will help me immensely thank you, by far the best instructions love the use of the diagrams to explain certain aspects of the build.
Great video, currently converting the garage into a living space. The insulation part really helped as the builder is trying to do it on the cheap!
Finally. Thanks for uploading Ali, I’m sure I’m not the only one been checking for your next video.
Ali +1 great series, love that you explain the thinking... so good. I'm going to do my own.. and your series is a big plus.
Lots of top tips, a bit of Festool action and DQ Quads (I think) - what a great combination! 👌👍
I’ve made that exact statement, no one is more interested in your build than you.
Excellent vid, well explain, and shown.
Cheers
Great minds 😉
Ali, another great video. I really look forward to your videos as I am planning my own garden room to start this summer. I hope all is going well with the new house and thanks again for continuing this series
Thanks for your support Neil, it means a lot :) I will be getting the next few out more quickly but will be about a month before the next one
So many questions answered via your videos. Im about to convert a 14 x 40 shed with lofted ceiling into a tiny house.
Others have said as much already but still feel compelled to say what a fantastic series this is: literally perfect balance of detail and getting on with it. Top job Ali, seriously good videos (from sunny, in isolation, Wrington, Bristol).
Thanks so much Gary, it helps to know they are hitting the right cord so thanks for taking the time to comment!
Absolutely brilliant videos mate. Exactly what I needed.🤘🏻
Insulating a concrete garage, this video series is awesome, thanks so much
I am insulating a single skin room attached to the back of the house. Did you leave a gap between the studwork and the wall or go flush?
I was looking at insulation between my roof rafters in my loft. I didn’t have a clue but a lot of things explained 😁
Absolutely fantastic video. I’ve learnt so much in this video. I never knew that the vapour barrier goes on the warm side of the room, so you wouldn’t do, vapour onto brick then batten then pir. You would go, batten on brick first, then pir in between, then Vapor barrier.
Such a brilliant video. This guy is fantastic. So classy and always happy to learn and teach and help along the way to the viewers.
Thankyou for this video.
Tom.
Very helpful. Will be watching the rest. Thanks for sharing.
Had this pop up on my feed, great video and good attention to detail. This is the thing about doing it yourself you can take your time and avoid cutting corners also a good help when getting builders in as gives you reference point to compare with!
Spot on. Even knowing a bit about this stuff can help you identify cowboy builders.
I can’t tell you how good these videos are! Keep them coming!
Thanks for encouragement Oliver, it's appreciated!
thanks for the info, I'll be doing a similar job next week for the little one's room 👍
Great advice and well explained. Thank you.
Thanks for taking the effort to share what you learned, and explain everything in thorough detail. I really appreciate that you don't treat your viewer like an idiot, while also not making assumptions about what they might already know.
So glad you like it. That's right, nothing is dumbed down but nothing is left out either :)
I'm just about to add an upper floor extension on the house in timber as the brick cavity wall is too small so will be using some of these tips....
As ever a great video. I am about to start wall and ceiling insulation (I have a cold roof) so this has answered a few questions I had.
Glad to hear it Justin 👍
I’m on part 15 👍 very well presented watched them straight through on the tv so not seen the comments. setup is slightly different for CZcams on the tv
Awaiting this weather to break and starting mine 4x4,foundations in ready.
All I’ve done is watch the videos is there a point in a price has been established and broken down. Cheers very good content enjoyed the viewing 👍
Not sure I understood the penultimate sentence but glad you like it and watched on the big screen (well big screen for youtube anyway!)
Needing to know which vapour barrier to get, come back to your video and there it is right in the description. Thanks a lot!
Ahhh... more videos! Keep them coming.. I may just overtake you and used your vids as inspiration and direction so far.
You sir are amazing taking your time with making this video, it will help me greatly with my outdoor office.
Glad it was helpful Ranjit!
Next time you want to cut the foam, use a electric carving knife like the ones used to carve a turkey. Clean cut, no dust, quick cuts and no beads. No wasted material by having blade cutting a curf through the material.
Keep it up mate. Loving these vids x
Thanks - top drawer!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video Ali, all the blog articles you read are SEO generated garbage that don't actually go into the details or realities of building this DIY. yours is really definitive
Great job mate, lots of good ideas to get me going
Amazingly helpful, thank you!
thanks for giving me such a great idea
Excellent work Ali 👏
This couldn't have come at a better time! thank you so much! :) And thanks for the rubber roof code too!
Great to see another video.
FWIW standard plasterboard is a perfectly good vapour barrier on it's own (once painted) if you install it properly. Of course a polythene sheet behind it is extra insurance and doesn't hurt but isn't strictly necessary.
really? Hmmmm. So does the paint act as a vapour barrier or the plasterboard or together? And is this the case if you don't do a full plaster skim and just tape and joint (drywalling)?
@@AliDymock It's the combination. The bare plasterboard provides most of the resistance and then you cover it in paint which is like sealing it up.
The vast majority of top floor ceilings in houses are built like this, plasterboard on the ceiling and then above it is unfaced fibreglass insulation. Works just fine on ceilings like that.
Just came across this channel..
Stunning..
🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Welcome Archie!
Very informative and well presented, you earned my subscription :)
Why thank you kind vegan 🤗
Just been watching some of your garden room videos, I'm a bit late to the party! Brilliant work, really informative and well made videos. Keep up the good work and I look forward to more projects from you in the future....as if you don't have enough to do already!
Thanks dude! I've been watching your vids on and off for years 😀
@@AliDymock I remember you asked me a question about something a year or two ago then put two and two together. I didn't realise you had a channel at the time! Seriously though excellent vids and good luck with your channel.
I really hope to get started on mine garden room next year and this series have given me confidence that I won't encounter pitfalls that I can't manage on my own.
I just discovered posi-joists, so I want to look into making a warm roof that's not as tall, if that's at all possible.
Unfortunately pir foam insulation seems to be pretty rare in Denmark, so I'm worried it might be too expensive to consider. Seems to be nice to work with, especially for floor and roof.
Good stuff. Get the base/floor right and the rest will fall into place.
Posi-joists look great especially if you have a really wide span (6m+)!
Best of luck with your build!
Good morning Ali ...nice to see your next instalment....looks like ur nearly there!.....hows things going with ur new home....do keep us up dated old bean !
haha I will. We really haven't done much and have kept to the 6 month rule of no works and new ideas and thoughts have come to mind but this year should have a few interesting projects. This series is the priority though, otherwise I'd annoy everyone I think lol
Good info. Really useful. Thank you.
Absolutely great videos, Ali, and they have helped me immensely with my own garden studio renovation. Sorry if this has been asked before but when insulating the floor, should there be a gap between the insulation and the plywood? My floor is over quite a big void as the building is on a steep slope. And there are air bricks all around. So from bottom up it would go: void, then insulation boards fitted between joists, then vapour barrier, then plywood. Then possibly laminate flooring. If a gap is needed, where would the gap be? My feeling is that no gap is needed...? Thanks!
This is such help with the garden room I’m now building just would help if they came out a bit quicker so won’t need to wait till next video to come out but still such help
Glad they are helping Kye. Heheh I know, I'll do my best to get them out quicker.
been watching 👀 from the first episode thought i would watch how you built yours as i was just starting mine and was looking and learning how and where to start its been a massive learning curve doing it all myself .. after watching all your videos and a few others built up the confidence i just went for it turned out pretty good 😉 i went for concrete base, shiplap cladding, wool insulation, plasterboard then plaster, rubber roof, tiled floor, with underfloor heating, 😅😅 with a shower room with toilet, total size 3.8m x 7m
Wow, with underfloor heating too, sounds grand - do you have pics?
I Documented it with pictures and videos but my phone got stolen so lost most off the project will upload the ones I have plus ones off it finished
That sucks! sorry to hear that. Well if you fancy having it on the website regardless, pop me an email: www.alidymock.com
Excellent to see you back Ali. I'm starting to plan a workshop build for this summer and your videos are all I will need to guide me along the way. I'm so grateful to you for taking the time to share your beyond generously comprehensive 'how to' advice and seriously detailed research into all areas of your build and your great camera work too 😃👍 I hope all is going well with your new home alterations 😃😃
Thanks Maria. Great, can't wait to see yours!
@@AliDymock 😃👍
Hey Maria! I couldn't help but notice you didn't comment on my latest video and you ALWAYS COMMENT! so I wanted to reach out and make sure you're okay?
@@AliDymock What a lovely thing to do Ali, thanks so much. I'm great thanks. I don't know what's happened there, that I've missed one of your videos 😕 I will catch up immediately 😃😃 I hope you are both well and keeping nicely busy 😊 Take care and stay safe 🌼
@@mariah4451 glad to hear it! :)
+Have been waiting a while for the next installment. Best series on how to build a garden room. Awesome.
Thanks Chris!
This series has been brilliant! I’m just starting a timber frame conservatory build on the side of my Mum’s annex. There’s a covered decking there already but, after watching your videos and doing some research, I’ve realised it hasn’t been built properly. I’m essentially starting from scratch.
I’m a self employed mechanic/car builder/restorer by trade and a keen DIYer - after the eye-opening and stressful experience we had with the builders who worked on the annex I’m doing stuff myself.
That's awesome, good for you. I must say, it's nice to have control so good choice and once you break the stages down, you realise it's very doable! Best of luck, with your experience you'll do great. Feel free to send photos Robin, I always learn from them 👍
Ali Dymock thank you for the encouragement! I work from home and I’m extending my workshop bit by bit as well. This will be my first venture into a domestic build and I’m really looking forward to it. I’ll definitely document the build and keep you posted 👍🏻
Ali Dymock I’ve just ordered the materials for the framework so, providing COV19 doesn’t disrupt delivery in the next few days, I’ll be good to start next week. One thing I wanted to ask (I’m sure you’ve covered the topic somewhere and have been asked before) - did you look into putting a breathable membrane under the floor insulation over the joists? Tyvek suggest you use Supro in a suspended floor but that’s with a wool/glass quilt or batt insulation. Quinntherm’s installation guide is as per you’ve done. My only thought was could moisture in the air from underneath get into the floor joists and soak into the sides of the PIR and not be able to get out? Perhaps I’m massively overthinking this but I’d really appreciate another person’s perspective on this. One idea I had was to staple dpc to the top and sides of the floor joists to form a barrier between where the timber and the PIR meet...
@@robinlaker I haven't covered it again but will do so, though no quite the question you ask. The floor and insulation should be open to the underside to allow air flow. It's trapped air that is the problem and why houses have air bricks to allow that flow of air under the floor. A breathable membrane isn't really required because it stops rain water (mainly) which you won't get underneath your garden room. You could use it but I'm not sure it would do a lot.
Not quite sure what you mean in the last sentence (I can't picture it) but I really think it's not needed and could actually cause problems.
Do you have a link to Quinntherm's installation guide? I'd be interested to see/use for a future vid.
Ali Dymock that all makes sense. There’s a lot of online info and it’s difficult to know what to go with sometimes. www.quinn-buildingproducts.com/insulation-boards/floor-insulation/insulating-suspended-timber-floors-between-timber-joists/ - hopefully that link works?... 👍🏻
I’ve never seen plastic sheeting put up over the joists internally before plaster boarding. If you’ve got Tyvec on the outside I’m worried you’re trapping moisture inside the walls (timber) which can lead to rot. I wouldn’t be surprised if your walls start to sweat when it gets hot.
I’m pretty sure PIR insulation does that job already.
Correct me if I’m wrong
This is exactly what I'm thinking...I'm currently part way through my build, and logic tells me wrapping the inside like this is not good. Different states in America, moving north into cold regions, it makes more sense, but in the UK, this can't be right.
In the process of building my own shed and have been researching this a lot. From my understanding:
- Tyvek outer wrap is a BREATHER MEMBRANE. It lets moisture pass through it on one side but does not let 'bulk water and air penetrate it.
- The vapour barrier on the inside of the walls is to stop vapour from the inside of the building passing through the walls and hitting the cold side of the insulation and condensing.
Can’t wait to see the projects on the new house.
me too! We're saving at the moment lol
Ali Dymock I bet 😂 Tip for someone who’s been there. Try to do one room at a time. It’s tough but worth it.
Absolutely - definitely the best way to go, I'd go potty otherwise.
Doesn't always pan out like that as it turns out:. The downstairs shower room could really do with being upgraded from a 6mm to 10mm cable for the electric shower. That means I need to take the plasterboard off the hallway to make way for the wire. As I'm doing that we may as well put spotlights in the hall ceiling. Since I'm doing lights I should probably get the ones in the utility/boot room done too. Oh and yeh, I need a new consumer unit with RCD protection to stop us getting electrocuted in the shower 🙈🙈🙈😭😭😭
Ali Dymock 😂 tell me about it. I changed a radiator to a triple column cast iron in the sitting room and ended up changing all the flooring, fixtures, making fitted cabinets in alcoves etc. It never ends 😆
Thanks for this great series, it has been so helpful. Can I ask what you use for cladding on the outside of your building, I'm just ordering all my timber and I can deside what to use
Great video, I will be using some tips when insulating my garage.
My garage has a single skin brick wall, should I look to install some sort of DPM/barrier between the brick and the insulation?
I'll be using polystyrene boards to help keep costs down. Would it be worthwhile fixing some thermawrap over the top to create the same effect as the PIR and then vapour barrier over that?
Sword saw... no kill like over kill. Love it
It seems you’re doing everything absolutely perfect. But do you think the polythene sheets on the internal wall are slightly overkill?
Or to word it better, is that totally necessary?
Good question.I would probably make the argument like this: Think of it as a scale from a cheap shed on end to a high end timber-framed house on the other. All the extras you add move the scale towards the house side of the scale. Would the building be 'fine' without the polythene vapour barrier? Probably.
I could have gone for cheaper insulation throughout, no OSB on the walls or on the roof joists etc. I could have also gone the other way - underfloor heating, more insulation, aluminium windows and doors etc - I guess it comes down to your time, what you want from the room, your budget etc ;)
its definitely not needed on the inside of the walls when you already have tyvec on the outside of the walls
@@s1dew1nd3r4 I disagree. 3% moisture in PIR leads to a drop of 33% efficiency. The vapour barrier will prevent this loss.
@@s1dew1nd3r4 Tyvek is not a vapour barrier. Those are 2 different things that are both very important to have: an air barrier on the outside (tyvek or equivalent) + a vapor/air barrier on the inside (poly or equivalent)
@@RickGrimes807 so you would put tyvek on the outside and then what would you line the inside with?
Hi Ali, how did you deal with sealing the plug sockets, did you do anything to stop air escaping through the metal socket boxes?
Alright Ali love your work👌 I was hoping for some advice on a shed I'm building at the side of my house, I'm building it out of 4x2 with 70mm insalation boards with a air gap of 30mm gap for wires + vent, osb boards both sides with membrane and batton + Feather edge cladding outside with a polycarbonate roof, as iv had the sheets for nothing and I like the idea of the light in work shop/shed. I also have a concrete slab floor with damp proof under. my question Is?? would you also put vapour barrier over insalation inside aswel or not bother as I'm not heating it as much just a small fan heater now + again just to take the edge of ? Cheers Mark 😉
Great vid
Hello, I like how you insulated the walls, very neat and properly done. My garage, as per normal in the UK, have a one layered brick wall and thinking of insulating them similar to the way you how you have done yours. Seeking your advice, with regards to the vapour barrier, what would you put between the brick wall and insulation? and how much space would you leave between? Looking forward to your response. Much oblige, Rob
Nice.
Hi Ali, great videos. What do you think about using SIP panels for a small garden Room, about 5 X 2.5m? I wonder why you didn't go this route, I'm weighing up options
I’m so glad I watched this video as I’m just about to insulate my double brick built garage and was going to put the vapour barrier on the wall side of my studding, as I had seen this on another well known video maker. Great detailed video 👍🏼
Cut Your installation to the correct size of gap then cut out any grooves needed for pipework and electricity cables but cover the back of the insulation where the cut is with silver tape folded into all the crevices and gaps before placing over the electrics or pipework
Just subscribed and just became a fan
Amazing videos Ali, I'm planning my own build at the moment using these for most of the inspiration.. Quick one though, I can't figure out if the walls are supposed to be vented? I was planning on using 50mm PIR between 100mm studs, which leave a good air gap but no means of ventilating with external ply?
BTW to cut insulation I got some 150mm long insulation jigsaw saw blades from milwaukee, cuts like butter and virtually no dust as its more like a knife and not a cutter. U also can do angle cuts well too by using the angle on the jigsaw.
Sounds brilliant. I'll do the same in future for sure!
Hi Ali, Im interested how you got around the building regs ref 1 mtr from the neighbours garden what was you Class 0 wall option. If this is covered in a video please let me know which video and ill review again thanks
Solid content pal, new sub earned.
Hi Ali I have started my garden man cave /bar from watching your videos so helpful and detailed but I have a question I dnt intend to heat it or air con so do I need a vapour barrier and should I still use tyvek outside and use instulation in walls and roof as I've read someone has a lot of mould build up as moisture was trapped ? Cheers James
Hi. Great video. Watched most of the videos in this series. Well done. One question for you please. How do you hang something heavy on an insulated plasterboard please? Thanks
Great vid's it seems fortunate that you fully insulated your roof i.e. overhangs , if not then warm air going through the "gaps" in-between the roof beams could condense on the cold vapour barrier ?
Thanks!
Great job as always. Im on cladding now so before I start I want to see your attention to details hahaha do the homework for me come on already 🤣
haha. How about you do it, email me all the details, then I'll make the video? 😜
I've never seen a channel with 36k subs but 300k views per vid. Congrats
I guess it could be turned around: I've got all these views but not many subscribers 😰😉
Very informative mate, one quick question. How did you go about insulating the section at the overhang, at the top of the wall?
You don't need to worry about insulating around cabling as your electrician will already have derated the cable to take insulation into account. Derating essentially means taking the maximum current rating of a given thickness of wire and reducing it by a factor based on what it is going to be surrounded by. In stud walls this typically always accounts for the wall filled with insulation.
Another helpful video, thanks! I really appreciate your thoughtful approach to problem-solving and have now watched almost all of your videos.
I want to insulate (using foam/polystyrene sheets) a new shed framed out of 2 x 2 battens, which has 16mm shiplap cladding on the walls and 11mm tongue and groove on floor and roof.
Can I just check I understand your rationale for where to put the moisture barrier (I'm using polythene sheets)? You suggest the following order from outside to in: (1) shiplap siding, (2) insulation, (3) moisture barrier, (4) sheet lining material (I'm using 11mm OSB).
Is your rationale that when inside moisture hits the moisture barrier, you want the moisture barrier to be as far away from the cold source as possible? So, the problem if I switched (2) and (3) above is that the polythene would be close to the outside siding layer, and inside moisture would be more likely to condense?
I’ve only just worked this out today, a year after you asked the question. From looking at a couple of other vids, you would be correct that the vapour barrier would be between the celotex (what I’m using) and the mineral wool (rockwall etc). What I would like to know is if it is recommended to leave a small gap between the inside of the cladding (with the outer being the exterior wall) and the celotex, like I have seen suggested. Just glad I saw your question, I hope you built your shed successfully if so! 👍
Cold bridging is always an issue with heavily insulated walls so foam fill all gaps and ideally tape over with foil tape. Cable conduit is ideal and can be foamed over no problem. Check the regulations but conduit can require a larger cable or for ring mains run each 2.5mm line in its own conduit. Correct spec cable for the load won't overheat.
Lmao. Great video but I laughed when you said Steve had the festool pir saw and was wanted to come help you at yours for the experience in building a shed. Is he the kind of guy who buys all the pro level tools because he ‘needs’ them? 😜
Haha I know. Let's just say he has them because he *_can_* have them. I'm just happy I get to try them out for free!
Would you recommend the celetex to insulate between the floor joists in the attic? Would I need air to circulate between the joists or would it be okay to use sheets the same thickness at the joists?
Hi Ali, how you doing good I hope... My cabin is still going strong we spend more time in there than the house now!... Have you ever thought of doing a camper van conversion?... Would love to see your meticulous approach to a van build. Can't be that difficult eh? 🤔
Great to hear that Lee! Not really, a camper van doesn’t appeal to me, I could just sleep in my car and bring a stove to cook on, so I don’t really get them.
A tiny house on a trailer does appeal greatly though. I’d like to build one someday.
Great Detail! just curious, why did you do the insulation on the inside for the area roof rim joist area, wouldnt it have made sense to add that insulation to the outside?
Festool are the nuts, I borrowed a friends when over boarding my wife's salon for the tiled floor..... Made light work of it
I use the aluminium tape for lotsofthingsand it sticks really well, BUT it has virtually no mechanical strength in tearing mode etc. I would have used this to seal then Gorilla duct tape on top for strength, this stuff is really strong and also sticks well.
Hi Ali - following closely as im about to take delivery of my log cabin. when installing the PIR board in the walls, i noticed that you didn't leave any gaps or spacers behind them for air flow. i trust your judgement as all of your decisions are research based, so would be good to understand why you didn't do this. your words will give me a guide to if i build a small air pocket behind the PIR or just slot it in.
The idea is that the battens that go on the outside between the wall and cladding create that air gap instead of doing it between the studs.
Good evening Sir
If I were to apply the same principle to a single skin brick build with timber batten, insulation and vapour barrier, would this still achieve a good U value?
Thanks
Fantastic to see another video. Thanks to your videos, you are making a huge contribution in helping people such as myself make it possible to build such great buildings.
Brilliant bit of video/editing work. It must have been as much, if not more, effort than the actual build itself! Anyway it's totally inspired me to get going and I'm now at the PIR flooring stage. Re newer advice about putting a vapor barrier between the ply and PIR/joists (with air gap). As with an earlier video, presumably there would be no need to glue the ply to the joists anymore to prevent movement? would you recommend another solution to cater for movement?
You're so right, it was and is much more work than the actual building work! Yeh good question, you don't strictly need the grab adhesive, just helps prevents squeaks and keeps the floor solid. Even if you put down a polythene sheet you can still use grab adhesive as the screws will hold the ply/OSB in place 👍
Nice garden kill room.
😂exactly what my mate said. It looked like a scene from Dexter!
What thickness of insulation board would you recommend for a 8x8' wooden hut for the walls, roof and floor? I am planning a warm roof. Thanks
Great video. Trying to figure out if I need a vapour barrier in my build? I am converting my garage into a room, but the existing garage door is remaining. Consequently I am constructing a room within a room (stud walls and ceiling in the garage. lined with OSB + plasterboard), then another separate wall 2ft behind the existing garage door that spans the width and height. It's an internal garage, all blockwork. Unsure if vapour barrier should be on the inside of the inner wall or if I need one at all.
With block work I’m less certain, especially if it has a cavity but if you’re putting up a stud wall, you will likely want to put up a vapour barrier inside of the studs, especially where blocking off the garage door. The other option is to use insulated plasterboard dot and dabbed directly to the block work. If it’s cavity I would just attach plasterboard and then only do a stud wall where the garage door is.
Hi Ali. I’m wanting to keep the roof joists exposed in mine. Do you know of a way to install the vapour barrier whilst leaving the roof joists exposed. I’m doing a warm roof like yours
Hey with all these garden room, am I right in thinking I could use this style of building to make an extension to my house
Yeh, there's no reason it needs to be in brick and block, timber is just as good if not better. The one issue is the boundary so have a good think about that unless you have a detached house.
Thinking of the vapour barrier, I somehow forgot to put one between my floor insulation and the plywood floor. Too late now, but is it worth laying one on top of the plywood before I put down the final laminate or floorboards? Thanks