Detailing & Weathering The HO Scale Atlas Boxcar | Boomer Diorama ~ # 207
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- čas přidán 25. 11. 2023
- This is a comprehensive "Feature" video demonstrating how-to add & fix details to older HO Scale Boxcars. I also include and some weathering tips as well.
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Thanks
I spend nearly all my free time going through the vlogs on your website Boomer. No one explains how to do things in this hobby like you do!
Awesome Peter! Thank you! 👍👍👍😁
Boomer to Boomer. The content you produce is the best. I really appreciate your work. Thank you from Kings Park NY.
Much appreciated! Thank you from New York . . . the city on my Bucket list. ;-)
Vancouver island is on mine one day. Be well.
Once again I watched breathlessly, what a party, so much peace and quiet, and of course I also learned a lot about the subject. Even if someone doesn't do model building, it is still fantastic to see. Many thanks for all the effort.
Thank you for showing interest and supporting the channel the way you do! Cheers ~ Boomer.
always love seeing dusty. beautiful feline, and awesome work on the layout. Thanks for the updates!
Thanks for watching! Yes indeed. Dusty is a beautiful girl for sure. ;-)
60h days, I hear that. Whenever I’m doing something I love ,time just whips by.
Lol . . . with an I.V. in the arm as well for those long "zone" times we can't seem to let go of. ;-)
Dude, you have one of the best layouts I've ever seen. The detail is amazing, and even the details are detailed lol. I think I've bitten off more than i can chew on mine. It started as a 1'x4' switching layout. Now i have over 60' of track wrapping the walls of my shed lol! The track work is finally completed, but now comes the HOOOOOUUURS of detail and scenery work lol. I looked at everything and figured if i put my head down and get to it, I'll have it done by 2045 lol!
Soak up the experience and the journey because it is awesome. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Thanks for another very helpful video, Boomer. I'd been using a stash of preformed coupler cut bars until a while back when it ran low and I learned what they now cost. Yikes! I use 12 mil brass wire to make my own now. And fragile stirrup steps are one of my pet peeves. I can't seem to build an Intermountain boxcar kit without breaking at least one in the process. I store freight cars on a set of storage tracks, each with a rerailer section, separate from my layout. I fitted a pair of BBQ/grill tongs with some foam and use them to move the cars between storage and the layout (where I use a Kato rerailing ramp to get them on the interchange track). Again, thanks, and cheers from Wisconsin!
They are easy to break indeed. Stirrups are the very last thing I put on after all the other stuff no matter how long it takes. These two cars are donee. 99 more to go . . . lol.
This channel is great! I have many cars pending weathering including this Atlas boxcar (Pillsbury leaser) on my dual-gauge (HOn3/HO) three-industry (Heinz pickle, vinegar and Pillsbury) shelf layout. I got the same replacement steps, as the OEM ones are poor; now I see how to install them. You have validated much of my approach in trying to achieve an overall high level of realism in all phases. My Dad and I would always go to various clubs and some would have poor scenery, others poor rolling stock, etc. Such a great vibe here! Thank you.
Thank you. Please enjoy the channel at will and all the best modeling to you. Pushing the detail envelope is awesome. ;-)
Thank you. I think everyone who enjoys your channel knows their best modeling capacity is elevated greatly by watching even just one video. Too many good things for words.@@boomerdiorama
The part where you mention you gotta be brave! Brave painters turn into good painters! I've been struggling with the risk factors as I'm always afraid ill make the model worst than it already is! Will need to take more risks! Fantastic video Boomer!
I have a box of misfit models where I took the risk. We all do it. It's just that most don't admit it. Cheers ~ Boomer.😁😉
I remember the "one drop will hold even a man" commercial. He was suspended from a beam and had his hands on the helmet.I buy all of my rolling stock from swap meets as I can not afford the new ones. Why can't someone make the older "blue box" kits anymore. This generation wants all things ready to run and that takes a lot of fun out of the build. Besides, who can see much of the underside of a car unless you want to pick it up and if you do that on my road, you will get thrown out of the train room. If I want a lot of detail on the bottom of the car, I will place it there.
Sounds awesome. I love the Accurail "Cheapies" as well. Some of my favorite old cars are accurail. ;-)
Another masterclass Boomer including how to weather trucks without removing the wheels!
The lazy way . . . lol . . . 😉
I can relate to having an affinity to a lesser model. I have a cheapie roundhouse caboose that I modified and added a lot of details and weathering to but rather crudely. I really like it!
I would say that most of my locomotives are average as well. I detailed some of them (Atlas/Kato) but they are not exactly to the standard of Athearn Genesis or Scale Trains in every respect - but I am content with them because they look and run great.😁
I took this example and a couple more of your videos to heart before I started on a new kit last week. I must say, wet on wet weathering and working the incompatibility of Isopropyl and Vallejo paints have resulted in the most realistic roof I've ever done on a car ( an old Details West Kit) still working on the sides and ends but I'm very optimistic on how it will turn out. It's a great method or treatise on weathering Boomer, thanks!
That is awesome!
Scratching the coupler lift bars was the right call. The Tangent parts you have are the telescoping type that are used for cushioned draftgear boxes that extend significantly out from the car end.
Cheers!
Great video and nice tip about super glue and matte medium. The story I heard was that super glue was first developed / used in the Vietnam war to glue wounds together in the front lines, which is why it's so good at gluing your fingers together!
Yup. I heard that as well. ;-)
Beautiful layout.
Thank you!😁👍
Thank you Boomer! As always your ability to share your knowledge and passion are inspiring to me! I am realizing that there are no mistakes, just opportunities to learn.
Yes indeed!
Great stuff Boomer. Many thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
👍👍👍
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Fantastic! Love what you put out.
Thank you very much!
I feel I'm in good company since I use Tamiya and Vallejo for much of the same reasons you do. I even use a Paasche airbrush I love. Thanks for sharing the XF-86 process, been fretting how to handle matte finish without having it fog up. Turns out I'm most of the way there with Tamiya. Been airbrushing off and on over the years and found if I just keep it stupid simple and consistent then magic happens with the coverage. Love your aesthetic, thanks so much for sharing.
After trying virtually all the hobby paints over my fifty year tenure as a hobbyist and a pro, I find Tamiya Paint to be the best (and easiest) paint to spray through the airbrush. It is also the cheapest to thin as well. Furthermore, I can render any flat color to gloss through multiple coats using their gloss clear as well. 😁 Cheers ~ Boomer.
@@boomerdiorama I remember trying a few brands out at first and yeah, they were very inconsistent between paint colors and results. I'm also chemical sensitive so lacquers and enamels were not an option. I'm a slow builder too so how could I wait more then a day for paint curing! Tamiya just makes it easy. I'll have to try out the gloss layering you mention. I've noticed the surface and material can make a difference as well, if its nice and smooth even a flat can be somewhat glossy. Things I ponder when considering finishes.
A great clinic, sir
🚂🇨🇦🎨🖌😎 Still on board
Awsome! How are you? See you at the Second Section Podcast sometimes. ;-)
Great video! Thanks Boomer.
Cheers!
Hi Boomer , great video always liked super detailing and weathering .
That's what makes this hobby so good,you can pivot and change pace so you don't burn out on one section of the layout.
That Tamiya purple really adds to the depth of weathering on those box cars another go to color like our old friend flat flesh XF15.
Do you remember the PROTO 2000 box cars? they were very well detailed and good value for money ,
I have about 10 or more . like your last Vlog go back and review funny how thing come around full circle , but never a dull moment LOL.
Thanks Boomer another enjoyable video
A new hobby shop just opened up near me called Intercity Trains & Hobbies. They have loads of older (pre-owned) Proto 2000. So yes indeed they are awesome as well.
@@boomerdiorama Hi Boomer I will definitely check that out thank you
Wow Boomer , you really do make it look like a Sunday walk in the park... the weathering of cars I think for most is a step off into the Abyss .... spend 40+ 50 dollars on a beautiful detailed car and now taking a big gulp and weathering it... now I realize why so many modelers have un-weathered cars on there layouts... the bad four letter word ... FEAR....
Cheers Boomer , an thanks for the art class , a Sunday staple...
Thanks 👍
Personally I managed it by starting with the lowest hanging fruit - weathering the wheels and trucks with a dark rusty color. I found that so easy I ended up spraying a bit of the car. You can stop here and it makes such a difference!
Good plan!@@Syclone0044
Great video. Thanks for all the different techniques to upgrade an Atlas boxcar.
Sure. I really like my Atlas stuff as you can tell. I have samples of everything but keep going back to my Atlas. ;-)
Thank you ... I learn something in every one of your videos!!
Glad to hear it!
A trick I love for those copper steps is using a soldering iron to melt them into the shell. Still tricky with thin walls though
Yeah. The Atlas sills are very thin to begin with. You could do it if you glued in thicker block of plastic though.
Great Video with helpful content
Glad it was helpful!
A good 'late' morning! Excellent tutorial, as always. TY!
My pleasure!
I know they are 2 different locales but sure would like to see Glover Rd. And River Rd. Merged into a super shelf layout with maybe some type of diversion landscape in between as the connect point. A guy can dream. See a few other YT channels showing respect to your skills. Well earned of course.
Section three will be dedicated to Glover Road V2. It was always in the plan. ;-)
Thanks for showing all the detail work and painting tips for these cars. They looked really great at the finish!
Thank you!
I learn a lot from all your videos but I definitely needed more information on proper car detailing. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
WOW nice job thanks for the tips
Any time!
Boomer, beautiful work! I enjoy detailing freight cars so I watched your process with great joy. Some of our techniques are not that far apart, so i enjoyed watching how you do it. I tend to overuse my ACC, especially on wire details. In the past I have also used Walthers Goo for stirrup steps, but, as you know, Goo has big problems with squeezing out. On the other hand, it takes a "shock", which ACC won't tolerate. By the way, the Tangent photo-etch coupler cut bars (aka "pin lifters") are for cars with a cushion underframe. On those cars, the coupler and car body change relative position, and the "trombone" evident on the photoetch part allows the lift bar to slide and change length. Non-cushion cars still use the more traditional pin lifter as made in wire by Tangent and Detail Associates.
O.K. cool thanks for sharing that. ;-)😁
This is great! Just what I'm looking for. In the layout planing stage but have some cars and logos to play with. Also experimenting with trees. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Always a pleasure to watch, thank you for the inspirational modeling videos. My trees are looking better all the time thanks to your methods. Also your car modeling techniques are wonderful. I did the pressure washer technique on several cars. Looking forward to weathering and patching out my new fleet of East Broad Top coal cars
Great to hear!
Thanks!
You are awesome Don! Thank you! Cheers ~ Boomer.
Good Morning you,ve done a great job on your lay out & box car,s.Im doing HO MRL 18x15 in the garage.
I live in west valley city Utah 😊
Sounds great!
I nominate Boomer for Workbench of the Week.
Lol . . . it's Chaos right now though . . . ;-)
Well, more detail parts to add to my inventory. Never thought of using the Tamiya XF-86 as the final coat, always used Dulcoat. Gotta try the Tamiya. Thank for sharing this. Cheers - Larry.
I have trouble getting Testors Dull Coat now. I think it's good but I ain't waitin no more ;-)
Thanks for Sharing.
My pleasure!
Great video Boomer I learned a lot of things! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
Sure thing Nick. Thanks for sharing!😁
Another amazing tutorial. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Another superb video! Your tips and techniques are incredible, expected nothing less from you. I also want to compliment you on your video/audio/music editing, extremely well done!
Wow, thank you!
Good morning Boomer. I took your advice and went to George’s trains to pick up a sheet of .060 Plastikard. Took it home and started laying out the tenement building. Will have to think about how I will cut the windows
I usually pre-drill the openings with .060" Plastic. It is safer and easier, but takes a little more time.
Really cool.
Cheers!
Simply perfect, congratulations on the work, I live in Brazil and have been following your channel for a long time and apply the techniques you demonstrate to my models.
Would it be difficult for you to write the name of the accessories you installed in these wagons?
All the details and names of the suppliers are in the beginning of the video clearly presented. Cheers ;-)
good vid on channel nice work keep up the good vids thanks lee
Thanks, will do!
Another outstanding video, LOVE the music! Is the XF-86 any more or less resiliant to human handling and shelf life vs. Testors Dullcote as a protective finish? Trying to decide between the 2 as I have only a couple yrs experience THANKS!
Thank you! I think they are both good. I use XF-86 because it is reliable with the Tamiya XF series acrylics and it is easy to thin and shoot through my airbrush. I would have to say they both provide a durable flat finish.
My two favorite Cars are probably my two ugliest. One has been re done 3 times in the past 2 years which Is why is special to me. The other car was my first try at weathering. All brushing and I’ve tweaked it to make it acceptable for my standards
It is funny that way. I have Tangent, Scale Trains, and other fantastic models untouched on the shelf, and I still love my Atlas and Accurail cars. ;-)
Excellent video. It looks so straightforward. Did you use styrene tube, channel, or other means to hang the coupler lift bars on the cars?
Yes I did. I used # 293 - Angle
You like the heavy weathering, like the rolling stock is on its last run as a choice. I stated to use your techniques with good success. Yea, practice makes perfect. It is nice to have some toy cars for practice.
Only 5% of my rolling stock roster looks like this. I like to reflect the "condition" of the car relative to the period (2010) that I model. These cars are already over 30 years old on my layout.😁
OK, thanks for the feedback.@@boomerdiorama
Great Work Boomer, thank`s for showing us your technics. It`an awesome work. Did you have thinned the flat coat?
I looking forward for the next videos from you.
And I think you have look for new place for Dusty 🙂
Greetings from Germany
Yes I did thin the flat coat 50/50 with Tamiya (X-20A) thinner. ;-)
Beautiful. May I ask for the preasure you applied to your airbrush?
I use between 30-40 P.S.I.
Boomer, another great video.
Thank you for the explantion on the glues, and their pros and cons, and the tip with putting some matt medium over a joint done with CA.
Quick question, and apologies if it is answered else where, do you add any IPA thinner to your XF-86 clear coat? Or do you use it neat?
The details aqdded to the box car with the new stirrups andbrake levers was great, just a pity my eyes are not up to that at this time.
Cheers, and stay safe, Michael
Glad to help. My eyes are not what they used to be either. I do not thin the Tamiya "Clear" coats with IPA to minimize the risk of "blemish" anomalies. I use thee recommended Tamiya X-20A Thinner for the clear coats. I usually start with a 50/50 Thinner/Clear Coat mix and things work out well.
Would you ever do one of these tutorials for a steam engine? I know its not something that you would run on your layout, but thats all i plan on running on mine
It's not out of the question. SRY and B.C. Rail have had several Steam Excursions on their lines. I could run a big boy on mine if I wanted. I certainly have the broad curves @ 60" for it. SRY also rebuilds and restores older locomotives of varied types as well . . . therefore, anything is possible. ;-)
Boomer~ I wanted to circle back to this great video from several weeks ago. I have one comment and one question.
I remember some months ago, perhaps even a year, you suggested adding Tamiya purple to one’s painting palette. I bought some then but only had an occasion to use it this past week on some boxcar roofs. I also recently bought my second double action airbrush, an Iwata gravity feed. Wow! Truly fantastic control, and much different from my Paasche double action siphon feed. Still two fine airbrushes but with somewhat different capabilities (at least to me). But back to the purple. You can do so much with it. There are a lot of different variations of mauve, and the addition of purple has opened my colorblind eyes to them. Thank you for that.
My question is this. On the Tamiya XF-86 acrylic flat, is it thin enough out of the bottle for airbrush use, or do you dilute it some with IPA? If so, how much? Thanks. ~Brian
I thin the Tamiya XF-86 acrylic flat with the recommended Tamiya X-20A thinner @ 50/50 ratio.😁
Another great video!
Quick question, do you thin your Tamiya clear with IPA at all or do you shoot it straight from the bottle? I know we like to thin the paints with IPA and thin them way down because there is plenty of pigment to go around, but wasn't sure if that would effect a flat or gloss clear coat.
You can thin XF-86 (clear) with IPA. I do it for buildings but not rolling stock or locomotives. I use the recommended Tamiya thinner X-20A thinned @ 50/50.
Perfect thanks boomer. @@boomerdiorama
Another great tutorial. I have a question about the Tamiya XF 86. Do you use 99% IPA to thin it and if so what is the ratio. I have some and am ready to apply it to my first locomotive paint job, but am a little scared to ruin it. Thanks for all you do for the hobby.
No! Do not thin the XF-86 with IPA for your prized Locomotive. I use the recommended Tamiya X-20A thinner. I mix it 50/50 with XF-86 and it is excellent and reliable. I have full confidence on my best locomotive and rolling stock with 50/50 XF-86/X-20A Thinner. It's awesome flat and clear. 😁👍
Thanks for saving me from ruining my locomotive. I have some Tamiya thinner so will be thinning to the recommended proportions. Thanks again. 😊
Like your attitude towards trying different methods and materials. I do model vehicles as in replicas of something I have photographed, just means more to me rather than a show room perfect model kit out of the box. I know that HO scale is much smaller than 1:25 vehicles but if it makes an HO model look realistic, applying the same methods and materials make a larger scale even better. Does that make sense ? Cheers Eh!
Absolutely it makes sense! All the practice and skills are eminently transferable. Cheers!
Great video, do you thin the XF-86 flat clear with IPA or shoot if it neat?
As you know I thin all XF Tamiya with IPA except when I use XF-86. I use Tamiya X-20A thinner to thin XF-86 for clear coats to be on the safe side. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama thanks for info, 50/50 mix for thinning ratio.
I use old guitar strings for this to save money ;)
Great idea!
Unfortunately if you have a lot of ops sessions those detail parts become the fist casualties. Nice work!
No doubt about that for sure. But not so much on a "Lone Wolf" layout though ;-) Fortunately, I do more staring at the local than switching. 😉
@@boomerdiorama indeed, which solvent glue are you using there?
I generally use Plastruct Solvent due to the "low" odor factor. Tamiya makes potent solvent adhesive as well but the strong odor kills me.@@dnhman
Another great and informative thread. Any chance someday you may do a “wood” car for those of us that model earlier eras? I know that some of the pier and track techniques can be used. Thank you
Do you mean a "wood" car out of plastic?
Yes, I know that you don’t necessarily like building in wood.
I used to build with wood all the time when I was modeling in On3 (1/48). But I initially became addicted to modeling in plastic mainly because I have severe allergies to wood dust. When I realized how easy it is to model wood with plastic and paint I never bothered with wood anymore because for me it is so easy to get all the profiles in plastic and I can build in plastic faster. ;-) 😁@@richardsmith4147
@@boomerdiorama well I guess I’ll have to keep experimenting. Maybe you could do a fence and I’ll pretend it’s the side of a boxcar 😉. There are plastic wooden boxcars and such🤷♂️ just a thought. Love the channel and all that you do
@@richardsmith4147 Fences are easy. Just scribe the plastic strips with a razor saw randomly, paint them grey, and throw on some dirty brown washes, etc. Like this: czcams.com/video/9ubiVQIc-VE/video.html
I know you have said before but I have a short memory. What brand of liquid glue do you use? Again as always a very informative video.
I use Liquitex "Professional" Matte Medium. The pro stuff has the green label.
Did you put on the yellow stripes on the cars? Do you do that after or before the flat coat? Purple?? just add it to rust color. I like the way the roof turned out. I do remember an earlier vlog where you showed the " pressure washing of the tops of rail car roofs. You Da man!!
I did put the yellow stripes on much later. However, I am not sure if I like them though. They seem a little thick. You should flat coat them after, but if you don't like them you they won't come off as easy.
I got the stick on ones from Fusion Scale Graphics. I was advised afterward (my impatience 😁) that the decals are better for that reason. Never mind, still sticking with 'plan A' and will use decals instead. Both Fusion and Circus City to excellent renditions..
I would prefer decals as well due to the scale profile and thickness.@@jesselomas8626
I was trying some of your techniques on some cars I'm weathering and digging in the cabinet found a set of student grade gouche tube paints and tried them pit on a test car. The colors have an almost dead flat finish.
Any insight on these tubed water based colors as pertains to our hobby? I like their application and finish. Just wondering if it's incompatible with what I'm doing.( tamiya/Vallejo paints and finishes.
Thanks in advance.
Gouache tube paints are great and most likely compatible with other acrylics as well. Not sure how thy blend with (IPA) Isopropyl Alcohol though.
@@boomerdiorama I'll try them with the acrylic layer in finishing a project . Maybe apply and play with IPA on a test piece to see what happens. You never know till you do it!
Great! Which decals sets did you use for the GT car (both decals on each side of the door shown at 5:13 and the CN car (the large decal on the left under the reporting mark) at 40:39 ? Thanks
Those decal sets are from Micro Scale - I can't remember exact one because they are all cut up now. I just bought all three sets @ 87- 1533, 87-1534, 87-1535 (Set 1,2,3) . Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama great, thanks for replying!
Was again a great video to learn a lot from. Can you tell me Boomer what kind of couplings you use. Are the digital like a Telex coupler to make it easy to uncouple the boxcar from the locomotive.
Another question is. Did you use only Tamiya XF paints or also Vallejo paints as washes?
Cheers and greetings from the Netherlands. Ronald (Modellbahn Rosenbahn).
I use the Kadee Couplers 58- 25 Pair Sets (#58) and with the "scale" head with medium centerset shank. They are the original copper tray instead of the wisker type as well.
I use Tamiya (XF) Acrylic exclusively in my airbrush and the Vallejo "Air" with a traditional brush for washes over the Tamiya because the Vallejo has no IPA which will dissolve Tamiya on contact. I thin Vallejo with water only.
I never shoot Vallejo through my airbrush. I also like the Vallejo Air because they are thinner than standard (Model Colors) and appropriate for washes almost out of the bottle even though they cover good as well. Furthermore, I never thin Vallejo with IPA unless I want certain "Oxidized" effects where I pour IPA over fresh Vallejo to dry. I will cover more of this in detail on the next three part O Scale Boxcar series soon. Cheers ~ Boomer.
@@boomerdiorama how does this Couplers work. This because I see that there are Magne Matic couplers but than you need magnets under the rail. As I see that you can uncouple the box cars on every place you like it looks like it is another type from that maker. Cheers Ronald
I don't use magnets because I don't care to look at those magnetic air hoses thingies. I just use a skewer, and twist.@@ronaldvanpinxteren3644
@@boomerdiorama thanks for your reply. Can you show us in a short movie how that uncoupling of the car works. I have Märklin AC K-rail system. Every time I see your cars get picked-up and how they uncouple I like it a lot. I hope that it is also possible with the Märklin 3-rail system. The Märklin cars use NEM coupling connection.
@@ronaldvanpinxteren3644 To uncouple, you just reach in with a small stick and twist the coupers away from each other. There's really not much to show.
lol. If only I had a 10th of your talent
One tenth begins by trying on a cheap car or subject. Everytime I do it, it feels like the first time. ;-)
If you were starting from scratch with an undecorated car, what would you choose for the roofs base color?
I wouldn't use chrome or silver. I would use a light "Blue" grey with some areas of aged white. Galvanized metal often oxidizes to almost white before it turns to rust. Notice how "flat" canvas painters never use silver or chrome when they paint metal?
Thank you. @@boomerdiorama
How does one go about supporting your channel?
Subscribe and Super Thanks. The tab is below and then a little menu to the right under "Thanks" - Thank you!
Mr. Boomer, do you know of a scale ruler which includes 1/10 scale? I don't think I found the right type, if they're out there. That's the predominate scale I build in, to showcase movie action figures that are around 6.5"-7" tall. Usually I just eyeball it but I'd prefer to be more exact and take the guessing out of it. Figuring out scales is a little boggling for me. I'm very bad with math.
By the way, have you ever thought about bustin out masterful renditions of famous movie locations/buildings? I plan to but I don't yet have the experience in miniature scales. Building a complete building in 1/10 scale, I certainly don't have the space for that but boy that would be neat. I can't quite recall, did you say you worked in film miniatures? The best movie miniature effects seem to come in like half-scale or quarter-scale from what I gather. Sometimes I discover some movies had miniature work done in 1/10 scale but I think that's rare. And nowadays it's basically all CG. Sad state of affairs. There's no comparison. There's no true replacement for in-camera effects, IMO.
In the movies we mostly built models in 1/4 Scale (not 1/48 scale). 1/4 Scale = 3 inches is a foot with 1/4 inch increments amounting to an inch in the model. I would try "Lee Valley" Tools. Google them up, they have a great online catalogue. Otherwise, you can just make one if it's a custom size.
Why do you need a scale ruler for 1/10 scale? You can divide by 10 in your head, even if your math is bad.
You showed a closeup of your nippers, been wondering what they were and this time I could read the brand and model. Only 45 bucks on Amazon… are they worth it? The Pakistan knockoff is $11 but has poor reviews.
Don't waste your money. By the best one and buy it once. Expensive is investment - Cheap is junk. I have had this one (from Switzerland) going on 35 years and it still nips and cuts like new!
@@boomerdiorama I'd rather buy a good tool once than a shitty one 15 times.
Could someone please post a link? I can only find the $11 nippers on Amazon. I'm using Xuron nippers now (look like like their rail nippers). Nowhere near a flush cut. I'd love to upgrade to something better.
I don't have a link because I bought mine thirty years ago from Switzerland - sorry. Try - Lee Valley Tools or Micro Mark.@@IC_Guy
All Kadee trip pins removed?
I remove them almost immediately. Can't stand the site of them. If I was in N Scale or Z Scale I would probably leave them on, but not in HO. I get why people use them though. I just manually un-couple with a "pointy" chop-stick. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama I've never understood why Kadee don't supply couplers without trip pins. Very few people seem to use the magnet uncouplers, and most serious modelers cut the trip pins off.