I have had two of these 49cc 4 strokes, I built a bike for my dad using the four stroke. And I have a shift kit 2 stroke that does come with a iron bore its the newer "110" cc its truly a 85cc I love the little four stroke no fuse just ride and ride...but I wouldn't give my shift kit 2 stroke up they just take alot of set up time and finding the "best" or better parts lol. Enjoy your project.
Man, a huge thanks for this video. You've done a really decent job of cleaning this cutie. A few days ago I've ordered one 144F kit for a bicycle. Hope this thing will work properly.
@@mrpartridge8765 wow... 400$ is too high, really. I personally bought the whole kit for around 250$ here. Of course the bicycle is still to be found, but that's not a problem at all.
I have one of these. I bought it because I was done with the poor reliability of the 2 stroke china dolls. Even though the 2 strokes are fun, I don't regret the purchase. I used this engine a few thousand kilometers already and it's still running exactly the same as if it is new. The built quality is vastly superior to those 2 stroke engines. My father, god rest his soul, built a bike with a 50cc 2 stroke china doll and it still runs perfectly to this day, after 8 long years. SO there are exceptions out there.
The 2 strokes quality is here and there. When they are ported and tuned properly they are great little engines that can last as long as the 4 strokes. I've built a few 2 strokes over the years and I gotta say I prefer the 4 stroke.
FYI. A descent 2 stroke is good for up to 10k miles ( good luck with that). These 4 strokes should be good for double that or more it you take care of it.
You can't swap out the tapered for the straight shaft... unless you buy the corresponding sides of the case because they are different. What you can do... It's governed by the cdi/flywheel to max at 6800 rpm however if you get the flywheel and cdi made for the real Honda gxh or gxv 50 you can hit 9000 rpm obviously if you do for long your going to cause major issues but the original versions of these Honda clones from before 2010(I think) had no governor and as long as you didn't run red line under load all the time guys were getting 10k miles on these on the regular... if maintained(oil changes, make sure the air filter hasn't fallen apart every so often , make sure your valve lashing is set(.004" for intake and .006" for exams u believe is the sweet spot). Ungoverened I'd say have a permanent tach set up and don't go over 8500 rpm top and don't run over 7700 sustained rpm. There is a $9 air cleaner made for the Honda/Honda clone gx100 that is similar to stock just wider and more airflow. The new air cleaner also had the mount holes all the wsy through to the back... instead of inside the air cleaner box in front of the sponge air filter. I couldn't find any m5 screws long enough to mount it so, I cut 2 lengths of m5 threaded rod to make my own screws. I glued a m5 wing nut and regular against the wing nut on one end of threaded rod with epoxy(any strong glue would work) Then did the same to the 2nd threaded rod I cut so I had m5 screws long enough to hold the aircleaner/carb/plastic intake insulator/ paper gaskets. Also being wing nuts it's much easier to get to the air filter / carb and gaskets fir service and it's easier to mount back on. It all goes on at once. I built a bike with a tank frame. It's an in frame mounted 49cc 4 stroke w 4G tranny plus Sick bike parts shift kit run to a Shimano nexus 8 speed rear hub. A lot of work and I did every aspect. Paint, wheel build, front rock shox suspension fork front hydraulic disc brake rear v brake. Maybe I'll make a video but I doubt it. Thing runs like a champ and is rock solid. Got a long flex exist on amazon that sounds sweet. Just need to rejet because it's running a little lean but after that it's done and I move on to the next. I have parts for 2 more all will be shift kitted. Sorry about the rant.
If a billet rod was available I would get the honda cdi and flywheel but nobody makes it. That was something I looked into a long time ago. I stuck with the tapered shaft because getting a straight shaft was impossible. I run a gy6 taotao carb with a foam pod filter so it has plenty of airflow and looks better than a hunk of plastic lol. I have the cvt system made it just has to be mounted to the scooter and tested. Check out my videos and see what this engine can do. That gy6 carb and the high flow exhaust makes all the difference.
@@mrpartridge8765 there's a company that sells a big bore carb and reworks the stock carb... AGK I just remembered(affordable go karts) they used to sell a different cam for it but they still sell the big bore carb and the reworked stock carb. They as lso sell a velocity adapter for this motor.
Thanks for your ideas my friend. But I'm curious about one thing. If you replace that Honda's CDI and flywheel, it will be a lot faster but shorter life of motor because of high RPM. But what if you put like 58 teeth sprocket on rear wheel? RPMs will be slower than 7700 rpm but with higher torque, and If I'm not bullshiting its still faster than with stock cdi/flywheel but with extra torque. Sounds like a great deal, but what about lifespan of the motor? Like I said, RPMs will be slower than 7700 RPMs. So I guess It wouldn't hurt the motor. But I'm sure. What do you guys think?
@@strukk5742 the larger the sprocket on the tire is the slower you will go thus increasing the engine rpm. You would have crazy torque and acceleration though. There will be less load on the engine making it easier to turn more rpms. A smaller sprocket on the tire would increase speed but put more strain on the engine thus reducing rpms and possibly burning up the clutch.
@@mrpartridge8765 Thanks. I understand now. Well, yeah crazy torque and acceleration but lifespan of engine will be short, cuz of high rpms like 8k or higher, If I would use Honda's cdi/flywheel.
do you know the timing mark on the cam gear i took mine apart to do some work on one of the valves and i am not to sure what dot is the right one for the timing
I have a 66cc and a 53 4stroke, i did some 66cc mods, exhaust, reed, etc Now i want to do 4 stroke tuning, porting, big exhaust, big carb, big transmisson cuz the belt drive and stock chain is absolutely shit
Doing a port and polish helps big time with this engine but you have to completely tear it down to do so. With the gy6 carb and cvt my scooter is faster than a road legal taotao scooter. I'd say its about double the hp over stock.
Hey man I just took mine apart and I lost the washer that goes in between the cam gear and the case cover. Is it a issue becuase the motor turns freely.
Mr. P!! How the heck do I get this dang piston out!?! Did you have to completely disassemble the case to get it? I really don't wanna buy a new engine for the sake of a bad ring 🤯. If I can get to the piston easier than tearing it apart please let me know 🥹!?!
Yeah you have to take the whole engine apart. It comes apart in 3 peices and has to be reassembled with rvt sealant. It's a good little engine but it's a weird design.
i just saw where you mentioned a tear down video. i dont think anyone cares how much you know, the fact that you can tear and down and put it back running is enough
I know it wasn't the greatest lol. The bits kept getting clogged with aluminum and wouldn't cut cleanly. I just got done with some clean up and general maintenance on it including cleaning up the ports with better bits.
@@mrpartridge8765 The flow should be atrocious on the intake . Looks like it got away from you REPEATEDLY or you had a bad time matching the perimeters to a 'custom' intake? I'd recommend a blunt rounded end drill bit as a flash remover until you get the hang of the carbide finesse, not near as aggressive as long as you're steady... If the 'bits' you speak of are stones ... Even talc powder wont keep them from loading up with aluminum. Most of those little engines run pretty damn good out of the box, just correcting for any obvious irregularities Please disregard the snark as I'm a poorly funded weld/fabricator and have learned from a LOT of experiments/mistakes. Persistence is KEY
@@charlesangell_bulmtl the dremel I was using at the time had a bad bearing causing the bit to wobble and jump and the bit I was using was a carbide cutter. I was matching it to my intake that is round. I have better tools and more experience since I did that video.
I have had two of these 49cc 4 strokes, I built a bike for my dad using the four stroke. And I have a shift kit 2 stroke that does come with a iron bore its the newer "110" cc its truly a 85cc I love the little four stroke no fuse just ride and ride...but I wouldn't give my shift kit 2 stroke up they just take alot of set up time and finding the "best" or better parts lol. Enjoy your project.
Man, a huge thanks for this video.
You've done a really decent job of cleaning this cutie.
A few days ago I've ordered one 144F kit for a bicycle. Hope this thing will work properly.
I've wanted to get the 144f but it's not worth the $400 grubee is asking.
@@mrpartridge8765 wow... 400$ is too high, really.
I personally bought the whole kit for around 250$ here. Of course the bicycle is still to be found, but that's not a problem at all.
I have one of these. I bought it because I was done with the poor reliability of the 2 stroke china dolls. Even though the 2 strokes are fun, I don't regret the purchase. I used this engine a few thousand kilometers already and it's still running exactly the same as if it is new. The built quality is vastly superior to those 2 stroke engines. My father, god rest his soul, built a bike with a 50cc 2 stroke china doll and it still runs perfectly to this day, after 8 long years. SO there are exceptions out there.
The 2 strokes quality is here and there. When they are ported and tuned properly they are great little engines that can last as long as the 4 strokes. I've built a few 2 strokes over the years and I gotta say I prefer the 4 stroke.
FYI. A descent 2 stroke is good for up to 10k miles ( good luck with that). These 4 strokes should be good for double that or more it you take care of it.
Excellent video. Such a cute motor. I always wondered how these tiny 4 strokes were built. This video really helped. Thank you.
You can't swap out the tapered for the straight shaft... unless you buy the corresponding sides of the case because they are different.
What you can do...
It's governed by the cdi/flywheel to max at 6800 rpm however if you get the flywheel and cdi made for the real Honda gxh or gxv 50 you can hit 9000 rpm obviously if you do for long your going to cause major issues but the original versions of these Honda clones from before 2010(I think) had no governor and as long as you didn't run red line under load all the time guys were getting 10k miles on these on the regular... if maintained(oil changes, make sure the air filter hasn't fallen apart every so often , make sure your valve lashing is set(.004" for intake and .006" for exams u believe is the sweet spot). Ungoverened I'd say have a permanent tach set up and don't go over 8500 rpm top and don't run over 7700 sustained rpm.
There is a $9 air cleaner made for the Honda/Honda clone gx100 that is similar to stock just wider and more airflow. The new air cleaner also had the mount holes all the wsy through to the back... instead of inside the air cleaner box in front of the sponge air filter. I couldn't find any m5 screws long enough to mount it so,
I cut 2 lengths of m5 threaded rod to make my own screws. I glued a m5 wing nut and regular against the wing nut on one end of threaded rod with epoxy(any strong glue would work)
Then did the same to the 2nd threaded rod I cut so I had m5 screws long enough to hold the aircleaner/carb/plastic intake insulator/ paper gaskets. Also being wing nuts it's much easier to get to the air filter / carb and gaskets fir service and it's easier to mount back on. It all goes on at once.
I built a bike with a tank frame. It's an in frame mounted 49cc 4 stroke w 4G tranny plus Sick bike parts shift kit run to a Shimano nexus 8 speed rear hub. A lot of work and I did every aspect. Paint, wheel build, front rock shox suspension fork front hydraulic disc brake rear v brake. Maybe I'll make a video but I doubt it. Thing runs like a champ and is rock solid. Got a long flex exist on amazon that sounds sweet. Just need to rejet because it's running a little lean but after that it's done and I move on to the next. I have parts for 2 more all will be shift kitted. Sorry about the rant.
If a billet rod was available I would get the honda cdi and flywheel but nobody makes it. That was something I looked into a long time ago. I stuck with the tapered shaft because getting a straight shaft was impossible. I run a gy6 taotao carb with a foam pod filter so it has plenty of airflow and looks better than a hunk of plastic lol. I have the cvt system made it just has to be mounted to the scooter and tested. Check out my videos and see what this engine can do. That gy6 carb and the high flow exhaust makes all the difference.
@@mrpartridge8765 there's a company that sells a big bore carb and reworks the stock carb...
AGK I just remembered(affordable go karts) they used to sell a different cam for it but they still sell the big bore carb and the reworked stock carb. They as lso sell a velocity adapter for this motor.
Thanks for your ideas my friend. But I'm curious about one thing. If you replace that Honda's CDI and flywheel, it will be a lot faster but shorter life of motor because of high RPM. But what if you put like 58 teeth sprocket on rear wheel? RPMs will be slower than 7700 rpm but with higher torque, and If I'm not bullshiting its still faster than with stock cdi/flywheel but with extra torque. Sounds like a great deal, but what about lifespan of the motor? Like I said, RPMs will be slower than 7700 RPMs. So I guess It wouldn't hurt the motor. But I'm sure. What do you guys think?
@@strukk5742 the larger the sprocket on the tire is the slower you will go thus increasing the engine rpm. You would have crazy torque and acceleration though. There will be less load on the engine making it easier to turn more rpms. A smaller sprocket on the tire would increase speed but put more strain on the engine thus reducing rpms and possibly burning up the clutch.
@@mrpartridge8765 Thanks. I understand now. Well, yeah crazy torque and acceleration but lifespan of engine will be short, cuz of high rpms like 8k or higher, If I would use Honda's cdi/flywheel.
do you know the timing mark on the cam gear i took mine apart to do some work on one of the valves and i am not to sure what dot is the right one for the timing
Your missing a spacer that goes with the two feet things that have the push rods
I have a 66cc and a 53 4stroke, i did some 66cc mods, exhaust, reed, etc
Now i want to do 4 stroke tuning, porting, big exhaust, big carb, big transmisson cuz the belt drive and stock chain is absolutely shit
Doing a port and polish helps big time with this engine but you have to completely tear it down to do so. With the gy6 carb and cvt my scooter is faster than a road legal taotao scooter. I'd say its about double the hp over stock.
I live in Milford and could tell instantly the 2nd dude was from Maine. ha.
You sure do like those push rods. lol
Hey man I just took mine apart and I lost the washer that goes in between the cam gear and the case cover.
Is it a issue becuase the motor turns freely.
without that washer you will have slop on the cam gear. it will cause irregular wear on the cam lobe and lifters.
Mr. P!! How the heck do I get this dang piston out!?! Did you have to completely disassemble the case to get it? I really don't wanna buy a new engine for the sake of a bad ring 🤯. If I can get to the piston easier than tearing it apart please let me know 🥹!?!
Yeah you have to take the whole engine apart. It comes apart in 3 peices and has to be reassembled with rvt sealant. It's a good little engine but it's a weird design.
How fast have you got that motor too go ?
With the gearing of my friction drive at max rpm I can do 37 mph and 25 up hills. I'm eliminating the friction drive and converting a moped cvt to it.
@@mrpartridge8765 badass keep us posted !
@@jonnypiper5378 absolutely 💯
I have a compression problem
i just saw where you mentioned a tear down video. i dont think anyone cares how much you know, the fact that you can tear and down and put it back running is enough
That porting .. YUCK
LOOKS counterproductive
I know it wasn't the greatest lol. The bits kept getting clogged with aluminum and wouldn't cut cleanly. I just got done with some clean up and general maintenance on it including cleaning up the ports with better bits.
@@mrpartridge8765 The flow should be atrocious on the intake . Looks like it got away from you REPEATEDLY or you had a bad time matching the perimeters to a 'custom' intake?
I'd recommend a blunt rounded end drill bit as a flash remover until you get the hang of the carbide finesse, not near as aggressive as long as you're steady...
If the 'bits' you speak of are stones ...
Even talc powder wont keep them from loading up with aluminum.
Most of those little engines run pretty damn good out of the box, just correcting for any obvious irregularities
Please disregard the snark as I'm a poorly funded weld/fabricator and have learned from a LOT of experiments/mistakes.
Persistence is KEY
@@charlesangell_bulmtl the dremel I was using at the time had a bad bearing causing the bit to wobble and jump and the bit I was using was a carbide cutter. I was matching it to my intake that is round. I have better tools and more experience since I did that video.