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Shimano PD-M324 Pedal Overhaul - Clean/Lube/Install New Bearings
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- čas přidán 20. 04. 2017
- A viewer asked if I had a video on how to overhaul Shimano PD M324 combination clipless/clip pedals (SPD/platform). I didn't have a video, but I did have a pair of the pedals lying around. So I shot a video servicing the pedals, taking them apart, cleaning and lubing them and putting them back together with new 3/32" ball bearings.
The tool I used in the video is a Shimano TL-PD33 PD-M324 Cone Tool Set:
www.amazon.com...
Here is a techsheet for the pedal:
bike.shimano.co...
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Tool I made: cut a thin piece of metal sheet about 1"x1" and formed it half way around the racer. Put racer down the spindle then inserted tool between racer and casing, tension with finger and racer is wedged from moving. Normal socket fits. You can try making this tool and see if it fits BEFORE taking everything apart. Thanks RJ for this "advance warning".
RJ I really appreciate the time it takes you to help other cyclists and even bike mechanics. During #uklockdown I am servicing a lot of well-used components on bicycles and I find gaps in my knowledge crop-up occasionally on the specialist knowledge/know-how required, particularly in relation to maintenance or problem solving on (proprietary designs) like this pedal example, work which is usually the exclusive domain of bicycle mechanics in local bike shops. Thank you for sharing your learning-by-doing online!
Great video. I've had issues with pedal cones in the past too. Now we need an RJ video showing us all how to MAKE THE TOOL! :)
Thank you for the video! I actually just purchased a pair of these. One thing I've learned through overhauling headsets and bottom brackets, is to leave just a little play in the spindle before locking everything up, because of compression caused by the nuts being tightened down. Which is exactly what you ran into! :-} Thanks again!
Hi there RJ. I love the videos, the commentaries, the straightforwardness you offer. I'm not sure if I requested this before (Shimano Brifter repair??)... but... If there is ever a situation where a 'special tool' is required to finish the job please post a note or make a comment at the beginning of the video mentioning that..... I've found myself 90% done with a job only to learn that I don't have Shimano Tool A-1B2C3 or Park Tool NoBSQtPi... Just in case we get ahead of ourselves. Otherwise, I await your post every time. Mike from Toronto.
I have used these pedals for years on my touring bike,they are tough and very durable.
Great to see the pedal tool in action,I`ve just used a dab of Loctite on the cone and lock nut when rebuilding the pedals in the past without issue.
For jobs like this, I find that cheap roasting trays are very handy, they help catch any stray bearings as they fall out.
I was kinda hoping you did it without the special tool 🤣🤣
Thanks - your videos are the first ones I look for when I need to do bike stuff- and you have them- clear and understandable-
Thanks for the video. I am reluctant to buy the tool, as I thought that the pedals would wear out before I needed a tool. The first set lasted about 75k kms, the 2nd and 3rd set about 15k kms, and I'm now on my 4th set. In the end, it would have been cheaper to rebuild, but I really thought pedals would last longer than that.
RJ I originally tried this without the Shimano tool TL-PD33 and found it impossible, but once I had the tool I found it fairly straight fwd thanks to your video. The only reason I am writing (apart from to thank you for posting this) is to suggest something as an alternative to loading the 14 bearings into the long hole. Instead I stacked the 14 bearings on the edge of the red plastic sleeve using grease to hold them in place and this worked well. Even though I managed to get the tension right using the Shimano tool, the pedal didn’t feel as smooth as the other, but the cone had pitting so I think that’s the best result I could have hoped for! Thank you for another useful video!
Hey RJ, some time ago I overhauled my wellgo cheapo pedal (nylon body with metal cage, like these Shimanos but without the SPD part) and between the locknut and the cone there was a washer with a notch that fitted into a groove on the axle so it couldn't spin. So I managed to tight the locknut without using any specific tools. Cheap but well thought
Yep, those have a key washer. These don't. If you have the tool, it is actually easier to get them accurately adjust though.
Flat blade srewdriver pushed down the side of the cone, and then turn the spindle. Works every time for me. Nice tool though, and another good vid RJ
I have doe that too. This one might be a little tight for that though.
Chris Priest I pushed a small flat-bladed screwdriver down to a cone side. Then I rotated the lock nut using needle nosed vise-grips. I took me a lot of tries but I think I got the right adjustment. I'll know a year from now lol. The best thing about watching rjthebikeguy is that I ordererd a ball bearings assortment a while ago for my stock and had what I needed for this job.
RJ The Bike Guy
great videos, enjoy your work. 1. please hold the parts still when describing them, you figetit allot when describing the parts. 2. you would think the manufacturer would design a step in bearing race nut to the housihg, it stops automatically at the correct bearing operating demension. lock down the bearing race, then the lock nut done! 3. grease ports could be done easily with grub screws to seal out the access port. 4. could you not just remove the seal cap and add 30 or 50 weight oil to relub bearings?
The TL-PD33 takes a 7mm allen key in the top. This is a rarer size but worth getting for the job. This size key is also used for the caliper slider pins on some German cars, so you may have one in your "car" toolbox.
The inner bearings looks to be pretty well sealed, much better that the cheaper pedals i service.
I will still argue that you were lucky that all 4 the bolts of the surrounding cover got free without damage.
thanks for making this vid RJ. I didnt realize the red sleeve was removable. Now time for me to overhaul these pedals, but without the expensive tool
You need a special very expensive little tool - Shimano TL-PD33, and it works. The bearings on the inside can also be build around the shaft using good grease and the shaft [with bearing cluster] slid down.
Another great video RJ. I have a set of these pedals brand new in the box which I bought many years ago but never used. I think I will install them now. I looked at the cost of the special tool and it exceeds the cost of a new set of pedals!
All your videos are superb.Love them - used to do maintenance on my bikes years ago !
Was never as skillful as you though !
RJ's little grease gun makes cameo appearances in every video at one point or another! :)
Just to note, the two screws that hold the cleats onto the pedal - they are actually JIS screws. Don't try and get them off with a Phillips screwdriver, you'll round off the heads. The third screw looks like a Phillips, because reasons...
Great video, but is just unfortunate that the special tool + the new balls cost the same as a new set of the same pedals.
my m324 really have play in both their axles... i dont know what i did caused this, but this video does help!
I've made a tool like this myself using old socket wrench (11mm and 8mm in my case for shimano m323 pedals) and grinding them down on a lathe to size, in order to fit in the groove of the pedal and so that smaller one fits inside the big one by drilling a hole in the 11mm socket. I filed down opposite sides of the bigger socket so it would accommodate a 13mm open end wrench. And voila, i got a 30+ dollar tool for free. Pardon my spelling, english isn't my native.
Most people don't have a metal lathe. I don't.
I dont have one either. I payed a guy that has one. Cost me like 1 dollar. It was 3 minutes of work.
@@bikebeebeebike711 Most machinists would charge a lot more than that.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I guess you are right. That's the up side of living in Serbia. Low prices on stuff like that. I guess you could do it with a cord drill a bench drill or something similar, and a metal file. But the socket would have to be some Chinese brand low quality one so you could actually file it.
Thank you so much- I have these same peddles on my mountain bike -I'm learning a lot my peedles i added the snap on reflectors
I have no idea how to tighten the locknut without this tool.
AH! I do this regularly to my pedals. I just use a screw driver to adjust the cone, instead of the TL-PD33. It's time consuming, but feasable.
this is why I like cartridge bearings in pedals, way less tricky!
Beauty! They look brand new!
I finally got my pedal off the crank. Don't mess with the allen bolt, just use a 15mm spanner on the other side, I've no idea why there is even a hex hole on it, you can't physically apply enough torque via a hex key... Being a noob, that stupid design misled me into thinking the pedal was somehow bolted onto the crank rather than just screwed in.
I wasn't expecting to have to replace the bearings but on both pedals the rubber axle seals had perished, so water ingress had rusted all the bearings on the inner side. A box of 100 3/32 bearings is on the way. It's probably worth checking and/or replacing the seals if you are doing this too, spare seals are available on eBay
Just to confirm your findings, I also had 14 bearings on one side and 17 on the other.
I managed to melt that red tube but after a trial reassembly it doesn't seem to make much difference if it's not there. I'll try and bodge a suitable 15mm OD tube just in case.
That specialised nut setup tool you showed is twice as expensive as a brand new set of M324 pedals. Level 200 IQ thinking from Shimano there...
It would have been nice to see you attempt it on the other pedal without the special tool. I would probably use the lock nut to try and pre-load the bearings (rely on friction between it and the cone) and then jam a flat blade screwdriver in between the cone and housing and tighten the lock nut.
I have done it, and it is a pain and time consuming...
I always wondered if a tool like that existed. But $55! I think I'll just buy a new set of pedals. Ha!
You can find it cheaper. Maybe find a used on on eBay.
Until you have to service 40 spin bikes at a gym...then you'll want this tool!
u can make yourself one by buing cheap sockets
get yourself a tubular socket the size of the cone, and cut it dow to an approriate lenght, inside of it put a 3mm cheap smaller one, cheap has to do with the thickness of the walls... you need max 1mm thick walls or it will not work (cone and nut go with a 3 mm size difference)
had to do it for my old deore mt60 group wich requires a tl-pd 63
got a 11mm tubular socket, cut it down to an appropriate lenght, and trough it, i iserted a crappy 8mm tubular socket
got everything out of a flea market for about 4 euros, works like a charm
p.s
for the inner one u can also look for thin walled nut drivers, just cut/remove the handle
Its enough easy to do same without special tool
Nice channel carnal I lern how to fix my bikes.
The "special" tool set from Shimano costs more than the pedals. I would suggest either using some standard tools (as the author of the video stated it might be possible (it is) but will probably take longer) or buying pedals of higher quality and price that justify buying such expensive tools.
I have pedals like these, they are indestructible!
I had them too, they are definitely destructible. :(
Well, then you're fat lol jk
First issue is to slacken those 4 hex-screws , if the bike was driven in wintertime this can be a challenge on its own. I
Excellent video. Thanks
Thanks for that, although I wish I knew beforehand that there was a pointless bit of red nylon inside the pedal, before trying to loosen the crank bolt with heat...
I found ya when I searched for mesa runner. I got the "women's style" tonight for $15. has mile meter thing on front wheel, if correct then practically new bike but I don't trust china assembly to do proper grease job & might look into higher quality bearings too. liked your editing on that vid just not as detailed on things like what tools and sizes ya used, not bitching but I'm newbie and could have used all the detail like ya do in this vid for my dissembling and reassembly of the mesa. confident I'll get r done anyway and looking forward to watching more of your vids as I have subbed
I have detailed videos on all the stuff. Nothing on the Mesa Runner was unique.
Very helpful. I don't have that tool - I've been using another, much more fiddly technique to get that job done over the years. But now that I know the tool part number, my tool box will have a new tool soon. XD
The TL-PD33 is here. There is also the TL-PD63 which works on other pedals.
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00VVVAQGA/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
is this a good pedals for road bike? its looks small. i want to add toe clips
Lots of people like these. I ride clipless myself.
RJ Bike Guy: so using the tweezers and a stick I managed to cure cancer...
Helpful video mate nice one 🙂👍🏻
That is specially interesting for the MTB bikers. I mean the true bikers capable to make the all cleaning including pedal mecanismes. ( Pascal from FRANCE)
Is there any way to replace the cup and cone from this pedal i have a old pair of this exact Pedal but when i try yo install new ball bearings it falls out while riding and sometimes completely gets stuck and stops spinning
What would you do if the bearing seals are cracked?
I have tried to service these pedals in the past. I got lucky and managed to get the special tool for about £10. The problem I had was that the pedals would end up binding, do you think that was due to having the cone to tight?
Probably. You need to find a place between having little to no play, and moving smoothly. Loosening the cone just an 1/8th turn can make a difference.
Cheers. I will try that, I have a bit more experience compared to back when I tried.
Thanks for all the great videos.
I finally got around to solving the problem with my adjustment of these pedals. I decided to have another go and again I tightened everything to the point of no play. Yet again the bearings were binding and being popped out of the race. On closer inspection I noticed that the cone and locknut were rotating elliptically in the pedal body, I presume that the axle is bent. Therefore I suspect that there is not a way of adjusting them without any play?
I have packed them with grease and tightened them with play, I'm sure they will function ok. I did not try new bearings as there was no race wear and the bearings looked fine.
I must have a heavy pedalling style.
Great demonstration..
Nice just the pedals i bought on ebay and they need an overhaul!
haha cool, I have M324's on my utility e-bike. I've overhauled almost all my other pedals since watching your other pedal overhaul videos (A530's, no-name dual-sided SPD's, some cheap-o Wellgo plastic platforms), but haven't done anything with my M324's yet. Although at this point they probably don't need any work. They only have maybe 1K miles on them, as compared to my A530's which have closer to 12,000 miles on them.
And now I hope I never have to service mine. Holy smokes that thin-wall socket set costs anywhere from $50-$70!
If you are patient and shop around, you can maybe find one cheaper or used on ebay.
Thanks, I have learned a lot about maintaining, upgrading and improving my 1984 Austro-Daimler bike from your videos. I have these same pedals. Just an observation... You counted 14 ball bearings. I paused the video and also counted 14. Plus, there appeared to be one additional ball bearing stuck to the end of the Park pin tool you used to remove the red plastic sleeve. Were there 14 or 15 ball bearings inside the pedal? Wonder what the other pedal bearing count will be.
according to the technical illustration of the pedal, there is 17 balls on one side and 14 on the other: bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/PD/EV-PD-M324-1972A_v1_m56577569830608609.pdf
Thank you! I have been scratching my head on this. When I inserted the 14 bearings, I had a continuous ring of 14 bearings. No room for more. And it seemed to be a full ring of 17 on the other side as well. Maybe that was just a bit of dirt on the pin spanner?
omg that locknut tool is expensive... like 75 dollar? is it a 7mm socket and a 10mm socket?
you are a treasure. thanks
Do you know if you can overhaul the older design Shimano downhill pedals -- can't remember the part # but they were the box style flats w/ pins? I always thought Shimano pedals weren't serviceable but this video proves me wrong (I have the same pedals and they too need an overhaul). The DH pedals have a hex bolt on the outside but because you can't remove the "box" like you did with these it looks like it would be a real pain to work with the bearings.
Any reason you didn't use a magnetic "pick-up" tool to remove the bearings? Mine will grab them all in one shot.
Mike Williams it's not a great idea to use a magnet to pick up the bearings because when you do that you're basically magnetising the ball bearings meaning they will attract little metal shavings causing wear a lot quicker.
you're over thinking it...
RatBoy - Well said. It's always a trade-off deciding if you want to magnetize the bearings.
Doesn't matter if you magnetise them if you throw them away and replace them with new balls
Vax Buster I was referring to if you were to reuse them if they're in good enough condition. Another problem with magnetising them is that they tend to stick to one another meaning they don't roll and instead just get pushed around on the bearing race instead of rolling which they're designed to do, also a reason why more grease isn't necessarily a good thing because the grease will stop them rolling also and instead they just slide around limiting a smooth action.
Bikes show up in the shop with one of these pedals loose or seized all the time. Rarely both fail. It is too time consuming to be cost effective to repack them in a shop. So the solution is too toss them and sell new pedals. I started saving them, and of course if the right fails on one set, left on another, you have a working shop rat pair. With the deep race, they are a pain to overhaul, and this is probably the only video available online showing how to rebuild this model pedal (Prove me wrong!). There is an impressive Japanese website showing how one very determined guy did it with his fabricated tools: blog.goo.ne.jp/longq/e/7428f03784090242336b43b4ea14b588
RJ's failing pedal turned, and had play. Most all we see have lots of play or are seized.With nicely crushed 3/32" bearings inside. With the combination bushing and bearing design, it should be a zero fail design. Probably a combination of the silly small bearings, and any contamination makes them prone to fail. Factory does not mess around with the cone lock nut setting, it is torqued and threads are peened. Even then they still fail. These pedals are not the lightest or cheapest on the market, they are heavy, but the design and dual-side functionality seems popular with aftermarket consumers. I have not seen these as OEM on any bikes on a shop floor (Prove me wrong!). People like them, and do want them replaced when they fail. So even if it might be a poor design, they keep selling, so Shimano will keep manufacturing. (All components will fail eventually.) I do wonder if a covered oil port, and regular oiling, (What! Nobody does that anymore. What is this a SA AW?) would make them last longer?
A shop doing work, vs working at home are different. It would be expensive to pay a mechanic to sit and rebuild a pedal. But a home mechanic can do it while sitting watching TV.
Why does this video matter? It shows anyone that wants re-build an M324 what is involved. Before if you were working in a shop and needed tech data, you would go to manufacturers tech sheets or Sutherlands. Now, shop rats go to their phones. Sheldon Brown basically created usable online Sutherlands style tech data. (He wrote a series of technical articles for Bicycling magazine. Back when enthusiasts mattered, and before manufacturer marketing forces took over the magazine. No more bad product reviews, or Shimano, Campagnolo, Suntour shootout reviews. Everything now fits a user niche.) Phones now also have all sorts of access to spoke length calculators, and wheel building information. www.sheldonbrown.com/spoke-length.html
This video will be getting many hits. Love the comments by the guy servicing gym cycling machines. I cannot imagine the piles of seized and crunched M324s they must acquire.
Yeah, I had one of these seize halfway into a century ride. Fortunately someone in a sag wagon had a spare. Now that I've taken it apart, it doesn't look like a very good design. Shimano makes other double-sided pedals, and I wish I had just bought a different pair in the first place.
Love those pedals. Using them on all my bikes. Would have loved to do this procedure on it. But Shimano is selling this tool at a very very high price.... Its just not worth it. I can get new pedals cheaper. That's so wrong. Just wanted to maintain my bike. Doesn't look that hard. Thks for the vid.
Any concerns with corrosion between bolts that hold cage onto to pedal body and the body itself? I'd probably stick a dab of grease on each one if they're not stainless steel.
Good video - I want my "better half" to look at using this pedal as her first foray into clipless of which she's terrified.
Many thanks for your vids - they very useful and clear.
If anything I would use maybe loctite blue.
Sir when I open d caps of shocks/fork there are screws inside of shocks how to open them can u make video for this
Where do you buy your 3/32 ball bearing
put the bearings on the outside in first then grease
Hi RJ - what kind of maintenance should be done to SPD section of the pedals ?- the part that the cleat clicks into? What should be lubed vs "loctited"? I'm almost sure you've covered this in some video, but can't find right now.
The mounting screws should be loctited when installed. Mostly just spray the moving parts with something tri-flow.
Do a new video on the trek 820
Are they compatible with the SM-SH56 cleats(multi-release)?
you could've just put the bearings and the plastic sleeve in the spindle first then shove it in the pedal i think youll have an easier time reassembling it
Maybe sound like a stupid question but it's possible to remove the automatic ciip of the pedal? I need normal flat pedals but I dont want to buy some dangerously cheap one I find everywhere. Thanks for help!
Just use the flat sides. I buy some flat ones that aren't dangerously cheap.
This would’ve been much more helpful if you would show us how to do it without the special tool, unless you’re a bike mechanic, you don’t have the tool.
Yeah, close to impossible without the tool.
good video
I didn't find 3/32 inch bearings at my local shops, can I use some bigger ones instead ?
No. Won't work. Try online. www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B015RX1MG0/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
RJ. How do you find a tool to tighten a 1960-1970 5 speed Schwinn bb? It has 3 slot s cut out of the knurled cap
Probably this: www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000C17KRI/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
Thank you very much!
Do they make tools like that for wheels?
You don;t need it for wheels.
can you make a v brake to disc brake conversion video?
Requires an entirely new frame and fork. May as well take a video of a disc bike and a non-disc bike.
lulz
You forgot new wheels.
Right, or at least new hubs and 99% chance different spoke length.
Maybe with one of those conversion kits that attaches itself to the frame and brake bosses? You still need wheels with disc hubs.
RJ. How do you measure the bearings? I know that with your experience you probably can tell by sight. I can't. Lol.
czcams.com/video/J2z2vWQx3p4/video.html
Or know what size the pedals take.
Good video, but it's clearly not sensible to do without the expensive specialized tools.
Can you make a tool like that? Diy tool.
If a tool exists, it can be made. The question is how easily and what tools you would need. Might be easier and cheaper to buy the tool. Not sure.
Can these pedals take a toe clip/cage? Thanks in advance.
Maybe, but what is the point? They are made to ride with either flats or clipless shoes. If you mounted toe cages, it negates the other side of the pedal, as the cages would be dragging on the ground if you tried to use the other side. Just get some vintage pedals with cages on them.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I was planning on using them for my indoor bike that is hooked up to my Omnium Portable Trainer...thanks.
@@peterchung2194 Get some cycling shoes with SPD cleats. Snap right into them.
it's a royal pain in the ass to get that jam nut tight without the special tool. you shove a small screwdriver in between the cone and the bore and use a very thin 10mm socket to tighten the jam nut. Shimano could have done the usual thing and put a slot in the threaded bit and put a washer that has a tab that grabs on the slot in between the jam nut and the cone, they probably did it the way they did to cut cost. I was almost tempted to dremmel a slot in mine.
I think it was done to make it smaller and lighter.
I'd just buy new pedals or take the end cap off and pack it full of grease. but interesting to see how it all goes together.
There's a Dualco needle that's about 4.5" long that'll screw right onto the Dualco grease gun which is tailor-made for things like this (you'd be able to squirt grease right onto the race inside the pedal). It's Amazon product code B001GSKTU6, called "Dualco 3.4" Needle Nozzle for LU6107" ($9).
I know. I just have never bought it. I haven't really had a need for it until now.
I bought mine when I bought the grease gun (I've never used the gun without it), imo it makes it much more useful.
A magnet screwdriver would have been easier to use to get the bearings out.
True, but then I would get a dozens of people telling me that it will magnetize the bearings and they will collect bits of metal. Then I would have to explain that I was replacing the bearings anyway, etc, etc.
روعه
Locktite red.
No! Blue at most!
😘👍🏻
⁽ حـﹻٰ۫ﹻۧـلـﹻٰ۫ﹻۧـوٰ୭ًًٌٍَُّ 🙀💗♩
You said there was 14 bearings for the inside. But I counted 14 and 1 next to you pin spanner tool! Look at your video czcams.com/video/n9D16t8WK00/video.html
When I put the 14 bearings in, there was no more room for another bearing.
Look at the other pile, only 16 there, but he counted 17 initially. So I think 17 and 14 is probably the correct number (31 total bearings).
62 total bearings. 31 bearings per side. That is 17 and 14.
bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/PD/EV-PD-M324-1972A_v1_m56577569830608609.pdf
Ugh, this a job I wanna avoid, fiddling with bearings like this is such a pain in the ass.
first
ใครเป็นคนพูด เสียงเป็นไซนัสรึไง ฟังแล้วขัดๆ หู เหมือนกินแล้วคงป่วย
Stop spinning around
This doesn't look worth the effort at all lmao