We Turbocharged Our Temu 10HP Diesel Go Kart
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- čas přidán 11. 09. 2024
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Go Power Sports: bit.ly/3QKyODE
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I have a few tips for using this engine. I have the same setup on an old garden tractor. The PCV valve is built into the valve cover. If you plug the hole to the intake, and add a fitting to reroute it before the turbo, it will help it work properly. Also, these engines have really high oil pressure. Mine tested at 90 psi with a leak at the test fitting. If you can limit the pressure to the turbo, it will be less likely to blow oil past the journal bearings into the turbo, or starve the crank bearings of oil. The journal bearings don't need much oil anyway, just enough to keep them wet. Shims for the injection pump are also available. I am running 0.1 mm less than stock. It does seem to make more power. I can mow once a month and cut grass up to my knees. I have been using this setup for 4 years and haven't had any problems yet.
They make turbo oil restrictors that go in the feed line to the turbo.
Journal bearing turbos do need pressurized oil since they ride on an oil film like a main bearing, ball bearing turbos can live with a much smaller amount of oil.
Most manufactures recommend 40 psi but I would check the oil pressure at the turbo with a tee fitting before installing a restrictor. The small oil feed my already be acting as a bit of a restrictor
edit: the oil drain line could also be a lot better with a larger 45 degree fitting on the turbo and a 1/2" id hose, at 16:07 it looks like it goes uphill before going down to the engine. Most smoke issues are caused by an improper drain back
@@theodorgiosan2570 those are not enough by themselves. I also had to run a oil cooler and a ball valve to adjust how much oil was going through the cooler to lower the pressure through the turbo
Have you played around with a boost controller to help regulate and dial in the pressure as well?
burnin oil sounds like free fuel bruvva
BEST WAY to explain how diesels and gas engines differ is this… gas engines are controlled by air, you cover the intake=less air&fuel=less energy pushing the engine around=less revs but same fuel:air ratio (approx). Diesel is controlled by fuel, you inject less fuel=less energy pushing the engine around=less revs. You WANT to run a diesel lean most of the time, where as a gas you nearly always want to run rich.
diesels always running at max VE, at idle it only needs enough extra heat to overcome pumping losses and friction, with no issues about ignition, as its the heat of compression causing it. diesel can always run super lean without ignition issues.
petrols running 20-30% VE at idle, with subsequent reduction of apparent compression ratios, and as compression goes down, more fuel is required for a given volume of air (richer) to ensure ignition from a tiny little spark...
If you did a log manifold for the intake instead, it will hold pressure and have more boost and it won’t pulse. Boosted boys did it to their turbo shopping cart. Also check the waist gate and make sure it’s not opening. Maybe you can clamp the diaphragm rod. Also convert the clutch to CVT. You will get more direct power. It’s probably slipping the whole time.
They did do a long manifold for the intake. but they should try everything else, especially clamping the waist down
I guess I meant to say like a barrel almost like an expansion chamber on a two stroke exhaust that way, the boost pressure can be stored in the chamber in between the piston strokes
exactly what i was thinking. Also getting some Bio-diesel will help with overall power.
You don't get much more direct drive than a straight chain.
@tomstech4390 yes in this instance. When the motor doesn't Rev high enough to lock up. Same reason you don't put a 3500 stall torque converter in a daily driver, you'll never get past the slippage and you'll just burn up the transmission 30x quicker
One thing I would look into is the crankcase vent on the engine. I believe you may be able to have more boost if you re-route it to atmosphere. Stock those engines have the crankcase vent build into the valve cover and have it ported into the intake (just checked on an engine I have laying around). It does have a build in sort of check valve in the valve cover but I can't imagine it is a perfect seal. Without blocking that off you are effectively pressurizing the crankcase. Tapping the hole in the head and plugging it while also adding a new vent should resolve this. I'd look into it.
weld the wastegate shut, that turbine housing is massive, you do not need it.
that air filter is also a huge restriction.
Lmao that airfilter is not no huge restriction, ive ran that same style on the same style of turbo on a diesel garden tractor i built a few years ago, would make over 30 psi of boost pulling through that little filter, the micron size is just stupid big and you can basically see sunlight through it
@@UnknownProductions0 exactly ! no wastegates on a diesel with a mechanical fuel pump, its so simple !
@@cs-gj3yf boost is not an indication of power, it’s an indication of restriction. If you ran open turbo (just for example) you would likely see a drop in boost but an increase in power.
@@Copharia a little sniff of nitrous is the only time other than a too small turbine housing is when a gate is needed.
@@UnknownProductions0 boost/pressure is a indication of torque.. if it was restrictive it wouldn’t make as much boost, that’s kindve common sense, less airflow to the turbo the less air the turbo will put out
To turbo a single cylinder, you need an accumulator between the turbo compressor outlet and the intake with a volume of about 2-3x the displacement of the engine. It'll smooth the pulsations, prevent compressor stall, and significantly improve your boost.
I feel you are forgetting about clutch wear too! I assume that clutch is getting cooked pretty hard especially with a diesel
Yah they get slippery af
I would like to see them put a torque converter setup on this.
I think they need to see if the engine has a fuel governor, there's a yt guy called robotcantina that does small diesel engine customizing that might give them some insight.
@@neo1231this yanmar clone does have a governor
@@neo1231Robot Cantina is AMAZING. I love that channel so much. It'd be cool to see a collab between the two, talk about opposite ways of doing things 🤣
If there is an adjustment nut on the turbo wastegate, crank it down a bit. If there isn't, cap that port and convert the turbo to a manual spring style wastegate actuator and adjust it until you've got that 6-8psi you talked about.
If you're running an NA vs turbo test, you can't take just the charge pipe off, you also need to remove the turbo because it's an exhaust restriction.
Doubtful, without the cold side compressing anything I’m sure the turbine isn’t a restriction free wheeling on a motor this small.
nobody cares
@@5uprnvaanything in the exhaust of an NA engine restricts flow and ultimately throttles the engine.
@@Marc_Wolfe so edgy... i bet you grow a neck beard
@@custommadeknives Looks like your bet paid off, peep his profile picture...
Fellas, another tip for you about the turbo is, it's limited to factory to 5 lbs of boost, that being said if you cut the waste gate rod and thread it, you can turn up the boost by making the waste gate open later. 15 lbs of boost on this engine is a ton of fun!
Oh man, putting the Bolt Go-Kart through the ringer. Great job boys!
you guys make the best parts
i absolutely love that frame! im a vw guy so the Harlequin colors really speak to me. but the design looks extremely solid!
@@ghomerhust yea
Make some more kits 😂 I want one
36:50 no wonder she is slower? you added an exhaust restriction in the form of a turbo :)
Yeah I can't believe these pro dudes believe they will make a diesel engine more powerful just by adding a turbo 😁
My theory is that is was slower because it takes some time to spin the turbo. It can be 1, 2 seconds, or few hundreds milliseconds. If you do short throttle bursts, you just lose power spining the turbo then not getting the power advantage because throttle is off by the time it would increase the power. So by driving it a bit differently I think he would have made a huge difference.
5psi out of this little diesel isn’t too shabby!
Build the Little Rascals garbage go-cart!
you should name it Gretta 🤣
This old girl making 5HP is pretty quick, but it needs to see double that, imagine how hard it would pull at 10 psi.
Great little project. Just a little tip for tig welding stainless steel tubing or pipe. If you want to avoid sugaring or oxidation of the inside of the weld which can cause turbulence and make the oxidized metal become FOD. To avoid this put a tube of purge gas into the tube while you weld. You will want to ensure that there is gas flow through the work piece but not so much that it will blow your weld out at the end. Use a small strip of tape at the far end of the pipe from the purge line, shielding gasses are heavier than air so ensure that the back purge is at the low side of the work piece. You can check to see if the pipe is fully purged by holding a lighter to the taped end and if it blows out the lighter the work piece is full of shielding gas.
Should shorten and open the exhaust up to flow more
Few things that might help you here. Colder slightly damp air will usually improve performance as the air will be more dense. Removing that shim on the pump would have slightly changed the timing by moving the pump closer to the cam it changes when it starts and ends the cycle. fuel will be controlled by an orifice like a jet on a carb. Get that governor out of there. I would be interested to see if an intercooler would improve things, Could place one Infront of the flywheel fan and get the air temp down a bit.
I miss Chuck 😢
Long live chuck
we miss chuck brotherman, we, RIP ☹️
Chuck ain't dead... just not on the channel. I miss him too.
@@tophermatic4528 I know lol
Why isn't he on the channel anumore?
Guys I've tried to contact you a couple of times on the CR500. Turn the choke knob either way to adjust the idle if you bring the idle up chances are it may start for you.
We tried
This would have been one of the basic first things they tried. They aren't clueless.
the thing you took out under the fuel tank is not a injector its a high pressure fuel pump for the injector on top of the cylinder by removing the shim you are playing with the fuel timing so its going to push fuel to the injector more early and a bit longer then is was at the factory and you should get a bit more horse power out of it
That’s what they said in the video
I'm not sure, if timing is affected by the in and out of the pump (adding, removing shims). Seems to me that this is more the total depth reached by the plunger in the pump cylinder, thus volume injected.
One would have to move the "pump" up or down on the engine casing to make the pump see the bump earlier or later in the camshaft revolution.
@@daszieher Removing the shim causes the pump to engage sooner, thus advancing the timing. Yes it does also stay engaged longer, giving it an overall longer duration. If the goal was to only advance the timing, the mounting holes would have to be slotted to allow for adjusting without removing shims. Same thing for retarding timing.
@@pgemmill of course, that makes sense. Although it is not a way to actually set injection timing, the timing change is just a side effect of the alteration.
I'm thinking the lobe on the cam would have to have a different profile if you wanted the same timing yet longer duration of fuel being added to the engine.
As this video shows us, the fuel pump is going from later contact less fuel to quicker and longer contact giving it more fuel. It needs to be same timing but a longer time in contact with the lobe of the cam. I say, slightly shave the lobe to have more of a plateau and remove shims so the fuel pump is closer to the lob of the cam.
No wastegate on a diesel. take off the vacum hose for the actuator and feel the difference. you said it yourself it cant boost more than the fuel its gettin :)
I think your dump pipe is a little bit on the restrictive side you might want to take it off or put a much wider one sort of funnel shape It should help out on the boost
Guys, those types of injection ‘pumps’ are SUPER simple in theory. Look up a linear diesel injection pump section diagram and it’ll show you how it all works. There’s even video’s how they work.
When you took that shim out it did look like the smoke went lighter in both color and amount, diesels love timing to a point, I also feel that a different clutch that would allow it to not lug as bad off the takeoff and get higher top speed would be very beneficial to it.
When he said handles like a rock, all I could think of was spongebob 😂 pioneers used to ride those babies for miles
They are both happier working side by side. 2 big kids living the dream. love it. build your own water wheel dyno.
37:49 that thing took off in 3-5 business days 😂😂😂
that turbo exhaust is way too small
They should do like an old-school tractor exhaust flap would look sick
If it's too big, it loses velocity.
@@RandyKopisNot really a problem with a turbo. You want minimum back pressure behind a turbo. Any pressure in the exhaust is a reduction in possible boost made.m
@@RandyKopisYou want no back pressure on a turbo setup to allow the turbo to spool up faster and spin faster. Builds boost faster and build more boost overall. Exhaust velocity goes out the window the moment the exhaust hits the turbine.
@@hunterdan2002 Oh, that makes sense.
Definitely love this. My favorite video still remains the military go kart and very much looking forward to further tuning on that thing!
you should name it Gretta 🤣
HOW DARE YOU 😮
Not sure it would matter but the plate you used to make exhaust eliminates the waste gate. You need a second hole drilled into it with a dump. This will only matter if you make to much boost. Love the builds/ channel hope this helps
Get a 10hp flathead Briggs and turbo that
Yeah, old school! I love those! They just look right on a vintage minibike.
Loving the hair Ike, very Anton Chigurh (in a good way). The smoke out of that engine is still a little greyish, that smacks of timing to my mind so I'd try dropping more shims possibly. With a turbo diesel you're aiming for pure black smoke timing-wise & then when that's sorted you can mess with metering/injector pressure to dial it back to a light haze under full boost for best power ;)
Y’all are correct. Counterintuitively, humid air has less density than dry air. Water has one oxygen atom and two hydrogen atoms, while Nitrogen and Oxygen exist as diatomic molecules in our atmosphere. N2 and O2 are both heavier than H2O (in its gaseous phase), so the more water in the air, the less air density, ergo, you make less power!
N2 and O2 are *less* dense than H2O, otherwise rain would fall upwards! I think what you’re trying to say is that humid air has less free oxygen in it, therefore less power
@@emmajacobs5575 I was imprecise…. I was thinking in terms water vapor as opposed to liquid water. Liquid water is definitely more dense than gaseous N2 and O2, hence rain falling.
In terms of molecular weights, H2O is around 18g/mol whereas N2 is heavier at 28g/mol and O2 is heavier still at ~32g/mol. My understanding is that molecular weight is proportional to the density of a gas, and when comparing H2O in its gaseous phase to N2 and O2, it’s the lightest molecule of the three. That’s why the average air density goes down when water vapor content goes up. Your conclusion is correct, there is less O2 in a given volume of atmosphere when the humidity is high; but, that is ultimately a function of the overall density of the atmosphere, and atmospheric density drops with increased water vapor content.
Hey boys a foot pedal control for your tig welder gives you maximum control over your amps when tig welding I think it will help you heaps with tig welding especially going from thicker material to thinner material 👍👍
Just saw the notification 🙋♂️, I'm glad to watch this new video even if it's 1:35 am here 😅😂
You need to put weights on the karts when John’s driving to even up the weight difference!
For longevity, I would put some type of resistor in the oil feed line, so the engines still has oil pressure
I suggest a torque converter and a larger dump pipe outlet size. The torque converter will keep it reving in the right range to build boost and that turbo dump pipe looks abit to restrictive. Also disconnect the waste gate actuator, it’ll never build
Enough boost to kill itself anyways
Need more fuel. Whether it needs a bigger injector or there's a way to adjust the pump, more fuel. But be careful, too much and you will have a runaway, which is bad juju when you have no way to disengage it from drive lol.
Don't be afraid of more fuel, there's nothing to foul. Just again, be mindful of a runaway. Increase fuel incrementally. You will know when you're getting too much when it starts to act like the throttle is hanging for a second. Right at that point, you're on the edge of a runaway. Dial it back a hair and let 'er eat.
Removing shims on the I/P also advances the spill timing slightly, depending on the tolerances of the engine build it may increase power slightly or it may decrease power slightly. Also try an intercooler to cool the intake charge. Cold air is denser than warm so for the same charge pressure you get a slight increase in the amount of air in the charge pipe.
I really miss charles. I know life happens and everyones trajectory in life changes, but for me he was what really made the channel fun to watch. He was in-between the autism spectrum of ike and jon. He was just the right amount of tism to be approachable.
Was he the skinny younger guy with the blonde hair?
Why’d he leave
Hey guys just wanted to suggest something that might help build boost. I suggest trying to mount the turbo directly to the exhaust port just make an adapter plate if needed. What I’m thinking this will help is making the turbo spool faster allowing for more potential boost and more consistency. My thought process behind this is hot air moves faster than cool air the small header is allowing the air to cool off a bit before reaching the turbo which means it’s not spinning the turbine part of the turbo as fast as it could spin. I came up with this idea based on the new corvette zr1’s header to turbo manifold and the way it builds boost and spools so quickly I would also maybe see if the waste gate is opening it might be a good idea to put in a bigger spring to keep it from opening and bleeding boost.
When you remove the shim it both advances the injector timing and increases the duration the injector is open
Taking shims away adds timing. There is a screw at bottom of the throttle with tamper proof cap on it. Thats how you give it more fuel or less fuel. I’m getting 12 psi on my garden tractor. Thats pulling a sled behind me. So have good load. Good luck boys!
Im ready for Mini Mayhem!!
An intercooler would work wonders. It would help with smoke, power, heat, and longevity
I would also try a bigger inlet size on the turbo.
That frame looks like a Google bike.
I was going to say a carnival ride, but that's even better!
You need to make a t-shirt with this cart on it rolling a bunch of coal with the words real big and exclamation points it's chooochin!
hell yeah brother!
Wrong channel that's cleeter lol
Oh yeah bring back the Military 4cyl
motor that's the one that should get a Turbo a bit bigger than what you're working with currently
26:51 it’s possible that may work if it’s a mechanical injection because you need more fuel, and the only way to have more fuel is to increase fuel pressure or to open the injector further, but how far can you open the injector before you destroy it that would be the question you don’t need it to be open longer duration it just needs to open the flow more. What kind of pump is feeding the injector that’s where I would be looking at right now you’re just boosting air pressure. The engine will never run faster without more fuel.
Be best if you bypass the governor for direct control of fuelling because it will back off the fuel at high rpm, on these types of engines you won't kill it with rpm.
Hay Guys great video it was nice to see you back working on the diesel again and the reason i think it`s slower even na is that the exhaust pipe off the turbo is way to small and it`s choking the diesel and not letting it breathe properly as diesels move a lot of air and maybe then your see some more BOOST 👍😃
This is a low revving 418cc engine. Totally incorrect to say the exhaust pipe is too small. It's not even remotely too small for how little air it's moving. Incorrect information just hinders people.
High revving 400cc street bikes are shifting vastly more air than this and have similar diameter, if not smaller, exhaust pipes. See ninja 400, ktm 390, r3 factory pipes.
@@SportbikerNZ Those bikes don't have turbos.
I believe it's increasing the amount of fuel delivered and the timing. I believe you get more fuel because it's opening the valve sooner and leaving it open longer, does your lengthening the amount of time that it delivers fuel so you are changing the timing and the amount of fuel delivered
Needs a CVT to hold it in the sweet spot.
Na. Watch there old diesel with a cvt from years ago..so much slower. We have 2 karts same 16hp motor. One centrifigal, one cvt. The centrifugal smashes the cvt...and the cvt always breakin belts
nah. All they need to do is make that clutch grab at a lower RPM because the take off is abysmal
@@dieselgeezer18 way to steal my nah thunder bruz
Now add propane injection and have some fun. When your fun slows down add some nitrous on top of the propane and have a real good time. *Full face helmet and fire resistant suit required.
we're here....
i brought beer….
"It's the Lotus of Go-karts" - Soooooo, er, 'Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious' then? :P
The exhaust is a lil on the small size. Go up to like 2 inch and let it breath
They need to make a be
That exhaust is more than enough for a low revving 418cc diesel. Not even close to being too small.
16:00 flashback to childhood. I knew immediately what that sound meant when the chain came off 😆
Check the exhaust side befor the turbo for leaks also. Leaks in the exhaust befor the turbo can cause lower boost numbers also
looks great guys! Here's my take on this build. if you could put heavier springs/heavier duty clutch on it so that the diesel can utilize its low end torque better, it will definitely get better times on the grand prix and a better hole shot. i feel that the only thing limiting this kart right now is getting it rolling from a dead start
Hell yeah 😎 If you want some tips for tuning diesels. Opposite of petrols. Fuel kills a diesel, not air. You want to be medest with fuel (smoke means rich) rich is bad. As for air, all of it 😎 Take the line off the turbo wastegate and control boost with fuel. Very common with trucks
Ditch that exhaust and just let it run straight out the back of the turbo.. Diesels love to breathe.
I'd try a torque converter setup. Keep the rpms up a bit higher to keep it in the boost. Also, I know some small diesels use a decompression system for governing. It's a really old design, but Chinese engines are known for using outdated setups.
I vote for that diesel in the classic Yellow Fat Tire from way back. I even think Old Yellow would do good with a built engine and a slick on it at the drag strip-or maybe build one like it just for the track.
dude looks like Steve Butabi played by Will Ferrell in the movie “A Night At The Roxbury” without his hat on haha I mean that with all due respect
Where did chuck go ❤
Nice work guys. This time I prepare go-kart video.
Can yall try to do more performance stuff on the diesel? Maybe see if you guys can get it to rev higher. Valve springs? Torque converter?
Thank you finally someone turned a small diesel engine into a turbo diesel. All I have been asking for cause I totally want to do this after I build the middle child's go kart out of a junk 50 cc fourwheeler. Next we need it to be a twin compound turbo setup.
Finally the video we’ve all been waiting for
Find a way to inject more diesel into the motor will equal more exhaust pressure to the turbo turbine compressor
I recommend maxing out the exhaust size and pointing it down so water can't get in when parked. Removing any exhaust restriction will help spooling the turbo and increase boost as well. Restrict the oil to the turbo some and make sure the wastegate never opens.
If you want to get rid of those end of the puddle pinholes, roll off your pedal and terminate the arc on the very end of your weld. If you are tig welding with a button exclusively, you owe it to yourself to get/learn the pedal.
If they can adjust start/end current slope, there's no need for a pedal. Seeing as it looks like they've got the button in 4T mode, they should have a fairly advanced machine.
You guys should get a draggy for performance testing. They are way more accurate than a phone app. No prep/street drag racers use them to get accurate times/data on their runs since they dont get an actual times slip from the track. You get accurate 60ft times, 0-30, 0-60 and all the way up. I have one and love it. Its very consistant with my time slips at the track
‘Looks like it has 5k miles on it already’… no John… it’s just diesel man😂
I have a few of the 186F engines, cold start oil pressure can be in excess of 250psi! The Yanmar 129670-39600 Damper will help you regulate excess pressure.
Wow I wrote a really great nostalgic spirit animal type anecdote and compliment to you guys.. then I clicked the CarsandCameras emoji at the end, and a whole giant window popped up, and when I went back it was gone. Anyway, tldr High School plywood leaf blower hovercraft.
The clutch is probably slow to hook due to it being intended for a higher-revving gas engine. The big slow diesel wants more weights on the clutch. It's pretty amusing to see the speed build and build and build, like John said it just freight trains.
Also enjoyed seeing the face of experience, of a guy who has spent literally thousands of hours building and tuning go-karts on a familiar track. At 46:02 after swapping in a taller axle gear, John says, "You can hear it. It's not turning as many RPMS around these corners." As Ike pounds down the straightaway, thoughtful look: "I don't think he ran out of RPM. We might have overshot [the ideal gear ratio]."
Putting a turbo on any diesel is actually free power, love this video😊
You two are the latter day Wright Brothers! Ten thousand thumbs up. Thanks for your hard work. Must watch list for a long time.
Propane injection before the turbo. Add a one pound Coleman bottle with a small orifice and plumb it into the air filter. Also, add a shut-off valve for when it's at idle.
I'm amazed so few people have mentioned an intercooler! An intercooler cools down the hot compressed air, making it even more dense, and results in more power. I feel like it would help significantly, not to mention possibly a CVT
i feel like this channel is going to culminate to the ultimate project where you take one of your turbo'd creations and put it in a small vehicle like a ford fiesta or a pontiac firefly and run on the road with it!
You guy's now have your next youtuber collaboration race on carsncamera circuit....food for thought. I would watch. All have to have the build break repeat's bolt together frames and turbo diesel engines and have a 24hr endurance race.....😮
A valve stem in a PVC cap rad-hosed to the turbo inlet with a squirt bottle of soapy water is great to check for leaks with everything assembled.
And stainless always draws towards the cold spots on the pipe so weld it out in quarters and keep your heat even on all 4 sides of the pipe if your heat marks are wider on one part of the weld your hotter on that side
You need a plenum on both sides of the engine. Intake and exhaust. They should both be ~10x engine displacement, and the exhaust plenum should be insulated. There have been a few white papers written about turbocharging single-cylinder engines, and that is critical to making good use of the boost. It's a bit laggy, of course, but gives MUCH more power.
Diesel likes a 1-2% gasoline additive. Try that for a cheap option, or some Stanadyne Performance formula. HP boost guaranteed.
Okay, here's a little secret to get rid of turbo ag, what you need to do is get a compressed tank of air and feed a line to your exhaust side of the turbo to help spull it up faster at low
R.P.M's
At least you don’t have to spray for mosquitoes now with that smoker running around 😂
See the tire spin after the turbo spools? Turbo diesels like load. That gearing was the correct solution. It needs to bog to make smoke, to spin the turbo, to get the air it needs to make power. Then you stall the clutch at the starting line to spool the turbo up!
The clutch!!! Probably wore it out to the heavens with all that torque!
i have a tip for more power now that you guys turboed it. You can turn the fuel up with the load screw. it is right next to your oil line ports near the throttle linkages it will be a long stud with a nut loosen the nut and turn the screw out by hand about 2-3 turns then tighten the nut. that will increase fuel under load
I think a torque converter (if possible) would help this one a lot, it would keep the motor in the powerband and making boost full time. awesome project!
That 4 cylinder engine needs to be in one of the midget cars for road use!!!!
It would also help running a larger bore exit to the exhaust i think sure looks and sounds cooler
Man if yall figure out of to get a torque converter on that thing it would be sick. Also that turbo has that wastegate on it. If you take that line off and plug it it would make way more boost. Or get a manual boost controller and turn the boost up! Heck just clamp the gate shut lol. The backhousing is plenty big. It won’t make too much boost. You should also make the exhaust pipe bigger. Turbos don’t like back pressure. All things considered that’s a sweet powerplant lol
that wastegate is set for 13 psi of boost, no issue with it, the exhaust pipe doesnt matter since the turbine wheel is only 1 inch diameter, the exhaust pipe running from the head to the turbo inlet is too big, its losing all its velocity.
I would love to see a 30HP rebuild with a push to see 10-15lbs on the turbo!
I just love the vibe you both got together. Really appreciate it!
Diesel need more fuel for boost , then make sure the gate is locked down . Diesel will keep making power as long as you add fuel . The more fuel more boost ,in turn power😊