Straight to the point, love it. Too many mechanically naive people are taken advantage of with these types of distressing noises. You represent a dying breed of mechanics with integrety. regards, Impressed Australian sparky.
These Ford Escape videos are awesome! My wife and I will be shopping the used market starting next week and I have been researching known issues. Your content is much appreciated.
2003 Focus with the 2.3L Duratec motor, 230,000 miles and still running strong! I change the oil every 5,000 miles without fail. Flushing the coolant and replacing the hoses is important too. Just show your motor some love!
Mine sounds like that. Has since I bought it with 45k miles. I’m at 203 now and it runs absolutely fine. My mechanic told me these are known to be noisy but reliable engines
Thank you for doing this video. My 2015 Ford Edge has started making this noise. And you're right, it gets louder as the engine heats up, but I don't hear it as I'm driving down the road. What is a fair cost to have this fixed?
I have a 2007 Ford Fusion with this engine...I had 79k miles on it and after a long trip this ended up happening to my vehicle. I am still driving it as of May 2020. I have the exact sound and symptoms in the exact location you are showing here. I was pissed and still owed money on the car loan. A pro mechanic found a little metal in the oil pan and suggested I replace the engine. I have kids and family and needed a reliable car so I just let it sit for a year. I then decided to just have it as a "in town" car and decided to put Mobile 1 fully-synthetic...and just keep the RPMS under 4,000k. I've babied the car and just used it casually since. I'm on my 3rd old change (today) and now have 98,000 mils on it...so I've driven it almost 20,000 miles and the only issue since then is a slight power steering leak. I hope this helps anyone in a pinch to see that you can actually drive your car carefully but reliably...but I would say in this situation the BEST synthetic oil should be used no matter what...and I use MOBILE 1! The shit works
Thanks for the video. I have a twist to my experience with this noise. The engine has 56,000 miles on it, a 2012 Escape 2.5 engine. The oil was changed a month before this happened. 5w20 oil. One day, out of nowhere this noise begins. It sounded like it was coming from between cylinders 1 and 2 on the Left side, but also resonated on the left side of the front frame clip. Took it to the dealer (just as a starting point), it was just out of warranty. They checked it and said it was the idler pulley rubbing against the frame, replaced it, a little over $130.00. I have seen this happen on corvettes and mentioned that to my wife before we took it in, but I was surprised that this was the case. It sounded Exactly like your video. Is there anyway the fooled me on thi? I just find it hard to believe I was this lucky. Also a second question, why isa the engine valve train SO noisey? Thanks for your effort to help us .
You just saved me a whole lot of worry, first time owning a 2L engine, and I thought the noise coming out of the engine was sign of some horrible problem. Turns out, they're supposed to make that sound (2:20), live and learn I guess.
That is why Ford Installed those rubber engine covers in the newer Duratec 2.3 and 2.5 engines. The rubber insulator dampens the noise. I've seen some people simply buy a kit that installs an insulator engine cover on the older Duratec engines.
Great video. Best car I ever owned was a 2010 Ford Fusion SE, 2.5L (same engine as in this video), got me to 415,000km before the torque converter went. Tried my luck now with a 2015 Ford Escape SE, same 2.5L engine and it’s been a lemon since day 1. Purchased it 5 months ago.
If THAT is what Ford calls their "BEST", THEN RUN!!!!!! RUN!!!!!! TO GET A QUIET RUNNING IMPORT!!!!!! GROWING SICK, SICK, SICK of my POOR quality FORD-- ALL YEARS------- that their QA PASSES OFF, for GOOD!!! GOOD RIDDANCE!!!
I'm freaked a bit. I have a 2010 Fusion with the 2.5L. That said, luckily I don't have this issue. Oil and coolant changes are very important then as a preventative! Thanks again, Brian for educating us.
DJR5280 Honda was having a similar problem on their 08 civics, IIRC. Block could crack due to casting defects (too thin around the coolant passages near the exhaust manifold). They extended the warranty on the engine for 10 years, 100,000 mi. Regular oil/coolant changes won't hurt.
Thank you for the video, I have enjoyed many of them. I’m looking into purchasing a 2015 Ford Fusion with the 2.5L. I’ve read these are very reliable engines. What are your thoughts? Other things I need to look for. Thank you sir
Exactly what mine sounds like in my 09 mazda6. Same exact thing on start up. Been trying to figure out for awhile! No coolant loss. Guess I’ll keep driving it till it blows. Lol. Thanks for the vid. You’re stuff is always helpful.
I wanted to thank you for this vid. I just put in a 2012 fusion engine with 27K in my Milan and it was making this noise from the get go. The car runs 100% just noise drives me nuts. But I can live with it. You ended up saving me $520 because boneyard refunded my money and let me keep engine. THANKS!!!!
I had an interesting tapping noise like that which suddenly got really bad. It turned out to be that the flex plate was fractured all around the mounting bolts for the drive shaft. It came out in two jagged pieces!
@@keithtulloch5682 It came and went and got much worse. I was still able to crank it, so the alighment for the starter was maintained. I didn't know what was happening, so I tried setting the timing, used the wrong timing pin and broke a valve, bent some other valves and had to drop the oil pan to replace the piston head that was pierced by the broken valve! The noise remained after I solved my oops-generated engine problems, so I dropped the transmission and discovered the broken flex plate. It fell off when I approached the first mounting bolt. It was a jagged fracture around the array of bolts that secured it to the engine. The replacement Ford part seemed to have a stronger, perhaps more resilient, design.
I think it is also possible that the noise is coming from Vapor Canister Purge Valve.I listened to my engine cos has been getting same noise. This morning I took time and listened to it and then I realised it from the piece of device just behind the throttle body. It goes off and on cos it works with the electric plug attached to it which switches off and on automatically.
What do you recommend putting in the oil? Do you think like a Lucas oil or some brand to fix that? Hopefully you can answer my question. Appreciate you. Been watching your videos here for about six years. Thank you very much for your input on
I just recently changed my oil and used 1qt of Lucas oil stabilizer in place of one of the full synthetic quarts of oil. Engine runs much quieter now and smoother. Coolant isn’t disappearing thankfully.
2015 Escape 2.5L 82K miles just started making this noise-thought it was a lifter maybe but sounds pretty similar. (No coolant loss but power steering leak reported at last oil change.) thanks for the heads up!
Hey brother i have 09 ford escape 2.5l and i been having a problem with my engine it wont stop shaking a change all my engine mounts and tranny mounts spark plugs and even the purge valve and it wont go away it does it even more when i put it on drive do u know what maight be the issue ? Thanks love ur videos
I have the 2006 Escape v6 front-wheel-drive I change all the coils and plugs and it started knocking again this time I think it's bad news. Is the 3.0 V6 known for crack blocks.
This brings me back to an old car i had. I thought it was rod knock for the longest found out it was not after replacing bearings. Car lasted me another 70,000 mi before i sold it running. This may not be the case for everyone though.
I found out what the noise was on my fusion 2.3l. sounded almost like a rod knock but turns out it is the intake manifold butterfly valves we had a 2003 Mazda with the noise too it was the same thing. You can replace if it is a ford but Mazda is proud of their intakes. Better yet just drive it.
I noticed this noise in my 2010 Fusion SE 2.5L almost immediately after buying it with 65,000 kms. Knocking noise between cylinders 1 and 2 and only after warmed up, not when cold. I've put on 80,000km over 8 years since and haven't had any issues, no coolant losses, noise level hasn't changed. If it does lead to issues what does the proper repair entail, new block?
I have a 2012 fusion 2.5 with 30K. this winter it started ticking. had been using 10w30 oil then changed it to 5w20 but it still made the noise, louder when the engine it cold. sounded like a bad lifter. I pulled the valve cover and every thing looked normal other than I could see an air gap between lifter and cam lobe on several lifters so i figure if they are hydraulic they must pump up quick when the engine is started. I assume there are hyd lifters. The car has been great to this point and seems to run well. No coolant loss at all. If I remove the filler cap when running there seems to be a fair amount of blow by. I checked the hose from valve cover to the TB valve and that is clear. I thought crank case pressure was supposed to be below atmospheric using a pcv valve? I havnt had it looked at yet by my Ford dealer. your thoughts? If the block is cracked why would it make any noise?
Using 10w30 in a overhead cam engine that calls for 5-30 or 20 was your first problem. Don’t do that. And in the winter any engine that takes say 5w20 should be getting 0w20 in the cold months. Modern engines don’t have the clearances for thicker oil to get where it needs to go. And in the cold it’s even worse. You might’ve done some damage.
I have a 2001 Ford Focus SE that I have had for six years and I am having the same problem. My mechanic, after checking my plugs, distributor cap and rotor and all of my sensors, he said they were fine, but after a test drive, it started knocking . Plus, my "Check Engine" light would come on and stay on for about two days and go out. During that time that it was on, it ran good and even did for a short time when it went out, but there was the knocking after the test drive by my mechanic. My car is at my mechanic's garage as I speak. What could be the problem with that? Thanks.
Thanks for posting this video. you're getting me really worried now! I have an 06 Focus, 2.0 duratec engine, that just started making a weird engine noise. sounds like ticking noise. its not that loud, and probably I'm being fussy, but I've been driving my baby for the last five years and I know how she should sound. there is no engine code. noise is more pronounced when the engine is idling and warm. no loss of any oil or coolant though. and no over heating. any suggestions?
that makes sense i just bought a 2012 ford escape and i thought it sounded rough but i guess thats just the way they are supposed to run the is no knocking really or tapping except when you get down by the front tire on the drivers side and I'm wondering what it could be any answers to this would be awesome oh and i should state that they is still great power to it. thanks
I have a 2015 Transit connect with a 2.5 that I actually have a hotline contact out for right now. It came in with a P0304 and it only misfires on decel. Ruled out injectors, spark plugs, coils and injector/coil power and driver circuits. Manual compression showed same compression across all four cylinders, giver or take 2-3 PSI. The engine I'm dealing with seems to have this loud obnoxious tap to it so I'm curious if you have seen any misfires associated with this block cracking issue. Hotline wants me to perform a running compression test and look at the valvetrain if the running compression test is inconclusive.
Thanks for the great video. My Escape just began making this noise. It sounds a lot louder when the car is in low RPM or if I disconnect any of the coils. If I rev the engine up a little bit it stops. The car runs perfectly and I don't hear the noise while driving. What has to be done to fix the crack? Or how can it be muted?
My 2014 Ford Transit Conbect has the same symptoms as your vehicle but the noise is on the passenger side of the vehicle I thought it was the water pump and changed that and i cut the ac compressor belt the sound is still there......smh
I have that same noise on a 2012 Fusion, clack clack, louder behind the block, looking from above the heat shield, louder when hot, but how can I rule out piston slap, or rod knock. With my ear on a long screwdriver, I only hear the valves clicking nicely, so the bad sound does not come from the valve train. How can I rule out dangerous noises like rod knock?
When my mother was getting a car it was a toss up between a 2011 Malibu or fusion I am so glad she got the Malibu. The fusion seems like it was a lemon. Tons of transmission issues and now engine issues as well on the 2.5. I would say the Fusion has better driving dynamics and a better built interior than the bu
I own a 06 Mercury Mariner and it just happened to mine as of today. I have the 3.0L V6 engine. I just changed out my Camshaft Positioning Sensor and right after I did that, I noticed this noise. Do you think it would have to do anything with that? Please chime in if anyone would know. Thanks, in advance.
Ever hear a similar sound on Duratec 3.5L N/A engines found in the Fusion Sport/Edge/Taurus? Mine has a very slight tapping noise coming from the LH bank and is not rev dependant, stays the same sound regardless of RPM. Sounds similar to a cam phaser tap on a 5.4 triton.
I've been looking for info on this ticking went to my dealer and they said something about a comment you made about the #4valve tappets maybe not working???..Any thoughts on this and how I can go about checking/fixing my self??..and should I be driving it?....What makes me think it's what you posted in this video is when I start my truck in the morning and it's cold no noise when it heats up ticking like crazy?/
All I have to say is I love the escape it handles like a car and the i4 2.3 is a great motor with the power like as v6 very impressed I'm a Chevy guy but when I get behind the wheel of a escape the performance and reliability are very apparent
I had this problem on my 2012 focus. Loud ticking noise and yeah it was a dead give away because the coolant would drop quickly. Now i have a 2015 fusion with a 2.5 and it makes this noise but the coolant hasn't moved much since i first got the car. I currently have 13,900 miles.
My focus had a noise like this but it came from the intake and if I disconnect the vacuum line it went away and engine would sound smooth,sadly it doesn’t matter anymore as my car was totaled 😑
My 2011 Escape has started making this noise @80k miles. My selling dealer told me it was normal and will not fix it unless it starts loosing coolant. The noise seems to be coming from between 1 and 2.
I have this noise and while I don't notice the coolant being low I do notice it is making my oil milky. Dry Compression 190 across the board. With the closed coolant system is there a way to put in a head gasket/ block sealer?
I've got an 07 Focus 2.0L that intermittently makes a ticking noise once the engine is hot. Not enough for an "OMG what is that noise?!" Reaction but still, it's a tick I know shouldn't be there. She's got 185k and she's solid otherwise. The tranny and engine are great (besides that knock), I'd like to keep her around for a while yet. Where can I start for at home diagnostics before I take it to the shop? No check engine light on, not over heating, if there's a leak it's not noticeable (yet🤞🏻). I appreciate any advice.
I have the same car, check the imc runner flaps in the intake(also called tumbler flaps), they make noise when the get loose(very common). They will not always throw a code.
I have a 2000 Expedition that sounds just like this, was there this kind of problem with the 1st generation 5.4 Tritons? Someone suggested a VCT solenoid but I can't seem to find them on my engine.
+Justin Spencer No yours does not have a vct solenoid. You need to see which bank has the noise and then remove the valve cover to inspect the lash adjusters and rockers.
Good info...I have nearly 100k on my work supplied 2012 2.5L escape and several more at work that other guys drive with no issues yet. My wifes 2011 Escape Limited is also a 2.5 and we own it. Paid for so I'm hoping it doesn't develop this issue. Has 48K miles as of now. Is this just a manufacturing defect in the block? Doesn't seem like a maintenance neglect issue.
FordTechMakuloco Would it be possible to use a stop leak/coolant sealer to at least stop or slow the coolant leak? It sounds as if the crack is very small considering there is no noticeable performance loss. Also is it possible to diagnose this or notice anything using a compression/leakdown tester?
on the subject of noise when I hit a slight rise in roadway I get a rattle in the driver's side front suspension. on a 100k mile focus zx3..what is most suspect..bushing ware or shocks? great instruction and info. thanks. mike
I'm more inclined to believe that that a cylinder an intake valve is being incrimentally compromised by timing slip along the harmonic balancer. But maybe I'm just entertaining my own mythology. If the harmonic balancer slips along any of the internal surface radii then the iVCT components might be misinformed by the crankshaft position sensor .... if the iVCT components are not performing to specification ... If the valve stems grow toward interference as the engine heats up ... if the valves are thrown a bit more because of the degrading lash clearance collisions ... the possibility of interference seems a more likely source of tapping, even though I can't imagine it fully, than resonance from a crack leading into the water jacket.
Hi, thank you for your videos they're really helpful. I have an 02 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0. Today I was out driving and all of a sudden it cut off and all the lights lit up on the dash. I coasted into a parking lot and then looked under the hood. I found that the ignition coil pack's pigtail/harness had disconnected. I saw that it had two rubber gaskets(I think it's called). So I removed one and plugged it back in. I have no check engine lights or anything on but now when I go to take its slower, sluggish, I almost have to push gas pedal to ground and the engine makes a loud clack/knocking sound(hard to describe). It never ran like this before. Is there anything I can do to get it back to normal? Maybe unplug negative battery cables for 5 mins or something? Please help! TIA
i cant tell if mine is a rod knock or cracked block mines a ford fusion hyrbid the coolant consumption i cant see before the heatercore i believe its a heater control thing is broken or clogged so their is no coolant going to the heatercore to flow to engine likely damaging it not being driven currently really need help wish u were still commenting to help people
Quick question. I know ford recommend 5w20 for these engines. But can I run a 5w30? It has over 200K Im trying to slow down the oil consumption. Thanks!
Have they done anything to redesign the engine and fix the issue in newer years? I'm considering a Transit Connect but I really would prefer one with the 2.5, I don't want the 2.0 because It has less power and direct injection.
Mine has a similar sound but only on cold starts and when it’s fully warm up the engine is very quiet any idea what could be the problem or should I be worried ?
I have ford escape 2011 same sound several mechanics saw it and They said it’s from the motor while one said and is sure it’s flywheel so what’s your suggestions hope some one answer
Need help with my 17’ 3.5 eco boost. Sorry this isn’t related to the stuff in this video. Turbo rattle at high interstate highway speed. Ford says it’s the turbos and it’s normal and they won’t replace. Is there anything I can do? It sounds like it’s going to rattle and explode then it stops. Happens at about 78mph when holding speed, comes and goes.
Will C just worked on a fusion lady bought for $4000 at a unloyal used dealer. Diagnosed it and turned out a the rattling noise is a misfire and a bad valve. Didn’t overhear but must have been a beginning of a head leak.
Straight to the point, love it. Too many mechanically naive people are taken advantage of with these types of distressing noises. You represent a dying breed of mechanics with integrety.
regards,
Impressed Australian sparky.
These Ford Escape videos are awesome! My wife and I will be shopping the used market starting next week and I have been researching known issues. Your content is much appreciated.
2003 Focus with the 2.3L Duratec motor, 230,000 miles and still running strong! I change the oil every 5,000 miles without fail. Flushing the coolant and replacing the hoses is important too. Just show your motor some love!
Mine sounds like that. Has since I bought it with 45k miles. I’m at 203 now and it runs absolutely fine. My mechanic told me these are known to be noisy but reliable engines
Oh and I still get around 27mpg average mixed city and rural driving
Yep it's a DOHC 24 Valve 2.5L L4 they have a slight ticking noise. It's very European tractor like sounding. It's normal
Thank you for doing this video. My 2015 Ford Edge has started making this noise. And you're right, it gets louder as the engine heats up, but I don't hear it as I'm driving down the road. What is a fair cost to have this fixed?
I know it’s an old video but thanks for the information, greatly appreciated
I have a 2007 Ford Fusion with this engine...I had 79k miles on it and after a long trip this ended up happening to my vehicle. I am still driving it as of May 2020. I have the exact sound and symptoms in the exact location you are showing here. I was pissed and still owed money on the car loan. A pro mechanic found a little metal in the oil pan and suggested I replace the engine. I have kids and family and needed a reliable car so I just let it sit for a year. I then decided to just have it as a "in town" car and decided to put Mobile 1 fully-synthetic...and just keep the RPMS under 4,000k. I've babied the car and just used it casually since. I'm on my 3rd old change (today) and now have 98,000 mils on it...so I've driven it almost 20,000 miles and the only issue since then is a slight power steering leak. I hope this helps anyone in a pinch to see that you can actually drive your car carefully but reliably...but I would say in this situation the BEST synthetic oil should be used no matter what...and I use MOBILE 1! The shit works
Thanks for the video. I have a twist to my experience with this noise. The engine has 56,000 miles on it, a 2012 Escape 2.5 engine. The oil was changed a month before this happened. 5w20 oil. One day, out of nowhere this noise begins. It sounded like it was coming from between cylinders 1 and 2 on the Left side, but also resonated on the left side of the front frame clip. Took it to the dealer (just as a starting point), it was just out of warranty. They checked it and said it was the idler pulley rubbing against the frame, replaced it, a little over $130.00. I have seen this happen on corvettes and mentioned that to my wife before we took it in, but I was surprised that this was the case. It sounded Exactly like your video. Is there anyway the fooled me on thi? I just find it hard to believe I was this lucky. Also a second question, why isa the engine valve train SO noisey? Thanks for your effort to help us .
A good fix is to turn your radio louder 😆
Been trying to say that to my buddy lol
Hahah I’m having a problem with my car and it’s so loud it’s embarrassing. Now I’m just putting the volume up till it’s fixed
That’s what I did and it always works
Music loud but car on the road side
Even better one is to not own a Ford Escape
You just saved me a whole lot of worry, first time owning a 2L engine, and I thought the noise coming out of the engine was sign of some horrible problem. Turns out, they're supposed to make that sound (2:20), live and learn I guess.
Mines made the same noise for almost 70thousands miles lol
@@austinhall1998 same here , put in 100k so far and perfectly fine
That is why Ford Installed those rubber engine covers in the newer Duratec 2.3 and 2.5 engines. The rubber insulator dampens the noise. I've seen some people simply buy a kit that installs an insulator engine cover on the older Duratec engines.
Great video. Best car I ever owned was a 2010 Ford Fusion SE, 2.5L (same engine as in this video), got me to 415,000km before the torque converter went. Tried my luck now with a 2015 Ford Escape SE, same 2.5L engine and it’s been a lemon since day 1. Purchased it 5 months ago.
Im glad too hear this. Thanks man. I just got a 2010 se 6 speed manual fusion with 150.000 miles. 2.5 liter.
Damn, looking at a 2.5 L Escape now. What are some common problems?
Mazda is better. ford is made in Mexico junk
Toyota
Thank you for show us a good sound motor @ 2:33. Mine seems like a good one:)
If THAT is what Ford calls their "BEST", THEN RUN!!!!!! RUN!!!!!! TO GET A QUIET RUNNING IMPORT!!!!!! GROWING SICK, SICK, SICK of my POOR quality FORD-- ALL YEARS------- that their QA PASSES OFF, for GOOD!!! GOOD RIDDANCE!!!
I'm freaked a bit. I have a 2010 Fusion with the 2.5L. That said, luckily I don't have this issue. Oil and coolant changes are very important then as a preventative! Thanks again, Brian for educating us.
He said it's a manufacturing defect , maintenance will not prevent this issue.
DJR5280
Honda was having a similar problem on their 08 civics, IIRC. Block could crack due to casting defects (too thin around the coolant passages near the exhaust manifold). They extended the warranty on the engine for 10 years, 100,000 mi. Regular oil/coolant changes won't hurt.
ReclusiveMountainMan Ur fine don't let internet fear porn scare you.
Thank you for the video, I have enjoyed many of them. I’m looking into purchasing a 2015 Ford Fusion with the 2.5L. I’ve read these are very reliable engines. What are your thoughts? Other things I need to look for.
Thank you sir
I have the same vehicle & engine, 66K miles, no problem.
my 14 fusion had a similar noise and I changed the spark plugs and it went away
How much would cost to get this fixed?
replacing the engine about 2-2500 if you find your own used engine
Thanks for your video. My 2.3 makes the same diesel like noise but she's still running strong. Keep it up man you are very helpful.
Any updates?
@@karthikperavelli1735 she's still on the road
@@TheBattleMaster100 mines done it for 70thounds miles or more and not problem
@@austinhall1998 r
When the block cracks what ends up causing the noise, was looking at a 2011 escspe, but am worried this may become an issue as it has 180,000kms
Sounds like stuck lifter , if head was cracked it would smoke and have a hard time starting due to compression issues, correct me if I'm wrong .
Exactly what mine sounds like in my 09 mazda6. Same exact thing on start up. Been trying to figure out for awhile! No coolant loss. Guess I’ll keep driving it till it blows. Lol. Thanks for the vid. You’re stuff is always helpful.
Our Mazda's are fords mine is a Mazda 3i 2.0
I wanted to thank you for this vid. I just put in a 2012 fusion engine with 27K in my Milan and it was making this noise from the get go. The car runs 100% just noise drives me nuts. But I can live with it. You ended up saving me $520 because boneyard refunded my money and let me keep engine. THANKS!!!!
blueblood76 newer toyota rav 4s had cracked cylinder heads too.
blueblood76 how you fixed?
Sorry not much understanding English
I have same sound
2014 Ford Focus 45k used car
Ismail Jiva make sure ur running proper motor & oil filter 1st!
Car is still running fine 5 years later,
Same issue I'm having with my 02 tribute thanks for sharing!
I had an interesting tapping noise like that which suddenly got really bad. It turned out to be that the flex plate was fractured all around the mounting bolts for the drive shaft. It came out in two jagged pieces!
Same here. Cracked flex plate.
Did that noise come and go? I have a knocking noise that will be random at idle, pretty much goes away above 2K rpm
@@keithtulloch5682 It came and went and got much worse. I was still able to crank it, so the alighment for the starter was maintained. I didn't know what was happening, so I tried setting the timing, used the wrong timing pin and broke a valve, bent some other valves and had to drop the oil pan to replace the piston head that was pierced by the broken valve! The noise remained after I solved my oops-generated engine problems, so I dropped the transmission and discovered the broken flex plate. It fell off when I approached the first mounting bolt. It was a jagged fracture around the array of bolts that secured it to the engine. The replacement Ford part seemed to have a stronger, perhaps more resilient, design.
@@keithtulloch5682 dude same with me please if u have any info that would help
@@dontreyonewilliams4849помогите как решили проблему
I think it is also possible that the noise is coming from Vapor Canister Purge Valve.I listened to my engine cos has been getting same noise. This morning I took time and listened to it and then I realised it from the piece of device just behind the throttle body. It goes off and on cos it works with the electric plug attached to it which switches off and on automatically.
This guy is awesome, not many his age into cars like this.
You are awesome thanks for spreading the info. My engine has been very noisy lately and have been concerned.
whats your thoughts on a 2014 2.5 that makes this same noise but when cold after start up, then goes away when warm, not using coolant?
I have the same issue... it starts slightly noisey but afta a 5-10 min drive and goes a way and its quiet... my oil level is good as well
What do you recommend putting in the oil? Do you think like a Lucas oil or some brand to fix that? Hopefully you can answer my question. Appreciate you. Been watching your videos here for about six years. Thank you very much for your input on
Mystery oil
I just recently changed my oil and used 1qt of Lucas oil stabilizer in place of one of the full synthetic quarts of oil. Engine runs much quieter now and smoother. Coolant isn’t disappearing thankfully.
2015 Escape 2.5L 82K miles just started making this noise-thought it was a lifter maybe but sounds pretty similar. (No coolant loss but power steering leak reported at last oil change.) thanks for the heads up!
Noise at 2:45
Very useful video. My 2014 1.6L started making this sound as well. I don't know how to fix it though. Any answers?
Hey brother i have 09 ford escape 2.5l and i been having a problem with my engine it wont stop shaking a change all my engine mounts and tranny mounts spark plugs and even the purge valve and it wont go away it does it even more when i put it on drive do u know what maight be the issue ? Thanks love ur videos
Were you referring to the radiator coolant reservoir being bone dry as a direct link to this potential issue?
I have the 2006 Escape v6 front-wheel-drive I change all the coils and plugs and it started knocking again this time I think it's bad news. Is the 3.0 V6 known for crack blocks.
This brings me back to an old car i had. I thought it was rod knock for the longest found out it was not after replacing bearings. Car lasted me another 70,000 mi before i sold it running. This may not be the case for everyone though.
Have you seen this on the 2.3L engine also?
I found out what the noise was on my fusion 2.3l. sounded almost like a rod knock but turns out it is the intake manifold butterfly valves we had a 2003 Mazda with the noise too it was the same thing. You can replace if it is a ford but Mazda is proud of their intakes. Better yet just drive it.
Joe Goodart did you hear the sounds near the intake manifold? Or was you hearing the sounds located near the back like in the video?
Thank you so much been trying to figure this sound out!
You saved the day. Thank You very much
I noticed this noise in my 2010 Fusion SE 2.5L almost immediately after buying it with 65,000 kms. Knocking noise between cylinders 1 and 2 and only after warmed up, not when cold. I've put on 80,000km over 8 years since and haven't had any issues, no coolant losses, noise level hasn't changed. If it does lead to issues what does the proper repair entail, new block?
Any news on how the engine is doing?
I have a 2012 fusion 2.5 with 30K. this winter it started ticking. had been using 10w30 oil then changed it to 5w20 but it still made the noise, louder when the engine it cold. sounded like a bad lifter. I pulled the valve cover and every thing looked normal other than I could see an air gap between lifter and cam lobe on several lifters so i figure if they are hydraulic they must pump up quick when the engine is started. I assume there are hyd lifters. The car has been great to this point and seems to run well. No coolant loss at all. If I remove the filler cap when running there seems to be a fair amount of blow by. I checked the hose from valve cover to the TB valve and that is clear. I thought crank case pressure was supposed to be below atmospheric using a pcv valve? I havnt had it looked at yet by my Ford dealer. your thoughts? If the block is cracked why would it make any noise?
Using 10w30 in a overhead cam engine that calls for 5-30 or 20 was your first problem. Don’t do that. And in the winter any engine that takes say 5w20 should be getting 0w20 in the cold months. Modern engines don’t have the clearances for thicker oil to get where it needs to go. And in the cold it’s even worse. You might’ve done some damage.
Hey. What do you think about the infamous intercooler hole drilling to solve the misfiring on the 3.5 EcoBoost? I'm not sure if I should do this.
I suppose this can't be checked with a leak down test because the piston could be above the crack. only if there was a way to vacuum test it.
The piston doesn't ride right on the cylinder wall.
I have a 2001 Ford Focus SE that I have had for six years and I am having the same problem. My mechanic, after checking my plugs, distributor cap and rotor and all of my sensors, he said they were fine, but after a test drive, it started knocking . Plus, my "Check Engine" light would come on and stay on for about two days and go out. During that time that it was on, it ran good and even did for a short time when it went out, but there was the knocking after the test drive by my mechanic. My car is at my mechanic's garage as I speak. What could be the problem with that? Thanks.
You can hear the engine doesnt sound happy when its fully warmed up.
Its starving for air like most Fords! (low idle)
Lol um ok.
Thanks for posting this video.
you're getting me really worried now!
I have an 06 Focus, 2.0 duratec engine, that just started making a weird engine noise.
sounds like ticking noise.
its not that loud, and probably I'm being fussy, but I've been driving my baby for the last five years and I know how she should sound.
there is no engine code.
noise is more pronounced when the engine is idling and warm. no loss of any oil or coolant though.
and no over heating.
any suggestions?
Quality Reno I wouldn't worry about it but we have seen a few valve tappets fail. Easy enough to remove the valve cover and inspect.
Quality Reno it's direct injection all newer engines sound like that. This 2.5L example in vid is damaged and he knows it.
that makes sense i just bought a 2012 ford escape and i thought it sounded rough but i guess thats just the way they are supposed to run the is no knocking really or tapping except when you get down by the front tire on the drivers side and I'm wondering what it could be any answers to this would be awesome oh and i should state that they is still great power to it. thanks
I have a 2015 Transit connect with a 2.5 that I actually have a hotline contact out for right now. It came in with a P0304 and it only misfires on decel. Ruled out injectors, spark plugs, coils and injector/coil power and driver circuits. Manual compression showed same compression across all four cylinders, giver or take 2-3 PSI. The engine I'm dealing with seems to have this loud obnoxious tap to it so I'm curious if you have seen any misfires associated with this block cracking issue. Hotline wants me to perform a running compression test and look at the valvetrain if the running compression test is inconclusive.
Thanks for the great video. My Escape just began making this noise. It sounds a lot louder when the car is in low RPM or if I disconnect any of the coils. If I rev the engine up a little bit it stops. The car runs perfectly and I don't hear the noise while driving. What has to be done to fix the crack? Or how can it be muted?
Did you find out what it was?
@Alex Arias it was the flywheel/flex plate. It cracked, so the noise was coming from the broken piece of metal bouncing around.
@@miguelmojica5897
I have a 2014 ford scape and has the same noise
So is that the problem my Mecanic going to check the car tomorrow
My 2014 Ford Transit Conbect has the same symptoms as your vehicle but the noise is on the passenger side of the vehicle I thought it was the water pump and changed that and i cut the ac compressor belt the sound is still there......smh
Mine has it but not loud I think it’s normal it sounds like the second engine that I put
Ever hear a flapping sound on a 2016 fusion EcoBoost?
Carrie Moles that’s what’s going on with my 2016 fusion . Have you figured out what it was ?
I have that same noise on a 2012 Fusion, clack clack, louder behind the block, looking from above the heat shield, louder when hot, but how can I rule out piston slap, or rod knock. With my ear on a long screwdriver, I only hear the valves clicking nicely, so the bad sound does not come from the valve train. How can I rule out dangerous noises like rod knock?
I hope you get a response to this because exact same this with my 14 fusion
Did you ever figure it out?
oh wow, the damaged one does sound very loud. this is good information because mine sounds like the good engine 100%
When my mother was getting a car it was a toss up between a 2011 Malibu or fusion I am so glad she got the Malibu. The fusion seems like it was a lemon. Tons of transmission issues and now engine issues as well on the 2.5. I would say the Fusion has better driving dynamics and a better built interior than the bu
DJR5280 far from it. Fusion Blows away Camry & slow seller Malibu.
I own a 06 Mercury Mariner and it just happened to mine as of today. I have the 3.0L V6 engine. I just changed out my Camshaft Positioning Sensor and right after I did that, I noticed this noise. Do you think it would have to do anything with that? Please chime in if anyone would know. Thanks, in advance.
Ever hear a similar sound on Duratec 3.5L N/A engines found in the Fusion Sport/Edge/Taurus? Mine has a very slight tapping noise coming from the LH bank and is not rev dependant, stays the same sound regardless of RPM. Sounds similar to a cam phaser tap on a 5.4 triton.
+Kevin Barbieri Never heard of noises on those engines they are pretty strong.
Thank you for your reply! Do you think it's a possibility that I could be affected by tsb 11-11-15?
my car is making similar noise while idling, but it goes away when I'm accelerating. Is it a big issue?
Having the same issue here
I've been looking for info on this ticking went to my dealer and they said something about a comment you made about the #4valve tappets maybe not working???..Any thoughts on this and how I can go about checking/fixing my self??..and should I be driving it?....What makes me think it's what you posted in this video is when I start my truck in the morning and it's cold no noise when it heats up ticking like crazy?/
jerry H The dealer referred you to my video? I never made any mention on 4 valve engines. What vehicle is this?
If you have please let me know how to fix it, I started it up in the cold and it was like the belt squealing then the engine started knocking
Any updates?
I'm having the same issue with my 2012 5.0 mustang is that common for the mustang?
that's the noise. thank you. finally. but... how to fix? will it wear out the rings? thanks
If the block is indeed cracked then you replace the short block assy.
How much would roughly cost at a dealer?
All I have to say is I love the escape it handles like a car and the i4 2.3 is a great motor with the power like as v6 very impressed I'm a Chevy guy but when I get behind the wheel of a escape the performance and reliability are very apparent
The fact that your a Chevy guy explains why you would be impressed with a Ford. Lol they both suck but ford's suck just a little less...
Is this knocking noise constant or does it come and go?
Do you have any pics of a cracked engine or where the crack would occur?
Guy Ko No I don't but it usually happens in the center betwen the two cylinders.
FordTechMakuloco Thanks for the reply.
Hi! I have the same sound! No leak! Is it very expensive to change? Onl’y 72000km....
Mine does the same tick not the bad knock.
I had this problem on my 2012 focus. Loud ticking noise and yeah it was a dead give away because the coolant would drop quickly. Now i have a 2015 fusion with a 2.5 and it makes this noise but the coolant hasn't moved much since i first got the car. I currently have 13,900 miles.
My focus had 40,000 miles.
Hi Brian. If you get the chance to tear one of these down, we'd love to see the crack. Great Video.
fastrace011 If I ever get one they want to tear down I sure will.
Is there supposed to be an engine cover to make the engine compartment look better for this car
My focus had a noise like this but it came from the intake and if I disconnect the vacuum line it went away and engine would sound smooth,sadly it doesn’t matter anymore as my car was totaled 😑
This has helped me out a lot. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!
I have a 2.0 2013 explorer that sounds the same. Car still works fine it’s just loud. Have any videos on how to fix it ?
Have a 2014 ford transit connect with same noise. Is there a way to confirm this crack using a borescope or something. Where would the crack be
So Brian, is the 2.5 a 2.3 punched? Is it ford or mazda?
@Jonathan A Thank you
Спасибо. Наконец-то нормальное видео с примером этого стука
Что он говорит нашчот стука
@@pogosyanargishti4873 причина в трещин между 2м и 3м цилиндром чаще всего. Если антифриз не уходит, то можно в принципе ездить
My 2011 Escape has started making this noise @80k miles. My selling dealer told me it was normal and will not fix it unless it starts loosing coolant. The noise seems to be coming from between 1 and 2.
I have this noise and while I don't notice the coolant being low I do notice it is making my oil milky. Dry Compression 190 across the board. With the closed coolant system is there a way to put in a head gasket/ block sealer?
A 2012 car? Hopefully this was under warranty? You are right in that that engine sounds terrible. Cheap block casting or making it too light?
ItsAlwaysRusty Yes it is a defect in the casting on some.
Have you come across one with excessive crankcase pressure? On the 2.3l
I've got an 07 Focus 2.0L that intermittently makes a ticking noise once the engine is hot. Not enough for an "OMG what is that noise?!" Reaction but still, it's a tick I know shouldn't be there. She's got 185k and she's solid otherwise. The tranny and engine are great (besides that knock), I'd like to keep her around for a while yet. Where can I start for at home diagnostics before I take it to the shop? No check engine light on, not over heating, if there's a leak it's not noticeable (yet🤞🏻). I appreciate any advice.
I have the same car, check the imc runner flaps in the intake(also called tumbler flaps), they make noise when the get loose(very common). They will not always throw a code.
can you pull the spark plus, and see if one of them look too clean compared to the others?
I have a 2000 Expedition that sounds just like this, was there this kind of problem with the 1st generation 5.4 Tritons? Someone suggested a VCT solenoid but I can't seem to find them on my engine.
+Justin Spencer No yours does not have a vct solenoid. You need to see which bank has the noise and then remove the valve cover to inspect the lash adjusters and rockers.
+FordTechMakuloco hey great vids, honest question? should I get a Honda or a Ford? which manufacturer do you think builds the Better overall Vehicle?
Thank you for this. I have a 2014 fusion with a 1.5 with that noise. How do I silence it or at least quiet it some?
Very clear and informative video .
dude lol you made my day I got a frod thunderbird it has that pecking sound now I no wat it is
What is the model/name of this engine? I would like to get the diagrams and information about it. Just is a DOCH 2.5 but don't know the name of it.
Good info...I have nearly 100k on my work supplied 2012 2.5L escape and several more at work that other guys drive with no issues yet. My wifes 2011 Escape Limited is also a 2.5 and we own it. Paid for so I'm hoping it doesn't develop this issue. Has 48K miles as of now.
Is this just a manufacturing defect in the block? Doesn't seem like a maintenance neglect issue.
klc317 Yes a defect in the manufacturing process.
FordTechMakuloco Would it be possible to use a stop leak/coolant sealer to at least stop or slow the coolant leak? It sounds as if the crack is very small considering there is no noticeable performance loss. Also is it possible to diagnose this or notice anything using a compression/leakdown tester?
on the subject of noise when I hit a slight rise in roadway I get a rattle in the driver's side front suspension. on a 100k mile focus zx3..what is most suspect..bushing ware or shocks? great instruction and info. thanks. mike
Go right after the stabilizer links they are very common.
Thanks...I'm on the case. Also your control arm change out helps to understand suspension dynamics.
MT Mals
I'm more inclined to believe that that a cylinder an intake valve is being incrimentally compromised by timing slip along the harmonic balancer. But maybe I'm just entertaining my own mythology. If the harmonic balancer slips along any of the internal surface radii then the iVCT components might be misinformed by the crankshaft position sensor .... if the iVCT components are not performing to specification ... If the valve stems grow toward interference as the engine heats up ... if the valves are thrown a bit more because of the degrading lash clearance collisions ... the possibility of interference seems a more likely source of tapping, even though I can't imagine it fully, than resonance from a crack leading into the water jacket.
Hi, thank you for your videos they're really helpful. I have an 02 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0. Today I was out driving and all of a sudden it cut off and all the lights lit up on the dash. I coasted into a parking lot and then looked under the hood. I found that the ignition coil pack's pigtail/harness had disconnected. I saw that it had two rubber gaskets(I think it's called). So I removed one and plugged it back in. I have no check engine lights or anything on but now when I go to take its slower, sluggish, I almost have to push gas pedal to ground and the engine makes a loud clack/knocking sound(hard to describe). It never ran like this before. Is there anything I can do to get it back to normal? Maybe unplug negative battery cables for 5 mins or something? Please help! TIA
What causes the noise ?
What happens to cause the noise ? Thank you 😊 3:34
i cant tell if mine is a rod knock or cracked block mines a ford fusion hyrbid the coolant consumption i cant see before the heatercore i believe its a heater control thing is broken or clogged so their is no coolant going to the heatercore to flow to engine likely damaging it not being driven currently really need help wish u were still commenting to help people
Is there a recall on this issue by chance? I have a Ford 2009 XLT V6 that started doing all this (right to a T) before it finally crapped out on me.
Quick question. I know ford recommend 5w20 for these engines. But can I run a 5w30? It has over 200K Im trying to slow down the oil consumption. Thanks!
Do you know if the crack is in the head or the block? Could a broken head bolt also cause this?
My 05 focus has a taping coming from the intake manifold but only when cold any suggestions it's kinda embarrassing at times
Alvaro garcia. More than likely its worn IMRC flaps in the intake runners. Common issue on the 2lt focus.
Only fix is replacement of intake manifold.
couldnt you just remove the flaps?
Have they done anything to redesign the engine and fix the issue in newer years? I'm considering a Transit Connect but I really would prefer one with the 2.5, I don't want the 2.0 because It has less power and direct injection.
My 2014 Ford Transit Connect is a victim...smh
Mine has a similar sound but only on cold starts and when it’s fully warm up the engine is very quiet any idea what could be the problem or should I be worried ?
I have ford escape 2011 same sound several mechanics saw it and
They said it’s from the motor while one said and is sure it’s flywheel so what’s your suggestions hope some one answer
Need help with my 17’ 3.5 eco boost. Sorry this isn’t related to the stuff in this video.
Turbo rattle at high interstate highway speed.
Ford says it’s the turbos and it’s normal and they won’t replace. Is there anything I can do?
It sounds like it’s going to rattle and explode then it stops.
Happens at about 78mph when holding speed, comes and goes.
On a used car I would walk away from a noise like that.
Will C just worked on a fusion lady bought for $4000 at a unloyal used dealer. Diagnosed it and turned out a the rattling noise is a misfire and a bad valve. Didn’t overhear but must have been a beginning of a head leak.