I have this machine and just finished "repairing" a wheel barrow that had rusted through. Used some thin galvanized sheet metal. I was tricky trying to find the right settings to avoid too much blow through but I got it done. Not the prettiest welding job but I'm new to welding and had a lot of fun with this project. Found that using a shorter stick out helped a bit. Welding thin gauge sheet metal, you need to just do a series of tacks to avoid blow throughs. While it does take a long time to lay down the tacks, it's probably the only way you can weld thin sheet metal. If you do it right, after you grind off the tacks, it looks like it wasn't welded. I really like this machine. Just know that to get started with welding, there are a lot of consumables and equipment you will need for projects. So far, I did some fence post work and the wheel barrow project. I think changing out the clamp will be a good thing to do. One that will clamp around small diameter pipes or round objects would help a lot. Good video review!....and nice welding!
I bought this FC-90 to do some patch panels on my truck (old expense Lincoln got stolen). Came set up for .035 wire so I bought Lincoln wire. Recommended setting way way high. Complete blow through on 18 ga steel setting. Tried every possible combo down to lowest settings 1-1 and still blow through. Was about to trash can the thing but decided to try the .030 wire. I bought some and set the machine up for .030 wire. Still blow through after blow through on recommended settings on down to settings of 1-1 Lowest settings for heat and speed worked!!!! I know this thing is cheap and you get what you pay for but it does work (after trail and error) and is so light and easy to move around (and cheap) $199 on Amazon
I like these new inverter machines because of their light weight, portability and performance, too. On transportability and maneuverability, they surpass the forceful big and weighty Hobart Stickmate LX 235.
I bought one of these welders and I totally love it it works very good for what I have what I will I will mainly a finch material and it works perfect on that
I bought one of these a year ago and just gave up on it: too fast at slowest wire setting for thin material, but maybe my fault. After watching this, I'm going to give it another go. Thanks much.
It’s a little beast 🔥 I left my HF 90 amp on the side of the road free 99. I ran .030 Lincoln wire/tip helped with blow through and did small tacks on 20 gauge, heat 1 wire 2, filled a couple holes 🕳 but it’s finicky on the 20, did some 14 gauge also it has power 💥 👨🏻🏭
Great review. You actually ran decent beads compared to the other review videos on this machine. I couldn't rely on the others due to the welds they produced and the fact they didn't show a cut and etch. They did not really make it inticing to watch. Was that a shade lense on your camera? I like that I could see the puddle as you welded. Also the fact that you pointed out that has infinite variable nobs helped my decision. I'm a Welding Specialist Grad building up my fab shop, this will definitely be my go to back up FCAW machine. Thanks for the video
Thanks. I actually use a camcorder with built-in neutral density filter. No extra lens or shade required to get arc shots. Good luck with the fab shop, hope it goes well for you.
I have the same welder. I’ve noticed that many people advise to reverse the polarity on flex core welders. The clamp positive, the wire negative. Do you know if it came set up with it being reversed? Reversing the polarity cuts down on the spatter.
I am using E71T-GS, 0.035” on a Forney 140FC-i to weld on 1/8 inch steel. First I did some T-Joints and then a cut and etch test, I was impressed with the weld penetration. It’s similar if not identical to the results of a 7018 stick rod. I am a stick rod man, but I like to keep an open mind.
Thanks for the video. If I want to run .030 wire by flipping the feed wheel, do I need to buy a new .030 tip, or will the provided tip be just fine? Thank you for explaining the feed speed and power settings when describing the weld on the thickness of the thinner material. This really helps to provide insight to the welder's capabilities.
The included tip would probably work with 0.030" wire, but ideally, you would want to get some 0.030" contact tips to minimize possible issues. I have found them at Home Depot, Lowe's, Tractor Supply, Napa, Harbor Freight, and every welding supply store. So hopefully you have someplace nearby that carries them.
Off Curse you have to fabricated whit Lincoln or Miller 220 and the right gas however I use this one on small balconies installations and is very very light just good for small base plates and ear tabs and on light gauge fence posts alike 16 g if they are just a few . I recommended for small installations or just tack weld especially if your age is giving pain on your back , is very very light weight small dependable tool
Nice and exquisite machine, brand name, too! Question…if you have time. When welding 1/8 inch steel and after the cut and etch test, does the penetration gets better or it’s the same? Good review, take care my friend.
@@meca13b I can't remember if it came with any 0.030" tips or not, but you should be able to flip the drive roller and feed 0.030" wire. But you might have to buy 0.030" contact tips.
thanks for this video,after converting my HF flux 125 from your tutorial, I have become intrigued with these small portable machines. So after seeing this video I decided to purchase this one as well. I actually got it unboxed today and tried it out and it did just as good as expected and seemed pretty powerful for what it is and compared to the HF after conversion. I noticed tho on the box its calling for .035 NR 211 wire and even came installed with a .035 tip in the gun. well all I have is E71t-11 by blue demon. I switched the tip out and changed the knurled roller to the .030 side and ran a few beads and it went well... just seemed like it was almost too strong for the smaller wire.. Do you think I should buy a roll of .035 or just run what I got for now?
If the 0.030" wire is working for you, I'd say just run it. You could try 0.035" wire when you need more, but I don't see why you couldn't run what you have for now.
It could probably work for that, but I don't think flux core is the easiest to use for auto body work. I don't have any personal experience with auto body work though, so I can't say for sure.
Are you talking about the new Titanium Easy Flux 125 Amp? I assume so. I have been considering getting one to try out. Have a lot going on right now, but I'll put it on the list to get and try out.
If I still had the welder I'd try it out and let you know. As it is, I would guess it would work if you used a heavy extension cord (12AWG), but I can't say 100%.
This welder is far lighter and runs much smoother due to having DC output, vs. the HF 125. The HF 125 is quite a bit less expensive though, and most people do seem to report that they hold up pretty well over time. I prefer the Century FC-90, but I don't think the track record is quite as proven, and it is more expensive.
compared to the HF flux 125 after conversion to DC. how much better or about the same is the two? I have been looking at this machine lately for a dedicated Flux wire machine. I don't do much Flux welding but I wouldn't mind having this one as an option.
The FC-90 has a nicer arc. I can only compare with the simple conversion I did on the Chicago Electric welder, but if I was deciding between buying the HF welder to convert, or buy the Century FC-90, I’d go with the FC-90. DC out of the box, smoother arc than a rectifier only conversion, smaller, lighter. Just my personal preference.
I have made up my mind.. I will be purchasing one of these welders. it would be perfect for the small fixes that come up instead of lugging around a 200 class machine and swaping polarity and wire just to fix the elderly lady's favorite patio chair. 'thanks for the video
I haven't welded in the better part of 20 years even then I only ran stick and now that I have extra time was wanting to get back into welding but don't want to clutter my lil she'd with all the different sticks and was wondering if that centry or the titanium 125 would be strong enough to use to build stuff like tow dollies and trailers if not could you recommend a flux core that would be strong enough but not to expensive
Of the two the Titanium 125 would definitely be my choice. It would likely be capable of what you want. Personally, I'd prefer something capable of running off 240V power. Whether or not you need a 240V welder will depend on the type and thickness of the materials you will be using, but it's something to keep in mind. Is there a specific budget you'd like to stay within?
I use the century 255 flux core welder for trailers and projects that's going to see highway use because it has a better range of amperage which allows me to weld thicker material than the fc 90 is capable of
A video I watched yesterday shows to weld like a cursive e pattern. Do you weld in a pattern like mentioned? I Haven welded before so thanks for your video. I had already bought this welder with no knowledge of them.
Most guides don't recommend any weave or cursive "e" type of pattern with flux core welding. That doesn't mean it can't work, but personally, I just do a straight drag with Flux core. With gas shielded MIG welding I do an "e" pattern most of the time.
@@bigtb1717 thank you. Now... Lol I am trying to weld ummm" fish plates" to my trailer... Tongue is the a frame style and is bent up. I think I have it pulled down by attaching to my ball and jacking from the first u chanel center... But the same welder I bought blows my inverter immediately... I read 20 amp. Minimum.. and the best I have found is 15 amp in jumper/inverters... I hate to spend yet another billfifty. On something that won't work. Any ideas..not close to any outlet and I don't wanna let it down... Buuut... This home depot is getting tired of seeing me here....
I think you'll have a difficult time finding any affordable inverter than will run a welder. Renting or borrowing a generator might make more sense. Does the Home Depot you are near have a rental department?
You are correct! There isn't an affordable inverter. A generator was my last option. Home depot does rent one for 4 hours for about fifty bucks. Priced a generator Harbors 4200 watt only has 15 amp output I need 20. So I'm getting into 500-1000 cost to buy one with 20 amp output... I cutting losses. Returned the welder for now ... With accessories etc etc.. I was over 500..... I will try again on another day. Thank you for the replyz.
May I have your opinion which one would you prefer this particular welder or the Harbor Freight titanium 125 they're both inverters but which one is better for power and longevity? Really tight on cash but looking to start welding. Thank you for your time
It's hard to say in terms of longevity. I no longer have either welder, but as far as I know they are both still working. Personally, I prefer the Titanium 125. It has a bit more output and a few things I like a bit better. It's not a huge difference either way, but if I had to choose one, I'd personally pick the Titanium 125. Are you in the US? If so, where about?
I may have a welder to give away before too long. I am in NW Ohio, not far from Toledo. If you are willing to wait until I'm done with it and meet me in the Toledo area somewhere, you can have it.
Flux core isn't ideal for auto body, but it can do it. I'd go with 0.30", but it shouldn't make that much difference. The big thing is to practice on some scrap material of the same thickness first to get your settings and technique dialed in before starting on an important weld/project.
Thank you. Its a floor panel under the carpet so doesn't have to be pretty It's just a one time job and I'd like to have an all purpose welder when I'm done. Thanks for the help!
@@stewmeat9261 Sure thing. One thing to consider, I've since reviewed the Titanium Easy Flux 125 from Harbor Freight, and for the price I actually prefer it slightly to this welder. Might at least be worth a look.
Well, technically it should come on if internal components get too hot. This could result from welding past the duty cycle to the point that the internal temps get too hot. It could also happen if the fan wasn't working properly or air was blocked for some reason. In any of those cases, I would think shutting the welder off and letting it cool down would allow it to work again. If that isn't the case, there may be a problem with the welder.
For 1/16" this machine shines. 1-2mm material is the bane of welding. This welder will pay for itself on the first exhaust system that you repair. Heck, you could make steel belt buckles for fun. Please do some 2mm plate or exhaust like the noisy heat shields with this unit. Good video.
José Duarte Miranda I just purchased one and for some reason I cannot even get a bead. It’s just tiny little balls barely StuCk together . Any idea what settings or what I should be doing?
@@RobMetzgar01 Hello. Depending on the thickness of the material, the amperage/voltage is too low/cold. Check for a good bare metal ground and no paint on the surface to be welded. The company answers emails. Send an email to them with your specs. If the guidance is not a solution, the welder could be a candidate for defect return.
José Duarte Miranda thank you for the info. I’m actually trying to weld a steel pipe onto a brake drum. I have the clamp on the brake drum but it is pretty thick in general. Maybe not enough power for something like that?
@@RobMetzgar01 1/8"material is the optimal thickness for the FC 90. The pipe and brake drum are conducting heat away from the weld area. What do you think about a narrow land/sharp bevel on the pipe, preheating the material with a propane torch, tacking, and welding uphill after you get tacked in place? Root pass, HOT pass, capping passes. As you weld, the material will accumulate great heat. czcams.com/video/usjIl_we8Ps/video.html
José Duarte Miranda I see what you mean. This may not be strong enough because there’s no way this metal is getting warm it’s just making little pellets that barely stick together. I will check out the link you provided
I would recommend a 20 amp breaker/circuit. A 15 amp circuit might work, but you may end up tripping the breaker if you run at full output. I don't have the welder any more or I'd test the draw.
@@bigtb1717 i got it last may and it shorted out 2/10/19. I was welding a woodstove grate insert. I heard a high pitch squeak ing and it threw the breaker. I turn breaker on again tried welding snd it quit aftr that. Power button lit up but no power to welder, even fan didnt work. I think somewhere on circuit board it shorted.
That's a shame. Inverters have gotten fairly prolific across the welder market, and I think that general reliability is fairly good. Still would be interesting to see how these FC-90s generally hold up long-term. Where about are you located?
@@bigtb1717 yea, i didnt even over use it, couple builds here snd there. I rarely max out settings just within what i was welding. Im located in northeast az. Top secret location, lol. For what its worth i really enjoyed using that welder because it was an inverter. I still have my jobsmart 125amp fc that i mainly use for dedicated flux core. Good luck enjoy your welder, i did for awhile.👍
Well, you aren't that close, but I'll still ask. Do you still have the failed FC-90? If so, is it still in basically the condition it was when it failed?
It technically could, but the weld and the area around it would no longer be "stainless." It would readily rust. They do make stainless, flux core wire, but it's very uncommon and I have no idea how well it works.
It should do okay, but keep in mind that thin material is tricky with any welder, so you will want to practice on some scrap first, if possible. Also, mufflers typically rust out from the inside, so they are often much worse than they look from the ouside. So there could be thin spots other places that burn through pretty easy. Use short welds to prevent heat from getting away from you. Good luck.
@@bigtb1717 I got the welder and bought some sheet steel maybe 16 gauge or 18 from diy center. I got an auto darkening mask. So I tried to practice on that and boy I suck. I couldn't even see what I was doing. I guess I need to set the brightness control down on the mask. In addition because I couldn't see the wire fed out and didn't weld so I had like a foot of wire hanging out. I'll get better hopefully. I may be the worst welder in America. Hehe!
A 10 gauge cord is pretty heavy. With a 75 foot extension cord you should only have 3-5% voltage drop from the cord, max. In what way was it cutting out? If you turned the settings down did it cut out less?
Some welders are less tolerant of long extension cords than others. It's possible that the FC-90 is a bit more sensitive than others. Hopefully the shorter cord solves your issues.
It's a " I just ran out of gas on my regular welder let me use this one" type of welder for sheet metal, exhaust, lawn mowers, farm stuff or the occasional fender on a car using to tach on top of tack.
The duty cycle is fairly low when maxed out. I think 20-30%, but I'd have to look it up. Should be enough for home projects, but it's certainly not a production welder.
Oh. Duty cycle is just a percentage out of every 10 minutes that the welder is rated to operate. I know that isn't super simple, but I'll explain a bit. If a welder is rated at 20% duty cycle, that means it is rated to be actually welding for 2 minutes out of every 10. The remaining 80% of that 10 minutes it must be not welding. That could be a continuous 2 minutes, or broken up over the course of the ten minutes. So you could weld for 30 seconds four times in ten minutes, weld for 2 minutes straight, weld for 1 minute twice, etc. The duty cycle rated is designed to ensure that internal components, power cords, power switches, etc. are all allowed enough time to cool so they don't fail. The higher the duty cycle, the more time out of ever 10 minute period they can spend welding. A 100% duty cycle means the welder could be running a bead continuously, without any components needing any down time to cool. A 50% duty cycle means that a welder could be running for 5 out of every ten minutes without anything being overworked, and so on. A short duty cycle means you can't weld as continuously without exceeding the rating and risking overheating the machine. For small projects or projects that involve short beads here and there with a lot of prep work and such in between, a short duty cycle won't be an issue at all. A larger project where you are running a lot of long beads makes a higher duty cycle beneficial.
I have this machine and just finished "repairing" a wheel barrow that had rusted through. Used some thin galvanized sheet metal. I was tricky trying to find the right settings to avoid too much blow through but I got it done. Not the prettiest welding job but I'm new to welding and had a lot of fun with this project. Found that using a shorter stick out helped a bit. Welding thin gauge sheet metal, you need to just do a series of tacks to avoid blow throughs. While it does take a long time to lay down the tacks, it's probably the only way you can weld thin sheet metal. If you do it right, after you grind off the tacks, it looks like it wasn't welded. I really like this machine. Just know that to get started with welding, there are a lot of consumables and equipment you will need for projects.
So far, I did some fence post work and the wheel barrow project. I think changing out the clamp will be a good thing to do. One that will clamp around small diameter pipes or round objects would help a lot. Good video review!....and nice welding!
I absolutely love mine! My little money maker laying down beautiful structural beads! Paid for itself in 10 minutes the first time i used it!
Any welding videos? Just curious.
I bought this FC-90 to do some patch panels on my truck (old expense Lincoln got stolen). Came set up for .035 wire so I bought Lincoln wire. Recommended setting way way high. Complete blow through on 18 ga steel setting. Tried every possible combo down to lowest settings 1-1 and still blow through. Was about to trash can the thing but decided to try the .030 wire. I bought some and set the machine up for .030 wire. Still blow through after blow through on recommended settings on down to settings of 1-1 Lowest settings for heat and speed worked!!!! I know this thing is cheap and you get what you pay for but it does work (after trail and error) and is so light and easy to move around (and cheap) $199 on Amazon
I had a similar issue with the settings being incorrectly too high for sheet metal. Have to go down to 3-4 to not blow through
I've had this welder for over a year, it will weld anything from tin on up, i use it mostly on riding mower size metals.
I like these new inverter machines because of their light weight,
portability and performance, too. On transportability and maneuverability, they
surpass the forceful big and weighty Hobart Stickmate LX 235.
I bought one of these welders and I totally love it it works very good for what I have what I will I will mainly a finch material and it works perfect on that
I bought one of these a year ago and just gave up on it: too fast at slowest wire setting for thin material, but maybe my fault. After watching this, I'm going to give it another go. Thanks much.
It’s a little beast 🔥 I left my HF 90 amp on the side of the road free 99. I ran .030 Lincoln wire/tip helped with blow through and did small tacks on 20 gauge, heat 1 wire 2, filled a couple holes 🕳 but it’s finicky on the 20, did some 14 gauge also it has power 💥 👨🏻🏭
What setting you have it on for the wire feed and the other one? Sorry I’m new
Great review. You actually ran decent beads compared to the other review videos on this machine. I couldn't rely on the others due to the welds they produced and the fact they didn't show a cut and etch. They did not really make it inticing to watch. Was that a shade lense on your camera? I like that I could see the puddle as you welded. Also the fact that you pointed out that has infinite variable nobs helped my decision. I'm a Welding Specialist Grad building up my fab shop, this will definitely be my go to back up FCAW machine. Thanks for the video
Thanks. I actually use a camcorder with built-in neutral density filter. No extra lens or shade required to get arc shots. Good luck with the fab shop, hope it goes well for you.
I was wondering why not use a stick welder. I have never welded and thinking about getting this machine here on the video.
Thank you for the video!
well done video and my experience has been the same with mine
Can you run .30 wire or does it have to be .35 ??
@@whitegorillia117 both. Just flip the adjustment wheel over. It has two grooves, one for 035, and one for 030.
you made it look so easy
I have the same welder. I’ve noticed that many people advise to reverse the polarity on flex core welders. The clamp positive, the wire negative. Do you know if it came set up with it being reversed? Reversing the polarity cuts down on the spatter.
This welder comes set up properly for flux core, i.e. with electrode negative, work clamp/ground positive.
I am using E71T-GS, 0.035”
on a Forney 140FC-i to weld on 1/8 inch steel. First I did some T-Joints
and then a cut and etch test, I was impressed with the weld penetration. It’s similar
if not identical to the results of a 7018 stick rod. I am a stick rod man, but
I like to keep an open mind.
Thanks I needed that info
Thanks for the video. If I want to run .030 wire by flipping the feed wheel, do I need to buy a new .030 tip, or will the provided tip be just fine? Thank you for explaining the feed speed and power settings when describing the weld on the thickness of the thinner material. This really helps to provide insight to the welder's capabilities.
The included tip would probably work with 0.030" wire, but ideally, you would want to get some 0.030" contact tips to minimize possible issues. I have found them at Home Depot, Lowe's, Tractor Supply, Napa, Harbor Freight, and every welding supply store. So hopefully you have someplace nearby that carries them.
i still need to learn on the speed and the voltage.
Great info. Thanks a lot! Going to give this little guy a try
Off Curse you have to fabricated whit Lincoln or Miller 220 and the right gas however I use this one on small balconies installations and is very very light just good for small base plates and ear tabs and on light gauge fence posts alike 16 g if they are just a few . I recommended for small installations or just tack weld especially if your age is giving pain on your back , is very very light weight small dependable tool
Nice
and exquisite machine, brand name, too! Question…if you have time. When welding
1/8 inch steel and after the cut and etch test, does the penetration gets
better or it’s the same? Good review, take care my friend.
Yes, penetration will be a bit better on 1/8" than it was on 3/16". Thanks.
@@bigtb1717
Can 0.30 wire be used with this machine?
Just bought one and wanting to use
211 .30 wire by Lincoln
@@meca13b I can't remember if it came with any 0.030" tips or not, but you should be able to flip the drive roller and feed 0.030" wire. But you might have to buy 0.030" contact tips.
thanks for this video,after converting my HF flux 125 from your tutorial, I have become intrigued with these small portable machines. So after seeing this video I decided to purchase this one as well. I actually got it unboxed today and tried it out and it did just as good as expected and seemed pretty powerful for what it is and compared to the HF after conversion. I noticed tho on the box its calling for .035 NR 211 wire and even came installed with a .035 tip in the gun. well all I have is E71t-11 by blue demon. I switched the tip out and changed the knurled roller to the .030 side and ran a few beads and it went well... just seemed like it was almost too strong for the smaller wire.. Do you think I should buy a roll of .035 or just run what I got for now?
If the 0.030" wire is working for you, I'd say just run it. You could try 0.035" wire when you need more, but I don't see why you couldn't run what you have for now.
does this welder have a contactor or does the wire remain electrically hot at all times?
The wire is only live when you pull the trigger.
What spool wire were you using for this demonstration?
Lincoln NR211 MP. 0.035"
Could this welder work for patching auto body parts? Good vid btw
It could probably work for that, but I don't think flux core is the easiest to use for auto body work. I don't have any personal experience with auto body work though, so I can't say for sure.
Can anyone comment how this machine compares to the HF 125FC welder? Thanks for posting. The HF 125FC is DC-inverter tech and list for $199.
Are you talking about the new Titanium Easy Flux 125 Amp? I assume so. I have been considering getting one to try out. Have a lot going on right now, but I'll put it on the list to get and try out.
I have to run a heavy gauge extension cord from the house, possibly 50' even. Will that even work?
If I still had the welder I'd try it out and let you know. As it is, I would guess it would work if you used a heavy extension cord (12AWG), but I can't say 100%.
Would you recommend this welder over the HF 125? I’m mostly welding 1/8 steel. Thank you
This welder is far lighter and runs much smoother due to having DC output, vs. the HF 125. The HF 125 is quite a bit less expensive though, and most people do seem to report that they hold up pretty well over time. I prefer the Century FC-90, but I don't think the track record is quite as proven, and it is more expensive.
Don’t get the cheap Harbor freight welder, trust me!
compared to the HF flux 125 after conversion to DC. how much better or about the same is the two? I have been looking at this machine lately for a dedicated Flux wire machine. I don't do much Flux welding but I wouldn't mind having this one as an option.
The FC-90 has a nicer arc. I can only compare with the simple conversion I did on the Chicago Electric welder, but if I was deciding between buying the HF welder to convert, or buy the Century FC-90, I’d go with the FC-90. DC out of the box, smoother arc than a rectifier only conversion, smaller, lighter.
Just my personal preference.
I have made up my mind.. I will be purchasing one of these welders. it would be perfect for the small fixes that come up instead of lugging around a 200 class machine and swaping polarity and wire just to fix the elderly lady's favorite patio chair. 'thanks for the video
Hello do u switch the leads for dc just seeing a lot doing this
On this welder you can't switch the leads and there is no need to switch them.
I haven't welded in the better part of 20 years even then I only ran stick and now that I have extra time was wanting to get back into welding but don't want to clutter my lil she'd with all the different sticks and was wondering if that centry or the titanium 125 would be strong enough to use to build stuff like tow dollies and trailers if not could you recommend a flux core that would be strong enough but not to expensive
Of the two the Titanium 125 would definitely be my choice. It would likely be capable of what you want. Personally, I'd prefer something capable of running off 240V power. Whether or not you need a 240V welder will depend on the type and thickness of the materials you will be using, but it's something to keep in mind. Is there a specific budget you'd like to stay within?
I use the century 255 flux core welder for trailers and projects that's going to see highway use because it has a better range of amperage which allows me to weld thicker material than the fc 90 is capable of
I've run the thing off a 100 foot cord and it still worked fantastically, probably don't wanna go longer than that though...
Good to know. Need to run a heavy 50’ to the driveway.
@@bethl9825 my outlet was a 120v 20A though, might not work as well with a 15A outlet
Great review! What wire and size did you use for this ?
0.035"
@@bigtb1717
Definitely do another follow up on this underrated machine. Wire and thicker metal.
A video I watched yesterday shows to weld like a cursive e pattern. Do you weld in a pattern like mentioned? I Haven welded before so thanks for your video. I had already bought this welder with no knowledge of them.
Most guides don't recommend any weave or cursive "e" type of pattern with flux core welding. That doesn't mean it can't work, but personally, I just do a straight drag with Flux core. With gas shielded MIG welding I do an "e" pattern most of the time.
@@bigtb1717 thank you. Now... Lol I am trying to weld ummm" fish plates" to my trailer... Tongue is the a frame style and is bent up. I think I have it pulled down by attaching to my ball and jacking from the first u chanel center... But the same welder I bought blows my inverter immediately... I read 20 amp. Minimum.. and the best I have found is 15 amp in jumper/inverters... I hate to spend yet another billfifty. On something that won't work. Any ideas..not close to any outlet and I don't wanna let it down... Buuut... This home depot is getting tired of seeing me here....
I think you'll have a difficult time finding any affordable inverter than will run a welder. Renting or borrowing a generator might make more sense. Does the Home Depot you are near have a rental department?
You are correct! There isn't an affordable inverter. A generator was my last option. Home depot does rent one for 4 hours for about fifty bucks. Priced a generator Harbors 4200 watt only has 15 amp output I need 20. So I'm getting into 500-1000 cost to buy one with 20 amp output... I cutting losses. Returned the welder for now ... With accessories etc etc.. I was over 500..... I will try again on another day. Thank you for the replyz.
Where about are you located?
May I have your opinion which one would you prefer this particular welder or the Harbor Freight titanium 125 they're both inverters but which one is better for power and longevity?
Really tight on cash but looking to start welding.
Thank you for your time
It's hard to say in terms of longevity. I no longer have either welder, but as far as I know they are both still working. Personally, I prefer the Titanium 125. It has a bit more output and a few things I like a bit better. It's not a huge difference either way, but if I had to choose one, I'd personally pick the Titanium 125. Are you in the US? If so, where about?
Michigan my friend
Thank you
I may have a welder to give away before too long. I am in NW Ohio, not far from Toledo. If you are willing to wait until I'm done with it and meet me in the Toledo area somewhere, you can have it.
@@bigtb1717 ........wow, dude thank you!
Can you weld 1/4 inch with this? If so, any issues...??
I imagine you could weld 1/4", but you might want to use multiple passes, depending on what you are doing and how strong it needs to be.
auto body panel spot weld test give that a try
Will this work for welding body panels on a car?
If so should I use the .30 or .35 ?
Flux core isn't ideal for auto body, but it can do it. I'd go with 0.30", but it shouldn't make that much difference. The big thing is to practice on some scrap material of the same thickness first to get your settings and technique dialed in before starting on an important weld/project.
Thank you. Its a floor panel under the carpet so doesn't have to be pretty It's just a one time job and I'd like to have an all purpose welder when I'm done.
Thanks for the help!
@@stewmeat9261 Sure thing. One thing to consider, I've since reviewed the Titanium Easy Flux 125 from Harbor Freight, and for the price I actually prefer it slightly to this welder. Might at least be worth a look.
I love mine
Just seen your video and I have a question do you know why this machine overheating light goes on
Well, technically it should come on if internal components get too hot. This could result from welding past the duty cycle to the point that the internal temps get too hot. It could also happen if the fan wasn't working properly or air was blocked for some reason. In any of those cases, I would think shutting the welder off and letting it cool down would allow it to work again. If that isn't the case, there may be a problem with the welder.
@@bigtb1717 thanks and keep up the good videos
For 1/16" this machine shines. 1-2mm material is the bane of welding. This welder will pay for itself on the first exhaust system that you repair. Heck, you could make steel belt buckles for fun. Please do some 2mm plate or exhaust like the noisy heat shields with this unit. Good video.
José Duarte Miranda I just purchased one and for some reason I cannot even get a bead. It’s just tiny little balls barely StuCk together . Any idea what settings or what I should be doing?
@@RobMetzgar01 Hello. Depending on the thickness of the material, the amperage/voltage is too low/cold. Check for a good bare metal ground and no paint on the surface to be welded. The company answers emails. Send an email to them with your specs. If the guidance is not a solution, the welder could be a candidate for defect return.
José Duarte Miranda thank you for the info. I’m actually trying to weld a steel pipe onto a brake drum. I have the clamp on the brake drum but it is pretty thick in general. Maybe not enough power for something like that?
@@RobMetzgar01 1/8"material is the optimal thickness for the FC 90. The pipe and brake drum are conducting heat away from the weld area. What do you think about a narrow land/sharp bevel on the pipe, preheating the material with a propane torch, tacking, and welding uphill after you get tacked in place? Root pass, HOT pass, capping passes. As you weld, the material will accumulate great heat.
czcams.com/video/usjIl_we8Ps/video.html
José Duarte Miranda I see what you mean. This may not be strong enough because there’s no way this metal is getting warm it’s just making little pellets that barely stick together. I will check out the link you provided
How this one compare to HF titanium 125. Thank
I prefer the Titanium 125. Not a huge difference, but I prefer the Titanium flux 125. It is slightly more powerful and I prefer how it runs.
What size circuit breaker would you recommend for this machine?
I would recommend a 20 amp breaker/circuit. A 15 amp circuit might work, but you may end up tripping the breaker if you run at full output. I don't have the welder any more or I'd test the draw.
@@bigtb1717 I was asking because I was going to add a 120v 30 amp breaker to my subpanel just for this machine.
@@MrDragonUTube You may find you have use for it eventually, but I didn't have any issues with a 20 amp breaker for this welder.
Maybe I missed it but isn’t this brand made by Lincoln?
Yes, the century brand is owned by Lincoln Electric.
Were you running .030" or .035" wire?
0.035" wire.
bigtb1717 I'm wondering if .030" wire would give better control of burn through on lighter gauge metal?
@@calvinhandley2373 It wouldn't be a night and day difference, but it would help a bit.
Good luck, hope it doesnt short out and become a paper weight like mine did.😀👍
Yikes, sorry to hear yours failed. I know they have a short warranty. How old was yours when it failed?
@@bigtb1717 i got it last may and it shorted out 2/10/19. I was welding a woodstove grate insert. I heard a high pitch squeak ing and it threw the breaker. I turn breaker on again tried welding snd it quit aftr that. Power button lit up but no power to welder, even fan didnt work. I think somewhere on circuit board it shorted.
That's a shame. Inverters have gotten fairly prolific across the welder market, and I think that general reliability is fairly good. Still would be interesting to see how these FC-90s generally hold up long-term. Where about are you located?
@@bigtb1717 yea, i didnt even over use it, couple builds here snd there. I rarely max out settings just within what i was welding. Im located in northeast az. Top secret location, lol. For what its worth i really enjoyed using that welder because it was an inverter. I still have my jobsmart 125amp fc that i mainly use for dedicated flux core. Good luck enjoy your welder, i did for awhile.👍
Well, you aren't that close, but I'll still ask. Do you still have the failed FC-90? If so, is it still in basically the condition it was when it failed?
Good hobby welder
Can you put higher
Or better gun ?
It may technically be possible, but it probably wouldn't be very simple.
Can that weld 1/8 inch stainless stee?
It technically could, but the weld and the area around it would no longer be "stainless." It would readily rust. They do make stainless, flux core wire, but it's very uncommon and I have no idea how well it works.
@@bigtb1717 Thx for the quick reply.
How would this do on a normal muffler? Girlfriend needs the muffler patched and don't want to replace the whole thing or take it to a shop.
It should do okay, but keep in mind that thin material is tricky with any welder, so you will want to practice on some scrap first, if possible. Also, mufflers typically rust out from the inside, so they are often much worse than they look from the ouside. So there could be thin spots other places that burn through pretty easy. Use short welds to prevent heat from getting away from you. Good luck.
Can this welder repair a 2 stroke exGGaust.
Depending on the thickness of the metal it might be a little tricky. But it would probably work.
@@bigtb1717 I got the welder and bought some sheet steel maybe 16 gauge or 18 from diy center. I got an auto darkening mask. So I tried to practice on that and boy I suck. I couldn't even see what I was doing. I guess I need to set the brightness control down on the mask. In addition because I couldn't see the wire fed out and didn't weld so I had like a foot of wire hanging out. I'll get better hopefully. I may be the worst welder in America. Hehe!
This seems to be built almost exactly like the harbor freight titanium 125
Same spool parts almost.
can you use .023???
This welder can only run self shielded, flux core wire. As far as I know, 0.030 is the thinnest flux core wire available.
I used a 75 ft cord. Might be why it’s cutting out. I ordered a 25 ft cord.
I also changed out the clamp.
What gauge was the extension cord?
@@bigtb1717 10
A 10 gauge cord is pretty heavy. With a 75 foot extension cord you should only have 3-5% voltage drop from the cord, max. In what way was it cutting out? If you turned the settings down did it cut out less?
@@bigtb1717 not really sure. Probably was just me but I read to only use a 50 ft length at the max.
Some welders are less tolerant of long extension cords than others. It's possible that the FC-90 is a bit more sensitive than others. Hopefully the shorter cord solves your issues.
Do you have to buy any gas for it?
No, this welder uses self-shielded flux core wire. No shielding gas required. In fact, it cannot use shielding gas, so it can only use flux core wire.
@@bigtb1717 thanks
For body work switch to .024 mig... not flux... the flux causes bubbles later down the road... Flux is perfect for 14ga and thicker..
It's a " I just ran out of gas on my regular welder let me use this one" type of welder for sheet metal, exhaust, lawn mowers, farm stuff or the occasional fender on a car using to tach on top of tack.
what is duty cycle? Tia.
The duty cycle is fairly low when maxed out. I think 20-30%, but I'd have to look it up. Should be enough for home projects, but it's certainly not a production welder.
@@bigtb1717 I mean what does duty cycle mean? Ty
Oh. Duty cycle is just a percentage out of every 10 minutes that the welder is rated to operate. I know that isn't super simple, but I'll explain a bit.
If a welder is rated at 20% duty cycle, that means it is rated to be actually welding for 2 minutes out of every 10. The remaining 80% of that 10 minutes it must be not welding. That could be a continuous 2 minutes, or broken up over the course of the ten minutes. So you could weld for 30 seconds four times in ten minutes, weld for 2 minutes straight, weld for 1 minute twice, etc.
The duty cycle rated is designed to ensure that internal components, power cords, power switches, etc. are all allowed enough time to cool so they don't fail.
The higher the duty cycle, the more time out of ever 10 minute period they can spend welding. A 100% duty cycle means the welder could be running a bead continuously, without any components needing any down time to cool. A 50% duty cycle means that a welder could be running for 5 out of every ten minutes without anything being overworked, and so on.
A short duty cycle means you can't weld as continuously without exceeding the rating and risking overheating the machine. For small projects or projects that involve short beads here and there with a lot of prep work and such in between, a short duty cycle won't be an issue at all. A larger project where you are running a lot of long beads makes a higher duty cycle beneficial.
@@bigtb1717 thx dude just bought a forney
3/8-5/8 stick out, drag the slag
1/8 Phil
...and subscribe.
To much talking ,
Mute it. Then you can sit there and watch silent color film.
lol
Thank you for the video!