The stumble on the EPCs was probably due to the setting on the accelerator pump linkage. There's are 2 holes for the linkage, the outside hole is for a small squirt (stock 1600 or smaller) and you have to move the linkage to the inside hole which is 'big squirt' for engines bigger than 1600...
That is the smoothest running and sounding bug engine in recent memory. I've heard those HPMXs and Dual Webers, like to have clean idle jets, and there are extensions that "supposed to" keep dirt and debris out of them. Yours might have come with those since Empi is up on their game these days, and Weber has some catching up in terms of features! Years ago, I had a 1776cc that I installed dual Dellorto 40s on (before Dellorto went out of business) and I recall they ran great at first, but then the manifold to head joint developed vacuum leaks, perhaps due to heat and warping. Maybe too then, keep an eye out for that joint to stay nice and tight. Hope some of this is helpful, I appreciate you guys and love the channel!
Really appreciate it man we think she turned out pretty sweet. These hpmx do have extensions to help suck air up high away from top of the carburetor where debris likes to collect. Really appreciate your comments they are always full of useful information. Thanks.
you will really like the 74 4340 crank from aa...with the short chromoly rods. it is super smooth running. Now if you want to go a little more extreme and you need a case, get the aa autolinia case cut for 90.5. Put the 92 thick wall in there and go 78 on the crank. Stay with the 110 cam or web 86 with 1.25 ratio rockers (aa has them too) great torque and top end. Those cases have shuffle pins for longer life Plugs for full flow external double cooler, aluminum is better volumetric efficiency. AA heads cut to 94. Still get over 100k miles before rebuild if your not crazy on the rpms. No machine work required other then CC the combustion chambers. Parts are all laid out on my bulletproof engine build video. Except they were out of the 94 heads so I went with 90.5 pistons.
Coincidentally, I have the 5.325 chromoly AA rods and AA 74mm counterweighted crank on order! Couldn’t do a new case this time so I already have AA thick wall 88’s for an 1800. I have to admit that the AA thick wall cylinders had poor cast…fins didn’t line up well at the seams and total flow flow obstruction there with excess material. I did some work there with a dremel and am going to upload that vid soon. However, EVERYTHING else about those P&C’s seem top notch, and they are going great in the last engine we built. I have a question. This 1800 will be for a Bus. So, you like 100 or 110 cam? I suspect 100. Also, I’ve seen you bulletproof build many times, along with several more. I’m a sub, and you’ve taught me more than ya know sir! Thanks for what you do, and checking us out🤙🏼
@@bomberobus I would still go 110 cam. should like the 1800. had an 1835 with a cam similar to 110 and it did not loose bottom end. should be a nice puller in the bus. One of these days try the bulletproof engine when you muster up the cash. Yea the are expensive to build.
I'm impressed that you made the HPMX 40s work with such a small engine. I would have moved up to a set of Kadrons and those would be perfect for your motor. Good work.
@@vintage76vipergreenBeetle Well, I disagree. I've had both Kadrons and 40mm Webers on my 1776cc motor and the Kadrons were so very close in performance as to be almost even with the Webers.
Vacuum and centrifugal advance is actually the best for a street car; the way they came from factory. Centrifugal advance is best for motors that are going to be at the same constant rpms such as race or industrial motors. With vacuum/centrifugal advance the car will run cooler and will be more gas efficient and lose the stumble off idle.
Do you have your vacuum to the distributor routed from one carb? I'm running a Pertronix SVDA with dual 40s and can't seem to eliminate a stumble/hesitation a little above idle accelerating. I've tried both carbs and off one but doesn't change anything.
It is currently connected to only one carb, and stumbles a bit just off idle (if you’re trying to cruise really slow.) if you give it normal acceleration like regular driving then it pushes through the stumble so quickly it’s hardly noticeable. We’ve experimented with every combo of vacuum you’ve described with the same results, but are happy to trade off a STUMBLE for the higher performance. A big FLAT SPOT would be unacceptable. I guess you’ve tried bigger idle jets? I don’t know what you’re running but This engine is a 1679cc with bigger valves and a cam.
I learned that they never will…at idle. I actually run dual 34’s on my 1800cc, and it scoots. At idle it sits so still that I can put a glass of water on it and it won’t even shake. Buuuuut, if I pull the 1 or 3 plug at the distributor, it still responds like those cylinders aren’t firing as hard as the 2 and 4. You just can’t beat the way dual 40’s have a throat for each cylinder. So I’m saving money for some but it’s tough 😂
Usually when you have a engine that small you need to put in 30 venturies. it usually runs better. But the flow of the 40s makes it run. vs the other carbs. 2007 and 2110 like the 40s jetted right out of the box but smaller ones we run 30 vents. I would not Cruse that at 80 with those gears. keep the Rs under 3500 this will make the engine last longer on the highway. over that with a deck lid it will run hot. Im guessing you have the 88 thick walls too...Or 28 vents.
Yes, currently running 88 thick walls and 28 vents. Haven’t really banged on the car since that vid just wanted to know what she could do. Thanks for the input on the 2007 and 2110!
@@FrontyardJ I have same thoughts for same reason. My love for driving VW’s has me needing interstate capability. I’ll see how the 1800 does on it’s own and go from there🤷🏻♂️. Also, 57’ is one of my faves!
Man. Gotta figure out what to do. I got the epc 34 and bigger valves. Prob why I can’t get power. Gonna try the bigger jets and see what happens. Gonna replace the needle and seat too for a Weber one and see if that helps. I think my crank bearings are worn and need replacing. Gonna follow your route and rebuild bottom end. I wanna replace the case but can’t afford it so gonna see if this one still has life in it. 😂
Seems like the bigger valves might hinder the lower rpm but should be good once you’re up to speed. IDK man these Busses are just HEAVY hahaha. Yeah they are killing me with the new case prices!
IMHO you don’t need 40’s for a 1600, and you’ll probably have to jet them down to get optimal performance. But, if was going to do it again, I’d probably get 40’s just so I’d already have them when I build a bigger engine. 34 pros are better gas mileage, con is only one barrel trying to feed two intakes. Vice versa for the 40’s. But like I said, id get the 40’s to be prepared for bigger engine plus they can be made to run good on 1600 too. Id have to try the real Webers though, but they aren’t cheap. In my case, I got the EMPU 34’s barely used at a great price so that’s what I ran. They still go perfectly to this day, but you have to get the Redline kit with quality needle and seat. Best wishes with whatever you choose, dub daily!
Do you mind shareing your build specs? I.E. Type of case, bore x stroke, cam shaft, heads & valves & rocker arms, manifolds, carbs (choke size, idle and mains), Air cleaners? Transmission mods? did you change gears? Diff? Side plate? Mahalos!
Errol Wong single relief case. Unfortunately that's the only case we have to work with at the moment. Thick wall 88 slip in kit from AA × 69. AA 500 series performance heads. 40 × 35.5 valves. Pertronix electronic ignition. Empi 110 cam. Inch and a half tuned 4 into 1 header with single glasspack exhaust. HPMX 40's with the cheap air filters that come with it. 28 venturi's Still playing with the jets but currently running 60's, 140's and 170 air. 32° max advance. Stock 1.1 rockers. Stock transmission. Appreciate the comment man.🤙
Yes sir, especially if you also have some bigger valves. I think you can definitely make it work with 34’s, but man those 40’s wake it up! I don’t know what 40’s you’re thinking about, but I will say 2 out 3 EMPI 40’s I’ve seen lately have leaked pretty quickly, one from the top plate and one from a galley plug. My 1800 runs great with 34’s, but I want some 40’s. I’m just saving to get the webers after seeing so many EMPI leaks.
I wouldn’t cruise at 80 for too long, but it’d be nice to have a flyer tranny one day. Feels like it stops making power around 6k rpm and rarely sees a shift higher than that. Used the stock tins we had on hand.
Welcome to VW’s. Pleasure and pain combined for sure. Yes I have a seal. Those hoses go to a breather box that I have mounted on the firewall, basically I’m venting crank case pressure mostly from where the mechanical fuel pump would be.
Appreciate it man! It's really been a blast to drive. Sorry I don't know much about the transmission yet other than its stock for the bug. She's a 1970. Appreciate you checking out the vid and dropping a comment.
They were stupid hood and reliable. That’s why they sold in the millions for decades and the motor style was used in industrial applications and aircraft. Google two cylinder VW.
wow, that bug is running GGGO0000OOOOODDDDD!!!!
looks like it's just fun to drive
Thanks for sharing the build and info
For sure, it’s a blast to drive, which to me is top of the list for having an aircooled VW. Thanks for checking it out 🤙🏼
The stumble on the EPCs was probably due to the setting on the accelerator pump linkage. There's are 2 holes for the linkage, the outside hole is for a small squirt (stock 1600 or smaller) and you have to move the linkage to the inside hole which is 'big squirt' for engines bigger than 1600...
nice work , 78 buy 88 is a sweet bus combo
That is the smoothest running and sounding bug engine in recent memory. I've heard those HPMXs and Dual Webers, like to have clean idle jets, and there are extensions that "supposed to" keep dirt and debris out of them. Yours might have come with those since Empi is up on their game these days, and Weber has some catching up in terms of features! Years ago, I had a 1776cc that I installed dual Dellorto 40s on (before Dellorto went out of business) and I recall they ran great at first, but then the manifold to head joint developed vacuum leaks, perhaps due to heat and warping. Maybe too then, keep an eye out for that joint to stay nice and tight. Hope some of this is helpful, I appreciate you guys and love the channel!
Really appreciate it man we think she turned out pretty sweet. These hpmx do have extensions to help suck air up high away from top of the carburetor where debris likes to collect. Really appreciate your comments they are always full of useful information. Thanks.
you will really like the 74 4340 crank from aa...with the short chromoly rods. it is super smooth running. Now if you want to go a little more extreme and you need a case, get the aa autolinia case cut for 90.5. Put the 92 thick wall in there and go 78 on the crank. Stay with the 110 cam or web 86 with 1.25 ratio rockers (aa has them too) great torque and top end. Those cases have shuffle pins for longer life Plugs for full flow external double cooler, aluminum is better volumetric efficiency. AA heads cut to 94. Still get over 100k miles before rebuild if your not crazy on the rpms. No machine work required other then CC the combustion chambers. Parts are all laid out on my bulletproof engine build video. Except they were out of the 94 heads so I went with 90.5 pistons.
Coincidentally, I have the 5.325 chromoly AA rods and AA 74mm counterweighted crank on order! Couldn’t do a new case this time so I already have AA thick wall 88’s for an 1800. I have to admit that the AA thick wall cylinders had poor cast…fins didn’t line up well at the seams and total flow flow obstruction there with excess material. I did some work there with a dremel and am going to upload that vid soon. However, EVERYTHING else about those P&C’s seem top notch, and they are going great in the last engine we built.
I have a question. This 1800 will be for a Bus. So, you like 100 or 110 cam? I suspect 100. Also, I’ve seen you bulletproof build many times, along with several more. I’m a sub, and you’ve taught me more than ya know sir! Thanks for what you do, and checking us out🤙🏼
@@bomberobus I would still go 110 cam. should like the 1800. had an 1835 with a cam similar to 110 and it did not loose bottom end. should be a nice puller in the bus. One of these days try the bulletproof engine when you muster up the cash. Yea the are expensive to build.
Great information! I’m ready to gather my parts list and then start ordering for my 1700!
Pull the trigger. It’s fun
if you can fit it in the budget use the 74 counterweighted crank and short aa rods. makes an 1800 which RIPS....
Welcome to the dual carburetors, dual barrel carburetor club. 😎👍
The club fee was pricey, but glad to be on board
@@bomberobus
😁 we know.
Wow so nice! You live out in the boonies, cool
Thanks. It’s so peaceful!
I'm impressed that you made the HPMX 40s work with such a small engine. I would have moved up to a set of Kadrons and those would be perfect for your motor. Good work.
Kadron carburetors, will never be as good as HPMX or Weber's IDF'S. Don't matter what size engine.
@@vintage76vipergreenBeetle Well, I disagree. I've had both Kadrons and 40mm Webers on my 1776cc motor and the Kadrons were so very close in performance as to be almost even with the Webers.
my buddy has a okrasa 36hp case with 1400cc and 40s. on it. just gotta put smaller vents in there.
Nice build it runs great luv tht power
Thanks man it’s been a runner so far
You might want to upgrade your distributor and coil.. it looked like a vacuum advance... nice video...thx for bringing us along...
Thanks Gary, glad you enjoyed the ride 🤙🏼
Vacuum and centrifugal advance is actually the best for a street car; the way they came from factory. Centrifugal advance is best for motors that are going to be at the same constant rpms such as race or industrial motors. With vacuum/centrifugal advance the car will run cooler and will be more gas efficient and lose the stumble off idle.
Show my friend, I have a 96 Beetle Itamar, it drives a lot...😊
Thanks! I like to hear people drive their VW’s 🤙🏼
3.59 Dang!!!! I just Paid 4.89!!! bitchun ride.
Do you have your vacuum to the distributor routed from one carb?
I'm running a Pertronix SVDA with dual 40s and can't seem to eliminate a stumble/hesitation a little above idle accelerating.
I've tried both carbs and off one but doesn't change anything.
It is currently connected to only one carb, and stumbles a bit just off idle (if you’re trying to cruise really slow.) if you give it normal acceleration like regular driving then it pushes through the stumble so quickly it’s hardly noticeable. We’ve experimented with every combo of vacuum you’ve described with the same results, but are happy to trade off a STUMBLE for the higher performance. A big FLAT SPOT would be unacceptable.
I guess you’ve tried bigger idle jets? I don’t know what you’re running but This engine is a 1679cc with bigger valves and a cam.
Almost the same issue on my 1641 I have the dual epc34s and cylinder 1an 3 are not firing well also
I learned that they never will…at idle. I actually run dual 34’s on my 1800cc, and it scoots. At idle it sits so still that I can put a glass of water on it and it won’t even shake. Buuuuut, if I pull the 1 or 3 plug at the distributor, it still responds like those cylinders aren’t firing as hard as the 2 and 4. You just can’t beat the way dual 40’s have a throat for each cylinder. So I’m saving money for some but it’s tough 😂
Usually when you have a engine that small you need to put in 30 venturies. it usually runs better. But the flow of the 40s makes it run. vs the other carbs. 2007 and 2110 like the 40s jetted right out of the box but smaller ones we run 30 vents. I would not Cruse that at 80 with those gears. keep the Rs under 3500 this will make the engine last longer on the highway. over that with a deck lid it will run hot. Im guessing you have the 88 thick walls too...Or 28 vents.
Yes, currently running 88 thick walls and 28 vents. Haven’t really banged on the car since that vid just wanted to know what she could do. Thanks for the input on the 2007 and 2110!
Have either of you ever used what the called the Freeway Flyer Transmission?
@@FrontyardJ we have not…yet. I’d like to investigate it for the Bus’s future, since that’s the road trip VW.
@@bomberobus definitely considering it for my 57 beetle since I'm putting in a bigger engine and plan on driving on hwy more.
@@FrontyardJ I have same thoughts for same reason. My love for driving VW’s has me needing interstate capability. I’ll see how the 1800 does on it’s own and go from there🤷🏻♂️.
Also, 57’ is one of my faves!
Nice running engine
Thanks Gilbert, appreciate it.
Man. Gotta figure out what to do. I got the epc 34 and bigger valves. Prob why I can’t get power. Gonna try the bigger jets and see what happens. Gonna replace the needle and seat too for a Weber one and see if that helps. I think my crank bearings are worn and need replacing. Gonna follow your route and rebuild bottom end. I wanna replace the case but can’t afford it so gonna see if this one still has life in it. 😂
Seems like the bigger valves might hinder the lower rpm but should be good once you’re up to speed. IDK man these Busses are just HEAVY hahaha. Yeah they are killing me with the new case prices!
Great video great work, im looking to install dual 34 weber on my 1600 and I'm curious if the 40 will work better.
IMHO you don’t need 40’s for a 1600, and you’ll probably have to jet them down to get optimal performance. But, if was going to do it again, I’d probably get 40’s just so I’d already have them when I build a bigger engine.
34 pros are better gas mileage, con is only one barrel trying to feed two intakes. Vice versa for the 40’s.
But like I said, id get the 40’s to be prepared for bigger engine plus they can be made to run good on 1600 too. Id have to try the real Webers though, but they aren’t cheap.
In my case, I got the EMPU 34’s barely used at a great price so that’s what I ran. They still go perfectly to this day, but you have to get the Redline kit with quality needle and seat. Best wishes with whatever you choose, dub daily!
@@bomberobus Thank you for the feed back i appreciated all information. Thank you again.
I'm building a 2110cc basically a aluminum cased cb performance and with fk7 cam and dual 44 true webers.. hope it runs that good 👍
I love 2110cc. Stroked out with reliable P&C. Best of luck on the build and I love to hear how it gets along.
onky the best - hahaha in europe standard is 95 octane, best 98. cheers!
Our fuel prices here are still high too. Cheers across the pond!
Do you mind shareing your build specs?
I.E. Type of case, bore x stroke, cam shaft, heads & valves & rocker arms, manifolds, carbs (choke size, idle and mains), Air cleaners?
Transmission mods? did you change gears? Diff? Side plate?
Mahalos!
Errol Wong single relief case. Unfortunately that's the only case we have to work with at the moment.
Thick wall 88 slip in kit from AA × 69.
AA 500 series performance heads.
40 × 35.5 valves.
Pertronix electronic ignition.
Empi 110 cam.
Inch and a half tuned 4 into 1 header with single glasspack exhaust.
HPMX 40's with the cheap air filters that come with it.
28 venturi's
Still playing with the jets but currently running 60's, 140's and 170 air.
32° max advance.
Stock 1.1 rockers.
Stock transmission.
Appreciate the comment man.🤙
Hi can you show, how your solution for the SVDA distributor? Do you connected the vacuum hose to both carbs? If so, how?
What suspension are you running in front if any? Mine is to bouncy
1679/1680cc can be build into 1915cc
Good info, that’s the way I will go now, I have a 76mm crankshaft, so those 40s will be better than the Weber 34s I am running now, 🇬🇧🇬🇧
Yes sir, especially if you also have some bigger valves. I think you can definitely make it work with 34’s, but man those 40’s wake it up! I don’t know what 40’s you’re thinking about, but I will say 2 out 3 EMPI 40’s I’ve seen lately have leaked pretty quickly, one from the top plate and one from a galley plug. My 1800 runs great with 34’s, but I want some 40’s. I’m just saving to get the webers after seeing so many EMPI leaks.
80 mph at 4000 rpm is sweet. What is the rpm range? (top rpm limit) and did you use kool tin ? cheers man.
I wouldn’t cruise at 80 for too long, but it’d be nice to have a flyer tranny one day. Feels like it stops making power around 6k rpm and rarely sees a shift higher than that. Used the stock tins we had on hand.
I am new to the vw thing. Does yours have a seal on the front ? I see you have a breather filter instead of a hose leading to the carbs
Welcome to VW’s. Pleasure and pain combined for sure. Yes I have a seal. Those hoses go to a breather box that I have mounted on the firewall, basically I’m venting crank case pressure mostly from where the mechanical fuel pump would be.
@@bomberobus OK thank you so much for the info
Did you happen to try on the 34s a taller intake by chance..
That’s a negative. He was dead set in the 40’s no matter what so we just embraced the 40 adventure LOL
Superb build, what gearbox are you running?
Appreciate it man! It's really been a blast to drive. Sorry I don't know much about the transmission yet other than its stock for the bug. She's a 1970. Appreciate you checking out the vid and dropping a comment.
What's th he jettings and setting to the carbs
did your carbs come with vacuum port already installed or did ya drill em out?
The carbs have small vacuum ports for the dizzy. But the manifold's under the carbs were not drilled and tapped for balance tube.
@@bomberobus thank you!
How are the 40's running ? Do you still like them ?
Just fired them up after sitting for awhile. Jet was clogged up but they ran well after clearing it up. Still weeping at galley plugs though.
@@bomberobus Thanks for the update.
Sweet video what exhaust is that
Well that one is my brothers, and it’s an Empi Glass pack. Header is 1 1/2 inch four into one.
@@bomberobus thank you
Do those carbs have (out the box -or- potential for) a vacuum signal for SVDA dizzy? And this was a Engle 110?
Yes they do, running good off of one vacuum port right now, but the potential to hook a balance tube between the two carbs is there. Yes to Engle 110
Hmmm 40 hp stock engines were not very reliable. Then you put more than double the hp on it and likely does not increase reliability
True, but I need the extra HP for safer daily driving. Of course these cars were never very safe either, but people will run you over around here.
They were stupid hood and reliable. That’s why they sold in the millions for decades and the motor style was used in industrial applications and aircraft. Google two cylinder VW.
@@sdfilmfolks that’s pretty cool. Seems like they fall into the “less things to go wrong” category due to simplicity.
What is the economy like
Rudimentary measures calculated to 19 mpg. That’s with spirited driving in town….verrrrrrrry spirited.
What cam?
Engle 110
What heads
AA 500 series. Made a vid comparing them to stock heads too. They’re still running good.