How to power up your VW 1600 engine with out rebuilding it.
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- čas přidán 11. 10. 2019
- best deal on goodyear air hose check this out amzn.to/3b5cJvy bolt of performance for 1600 engines.
LInk for the heads.
carcraftstore.com/cylinderhead...
HOLLY WEBBER UPDATE WRONG INFORMATION please see the link below.
• EARTH MOVING 2,200 MIL... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanx Mike! You can always tell the love u have for VW's is genuine! 👍
My motor has the empi street curve distributor with petronix cdi system, stinger pipe that slightly larger tubes, heads has a slight port job, 1.25:1 ratio rocker assembly valves has a swirl job on, carb is a rejetted solex carb. Do have a few sets of carb kit a custom made manifold too run a side draught. Empi, scat etc parts is super expensive in south africa. Majority of bugs and busses has a 2ltr motors in there
If you can find one a holley bug spay is amazing! Especially when rebuilt w some of holleys great tuning kit parts. Once u u dial in that bug spray she will give u a beautiful power curve, and little danger of running lean, like the pict carbs have a tendency to do.
I had a bug spray on my 74 Baja bug when I was
A kid. Was the first automotive carb I ever rebuilt. I wish I would have never sold that Baja. First car I ever got off the ground too. Isn’t to jump it pretty regularly at a old field with a perfect uphill jump would get about 2’ of air on the really good launches. I just bought a sand rail so I am back to wrenching on VW stuff. Brings me right back to my childhood!
No issues running a 1641 in the hot Florida summers. Although I am running the cool tins as well and I feel like they do make a difference. Good tips on the heads.
yea with cool tins you can push things a bit more. I just figure to put big valve heads on is more bang for your buck than 87s those heads would wake up a 1641 with a cam and dual carbs. 40s with small venturis
Mike Fn Garage that’s pretty much the setup that I’ve been running for quite a while now, minus the big valve heads.... they are on my wish list, just haven’t been able to swing the purchase. I know they’d wake my engine up, but life, kids, bills, etc come first.
@@VWJawbreaker yea for sure been there.
Thank you for the information! Will help to push us up the hills
You bet!
Awesome video Mike!👍😎👍
thanks bud
I got my Kadrons for about 300 bucks. Now they're a bit more.
Also changed the venturis and main jets when I went to 1776.
Really wish that this VW guy was my neighbour..clearly a clever man!
trying to do that just search the channel for whatever you are looking for.
@@Mikefngarage any on fitting a vw beetle fuel filter and anything on a cable release for the engine lid from the interior of the car? Cheers Mike, thanks for sharing these videos.
@@silversurfer233 I usually use a keyed lock for the engine lid. that is the best way out. They sell them at Wolfsburg west.
@@Mikefngarage yeah, what about the fuel filter?..any ideas?
fuel filter Use one of those plastic ones. We have never had those kind leak but the glass ones with the interchangeable filter are a fire hazard. you can put it anywhere you feel comfortable as long as it is clamped on the pressure side. or no clamp really needed on the suction side . not near the exhaust.
I'm no vw expert. But logic to my way of thinking, Vw's were never meant to be a race engine, however some very clever people have modded the engine over the yrs. Personally your mild Hp mods would be fine working with motor longevity but if you really want to make the vw burn some rubber Perhaps bolt on the porche motor. Good vid BTW.
People don't like 009s because they don't understand how they work and the tune they're tuning ability is not as such that they can make them work correctly but if they are set up correctly there is performance advantages not necessarily horsepower but it's not all about horsepower performance and horsepower sometimes can be two different things
I have beenwatching the videos. I have learned so much on Volkswagen engines thank you so much for your time. I have a 36 hp VW. It is a 1959 fiberglass body is a 68 maybe into the 70s made by Kilson. my question is how can I get more horsepower out of that motor? once again, thank you.
What about the old rocker swap? Thats a great swap and back in the day u could get a set from a u pull it for literally $5 (or if i was buying a gang of ther parts a set of bus lifters always seemed to end up at the bottom of my tool box, not saying its right or legal but its been known to happen)
please comment like or dislike comments as well thanks for watching.
NOTE CORRECTION ON THE HOLLY WEBER please watch the video linked here czcams.com/video/EXqkg-qBbd4/video.html
Hey Mike. I know you are a proponent of the cool tins and I happen to agree that they do a better job at cooling. I see some people that seem to think that if you are running these that you may not need the lower tins. If you are running the freeway that seems fine but in stop and go that hot air is blowing off the pavement and back up around the engine versus withe the lower tins shooting it out the back away from the engine. I am not sure if the type 3s have similar lower tins like the type 1 but seems to me that you want to blow your hot air away. What are your thoughts? Thanks.
I have 2 of those carburetors with the intake manifold
You should make a video on setting timing and total advance with the timing, including rpm’s
yea for sure gotta think back the basics. yup.
Great Video Mike! Yeah heads make a massive difference!
I ran dual Weber’s “one barrel” about 6 years ago on my last beetle. They’re nice! But..they did jump in price now.
I ran a dual point Mallory dizzy. It worked well! I still have it. Probably won’t play well with my stock solex I have right now though.
Where are you getting those new style lower Tins for cooling? I never saw those before! Please put a link up when you can. It makes sense! Cools the “whole” piston!
Are bigger valves okay for a stock engine?
a set of those heads alone without even changing the carb would make a difference. yea. car craft has the tins.
Lol you have to split the case to put cam in!
And new 1641 jugs are same thickness as 1600
Except down low where it's not a problem still slip in
My future upgrade to my 1500
Thanks buddy 😊
Mike my man, in are garage world as being a geared what is your take
on bolting on a classic judson supercharger on a 1600 cc Vw engine
Looks like you know your stuff Mike
try to get it to idle at 27 advanced with a choppy cam. that's where the 035 distributer comes into play.
Hey mike... just found you. Great info and videos!! I have a aluminum block (new about 15 years ago) CB is adver a new high volume oil pump. I hate the low oil pressure problem at idle when engine is at operating temp!! Have you heard?? Your thoughts??
Without tearing too far into the motor u can always check the condition of the oil pressure regulator, its basically a piston on a spring that opens and closes to divert oil based on engine demand. Also depending on severity of the pressure drop u may need to literally clean the oil galleys and ports. If motor is getting a rebuild this is a step u should do 2x to be sure.
Of course there is the quick and dirty drain a bit of oil, then add about a quart of kerosene or motor flush. Do not drive car w motor flush in oil! Read directions on the bottle and follow them. I let the engine run to operational temp then add a little throttle for a min or 2 then drain, at minimum clean ur screen clean ur magnets, once bone dry install new gasket and crush washers. If im doing a flush i drain it then pull the pan, a surprising amount of aluminum dust teands to accumulate in the corners of the pan and are non magnetic obv. Also stay far away from aftermarket oil coolers (especially mounted in the engine compartment), that vw fan and stock oil cooler are no joke the fan moves a tremendous amount of air. Far more than any little electric fan that will mount to thoes tiny shit oil coolers, not to mention if u put it near the vents u will just block cold air entering the engine bay and at same time it is pre heating the air the motor was trying to cool itself with.
Without going balls out with a dry sump system i have had luck with a deep oil pan w lots of fins is a great help. One last thing when it comes to a cooling system chrome and polished metal are terrible plans, why they make them at all indont understand. There is a reason most radiators are plainted matte black, it is the most effective color to radiate heat. Yes shiny mylar and the like is often seen on heat related components its job in that case is to refect as much heat away as possible where a radiators job is to transfer that heat to a fluid like oil or air.
nice tips brother
thanks for watching.
My Webber runs lovely on my 1600 twin port
"lovely" really sounds like a well tested fuel air ratio.
I thought he said without rebuilding it? /and he shows a brand new head - LOL!
Question: Since you have spare engines lying around, do you keep oil in them or drained?... thinking about when we store them inside or outside for long periods of time.
usually yea and inside.
You mentioned that the AA head has more port volume cast in vs. factory heads. Could you please measure your intake port cc as the ones I measured were way back in 2012. IIRC they were the same or smaller than stock heads
these are totally different heads. Back then they had the stock replacement and they still have them Now they also have these big valve ones with totally different combustion chambers larger ports better flow and bigger valves. Plus you could wedge port them as well if you want.
here they made these about 2 years or so ago.
carcraftstore.com/cylinderheads-stocktowild.aspx
@@Mikefngarage Ive measured the 500 (L3 with stock valve sizes and the 500-420 40x35), 501 (huge port volume possible, 502 (NLA old stock replacements). I have not had or measured their stock 043 clone casting which Tims uses on some of his SS heads. The 500-420 40x35 head had 55cc ports at the time. Wondering if they made a change to the casting since then.
www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=573099
@@DasLuftVolks im not sure on that I just know that these are totally different than the stock replacements. Im not sure what the total port volume is or could be they are great for bolt on power and have way better flow port size valves and combustion chamber shape. Plus longer threads and more meat around plugs. Some of the race heads using stock ones ported are clearly better performance but more expensive.
Would ratio rockers help open the valves up better without a cam?
Yes. You'll feel a difference.
How does adding the tin around the cylinders make it run cooler? it seems like it would hold heat in and make it run hotter. Less air to the cylinders.
air is directed all the way around the cylinders. and constantly moving. Keeping them at constant temperature. directing additional air to the hottest part which is the heads. These are on Porsche and type 4 engines. Later model technology.
No doubt about the type 3 tins cool down the engine somewhat better. Leaving away the deflector plates underneath is clear but what about these small vertical plates at the back side of the engine? They don‘t go together with the type3 tins and neither do the upper cylinder cover plates. At least you cannot screw them down as there is nothing to keep them in place. A gap will occur...
Do you habe any solition for that problem?
Bjoern from Berlin Germany
👍👍👍
You wouldn't need those because those little small ones with the original one which are most of the time missing
Those small tin are designed to work with the small deflector plates that are on the car originally when you change the type 3 you don't use those anymore
Mike Fn Garage well I know and understand. But wäre to put the small engine tin bolts holding the main upper cylinder covering tins down? They stay loose without the two small vertical tins (not the deflector or socalled idiot plates)
@@bjornbremer6123 yea we will be putting that section in the bullet proof motor build. You can just us a nut and washer to replace them but I usually leave those loose. ant there is no gap between much at all. you can see through the small bolt holes. and this does not really effect anything. Most of the cars i see those small ones are missing. However they were a key part of keeping the engine cool without the type 3 tin.
My godson's hell-bent on putting rocker arms on his stock dual-port 1600 and better valve springs he keeps wanting to go with 125 to 1 but I feel that one portal one is better you'll feel it in the seat of your pants I just like to know what you think and do you recommend the set CB performance has that comes with the pushrods😊👍thanks for the video
cb stuff is always good. just a little pricey. I use the AA performance heads and Chromoly push rods. I think they are empi. Check carcraftstore.com. they work good. THe ponchito heads from CB are really nice. I just use the aa ones and port them myself.
mike coulld you talk about what case savers do
good one.....will do that.
Hey Mike. What compression ratio would you recommend for 87 mm pistons(1641) for just plain daily driver, not lookinmg for performance, just a good long lasting type of engine
nevermind, I'll just stay 1600 at 7.5/1 ratio
better to go with 88 thick wall those 87s are too thin and run hot. 88 thick wall then heads like these cut for 90.5. then it will run cool and have power big valves But need to go to about 8,5 to 1. engle 100 cam or 110. Car will rip with dual carbs.
when porting intakes do not cut too much where the intake springs seat at ???????
exactly you gotta be careful and take off what you know wont go through.
cam and case savers
Hi, good day - I have a bit of a strange question. I can get a VW Bus (1968) rolling shell in decent condition (no engine). Another associate has a restored and working stock 1300 cc bug engine, also for sale, and at a good price. Would that engine be able to pull a Bus, or would it be ridiculously underpowered (acknowledging classic VWs are not powerhouses to begin with). Would appreciate thoughts - I have never owned a VW but have always wanted to, so wondering if to jump in via this route.
would be a good idea to up that engine to a 1600. 1300 on the bay window would be more than slow.
@@Mikefngarage thanks much.
Holley is one company and Weber was another.
Hey mate, can we use subaru engine on kombi and put the radiator infront of the car like the last edition kombi 2013?
my buddy has one in his vanagon with the radiator in the front. takes forever to fill it up with coolant. Then he blew a head gasket. I would go 1.9 AAZ diesel turbo or just stay air cooled with aluminum case aa big valve heads.
So if i use subaru engine ,can i make old vw kombi closely like 2013 kombi ? If you want to see the 2013 kombi plz search it on youtube 😁😁
Turbo diesel van sounds like a great vehicle.
Do you recommend rebuilding a motor that's been sitting for like 9+ years even if it still ran before parked? Also does taking the thermostat flaps out affect the engine at all? I took my shroud off and there was none in there lol
Anthony Fuller you need the thermostat and flaps. Your engine will wear prematurely without them
depending on where you are Here we have more problems with the thermostat sticking and burnign up a motor than running too cool and wearing out bearings. IF it is a really cold climate you can slide a board behind your fan for about 2 minutes and let the motor warm up without air then remove it and run 10 40 in the winter. Bun on the motor issue I would run it but it will need new seals. change the oil. and make sure there is no water in it if there is pull it apart. before you run it. I would pull the heads off and change the pushrod seals as well clean out the bottom of the case as good as you can and it should be ok.
@@Mikefngarage I'm up in the high desert in California, Victorville area. I've had people tell me it's cool to not run them for that same reason with the thermostat sticking . But thanks for all the info, I know alot about the overall maintenance but never tore into the block or removed the heads or anything. Do I need to resurface them like any other car after removal or simply just take them off and put them back on? 💁♂️ again, thanks for taking the time out of your day to reply.
@@_aftattoo ;no resurfacing no gasket on the heads. and you have car craft about an hour away nice.
@@Mikefngarage I ran a VW shop over 40 years, never saw a theromstat stick and burn up a motor. Without the therm. and doors the engine doesn't warm up properly and frequently gets gasoline in the oil, wearing out the rings, pistons, and cylinders and then the bearings also. BAD IDEA!.
well you could always pump it full of nitromethane
itll run great... once.
Been mind screwing my engine build for years in a 64 bus. currently stuck on 1776 type 1 idea.
1776 is a good engine. have one in my 13 window. I would have gone small stroker maybe 74 but I had a perfect crank and bearings already in the engine so I just put barrels on it. may be changing the heads pretty soon.
I have a 1776cc it's still dog slow. Needs a cam I guess, never have time to mess with it any more. Been parked for about 5 years now lol.
@@dennisstith2860 it would come alive with a set of these heads. I have driven some with some flow in the heads and they are fast. set of these machined to the proper cc for your deck height. some 40s and your going pretty fast.
@@Mikefngarage ya i dunno anything about cars, helped my dad build the thing back around 2000. I'm just not as enthused about vw as I used to be. Mine looks more or less like a show car, but it's been staying parked in garage on rollers for years. Driving a modern car with a stick is a whole heck of a lot more fun, too. I just don't have it in me to let go of the beetle though, been with me my entire life. But anyway, I have another 1776cc in parts to go together with custom cams, chevy lifter springs and gotta get a kit for both engines to get the damn things to stop leaking oil. what's it called oh yeah breather kits. Yeah.. I also still have the original 1200cc engine the car shipped to the US with and I have a 1375cc which is my favorite of all the engines I have. that 1375cc gets the best fuel economy and works like a fine tuned swiss watch.
Is a turbo a good idea for these engines?
can be but you gotta go H rods. and spend more money. low boost for street is alway ok.
Heads seem to be the weakest point of the type 1. Id like to try the cool tin idea.....after I figure out why cyl 1 is way hotter than the rest.
fins in the shroud? still there or maybe the head tin missing the deflector. or under the head the shild still there.
Does anyone know of a good shop around Chicago that can power up my 1600cc engine?? I'd like to keep the car air-cooled, but the engine performance just doesn't match the look of the car.
What kind of car?
Vw combo proformens
Uh Ok....we all know the holley webber sucked. The single dellorto/webber set up sucks. The best carb upgrade on a stock 1600 dual port is a set of Kadrons.
Hi there!
What type of CR are you speaking about, static or dynamic? thanks!
Ratio of combustion chamber volume to total volume of swept volume plus combustion chamber volume.
you need to get your Holley weber facts right.
yea probably forgot the total specs on them. I used to run them long ago. most of my stuff is all stock now. But it has been 30 years so I am a bit not remembering EVERYTHING. Just what I can.
Mike, how do you determine 28 degrees with a stock crank pulley?
use harbor freight degree timing light. has a nob on it that calculates total advance gotta get one.
@@Mikefngarage But what mark on the pulley? There is no 28 degree mark to align with the case split.
@@BrookShadowRC no you set the timing light itself to 28 degrees. then use the mark TDC. which I believe is the left one. I will be making a video on this pretty soon.
@@Mikefngarage Thank you! Look forward to that video.
Or just get a girlfriend that weighs less... that should do it!
and make sure shes hot. ha ha.
@@Mikefngarage if shes not hot then just leave off her cooling tin?
@@zundfolge1432 is that like a bag over her head ha ha .
Hahaha!!😂 yes! 👏👏👏👌👍
That’s not true at all... i have a 1641 that’s been running just fine for over 11 years now.. just go dog house with an oil filter and make sure your engine tins and seals are there and doing their job and don’t redline the living piss out of it and it’ll last for years.. mine is crossing 140k miles no smoking, no blowby, and surprisingly doesn’t really leak any oil either aside from the crappy valve covers dripping occasionally.. my 1641 takes interstate road trips quite often.. change the oil once a month, put quality gas in it and keep the valves adjusted and it’ll run forever
the cylinder walls are really thin the oil cooler wont help that. but if you like them that is all you.
Mike Fn Garage replacing the stock oil cooler that kills cylinder 3 with a dog house oil cooler that moves it completely out of the way works very well. The only people i ever hear that have problems with 87mm pistons are the ones that either don’t do proper maintenance, they have missing tins or missing seals or they push the living crap out of their engines.. my friend has 87mm AA pistons which are even cheaper than mine in his 70 bus and it’s been running like clockwork for about 3 years now.. change oil frequently, keep valves adjusted and use good quality 91 octane gasoline and it’ll run forever..
Mike Fn Garage was
progressive
This video is completely confusing..
Oh brother, l made thru 1:40 l gone.
Hiiii your videos are realty awesome!!
I have a broken stud on my case
I was wondering if you could send me your email address so that I can send you some pictures of my problem