Hi Bill, I had the same problem with a pannier tank. I changed the rods, and it runs perfect. That was about six months. Still don,t no why. Really enjoy you video,s. Keep them coming. Carl.
Thanks Bill, this has encouraged me to have another go at sorting out my old Jinty, it is the same chassis with a slightly different body. It has been a nightmare so far but has a smoke generator fitted so I will persevere with it.
The poor old 08 sure had trouble pushing that J83 into the workshop 😊 Like others, I've had rod issues as well. I've even swapped rods between locos and ended up fixing the bad one but not breaking the other one. I can't work it out, but they both work, so what the heck.
Sometimes the manufacturing tolerances at the Tri-ang Hornby factory were a bit inaccurate. Is that the understatement of the year? 😄. I bought an Albert Hall that had the same binding problem and it took me ages to figure out that the rod pin hole in one of the wheels had been drilled off centre and it caused the rods to bind up at a particular part of the revolution. It explained why the model from 1973 had barely been run. All I could do was to drill the pin hole in the wheel very slightly larger and it immediately solved the problem. It was quite a challenge. Glad you got this one sorted out. 😊
I don't know about your layout, of course, but I've found that if I try to run older locos (and wagons) with back-to-back wheel spacing as low as 13.5mm they will tend to derail on the modern Hornby and Peco points, as the wheels hit the guide rails and get thrown up.
Hi Bill, yet another great video by the wizard, what magic you do work. Interesting about the magnet and which way up or down they ment to go. Nice to see clips around the layout, how’s that going? All best for now. Marc
Yes, I've found that they aren't exactly the same and are 'sided'. Sometimes I get a loco with them on upside down which shows they are on the wrong sides.
Timely video working on a Jinty at the moment had a similar issue and was shorting out it had a wonky wheel and it was getting stuck to the magnahestion magnet on its way round got it of eBay as a non runner with an electrical problem did have some creative writing but I think the wheel getting stuck to the magnet was the original issue.
@@oobill Thank you. Great videos, was always worried about stripping ringfields.. Your video's have made it quite easy in the end. Glad You showed up in my feed.. cheers
I think it's to do with it being cast as one piece, round windows would be difficult to get the body out of the mold, today of course most loco cabs are cast as a separate item, so have the correct smaller round windows. I filled mine with plastic padding and then drilled a hole when hardened.
I have the exact same model, from the 70's. It still runs very well,, just quite noisy, but I expect it's good for it's old age!!! Is it my imagination or is your main station platform busier with people. Maybe it was "rush hour".
Good to see an old xo4 working well another good video
Errm strange place for a Police Box, unless the Doctor has turned up!
Hi Bill, I had the same problem with a pannier tank. I changed the rods, and it runs perfect. That was about six months. Still don,t no why. Really enjoy you video,s. Keep them coming. Carl.
Thanks Bill, this has encouraged me to have another go at sorting out my old Jinty, it is the same chassis with a slightly different body. It has been a nightmare so far but has a smoke generator fitted so I will persevere with it.
The poor old 08 sure had trouble pushing that J83 into the workshop 😊
Like others, I've had rod issues as well. I've even swapped rods between locos and ended up fixing the bad one but not breaking the other one.
I can't work it out, but they both work, so what the heck.
I recently saw a Jinty rebuild video and the guy said the rods are actually 'handed'...
Another great save Bill, 👍
Sometimes the manufacturing tolerances at the Tri-ang Hornby factory were a bit inaccurate. Is that the understatement of the year? 😄. I bought an Albert Hall that had the same binding problem and it took me ages to figure out that the rod pin hole in one of the wheels had been drilled off centre and it caused the rods to bind up at a particular part of the revolution. It explained why the model from 1973 had barely been run. All I could do was to drill the pin hole in the wheel very slightly larger and it immediately solved the problem. It was quite a challenge. Glad you got this one sorted out. 😊
Yup had the same problem with my Black 5 and making the centre holes a bit bigger solved it. Not in this case though!
@@oobill Yes, you clearly had a different 'manufacturing tolerance' problem to solve with the J83.
as always new ways to get the locos going again
I have one of these, it was my first ever locomotive! a wire came off of it years ago and I never got round to fixing it
I don't know about your layout, of course, but I've found that if I try to run older locos (and wagons) with back-to-back wheel spacing as low as 13.5mm they will tend to derail on the modern Hornby and Peco points, as the wheels hit the guide rails and get thrown up.
13.5mm is pushing it yes. Especially on larger wheels 13.8 - 14.1 is what I aim for depending on the model.
Hi Bill, yet another great video by the wizard, what magic you do work. Interesting about the magnet and which way up or down they ment to go. Nice to see clips around the layout, how’s that going? All best for now. Marc
Will be doing a layout update video soon.
Very informative video thanks..How's the layout update coming along?
Hi Bill, did you try swapping the left rod over to the right side, that has worked on a few troublesome jinty's of mine, great that you got it sorted,
Yes, I've found that they aren't exactly the same and are 'sided'. Sometimes I get a loco with them on upside down which shows they are on the wrong sides.
Does the contact cleaner do any damage to the plastic bushes?
No. Contact Cleaner is very safe to use on anything and evaporates quickly. Oil is much more likely to damage plastic bushes.
Timely video working on a Jinty at the moment had a similar issue and was shorting out it had a wonky wheel and it was getting stuck to the magnahestion magnet on its way round got it of eBay as a non runner with an electrical problem did have some creative writing but I think the wheel getting stuck to the magnet was the original issue.
I tend to knock out magnahesion magnets for that reason.
Hello Bill From Aussie. Love your content. A quick question, What are you using for a cleaning bath? Thank you in advance.
Clock cleaning fluid. It's basically a diluted ammonia solution with cleaning agents.
@@oobill Thank you. Great videos, was always worried about stripping ringfields.. Your video's have made it quite easy in the end. Glad You showed up in my feed.. cheers
I never understood why they made the cab windows that strange arch shape instead of round like the real ones.
I think it's to do with it being cast as one piece, round windows would be difficult to get the body out of the mold, today of course most loco cabs are cast as a separate item, so have the correct smaller round windows.
I filled mine with plastic padding and then drilled a hole when hardened.
I have the exact same model, from the 70's. It still runs very well,, just quite noisy, but I expect it's good for it's old age!!! Is it my imagination or is your main station platform busier with people. Maybe it was "rush hour".
I have an old hornby/triang loco that I would like being looked at if you're interested?
Sir, how about a sound module or a different season on your layout.?