Fast Printing Explained: Hardware, Slicing and More.
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- čas přidán 31. 05. 2024
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The #speedboatrace might be one of the reasons why 3Dprinting transformed forever. Fast printers and speedy 3DBenchy prints are more accessible than ever before. Today, I show how to slice as well as how to print a 7.5-minute 3DBenchy. I am going to reveal a ton of well-kept secrets during the full print of that speedboat! Stick around to learn how you can speed up your prints without sacrificing too much quality.
You can build that printer 247zeroB2 NOW:
• 247zeroBETA2 File Rele...
I used a Voron 0.2 basis for my mods - recommended sources*:
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Premium: LDO Voron 0.2 (3DJake) tidd.ly/41umJac
Good budget: Formbot Voron 0.2 (AliExpress) bit.ly/39kfWdC
Videos mentioned:
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247zeroB2 explained Part1: • 247zeroBETA2 : Motion ...
247zeroB2 explained Part2: Soon!
2.5min 3DBenchy on 247zeroB2: • "3DBenchy" printed in ...
The 1500 mm/s Complex Print: • INSANE PRINT of a COMP...
Helpful links:
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#SpeedBoatRace: • #SpeedBoatRace Challen...
Flow Rate Test: • Easy Hotend Benchmark ...
RepRap Calculator: blog.prusa3d.com/calculator_3...
I used a Voron 0.2 basis for my mods - recommended sources*:
-----------------------------------------------------------
Premium: LDO Voron 0.2 (3DJake) tidd.ly/41umJac
Good budget: Formbot Voron 0.2 (AliExpress) bit.ly/39kfWdC
Recommmended other FAST PRINTERS*:
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Voron 2.4 (AliExpress): bit.ly/3PklmWE
Voron Trident (AliExpress): bit.ly/3yxMaNe
SELECTION of the BOM - full BOM coming soon:
247zeroB2 Motion*:
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247printing Carbon Fiber X-Beam*: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFp...
LDO LDO-35STH48-1684AH - 2.4A/58.5V (actively cooled) DON'T DO THIS!
Voron0.0 z-drive github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-...
Ceramic bearings s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DkP...
Titanium fasteners s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DcQ...
Lubrication (PTFE) amzn.to/2ZTE2rc
247zeroB2 Extrusion*:
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Voron M4 extruder vorondesign.com/voron_m4
LDO 42STH48 2504AC 48MM Nema17 (AliExpress) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DdX...
Mosquito Magnum (5% off!) www.sliceengineering.com/247p...
CHT Volcano nozzle 0.4mm (3DJake) tidd.ly/3VNkxZT
Volcomosq by Nitram • How did I end up with ...
247zeroB2 electronics*
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Only works with V0.0 z-drive:
BigTreeTech Octopus Pro s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEd...
4x BigTreeTech TMC5160pro s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DkY...
or (works with all z-drives)
BigTreeTech Manta E3EZ s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Ddb...
4x BigTreeTech EZ5160(pro) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Ddb...
BigTreeTech TFT35 SPI V2.1 (screen) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DF0...
0:00 Intro and Sponsor RAID Shadow Legends
2:05 Slicers and OrcaSlicer
3:56 Cooling Tweaks
5:53 Speed Up
6:38 Accelerate
8:26 Square Corner Velocity / Jerk
9:14 Travel fast
10:00 Retract, Z Hop and motion
10:47 Slicing Gains Summed Up
12:01 The 07:30 Speedboat print and SECRETS revealed
12:01 Print End and YOUR Quality Check
My modest video gear
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iPhone 11 Pro: amzn.to/2VZYswJ
Smartphone video rig: amzn.to/3iriub5
GoPro Hero 9: amzn.to/2UZI9Q5
FLIR ONE PRO: amzn.to/2UWAe67
Similar to the soft boxes I use: amzn.to/3xRes2d
Similar to the tripod I use: amzn.to/2V1I6mw
*Can be affiliate links at no extra cost for the customer. - Věda a technologie
Support me! 📲 Install Raid for free: raidrpg.com/247printingMar24 and get $100 worth of prizes - an Epic champion Lady Etessa and exclusive 5th anniversary awards 🔥 Also use promo code FESTIVAL5 to receive: 🧪 X50 Magic Brew, 500,000 Silver 👑 X1 Tayrel Epic Champion! Hurry, this offer is available for a limited time only!
📱Link for IOS users to enter Raid Shadow Legends promo codes ➡plarium.com/en/redeem/raid-shadow-legends/
Another has fallen to the dark side
Is unfortunate, but I hear they pay well
I am happy to see that you get good sponsors and totally understand that. The hard and amazing work that you are doing for free to the community is outstanding. And these sponsors make it possible for all of us that you can continue building crazy fast printers!
Great video! I learnt a lot, thank you.
Btw, if you really want want kids, don’t leave it too long, I was in my late 30’s when we had our 2 and I’m 49 now. The kids are 12 and 10 - if we left it any later I don’t know how we would have both coped. You need a lot of energy to raise kids and I can say from experience that you really notice the deficit when you approach 50.
@@Qvintusmcwell think about where that money is from
"underdeveloped and overmonetized"
I don’t know why, but my favorite part of your videos is when you are talking some facts while your printer is printing)
Yeah and for some reason I love his accent 😅 makes me feel good and want to watch more of his vids lol
Oh man, my pleasure!
The master of speed printing and slicing has spoken..... Thank you for your contribution for the 3 printing community!!! 😊
about the slow retracts, if you're printing slower they help not separate the solid filament from the molten filament in the hot end. like since the filament is more molten a fast retract just pulls the filament off of the molten blob and you basically don't get a retract. This can show as popping bubble that follow retracts from trapping air between the more solid filament that was pulled away from the molten plastic. If I have a really oozey maybe wet filament a slower retract can help but I dont go below 30-40 mm/s. Or at least that what my experience seems to say
Yeah, I've run into that with one of my printers, had a nasty habit of clogging up the PTFE tube within the hot end.
Running speed on PLA, I hadn't even bothered with retractions or z hop for BLO
A similar video focused on faster but useful parts (technical parts) would be useful. For example, some of the settings which don't affect quality should be mentioned first (and kept to values which are still reasonable for quality parts), and so on
My secret, I prefer "Aligned Rectilinear" infill oriented at 0 degrees (so the lines run the length of the boat), for higher speed. It shaves a fair bit of time as the lines are straighter & longer. I learned this trick by analyzing the Bambu Benchy sliced files.
And my video production is closer to 2 hours per minute of video time, and my videos are getting longer... 😅 Always excellent videos Albert!
Thanks a lot Alan - I’ll check this out for sure - never heard of that infill style!
@@247printing It is an infill pattern in OrcaSlicer & PrusaSlicer, no idea about IdeaMaker. It is the same as Rectilinear except instead of alternating infill direction perpendicular to each other on each layer the lines all travel the same way every time.
@@MandicReally I was thinking exactly this while watching. Use the longest straightest lines possible. So Aligned Rectilinear also just called Lines in Cura makes sense.
Your are the man that got me hooked on speed boat racing. Been watching the progress diligently. Keep up the great work.
Congrats on being sober. I did not know that! I stopped drinking this year and have had one drink so far. I found myself coming home Thursday/Friday from work and the only way to relax was to pour a drink. My mornings then were rough and I run a small farm which I'm focusing on more and more every day. Love the tips and tricks!
Great video. I enjoyed seeing the specific steps you configure on the slicer side. Definitely gave me some things to think about. I don’t think I’ll ever be able to push it as far as you but maybe I can give a few printer profiles a little more oomf 😊
Mr mod bot! I watch a lot of your videos! Been so much help to me a highschool kid who just built a Voron micron+
@@ashers_workshop thanks for the comment and thanks for watching! I wish I had 3D printers to play around with in high school. Enjoy the Micron+! I’m hoping to build one later this year 😊
Thanks a lot for watching and commenting, Dan - It's a pleasure!
exactly what i needed, thank you so much - now i can actually do a sped boat on my speedy 2.4
I love Gran Turismo starting sound.
Yes, sir! Childhood memories 🥰
Congratulations on stopping smoking! I stopped some years back too and it was the best thing i did in my life. Cheers from across bohemian forest :P
I bought Voron 0 because of your videos ;)
Hope you enjoy it!
the wait has finished!!
good for you getting that nice Raid money!!!
i hope they payd him enough to create a even more insane printer :)
Thank you, just thank you. I am trying to optimise a older printer and this helped such a lot and when you talk about facts etc. of your printer is simply amazing. Btw. We are neighbours, I live 15mins from Bavaria in Hesse;-)
Ei Guude...😉 un' 'n schöne Gruß aus Mittelhessen!
Ich danke dir so viel - Gude und frohe Ostern nach Hessen!
@@247printing 😂🤩👍👍
Thanks so much for this excellent tutorial!!!
OK, answering your questions:
* 15:26 What do you want to see on a 247printing livestream?
I would like to see how you start and plan a project (like your Voron 0.1).
Do you start from parts? Or in CAD? How does a new project come about? What do you do before the actual build?
* 16:30 Why do default profiles have so slow retracts (30mm/s)?
Even my first 3D printer (a cheap Ender 3 clone) came with a 70mm/s retraction profile…
If I had to guess I'd say, they try to reduce stringing by retracting slow and wiping/z-hop at the same time?
I just did a 13 minutes benchy and it was the scariest thing I 've done with my poor voron. The absolute bottle neck was the flimsy ikea beneath it.
*I went to a 6mm nozzle and set the heat to FULL and I am getting SMooooTH prints and fast*
What do you mean heat to full? You put 280°C on a pla bench at super fast speed? You must has super fast cooling as well after...
I used straight infill oriented to hold up the box in the back,
I did manage sub 7:00 on my nearly stock Sovol sv07, but it wasn't pretty, still reasonably recognizable
also threw the numbers with a .75mm layer height and 1.4mm line width on a .8mm nozzle.
I ran that sucker at max feed 90% of the time.
the thing wanted to collapse if you touched it before it cooled down post print
Thank you for the benchmark numbers. I am considering a calculated under extrusion to deal with the
The weird thing was that I could achieve nearly the same time out of my also nearly stock SV04, the flow rate was actually higher than my SV07 if pushed a bit, higher temps, diamondback nozzle... though limited by the 120mm/sec max travel, Orientation got me to 160mm/sec. that was also with a fat nozzle
Thanks for sharing and posting this video
Love your unscripted parts!
Thanks for the tips! I'll try to use some of it on my trident 😊
Respect, this looks like a high speed challange .
wow thanks a lot for the dry run, answered some questions about my build, noises were normal. only a few others to rule out now lol
v3d's test_accel macro when traveling from front right, to back left, will create a low frequency virbation throughout the entire chassis along with a groan, almost like a v-wheel. I can't reproduce it during any print and every other possible angle is silent, but the macro gets it every time. wondering if it's just a coincidental resonance frequency.
That's a really nice summary for going fast! I did a similar video on getting the best quality.
that is AMAZING!!! wow!!!!
I just got a v0.2 kit today this video is just in time
Looks impressive! Are you using inout shaper?
Can you explain, what you changed from the OG Voron 0.1 to do speed printing? What is necessary, what helpful and what to avoid? Is a bowden in this case preferable over a direct drive? Cheers from Hamburg
Not really doing speed boat myself since high VFR hotend loves to string which is an issue for functional parts. I managed 800+ mm/s at 19k acc with just 0.7A 24V on LDO motors which translates to 64mm3/s (at 0.2 layer, 0.4 line) which is not really possible on a V6 style hotend without melt zone extension that impact stringing. currently pushing 30mm3/s ABS on rapido which hard capped my benchy at >10m
another annoying thing I found is non-external perimeters also impact the tolerance so all my perimeters are pretty much limited to 200mm/s for quality parts. also PA is slightly dependent on speed so if you more than doubled your print speed you need to re-tune PA+EM.
did the Uber secret PLA you were showing off a little while ago ever get released?
Hi Dom, thanks for watching and commenting. Maybe one day I'll come back to this... it's complicated...
nice video!
Thanks!
The reason the settings are very conservative is, not all printers are made equal. So you aim for settings that "should work" on all printers. That is why the speeds and retractions are set so low, as I have started to tweak and push the numbers higher on my Voron 2.4 350. Printer config max speed is 300, but I can't get much better then 200 because of standard PLA even with a Revo High flow. High speed PLA I can get to the max 300 speed because of the Revo HF, its been a matter of tuning the Jerk speeds and accels and watching to make sure no belt skipping happens either. Oddly the new Neptune 4 Max I have is "supposed" to be faster but it hardly will ever reach 500mm print speeds because its a bed slinger. So the Jerk settings are going to be slow because of the bed and its massive size. Great to have a large form printer, as even the 2.4 350 I have is quite big too. Just funny they claim 500mm speed, but it really can't do it even using their Elegoo Cura profile.
That is another part of the reason the settings are so low by default. Not all printers have high flow nozzles, and most people will be printing with Normal PLA which has a lower viscosity. High speed PLA melts better and flows better in how its formulated, that is why you can get such crazy flow rates with it. Granted using normal PLA with a HF nozzle WILL help get better speeds when using cheap PLA but to get speed boat level prints, high speed is required. Usually HSPLA is a few bucks more then the normal stuff so its not going to brake the bank if you buy just HSPLA.
how are you so good at riffing during print footage? amazing vid!!!
Thanks a lot, what does riffing mean? I only know "guitar riffs"!
@@247printing like a show host/comedian when they are passing time on stage and just kind of rolling with the vibes to keep everyone engaged. exactly what you were doing while the print was going :)
I was 43 when I had my youngest child. I was 23 when I had my first. It's rewarding, yet frustrating.
Another secret: I bought my first 3D printer 3 years ago. But sold it before using it because of a battle with cancer. I bought my second 3D printer last year, and printed a pokemon when I first got it. I packed it up and didn't touch it again because I was intimidated by the idea of slicers and g-code and all that. Until a week and a half ago. I pulled out my Fokoos Odin 5, set it up, and printed a Benchy. Ten days later and I've got the basics down in FreeCad, I've designed and printed a ton of store shelves for my wife and daughters Mini Brands addiction, printed out some Thug Life glasses, and have become quite familiar with the simplicity of the hobby. It's intimidating, even for a guy that can do anything. Breaking that bubble is the hardest part.
Thanks a lot for these insights into various aspects. All fingers crossed that you won the fight against cancer for good! Learning new stuff can come along with anxieties (and therefore procrastination) for sure. But mostly, when mastering a topic, the feeling coming along is priceless - you physically printed your own functional designs - how cool is that!. Lately I described the same for learning CAM on the Carvera video lately. Breaking that bubble is absolute key!
really good video and I was able to increase my speed drastically. But unfortunately I have the problem that a blob appears at the seam. What can I do about it?
0.3mm top layer width nets a result halfway between 0.4mm layer width and ironing, a good tip for higher quality mechanical prints.
Awesome video as always man!
Id definitely like to watch some livestreams! Like doing a walk trough of your 247 V0 build and other printers.
But first please release the B0 files I really want those widened feet! 😂
Can one aquire the cooling solution and tool head you are using? I'm currently building a 0.2 for speed racing
Any chance you are going to sell one of these printers as a kit one day?
There is a chance!
ahaha that sneaky raid shadow legends ad :D no way :D
Btw nice heap of information in one video!
Glad you liked it!
What would an endurance speed benchy challenge look like? Printing say 5 to 10 speed benchys as fast as possible one after the other like mass production. Could you optimize for automatic part ejection and printer wear minimization? What about keeping the motors cool enough?
Are you planning to publish your printed upgrades? I would pike to integrate some if them to my V0.
I have 2 questions:
1. are there any slicers or klipper features that can set x and y axis accels/speeds different? Im sure this would really improve speed printing :)
2. what does the wife think of the loud 247 printer?
1. Yes, there is an experimental build - search for "Dalias" on Annex Discord
2. She loves the printer and what I do and has never complained about noise. Though I am hidden in the basement when working on videos :-)
What wattage of nozzle heater cartridge do you use?
How long do your belt bearings last when printing fast?
There never was belt wear since 2021
Man giving away so many secrets and I never agreed to his terms, muahahaha!
Hey there, loved the video. I would recommend a few things:
(personal note, think about kids, if it's too late you will never see your grand children, and that's one of the most important things in any mans life)
3d printing recommendations, mechanical stuff:
Replace all of the 3d printed plastic parts, with 3d printed titanium parts from PCB way, you could save a few grams (the parts holding the linear rails)
Next try to remove the part cooling fan on the hotend, do you really need that?, you have huge fans cooling it off already, maybe improve the side ducts to be closer and thinner (more accurate).
Do you need the thick high flow hotend?, doesn't a normal one work with a CHT nozzle?
Have you ever tried printing with a 0.6mm nozzle?
Have you done k-value calibration, that can improve corners (speed up prints) a lot. I was able to speed my ender 3 up by 50%.
These are all recommendations made with common sense, maybe one of them is good.
Thank you for the content. Have a nice easter, take a break with your loved one, best regards from Switzerland.
I think that usually people don't want to touch and broke when things are going on... So the retract speed instead of 120mm/s is commonly 25/30/40/50 because of upgrading small steps so you don't broke your things... Is there a retractable speed test so anyone can measure their extruder capabilities? Would be glad to do some like that... Even though having a direct drive extruder... Thanks for all your sharing and thoughts! 🙏
have you ever looked at chilled air? maybe from an AC unit? or outside on a cold day? maybe that would help the overhang on the bow ❤
Very cool video, very much enjoyed it! Well done for being sober and not drinking alcohol, well not drinking alocohol by Bavarian standards at least!
What do you think about the recent Speedbenchy records being set by extremely modified Ender 3s? Do you think you that the Voron 0 can reach those speeds if you went all in with crazy motor setups and gantries that don't even look like beams anymore? As far as a livestream goes, I'd love to see you push things until they break XD It's one of the things I've enjoyed watching on your channel, like on your A1 mini review the fact that you pushed it far enough that you got strange cooling artifacts and we got to see the bed move up and down to compensate for warping.
Maybe he should put 4 motors for the XY Gantry like I saw someone do on a 2.4 ab motors in the back and another 2 motors in the front
*ABOUT DRINKING: My Dad had 5 brothers who all smoked and drank regularly. They all died at about 58 years of age on average. My Dad never drank or smoked and worked out regularly and is staying active playing tennis everyday. My Dad is now 94 years old and still feels like a kid!*
*Eating healthy, avoiding alcohol, stopping to smoke and being very active changes so much... Surely also helps 100% to live way longer!*
since alot of pople buy plug n play they dont want to tweak on their own.. this is a nice video for them. have u ever tried to set ur solid infill to 90 degrees? when i do my speed prints i prefer it set to 90 degrees. ive seen it saves some time and less stress on the motors.
You should invest in a tornado generator for even more cooling, i’m sure some Bond villain has one laying around for cheap 🤪
Maybe you could get bigger motors and put some cnc'd fan grills on them with one of those tiny noctua fans
Can you print fast but only for internal support structures?
That boat quality is about as good as I could get on my custom CoreXY but mine took about 15 min. I think I need to upgrade my belts because my printer is a 420mm bed so the belts are super long.
Good belts make a world of difference at the length you're talking
You are awesome. Speed as hell... but to produce something with great quality while others produce a poop... Ly! Thanks for all the tips and tricks
The quality of the benchy is really good considering that it printed in 7:30. Everyone needs to keep in mind that a stock Ender 3 can't do this. Voron's are beastly printers and can take this kind of punishment.
How about subambient cooling? ;)
I'm wondering.. does increasing speed on conventional, good printers decrease their lifespan and or decrease quality over-time?
oh my, and here i did 12:00 (including homing, preheated!) benchy on a mechanically stock SV07Plus and it looked like a benchy :O
I probably need to make a #speedboatrace video then i guess
Not sure but doesn't throw a flsun a 7 minute benchy out at stock hardware?
The print head looks like it's teleporting around you print bed lol. This thing should be named "The Flash"
5:17 that would be true for Cura, Slic3r and its forks use a different model for calculations
How do they calculate flow rate? Can't imagine another way. Cura has a flow cap value? That's new to me!
@@247printing cura assumes that the extrusions are rectangle-shaped, but slic3r and its forks assume a pill-shape - a rectangle with semicirles at its ends. so orcaslicer printing at .25 tall and .45 wide with 106mm/s would only be 10.5mm3/s. to get 12mm3/s you'd need to go at 121mm/2 (because the pill shape has a smaller area than a rectangle)
@@fishandchipsinnit Wow that's cool to know!
Try usng concentric top/bottom patterns
You might of wanted to put a warning of "dont try this at home" xD
lol NGL im excited to see how many people destroy their printers trying to print worlds fastest
You can improve the center of balance of your moving mass. If you look at your printer the Y rails are positioned much lower than the moving mass. If you place everything on the same plane as the belts then every motion will be much more efficient. It's like throwing a spear. If the energy is going in the same direction as the spear and passing right through the center point of it you will have a very long throw. So my suggestion is to remake the printer so that all rails are on the same plane in Z and the x beam is on the same plane as the rails (no top mount) and also make sure the toolhead has it's center of mass on the same plane as the rails and the belts are also on the same plane in Z. This will also drop the requirement on evertyhing being super stiff as there will be less torsional effects so you can make things much lighter. I'm looking at your xy joints specifically, those can be aluminium probably and save 150g of weight. You can also go 4WD maybe, although it's a very small printer. Or maybe wider belts.
Voron zero barely has 150g of printed parts
@@travistucker7317 The XY joints alone weight 150 gram. Those can be reduced to 50 gram and made stiffer by using CNC aluminium and also titanium fasteners. Also the center of mass matters. If the moving mass weighs maybe 350 gram now then a reduction by only 100 gram will be a huge difference relatively. However the whole printer can be redesigned for better center of gravity, that will make a huge difference in reducing secondary vibrations and leave only the funamental resonance and produce a very clean spike on the resonance graphs.
@sabahoudini i think you are talking about the entire gantry with extrusion and bearings? Lighter gantries exist, of course. Xy joiners are like 15g per side already. The bearings probably weigh more. And you will save something, but not much with ti screws.
@@travistucker7317 Trust me dude, I've been chasing grams on my voron and everything adds up. I know this one is lighter than my 2.4 but if you take off the moving mass (everything that moves in Y) you will see it weighs more than you think. However the torsional rigidity and center of mass is more important for print quality. The way the linear rail is fastened to the CF beam is a weakness and the rail can wbble on the CF beam if done improperly. You need a printed insert and a screw that goes all the way through otherwise it will not be stiff. I see many things that could be improved.
@sabahoudini We started on xy joiners and are now on the entire moving mass. All 4 stock joiner printed parts are 30 grams. Other than bearings and screws, that's it. There's not much to shave there. Seems like you could do much better working on a lightweight tool head. I think using Albert's gantry setup should get you where you want to go unless you just want to build a printer. His entire gantry and toolhead is 175g.
What have you done already?
i feel like your livestreams could go a couple of ways. Either it would be just you working on the printer and meanwhile talking with the community ( kinda like nero3d) , there is really not a lot of ways where a 3d printing livestream can go, while being entertaining. I guess you could design a from-scratch printer with chat on livestream where you discuss the disadvantages and advantages of your design choices to chat and answer questions (you could put VOD's of that on your channel) It would be very valuable to people who want to learn about designing 3d printers and propably CAD design in general. Like a made from scratch printer that you design ENTIRELY on stream and then you release the files to, while being able to help and teach other people along the way.
Thx! I could watch and comment speedboat videos for example - what do you think?
Live Stream, It would be good to see tuning max speeds
I was not aware that the fans are so loud 😮😮😮
@247printing I found somebody currently realizing an even faster concept for core XY (due to less gantry mass).
Curious if he'll succeed with just 2 carbon rods as basis?
Video title: "Celeritas World's Fastest 3D Printer Concept, Introduction, CroXY with Carbon Fiber Tubes."
czcams.com/video/WXUGSUj6rJo/video.html&lc=UgxrVja4UMZj3UaXs2B4AaABAg.A2hV4gDI9A8A2iInIk648K
I'm sorry that this comment is slightly out of context for this video.
Thx for sharing, I was wondering when someone finally does exactly that - needs to be extremely fast!
Can you do a review of Matt the printing nerd's THE 100 printer? A really interesting and cheap high speed printer
Super interesting for sure, but so many other projects/videos in the backlog
Can you print nylon or pc that fast ?
🙏
Why didn't you turn the benchy 45 degrees?
Doesn't help here
That's fast...
what about infill combination
Zero difference. Capped by flowrate as you just double layer height of the infill. I should have mentioned this, thx!
@@247printing Sounds like you might be able to extract more speed by uncapping the flow rate only for infill if possible or by uncapping flow rate and actually restricting just outer wall and top layer speeds, allowing some under extrusion.
I like to dance naked in front of my pets
...Figured i owed you a secret in return, great vid, fascinating watch and insights.
Now THATS a secret - I bet your pets enjoy 🕺
@@247printing The hamster has a thousand yard stare, I think he needs therapy 😀
Day 2 of asking for stls for cooling and tool head solution
👍
@@247printing oh wow you actually replied! My hopes of being able to somehow getting ahold of them increased by alot! :)
@@247printingcan one ask what lube you are using for your linear rails as well? :)
You mean without the dry run it would sound like onlyfans?
I just want to stand up and introduce myself. I am a benchyholic. It's been about 4 day's since my last benchy. To me it's not important to make 7.5, but to make 7.5 with quality. I find that for fast speeds the flow seems to be lacking. I can see this in your prints also. What gives... Either the toolpath is not on point, or there is some reduction in flow?
I have worse quality on my ender 3 v2 Neo 54 minutes
Rip, the only thing i cant print with good quality is a benchy.
Future civilizations will make such fun of us.
In the ruins of ancient London:
"Sadly, they didn't achieve world piece and destroyed the ecosystem so they disappeared shortly after the fourth industrial revolution"
- "But it looks like they did achieve a 3-minute benchy!"
thanks for this video but I'm still disturbed by the "secret PLA" used in your fast videos, as it hinders the repeatability of these achievements
1 hr per minute is standard. you even learn this at university,
Awesome, I didn’t learn this at CZcams University 😅
As always great content but make kids before it's too late
Mobile game seriously? You're worth better than this... You're audience is educated, not 10 years kids..., you should find better sponsor
There is no impact on the content or on 247printing per se and you can just easily skip the ad (see time stamps) as well as not play the game.
There is no need for complaining. Thank you for watching - btw.: Crysis 2007 is one of my all-time favorites - kids like that game as well ;-)
@@247printing common, your content is excellent, and your audience has technical mindsets. Proposing a mobile game that aims to suck money by abusing cognitive bias, targeting vulnerable people, seems a poor choice. I'm sure you may contact technical firms as sponsors (related to technical fields: like 3d printing, technology, electronic, etc.), more in adequation with your content and audience.