Great tip on the grease, most ATV wheel bearing failures I've seen are due to moisture getting behind the seals and if you fill it with grease it's much harder for water to get in and do damage.
EXCELLENT VIDEO! I just finished cleaning up! My 2004 Honda 450 Foreman has needed a wheel bearing since last fall. I picked up the exact same bearing that you used. Followed your step by step instructions and did the whole job in 2 hours flat with no air tools! Definitely going to subscribe! Cheers from Ontario Canada!👍👍😁
Thanks for the 2 hammer trick. You saved me a ball joint, and a lot of time & frustration. All the other videos I watched made it "look" easy, but skipped showing how to do it.
One thing about the All Balls brand,and most other aftermarket sealed wheel bearings like them is they tend to come with less grease in them than should be in them...Take a fine mechanics pick,and work the seal off one side(this doesn't work with the steel sealed bearings),and fully pack the entire bearing cavity with marine ep grease,reinstall the seal,install bearing,pack all around it with marine ep grease behind the seals before reassembling..100% upgrade/mod over oem bearing design..Deeper.
thanks for the video. I took my foreman to the Honda place about 4 years ago and paid 350 bucks to get them to change it... after watching your video I ordered a new bearing for 25 dollars and changed it myself.... you saved me tons of money!! thanks!
That is why I always use a marine spec'd ep grease...Figured that out back in the early 80s on my 4wd hubs which when water speed into them during deep water crossings it would sorta mix with the grease inside...Once I swapped to marine grade grease I no longer had that trouble,and never had rust in the bearings,or races again...Now they have the sillycone seals available for a lot of applications which won't dry out,shrink,warp as easily,and I'll be glad when they work their way 2 the atv world
The lift is a home made copy of a popular design snowmobile lift. It was first made with a screw jack that I used an impact gun on to lift the vehicle but then adapted an electric actuator to it. Some other manufactured units use a boat trailer type winch to lift but that requires a mast for the winch which makes it more cumbersome.
I use a 10" tapered punch and hit the ridges on the inside of bearing race. Heat from a propane torch will help and I have used a mig welder and run a bead all the way round the inside of the race. This heats the knuckle and gives you something to hit on with a punch.
Glad to be of some help. The wheel is a 3M rolock bristle disc. Rubber fingers/bristles with abrasive imbedded that come in green/coarse, yellow/medium, and white/fine. They work great for cleaning off old gasket surfaces and general metal prepping. Similar to those brown scotch-brite discs but I like these better
I would like to say thanks for the video it is a real life saver I am 15 I was riding my dads fourweler and the bearings went out so while he was gone for 5 hours i bought new bearings and installed them and he got back and didn’t even notice 😃
Hey I just did this 2 days ago but I did the brackes had to undo the the cylinders and the wheel bearingings but on the ball joints where you used to hammers just get you a spilter dude ways easier just sharing some advis great video
I always pop that seal on the bearing and fill it with grease and put the seal back in the bearing seems the bearing last longer if riding through much mud and water.
Once again you have shown me the way. 1000 thank yous. What do you call the little yellow clean up wheel on the small air tool? Didn't know about the moly grease. Thanks again.
Hey, great video. Very helpful so far. My bearings were all busted up inside the housing and came out in pieces. How can I knock out the bearing housing now that there is little to strike.
@TheCaperfish I bought it at Princess Auto, they call it a Ball Joint Separator SKU: 8004135 the price now is $35. Harbor Freight in the US has them but only as part of a 5 piece kit.
Thank you very much! That worked perfect...new problem. The inside race of the bearing is stuck on the axle. Very frustrating! Have you ever run into this problem and if you have how did you get it off? I tried the heat from the propane torch but no luck. Thanks!!!
Another quick question snocrushr if you please. What make/model is the ATV lift your using in this vid? I saw a neat garden Tractor lift the other day and it looks similar. Cheers
Great video,I will be using what I learned very soon.Thank's In other applications like this,I fill the void 1/4 to 1/3 full of grease before I re install a seal,then I don't have to monkey around putting grease on the end of my finger and trying to fill the void between the new bearing and seal. Did the new bearing not come with a snap ring? I don't remember seeing you installing 1 PS. where about's are you from in SASK.
At 3:40 in the video I use 2 hammers, one on each side of the A arm where the ball joint goes through. Striking there caused the tapered pin of the ball joint to be forced out of the A arm.
I use a cut off wheel on a grinder to cut a slot 3/4 to 7/8 way through the old race then a cold chisel in the slot and hit it hard, should split the race. Danger, flying pieces of metal, use protective wear. good luck.
Great video! Will a ball joint separator for domestic and import cars work for removing the ball joint? Just curious if there is a different size separator for ATV
at 12:00 i just tried for 3 hours to get the knuckle back on. and once i get the top ball joint in, the bottom ball joint is about 2 inches off and there is no way in hell to get it up to where it needs to be. i put the bottom ball joint in and the top is off two inches. I dont understand. does the knuckle have to like be pressed onto the cv axle or something for the damn thing to go in enough to give me enough room to get both ball joints on??? wtf i dont get it.
+1795magicmoney1795 Don't know off hand what the problem is but it sounds like you may not have the axle all the way seated in the hub bearing or the CV joint may have come apart inside the boot.
after putting new bearings and new seals in then reassembling front hub etc the front wheel is still wobbly what have i done wrong i did notice the new bearings were easy to remove and replace can any one help me please
Great tip on the grease, most ATV wheel bearing failures I've seen are due to moisture getting behind the seals and if you fill it with grease it's much harder for water to get in and do damage.
EXCELLENT VIDEO!
I just finished cleaning up! My 2004 Honda 450 Foreman has needed a wheel bearing since last fall. I picked up the exact same bearing that you used. Followed your step by step instructions and did the whole job in 2 hours flat with no air tools! Definitely going to subscribe! Cheers from Ontario Canada!👍👍😁
Glad it helped
Thanks for the 2 hammer trick. You saved me a ball joint, and a lot of time & frustration. All the other videos I watched made it "look" easy, but skipped showing how to do it.
+Glenn R Glad you found the video of use and thanks for posting comment.
Cluster trouble shoot
Perfect!!! Just what I needed. I knew I'd figure it out, once I got in there.
But knowing ahead of time sure is sweet. Thanks
Thank you! Always nice to watch someone else do it first. Saves on my figuring stuff out time ;-D
Thanks for watching.
One thing about the All Balls brand,and most other aftermarket sealed wheel bearings like them is they tend to come with less grease in them than should be in them...Take a fine mechanics pick,and work the seal off one side(this doesn't work with the steel sealed bearings),and fully pack the entire bearing cavity with marine ep grease,reinstall the seal,install bearing,pack all around it with marine ep grease behind the seals before reassembling..100% upgrade/mod over oem bearing design..Deeper.
thanks for the video. I took my foreman to the Honda place about 4 years ago and paid 350 bucks to get them to change it... after watching your video I ordered a new bearing for 25 dollars and changed it myself.... you saved me tons of money!! thanks!
Great guide, we just swapped out the left, and on to the right in a couple days, the two hammer trick worked amazing.
That is why I always use a marine spec'd ep grease...Figured that out back in the early 80s on my 4wd hubs which when water speed into them during deep water crossings it would sorta mix with the grease inside...Once I swapped to marine grade grease I no longer had that trouble,and never had rust in the bearings,or races again...Now they have the sillycone seals available for a lot of applications which won't dry out,shrink,warp as easily,and I'll be glad when they work their way 2 the atv world
thanks for the video. found it very helpful. my bearing came out in about 12 pieces. it was really messed up.
The lift is a home made copy of a popular design snowmobile lift.
It was first made with a screw jack that I used an impact gun on to lift the vehicle but then adapted an electric actuator to it. Some other manufactured units use a boat trailer type winch to lift but that requires a mast for the winch which makes it more cumbersome.
Thanks for the great step-by-step directions.
nice how too.doing my '98 foreman right now.damn bearings are completely shot on right side and frozen in.gotta love AC/DC snocruhr
I use a 10" tapered punch and hit the ridges on the inside of bearing race.
Heat from a propane torch will help and I have used a mig welder and run a bead all the way round the inside of the race. This heats the knuckle and gives you something to hit on with a punch.
Awesome video, really helped me out in changing my wheel bearings, THANK YOU.
Glad you found it helpful and thanks for the comment.
Glad to be of some help. The wheel is a 3M rolock bristle disc.
Rubber fingers/bristles with abrasive imbedded that come in green/coarse, yellow/medium, and white/fine. They work great for cleaning off old gasket surfaces and general metal prepping. Similar to those brown scotch-brite discs but I like these better
awesome video, thanks for the info, will definately help me replace the bearings in my atv soon!!!
Hey thanks for the video I'm doing my trx450 today I live in winnipeg too
This video helped me tremendously! Thank you!
Thanks bro. I got to change mine. Thanks for a refresh course
that looks like a very well engineered little machine, i love hondas:-)
Great I found it, great video BTW thanks for taking the time to make it .
I've done the hammer thing without a backup. I can see how it would work better with, say, a sledge on the other side. Thanks.
@mrsargemeister Agreed, the correct sized bearing driver and a press would the ideal way to go.
I would like to say thanks for the video it is a real life saver I am 15 I was riding my dads fourweler and the bearings went out so while he was gone for 5 hours i bought new bearings and installed them and he got back and didn’t even notice 😃
i just did my front bearings looking at this video my quad is a 1988 fourtrax trx300fw and its the exact same process !
Hey I just did this 2 days ago but I did the brackes had to undo the the cylinders and the wheel bearingings but on the ball joints where you used to hammers just get you a spilter dude ways easier just sharing some advis great video
a splitter can tear the boots
@sserddA1 It's a 3/8" drive 18 volt and very light and handy but for car wheels I would go with the 1/2" drive 18 volt.
Thanks for watching
Thanks this really helped me
Great video. Can you tell me how to separate the two pieces without the separator tool?
great vid bro, thanx sooo much
I always pop that seal on the bearing and fill it with grease and put the seal back in the bearing seems the bearing last longer if riding through much mud and water.
+CheckEngineLightOn Yes, anything to keep the water and mud out can help
Great video
Once again you have shown me the way. 1000 thank yous. What do you call the little yellow clean up wheel on the small air tool? Didn't know about the moly grease. Thanks again.
Great video,helped a lot
Thanks
please come to florida and change the front wheel bearings on my 2003 honda rancher 4x4 ES you make it look so easy on the video
Hey, great video. Very helpful so far. My bearings were all busted up inside the housing and came out in pieces. How can I knock out the bearing housing now that there is little to strike.
Thank you so much!
Thanks! Best shop music!
Glad you like it!
@TheCaperfish I bought it at Princess Auto, they call it a Ball Joint Separator
SKU: 8004135 the price now is $35. Harbor Freight in the US has them but only as part of a 5 piece kit.
Thank you very much! That worked perfect...new problem. The inside race of the bearing is stuck on the axle. Very frustrating! Have you ever run into this problem and if you have how did you get it off? I tried the heat from the propane torch but no luck. Thanks!!!
@Hitoyamotha Thanks for the comment
How do you know how far to beat the bearing in or does it snap in to place somewhere
Not sure about a Skyline but all all wheel bearing replacement on a drive axle would be a similar operation.
@pringlesjuteau71 Glad you found it useful
@snocrusher thx mate.. this should save me mechanic labour costs thx again.
Another quick question snocrushr if you please. What make/model is the ATV lift your using in this vid? I saw a neat garden Tractor lift the other day and it looks similar. Cheers
Great video,I will be using what I learned very soon.Thank's
In other applications like this,I fill the void 1/4 to 1/3 full of grease before I re install a seal,then I don't have to monkey around putting grease on the end of my finger and trying to fill the void between the new bearing and seal.
Did the new bearing not come with a snap ring? I don't remember seeing you installing 1
PS. where about's are you from in SASK.
Hay you done this video in Saskatchewan hay i live here as well im trying to do my berings tonight just haveing a little trouble :(
so I wounder do you have a video where you rebuild a axle in a foreman ? Nice video you show great trick with the 2 hammers NICE JOB
Where did you get that ball joint seperater
nice vid thx
My local Honda powersport dealer sells aftermarket parts and accessories as do many motorcycle,atv, snowmobile dealers. Another source is ebay.
At 3:40 in the video I use 2 hammers, one on each side of the A arm where the ball joint goes through. Striking there caused the tapered pin of the ball joint to be forced out of the A arm.
I use a cut off wheel on a grinder to cut a slot 3/4 to 7/8 way through the old race then a cold chisel in the slot and hit it hard, should split the race. Danger, flying pieces of metal, use protective wear. good luck.
What make is that spreader you have and where did you get it , I can't find it anywhere ? Thanks
so im not a mechanic but my nissan skylines ball bearing needs replacing, can i do what u showed?
@huerdon Thanks
Alright, thanks for the information although I didn't use it... I ordered mine from Dennis Kirk.
Great video! Will a ball joint separator for domestic and import cars work for removing the ball joint? Just curious if there is a different size separator for ATV
Yes the separator I used in the video is a universal automotive unit.
good video, although I wouldnt recommend driving the bearing home by hitting the inner race. Should only be driven on the outer race.
cant get the axle nut off mine been trying 4 like 3 days
I wish you would have told me what the torque was
How did you get the old bearing past the lip where the snap ring goes ?
Most of the time, if space permits
The year. Year of the machine.
2000
own a torque wrench? what wheel bearing torque?
@veggiepowered Would like to show you how in person, but the best I can do is the video.
In my experience a lot of wd40 and a punch and hammer work well to
Mine won't come out that way .
Have a look at my response to guitardiveguy (this video) he was having the same problem and I gave him my suggestions.
putt some wd 40 or simillar might help
at 12:00 i just tried for 3 hours to get the knuckle back on. and once i get the top ball joint in, the bottom ball joint is about 2 inches off and there is no way in hell to get it up to where it needs to be. i put the bottom ball joint in and the top is off two inches. I dont understand. does the knuckle have to like be pressed onto the cv axle or something for the damn thing to go in enough to give me enough room to get both ball joints on??? wtf i dont get it.
+1795magicmoney1795 Don't know off hand what the problem is but it sounds like you may not have the axle all the way seated in the hub bearing or the CV joint may have come apart inside the boot.
Sorry not at this time but maybe in the future.
after putting new bearings and new seals in then reassembling front hub etc the front wheel is still wobbly what have i done wrong i did notice the new bearings were easy to remove and replace can any one help me please
Sounds like the knuckle that holds the wheel bearings is wore out, I have seen this before.
Is there any other way to break that balljoint apart if you don't have the proper tool you used?
At 3:22 of the video I use 2 hammers to pop the ball joint.
My bearing is in pieces and can't get the out part out any ideas?
If you have access to a MIG welder weld a bead around the inside of the remaining bearing race. the heat will allow the race to almost drop out.
which model dewalt is that impact?
18 volt 3/8 drive
the hardest thing is getting the dang cotter pins out. My least favorite thing.
Where did you buy the bearing kit?
seeped*,sheesh,need to put 2 into my typists ear...
Giving the torque specs would have been nice.
🤣
This is definitely not real mechanic work. I didn’t hear any cursing, and not a single tool went flying across the shop.
Great video though.
junk bearings, waste of time puttin in. oem's are priced that way for a reason.
Where did you get that ball joint seperater
Lazar polushkin See comments below for info on separator.
snocrushr where did you get the bearing?