When Your Lifter Release Attempt Fails (Stuck in Bore)
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- So your lifter release didn't go well, and now your lifter is stuck in the bore from you trying a bit too hard to get it to release. Well I have a solution to fix that and some tools that can help.
If I offer a home made tool it will be found here
www.crazedperf...
Lifter puller
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Automotive technician
Omg Thank you! I am facing this same issue. Aluminum block and previous mechanic used your tool and got the lifter stuck so tight I had to weld a rod inside the lifter and hammer the sob out. Now new lifter is real tight and I was going to hone it out. Now I going to make a tool like that. This is my second time with a stuck AMF lifter. The first one was an iron block and your tool worked perfectly.
I used Motor Medic put it in the oil , ran my truck at idle for 20 minutes the first day then the same thing for 3 more days , by the end of the 4th day the engine was quieter than ever before I then had the DOD turned off by a guy with HP tuners ,so it stays in v8 mode all time. Runs better than ever and gas mileage has improved by 2 mpg on average.... might not work for everyone but it worked for me
Just got the tool, I cannot express how much I hope this works. I was quoted over 3800 to replace mine on my 08 silverado
It's why I DIM (DIY).
2007 Classic with 4.8
Just got my tool today from you. going to put it to work by the end of the week.🎉🎉
Mine on my personal vehicle was stuck so bad that I has to use my slide hammer with the vice grip attachment to get it out. I then honed the bore until I could get a lubed new lifter to pit perfeclty. Before assembly I cleaned the motor out with a ridiculous amount of clean oil to flush any debris to the pan. Changed the oil twice and disabled DOD. Runs like a charm now! I have a 13 Yukon btw.
Thanks for all the good advice.
It just struck me that you are from Glencoe! Just bought the tools, you do great work my friend!
Thank you very much bro I did what you told me to do with the tool it worked perfectly that pushrod shot out like a pellet gun thanks very much this man knows what he’s talking about
Great video.
I think there is a market for your tool. Great video again. After buying a 2014 Escalade ESV with 105 K miles, I watched your videos and decided to immediately buy a tuner to disable AFM to avoid these issues. I'm hoping that pays off. I think GM needs to hire you as an engineering consultant, but they may want some failure and obsolescence to drive sales??? The next issue you may wish to tackle might focus on the ridiculous GM magneride shocks and struts... do you recommend buying high quality aftermarket and tricking the computer with a resistor? Is there anyway to diagnose a suspension failure message without a GM scan tool? My tuner DTC reader will not give me a specific code. Keep up the great work.
You should definitely be marketing your tools. As simple as they are, tool company’s would be very interested.
Very nice videos.
I sell a lot of them
great video! Because people like you, we come to find help on CZcams university.
I just open a L83 2014 and lifters are stuck, #2 cyl has exhaust lifter with a lot of play, (loose by 1/8”) cam lobe looks with little bit of damage not shiny, will try this i saw in your video and may contact you to get tools. Thank you
Made my own honestly worked great
Hello to disassemble that lifter you have to blow air into the little hole on the side of it and it will all come apart.
I made one similar using the old lifter and a wobble joint a couple of old push rods
I need that clean out tool! Great invention put a patent bro😅. Nice video let me know if it’s available. I already got the release tool from u👍
Absolutely should never beat on the lifter all your doing is causing more damage and the lifter WILL stick again DO IT THE RIGHT WAY full DOD delete kit
love your videos and want a lifter clean out tool,I could make mine out of the damaged lifter?You are a special kind of guy and very detailed,Now to pull my head and pull out my damged lifter___
That's a tool that would be great to have also for checking the bore hole and clean them up just in case there is an issue you didn't know was going on with the lifters on the other cylinders if you have the heads off anyway...
I did the tap trick (or light air hammering actually) and the lifter released and out shot the pushrod. Put the pushrod back in, torqued the Rocker back to specification and turned the motor over by hand about 3 times.... started up vehicle and it sounded great. I was afraid to let the vehicle deactivate the DOD cylinders so when driving I put the gear selector to "M" and pressed the + button until the gear selection indicator displayed "M5". Drove fantastic. Went on freeway and changed to M6, still ok.
Came off freeway and was slowing down, while rolling around 30-40 mph I shifted back to "D" and a few seconds later it went into limp mode and Christmas Tree'd the instrument cluster.
My question is:
What will happen if I just block the oil ports to the AFM lifters? Will I just get a check engine light or will it go into limp mode again?
2012 Yukon 5.3L with DOD (obviously lol)
The VLOM mod alone works for a little while but I'm sure it will through a permanent code eventually and possibly land back in limp home mode. Best thing to do is send pcm off to lt1swap.com right before you take it apart.
Your videos are very detailed and get down to the root cause of the afflictaed machine. Am curious. (Have never heard anyone mention this theory,strangly enough). Do you think there is any correlation with plastic lifter trays,causing a lifter to end up in it's collapsed state? It seems that once the lifter tray bores gets stretecthed and worn,this could cause lifters to 'walk',,and rotate slightly and be in a continuos bind of varying degrees. In other words ,,would be interesting to get a new 5.3l motor and replace the plastic trays every 50k miles,,and see how long this motor would go without a lifter snafoo. The downside to this conecept is,,of course you'd be pulling the heads each 50k miles to do the job,,,which doesnt seem like a real practical solution. What about some fab shop making billet lifter trays of aluminum? Once the initial lifter tray was perfected a jobber shop with an CNC machine could crank this out pretty affordable,i would think. Just my idea,,,which isn't much. Thanks again.
Gm lifters are crappy. There's nothing to fix crap.
I have a 5.3l truck it seems the lifter is pumped after sitting a bit, and then once the cam makes 2 lifts it sounds collapsed and starts missing. It is AFM deleted. That be a junk lifter and no need to use this tool correct?
loosen the sleeve all the way and put a small hose clamp on it to reduce the diameter on the end
As usual your videos are excellent. Great coverage and detailed explanations. Thanks
I used your tool and my lifter came up. I ran the truck for a few minutes perfectly. Next start up it stuck immediately. Should I do it again?
Shaft....released...🤭 Good video very informative all jokes aside!!👍🏼
Skeet skeet 🤣😜
Excellent 👍
Are we trying to save this lifter,,I'm confused 😕 currently 2011 lt silverado teardown the heads are next
Follow up to my main lifter release trick I talk about on my channel. This for if someone gets way to aggressive doing my lifter release in a aluminum block, or if they attempt the release with the improperly made tool perhaps.
Alright, so I’m at a stopping point with my truck. The tool worked amazing by the way. My issue is that when I get it to release, and I put the push rod back in, I’m not sure If I’m seating the locks back correctly. Sounds silly, but I took the engine apart twice now. Get the lifter released, push rod goes back in, I put the screw driver on it and tap it a bit and I don’t really see it moving or hear anything different after a couple of hits. I put it back together, and drive it for like 30 seconds then it messes up again...any ideas?
Just a side note...Everything runs perfect up until the point of putting it in drive, and giving it some gas. Then the lifter messes up again. Pretty sure I’m messing up on the whole screw driver handle on the push rod part...thanks for any kind of reply.
Did you do the tune and/or vlom mod? You need to at very least do the tune. If the system activates it will fail again.
CrazedPerformanceRepair I did not. How do I get the tune? I’m on a base in the middle of the desert. No shops close. Also, if I just mod the vlom it won’t collapse again?
Thinking about just buying the already modified vlom. So when I fix the lifter, get it unstuck again, and install the modified vlom, it won’t mess up as soon as I start driving again? Or is this tune absolutely necessary?
You should probably do the VLOM mod or the already modified VLOM. As for the tune situation you have several options. One, you could purchase something like HPTuners and do it yourself. Two, you could get a range device for a temperately solution. You could also send your pcm to LT1Swap.com for a affordable option but it will take time for shipping.
CrazedPerformanceRepair I appreciate the reply. I’m ordering the vlom from you today. Need my truck back to 100%. Thank you for the advice. By the way, the Air Force loves your tool. Already showed a bunch of mechanics on base.
@@tallahassee6162 That is awesome I have sent out a couple to service members on duty now. Glad I can also help serve this great nation in my own way.
What if you spray lubricant on the stuck lifter before pulling on it?
Hi how mane hours is the all labor for one lifter ?
cylinder #6 2015 Silverado 5.3l thank you for the grate Video
I found that getting a socket on it and twisting the lifter as you pull also helps.
Thanks for the videos, great job! Lifter release seems to have worked for me, have not tuned off DOD yet, but after release, and your “disable dod to drive to the tuner shop” technique, I’m still pickup up a misfire on the same cylinder even after clearing codes. Should this be a concern, or is that typical until DOD is turned off?
It is of concern, did you check the spark plugs? Might be fouled out from the lifter.
CrazedPerformanceRepair I did, the plug looked fine, but just to eliminate that, I switched the plug and wire from 2 and 6. It has zero lifter/valve noise, drives fine but the idle is just a little rough when in gear foot on brake, Idles fine in park...and of course it still have the stabilitrac light and check engine intermittently, only drove it about 5 miles, hoping to get dod tuned out on Monday and I guess we’ll see. Thanks for the reply!
@@bhess55 I would check compression a couple times quick on that cylinder just in case. Something doesn't seem right.
CrazedPerformanceRepair will do, thank you sir! Already had two shops recommend engine replacement so I really have noting to lose at this point!
Can you just tap on the rocker arm on the push rod side to unstick them?
You would have to get really luck for that to help. In most cases that will just drive them in even more and possibly damage the cam/lifter roller.
Help please!
If you find that your bolts were all very loose, not even finger tight. is there a chance that you can tighten them back? Would that pressurize the engine and unstick the lifter? Replaced sending unit &screen , helped but not the noise- after watching your videos I checked the bolts and they weren’t even finger tight.
A few things happened that I feel caused this.
Ran out of gas- I know- it was very stupid but I was in a hurry and well.. that will teach me!
Bought a gas can- btw I was holding up highway traffic so let’s say I was panicking-
Tried starting without enough gas in it.
I was finally able to unstick faulty can
Got enough gas to make it to the gas station, everything was fine, ran great like always-
got back on the highway 5 miles down the road, the truck starts shaking- I immediately get off and pulled over. Sounds horrible but drives fine, drive it 10min to my house but then starts shifting hard- only in 2nd gear. Just curious if I could have multiple issues because of gas and if not pressurizing cause of manifold plate/ vlom. Please help
Tightening the bolts won't fix the collapsed lifter. You will need to do the full lifter release trick. Also running out of gas had nothing to do with it failing, but the loose VLOM very well could have.
If you message me on my website you're more likely to get a response, I'm surprised I seen this message so soon.
If the non hydraulic lifter has has spun 60 degrees and is now stuck on to the board will the board be affected if I pull it out the the top? I have people telling me it’s not a good idea for it to come from the top
I used your lifter release tool, and it released the lifter. Put an everything back together and had a loud tap or knock. Took both heads off and replaced all of the AFM lifters Canada back together and still have the tap or nock. It runs great when you first crank it and then 15 or 20 seconds later it starts knocking. I pulled the valve cover off after it started knocking and cranked it up with the valve cover off the lifter that I released was not moving at all. Please help.
My lifter is only sticking when the engine is warmed up a bit, so I’m not sure the lifter board clean out tool would clean it out when the engine is cool?
That's likely not a lifter bore issue. You probably have something else going on.
What it mean when you have little on your rocker arm
I'll buy one.
Crazedperformencerepair.com
I have a 2011 chevy Silverado 5.3 engine number 7 cylinder had a stuck lifter got it done and now it smokes at start up
Check the PCV hose for oil inside it. You probably have a ton of oil in your intake from a valve cover issue.
Wouldn't a DOD delete be a cheaper option, unless there was cam damage?
Patent your tool ideas😁👍
If the tick is intermediate does that mean it will pop out easier
How do you use one for a Chevy Astro van 2000
The lifter release trick won't work on a 2000 Astro van. It's not equipped with AFM. However, the lifter bore reamer tool should work if it was an early LS based engine. But I don't believe LS based engine was ever in the Astro vans. Am I still work on the older small block too though, I'm not sure what size lifter bore It hasn't it. I've never had an issue with lifter bore in SBC.
Just wondering if there are any updates on getting a stuck lifter out that the spring has come off? I have a 11 Silverado vin3 5.3 and the #4 intake lifter has spun, and the lifter is very stuck. I'm pretty sure the cam lobe is shot because there is very little movement of the lifter when I rotate the crank. Can I push the lifter out after I remove the cam or will it fall to the oil pan? I was thinking I could have a magnet in the cam opening to get it before it fell all the way out. Didn't know if that would work or not, any suggestions ? You have been very helpful to me in the past on a Yukon I asked you questions on. Thanks again for that and the tools and bushing you sell.
Got it out this morning. Used a slide hammer hooked to vise grip. come right out.
Instead of pulling them through ive seen them taken out through the bottom by turning the crank
You would have to remove the camshaft for that.
Do you not have to drain coolant for this?
Could not release #7 intake. Oil sensor screen looked plugged - likely cause. Pulled head, used this trick to pull lifter - thank you. Decided to pull both heads and change all lifters. With new lifters would you just leave VLOM unmodified? Some people just toss the oil sensor screen, heard of this? Thank you.
You could probably get away with doing that. I would still tune the system off though.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thank you for the quick reply.
So on my 07 Yukon SLT 5.3 Flex with Deactivation. My low oil pressure code came up. I changed the oil and filter and oil sending unit and screen. At start up the oil pressure is between the first mark which I think is 20 psi and 40 psi the warmer it gets the better the pressure gets to its about 50 psi going down the road. Any ideas? Engine cylinder Deactivation Solenoid or lifters , or sludge in my pan?
WHAT MEAN LIFTER Active or nonactive?
So I just got your tool today. I plan on using it and modifying the vlom. I should be getting my ecm back tomorrow from lt1swap.com. So if by chance the tool doesn't work, do I just pull all the lifters on that side I have the stuck lifter and replace them with afm lifters because I'm not doing the full dod delete?
Hey I have a jeep with a lifter ticking a bit at idle then going away with a small amount of rpm . How should I go about fixing this ? Should I replace all the lifters? Should I take the old ones out and clean them ?
Does the engine displacement end in a 7? If so through it away lol.
All jokes aside, try doing a major flush on the engine first. If that doesn't help they are likely just getting worn out. It might be time to replace them.
Can you use a regular push rod from the same model I stead of the tool?? I thought I heard you say it before in 1 of the other vids??
Pushrod has to be machined down and shaped to use it. I build a very specialized tool now that works much better.
Have you ever tried this with a 3.5 ? I have a Impala same problem misfire on 5 and car has 259,000 mi can you help me I don't have alot of money and need my car
Attach a set of Vicegrips to a slide hammer.... much easier.
Many times that will pull the spring portion off.
Quick question will it be good to use it anyway after pull lifter out? Also when getting old lifter out is it always good to replace it with a new one?
Use what the tool? The only time the tool is needed is if the lifter bore is damaged. As far as replacing lifters I try to convince the customer to go with all new lifters on the bank of cylinders being addressed.
I have a number one lifter stuck it's on exhaust side an I can get it to free I'm not sure if it's the valve or what could you help me plz
Shoot me a message on my website with details. CrazedPerformanceRepair.com
You should be in tooling development business
there are videos showing the damage from using the tool?????
No real way to see the damage with a camera. The lifter doesn't get damaged, just the aluminum gets pushed against the lifter a little. This makes the lifter bore tight.
Have you thought about a patent and having larger quantities made and sold in stores? LS 911 kit!
Lol yes I have been tossing the idea around.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair
Good luck! List all revisions and and any other possible variations so its can not copied and work with a variation.
Dude.... you are selling tools that destroy people's engine blocks.......
Have you thought about what micron level common oil filters are able to filter out??? Nevermind how far these chunks of metal have to travel to get to the filter.
What about the excessive lifter bore clearance and how that effects oil pressure loss and future failures....?
This is insanity....
@@JerseyFrank007 🤣🤣🤣 Speaking of microns, I'll bet you wear a mask for covid thinking that the holes 1.4billion times the size of the virus will protect people! And those droplets wont evaporate immediately like every other similarly sized droplet in the world. 🙄 Calm down Karen its fine.
@@micahap1559 .... what the hell are you talking about? No... it's not fine.
Where can I buy your lifter release tool?
CrazedPerformanceRepair.com
where can I buy this tool
www.crazedperformancerepair.com/product-page/lifter-bore-reamer
Lifter exploded like mine? Look in the oil pan and realize what needs to be done. Shortcuts don't work.
Wasn't exploded at all, not all failures are the same. I have ample proof on my channel that some shortcuts can work very well. However your comment is usually the case. For example: many have tried to shortcut my already shortcut and skip the required Tune out and VLOM mod. Then they are disappointed when the lifter sticks again.
I have an 03 trailblazer 4.2 inline 6, n I have a tick or knock noise, sounds like a sewing machine, as I rev up, sound gets louder, but doesn't go away, I know its internal bc I took belt off and noise still there, oil pressure always at 40 psi. Not sure if its common for lifters, though engine has almost 300k miles
Does the sound come from front cover?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair actually it does, but when I crawl under it it sounds louder, but it dont sound like a rod knock, it sounds like it's on left side somewhere, n those engines take a while to tear down.
@@James-929 you prob have a timing chain issue of some sort.
@@James-929 have you tried seeing if noise is less with belt off yet?
I have, its first thing I tried, with serpentine belt off noise is still there, that's how I was able to determine it wasnt external as I was hoping it would be..
The bore tool you made how do I get one it's not on your site I'm having the same problem
I haven't put them up yet, plan is to make some today. I was going to wait to put them up but I suppose I will try and get it all done by tomorrow. Try again tomorrow I should have it up but will only have a few on inventory for now.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair well I will buy one how much you thinking this tahoe is costing me lol
Well, I am making them right now and feel the first version will end up about $50-$75 but I am still trying to work out how much time I have into them. I had one guy tell me he thinks they could easily sell for $100 but I feel like that might be a little to much. What do you feel like it is worth? Be honest lol. As for how much your total job is costing you? It depends on what all you are replacing.
The tool is now available and on the website.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair well the other tool is about 149 dollars so 50 sounds good too me or even less you said it in your video it's all leftovers stuff So basically you are recycling And I'm using it for one bore i have problems with on my tahoe but I have other vehicles they have same engines I really like the ls engines so I'm going to keep it in my tool box! Lol
How much for that tool to clean the lifter hole
It's on CrazedPerformanceRepair.com. unfortunately I think I'm currently out of stock. I can make more if you pm me on the website though. I'll just need a couple days.
Would I be able to use that tool to get to the lifters in the back on a 98 trans am???
no
I need one of those tools
You can purchase one on my website www.crazedperformancerepair.com
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair already did 👍🏽
is it always the intake?
Yes, seems like it is. I think it's because of the extra size adding weight so the locks bind easier.
Where I buy the tool kit at
www.crazedperformancerepair.com/shop
Hey were can i get that pice bro
Are you looking for the lifter bore reamer?
Dude open up a patreon account for donations!
Where do i order the tool?
Crazedperformancerepair.com
What brand good lifters for tahoe 2011
Where are you located sir?
Minnesota
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair how much will you charge to do a job like that thanks
@@antoniomendoza1571 message me on my website or Facebook for what you are looking to get done. I did a full DOD delete on this one per customer request if I remember correctly.
So I have a dead lifter but it's not ticking. Rocker arm and everything are solid and do not move even when I crank it , I see everyone with collapsed lifters and the rocker arm is lose , mine is not lose. Is this still a collapsed lifter?
You might have a lifter spun in the bore from a bad plastic guide. After it is set for several hours, use the starter relay circuit to jump the starter. When you jump the starter watch the rocker arm closely when it first starts to move. If the rocker arm moves a few times and then stops it is a fun lifter. The rocker should be able to move at least seven times consecutively without stopping before you can say it's not a spun lifter in stock the starter from engaging. If the lifter has fun it will have also damaged the camshaft. This means it's time for a full AFM delete.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thank you sir. It was a collapsed lifter and cam still looked good. Had one more question, is there a certain way the non afm lifters go back in?. I see they have a little hole on one side for oil it seems. Just wondering if they went in a certain way
@@darrellmorales6523 the non AFM lifters can go on either way as long as the rollers on the cam of course lol.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair lol. Sweet. Thanks man
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair hey man quick question. So I replaced that lifter and installed afm disabler and everything was good for a couple of weeks and now it collapsed the same lifter. U have any clue on that?
Any Idea of what this sound may be?
czcams.com/video/lnWUaX7Kg0E/video.html
I went to work and realized my oil light was on as I was on the highway, as soon as I pulled up to work, the engine shut off and wouldn't restart. I went and got oil and it started, but now makes this sound. easy fix? or a new engine? any recommendations?
Was it low on oil? How low was it?
can you make one of those tool that you make for me and let me know how much i $$ i send to you please
www.crazedperformancerepair.com/shop
Why don’t they just make a taller lifter 🤷♂️
That won't help or solve anything.