DIY: How To Make A 110v Diesel Heater Wall Adapter For AROUND 35$
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- čas přidán 7. 12. 2023
- So you ordered a Diesel Heater and didn't realize it was 12 volt?
Me too.... Let's remedy that for around 35$. This is very simple to do, and all items are readily available on Amazon
A 110v wall adapter is a must if you're running this in a workshop, greenhouse, etc.
No need to Tin the leads of the cord if you do not wish too
Links to parts needed:
Power supply:
a.co/d/90yn2q8
110v wall cord:
PLEASE NOTE: THE SWITCHED CORD HAS OPTIONS FOR LONGER VERSIONS, cheaper options are available with a quick search THE ONE LINKED IS 1.4 FT (SHORT)
Long 9ft UN-SWITCHED
a.co/d/aTokSpa
Short 1.4 ft SWITCHED
a.co/d/0HkjZyb
Thanks for watching, if this helped you, please like the video as that helps me :)
EXTRA:
Weller soldering iron tips
a.co/d/0bucbIm - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I'm glad to see someone admit their faults. I always tell someone that if you don't know take 5 mins and look it up. It's better than breaking something or worse. I do know that I've been told by people that run waste oil on their trucks to only run a mixture around 80% diesel and 20% oil. I've never tried it because diesel parts are expensive and I'm not made of money. Love the videos though👍
You could definitely run both of those heaters on the one power supply as long as you stagger the glo plug startups (couple of minutes each), as the run time draw is a fraction of the start up draw.
Yes, startup amps on a very similar diesel heater was approximately 8.5 and running amps was approximately 2.5 on 12 volt supply.
If you are worried about a power-outage making it unable to do the cooldown. You can add enough 14v capacitors/capacitance, in parallel to the 12.9 output, to last long enough for the cooldown process.
Or, just plug the 120ac side into an Uninterruptable Power Supply.
Or, just be offgrid, powering your home with and Inverter (the opposite of the power supply, that converts 12volt DC to 120 pure sinewave AC), and 12v big batteries, that are recharged by solar panels, or generators attached to wind turbines, waterwheels, or exercise equipment.
Been using one of these power supplies on all of my diesel heaters. They have some voltage adjustment on them. You can set them to floot charge a 12 volt battery, then your good to go even if you disconnect from the AC, the only way to go with these heaters.
I really love how you pre-fluxed the surfaces to be soldered, and used the hot iron with a blob of solder to tin the wires. That's how I always solder; trying to heat up the wires or terminals to melt the solder almost never works for me; it just oxidizes/corrodes the copper conductors and ruins the insulation, and usually the solder doesn't adequately melt or flow onto the copper surfaces to properly tin them, anyway. In most of my soldering jobs, the flux core in the solder doesn't flow fast enough --- or it just burns up too fast, before it ever even touches the joint --- to coat the surfaces properly, either; the joint really needs to be fluxed beforehand, as you did here. :D
I have one of these diesel heaters too and I experience exactly what you were experiencing with biodiesel or black diesel and you have to run the thing on the highest possible setting that it goes at or else you're not going to burn off the petroleum-based product the waste oil you can't run it on low you can't run on a medium you have to run it full tilt to max power or else it will never work hope this helps
awesome info. I've pulled some similar supplies from old led setups, alwasys wondered how to reuse them.
Have you made a video for the new heater yet?
Love your videos👍
Thank you!
These things consume very little wattage once at operating temp(30-40ish watts at full speed) so if you only have access to that 300w power supply you should be able to run both, just get the first one to temp before you start the second.
They pull somewhere around 150-200w during startup and shut down (I’m overstating but I haven’t figured in the extra load from the 12v charger in my setup).
Not sure you needed to go to expense of buying switched power cord, could just use computer type mains lead (or similar) and cut the plug off that goes into PC. Then use the switch at wall socket . Better to crimp connectors rather than solder to make it more secure. Definitely do not secure your power supply to the wall in that way. It's dangerous, at some point a connection will come loose or get dragged out. Just going through same procedure as you with almost same power supply. I'm just looking into having the supply trickle charging a battery. Someone could make some serious money selling kits for the power supply side of diesel heating. Cheers for the video.
I've used the PSU from my faulty Xbox360, 16 premium amps are good enough for this unit!
Amps aren’t the thing that kills you.
I can touch 1000amps but nothing will happen if the voltage is only 12v.
You need breakdown voltage of the body, then enough amperage.
Whether it will support 2 heaters is calculated the same as figuring your outlet circuit. volts X Amps = Watts, so if your circuit is a 15 Amp breaker you have 120v x 15A = 1800 watts to play with (I'd say more like 1600, if you sit consistently at your peak rating, you are going waiting for a fire). Your 300 Watt Power supply is currently being drained of 12v x 15a =180 Watts. so a second would pull 360 Watts, not a good idea. The last thing to check is if the heater has "inrush" current, which is a spike when a device first turns on. certain motors can pull as much as twice their rated wattage the first second of it firing up.. TLDR version, I'd remove telling people they might be able to run 2 heaters on one 300W power supply.
Ok I'm invested now are you gonna mess with the PG or VG I don't remember which as a thing agent ?
just so you know, power supplies can be VERY iffy when cheap. I've done some GPU mining stuff and GPU miners ALWAYS talk about being overly safe about power supplies, best to have something thats a little bit more well built that can handle more for redundancies' sake.
Bruh! You're a fuckin legend! What a great video and your editing is on point, very impressive video!
Thank you!
A 30amp want run 2 of them
The made in China tag is a tip-off it’s high quality 😝
Future reference you could have used the PC power supply or a brick4a laptop 😉
tinning wires is the number one thing not to do, its soft and will deform and come loose, happens all the time with 3d printers and that exact power supply. Use a ferrule or worst case bare wire, never tin it.
I was wondering about that. I would have just crimped on one of those ring connector things, with heat shrink around the crimp.
12V x 15A is only 180 watt peak output. The power supply is so much over kill!
Buying a non UL listed power supply is a risky one. People assume if its sold on Amazon it has to be safe. That is far from the case. I would never run a cheap power supply, especially when im not around.
Thanks for giving me an excuse to get a new MacBook.
Got you 😉
5:20 Why? You use google? You have multimeter you can check which one is hot ...
I think your PSU fan is broke. Very expensive PSU's will cycle the fans on and off to save power / noise but I doubt your $24 PSU is trying to do that.
😁 'Promo SM'
Same style of power unit that 3D printers.
Sorry but why would you spend that much money, and more importantly time, to make something that is readily available cheaply already?
***EDIT*** Ah, I see that the new heater specifies 12V 15A so you'd need a 180W power supply
In truth, what I would do would be to use a cheap battery maintainer (charger) and small/cheap/spare 12V automotive style battery. Or even better a solar panel and charge controller with the same battery...
You only need a 10 amp power supply. I made one for about $12 including an Anderson connector.
you must be drawing the additional start-up amperage from a car battery?