Few Axe Handle Wraps and Collars Meet These Criteria...
Vložit
- čas přidán 1. 03. 2018
- Some things I do and don't like about common axe handle wraps, guards, braces and collar protectors, and some alternatives.
Making Rawhide Axe brace: • Rawhide Axe Collar Wra...
Support on / skillcult has been critical in keeping me experimenting and making content. If you want to help me help others, this is probably the best way to do it. Thank you Patrons for supporting the mission!
Buy less, but buy it through my links! Shopping through my affiliate links generates revenue for me, at no extra cost to you, click links here, or go to my Amazon Store page: skillcult.com/amazon-store/ But seriously, buy less, do more.
Standard gear I recommend. I either use or have used all of it.
Council Tool Boys Axe: amzn.to/3z0muqI
Bahco Farmer's File: amzn.to/3Hbdhij
King two sided sharpening stone: amzn.to/32EX1XC
Silky f180 saw: amzn.to/3yZzM71
ARS 10 foot long reach pruner: amzn.to/3esETmM
Victorinox grafting/floral knife: amzn.to/3Jki1E9
Wiebe 12” fleshing tool: amzn.to/3sB0qSl
Atlas Elbow Gloves: amzn.to/3FwB5g6
BOOKS:
The Axe Book, by Dudley Cook: amzn.to/32kx7sN
Bushcraft, by Mors Kochanski: amzn.to/32q2rpT
Subscribe to my channel for more insightful Self Reliance related content: czcams.com/users/skillcultsubs... Click the bell icon to be notified of new content. Subscribing doesn’t mean that much on it’s own.
Blog and website: www.skillcult.com/blog
Instagram and Facebook @SkillCult
Axe handle braces made with leather or paracord are often too thick and too textured to allow fluid, seamless handling of the axe near the head. This is important, because near the head is the balance point and often the best place to handle and maneuver the axe. Metal handle guards are too cold. I like rawhide handle collars and I think a wrap of cloth with a glue has a high potential.
Great input, Thanks. I’m a beginner, just got my first nice forest axe. Excited to personalize it with some functional mods. Really like the ideas. Fiberglass sounds like fantastic one. When I get more time down the road, that will also allow me to create a really nice transition from the handle to the bottom of the bit/head where it’s not as comfortable as it probably should be. Thanks again!
A lot of good points. I made leather collars for some of my users because I thought they looked cool. I've since removed them all for the reasons you stated. Rawhide makes sense for sure. Thanks. Wade
I think the ideal leather collar would be more difficult to pull off than the ideal rawhide collar (aside from material prep maybe) and there is a level of functionality that leather will never equal, much as I love the stuff. There is obviously a strong aesthetic/romantic element to the use of leather which is understandable. As far as paracord, the idea that anyone would find that attractive has me scratching me head, but there's no accounting for taste ;). Thanks for commenting.
Self fusing silicone tape would be a good quick or temporary option, it's similar to electrical tape but has no adhesive so can be removed at any time without leaving behind any stick mess. To use the stuff you have to pull it quite tight for it to bind to it's self so has the added benefit of a small amount of compression.
As long as it's not too grippy, like soft silicone can be. I think a lot of tapes are okay temporary solutions, but haven't seen one that is a good permanent solution.
I recently discovered your channel and I'm thoroughly enjoying working my way through your older videos ... good stuff. A while back, a friend popped a "cheek" off his axe handle right under the head. It didn't do anything structurally, but it was awful to hold. We built up a micarta patch (epoxy and layers of canvas and denim), covered with waxed paper and then wrapped with rubber strips from an inner tube until it cured. After a touch of rasp, file, and sandpaper it was surprisingly comfortable to handle and didn't have that "plastic" feel to it at all. Strips of epoxy coated fabric could easily be wrapped around a handle and it would be easy to taper from virtually nothing to as thick as needed. The big drawback I see to you is that epoxy isn't a material that you can produce yourself.
I think that some kind of fabric with glue/epoxy is probably going to be the best accessible, modern, quick wrap for axe handles. I did one with cheese glue and muslin, which a so far held up, though it isn't that well tested really. That break is quite common due to a bunch of factors that I talk about in axe handle vids. It usually stays attached though. It would not add any strength, but you might also be able to build it up with wood shavings and glue, like I did in the opinel mod vid, or even sawdust and glue.
Are you angry. Ha ha. Love ya buddy
Nah, I'm good, Love back at you :)
2 of the best on youtube in one room.... hott dam!!!! Thank you guys for what you do!!!!
When Buckin Billy says, “u mad bro”? He means it the Canadian way.
Okay, thank you for sharing! Subscribed! Great information about the rawhide chews!
Some great ideas there. I'll try cloth tape and see how that works. Brilliant channel!
Great as always!
Watched this when it first came out. Back a few years latter because i had to fix my axe and this is the best channel for it
I love watching your channel. It’s full of great advice, sometimes on things you wouldn’t think of that is really helpful. There isn’t an axe out there that you can buy that’s perfectly suited to you. Most will do something that allows them to use the axe easier and more efficiently which suits them but not the next person.
Thanks, I'm glad you like my channel. I think a lot of people aren't realizing the limitations some (most in my view) solutions to this problem can create to free, full and efficient use. Making a solution for this problem more tactile-invisible does the job, but leaves all options open in handling the tool. Of course within that framework, there are all kinds of options and degrees to which detracting effects will actually affect any one user. My hope is to point out that texture, thickness and transition are factors that affect handling and then anyone can fell their way along with those in mind as it fits their use, axes and tasks. That these things aren't well considered is evident by the preponderance of thick, textured, lumpy wraps, not infrequently covering the entire handle. At some point, it can't just be chocked up to preference and style. There is an objective side to the problem. There is much more to this than effective protection and having yet another piece of paracord in case of emergencies. This isn't all directed at your comment, it's just an opportunity to state my position again clearly :). Thanks for commenting.
Gaffer tape. I wrapped a new peavey pickaroon tonight with it, good texture but mostly I like that it sticks very well, is durable and can be removed even years later with no residue. Its minimal for strike protection but better than none and seems to fit the bill without overkill. I bought a large roll years ago for 20$ to wrap competition sport kite tips, great cloth type tape
Nice video, and good advice. Thanks
You're welcome.
I wonder if I could at some point try wrapping thin stainless steel wire around my handle and then use a resin or something that would go over it all that I could sand to make it a smooth, seamless transition. I know that wrapping a broken wooden tool handle with steel wire works and there are tools for that.
sounds feasible. If you wanted to make the most perfect thing ever, I'm sure there are lots of lengths one could go to. But, I think any tight wrapping that is not super weak will prove to be adequate too in most cases.
I've only really used splitting axes until last year when I first subscribed and bought a 28" Husqvarna, which I've used almost every weekend since to chop, buck, and split. I wouldn't say heavy use, but definitely regular use, and I really hate the idea of putting a collar on it. Like you said, I handle the axe there all the time, and the Husqvarna is already a little fat and sharp there as it is. So my question is how much is that collar worth? Am I going to have to replace my handle twice as much if I don't do something? Thanks.
Depends on the user and use entirely. Some people might make that last for years doing the same work as someone that might break it in a day. If you're not sure, it's good insurance. That handle is WAY too fat out of the factory anyway. By the time it's tuned down to a reasonable degree, a thin thing there shouldn't be much of a problem hopefully.
I've been thinking that cloth handlebar tape with a shellac coating might do the trick. Adding a small amount of linseed oil (5 percent or less) would make the shellac a bit more "plastic" and probably improve durability.
Another very instructive video! Could you also post a video on the muslin/natural glue method? I'd like to try that and compare it to the rawhide collar I made last year.
There is one already. Just search for mummy axe wrap. Jury is still out on effectiveness, but it will certainly help for sure and it's easy enough and probably easy enough to replace.
Shucks, how did I miss that??? Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
I should have thought to link it at the end of this video. I just did.
Awesome content. Glad to find you. Instant subscribe. I warched about 8 videos today. Thanks.
Welcome. Yay for binge watchers :)
hello to France!! la meilleure video sur le sujet que j'ai vue!! bravo!
look the vidéo i send you on terra pretta!! it is a complementary to your vidéo !! thank's you again!!! sorry for my no good anglais!!
Thickness at the shoulder sucks for more than just handling because it runs out straight into the eye I was considering a Rhien pattern but now I've moved to just getting a smaller one for a carver/carpentry.
Hi Steven, I loved the disappearing chicken near the end of you video. This is off this topic but I have a question about tanning. I am tanning 3 hides at present and using the same process for each. They are looking good thus far but I've noticed some differences in color. Have you noticed any differences in the tanning process as to the area or perhaps the diet if the animal? All 3 hides are deer and all come from different areas but within 50 to 100 miles. One deer from a mountainous area of PA and one from farm country and one from a farm woods area. Can diet effect how a hide will respond to the same processes. I do realise different animals can be diffetent but what about diet? As to this video, my splitting mall has the fiberglass handle and it is great. I have gone with raw hide on the axe and hatchet and I love these. So again my appreciation for your informative and preserving videos. Thanks Much! DaveyJO
I haven't seen that phenomenon that I recall. It isn't so surprising. Small variations in hide preparation can have a big difference though because it affects the PH if nothing else and that affects dye colors in general. Also, tanning material preparation, oxidation, dry or fresh and temperature and time cooked. All those being exactly equal, I guess you'd have to chock it up to skin composition.
I like to imagine this entire video is him in the tool section telling a worker what he is looking for
There's no link in the description to the video of how to sew on a rawhide collar.
Thanks! czcams.com/play/PL60FnyEY-eJCVJq8_FP9keZ8igGkv7K-Y.html
I usually use a form of heavy thread for stitching leather, wrapped neatly around the handle like a collar for 3-7" from the head (depending on the specific tool and it's intended use). I brush a thin layer of glue or lacquer over the intended area of application, then wrap very tightly and evenly, squishing out and wiping off excess glue as I go. Every layer of wrap is also coated with the same. The result is a very tough brace that can take a severe beating. Handles I have wrapped this way have broken after the end of the wrap- if they even broke
The compouded strength of many tight wraps is pretty epic.
love that axe handle .
Thin and whip like, nice dark age.
Why did the chicken cross the road??
To photo bomb a CZcams video. ;-)
Nice Plymouth Barred Rock btw
HI Steve, in a pinch dental floss can be used to sew and it's tough. I always run it through a block of beeswax before I sew the leather. You can also get a spool of artificial sinew, which is like colored heavy duty dental floss. I bought a large spool of linen thread from a shoemaker, like you used on your leather mug after running it through beeswax. And I included some useful things I'm sure you can use. Thanks Much! DaveyJO
Yeah, I've used dental floss for sewing stuff before too. It's always on hand. Wax should help keep it from shredding.
Last one, but with duct tape, but I start from where I want both hands to meet at the end of the swing, then gradually tape it towards the head so my front-hand runs over the layers, instead of against them. So done coz I've had the handle break in the middle, and wasn't keen on having that happen again.Also, dirt cheap, super easy to make even, and repair. Downside is ofc that small protrusions can occur while working, unnoticed until one wonders where dat blød came from.
Easy to fix if one is aware that it can happen when doing misc. strikes like with limbing.
I think that would bother me, but never tried it. Definitely could help with handle breakage though.
100% agree. All the thick protectors are for casual users. If they seriously use them they'll very quickly learn to hate them and remove them. I think rawhide or the mummy wrap are the closest to the ideal "permanent" solution. The squirrel tube I tried had promise, its still on there, but its probably too thin. Maybe I need to test all small tube bodied animals till the perfect axe protecting rawhide is found.
I think permanent is a good point. There might be something to be said for non permanence.
I just wrap my axes with two layers of fiber-fix. It works awesome if you wrap it up tight while it's dring it is smooth and strong.
I agree and was thinking about the problem the other day. I was looking at one of my felling axe heads that extends down into a kind of beard on the under side. It is an expensive Australian brand and I haven't used it much, but am sceptical about the quality and design after the original handle broke in short order and then my first replacement handle (one they supplied) broke almost straight away. I spent the best part of a day fitting that replacement handle so after it broke again I couldn't even bring myself to look at the axe again for a year and a half. I finally got around to putting another new handle on it the other day, we'll see how it goes, but I'm skeptical, I wonder if they may be more for hanging on walls with not much real credibility. Perhaps an issue with the timber, or the shape and proportion of the eye is creating too much of a stress riser at the base of the head. Anyway, lets assume they are a well thought out design based on generations of use, if so I wonder if that bit of a "beard", the part of the edge that extends down further from the centre line on the lower half of the head, and seemingly not necessary for the cut, well I wonder if it is there to help protect that vulnerable part of the handle?
Dunno, can you link a picture of it from the net somewhere?
ruralfencing.com/collections/axes-etc/products/knockabout-handcrafted-axe It's not much of a "beard" or whatever the proper term would be, but it is different to other axes I've used and was wondering if there is a good reason for it. I figured that extension might not play much of a roll in the cut but might help shield the handle.
yeah, I'm not too sure on the beard. There are no good pictures anywhere of the eye bottom or top and the eye to handle transition, but the transition looks sudden and rough just off hand. That is the first thing I noticed. Those transitions in thickness and angle are generally best made gradually and smoothly. Don't know what else to say about it.
Thanks. I'll see how the new one goes . If I have dramas again I might chamfer the eye. Interestingly the eye on the bottom is obviously quite deliberately a different shape, a bit more narrow and triangular at the front. Anyway cheers.
That sounds odd. I did notice that the handle front looked very sharp there. If you get it all apart, take pictures, top and bottom. There should not be a very sharp edge on the lower eye to my way of thinking. Not heavily rounded, just not sharp, so hit that with something if it's sharp. Also, what kind of break. That could be telling.
Rawhide all the way. I've put it on 3 of my axes so far and my understanding of it's toughness has grown by leaps and bounds. I sew it in the back with a narrow gauge bankline, which can be a little rough on the webbing of my thumb when I'm choked up on my crafting hatchet for an extended time, but not too bad. Not that a crafting hatchet needs that reinforcement, but I drop to thinner hide for the hatchets. I was finally able to find a reasonable 30" handle for my 2.75 head and after much whittling and filing, built my perfect axe. I put about a 3/32" thick rawhide on it, and it will get the golden linseed color my others have with following oilings. I like to knock that knob down a bit on the back of the handle below the pole as well. It looks nice and all, but don't quite see the utility in that much thickness. That lowers the overall thickness at the throat a bit and the additional rawhide isn't as a big a deal. I have broad boxy hands, but my fingers aren't that long so I'm not a fan of too thick in the throat.
And I do use dogbone rawhide. I like it.
Agreed on the rise at the poll side of the handle. Generally I make that just big enough to stop the head coming down, and a little extra in case it a loose head needs to be jumped down in the future. I liked the 2.75 lb head I was using for a while. Noticeably more authority than smaller axes but still easy to swing. 1/4 pound increments are significant.
No collar. No underwear either.oh, and that damn electrical tape gets all sticky when it gets hot.....if you ant getting hot, you ant chopping wood.
I know I’ve only been swinging an axe for 3ish years, but I have had absolutely zero experience with over strikes. But I have no damage on the collars of my axes and have not really screwed up a swing so bad that I missed. Maybe it will happen one day, but three years without it is pretty good. Maybe it’s for your average city joe that has no idea what’s going on, or if you are splitting large rounds when it the collar may hit the corner if it it goes in deeper than you anticipated. I don’t know cause I’ve done all those
Good for you. They are pretty common. I still screw up limbing every great once in a while. Otherwise, they are uncommon for me, but I don't split a lot of saw cut rounds either. Splitting large rounds is definitely more of a problem. Also, it depends on style. Someone that isn't screwing around will often put the safety of handles somewhat secondary to hitting things. I smack my maul handle all the time, but I just don't care because it's fiberglass. Axes I'm more careful, depending on the axe, but large saw cut rounds provide ample opportunity for damage. Sometimes unpredictable. More caution generally equals less production I would say.
On the off chance it wasn't just for effect, if you do drive your palm through your head, would you please appoint a friend to film and post video?
No, live stream.
try super glue and baking soda. sounds a little off but the baking soda makes the superglue harden instantly a it forms a super strong plastic
My maul came with a rubber collar and within the first few minutes of use it was extremely damaged from wood hitting it. I don't understand why you'd put such a soft material there...
I've seen those things last a while. Maybe you just got a really crappy one. I don't like them for other reasons though.
Not everyone needs to be a ninja with his axe
Ever cut a handle down in height due to a split?
If you mean cut it off and mount the head lower down, that is usually not possible. I have on more than one occasion, jumped the head further down to pinch cracks closed and re-wedged.
I agree it's a big hang up with extra weight
Love the dissappearing chicken.......great info!
She's been missing every since...
Just kidding
I do the canvas and wood glue for all the tools I take to reenactment events due to other people busting my handles since im the only one who uses them on a semi regular basis and hard as I try the others just dont give a shit so its a nice insurance lol
Good to hear. Thanks.
Go Canadian and try hockey tape. Avoid electrical tape it can be too slick at times.
Not sure we have that in California, lol. Electrical tape can definitely get really messy over time, but it is pretty effective, conforms to the shape and almost everyone has it already for a temporary fix. I've tried a cloth tape I have here, but it never works that well and won't conform to irregularities. I'm not familiar with Hockey tape.
I have a sledge with what I think is hockey tape, I really like it and need to do more of my handles with it...
It doesn’t have any stretchy gumminess to it like electrical tape so I’d think you can get a tighter wrap with it. And it’s old as hell and still rocking
SkillCult check out these properties (from the wiki page) sounds like the perfect stuff for this application.
“A cloth-based self-adhesive, made of non-elastic cloth or synthetic fibers, and has been used for many years. Depending on the level of play, this tape may only last one or two games on the blade of a hockey stick. This tape can be used for:
taping the stick handle to allow for a better grip
taping the stick blade to protect it from wearing and provide a grip on the puck
taping the lower part of the stick shaft to prevent damage from another player hacking at the stick”
Sounds interesting, though better grip gives me pause. Is that like the Canadian equivalent to duct tape here in the states. You could probably build a church around duct tape here lol.
SkillCult I’m not so sure about the context of grippiness, on my sledge there isn’t any noticeable grippiness others than the light ridges of the tape wrap. Though I don’t know if that’s just cause it’s old.
Yep, I'm one of those leather latigo lace morons. The sheath and collar for my SFA were my first go at leathercraft and they do the job. I have 2 more I need to make and I'm going to stitch them. Thanks for the inspiration.
I'm not sure exactly how I would stitch them, but it's the concept that's important. A whip might be fine. A subcutaneous stitch would be awesome if it worked, but I'm not sure if it would, probably depends on the thickness and quality of the leather.
This is a thick tight grain quarter hide (bovine) I got from Tandy. It's probably 1/8" in places. Supposed to be veg tan and quite stiff. I think it's made to be saddle leather.
You can look at the rawhide vid for the subcutaneous stitch. It takes a long time and the leather has to be strong enough to pull the stitches tight, but the stitches can be pretty much hidden. It's a cool stitch to learn.
I've watched that vid a few times. I'm not sure I have the dexterity to do this after my accident but I'm going to attempt. Any particular needle you like? I've read elsewhere that it makes a big difference from a good one to a cheap one?
The german glover's needles are good. I forget the brand. I don't know what size, but you can order a set usually. You could also use a round stabbing awl and then just whip stitch it. The Stitch will be exposed, but it doesn't probably matter that much. My rawhide thing on my hatchet is whipstitched with sinew and it's fine.
I have to be careful on commenting on axe collars on the inter web, constructive criticism is often not taken well. So many are for pure looks and I don't think it improves the look of the tool or its function. I can be all over a slick fitting unit like you present but those bulky thickly stitch units are over the line. I don't run any collars on any of my axe handles, with one exception, I have a small single bevel hewing hatchet on which the handle broke due to poor grain structure on its off set handle(single bevel) it was glued back and seized with string and it holding up well. Oh then there is the opposite of a collar the Estwing, have you reviewed the Ewsting line of axes?
I actually don't use them either usually. All the collars I've made and talked about recently were motivated by interest in their functionality for beginners or in axes that see particularly hard use. I would put one on a wooden splitting maul handle for sure if I ever used them,, and if I had a dedicated splitting axe, I would certainly consider it. Otherwise I'm not inclined to bother, though I still do have accidents and I think that a well functioning protection can be an asset on most axes regardless of the user. They are great for repairs too as you say. Cool to hear about the reglue job. I'm not sure I've done that, but I was thinking about the possibility yesterday. When I was a kid, the first hatchet I got was an estwing, then an estwing camp axe. Even back then, when i knew fuckall, I decided quickly that they were substandard and stopped using them. and eventually got rid of them. I have thought about revisiting them. My neighbor has the longer camp axe up at his place that i could tune up and review. I think that video would be a total buzz kill for a lot of people, though I'm willing to give it a fair trial and start on the assumption that kid Steven may have been entirely wrong. As far as that ranking in importance among more invovled videos that I need to make, it's pretty low, but it might get a lot of views. What's your take on them. I like the idestructable factor and the sexy leather handles, but not much else as I recall.
I think the bit is way to thin and the skinny metal shaft leaves nothing to desire, and it will bend and not come back like you would want it to. I have used an Estwing hammer but really like my wooden handled hammers. Just don't pull big nails with the wooden hammer, Estwing is good for than, or a pinch bar. But then most of my construction work has moved over to screws and impact drivers. The destrictiveness of the Estwing is about all I can agree with, but why? Why abuse the tool beyond its purpose?
I haven't seen one bend, but ditto on the form factor. I eventually didn't even really use it as a beater hatchet. If I had one now, I'd probably leave it out in the wood shed or throw it under the truck seat. At least the handle won't get loose. If it was just as functional as a wood handled tool, I would have no argument with them, but I don;t think that is the case. They have a lot of avid fans, but I have to wonder if they have well tuned wood handled tools as a point of reference.
I'm loathed to put anything there - although maybe I should in future as I broke an axe neck limbing a tree in pretty cold conditions. My main problem is that where I live the choice of axe handles once you get over about 18 inches is really dire - you can find 36 inch - but if you want anything in between those sizes you have to order online and then you end up with junk. The one that broke came from the states and after post cost alot and still had the grain almost perfectly wrong and it was bent towards the handle! I managed to pare down so it was straighter (I don't have the right stuff to straighten something that length) and then it still broke just as I was getting used to it. I guess it's all in the experience. I'd like to do the rawhide if I did go with it in the future but the sewing aspect kind of looks difficult.
If the area to straighten isn't too long, you can just set it over a large pot with boiling water in the bottom and put tin foil on top. That will do to whatever the length of the bend is if it matches the size of the pot you have. The simplest way to secure the handle after straightening, is probably to tie it down to a 2x4 or similar lumber to cool and dry, using shims under the handle as necessary.
Okay . Bop , boom , smack .
Sounds like a plan . 😏
$40 leather collar that's gonna get tore up lol. The point is to be sacrificial. Duct tape is fine
Or old boot leather
LOL..Duct tape fixes everything
Areb you left handed Stephen?
No, right
Great info
I’m Joe Rapanut
Hi Joe :)
I swear I seen a chicken teleport off screen!?
shhhh....
Cool I thought the chicken were gone for good.
They're still around. I've limited their access to food, so they hang around me more hoping for a handout :)
Chicken video bomb
totally. that will make some people happy.
They have a way of doing that.
The rawhide wraps work very well, after seeing your video a while back of putting one on the Council Tool axe I tried my hand at some and they've held up well through a season, really only cosmetic damage to the wraps. A little time investment as you said but worth it considering the time it takes to not only rehang an axe but to find a decent handle.
Good to hear.
you make me want to cut wood.
good lol.