Why These Oils Are Best for Tool Handles
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- čas přidán 19. 06. 2015
- How to use drying oils to finish and maintain your tool handles. Also, a little about drying oils and the difference between toxic boiled linseed oil and raw linseed oil.
Amazon link to raw linseed oil amzn.to/1q12f6Z You can shop around, but I like using the food grade stuff. The Sunnyside oil smells like solvents, not sure what's up with that. This is actually cheaper or close to the same price.
WALNUT OIL, sometimes cheaper than raw flax oil: amzn.to/2FluF5J
As usual with me, this is the long version. I'm more here to help people understand materials and the world we live in than just to show steps on how to do things. Drying oils are awesome for finishing wooden tool handles. They make a tough, grippy, durable, beautiful surface finish that will never flake off. Discussed are types of oils and why drying oils work for this purpose and how I actually go about applying oil and maintaining the finish. Just my personal experience and understanding, glad to hear anyone else's in the comments.
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lol. I like this dude! Seriously good info with just enough dry humor.
I just was saying this to myself, one year latter , hes still getting out a true message worth ranting! cheers!
I could not find a lot of good info about oiling until now. This was very refreshing for my mind. Thank you
Cool, you should watch my more updated one on penetration, saturation and coating.
@@SkillCult Awesome video thanks. I'll check out the other vid as well. So great you can make the wood so resilient and preserve it for so long.
Thank You for good info on harmful effects of the boiled linseed oil. Most of the woodwokers use it without thought
I was taught as a rule of thumb . When starting a handle with linseed oil you follow these guidelines
Once a day for a week
Once a week for a month
Once a month for a year
Then once a year
Steven was diagnosed years ago with a mental condition known as 'dummyrulephobia'. careful triggering symptoms!
Me too. But, doesn't this philosophy run contrary to the video? "Dumb rules", n'est pas?
@@swingbelly Not if you're actually using the tool.
The old timer's rule of thumb, but I disagree after the once a day for a week since the oil will polymerize inside the fibers of the wood which will stop the wood from absorbing more oil until it saturates to the core. I personally use a 50/50 mix with turpentine and apply at least 24+ more coats within the 2-3 days until it no longer absorbs the oil.
Why am I just now discovering this channel?? This guy is my hero!
Same!
I really appreciate the info about solvents and heavy metals added to boiled linseed oil. Also, I did not know that flax oil and linseed oil were the same thing. Cheers!
Another fun fact: Canola oil is made from rapeseed. It's just harder to market anything called RAPESEED.
Incredibly helpful. Restoring a Kelly True Temper Flint Edge axe. Just got a nice edge on it. Handle is sun bleached and dry as a chicken bone. It's been a cool transformation process. Thanks!
"I this this is interesting, but I'm a dork." I relate, sir. I definitely relate.
When I was a small boy, Linseed was diluted with Mineral Spirits and sprayed on wood shingles to the point of runoff, looked amazing for years.. A few months ago, I applied chainsaw bar oil to a cheap shovel and placed in the sun, reapplied 2-3 coats daily as much as would soak in. I'm rubbing some off with my cloth gloves and the handle color is amazing after a few months. I did this because its basically cooking/mineral oils to preserve the wood because these shovels often are left in the weather (as a former soapmaker, I learned Canola is related to Linseed, often used as bar oil).. You have great info on maintaining wood handles.
Haha I like the hemp rant!
T3hJonesutv
I been experimenting with adding a little pine tar to the linseed oil for handles that might get left out in the rain. For stuff that needs hardcore waterproofing I add asphalt (roofing) tar, it sheds water like crazy but won't flake like paint. The original black paint that was used on Model T Fords was linseed oil plus gilsonite (natural asphalt).
Also, if you want to make your own safe boiled linseed oil, you could use iron as the metal (some commercial boiled linseed does, but it may also have manganese). Add a lot of iron and you will have the classic red barn paint.
+445supermag thanks for that great input. I do have some plans to experiment with mixes of linseed/beeswax/pitch for deep penetration finishes. Linseed oil doesn't hold up well in the weather. I think mostly to UV light probably. I figure some pitch and wax might really help. I'm all about penetration though, and not just with using solvents. Penetration with solvents means that less of what we want is getting in deep. Like if the mix is half solvent to make it thinner and better penetrating, that means that when the solvent leaves, we have half as much oil left in the wood as if it was all oil. Again, speed over quality, the modern paradigm. Most people are terrified of inconvenience. I've got some experiments planned toward a simple system for deeper penetration of pure waxes, oils and pitch. I was hoping to do it last year, but hopefully I'll pull it off this year. I had read that iron worked for drying and had thought about experimenting with it. It obviously is less effective, which is why it's not used but like you said, maybe we can just use more and make something like an iron oxide oil paint. hydrogen peroxide many be another to experiment with, but it would probably have to be used in an emulsion. But if very little is required, that might be okay. I'm still a little unclear about the real life, qualitative differences between dried raw oil and dried oil with metal driers (referred to in all the old literature as japan drier). Any insight on that would interest me. I plan to test that in a semi-controlled way as well. Thanks for the thoughtful and informed comment. BTW, one of my hammer handles is half covered in that roofing patch asphalt stuff. It is does seem pretty bomber. Maybe I'll add natural asphaltum to my list of things to throw in the experimental mix. It occurs naturally on the California coast and has been used extensively in the arts by the native inhabitants.
@@SkillCult Very interesting stuff. I've used a mixture of Linseed oil, beeswax and turpentine to water proof canvas. Its an excellent way to make a simple tent, and I'm pretty sure it was used by the soldiers in the war of the states, and probably long before that. All you do is heat those ingredients up, (being careful not to set yourself on fire of course), and when it dries it solidifies into a wax like substance, then you can spread it on canvas or whatever you feel like waterproofing, and use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat it up, which makes it melt into the fibers and when it dries it forms and excellent waterproofing layer. I wish I could remember the amounts to mix but I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to find out for anyone interested. Thanks for all your work, keeping all of this knowledge from going the way of the dodo bird.
Thanks for being real about all things. whether it be hemp or the quality of a steel striking tool ! Just now subscribed and look forward to watching your other video's. This is coming from someone who has lived the country working life for 53 years, it's refreshing to run into someone who has been there/done that and is level headed. Much success and Good luck my friend !!
Thanks for the good words!
I have my first ax it’s a condor , 26 inch handle it seems balanced but using it will tell me the real story. Thanks again for the schooling on using and everything else about axes
Your videos really fill a niche that I don’t think anyone else does. And, I truly appreciate how much thought and how much plain smarts you bring to each topic. So... kudos! And... thanks!
Thanks. I appreciate that. Tell that to the algorithm though. I don't seem to be able to bet much real traction on here.
Thanks for the information. You're a natural teacher.
I've been using up a 5 gallon container of Archer BLO from the 60's (maybe). I had no idea that there was lead oxide dryers in it! Thanks so much for the info. I am going to cover them with new raw ASAP.
Thanks for the great video! Love the explanations as to the WHY and the HOW and the SCIENCE behind the drying oils. I'm very much of the more I know the better I truly understand the concept of whatever I'm doing, and the better my success.
Great content!
+Matthew Fraser Thanks Matthew! One of the things I hope to do with this channel and on my site over time is put down stuff about various natural materials and their properties and working qualities. That's the kind of stuff that more people used to have to know in order to be able to pull off making things from "nothing".
No response necessary as I work my way through your archives. Interesting chemistry lessons and beautiful rich finishes on those handles. I see a pattern in your endeavors... biochar, tanning, appling, great finishes, apple butter, gardening... Time, patience, more time, more patience. Thank You.PS... Read your article on grafting... whip and tongue looks amazing... I can see the logic in a well stabilized "whip only" graft and the side graft is just cool the way it looks and works. Thank you!
Honestly, you can just make grafts up as you go. Just make sure there is cambial contact, stability and good timing.
From recent experiences I totally agree about varnish on wooden handles - it's basically a very crappy! Well, initally it might seal the wood, but after prolonged exposure to water it starts to flake off. And yes, I can say from experience that it gives blister when tools are used heavily. I was bringing in hay this summer with a pitchfork - a very nice tool I think but with this thick nasty varnish on it. Ofter a few hours I had a big fat blister and had to put on gloves - I generally don't like to work with gloves on. I remember a video from Good of the Land about a axe that was lost on the wood floor for about a year. It only took a light sanding and a new layer of linseed oil to get the handle up and running.
Great overview and some expert advice, well researched. Awesome work as usual.
I just bumped in to your channel today. Thanks for reminding me to oil my handles - the seldom used ones. I just thought I'd mention that my Dad taught me to sand down well-weathered or neglected handles to fresh wood then use a 50/50 mix of raw linseed and turpentine (not mineral spirits) to help deep penetrate and revitalize the wood. Once that was done, add the raw linseed oil just like you stated. It must work pretty good because I've inherited his garden tools that he got from his folks. He did this to them in the '60s (one garden rake is about 80 years old with the original handle). All I had to do was re-oil them once to bring them back up to a useable condition. Don't you just love that linseed oil smell? I was a kid in the '60s and It reminds me of oil-based paint for baseball dug-outs, bleachers, fences etc. Ah! All those memories...
Thanks. I've had the 50/50 mix recommended quite a bit.
Nice handle.. love how you get into the actual science of stuff
Good stuff and love the hemp rant. You're correct, linen made from the flax plant was King until the cotton Kings had it banished.
Thanks for this, been looking for a good path to finish my opinel knife.
I like to create a blend of drying oils. Blending cheaper oils with more expensive. Seems to work just fine. Great video!
Great video! Dude, you’re one smart guy! Great info. I just coated my shovel with linseed oil
I saw this video a few months back, and it inspired me to learn more about flaxseed oil and linseed oil. As it happens, flaxseed and linseed oil aren't exactly the same thing; by most definitions, flaxseed oil "becomes" linseed oil once it's been refined in some manner. There are a lot of processes for refinement, but a very basic one involves combining flaxseed oil with water in a container and shaking the mixture vigorously (a process known as "washing"). A painter by the name of Tad Spurgeon has done some great research on the subject, and there are a several good videos here on CZcams outlining different washing methods. Anyway, I just though I'd pass this info along in case you weren't already aware. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
It is often heated briefly too I think. for most of my uses, it doesn't seem to matter much and I use mostly raw flax oil. I'm sure it matters in the arts and for varnishes and such though. I've made stand oil, but haven't reasearched all the linseed oil processing stuff too much. that's for commenting.
Very comprehensive. Love the chemistry angle. Never knew about those added impurities in boiled linseed.
Glad I watched this. Most videos I’ve watch insist on a light coat but if it’s a new handle first coat, you should apply liberally.
You can get small bottles of Linseed oil to experiment with at art supply stores. Oil paints are commonly made with Linseed. You also use it to seal wooden hand pallets.
Thank you for your honest and helpful explanations.
I love that intro. Looks like a badass & gives himself away as being a dork. TOTAL BADASS!
Good helpful advice that makes sense and also in tune with the natural world. Good one fella.
Informative as always, I always wondered why boiled linseed made my hands itch
Man, that's scary.
Love your review brother. Appreciate your experience with the different oils and your thoughts on hemp, lol
Absolutely love your videos. No bullshit spiced with a bit of honest profanity. I especially appreciate the "dumb rules" sneer in that rules are meant for dummies and all others learn! Thank you. Think I have broken almost every "sociatal rule" since 1968 and have become a more "together" person.
Thanks man.
First video of yours I have watched and after watching I subscribed thought it was great video skillcult look forward to watching your others thanks for the help on oil!
And I love your straight up rant about hemp. It is a great fiber. Tell it like it is with humor. Rock on hoss.
I knew most of this but I still learned just the thing I needed to know. Good job!
Just started watching some of your axe... Sharpening. ..handling...care of videos! I am very impressed and like how you relay the information and done in a way that (at least I can tell) lets us know you actually do this stuff! It isn't all he same stuff a lot of other people do to were it all seems fake and the same info keeps getting spit around.
Thank you and well done! Now I have to watch your biochar and apple videos! Also will subscribe!!
Thanks Gene. I try to know what I'm talking about or own the information I put out in some way that it's not just what I vacuumed up elsewhere. Welcome to the channel :)
Thank you for the breakdown on linseed oil.
+mister smith You're welcome. I'm planning to do some tests to compare all of those drying oils. Should be interesting side by side all in exactly the same conditions on the same materials.
Wow, it looks well protected AND beautifully antiqued at the same time. LOVE it...thanks so much, man! :D
On a lot of handles now, I'll try to saturate the outer rind of the wood and then don't worry about anything on the outside of the handle. I have another video talking about that. czcams.com/video/ueVi_NObci0/video.html
But, barring filling the wood, built up layers work pretty well and the do look good :)
Good info. As a kid, I worked for a local farmer, hoeing thistles. Always had to clean the tool, oil the blade and handle with boiled linseed before putting it away. He had a huge rack of hoes, pitchforks, shovels etc: 3 generations worth. Lovely patina and smell in that shed.
This is the most accurate and informative video that I've seen on the subject. I know very little about oiling tool handles, so I've watched as many YT vids as I can. There are lots... and many of them are just plain wrong. I live in the UK where the climate destroys tools in the shed. I've been re-handling lots of old tools and want to use the right oil. My inclination is to go with Tung oil because it penetrates deeper, dries faster and smells better than raw linseed oil! Cost is not very important compared against the price of rehandling.
Thanks again for producing a well-informed and soundly thought through video. Paul
I just like a thin slow drying oil because it soaks in further before the surface seal over. BLO cures so fast that it's hard to keep getting multiple deep penetrating coats. Dudley Cook author of The Axe Book says the same as I do, use raw oil and keep saturating it till it won't take any more. I got some tung oil when I did this video, but haven't messed with it yet. Just be sure to get the pure stuff or you're going to get something with solvents. My outdoor tools get torn up just because of horizontal rain and stuff. It's really hard to keep up. I need to build a shed. You may end up with mold problems on the oiled handles in your climate. I'm just now working on a video about thickened linseed oil and stuff like that. Oils are interesting. People used to know the properties and categories of oils, but now petrol products have replaced a lot of the natural oils people used for all sorts of stuff.
A man without a shed is like a dog without a tail. It can be done but it's like you lost a part of yourself! I take all your points about linseed oil as true and valid, not least the issues of price and availability.
I went through all our tools a month or so back and have had to renew the handles on 3 axes, a sledgehammer, a maul, 4 hammers, a garden rake, 2 shovels and a hoe. They were mostly suffering from cracking and shrinkage due entirely to my shameful neglect. Rust has taken a toll on the neglected steel too. In the past I have used raw linseed oil on them but not nearly enough, obviously. I did slather some on most years but my real failing was in not getting lots on when the handles were new.
Having now had to face up to the real and not inconsiderable cost of tool neglect, all in one hit, I thought I'd make sure to get the treatment right first time. If you need an American analogy for our climate it seems to be something like your Pacific northwest but not so cold in the winter.. just wet and grey and miserable :-)
I've been amazed at how, on this particular subject, so much bullshit is expounded by people who don't actually know and simply repeat other people's pontifications, quite often with great aplomb. Your video is refreshingly honest and humble.... and accurate too!
I've been persuaded by both yourself through your reasoning and a Canadian video (address below) specially made on Tung oil, that Tung oil is probably better and worth a serious try. I can get the pure stuff for £14 a litre which translates to about $18 a quart. (I won't buy a gallon because the oil oxidises in the can). This is about 3 times the price of raw linseed oil.
www.canadianwoodworking.com/get-more/tung-oil-debunking-myths
I wrote a much shorter reply last night but our 22 year old cat decided to walk across the keyboard and demolished my carefully crafted response, so I'm afraid yo get the full Monty today! Now that I'm a subscriber I'll have to follow up on what you're all about!
One last thankyou for the best video on a subject riddled with falsehoods and mistakes. Paul
Thanks mate. It took me a lot of trial and error and long observation to see what really should be obvious, but really isn't. That's how most things work though.
Put your tung oil up in small jars filled to the top and they should keep indefinitely. I've noticed recently what I've suspected all along. Once you really seal the surface off with a good coat of dried oil, you can't penetrate it again. I've been soaking some hammer heads in oil that got loose in our very hot dry summer this year and since they've already been soaked, they won't tighten at all.
I want to see everything saturated to probably 1/6 inch or more the first time around or when restoring old handles. After that, a coat can be built up on the surface if wanted or over time. Now I'm messing with thickened linseed and oil paint. I should have something out on that in the next week or two.
I'm a few months behind, but most of my stuff including all my old articles from other blogs are on www.skillcult.com in easy to navigate visual menus.
Thanks, man. I've been given a marvelous scythe that's at least 60 years old, more likely even older, and the snath is a rare and beautiful handle. THIS was what I needed to know. I have plenty of time for the linseed oil to properly cure before the growing season begins, and I wanted to find out how to best strengthen the wood fibers before they start taking on stresses that no one has put on this tool since the 1960's.
Though I have concerns about the condition of the very end of the snath, where a metal collar attaches to the scythe blade, the rest of the length of the snath is in near-pristine condition. However, it's obviously been laquered at some point, and I want to give the old wood a really good cleaning and locate any spots where the wood has broken down. With great-good-luck, the collar won't need to be repositioned, and come springtime, I'll learn how to go to town with the best nature restoration tool out there--scythes can be used very selectively to cut invasive species out from around native plants. Wish me luck!
cool. If it's the curved American style handle, check out 42 blades, he's the american scythe guy.
This was so helpful. I have many BPS Knives and want to darken and protect the wooden scales. HC steel so I have to treat it with kid gloves. Thanks for this!
Great info on linseed oil. I had no idea that the boiled oil wasn't just oil that had spent time at high temperatures in a saucepan (so to speak). A little disappointed too. Much like raw sugar is nothing like raw!
I attended a longbow making course a few months back and have been oiling up my bow with raw linseed oil. Our teacher's bow was made from spotted gum, the same as us students bows yet his was the deepest red colour you'd ever seen. I asked about the wood he'd used and couldn't believe it was the same spotted gum, just oiled and oiled! A beautiful finish!
Another use for boiled linseed oil I'd come across was making oilskin from fabric. After what you've said about lead etc in the boiled oil, I think I'll try the raw linseed oil instead. I was planning to make my kids some raincoats out of old bedsheets and oiling them up. I don't want my kids near lead at all if I can help it.
Rabid Little Hippy Hi Rabid! :) I know, it pisses me off actually and I think they should make it more obvious that it isn't safe. I think they can get away with it because it is such an old product under that name with the dyers added. A lot of woods oxidize and darken with age too, plus linseed is known to darken as well, something that wood workers aren't fond of, but that may be a matter of taste. I would use a better base material for your oil cloth if you can. It is a lot of work and oil to use. I've seen recipes for that in old formulas books. Try searching google books for things like "to make oilcloth". You can limit the search to earlier time periods, usually 1920 back to the early 1800s is good for that kind of stuff. It's totally on my list of things to do. I've made small experiments, but nothing big yet. Most of them use a filler, like iron oxide. I wouldn't be surprised if some called for prepared oil. Stand oil is heated linseed, but apparently heated for days in a sealed container away from oxygen. Pretty big project on the homescale. Thanks for sharing! Good luck with your archery. I'm sure you'll be shooting bounding kangaroos in the eye in no time!
Steven Edholm I might pass on the roo's but the rabbits are fair game!
Good point re the oilskin jackets. I don't want to purchase new if I can help it though. Still, valid point.
survivalsherpa.wordpress.com/2014/10/01/how-to-make-lightweight-oilskin-tarps-from-bed-sheets/#comment-20096 is the post from whence the idea came... Teamed with this page - eqos.deviantart.com/art/Diagram-for-Large-Hooded-Cloak-216510179 . I hope it's ok to share the links here. If not, email me and I'll forward them. :)
Rabid Little Hippy Cool links. That does look really cool. I'm sure a quality sheet is pretty strong, but used sheets usually become pretty weak, I guess that was my main concern. I'd like to make one of those tarps. I like tarp camping and the oil cloth tarp I have is old and heavier than I'd like it to be. Let me know how it goes. It's pretty easy to do some small tests. I think you'll find that most of the old recipes use a filling material of some kind.
You used the term "riff off of"
Bonus point!
Very happy to have found your channel, especially since you lit a fire under my ass with your biochar vids. Many wishes for future success and videos.
Thank you!
Thanks for the info! I knew some of it already but always adding to that knowledge base! BTW, I read the warnings! LOL! Too true on the hemp stuff also. I had a hemp shirt once upon a time, wore like iron and broke in nicely but it was canvas like. It would never be as nice as linen, it's impossible to get as fine of fibers from hemp as you can from flax. Enjoy your work, carry on!
I've seen some nice hemp cloth and fiber, but typically they are more rough. I'm not sure how much of that is limitations of hemp v.s. just lower effort on the part of manufacturers. I think that the whiteness of linen had partially to do with it 's popularity. Hemp is great, I just get tired of the bullshit propaganda.
and good for you for reading he warnings :)
SkillCult hell, I read 'em before I buy anything! LOL! Agreed on the hemp, I think it would produce finer fibers but the makers stop short. Perhaps we will see in the future. Carry on, dig your work!
Only watched this for the Hemp Rant. Keep up the good work.
Great explanation. Very useful info. Thanks for sharing.
That ax handle is a thing of beauty. Regarding the "boiled" linseed oil being full of solvents and lead, look out for Teak Oil too; Teak Oil is another "oil" that is actually an oil based solvent and not a natural oil...found that out the unpleasant way also. Thanks for the video.
Best vid yet! Thanks a ton. I've got a half dozen handles to repair.
Thanks, my thoughts have evolved a little on the subject. I'm even more into saturation and penetration and much less concerned about finish. Short version, lots of oil to fill the wood to some depth, then you don't need any finish. Cheers.
Super insightful, brother! Thanks for the share!
I LOVE your hemp rant and agree 100%. It’s not as strong as a fabric and degrades SO MUCH faster from sunlight that linen or even nylon polymers and the oil is way too expensive
I don't think it should be expensive. In common production, it should probably be cheaper than linseed oil. the fiber as well. It's good fiber, hemp just isn't better than everything else, always.
First time comment, skillcult rules!! I love axes and he covers everything about them. Keep the videos coming
:)
BEWARE OF BIG HEMP! seriously hell yeah, thanks for this. I tried this on my knife's handle now I'm gonna do it on my wok's handle. the info on boiled linseed oil was great possibly lifesaving
Ha ha.
Straight forward..good stuff..i agree on your outcome..ive done bout everything in the past n ya the lead in boiled lineseed not good..The rant on Hemp is great..the truth..love it..rock on in the sticks brother..out..
The best explanations on CZcams!
thank you, I try!
Thank you for a great interesting and really informative video, very well explained, I have just made a wooden carving mallet and was just looking for the best finish for it, I usually use boiled linseed oil and now will take your advice and try find raw linseed oil, although I have never seen it here N.Ireland
Thank you again (just subscribed)
Take care and be safe
Sam
Thumbs up on this video, especially the Hemp Rant [long may it wave]. I concede all of your points regarding these oils. This is more by way of a suggestion than a quibble regarding Tung Oil: Back when military gunstocks were wood, the U.S. Army switched from Raw Linseed Oil to Raw Tung Oil as an 'initial arsenal dipping tank treatment' [follow-on field maintenance remained with Linseed Oil due to ready availability] for two main reasons 1) Moisture intrusion resistance -and- 2) A higher 'smoke' temperature [due to barrel heating during sustained fire; the smoke potentially revealing your position]. Admittedly reason 2 is unlikely to have relevance in axe use unless every time you look over your shoulder you are looking at Babe your blue ox. But, moisture resistance has practical benefits in field use in wet/damp weather; built up Linseed Oil finishes on rifle stocks get gummy in the wet and require attention to remove impressed fingerprints and the like [much less of an issue with the primarily in-the-wood finishes on handles but that moisture is still getting through the finish]. Tung Oil is significantly less prone to taking up moisture and is part of the reason Chinese watercraft used it as a wood preserving finish for centuries [that and the fact that is grown over there]. OK, finally to my narrow application for Tung Oil, it occurred to that it might be useful for your rawhide wraps in keeping moisture from both the rawhide and the hide glue as well a being a decent alternative to Raw Linseed Oil [except for cost] as a handle treatment. I started watching your videos with your Husqvarna 26" Axe series because I bought their 19" Carpenter's Axe a month ago and in handling it came to pretty nearly the same conclusions as you did regarding the handle configuration for 'choked up' use [little to no two-hand use on this one]; grain orientation is great, a bit of a gap at the front of the eye, but too big, too fat up near the cheeks. I guess I'm a subscriber now.
thanks for all that. The way I do my handles now, I like the slow drying effect of raw linseed oil. I really don't have a lot of experience with Tung and any I've used was probably a formula. I have some tung oil now, that is pure, but haven't had any cause to use it beyond testing, which I haven't got to yet. I am using more saturation of the outer rind of wood now and I think in that context and not worrying about coating the surface once saturation is acheived, it is quite water resistant. I've not noticed any stickness, but again, it's in the wood and not really a built up coating. here is some more up to date info on how I operate and think now, which is slightly evolved from this video. czcams.com/video/ueVi_NObci0/video.html
thank you.keep spreading the knowledge .
This is a GREAT VIDEO!!! I have a lot of Wooden handled tools. I always buy WOOD HANDLES. Always. It might all be in my head, but I swear I can detect the difference from the Wooden handles from Fiberglass or steel. There is something about it being ORGANIC. Our Muscles Bones and the rest of our bodies are Organic too. So seems I do NOT fatigue as quick with my organic tools. Especially with HAMMERS or anything that is exposed to the "shock" of Hammering. The heavier the hammer the more this seems to be. I especially ENJOYED the "rant" on HEMP. I agree totally, we have so many MAGPIES that will repeat and repeat crap they heard once it sounds "trendy". Hemp makes good cord and rope, or the rough fabrics like you mentioned. But Hemp is not the "Cure All end All" they hold it out to be. The IDEA that hemp can improve your life and the taste of Beer is NEW and people seem to LIKE sitting around and talking the latest Bullshit. Hemp has its uses, but man, the things they say it will cure is ridiculous. Great Video!!
Great instruction and information. Thanks!
Really great video. I really appreciate that safety is such a prominent theme amongst all your videos. I loved the bonus hemp rant at the end. Too bad the battery died.
Wonderful video! Thank you so very much!
I like to add a bit of transmission oil to the linseed oil to get a bit of a reddish hue. Used to do that for teac on boats.
Good presentation very helpful.
Looking forward to more and thank you!
Very informative. I've always oiled the tongue of the handle at the head as well, my Dad and Granddad always did. No idea why. Presumably to keep the handle supple and less likely to split or maybe or waterproofing against Scottish weather. Always used teak oil for everything
Thanks, that's interesting. I've soaked them in oil, but I've started to have doubts about that. Usually I leave that end alone until there's a problem, but I'm not sure what's best.
Teak oil is a mixture of drying oil [usually linseed oil] and solvent [white spirit or pure turpentine] I find the mixture penetrates better than neat linseed.
@@SkillCult I think it way more important to have the handle end absolutely bone dry when fitted to the head. If I'm not in a hurry, I'll leave the head end of the handle in mildish heat, above an electric greenhouse heater overnight before fitting. Apart from a touch of linseed on the wedge and a wipe over the inside of the eye to lubricate handle seating and wedge driving, I leave the oiling till after the axe is hung. That is the time to stand the head in oil for a few days to help to soak up as much as possible to prevent big changes in wood moisture content which could lead to head coming loose.
Thanks for making informative videos man
The hemp "rant" was on point. I continually hear the same general contention regarding cannabis and CBD products, as if it's some type of cure-all wonder drug.
You get that with lots of things, diets, biochar, no til, mulch, etc etc. People like the panacea thing. But hemp/cannabis is especially bad.
Eight years later : Exactly the information I was looking for. --- Thanks for the great upload. ---
Watch my newer content on oiling handles. The one on penetration, saturation and coating.
Excellent video, I really enjoyed your presentation. No bullshit or theatrics 🙏thank you.
New sub.
Nice no BS vid - thanks, I learnt a fair bit about Linseed Oil.
thanks :)
Though its probably not feasible to mimic....I did some exhaust fan ducting in the General Electric motor rebuilding plant on a HUGE vacuum canister years ago. The canister was roughly a 14' round hydraulically operated affair filled with winding insulation that liquified when heated. Overhead cranes would lower monstrous windings into the insulation and then closed. A deep vacuum was then drawn on the container for a specific duration of time then the components would be removed and hung over the opened vat to drip excess back into the vat. Hence the need for fume removal via the exhaust ducting.
Talking to the workers there I found out that the newly rewound locomotive drive components were having the liquified insulation drawn completely through the new windings by being submerged in the vat at a specific level of vacuum. Speed ahead now..... IF you could create a small atmosphere for that to occur in your attempt at full penetration of the handles I am wondering if that would work in your favor. I'm thinking like 3" schedule 40 pvc, 36" long with the end cap drilled and threaded with the appropriate mpt fittings to convert to a male flare which would then connect to an old refrigerator compressor via 1/4" copper. Maybe even a cheap vacuum guage in the circuit for good measure.
Probably not feasible, but hey who said you're only supposed to think INSIDE the darn box anyway !! Sure would put a new wrinkle in attempting to get full penetration....maybe. I'm enjoying your informative videos, btw.
Tractorman44
That's the way wood is stabilized for knife handles, gun grips etc.
Really appreciate you bringing truth to labeling! (Raw linseed vs. boiled). I knew the truth, but a lot of folks still don't. Another good use for all that organic flax oil is seasoning your cast iron!
I scored some flax oil really cheap, like almost as cheap as industrial grade raw linseed. Good stuff. I'm always applying it during the day and getting it all over my hands, so I like the food grade stuff because I can just wipe it off and keep working, eating etc...
I’ve started using a blend of natural beeswax and rendered deer, hog, or beef tallow. Melted and blended together with about a 50/50 ratio, it makes a thick paste that I smear into my bows or on my steel tools. For bows, I run the paste/bow over some open coals to drive the oil in. I carry about 12 oz of the stuff and water does not penetrate. Out in the bush I find myself just rendering down opossum and raccoon fat from traplines.
Thanks!
I've used beeswax and linseed mix and also those mixed with pitch a little bit. I haven't used it on axe handles though. At this point I'm pretty happy with everything about putting a lot of linseed into the wood except how much oil it uses and how long it takes. My newer vids on this emphasize penetration and saturation over coating, but that is more for handles. I wonder if on a bow it could cause a lot of stiffness or recovery to put too much oil in. Your approach seems likely to be a better one for bows.
Excellent, thank you for showing this
Perfect video right now, I'm watching it while oiling up my axes ; ) here in germany you can buy boiled linseed oil with no additives, I'm using it right now and it dries in about half an hour. I also like linseed mixed with hardening waxes. Thumbs up for more swearing on CZcams. All the best from Germany, Maximilian.
Ha. I have a hard time not swearing if I'm going to really get in a flow and express myself. That's just how I grew up. In the states here we are very reckless with chemicals and labeling.
great video lots of detailed information and research
+anumba1 thanks!
I actually have 5 wooden handled knives (Old Hickory and Gregsteel and Green River) submerged handle down in pure Flaxseed Oil. I noticed recently, that with the most recent knife i bought, when submerged i could see the oil being pulled through capillary action, up through the fibres of the wooden handle. So i can only conclude that at least with this knife, but possibly also with the others potentially, that yes, it is in fact very possible that the oil is effective enough to penetrate and saturate the wood, to a lesser or greater extent...
I am not about to cut a knife in half to check this, but for my purposes, I am sufficiently happy with the results I am currently experiencing... To reiterate again, I have only used pure organic Flaxseed Oil, it has not been diluted with anything, no thinners.
Your videos on axes and oiling tool handles should be considered a master class, at least compulsory reading expecially to people just starting out. Thank you so much for your time and best efforts :) Sincerely yours, Marcus McKenzie.... Props from Down Under...
Thanks mate :) I think it is more likely with a short piece with lots of endgrain exposed. Hickory, oak and similar woods really have some long straw like tubes running through them that are just full of air. With an axe handle, that effect is going to be much less useful since the handle is long. but it does go in a lot from the outside, so with long soaking, It seems pretty likely you could get full penetration and saturation, or close. I'm not sure how useful that really is. It might be more useful in a kitchen knife, but practically speaking, really only if it's not well cared for, or maybe in extreme conditions, like a fisherman or professional food processing applications. I've been pretty temped to cut a good axe handle in half ha ha. I did cut a notch out of a hammer handle that is still there...
Totally agree, I used boiled linseed just once and felt like shit immediately after it, gave the damn can away. Love natural linseed and the stunning long term finish on my gear especially when my hands have been 'interacting ' with the finish. Great information on your vids, cheers.
Took me a while to figure it out, but around the same time realized that it is most petroleum solvents and diesel fuel that give me the same symptoms.
Thanks for the great info.
am I going to find anybody on CZcams that really has some serious knowledge about raw linseed oil? Don't know if it was the sleeveless shirt or beard but that's where I went and got all the knowledge I needed! Appreciate the info and ya got a new subscriber if ya still have a channel
Raw linseed oil. One coat for a day for a week, one coat for a week for a month, one coat for a month for a year. But you also explained it beautifully.😊
excellent info my friend, exactly what i needed for applying oil on my new axe. i have check your Amazon link, it is actually for a boiled linseed product not raw .
+supernova1976 thanks, fixed. I actually changed the link to a food grade oil that is as cheap or cheaper than the industrial stuff. The sunnyside oil smells a bit like solvents to me, actually a lot. Not sure what's up with that, but I'm sure it is extracted with solvents. This is amazingly cheap. I wouldn't eat it, but it should be safe to use on anything for sure. amzn.to/1q12f6Z
Thank you for the boiled vs. non-boiled linseed oil opinion. I have been putting off boiling my food-grade flax oil. I'll try without boiling.
I have wondered about thinning linseed oil with mineral spirits. This would be for the "first coat" in order to encourage deep penetration.
I don't think it matters if you just boil it briefly to get rid of impurities. For handles, raw seems to work fine. I tend to concentrate on saturation more than I used to and hvae other vids talking about that now. I friend says he uses just cheap veg oil. I might try that. It's not as drying, but it still does dry and for soaking handles, probably fine.
thanks. I never knew about the lead.
Great video, thank you. Prompted by it I have just checked the side of a bottle of "Teak Oil" that I recently bought for some walking sticks my children and I made ourselves: YUK, I certainly won't be buying any more of that!!! From now on I'll be looking for food grade raw linseed oil only, as you advise.
Many of my tools with wooden handles have decades of grime in the wood - some I inherited from my Granddad - so I'd be very interested to learn your thoughts on how best to prepare those before treating with raw linseed oil, please.
I found your channel through Essential Craftsman, and have subscribed to it, so I hope you'll keep up the great videos. There's really nothing like this in England, at least not that I know of, so you're sharing knowledge that seems sadly lost to most of us...
You can get pure teak oil, but you have to sniff it out, or would you guys say sus?:) I learned that watching english crime dramas lol, but maybe the usage isn't right. Raw flax is easy enough to find here, though it's expensive. I actually stopped using the industrial stuff because it smells like solvent even though is says pure raw linseed oil. I've found pure raw food grade flax oil for really cheap though at the discount food store. Almost as cheap as the industrial stuff.
Don't worry about grime! If the finish is not to your liking, sand o scrape it till it is, then oil. Dirt is no problem, unless it's preventing penetration. If you have old checked handles though, it should soak in great and it will do them a world of good. I may reshoot this and emphasis saturation. That's what it's about to me. Not necessarily super deep, but saturating an outer rind, maybe like 1/8 to 1/4 inch. it takes time, maybe even weeks, and uses a lot of oil, but it's awesome.
I certainly plan to keep it up. My goal if anything is to help people get back to being what most people used to be, which is having at least a basic competence regarding common materials and processes. Just understanding how things work better instead of walking around in an essentially foreign environment all day in terms of our understanding of the things and stuff and phenomena around us and what it is possible to do with them. Check out Paul Sellers if you haven't. He's awesome.
Oh I'm not worried about the embedded grime on some of my older tool handles: I look on that as many decades of irreplaceable patina, and a small connection back to my Granddad who undoubtedly helped to put it there :-) I've owned and enjoyed using some of these tools for decades, so the least I can do for them now is to treat them to a few weeks of TLC with some oil as per your advice. There's no immediate hurry though, so I'll start by checking out various foodstores for linseed oil, although I don't think I've ever seen it outside of sports/DIY stores in UK and never used for cooking or even described as food-safe. If I find it cheap, and food-safe, I'll let you know so you can tell others in UK.
"Sus" is an interesting word, but (officially at least) it mostly relates to some form of suspected criminal activity. There's a law in UK that allows a Police officer to stop anyone who he has grounds to *suspect" may be doing/carrying something illegal. It's commonly referred to as the "Sus Law" (and unsurprisingly is unpopular among those who fit the demographic most likely to be stopped...). It's sometimes also used as a colloquial alternative to "understand" e.g. "I need to sus out the answer to this problem" so you were close with your usage, but I've never heard it used in regards to finding a physical object (only the answer to a problem). Hopefully that helps?
I'll check out Paul Sellars, thank you. And thanks too for taking the time and trouble to respond in detail above, I really appreciate it.
Great information man. Thanks.
I also love the patina linseed oil puts on the steel tool heads too.
+BeSatori Thanks. I haven't used it too much for that unless I"m putting something away to keep it from rusting I have burned it on, usually with beeswax as a finish on metalwork hot out of the forge. That will stave off rust for quite a while.
Yeah, I imagine that would season it like a cast iron.
Really appreciate the video, just what I was looking for to answer my question. I like to go buy used tools at garage sales. I'm wondering would it help if I sand the old grey wood off the handle. Would that add any benefit to the life of the handle ? I like restoring useful things. I guess it's just a habit I picked up from my Grand parents and parents who lived through the great depression. Again, Thanks for the video. Short, concise and to the point.
I suppose it might, but probably not unless it is very compromised. Most handles could stand to be thinned down anyway, so scraping that wood off with a knife held at a right angle might be called for anyway. Maybe check out this vid. czcams.com/video/MtycSBUtP0o/video.html
Great job bro! Subscribed!
Nice vid thanks for the effort and info!
Hey there, I just found your channel, and I’m so glad I did. You have given me lots of good information. Do you have any opinions about the marbles camp axe?
I don't. I know they used to be a reputable brand that kind of sold out to cheap overseas production. Never seen one in person.
Hey Steven, I just discovered your channel and I'm digging the unique content. Quick question on handle oiling...I've read that some folks submerge the head of the tool in linseed oil to nourish the wood inside the eye, not just as a remedial measure for loose heads but for routine handle maintenance. Have you come across this practice in your travels? It seems like a great way to waste oil but on the other hand it make sense to condition the eye wood as well. Anyway, keep up the good work man!
Hey, welcome aboard.I do that too, but I've found that it only works once if you do it thoroughly, because the oil cures in there and seals it off. After that, you are stuck with re-wedging, not that there is anything wrong with wedging to tighten heads. I actually have some cognitive dissonance about doing it though from something that happened with a linseed oil saturated piece of wood. I've done it a lot though and it seems to work pretty well. I might revisit that subject with some experiments sometime.
Have you ever looked into Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP? It's a bees wax base along with propolis. It dries well and makes handles, metal, and leather waterproof, or at least resistant. It offers grip without stick. I even use it on my feet and beard. It's supposed to have antibacterial, anti fungal, and anti-inflammatory properties. I absolutely love it. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Sounds interesting. I don't like buying things, lol, but I have propolis and beeswax and have contemplated experiments with mixes of stuff with linseed oil. Maybe I'll get around to that this summer. I'm all about penetration and saturation, more than in this video. Surface finish isn't that relevant, so whatever it is a lot of it has to soak in.
SkillCult it has other oils in it that are undisclosed. It penetrates well and makes the handles look beautiful.
Thanks for the info on "boiled" linseed. I never looked and I don't want to work lead into my skin. You can find more info on Adventure Sworn's web page. Thank you for all your videos.
That HDLP is amazing. I rub all my shoes/boots inside and out and have no foot odor with well used footwear. I live in an RV so stinky boots on the drier would fill the rv with odor. Just smells like honey. And yes, it works great on handles too! I buy it by the gallon. I use BLO for first 5 or 6 coats and finish off with HDLP on handles.
I just watched this again, after many months, and I still have never understood why he crossed out walnut oil, and never covered why. I like it.
It was left over from a previous take that I didn't use and I just forgot to talk about it. It's fine and sometimes cheaper than raw linseed on amazon.
I've been using wax on my new handles. I melt it on the stove, brush it on to bare wood, then scrape off the excess once it cools. It leaves a really nice, soft feel and makes the wood hydrophobic. I wonder how this compares to oil.
If the handle is well saturated, it will be sealed. I worry less about surface finish now than when I made this video. See this one. czcams.com/video/ueVi_NObci0/video.html
I took a new 'well-known' maker axe handle and did the following. #180 sandpaper to remove tooling marks, #220 and #320 to make the hickory really smooth. Then I burnished the wood for awhile. I'm always astonished at what simple burnishing does to wood. It's almost effortless.
Now, on Steven's recommendation I bought some food-grade 100% pure linseed oil (KTC brand, Amazon) and applied it to the burnished wood thinking it would take a week to dry. I was wrong. The first coat is usually the fastest to dry. This non-boiled linseed oil appeared dry in less than 30 minutes. (It's dry and hot here in Southern California as I write this). That is about what the BLO took on a different axe handle.
I will let it set for a few more days before I try to add a second coat.
I just don't understand how that old adage about 'coat the handle once a day for a week, once a week for a month and once a month for a year'. Has that worked for anyone? Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but that seems like a lot of oil to me.
I have a more updated video on oiling tool handles you can look up. I think it's called something like penetration, saturation and coating. I'll usually leave them pretty rough, but take out most of the tool marks. If you use an axe a lot it smooths out pretty good.