Поставил себе подобный насос, только серия 51, с 5 камерами, в прицеп-капля. Плюс после насоса врезал аккумулятор на 5 литров. Это просто сказка парни! Рекомендую 👍
I'm using the SHURFLO 4008-101-A65 with a accumulator after the pump and It is so quiet now that you can hardly tell if it on from 5 feet away. It is a 4 piston design so I'm sure that changes the frequency it outputs.
I really wish I would have put my accumulator tank directly after the water pump. Probably would have been much quieter. Would have helped to use flexible hose throughout the build instead of PEX as well. I purchased the Shurflo pump new from Amazon, but that's not to say it didn't have an un-balanced motor or a weird manufacturing defect. Would love to hear more feedback from other Shurflo owners as well to determine if mine was doomed from the start or if the 3-piston units are just a bit noisy. Thanks for checking it out and for the feedback! Cheers! -Tim
You should consider an accumulator it will run the pump a lot less and sea flow is a lot quieter pump. your plastic issue could be solved with a "sea strainer or filter
Thanx for the heads up here, you just saved not only me from a significant hassle, thinking about buying some wholesale for a new product I'm developing.
Glad to hear it helped! I just saw "Seaflo" has a few other pumps as well. Not positive on their performance, but these units have been working great in both vans I've installed them in!
Hey great find! My Shurflo's days are numbered now, as it has gotten noisier and noisier with only a year of use. Ordering with your affiliate link and subscribing.
BTW I used all steel braided hoses and threaded fittings for my camper van water system no more clamps and PVC vinyl lines so much better too better flow too
My shurflo is 33 years old. Original to my RV. I got it to be a little more quiet by drilling it through a rubber pad so it wasn’t directly on the floor anymore. Do you have your pump on a metal surface? But mine has been leaking and the leak is why I’m replacing it. Going to try the sea flo and hopefully it’ll be quieter. It comes in tomorrow morning.
Part of the problem other than your model of the Shurflo isn't an RV pump, Shurflo makes a 4008-101-E65 Revolution pump designed for the RV market and is on about 80% of all new Motor Homes and Trailers manufactured, due to its being quiet and smooth, it also has the rubber mounting feet that your Seaflo copied. Not saying Seaflo is bad, you just need to make sure you're comparing like product. Also, if you ran the pump without the strainer on the inlet side the plastic shreds from whoever drilled out your water tank get caught in the pump diaphragms and cause it to run louder and also poorly. When the Shurflo 4008 series is mounted correctly, you typically have a light hum and when it's in a cabinet, it's difficult to hear at all.
Hello: My ShureFlo 4008 on my Leisure Travel Van sounds like a jackhammer and comes on without a faucet being open. All this just a few months after I had a tankless water heater installed to replace a failing Suburban 6 gal tank unit. Coincidence? After watching this video with all of his problems with plastic debris in the intake line….I’m going to replace the entire pump. I did respond with a comment stating that his choice of a water pump located among his electrical service is questionable…yikes!
@@dogzdad123 Hi Dean, Before running out to buy a new pump, I'd first try and adjust the pressure demand switch. There are a lot of videos on CZcams that show how to do this easy adjustment, using only a 5/64ths Allen wrench. The best part is you most likely won't have to remove the pump. I've attached a link to a video from a guy who does this for the first time and shows how easy it can be. czcams.com/video/_KySSE7gEcA/video.html
@@4lostinamerica I failed to mention that I had already tried that suggestion and it still makes enough noise to raise the dead…hence, just go buy a new unit. Once removed, tear apart the old pump…if it can be repaired, keep it as a spare. Thanks so much for replying!
@@Scrambler85 yes, after the pump but read what pressure cut out on your pump and set it about 2psi lower ( read the instructions) if you get it ass about it won’t turn off. It’s easy.
My shurflo is not mounted. It's hanging by the hoses. I've slipped a beer koozie over it and made a larger foam koozie over that. No more irritating noise.
Definitely a sign of the rushed build. Have since moved the batteries and stuck the pump down at floor level. Still not ideal, but a step in the right direction!
Seaflow is better technology and proven to be quieter. If you add a Seaflow accumulator tank and mount both units on a remote rubber base, you can harrdly hear the pump. The accumulator also gives a nice smooth water flow without the pulsing problem
Right at 4:25 you show the plumbing and a red wire passing over steel strapping please cover that up cause vibration over time will cut through all that and give you a huge issue
I was wondering if mine was just defective. I was planning on using a thick foam for mounting, but after hearing how quiet the "SeaFlo" unit was with no additional silencing, I just ended up going that route. I do see the ShurFlo's have bigger models they claim are quieter!
1)Those 2 pumps are "displacement" pumps, not a "centrifugal" which do need to be primed. Displacement pumps NEVER need primping, they ARE self priming. That is ONE reason why you would use one over the other. When your tank goes empty, you fill your tank and they self prime. You never ran out of water?? did you have to prime the pump? NO??? Think about it. 2)@ 16:48 when the shot is in focus you can clearly see the clear new water line is collapsed. That's why the plastic shavings are caught there. The collapsed water line stopped it at that point. That water line will not do in that application. It is restricting water flow and could get increase over time along the length of the hose. That's got to come out. It's the wrong hose in that application. You always match the material with the requirements where it's used. It's meant to be under pressured side on the pump. Not on the suctions side. 3)There was no reason to mess with the water line except you did discover the plastic shavings in the line because of that. That shaving came from drilling into the tank to add the fittings. There's no health issue there.
Thanks for the info! I have run out of water and had to re-prime a few times (real pain!) but it was probably just due to the giant gob of plastic shavings clogging the inlet... Will keep a close eye on the water line and listen for any irregularities in the pump. The line shouldn't completely collapse unless there's a restriction though right? (Kind of like trying to drink water through a plastic straw vs a thick smoothie? One flows fine while the other collapses?) - Just thinking out loud on that for now! Appreciate the insight. I'm always learning! -Tim
Just insulate the pump itself . And put foam soft plate shim under the pump and body between . Spray sh!t load of foam sealer over it . Then create sound buffer box and cover it. With in
@@VanwithTim Brushless motors are typically used for motion control, stepped positioning or actuator applications and when variable speed is needed. Like on Quadcopters or in Robotics. They're not suited for pumping water (driving pumps). I'd say forget it.
@@VanwithTim i have a brushless water pump on my pond that works out off a 330w 24v solar panel during the day 2+ years working almost every day No problem
I know I've had to prime both the Seaflo and Shurflo units before they would build pressure. (Usually by sucking the air out of an open faucet while the pump runs). Unfortunately I didn't mount the pump below water level so it has to travel against gravity to reach the pump. Both units were near silent until the water hit them, then they started making their respective noises.
@@VanwithTim Through a little work, I found out mine does make pressure, but it's something strange with the hot water tank. The HW tank isn't wired yet, but it is plumbed. Nonetheless, pressure was building up in this tank, which was tripping the pressure switch and not allowing the pump to work. What I don't know is why the pressure in the HW tank didn't cause water to flow in the hot line. But if I opened the HW tank drain, water would flow out of that.
@@stellijer That’s a first for me. So there’s pressure in the cold water side and also inside the hot water tank, but no pressure at the hot water pipe coming off the tank? I know many modern hot water tanks have built in backflow preventers (one way check valves) I wonder if the check valve is faulty and not allowing flow in ANY direction? Which hot water heater model do you have?
@@VanwithTim Yes, to a degree. Problem is, no pressure was building on the cold side OR the hot. So I thought maybe the pump was shot. But after a little playing around, I found there was plenty of pressure in the HW tank, if I opened the relief drain. Even though none was coming out of the hot side into the fixtures. So I emptied it out into the bilge, and noticed the pump started making noise. I shut off the pump, let the HW tank empty completely, until there was no pressure. So I flipped the breaker back on to the pump, with the relief valve open, and water started flowing out of the valve, with the pump chugging along. But nothing out of either side in the fixtures. Bottom line, I could build pressure in that tank, but not in the lines. Apparently, the pump was shutting off because of the pressure building up in the tank, backing into the pump and causing it to shut down (which is what the pressure sensor should do). Interesting thought about the check valve. It would explain a lot it it were faulty. I was also wondering if the HW tank may have a feature where the water is kept in, and pressurized, until it gets hot, and then the valve opens and lets it out? I don't know, as the HW heater has to get wired up by the boat guy (long story). At the very least, it might be a good idea to have a check valve between the HW tank and the pressure pump, to keep pressure from building up from the HW heater back to the pump. I just thought of one other crazy idea, though, I'll have to check on. It makes sense a HW heater would also have a check valve to keep water from BACKFLOWING out the tank. I wonder if there's a chance the guy who plumbed it might have gotten the in and the out reversed...???
@@stellijer Really strange for sure. My next step would probably be seeing if any water comes out of the hot water outlet with the hot side plumbing disconnected. Maybe even check to make sure there’s not a plastic cap inside the water heater hot outlet. I know some heaters ship with their outlets blocked to keep the inside sealed from debris. I’ve heard of thermally controlled valves being used in the automotive world for cabin heat, but never in a water heater (could be possible - the marine world certainly has its own quirks.)
I just calculated my flow rates in Gallons Per Minute last week: the faucet is only 0.32GPM and the shower is only 0.58GPM. So in that regard, the pump is total overkill. Two things that I do like about it though: 1) 45PSI water pressure keeps the 2-gallon expansion tank and 4-gallon water heater happy. 2) The 3GPM pump is kind of needed with my poorly planned setup. I never added a drain valve to the 75 gallon water tank, so when sanitizing / flushing the system, I have to rely on the water pump to empty the tank. (At 3 GPM it still takes 25 minutes to drain.) It works for us, but for simpler setups, there are much more affordable pumps. They won't build pressure, but will work well enough to replace the simple foot-pump! Hope that helps! -Tim
@@coreybabcock2023 Haha yes, definitely super heavy, but really nice especially with nightly showers for two and a lot of cooking! Luckily it's a HD suspension setup and handles the weight beautifully.
Bill Stewart commented about a $12 pump he uses! Sounds like it's not great for creating pressure or high flow, but works great for a simple sink setup! -Tim
I actually have a nicely sized accumulator, but I foolishly installed it at the other end of the plumbing system. Works great as an accumulator, but does nothing to dampen the water pump vibrations / noise. Lesson learned the hard way! -Tim
@@VanwithTim Well glad ur sharing ur experiences with the rest of us! Definitely helpful in the build I will be attempting in next few weeks. Do you plan on relocating it sometime?
@@weirdsciencetv4999 I think I'll keep it under the sink at this point. It's super silent with the new water pump! Also, I know it's AWFULLY lengthy (should have uploaded segmented videos) but if you're still in the planning phases of the build you might benefit from a couple sections of the van regret video too: czcams.com/video/opOaJkHXDSg/video.html
@@VanwithTim ooh thanks! I’ll watch it right now. The 14 gal poop tank just arrived from Amazon. I also bought a macerating pump to see if I can empty the tank into my guest bathroom. Hopefully macerating pumps arent going to be in the regrets category
That would be interesting, I wonder if it lowers the pump voltage to slow it or if it's a modified pulse width style controller. But yeah for the price, could probably just spend the big $$ on a premium silent 5 chamber pump.
It seriously sounded EXACTLY like a generator. Had a super small leak at the water heater and the pump would turn on in the middle of the night. Scares the socks off of a guy at 3am!
@@VanwithTim You can suspect you have a leak when the water pump cycles for no reason twice in one night. Cycling once is forgivable, maybe. There are conditions where it will cycle once without a leak. That's why I would never connect to a city pressured connection. If your at an RV park for a wile and have a leak you won't know as fast as if you stay on your 12v pumped water.
@@sailingsolar2371 I do turn my 4-gallon water heater off at night. I suspect the cooling water shrinks in volume enough to cycle the pump. (Actually didn't realize water expanded this much when heated: czcams.com/video/R8QsllztZ68/video.html) But you're also spot on about the leaks! Found a super slow leak at that water heater connection. Probably wouldn't have noticed it had the cycling pump not been a red-flag. Cheers! -Tim
That is what happens when you are cheap and buy one of their general use pumps instead of their actual RV pumps....... But hey the customer is always right eh
My ShureFlo in my motorhome sounds like a jack hammer. I cleaned out the metal filter screen….still deafening. Watched this video and bucked-up and just ordered a direct replacement from Amazon. Hope that nuclear option remedies the noise. BTW: Locating a water pump interwoven in your electrical service???? That’s a bit risky?🫣
Hope your replacement is a bit quieter! That water pump in the electrical cabinet was certainly the byproduct of a rushed build. I've since moved it down into the footwell and relocated the batteries from the cabinet. Still not anywhere near ideal but slightly better. -Tim
@@VanwithTim Hey, Tim… Thanks for your feedback. This is a Whack-a-Mole project. The new pump is installed and runs quiet….but not any better performance. Originally, the pump would come on in the middle of the night and intermittently surge at the kitchen faucet. With the new pump that’s been resolved (?) Now there’s water droplets coming from the outlet side PEX crimp ring. Was this originally causing the surging , who knows? I’m going to replace the 1/2 inch coupling with a metal braided residential water line (splice-in). Like I said, Whack-a-Mole. Wish me luck.
@@dogzdad123 yikes. Hopefully it’s at least easily accessible! Are you turning off your water heater at night? I know water has a very small amount of expansion / contraction with temperature. Maybe it cools enough to shrink and drop the system pressure? Totally grasping at straws here
@@VanwithTim Tim: I have a 2014 Leisure Travel Van motorhome (on a 25 ft Mercedes Sprinter Chassis). The pump assembly is located in the rear bath, under the sink, in a cabinet. It’s easy to get to, but tight to work in…shocking! My home is in the SF Bay Area, CA so the weather is temperate. This all started after I had the gas Suburban water heater professionally replaced with a tankless Girard unit a few months ago. Coincidence…who knows? The fix I have planned is pretty straight forward. Just waiting for the rain to stop (nothing worse than tracking mud and muck inside the rig). What else can go South???
Oh my gosh, what a difference, thank-you for doing the research and sharing.
Mounting is key to stop most reverb 👍🏻
or get a pump that is quiet!
yea well he just did the comparison and you need to quit smoking whatever you can get your hands on.
Поставил себе подобный насос, только серия 51, с 5 камерами, в прицеп-капля. Плюс после насоса врезал аккумулятор на 5 литров. Это просто сказка парни! Рекомендую 👍
I'm using the SHURFLO 4008-101-A65 with a accumulator after the pump and It is so quiet now that you can hardly tell if it on from 5 feet away. It is a 4 piston design so I'm sure that changes the frequency it outputs.
I really wish I would have put my accumulator tank directly after the water pump. Probably would have been much quieter. Would have helped to use flexible hose throughout the build instead of PEX as well.
I purchased the Shurflo pump new from Amazon, but that's not to say it didn't have an un-balanced motor or a weird manufacturing defect.
Would love to hear more feedback from other Shurflo owners as well to determine if mine was doomed from the start or if the 3-piston units are just a bit noisy.
Thanks for checking it out and for the feedback!
Cheers!
-Tim
I have the same shurflo pump (4008- etc) with accumulator. Really quiet great steady pressure.
@@bkad6238agree
Love it, it's the small things that can drive you crazy in the long term. Thanks tim. God damn pumps.
You should consider an accumulator it will run the pump a lot less and sea flow is a lot quieter pump. your plastic issue could be solved with a "sea strainer or filter
It is NOT a knock off... it's just better technology... quiet because it runs smoother due to its constant flow feature... from a low GPM to high!
I remember you now I watched your videos years ago and it helped me with doing my setup ideas
Thanx for the heads up here, you just saved not only me from a significant hassle, thinking about buying some wholesale for a new product I'm developing.
Glad to hear it helped!
I just saw "Seaflo" has a few other pumps as well. Not positive on their performance, but these units have been working great in both vans I've installed them in!
Hey great find! My Shurflo's days are numbered now, as it has gotten noisier and noisier with only a year of use. Ordering with your affiliate link and subscribing.
BTW I used all steel braided hoses and threaded fittings for my camper van water system no more clamps and PVC vinyl lines so much better too better flow too
Thank for this overview .Very helpful
Great video!! Thanks for the information! you saved me some headache!
That shurflo silencer kit hose is sufficient for high flow but that plastic in the line is the major issue
My shurflo is 33 years old. Original to my RV. I got it to be a little more quiet by drilling it through a rubber pad so it wasn’t directly on the floor anymore. Do you have your pump on a metal surface? But mine has been leaking and the leak is why I’m replacing it. Going to try the sea flo and hopefully it’ll be quieter. It comes in tomorrow morning.
Great job thank you for your time Sir🙏🌎🌲🌵🪨⛰
Part of the problem other than your model of the Shurflo isn't an RV pump, Shurflo makes a 4008-101-E65 Revolution pump designed for the RV market and is on about 80% of all new Motor Homes and Trailers manufactured, due to its being quiet and smooth, it also has the rubber mounting feet that your Seaflo copied. Not saying Seaflo is bad, you just need to make sure you're comparing like product. Also, if you ran the pump without the strainer on the inlet side the plastic shreds from whoever drilled out your water tank get caught in the pump diaphragms and cause it to run louder and also poorly. When the Shurflo 4008 series is mounted correctly, you typically have a light hum and when it's in a cabinet, it's difficult to hear at all.
100% agreed. My 4008 is almost silent. Really quiet. Mounted on all rubber as well.
Hello: My ShureFlo 4008 on my Leisure Travel Van sounds like a jackhammer and comes on without a faucet being open.
All this just a few months after I had a tankless water heater installed to replace a failing Suburban 6 gal tank unit.
Coincidence?
After watching this video with all of his problems with plastic debris in the intake line….I’m going to replace the entire pump.
I did respond with a comment stating that his choice of a water pump located among his electrical service is questionable…yikes!
@@dogzdad123 Hi Dean,
Before running out to buy a new pump, I'd first try and adjust the pressure demand switch. There are a lot of videos on CZcams that show how to do this easy adjustment, using only a 5/64ths Allen wrench. The best part is you most likely won't have to remove the pump. I've attached a link to a video from a guy who does this for the first time and shows how easy it can be. czcams.com/video/_KySSE7gEcA/video.html
@@4lostinamerica I failed to mention that I had already tried that suggestion and it still makes enough noise to raise the dead…hence, just go buy a new unit.
Once removed, tear apart the old pump…if it can be repaired, keep it as a spare.
Thanks so much for replying!
Yep My 4008 is pretty quiet
Heck yea bro! I almost made a big mistake. Thank you! Do you not think it is necessary to use an accumulator?
Use an accumulater as well. Problem solved. Cheers 🍻 from AUS 🇦🇺
Are they installed before the pump? I assume so.
@@MEOxley23 after the pump
@@Scrambler85 yes, after the pump but read what pressure cut out on your pump and set it about 2psi lower ( read the instructions) if you get it ass about it won’t turn off. It’s easy.
My shurflo is not mounted. It's hanging by the hoses. I've slipped a beer koozie over it and made a larger foam koozie over that. No more irritating noise.
Great video. Good job!!
Lol!! Thanks for the laugh on that intro. So funny
Great video man!
Thank you Daniel!
It might not be a good idea to mount the pump and all those water fittings in the same area and above all the electrical!!!
Definitely a sign of the rushed build.
Have since moved the batteries and stuck the pump down at floor level.
Still not ideal, but a step in the right direction!
Very much agree
Can you send me the link to the fitting you use to connect PEX to the flexible water line?
thanks man good shout
Seaflow is better technology and proven to be quieter. If you add a Seaflow accumulator tank and mount both units on a remote rubber base, you can harrdly hear the pump. The accumulator also gives a nice smooth water flow without the pulsing problem
Not sure I I have a good ele connection, with power from switch to pump, will the pump make noise if faucets are not open.
I've got a outside shower box on my van too !
Right at 4:25 you show the plumbing and a red wire passing over steel strapping please cover that up cause vibration over time will cut through all that and give you a huge issue
Mine doesn’t make that noise. I have it mounted with valves on bottom and a rubber backing.
I was wondering if mine was just defective.
I was planning on using a thick foam for mounting, but after hearing how quiet the "SeaFlo" unit was with no additional silencing, I just ended up going that route.
I do see the ShurFlo's have bigger models they claim are quieter!
Great info.
Thank you i have to replace our Shurfo so i'll put one of these in and save half the price!
Glad it helped!
Was yours as noisy as mine? Or do you think mine was defective from the factory?
@@VanwithTim No not as noisy i can barley hear it, I'm glad i changed to seaflo.
Thanks man.
How's the seaflo holding up man? Helpful video🤙
Thanks Elton, Seaflo has been good but haven't used the van much this past year. Not sure about constant daily use but I can't imagine and issues!
And the seaflo 33 serious is a Great pump but don't over tighten the fitting on the Pump it self it'll snap off ask me how I know lol
Thank you 👍
1)Those 2 pumps are "displacement" pumps, not a "centrifugal" which do need to be primed. Displacement pumps NEVER need primping, they ARE self priming. That is ONE reason why you would use one over the other. When your tank goes empty, you fill your tank and they self prime. You never ran out of water?? did you have to prime the pump? NO??? Think about it.
2)@ 16:48 when the shot is in focus you can clearly see the clear new water line is collapsed. That's why the plastic shavings are caught there. The collapsed water line stopped it at that point. That water line will not do in that application. It is restricting water flow and could get increase over time along the length of the hose. That's got to come out. It's the wrong hose in that application. You always match the material with the requirements where it's used. It's meant to be under pressured side on the pump. Not on the suctions side.
3)There was no reason to mess with the water line except you did discover the plastic shavings in the line because of that. That shaving came from drilling into the tank to add the fittings. There's no health issue there.
Thanks for the info!
I have run out of water and had to re-prime a few times (real pain!) but it was probably just due to the giant gob of plastic shavings clogging the inlet...
Will keep a close eye on the water line and listen for any irregularities in the pump. The line shouldn't completely collapse unless there's a restriction though right? (Kind of like trying to drink water through a plastic straw vs a thick smoothie? One flows fine while the other collapses?) - Just thinking out loud on that for now!
Appreciate the insight. I'm always learning!
-Tim
is this pump still working ? everything ive seen, people say they die fast..
I hate having my water lines and setup near my stepdown transformer and my 3000 watt aims inverter charger but got no choice
Is this the 12v or 220v? My pump is on its way out. Camper with leisure battery and hookup option. Which to buy?
Add a exspantion tank for rvs
Just insulate the pump itself . And put foam soft plate shim under the pump and body between . Spray sh!t load of foam sealer over it . Then create sound buffer box and cover it. With in
smart as a box of rocks.
You need a brushless motor water pump super silent and good presure
Forgot to mention it uses less power. 🔋
Aw man. I bet those things are crazy silent. A bit more expensive?? Sure they have a lot longer life.
@@VanwithTim Brushless motors are typically used for motion control, stepped positioning or actuator applications and when variable speed is needed. Like on Quadcopters or in Robotics. They're not suited for pumping water (driving pumps). I'd say forget it.
@@sailingsolar2371 That makes sense. I typically only hear about them in variable speed applications or devices that require extremely long life.
@@VanwithTim i have a brushless water pump on my pond that works out off a 330w 24v solar panel during the day 2+ years working almost every day No problem
I do the same thing anytime the disaster of spray foam in my van is revealed. I wouldn.t do it again just because of how ugly it is lol
Ours just growled
How much is the pump
Mine is very quiet. But there's no pressure, either.
Shall I presume mine is burned out? It's practically new.
I know I've had to prime both the Seaflo and Shurflo units before they would build pressure. (Usually by sucking the air out of an open faucet while the pump runs). Unfortunately I didn't mount the pump below water level so it has to travel against gravity to reach the pump.
Both units were near silent until the water hit them, then they started making their respective noises.
@@VanwithTim Through a little work, I found out mine does make pressure, but it's something strange with the hot water tank. The HW tank isn't wired yet, but it is plumbed. Nonetheless, pressure was building up in this tank, which was tripping the pressure switch and not allowing the pump to work. What I don't know is why the pressure in the HW tank didn't cause water to flow in the hot line. But if I opened the HW tank drain, water would flow out of that.
@@stellijer That’s a first for me.
So there’s pressure in the cold water side and also inside the hot water tank, but no pressure at the hot water pipe coming off the tank?
I know many modern hot water tanks have built in backflow preventers (one way check valves)
I wonder if the check valve is faulty and not allowing flow in ANY direction?
Which hot water heater model do you have?
@@VanwithTim Yes, to a degree. Problem is, no pressure was building on the cold side OR the hot. So I thought maybe the pump was shot. But after a little playing around, I found there was plenty of pressure in the HW tank, if I opened the relief drain. Even though none was coming out of the hot side into the fixtures. So I emptied it out into the bilge, and noticed the pump started making noise. I shut off the pump, let the HW tank empty completely, until there was no pressure. So I flipped the breaker back on to the pump, with the relief valve open, and water started flowing out of the valve, with the pump chugging along. But nothing out of either side in the fixtures. Bottom line, I could build pressure in that tank, but not in the lines.
Apparently, the pump was shutting off because of the pressure building up in the tank, backing into the pump and causing it to shut down (which is what the pressure sensor should do).
Interesting thought about the check valve. It would explain a lot it it were faulty. I was also wondering if the HW tank may have a feature where the water is kept in, and pressurized, until it gets hot, and then the valve opens and lets it out? I don't know, as the HW heater has to get wired up by the boat guy (long story).
At the very least, it might be a good idea to have a check valve between the HW tank and the pressure pump, to keep pressure from building up from the HW heater back to the pump.
I just thought of one other crazy idea, though, I'll have to check on. It makes sense a HW heater would also have a check valve to keep water from BACKFLOWING out the tank. I wonder if there's a chance the guy who plumbed it might have gotten the in and the out reversed...???
@@stellijer Really strange for sure. My next step would probably be seeing if any water comes out of the hot water outlet with the hot side plumbing disconnected.
Maybe even check to make sure there’s not a plastic cap inside the water heater hot outlet. I know some heaters ship with their outlets blocked to keep the inside sealed from debris.
I’ve heard of thermally controlled valves being used in the automotive world for cabin heat, but never in a water heater (could be possible - the marine world certainly has its own quirks.)
Question. Is that pump overkill for what your needs are?
I just calculated my flow rates in Gallons Per Minute last week: the faucet is only 0.32GPM and the shower is only 0.58GPM.
So in that regard, the pump is total overkill.
Two things that I do like about it though:
1) 45PSI water pressure keeps the 2-gallon expansion tank and 4-gallon water heater happy.
2) The 3GPM pump is kind of needed with my poorly planned setup. I never added a drain valve to the 75 gallon water tank, so when sanitizing / flushing the system, I have to rely on the water pump to empty the tank. (At 3 GPM it still takes 25 minutes to drain.)
It works for us, but for simpler setups, there are much more affordable pumps. They won't build pressure, but will work well enough to replace the simple foot-pump!
Hope that helps!
-Tim
@@VanwithTim50 gal tank ? WTF lol that is heavy ASF that's like 650 pounds of water LoL I have 30 gal water tank around 250 pounds when full
@@coreybabcock2023 Haha yes, definitely super heavy, but really nice especially with nightly showers for two and a lot of cooking! Luckily it's a HD suspension setup and handles the weight beautifully.
With a $70 bench mark, I think a guy could diy something for less....maybe a future video idea?
Bill Stewart commented about a $12 pump he uses!
Sounds like it's not great for creating pressure or high flow, but works great for a simple sink setup!
-Tim
Have you considered using a water accumulator?
I actually have a nicely sized accumulator, but I foolishly installed it at the other end of the plumbing system.
Works great as an accumulator, but does nothing to dampen the water pump vibrations / noise.
Lesson learned the hard way!
-Tim
@@VanwithTim Well glad ur sharing ur experiences with the rest of us! Definitely helpful in the build I will be attempting in next few weeks. Do you plan on relocating it sometime?
@@weirdsciencetv4999 I think I'll keep it under the sink at this point. It's super silent with the new water pump!
Also, I know it's AWFULLY lengthy (should have uploaded segmented videos) but if you're still in the planning phases of the build you might benefit from a couple sections of the van regret video too:
czcams.com/video/opOaJkHXDSg/video.html
@@VanwithTim ooh thanks! I’ll watch it right now. The 14 gal poop tank just arrived from Amazon. I also bought a macerating pump to see if I can empty the tank into my guest bathroom. Hopefully macerating pumps arent going to be in the regrets category
@@weirdsciencetv4999 Sounds like a good setup to me! Hope it all goes (flows?) smoothly haha.
Cheers!
-Tim
Jabsco makes a pricy variable speed pump controller, but I have no experience with it, and reviews are non existent.
That would be interesting, I wonder if it lowers the pump voltage to slow it or if it's a modified pulse width style controller.
But yeah for the price, could probably just spend the big $$ on a premium silent 5 chamber pump.
Just bought a REMCO PowerRV Series Aquajet 5.3 for $200. Arriving today! Free ship and $25 off summer special. We shall soon see…
wtfff my tailgator generator is 80db...she loud.
It seriously sounded EXACTLY like a generator.
Had a super small leak at the water heater and the pump would turn on in the middle of the night. Scares the socks off of a guy at 3am!
@@VanwithTim You can suspect you have a leak when the water pump cycles for no reason twice in one night. Cycling once is forgivable, maybe. There are conditions where it will cycle once without a leak. That's why I would never connect to a city pressured connection. If your at an RV park for a wile and have a leak you won't know as fast as if you stay on your 12v pumped water.
@@sailingsolar2371 I do turn my 4-gallon water heater off at night. I suspect the cooling water shrinks in volume enough to cycle the pump.
(Actually didn't realize water expanded this much when heated: czcams.com/video/R8QsllztZ68/video.html)
But you're also spot on about the leaks! Found a super slow leak at that water heater connection. Probably wouldn't have noticed it had the cycling pump not been a red-flag.
Cheers!
-Tim
🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
That is what happens when you are cheap and buy one of their general use pumps instead of their actual RV pumps....... But hey the customer is always right eh
f....amazon
vevor is better.
My ShureFlo in my motorhome sounds like a jack hammer.
I cleaned out the metal filter screen….still deafening.
Watched this video and bucked-up and just ordered a direct replacement from Amazon.
Hope that nuclear option remedies the noise.
BTW: Locating a water pump interwoven in your electrical service????
That’s a bit risky?🫣
Hope your replacement is a bit quieter!
That water pump in the electrical cabinet was certainly the byproduct of a rushed build. I've since moved it down into the footwell and relocated the batteries from the cabinet. Still not anywhere near ideal but slightly better.
-Tim
@@VanwithTim Hey, Tim… Thanks for your feedback.
This is a Whack-a-Mole project. The new pump is installed and runs quiet….but not any better performance.
Originally, the pump would come on in the middle of the night and intermittently surge at the kitchen faucet. With the new pump that’s been resolved (?)
Now there’s water droplets coming from the outlet side PEX crimp ring. Was this originally causing the surging , who knows?
I’m going to replace the 1/2 inch coupling with a metal braided residential water line (splice-in).
Like I said, Whack-a-Mole.
Wish me luck.
@@dogzdad123 yikes. Hopefully it’s at least easily accessible! Are you turning off your water heater at night? I know water has a very small amount of expansion / contraction with temperature. Maybe it cools enough to shrink and drop the system pressure? Totally grasping at straws here
@@VanwithTim
Tim: I have a 2014 Leisure Travel Van motorhome (on a 25 ft Mercedes Sprinter Chassis).
The pump assembly is located in the rear bath, under the sink, in a cabinet. It’s easy to get to, but tight to work in…shocking!
My home is in the SF Bay Area, CA so the weather is temperate.
This all started after I had the gas Suburban water heater professionally replaced with a tankless Girard unit a few months ago.
Coincidence…who knows?
The fix I have planned is pretty straight forward. Just waiting for the rain to stop (nothing worse than tracking mud and muck inside the rig).
What else can go South???
How's the seaflo holding up man? Helpful video🤙