Should You Wrap Outlets In Electrical Tape?
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
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One of the most frequent comments on my electrical videos is pointing out that I didn't wrap the receptacle in electrical tape. This isn't something I have done in the past but I was interested to get feedback from viewers. I put out a poll on the channel and got responses from over 1400 people on their opinion if you should or shouldn't wrap receptacles in electrical tape. This video outlines the results of the poll, proper application of electrical tape, and wrapping wire nuts.
Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:52 Poll Results
2:35 What Tape is Best (3M Super 33+)
3:56 Proper Application of Electrical Tape
5:27 Should You Wrap Wire Nuts
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I am glad that you actually listen to your viewers and do videos on the things they tell you to update everyone. Excellent channel thankyou!
My take: I don't wrap them unless the gang box is metal.
I am the same, thanks for the feedback!
Idk why but the metal boxes in my 1960s built home dont seem to be conductive. I touched the two screws of a live light switch to the metal box and the light didnt turn on, then I flip the switch and the lights on.
@@ThatToast was it grounded when you did that?
@@KC9UDX ungrounded light switch and ungrounded box, they used the old 2 wire snakeskin in the 60s. I would think touching the box to the two screws would be the same as turning the light switch on right?
@@ThatToast well, it's supposed to be grounded unless you took the MC out of the clamp.* But all bets are off on something that old. The thing is though, that if it is grounded, depending on resistances, you could be sending enough current to ground that the lamp isn't getting enough to turn on.
The other possibilities are the box
- is anodised aluminum
- is galvanised steel that is very corroded (might appear whitish)
- has a lacquer or enamel coating to keep it from rusting
*Is it MC (commonly also called BX, or AC)? MC has an aluminum spiral outer casing. The purpose of that is twofold: for protection from animals or nails, and for grounding. When installed correctly with proper clamps, it is connected to a metal box on both ends. One should be grounded by other means; either metal raceway or MC to another grounded box, or by a grounding conductor. That way both boxes, and the MC casing all are grounded.
Or, is it NM, also called Romex™, or some other kind of insulated cable?
I do wrap wire nuts with electrical tape, two or three turns, more for the purpose of weather proofing or if a roof or appliance leak were to make it's way down inside a wall. For this reason, I always position the wire nuts inside the box with the cap facing up so that they could never collect water. Your video demonstration wire nut was also wrapped anti-clockwise which can unscrew the wire nut as the tape shinks. Always wrap the wire nut clockwise, the same way that you tighten it.
Totally agree for the weather protection aspect. I live in Costa Rica right of the ocean and corrosion from Salt air and 95% humidity is a real issue!
The master electrician that taught me how to wire receptacles told me to always do it, Roger was a pretty good dude.
NECA NEIS 130 5.3 Conductors (L) states "DO NOT wrap electrical tape around wiring device terminals. Taping wiring device
terminals will prevent heat dissipation from the wiring device." National Electrical Contractors Association National Electrical Industry Standards
@@inklingsofgod Good to know now granted this was 20 years ago and at the time old Roger had been electrician for probably 40 years
There is no requirement in the NEC or elsewhere that requires any device to be wrapped in tape before installation, but the practice of wrapping devices in tape has been around for a long time. I have been questioned about this practice on many occasions. One justification is that taping devices is necessary because the receptacles/switches will be energized before the finish plates are installed or the tape allows for the removal or replacement of the device while energized. Devices should not be energized before the device cover plates are installed. To do so with standard type screw-terminal devices means there are exposed energized parts creating multiple problems.
The NEC requires cover plates to be installed on completed installations; see sections 110.3(B) and 314.25.
However, the practice of energizing receptacles and switches before the application of cover plates is quite common in construction as a job nears completion. As the temporary power is removed, it is typical to energize newly installed branch circuits for temporary power. In many cases, the permanent cover plates are not yet installed due to wall finishes, such as paint or wallpaper, that are incomplete. Energizing these receptacles is a violation of the NEC as well as Occupational Safety and Health Administration standards. See 29 CFR 1926.416.
Where there is a need to energize permanent branch circuits for temporary power, temporary plastic cover plates should be applied to comply with the NEC and to ensure there are no exposed energized parts. The practice of removing or installing devices while energized would only be recognized as “justified energized work” where de-energizing the circuit would create “additional hazards or increased risk.” See NFPA 70E 130.2(A)(1). Removal while energized would require application of all the safe work practices rules in Chapter 1 of NFPA 70E.
Roger From metro electric.
@@censoredsnake he was QA I had at Wachter back in my data cabling days
Great advice about not stretching the end when wrapping the outlet. All the outlets I've seen that were wrapped, have been stretched to tear off causing it to do adzactly what you said would happen. Started to unravel over time.
Thanks for the feedback George 👍
I always wrap Electrical outlets in a metal box . Sometimes in a plastic box if it’s a tight fit .
When playing the game Operation, I tape the tweezers.
That's cheating!
My kids just take out the batteries
Big brain tactics.
😂😂😂😂
Safety First!
Anywhere a layman might tinker with a switch or outlet and touch a bare screw sometime later, I wrap it up. This way, nobody's going to get hurt later because of what I chose not to do today.
@@mrobvious5892 *Should*, but didn't, and he doesn't know how much pain I saved him.
S
If a laymen is working on their outlets live then maybe a 120 volt wack is what they deserve.
generally yes, I have been advised that in wet/damp locations(especially docks /marinas) that the tape may allow condensation to collect and not dry out causing corrosion, additionally wirenuts should be installed "pointing up" so that condensation/moisture will not collect in them.
As I commented earlier, I use butyl rubber to "stuff"wire nuts in areas where they might be exposed to moisture. It pushes in easily and a couple of tape wraps secure it forever.
Dane, while I am not a professional, I have always pointed the wire nuts up when I've wired up outside lights where moisture could collect and find its way into the copper connections leadign to corrosion. A lot of this is common sense; however, that is in short order these days.
@@justm1ke Solder and shrink wrap
Learned to wrap them on This Old House 35 years ago. Always have.
I always do. Especially a good idea with metal boxes. Not a code requirement, just a personal preference.
The vote doesn't matter, it only takes 30 seconds to wrap, ... the metal box isn't an issue as much as the ground wire possibly contacting a terminal after pushing the outlet into the box.
It's common knowledge to just check if the ground wire is touching any of the terminals when putting on the Faceplate
I been wireing for 20 years and never wrapped the outlet. Its a waste of tape, no need to do it, unless your ocd.
OCD it is.
It’s not a code requirement for a reason. If it was necessary it would be a code. It is a completely useless practice.
This was informative and helpful. Thanks for putting it together. I'm with you, only taping when worried about the possibility of short.
I use tape on wire nuts only when the they are subject to a lot of vibration. Such as motors. The pull test should always be done before the tape is applied.
Makes sense to me, thanks for the feedback and wire nut example 👍
I was coming to say the same thing. 25 years in Heavy Industry Electrical, we used only Stranded Wire. Though they could be twisted, most often they were just stripped, held tightly together, wire nut applied, each wire tug tested, then taped in a manner that would tighten the wire nut initially. The tape was only to prevent the wire nut backing off on high vibration.
In that case why not use a crimp connector instead...
Use a real marette connector. They are the vibration resistant wire nuts that utilize an internal sleeve and set screw, specifically for this.
I also occasionally wrap wire nuts...I test the connection and wrap, starting on the nut and then the wires in the direction so that if the tape were to shrink, it would only tighten the connector more.
I work at a hardware store with a retired Master Electrician and I asked him about this topic recently. His opinion was that the only reasons to use electrical tape on a wire nut were if you were not sure that it was secure, or that there was exposed copper outside of the wire nut. In either case, you need to reapply the wire nut correctly. When he sees tape on a wire nut, it makes him nervous because it tells him the last person to work on it was not confident in their own ability to do a good job.
Same goes for outlets. If your outlets are installed such that it's possible to short circuit the hot terminals, then you need to rewire it, possibly trimming excess neutral or ground wires. There's no reason they should be close enough to contact the hot terminal.
What he told me boils down to this: applying the electrical tape is useless when the work has been done right, and if you are OK with using a stopgap measure to cover an easily fixable mistake, you should not be working on electrical systems.
Wirenuts (tradename) have springs that are tapered and grab, primarily, at the top. Half twist and many come right off. Tape these to prevent easy fall off if vibrstion is a concern. Other spring connectors (trsdensme wingnut or scotchloks) have springs shaped more like an hour glass and grab further down the twisted conductors, vs the tip. . Hence several twists required to remove them. I tape wirenuts and find no need to tape wingnuts if wire insulation sticks into the connector's skirt as they should (no exposed copper.) If copper shows out the bottom of ANY connector then it was installed incorrectly!
@WAYNE Picnot Yes, 12 gauge wire will support a 20 amp circuit according to the National Electrical Code. Make sure that your circuit breaker is 20 amps, or else a 20A outlet won't do you any good.
@WAYNE Picnot Good stuff. If you work inside the breaker panel, make sure you stay clear of the main lugs (google what they are if you don't know). They will be live whether or not the main breaker is off.
If I have to use the butt end of a screwdriver to pack everything into a box I'll tape it all up good first. Because once I get it all jammed in there I do not want to have to take it apart again.
I've been told electrical tape is good for anything that vibrates. Such as a fan or a washing machine. Just for a little added protection from the vibration causing it to come loose..........
Good point on using quality tape! I have seen many cases where when pulling a receptacle after a number of years reveals a band of shrunken hard tape around the wires that used to be around the receptacle.
scotch 33.
5 years electrical in commercial and residential here. In my experience I’ve only taped plugs/switches/GFI’s that will be inserted into metal cut-in boxes since they’re more narrow in width than your standard rough in plaster rings on 4” square boxes. Never taped on residential. I’ve also never had to tape around wire nuts at a tap either.
When I was a carpenter doing renovations, we taped every outlet and switch we replaced or opened. Same with the wire nuts.
I still amazed that the manufacturers of receptacle have not over the course of time improved the situation by providing shrouded insulated connections. Keep up the good advice and stay safe.
I work commercial/residential and I absolutely never tape outlets. Gotta keep the service guy busy with easy calls, I like him. (Please note sarcasm, I use my discretion on a box-by-box basis)
Such a cool channel. I'm glad I stumbled upon it. Keep up the good work, my man.
I always taped wirenuts in busy boxes where connections were going to move against each other when everything got pushed back in. Also always taped them on ceiling fans which would vibrate. If there was tons of room in the box I was confident the connections wouldn't be rolled against each other I probably wouldn't tape.
Depends on where you live some building inspectors say no more fuel for a fire even if they just melt. Why fuel the fire!
I was born into a family of electricians/electrical inspectors, and was taught to always use pigtails, tighten all unused screws all the way in, then tape both the wirenuts and around the receptacles and the switches. Also, to doggy-ear the end of the tape for easy removal if needed.
we call the doggie ears a gentleman's collar and it shows consideration for the next guy.
I follow those same practices also. I always forget to leave a tail on the tape, then fight with it when it needs to be removed!
@@rabelingoodstanding2628 I always called the extra fold of tape a "tape flap" I like "gentleman's collar" better, sounds much more sophisticated!
Didnt do the ear before, will now.
You forgot on outside devices always have the marrets pointing up...
Additional tip, the tape glue doesn't stick to the face as well as the glue to glue does, so for a longer holder if you make a piece slight larger than the circumference join the two ends glue to glue with some overlap then use the overlap to stick it down it will hold amazingly well and look good. Learned hat on a site wrapping 600V cabling.
I worked with an electrician years ago and what he told me is to pre-twist and trim the wires with the lineman's pliers before twisting on the wire nut and it was code to use electrical tape to keep the nut on, but you need to wrap it between the legs, not just around and around. He never mentioned wrapping fixtures with tape and we didn't do it.
It is not code to wrap wires or wire nuts with tape.
I don't remember why, but I twist the wires together thoroughly, trim any unevenness, then apply the marrette. Only limit on twisting is to be sure not to fatigue the copper or reduce the effective gauge of wire. It's been a long time since I did this stuff. If there was *any* exposed wire at the bottom of the marrette, I would trim the wires and re-apply. Electrical tape shouldn't be necessary and messes up inspection... but other than that, no harm.
Same. I make the wire connection just like this and they would pass the pull test without a wire nut at all. I was also taught that if taping the nut seems necessary, to wrap it “clockwise” so that the tension from the stretched tape wants to make the nut tighter. If you wrap it backwards it could actually loosen the nut.
I'm a retired general contractor. My electrical subcontractor once described electrical tape on wire nuts as "Guilt." He taped receps and switches to protect the bare terminals while the cover plates were off during drywall finishing and painting.
Not a pro but I did it in part for this as well. Needed some live outlets while drywalling and finishing and detest people who finish and paint with outlets in (not that it can be seen with an outlet cover, I just know it was done..). Pigtail connection to Wago connectors with the terminals wrapped makes this a easy and safer way for me to work and be able to remove and put back in the outlet quickly.
I only wrap the outlets and switches if the housing box is metal (or another conductive material)
I learned to do that back in 1970 when I worked for the Orange County Fl Schools summer apprentice program as an Electrician Apprentice. The Journeyman I was assigned to showed me how to do a lot about electrical work.
NECA NEIS 130 5.3 Conductors (L) states "DO NOT wrap electrical tape around wiring device terminals. Taping wiring device
terminals will prevent heat dissipation from the wiring device." National Electrical Contractors Association National Electrical Industry Standards
I wrap mine in fruit by the foot. It works fairly well as an insulator and it's tasty.
Nooooo, should be a sin wasting fruit by the foot like that 😂
Is that UL approved?
100% of mice approve this method.
🤣🤣🤣 ALV
Wow..
When I use electrical tape I normally do two separate wraps, my thinking is that one needs to unravel completely before the other one can begin to unravel.
I really like the way the wires are attached to the terminals on that outlet. Never seen that before, it's usually one where you have to wrap around the screw.
as someone who's been shocked by the screws before, I say yes. I know double checking power is off is on me, but we all make mistakes, especially when boxes are poorly labeled
Also, in this world of once trusted manufacturers slapping their name on junk, I applaud 3M for sticking to their guns and only manufacturing/branding things that actually work. Their adhesives are stuff of legend.
Don’t tell the veterans with hearing loss that
1. That old gooey cloth electrical tape we used, before vinyl, was usually called "friction tape." I remember it from back in the 50's. Still sold. Generally it hardened like a rock. I have had to remove it and was not easy.
2. I also wrap switches.
3. I do not wrap wire nuts but have migrated to Wago Wall-Nuts.
Wago completely obsoleted wire nuts. The 221 series lever nuts are also super useful when you have a ton of wires you need to reconfigure frequently. They're nice because it is easy to reconfigure wiring, then when you get it right you just leave them because they handle vibration fine. Also nice because they make it easy to add terminating resistors to data wiring.
@@tombax1653 contractors and electricians are cheap, wire nuts are still cheaper lol
That friction tape is a godsend with using splitbolts and than 33+ after
We used to buy friction tape all the time. It was great on the blades of our hockey sticks, and to build up the butt end. But, always finish the butt end with hockey tape, otherwise the friction tape will destroy the palm of your glove. Oh, for electric devices? Don't use tape. I make mechanical connections, and ensure they are secure.
Did this recently - super thankful you showed this to the world.
there is a brand out there that has built in snap covers for the screws (saw them on a demo). There are now these rubber bands that fit around the receptacle now as well.
Scotch 33+, definitely. Cold weather performance, stretches without breaking. We used High Voltage Tapes where appropriate, 1000V per 1/2 overlap. So you wrap to the voltage and quality of the job, then some. But Scotch 33+ is good for 600V, no matter how much you overlap. 600v Max. The loose end when applying tape as you demonstrated prevents "flagging", according to the vendor, that tendency for the tape to start to pull off, doing as you demonstrated should prevent that. Do Electrical Inspectors support taping, I read they didn't since they can't visually inspect?
I’ve seen electricians use the push-in terminals on outlets and leave the screws backed out.... Every trade has there good guys and hacks. I use premium outlets, wrap them with tape and push the ground away from the outlet as a final precaution.
Scary at best!
There are Electricians and there are "electricians".
Where I see that is in condos, manufactured houses, any mass produced housing, where the "electrician " is working for speed, not quality or safety.
I never stab outlets or switches in the back. Imo it's just good practice to use the screw terminals because then you know for sure it's secure. Plus easier to remove later.
Those are piece rate installers. Those are not Electricians. They couldn't fix a sandwich.
Great info, thanks. I’ll adjust my future actions.
Keep in mind that in many areas of the home, replacing a 2 prong outlet now requires AFCI and GFCI protection to meet code, and those outlets run about $26 a pop.
I refuse to do that. If someone wants them replaced they either get another two wire or it gets rewired. I don’t believe there is a substitute for a proper ground especially when you’re relying on electronics.
I do whatever my little heart desires. Generally though I do wrap my outlets and switches, just because that is the way I have done them for years. As to the wire nuts... I hate seeing electrical tape on them. It does nothing but make troubleshooting more of a pain in the rear. Side note: I was trained with the thinking that the wire nuts are not to make the connection but to protect the connection. Twist your wires together, test to see if there is anything loose, trim if necessary, then put on the wire nut.
Spot on. Nothing worse than trying to troubleshoot a live multi branch with tape on the neutral. Very risky
Always make a good mechanical connection first, then wire nut or solder and shrink wrap as needed
100 Percent agree !! A little extra time will save a future call back .
I like your thoughts on this. The electrical guru I used to work with that helped me with a connector design told me metal contacts only work if the pressure holding them together exceeds atmospheric pressure. The idea being oxygen won't get into the contact area if the surfaces are pressed together with higher than 32 psi. So I like the idea of twisting first, but I believe the purpose of the wire nut is to compress the wires together and hold them under pressure to assure a good oxygen free contact over time. Pull off a 30 year old wire nut and untwist the wires. If it was done properly the contacting surfaces will be shiny while the other surfaces are oxidized. Without a wire nut, a wire wrapped very tightly around the bunch could maintain the pressure is applied correctly. There's the two cents you didn't ask for. Ha
@@NackDSP I never had any problems with oxidation especially when both wires are copper . The only time I’ve seen this problem was when one wire is copper the other was aluminum that was years ago when copper prices shot through the roof . I applied Penitrox worked pretty well , but messy !
If devices needed to be wrapped in electrical tape it would be in the NEC code book by now. There is a code for how many wires are aloud for a certain size box. Also workmanship is key! In my opinion, if you have neat work you should never need to wrap tape around your devices. And for gods sake stop using the push in method on devices and if you have an unused terminal screw, THEN SCREW IT IN SO IT DOES’NT STICK OUT!
Good advice, thanks Joel.
True.but for those inclined to do it anyhow, why not use duct tape on the inner surface of the box ?
@@jimcampbell8061 Duct tape is never an appropriate alternative to electrical tape for electrical insulation.
"What makes electrical tape different from other adhesive tapes? - Tape University™" tapeuniversity.com/industry/building-construction/electrical/what-makes-electrical-tape-different-from-other-adhesive-tapes/
@@embracethesuck1041 I get that but since taping is redundant anyhow a layer of duct tape on the inner surface of the metal box will adhere better and does no harm.The question was to keep terminals from touching the sides of the box,which is not a problem but some people are uneasy despite assurances.Taping is for those who feel uncomfortable
@@DevJB Just slather everything with a thick layer of Flex Seal liquid! Then you'll never be able to find the faults, but they WILL be watertight!
Good informational. To add my input, i wrap some wire nuts but i always do the pull test before i ever wrap or finish my installation, that goes with all connections tbh
In New England we used to have Slipknot Gray, came in a metal tin and was the full equal to 3M. Haven't seen it around for a while.
Military electrician of 10 years. I have been shocked more times than shot at. Wrap the receptacles. Its a couple seconds more and can save you from looking silly. Remember that its for your safety, and when it comes to safety im looking out for number 1 (me).
I agree with you. We did that on the submarines
One vet to another, thanks for your service. I wish we'd had one of you guys in Iraq! They gave us a big generator and a pallet of wire and said have fun figuring it out. It's a wonder nobody got killed, but we kept the light on. Now I've been trained, and I look back and just say thanks.
I agree. No shortcuts in safety, but there are others that would argue why their way is ok when it takes only 10 seconds and 10 cents to prevent a possible electrical shock.
"No shortcuts on safety" actually means: Always LOTO power source to receptacle OFF 1st, then allways test for power 1ST with live dead live (LDL) on receptical before touching receptacle for removal/service to protect yourself. If you have work on it live, bad unsafe idea, wear class 1 electrical gloves and use insulated electrical tools only, never bare handed.
@@airgliderz that's fantastic advice, but not many homeowners know that.
Electrical tape is used on wire nuts to prevent them from backing out or loosening due to vibration. Testing for a solid connection must be done before tape is applied. But this has all been eliminated with the use of Wago leaver connectors.
I do like the Wago lever nuts 👍
Wago’s are good, but if that little locking tab gets nudged the wrong way when stuffing the wires back in the box, you’re going to have a problem.
@@huejanus5505 that's not true there was a video the demonstrated that. It must be more than just nudged it must be pulled up in a vertical position perpendicular to the body. why are you lying about it if you are talkin about the # 221 lever connector the most recent ones. They even join stranded wire with or without solid wire better than wire nuts with less chance of a fire. I have seen wire nuts that were so loose the wires inside were arcing and the wire nuts were blackened. Vibrations loosen wire nuts. I have seen many loose wire nuts that I had to replace and tape because there was a lot of Street vibration around the house and businesses.
@@eugeneshealthproject so you are saying it doesn't work either. How many rolls of tape Have you seen turn into funnels.
@@huejanus5505
If you unlock a wago by stuffing wires you have a different issue at hand.
I like that idea of wrapping for metal boxes. Thanks.
Ty for your videos. I’m 75 n learning about ohms law n this demo is so interesting.
Thanks for watching!
Definitely wrap devices in metal boxes and definitely in a multi gang box. I just can't get over a hot terminal for one device being so near to a ground terminal of an adjacent device without insulation.
@@Joe-by8jh when you plug things in and out the outlets could move
@@Joe-by8jh Damn, I knew those screws went somewhere!
My thoughts exactly 🙌🏻
According to my electrician, he prefers to tape them. However it is against electrical code here and would fail inspection here if you got a persnickity inspector.
You are not violating Electrical codes by taping your outlets !! That must be the towns Electrical inspectors own rule . The town can over ride The NEC . In my view it only makes working on the receptacle that much safer when working on it live.
there is no code in the NEC saying you can't tape them. I personally only tape outlets that are close together or in a metal box. in a plastic box it makes no difference
@@williameisenberg1999 there are a lot of places outside the US that use codes other than the NEC. The original commentor might be from somewhere that forbids wrapping in their national code.
Maybe the inspector wants to see a proper shepherd's hook, and if it's taped up he can't see it.
@@JeremyHansen there's a lot of towns and municipals that tweak the codes to their own liking as well. I had one inspector fail a house because the conduit was cut with a tubing cutter (properly). In the end it all comes down to the person signing the green tag or hopefully not the red one.
That's the way I was taught. As for the wire nuts, I check the integrity of the connection before I put the tape on.
The township where I live does not allow it as I had to remove the tape from a kitchen addition I wired in the late 1970's. I asked the inspector why it was not allowed and he gave me the following reasons. 1 - It is not allowed in the local code. 2 - Makes a visual inspection of the connections impossible. 3 - The adhesive in all tapes will degrade an come loose over time. 4 - The tape itself could become a fire hazard.
Before I end my wrap I like to leave a little tang on the end by folding back about 1/8 inch and stick it to its self. The next guy will thank you!
You plan on reusing that tape?
@@dannychavez2420 No it's just a curtesy tab for the whoever needs to remove the tape later.
How long does it take to unwrap it? Waste of time!
The next gal should add a small scissors to her tool bag to cut the tape off. Faster than unwrapping.
@@dannychavez2420 … it doesn’t take long at all if the last guy left you the tang (or flag) so your not fumbling around looking for the end.
Hey Scott and gang. I knew two Master Ekectricians, who always wrapped both boxes, and wire nut connections. I do as well. And the Super 33 + you mentioned Scott, is what I almost always use, in yellow! 😀 Yes, tape costs money, but what price on safety and peace of mind?
These are great videos and topics Scott! Keep em coming! Stay safe and Healthy! 👍😁🇺🇸
Agreed, that's exactly what I do. Devices and wire nuts get taped and with a quality tape. Pretty much anything 3M. I buy a ton of el cheapo tape for pulling and other throw away tasks but when it comes to anything having to do with insulating, it's 3M all the way.
@@NickFrom1228 Hi Nick, and thanks for reply and great comment. I completely concur with you! Take care and stay safe!
When installing GFCI into old metal box locations, I will often cut the metal box out and put in a new old work plastic box. Takes a little more time but it makes life easier.
Thanks for the feedback!
I used to make 3m crepe backing for masking tape in a papermill and they had far more strict standards we had to meet than others.
when rewiring my garage i used tape on outlets to color code them to the circuit breakers along with wrapping the tape roughly every 18 inches along the wire through the wall so if i opened the wall for something , i would know which wires i was looking at. also left a schematic in the breaker box for the next person. had electrician look it over before powering up and he had to chuckle..stating even a complete idiot could figure out what went where with how "simplistic" every thing was laid out.
This is hilarious, only wrap and use wing nuts if you are from the 1980's. All my remodels are done with WAGO 221 series snap on connectors (2, 3, and 5 port). Safe, UL listed, and highly durable. Works on 10 awg to 26 awg wire, never had a problem, not even with stranded wire.
i pull test the wire nut before i tape ..and i use your idea to tighten the plugs wire connectors on empty space of plug .. great idea thx
Very explanatory video. Thanks
I always wrap electrical tape around my receptacles, no matter the box... It's just good practice, I figured this is something everyone would agree on haha. Main reason is to prevent shorts. Even in a plastic box sometimes you're stuffing wires behind the receptacle and we all know how some grounding wires are bare. It's just to help prevent a short circuit from occurring, no matter if it's a metal box or a plastic one. Also a lot of electricians will open up receptacles and switches while they are still hot, and it's nice to do so having the terminals somewhat protected with the tape, encase you brush up against it on accident or accidently touch it against something conductive. Idk, in my opinion it's always good practice to just tape it every time. It's a no brainer for me, tape every time no matter what. Anyone who disagrees, can't say I really respect it because it literally takes no extra time to do. Just my 2 cents
haha..you say wrapping is good practice but then say " a lot of electricians will open up receptacles and switches while they are hot". Is it not "good practice" to remove power?
@@ricmndy1 It is good practice to remove power. Not all electricians will do this though, many will cut corners. Either that or there will be 5 people doing work on their computers and you're unable to just turn the power off. Yes you can come back later, but most electricians won't bother with that trouble. So when making up a receptacle, it's never good to assume everyone will do everything 100% the right way with proper procedure. Always think ahead and down the road when it comes to electricity, that's truly the best way to go about this trade. Anything cut short of that is just bad practice IMO.
@@ricmndy1 it can be very counterproductive to shut power off when trouble shooting.
@@JeffPenaify who troubleshoots a possible bad recepticle like that? You can trouble shoot a circuit without removing the recepticle from the box. So why would you need to protect the terminals? I've worked in Avionics and Satellite Communications for over 30 years so I know how to troubleshoot live circuits. It's not necessary to remove a recepticle to troubleshoot it with power on.
@@ricmndy1 in residential electrical, it can absolutely be neccessary to troubleshoot circuits by opening the box up and testing wires while live, often when dealing with switch legs, travelers, or joints in the box, usually from hack work. I’ve been on more service calls than I can count where trying to figure out what the idiot before you did with no power means removing a ton of drywall
Tape not required in the case of installing a large body GFCI or USB it can't hurt
Just don't cover the vents on the USB receptacle.
Same here, always in a metal box AND with Super 33 +. I don't normally bother with taping wire nuts, but go case by case. I noticed when he removed the tape, it was wrapped backwards. You should start on the wire nut wrapping in the direction you tighten it. Continue around at least twice and work it down onto the wire 3 times around. Like dad said, if you're going to do it, do it right.
Good video. Very good discussion. Also, thanks for the video chapter marks. It helps when scanning through the video.
Happy to help Mark. Thx!
I do it myself. It can’t hurt as an extra safety measure.
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I do too. Did it just today on a gfci upgrade. I've seen a few guys get nipped removing a receptacle not taped.
I always wrap receptacles inside metal boxes. Master Electrician, CET
Why? Are you bridging the metal box to the receptacle? Because tape does nothing except trap heat near the wires.
Current doesn't magically jump air gaps unless the voltage is sufficient to overcome the resistance of the air. And if you have that much voltage coming in your stuff will probably burn down long before reaching that receptacle.
@@etherealrose2139 Not wrapping the wires, but the terminal screws. It is mainly meant when one has to work on a live circuit. Sometimes it is just not feasible to turn of power.
I suppose you also love everything TR.
I didn't until once when I was pushing in the receptacle into the box the ground wire bent and I didn't notice it so turning on the power resulted in scary pop and tripped the breaker.
Decided it was good practice for my consumer efforts as I'm not being paid to try to do everything as fast as possible.
With regards to the wire nut, agree on the idea of the tape not being used for the connection. I still use it to seal the opening of the applied nut.
What about the receptacles with USB ports built in with the standard plug?
These seem to have some openings along the outside of the housing which is meant for a heat sink or air flow and it doesn't seem intuitive to cover something like that up.
Thanks.
Good point Jeremy, if there is a heat sink that would definitely not be advised to cover with tape.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs You can just cover the terminals only, but definitely not a good idea to cover the vents.
ALWAYS WRAP. nothing to loose. Possibly LIFE to save! (life of someone knowing nothing about elec opening and grabbing outlet, or hot screw touching metal box of an ungrounded home causing hot ground plugs of anything plugged into it.
No no need to wrap. That's your own damn fault for doing that. Bet you learned your lesson.
@@bluejack-ve7so you need to wrap in metal box.
@@gabrielM1111 no you don't. Nothing in the NEC about wrapping a receptacle with tape in a metal box. That's just a personal preference.
@@gabrielM1111 and actually a metal box is more safe than a plastic box. A metal box is grounded so if a hot wire comes in contact with it, it trips the breaker. With a plastic box it just melts it away. No return path to ground.
We always did a tug test on each wire in a wire nut, prior to applying electrical tape and then wrapped the tape in same direction that tightened the wire nut.
Gfci outlets are for receptacles near or prone to moisture(kitchen/bathroom backsplash ect, and any exterior). Never hurts to wrap in tape but not always necessary. But like you said, dont stretch the tape because the elasticity will want it to return to normal and will peel away(cause and effect).
"Do the pull test, and it's the tape holding it together... Disengenuous. Probably not intentionally. Who does the pull test after the tape? I do not move on after applying a wirenut, until I have done the pull test several ways, and am sure the wires are both well engaged and tight. THEN I tape.
Recommended doing on outlets installed on metal boxes
ditto
But not needed
@@timfritz3828 Right, it's not needed, but code is MINIMUM. If you install you work to just meet code requirements, you are a hack and your job will look like shit.
@@timfritz3828 It's not a code requirement. It's just good workmanship.
@@jimmac1185 do you use the 1968 nec? And in 1972 minimum standards is removed. And if code is minimum why are their maximums in the nec?
Great info. I am very cautious dealing with electrical boxes and often I'll call a pro. But, this is very good to know info as a homeowner pro-supervisor. After all it is my home and my money.
Before there was Scotch 33+ there was just Scotch 33. Before that there was vinyl electrical tape of various brands and qualities, and some of it was horrible - it was brittle off the roll would dry out and fall apart quickly. Before that, black friction tape was commonly used to insulate splices.
There used to be a section in the NEC regarding proper taping of wire nuts which required the wrap to go around the crotch between the wires and the wire nut, covering the open bottom of the wire nut and providing additional mechanical strength to the splice.
Really well done.
I always wrap receptacles. Period.
As long as we have bare copper wires in our boxes, it is mandatory and I demand it from all our electricians, just as I forbid backstabbing under any circumstances, ever.
I stopped using wirenuts way back when - WAGOs work better, period.
Wagos are similar to back stabbing...the only time I wrap in tape is in multiple gang boxes
Nice! Thanks for the feedback Ethan and WAGO 221 lever nuts are growing on me. I have WAGO 2773 on order to see if these newer more compact push pins are worth using going forward. The problem is I think they are back ordered until Aug 2021.
Wrap in a metal box yes. Wire nuts no (you will have sticky black hands after you waste time undoing them. Ideal, 3m, Wago are good quality, could have used a yellow Ideal winged nut for 3 number 12's. I could not see if you bootlegged the GFI but maybe a GFI breaker would be appropriate. There are always opinions on what constitutes best practices vs min code. Agree to never daisy chain through the outlet, better to be a branch on the tree and it won't heat up the outlet or leave the downstream ones without power. Just my 2 cents.
Interesting poll. My dad taught me about electrical wiring and he never used tape on the outlet. He taped the inside of a metal box, but never taped using a plastic box. I've never heard of wrapping the outlet, and I can't begin to imagine the frustration the next person will have to deal with after years of temperature changes turns the glue into a sticky mush.
He definitely stressed the importance of proper wing nut wiring. He never taped the cap to the wire, but he did tape the wires right below the cap (to strengthen them from separating) and then again a few inches down. I've been using this technique to this day regardless what I wire. Gravity and time do some impressive things to wires we take for granted.
Another thing he taught me to do was to twist a ring on the hot wire, then use it to hang the line from the grounds.
I never could understand why he did this until I studied electrical engineering. I suppose the technique of hanging was borne of a time when insulation wasn't great and electromagnetic feedback had an impact on electronics.
We're a very foolish country for giving up trade schools and apprenticeships. Just a personal opinion.
Case study; It wasn’t until I experienced a major short in a HVAC 60amp utility feed connection that I started taping wire nuts. A 60 cycle frequency pulse over time has the potential to cause a wire nut internal tension to gap causing arching even in a properly installed wire nut. This case, the arching heat over time burned through the wire nut which was touching the metal access cover panel of a home owner A/C air handler unit. The direct short caused intermittent sparking to shoot across the owners garage and burned a 2 inch hole in the panel cover. The breaker eventually tripped. I now tape all wire nuts in a clockwise rotation as to maintain the wire nut in tension. Lesson learned; It is good PM to periodically inspect all high amp wire nut connections for integrity and any sign of over heating.
I (a DIY-er) was recently about to stuff an outlet into a plastic box. I had a few junctions also in the box, and consequently a fair amount of uninsulated ground wires going hither and thither. I figured one of those ground wires coming into contact with one of the screws of the outlet would be a Bad Thing, so I taped up the outlet.
I wrap outlets, wire nuts (always twist wires with pliers first), and a 2" area around the romex when it's going under a metal knockout connector... or anytime I want some extra jacket protection. Codes are *minimum* standards... you can do extra if you wish...
Great comment on code being a minimum. Thank you Motzart
GFCI without a ground .. So would it be dangerous to use grounded plug devices in this outlet?
The gfci will trip and cut off the current to the device and hopefully before any damage is done. It is the solution unless a pain in the butt rewiring job is in the plan.
Yep, actually doing another video on swapping 2-prong outlets where you don't have the ground to a GFCI. This is approved by NEC but you do need to label "No Equipment Ground" on the face plate.
No, this is how you are supposed to add in grounded devices to 2-wire homes. GFCI is detecting a delta between hot and neutral and after you cross a threshold it trips and kills the hot lead.
My house had 2 prong with metal boxes. The boxes were grounded but not to the outlets.
If the plug is supply power downstream I would recommend wiring it in a way the downstream outlets are not GFI protected unless its clear where those downstream outlets are and they are properly marked. Many times ive had to help home owners find the GFI that tripped causing their plug to not work.
Very interesting Love the content!!
I did some remodeling with a retired electrical engineer. He wrapped outlets and switches with plastic tape which led me to do the same ever since. Before I pull an existing outlet, I make sure the power is off, but I am still careful about how I handle the piece whether it is wrapped or not.
Same.
My father in law was an electrician and he always wrapped them.
Wrapping electrical tape around the wire nut is a great idea..... it keeps the electrons from leaking out. ;)
Finally !! Someone who knows their shit
Electrons are angry pixies....they'll get into everything!
But it will hold the smoke in, so how will you know if you have a problem if you cant see the smoke?
LOL!
Reminded me of a customer who wrapped the electrical conduits to her pool timer box before a freeze (the pool plumbing lines were left exposed.) Her electrons did not freeze!
I'm not an electrician by trade and I've always done this by default. It just seemed like a good practice; I didn't realize it was something that was hotly debated.
Thanks for your information and videos 📹, I appreciate you 🙏
I do it because that's how I was taught, and have you ever installed an outlet without tape in a metal box while the electric was still live.. I have they call me sparky now 😏
Years ago a guy was having a quarrel with his wife. He beat on the wall and sparks flew. A wire broke loose from light switch.
Well, at least there was still some spark left in the marriage.
😂
So on the one hand it could keep a loose wire from freeing, on the other hand it can keep a loose wire from freeing and you not realizing a wire is loose.
When I was in the Rock 'n' Roll business,and made my own stage power boxes, I'd solder the ends of the stranded wire, and cover the exposed stranded wire with electrical tape. This was just in case I left a stray strand out, and to help damp the vibrations onstage and in the trucks. For solid wire in a stationary location, not so much.
👍,
For 40 years I have taped outlets and it passes code in Canada On any vibration like motors in Industry a couple of wraps of electrical tape over wire nut followed by wraps of electrical rubber tape and then final wrap of electrical ,the first wrap of electrical is so you don't fight getting the rubber tape off . This also for screw type lugs which are preferred over wire nuts
One problem I have found twice when an GFCI was wrapped with electrical tape:
Both instances were single gang metal box. The GFCI was wrapped and stuffed in the box, but the installer installed it slightly off center. The electrical tape kept the hot screw from immediately shorting against the box, but over time vibration of outlet use (guessing) eventually wore tape down and circuit breaker popped.
On one of them, the breaker must have popped many times, considering how burnt the screw was.
If the installer wouldn't have used tape, it would have been immediately noticed that the outlet was offset against the box. It might have been the outlet didn't originally have tape, but did after it popped the breaker after initial power was applied.
Anyway, I believe the tape is just hiding a potential issue.
So you’re saying don’t wear a hardhat on the worksite so if there is an unsafe condition and a brick falls on my head, I’ll immediately know it was a brick and then I can correct the situation?
@@mook528 hahahahahaha, amen brother. I couldn’t have said it better myself. You beat me to it.
One suggestion for you is to stop using the word “popped” and start using the word “tripped”.
After getting shocked so many times I have decided to wrap them. Now I don’t get zapped anymore!
I bet if you look you'll find that most places that are wired for electricity have these boxes full of things called breakers. Some of the older ones have fuses in them. It was a life-changing experience when I discovered that you could remove a fuse or switch a breaker to the off position and avoid getting a shock.
i have an industrial plant. almost never do we tape around an outlet unless it's tight and 460v.we only use stranded wire. with stranded never twist the wires together before putting on the wire nut. it won't grab properly. instead hold them parrallel and use the wire nut to twist them together until you see the wires twisting beyond the nut.test each lead for pullout. we never put tape on nuts. use the 3m wingnuts with the rubber skirts.
with solid wires you can twist them together first.
I've wrapped receptacles with tape when using metal boxes. And when mounting multiple receptacle in tight areas. A few of the old timers and journeyman that I've worked with would in some cases wrap electrical tape around the receptacles. We've used electrical tape on wire nuts in some areas that maybe subject to moisture from condensation but the tape is put on only after checking the connection for a tight secure fitting by pre twisting the wire ends before putting on a wire nuts. 😎
There shouldn’t be any need to, electrical tape doesn’t last and just makes a mess....
Mark I have seen a lot of old wire nuts that have loosened with age do to either poor installation or just too much traffic vibrations loosening the wirenut electrical tape just happens to prevent the wirenut from backing out from imperfect connections and stranded wire with solid wire are the worst offenders for failure that's why I like Wago number # 221 lever wire connector. Which never needs electrical tape. It provides the perfect pressure every single time when you snap it into position. So I disagree with you electrical tape is your first line of defense against an improper or aging wire nut that is ready to fail. I have always used electrical tape since the late 60s and never had a single failure. Wire nuts must never be reused but Wagos can be reused.
@@eugeneshealthproject Yes agreed, 35 years in the field Ive seen that too. But to many people use really cheap materials including cheap tape....
Mark Stevens, I have seen that similar situation before. When I was working with my old boss many years ago, my bosses client complained about his electrical bill at his house, Sierra Madre, Calif., costing him to pay his Edison electric bill of $600 a month. What it turn out to be was the electrical tape what is the cause of it of the homeowners problem. It was the adhesive of the tape was semiconductive, not enough to short out a circuit but enough to conduct a current load. When we unravel the tape off on every receptacles and the last I’ve heard from the homeowner, he was paying a bill of $150 of his electrical bill that we solve his problem for him.
I’ve had to go on service calls because of receptacles shorting out on the sides of metal boxes. So yes, don’t put tape on receptacles going into metal boxes because i make a lot of money fixing them.
Well crap everyone's has a point. Tape for metal boxes . Don't stretch the tape on plugs and switches .
Butt The screws are ressed
on the GFCI NO TAPE 🤑
Bad workmanship cheep materials. Had so many
splices fall apart tape or no tape
Over past 30 years of working in electrical field, I have seen many cases of loose splices and even wire nuts that fall off while moving splices. Splices of solid conductor should made before wire nut is installed to confirm wires are wrapped properly around each other with no crossing of wires and no spaces between wires. Taping is always recommended over wire nut to ensure it does not loosen while splices are moved about. Also some brands of wire nuts are notorious for not " grapping" well. (ie, Marrette brand #33 and #31). Your video implies that the tape is holding the wire nut on a very bad splice. The splice should be strong, independent of tape. The tape is there to prevent wire nut from loosesning while packing and unpacking wires in boxes, fixtures, etc. Since the wire nut is the insulator of splce, you do not need the expensive tape for providing reinforcement of splice. Also tape a around a receptacle in plastic or metal box can prevent a bare bond conductor from contacting any "hot" terminals
Excellent comment Ray Thanks! 👍
This is why I refuse to let Barry Bonds work on my electric.
@@Joe-by8jh yes I do no more than the engineers, I routinely have to troubleshoot and fix there shitty products, you never use the wire nut to twist your wires together, you twist wires together with your side cutters, and then apply wire nut, after putting wire nut on, you then pull on wire nut and wires to ensure good connection, you never wrap splices with tape, unless your splicing wires in a pecker head in a motor, you then use rubber tape and 33 so that the kerney doesn’t short from vibration of the motor.
To many people on here with no experience giving opinions on things they know nothing about.
Unless you have sold the product, installed the product, warranted the product, you don’t have enough knowledge to comment.
Doing those things make you an expert, not designing a product that doesn’t work, IE the engineers who you speak so highly of
If you require tape over wire nuts to "ensure it doesn't loosen", you're doing your wire nuts wrong. Maybe you should switch completely to Wagos or a different profession so you don't burn down a house...
Only in metal boxes, also when I wrap I put the adhesive facing up on the first wrap and then turn the tape to put the adhesive facing down on the second. That way if the tape is ever removed it does not leave a residue on anything it was touching. Also when you're ready to break the tape instead of cutting it you pull and snap and let the tension from the stretched piece shrink back to its normal size then you press it it only takes a couple seconds.
For single gang metal boxes, I use an extender insert instead. More expensive, but less hassle and less mess if I ever need to remove the tape. Also less chance of failure.
Now I'm desperately trying to remember where all the wire nuts I taped are. 😳