Which Wire Connectors Should You Use?
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- čas přidán 14. 06. 2024
- WAGO 221 Assortment Kit: amzn.to/3qc0lQd
With the DIYer in mind, I will provide my recommendation for wire connectors for your electrical projects around the house. We will cover the construction of each and how to effectively use them on a common install like a ceiling light (solid and braided wires). Additionally, we will discuss the cost of each and the survey results from over 8000 viewers on what they use most commonly.
Connectors Included in Video
Good
Ideal Wire Nut Assortment Pack: homedepot.sjv.io/mgRAxO
Better
Ideal Push In Assortment Pack: amzn.to/3e7QLeT
Best
WAGO 221 (2 Wire): amzn.to/3sF20zw
WAGO 221 Kit: amzn.to/3qc0lQd
Chapter
0:00 Intro
1:07 Design and Use: Wire Nuts
4:48 Design and Use: Push In
8:13 Design and Use: WAGO 221
10:13 Cost for Each
12:02 Viewer Survey Results
13:22 Recap and Closing Comments
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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. - Jak na to + styl
I grew up with the plain, no-wing wire nuts, but I'm sold on the wago lever nuts. Your demo on stranded/solid wire behavior was superb. I'm a DIY guy, but also a graduate EE.
The Wagos or push ins have a great advantage when hanging fixtures. The stranded wire from the fixture can be pushed in "on the bench". Then on the ladder you only have to push in the solid wire- very easy!
OK, you just sold me. Having a bad back and standing on a ladder, looking up, AND holding something above my head is a act of self-punishment. Being able to shorten my time in that straining position (I can't even breath normally!) is a blessing I will some extra coins for.
I used wire nuts for 50 years but I'm really sold on the Wago Lever connectors. A big advantage especially when connecting 3 or more #12 wires is that the Wago takes up less space and the wire without the twist is a lot more flexible making it much easier to fit into junction boxes. The Wago Lever is a lot easier to connect additional wire, simply pop levers and install new connector with an additional port while wire nuts usually require cutting the bent up ends off and restriping and twisting.
Makes a lot of sense!!
I noticed that these levers are not designed for repetitive open/close operation. Unless Amazon is selling fakes.
@@myc0p I only have experience with the real thing (221 and 222), and the levers will at least handle dozens of movements !
@@MyTubeSVp I was test flipping 221 and noticed a deterioration on levers (becoming soft and one stopped working) after 50th use. Didn't see similar behavior on PCT-213.
@@myc0p it is very possible that Amazon is selling fakes. Counterfeit products are a big problem with Amazon right now.
DIYer here, I just bought some push-ins for a ceiling fan project in my garage. They will save some effort doing the final connections while working up in the attic balanced between ceiling joists!
Wago 221 is awesome. I like that they can handle wires of from 24 to 12 gauge, and that they are easy to both install and remove. For a DYI homeowner it just makes projects easier. *I also use them for hobby applications* because they are easier than soldering.
I've been using wire nuts for almost 50 years as a DIY electrician. I converted to Wago 221s recently and I love them. I used all 221s to install new shop lights in my basement including a wall switch and outlet and I feel like it saved me a lot of time. Particularly when I realized I'd mis-wired the switch connection to the lights. I was able to pull the 221s out easily and fix the problem. This is a lot harder/messier when using wire nuts. (nb I learned my DIY electrical wiring up nuclear reactor control systems in my teens. Try meeting NRC code...)
I had the option to use the push in connecters today, when I had to replace a failed light switch. I used the connecters to add on a couple of 6" pig tail wires, on a very short set of wires coming into the electrical box, which were connected to the old failed switch, with the classic wrap around hook to the terminals. What a difference that made, the push in connecters, were so user friendly, and helped me out greatly. I also upgraded to a commercial switch, with the lock down terminal plates, and had greatly helped with installation of my new added pig tail wires. Thank you so much, for sharing this video!
As a DIY, I found, I use the Wago221 on almost every replacement project. That is to say, replacing existing fixtures, outlets, or switches. I have an older home, and many of the electrical boxes are metal and are tight with up to two lines entering the box. Especially the switched lights and outlets. The Wago 221 is the best for tight spaces where typical wire nuts are way too bulky. I use wire nuts in new construction since many of the new electrical boxes are plastic and have more space in the box-all personal preference.
The first time I saw a Wago connector and tested it, i was sold particulary since it has all the right agency approvals too and used for decades in Europe. As a homeowner, my repair needs are spotty, and this provided rapid to do, and undo, quality connections, UL approved and next to no training required. The real challenge I find is to insure its not counterfeit, when buying it from say, Amazon over DigiKey, authorized distributors matter here and the difference per item is only in the 10-30c a piece.
Just last week saw the suggestion for the wago 221, and ordered some immediately. I've got a recepticle box that I updated the switches in, so it then had 5 neutrals, and originally I had to split it into 3+(2+1) because the wirenuts could at most handle 4. It was basically impossible to stuff everything back inside. The wallplate was visibly floating off the wall where the wires bunched up and the switch bottomed out.
Those wago made everything so much better, cleaner wire runs, low profile, room for 5, and it was actually possible to press it into the back of the box, by moving 5 - 14AWG wires, instead of trying to manipulate what was basically a (1/0) AWG.
Sure its more expensive, but this should be in every DIY's toolbox anyway, ESPECIALLY if they plan to swap out those old toggle switches with something newer like a paddle, dimmer, timer, etc that take up more space in the box.
It's also worth noting that there's a maximum number of wires rated to be used inside of an electrical box due to potential heat/fire hazard. So although organizing the wires may allow you to fit everything inside the box, it may be a wiser idea to replace the box with a larger box.
@@jtrthehax Thats true but red and blue wire nuts are massive compared to some of those small rinky dink boxes people install.
@@jtrthehax - If you're a DIYer like me, this is a terrible idea within a home wall. The idea of taking apart any drywall (or worse, plaster or paneling) to replace a box simply multiplies the work time by a *lot*. How much spackling, sanding, spackle finishing/painting is required after you make the hole big enough to do all this? As a DIYer, I don't know how to put in a new box without radically expanding the hole, and I bet most others don't as well.
I am a DIY. I started with wire nuts 30 years ago. Used those for 20 years. They work and reuse them when redoing existing electrical with the wire nuts already in the box. Discovered push in about 12 years ago. Love them and use them for all new wiring projects. And sometimes for modifying existing connections too. Never used WAGO due to the very high cost. WAGO are just reusable push in connectors. Usually I only wire things once and do it right the first time so no need for reusable push in WAGO connectors.
Got a multi-pack of WAGO 221 when installing some lights. They were by far the easiest way to join the high-gauge (18 maybe) stranded wire to solid copper.
Wago connectors are awesome. I even keep a handful in the "junk" drawer in my RV with the fuses for making quick electrical repairs/changes when out camping. The connectors pictured are the new design of the wago. the old ones were great too but the new ones are so much easier to use and about half the size.
We stopped using wirenuts at least 15 years ago in Norway. Wago or other trusted brands are the only thing we use these days.
That’s basically the case with every country other than the US. It’s like paying with checks, no one other than Americans uses them since the 80s lol 😂
would you mind telling us the other trusted brands please?
@@natevirtual hellermanntyton is a brand we have been using without any problems.
@@Faddnn thank you so much!
@@vwlukas the reason why is because people are allowed to sell or buy what they prefer. You can't ban the use of wire nuts if they still work fine as an alternative.
EXACTLY!
Maintenance/electrician for 15 years+ in America.
An electrician in Europe now. Almost nobody here has heard if wire nuts.
My initial prejudice was that wire nuts were superior, BUT the Wago 221 is preferable.
I rewired a big chunk of my home over the summer before we moved in, I wish I had known about the wagos then, I’ve been upgrading to smart light switches and have been using them for that and they are so much easier to work with, will be using them exclusively for my garage reno that I’m doing in the Spring
The thing that has held me back from using the push ins more is I hadn't been certain they were acceptable by code. This answered that question. That said, as a DYI'r I'll definitely opt for a Wago since I do so much less work than a pro that the higher price isn't that much of a bite.
Wago connectors are big space savers inside the first box of a series/chain of receptacles.
And, very secure when pushing in all those extra wires.
You sir by far have given the best description of wire connections. I’m still getting a license electrician for my final inspection. For a breaker box relocation from house to the garage.
This randomly showed up in my feed and I am glad it did. I have a small home wiring project I need to do in a few weeks. I just ordered the WAGOs and can't wait to give them a try. Thanks so much for making this video!
The 221 also has test port to check without removing the wires
Great point and thanks for calling that out. The IDEAL push in connector also has the integrated test port. 👍
WOW Amazing...Then again doesn't the wire nut have one at the bottom where the wires go in too?
222 has them too.
@@MyTubeSVp and the "grip" of the 222 versus the 221, coupled with the fact that they're more compact than the 221has me using the 222s.
@@DrHarryT do you mean reaching in and touching the wires via the bottom hole?
I was taught to use wire nuts.. I did not know about the other connectors. I will start using the Wago 221. Thanks for the information.
Working on renovating my house and I just found these connectors, I can't believe I didn't know about them. These save time, room in boxes, and peace of mind. I will be retiring my wire nuts!
I am a DIY'er and once I found the Wago's, I am a big fan and have a package of them in my electrical tool box. They came in handy when we redid the outside lighting at our American Legion Post. The other two guys working (also DIY'ers) were impressed and said that they would probably get a multi-pack of the Wago's.
Thanks for the informational. Very helpful. I have found that by making the stranded wire slightly longer than the solid copper and pushed into the twist cap ahead of the solid copper gives me a firm connection. Again thanks and keep it coming.
Love me the Wago connectors. Started using them a couple years back, hands down awesome sauce. Easy to use, easy to disconnect, easy to reconnect/reuse.
can't wait to purchase in bulk from my electrical supplier and start using!!
New in agricultural 3rd world country US only.
German Wago is connectors world market leader
Done several projects. Everyone I know uses them. Very glad I saw your video. Easier, safer, and more compatible; should have been there sooner. Thank you.
I'm a DIYer and I helped my dad build his house from the ground up. I learned with wire nuts and I like them for what I do. I feel that as long as you use whatever you are using correctly you are fine.
same here i prefer wirenuts, BUT it finally happened to me. working on an old house where previous electrician (should slap him) made a mess. back feeding, reversing wire, adding hot wires where he shouldn't have. old wires (the ones with thread on them) were badly connected. the copper was brittle and pitted. with customer watching and my assistant, wires sparked in from of my face (just like an exploding cigar on cartoons) BAM! customer got scared, assistant starts laughing, i'm not fazed (always wear my face shield) after having a good laugh i cut all the wires but the live ones were too short to pig tail off of. that's where these lever Wago's came in very handy. took 6 hours to complete job plus great learning session for customer and my assistant. the job was to fix an outlet that kept having power then nothing. customer liked the repair that we ended installing recessed light all over the house and mounting a 50 inch TV on the wall.
advice to all out there *"don't try to make a quick buck by doing shoddy work"*
i started using wagos a few years back and they have become my go to connector. not only are they easy to mount specialy when standing on a stair in god knows what position. but they are also made for fine thread wire. with the plate connection. it makes sure to press down on as many wires as possible.
All have their pros and cons but something to keep in mind: The lever nuts may save enough in labor to make up for the cost. If you're going to use lever nuts, use Wago. They're UL listed and, if it matters to you, the 221 has a test point so you can check voltages without taking it apart. No matter what you use make sure it's rated for the amperage you're dealing with.
Appreciate the comments and feedback!
Wire nuts go on so fast that any labor savings would be negligible. Truth be told I'm not convinced the lever nut is actually any faster at all.
@@Steve_Edberg Yeah, that's probably true for someone that does it a lot. I use the lever nuts in 508A panels because most customers will pitch a blue fit if they find a wirenut in the wireway but glance over a lever nut.
@@Steve_Edberg little tip if you're working with solid wire, lever nuts also function as push connects. Only have to use lever function to remove wire. Saved tons of time as a filthy DIYer
The test point feature of the 221 is a good idea in concept but poor in execution, because the opening is too small to accommodate all DMM test probes.
If you do use that feature, make sure the probe tips are narrow enough to go through the opening and contact the conductor. A lot of the probes I've tried are too wide to get through without forcing it in enough to displace the plastic. Once it's been sufficiently enlarged that way, it'll work fine.
Otherwise you could get a false negative reading and think your circuit is deenergized.
Excellent and clearly explained. Thank you for clearing up a lot of confusion in a scientific and detailed way.
You bet, happy to help!
New can recessed lights come with push in connectors attached to the lead wires. I never knew about the push ins until I started installing the lights. After reading the instructions and figuring out how simple it was and finished the installation I got right on Amazon and ordered a 20 pack of push ins 4, 6 and 8 lead connectors for future projects. Fabulous invention.
This is exactly the information I was looking for!. I’m a DIYer and I have to replace some fixtures in my house to get it ready to sell. I HATE wire nuts! I like the idea of having something easy but more importantly secure. The additional cost is worth the peace of mind and the safety aspect. At the end of your video, you suggest DIYers get a Wago Multipack with different sized lever nuts. If you haven’t already... could you do a video explaining what projects or applications would require the different Wago sizes... i.e: 3, 4, & 5 wire lever nut.
Great video! On a side note... I have never saved so many videos from one person!
I’ve been in the electrical industry since 1976. Regarding wire connections the most important principle is a tight connection. A wire that can be moved after inserted in a connector is not a good connection. This is more important the higher the current. Wire nut connections are the best out of the three you gave as an example. To a trained electrician who knows how to use a wire nut, it is the best for device box make up. Simple and always align the ends of each wire evenly and twist the wire nut even before it touches the wires. You will see that the pull test will prove this the best. Also know how much to strip your wire. The surface of each wire in a wire nut has more contact with each other wire making a much better connection and more solid. Twisted wire has been around since there has been wire. Electrical or not. It has been and will be the best none bolted or compressed wire connection because of more surface contact. These points are very important when considering current. I have tried WAGOs in the past and found that it was a mistake and replacement was necessary. WAGOs are easier to install and that saves time. That maybe why your pro survey showed that almost half use them. I will never use the common WAGO again. In using a WAGO use the wire turn test. After the wire is inserted into a WAGO, turn the wire and see if it turns. If it does than you can be sure it’s a bad connection. Especially if used on or near a homerun that can draw 12 amps or plus. Try the test on the 210 connector. Still the wire surface contact in a WAGO or a 210 is zero. Only a small portion of the wire comes in contact with the connector. In other words you are relying on the connector to pass current from one wire to another. You will find on a high current wire will develop carbon and that will compound the bad connections. Push in receptacle connections are the same and should never be used to pass current to another wire. To back up what I’m saying I will refer you to a receptacle device that does not allow an insert for a grounding wire. This principle is backed in the NEC. The connection is not reliable in a ground fault. It must be under a hex nut for a tight connection. I do use the flip connectors for instrumentation wire but that is as far as I would use it now. If insets type connections are good than you would see breakers use them for wire connections. That will not happen.
Regarding you philosophy regarding pro and “Joe” and a joe might find the WAGO or 210 a better connection is really muted by the fact that there is a licensed electrician. If WAGOs and 210 are used by pros than it’s only because of how cheap the contractor is and also his lack of knowledge of how to use a wire nut. I would suggest you use a disclaimer regarding encouragement of wire terminations. It may comeback at you. At least an amp check or a calculation on how much amps in the wire before using a WAGO. Another reason I use wire nuts on projects is because an electrical engineer will spec this out in his specifications. If an electrical engineer specs this out than that should also make you concerned. If you really want to do a survey than you should survey electrical engineers. You might be shocked. No pun intended.
Totally agree. Wago’s suck. I will only use them for fixed lighting loads. Can’t take a wago apart, have to cut them off. On an already short conductor this is not good.
I love the lever connectors. The first time I used one, I was sold. They are much better timewise than wire nuts. Further, they provide more space in the box than wire nuts.
In my opinion another great reason to use WAGO or even push in is the longevity of the wires. Over the years, you will inevitably change switches, receptacles, add devices, or do other things that require "unwrapping" a twist type wire nut. You can do this many times of course, but eventually, the wire either fatigues or just gets so out of shape that it has to be shortened. There isn't always enough spare length. The WAGO and push types are far less damaging to the wire itself.
How and can the push in be removed and or reused? I need to replace a fixture with push in type and it doesn't look like it is removable.
Agreed, WAGO 221 is the best option. They have become very common here in Norway too. Also consider the great benefit, where you can re-open the connections without damaging the wires. Great system.
hi since your up in the north , do you also have 220? if yes how reacts the wago to the difference 110 vs. 220 ? if its melting?
@@xic2365 Hello. We have 230V 50 Hz system in Norway and the continental Europe.
I think there is no specific difference between voltages, it has more to do with the max current loads they can manage to handle before they melts.
@@gahustad2495 thanks 4 the replay. have a good WE
@@xic2365 Cheers, and the same 2U 🙂
I work in the industrial automation field and Wago Lever Nuts have been a game changer over the past 5 years for our designs and applications. The biggest benefit is the ability to insert test probes and easily remove wires for replacement or troubleshooting.
That would be extremely handy when troubleshooting complex systems 👍
Really great watching and learning new things from your video. Wire nuts are pioneered product, cheap, and worked as intended to as long as conductors were pre-twisted to help secured in place. Wago is another good quality product, quick and convenient and well worth it.
I had seen the WAGO 221 on CZcams awhile ago and decided to order a handful just to see if they were as good as they were advertised. Yesterday, I had my first opportunity to use them and I'm 100% satisfied that are are that good. I had to use them in an awkward situation and they made the job so much easier than wire nuts. They are extremely easy to use and make excellent connections. I have used the push in connector, too but they don't offer the flexibility of being reusable. Once the wire goes in, it won't come out.
For light fixtures, or other connection from stranded to solid, I use the WAGO 224 series connectors: Gray (224-101) for Hot, White (224-112) for Neutral (which actually accommodates two solid Neutral wires). They pack easily into the fixture, allow you to 'cap' off the Hot and Neutral from the mains, and allow an easy, safe swap out of the fixture in the future. Just squeeze the connector to insert/remove the stranded wires connected to the fixture.
Scott, I picked up some Wago connectors from Amazon and used them when replacing a couple of switches and dimmers. I love them and will not use wire nuts again. Maybe a little more expensive but well worth it. This is especially true I think for the home DIYer that doesn't need all that many. For an electrician I can see the cost may be more prohibitive. Thanks again for the great review!!
Be careful getting them from Amazon though, they have sold counterfeits in the past
@@natevirtual Wow. Fake cardboard box and everything?
@@gregsmith7391 Yeah, I prefer getting them from reputable sellers
You will be replacing all of those within five to seven years they will all fail juegos do not work I'm an electrician
@@gnormanhayes Most electricians use them here. Are you saying in 5 to 7 years these will all fail in thousands of houses? How could the inspectors pass that? How can the electricians be using them knowing they will all fail in 5 to 7 years? and all these houses will burn down? BTW my 12 year old house is still standing with no problems.
I have been using the ideal push ports for over 5 years. I have the 2 ports up to 8 ports. I've had one problem out of thousands of terminations! I really like how you showed the wire connection inside the port, which is the main problem of people not installing the wire in the ports properly.
When I install light fixtures using 14 Guage and stranded wire, I prefer the smaller orange wire nuts.
good lighting, detailed descriptions, amazing videos. thanks!
I just used Wagos for the first time ever, yesterday and again today. I found them simple and convenient to use. I'm replacing all the switches and receptacles in our 25 year old home with spec grade getting rid of all those cheap back stabbed devices many of which were cracked and had loose connections.
Any spring loaded clip will fail with heat and time Springs do not like heat electricity causes heat the design of the Wego makes a full load of electricity go through the way go instead of from wire-to-wire they will absolutely one-hundred-percent fail no doubt within five to six years
@@gnormanhayes They've been available for well over 10 years in Europe. We've had none of the issues you describe. So, well...
@@gnormanhayes The Metal usually straightens under Heat (reverts back to its original configuration of a Metal Sheet), and Wagos are constructed in such a way that that heat would actually make it press more on the wire rather than get loose. Dont think it cn excert much pressure, but doesnt get loose. In fact overload testing (more than 10x rated load) shows that the Plastic melts away entirely long before the Connection could fail.
Very informative for a DIYer. It's always good to compare available sources/products. Thanks for the effort you put into these videos !
Happy to help and thanks for the support 👍
I have been using wire nuts. I have experienced the "non-hold" problem. I WILL check out the push-ins because, until now, I never heard of them. Thank you for this video! 😊
For me the wago 221 would be great for a no knower DIY when needed. I’m eager learning things that I may be able to do myself. Excellent program!
I just finished wiring a room using the Ideal push-in. Easy. If I had the Wago, I would have used them, too. I like the Wago because you can undo the connection.
Can the push-in be reused? I mean, is it possible to remove a stranded wire from the connector? Or once it has been used you need to cut the wires?
I would be an enthusiastic DIYer and was glad I found the wago 221s - they are simple to use, you can see the wire inside and are so slim that they fit into tiny openings; the extra cost is so irrelevant when you have confidence that the wiring is safe and secure.
You better learn how to properly use wire nuts and make proper connections.Wagos suck and are a fire hazard. I have been an electrician for 35 years,had a Masters license for 20.
@@kyzor-sosay6087 thanks for the information, I didn't realize that they had issues; being rated at 32amp seemed good. I will enquire some more. 👍
@@errolmagill1611 They DON’T have issues. It is the best German quality product you can buy, and in Europe they are the ONLY connectors in use. You can use them with great confidence. Don’t be deterred by people who have done things their way for a 100 years and are unwilling to adopt new and better systems.
@@MyTubeSVp thanks for the reassurance, appreciated. 👍
They are UL listed so they are tested and safe.
I just had a master electrician come in and help me with some stuff I was not comfortable doing. He said as long as you cut your wire to length (as shown on the side of the Wago) and set it in properly, they are completely safe.
Thanks... I bought IDEAL In-Sure at Lowe's, but am going for the WAGO 3 port at Menard's. This DIY'r loves you channel.
I’m a DIY guy with a lot of experience working on older homes and bringing the wiring up to code. I recently tried the wago connectors. The pain of the price was quickly forgotten after a long day of pulling wire and installing boxes and all I had to do was push the wires into the connector to finish the job.
When I've searched the internet on wire nutting solid and stranded wire here is what I've always found for advice: If you hold the ends of solid and stranded wire even with each other while you screw on the wire nut connector, the stranded wire will often wrap loosely around the solid wires, resulting in a loose connection. The problem is easy to prevent by extending the ends of all stranded wires about 1/8 in. So I think you need to give the wire nuts one more try since you led with the solid instead of the stranded.
Exactly what I came to say. I'm an electrician and always lead with the stranded.
I’ve been trained by my brother electrician. Always did it this way with great results for over 40 years.
His point was that a DIY guy wouldn't have the experience or knowledge to use them correctly. I've already seen a couple comments from pros that said they have to be even when inserted, which might work most of the time but still leaves room for error. He should have identified the correct way to install them for anyone watching that doesn't know though.
Id came to say lead with the standard wire as well im only a dyier
This is why electrical work should only be done by a competent electrician. I used to work with "electricians" who didn't understand why their AFCI kept tripping when they turned something on. 1. Didn't read the instructions, 2. Didn't know how it works, 3. Weren't properly trained. The worst thing is that they think they know what they're doing just like this guy. I definitely wouldn't want to have a large window AC running on this type of connector anywhere in the circuit. But I would with a properly installed Wirenut.
I used the Wago lever nuts today, I had a massive amount of wires in one junction box and had to diagnose why not only the lights didn’t work, but the outlets not having proper power and the breaker tripping when the 2nd lightswitch was flipped. I’m not a pro electrician but it was invaluable to be able to swap wires from one Wago to the other to figure out everything without having to restraighten and untwist wires constantly.
Definitely better for troubleshooting
@@gurjindersingh199 Until you find out the Wago was the problem.
@@DrHarryT I'm an electrician. I've been watching some pretty crazy wago videos. They actually impress me now. I still refuse to use them though. Lol.
@@ElkStirrinTheHoney same bro. We call wire nuts marettes here in Canada tho. I just call them wire nuts tho lol
@@DrHarryT thats not gunna be the case. Get what ypu pay for as he showed. But no corporation is going to pony up for the extra cost even tho it saves in labor substantially. So thats why everyone love wire nuts, i use them just to save on wagos when i dont absolutely need a wago.
Just ordered an assortment pack based on your review of the Wago 221. Wire nuts are such a PITA with 12ga wire in a box. Wish I had used these before I started switching out the outlets in the house. They for sure will be used on the rest of it. Thanks!
I’m using wago 221 & 223 for the 1st time and they very grate for DIY’s , who just started doing wiring.
I can't believe I never saw these push in connectors before!
Great video. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
I watched this and I must say here in central Europe I have never seen wire nuts. Our "cheap connection" is one with screws holding the wires in.
Yeah, but how are your taxes? Lol.
Because Americans think they know better than the rest of the word. They still use mamoth 50 gallong water tank for hot water.
and @S Kaye 's response above is from a typical arrogant American who think he knows better than the rest of the world.
@@nope_not-showing-my-name And well-insulated hot water tanks are significantly more energy efficient than on-demand units. You have tiny on-demand units because you live in tiny homes. My garage is bigger than your entire apartment, loser.
@@nope_not-showing-my-name We also have the ability to heat water in our storage tanks with solar ($900 for a solar conversion). Free hot water. Let's see you try that in your frozen wasteland...
In Portugal we use wirenuts everywhere in our electrical boxes, no reason to use anything else, if i got 7 grounds being wired together i either do it with a single wirenut or with 3 wagos, why would i ever bother using 3 wagos lol
I'm so glad you said you liked the back trace method of hooking up outlets and switched. I used that style of hook ups for all the outlets I changed
In 2015 I bought an old mobile home and put in all new outlets and switches. In checking out the requirements/recommendations, due to the MH being wired with aluminum wire, I found Wago connectors were highly recommended. I went to every home improvement store and electrical supplier I could find. Most had no idea what I was talking about. I ended up getting them from a supplier on line and paid more than $3 each piece for them. They were the push in type. It was a large bill for such a project but made the job much easier to do.
In Belgium we stopped using wirenuts some 20 years ago. I don’t think you can buy them anymore, and using them in residential installations would be seriously frowned upon.
Thanks for the feedback Stefan, it is nice to see the difference in code and practices across other countries.
I'm closing on my first house later today and you've really opened my eyes to a difference in electrical component quality that I didn't know existed. Between the wago flip nuts and commercial grade recepticals, I'm going to be replacing all of them with the higher quality. You're amazing.
Wire nuts are the best.. They use copper in the wire to make the bond . Wago uses a dissimilar metal buss bar which over time will corrode from Galvanic corrosion...
With WAGO Alu-Plus Contact Paste, you can connect aluminum and copper conductors using WAGO's connectors - quickly, easily and reliably.
Thanks for taking trouble to dissect the connectors for explaination. Very explanatory video. Good job.
Thank you! Purchased Wago connectors. I definitely see them being used for lights, which need to be removed when painting walls or ceilings.
I have one more comment on Wago push in wire connectors. Lets say I rough wire receptacles in a basement. I install the Wagos at roughin. I can test the circuit to make sure I have power at the end and then disconnect it from power while the drywall guys do their work. I then pig tail my receptacles. When its time to install the devices each device takes much less time to install than having to use wire nuts. I like the time these save me.
Installing a wago is ten times faster than a wire nut.
And the wago is still good, while the wire nut is supposed to be loose after some years
For various reasons, Wago is the way to go for DIY’ers. I’ve been using them for a couple years now. No problems and so much easier. The cost is a factor. I change/add/replace a receptacle or light fixture 3-4 times a year. Well worth the time and trouble trying to get wires tied together and at the moment you push the connection back into the box, a wire pops out!!!
Great video, I have watched some of his other videos and they are all excellent. Two thumbs way up.
Excellent presentation. Very precise about pros and cons. Professional in every way. Good advice.
Back in 2014 I was renovating a part of my home, and saw a review of the Wago lever-nuts. I fell in love with them because I have been that poor schmuck who had to unscrew a 3-way nut to add one more wire, and then a week later had to unscrew the 4-way nut to add one more wire. So the idea of being able to quickly fix that was very attractive. I bought a bunch of the lever-nuts, I still have them, and I encourage everyone I know to use them. My only complaint is, as you point out, they're somewhat fat. So when the box is already tight it can be a chore to get things arranged. In particular, the "smart" thermostats for electric radiant bathroom heat are a stone bitch to fit into a small metal box. But it CAN be done. (Just make sure you charge by the hour for this.)
I adore those Wago lever-nuts. I've been using them in wiring up LED lighting for several years and they are so much more secure when you can use them.
Thanks for the feedback Orson 👍
Great video.. Really useful for aspiring DIYers. Thank you
I have always used wire nuts because I didn't know there was something else available. I have seen recently the push-in connectors but never liked them because they don't came apart. After watching your video I went to Home Depot and bought some Wagos. I really like them. In older European cars they would use wire terminals that had screw connectors instead of the plugs the American car companies used. I loved that style of connection. So much easier to take apart and rewire if need be. Thanks for the information on the connectors.
Contractors will use the cheapest thing they can when possible. I've used Wago 222 style connectors for a long time in a commercial setting and have never had a customer have a failure with them. When you're talking stranded wires, wire nuts simply do not belong there in my opinion. For the cost of a 222 or 221, it's well worth knowing that it will hold.
I was taught to pre twist wires with needle nose plier & regular pliers, than with regular pliers tighten wire nut, tug test, than wrap wire and wire nut with quality 3m electrical tape. Not going to fail and short out a metal box. Sticky mess to take apart years later. I will give Waggo connectors a try, look like a safe product and a time saver, for lights and 20 amp outlets. Very nice way to connect more than 3 ground wires.
I am a licensed electrician. I use both wire nuts and Wagos. I have been using Wagos for 10 years without any problems. Wire nuts are fine also. I do find more problems with wire nuts in the field, people miss using or not correctly installing wire nuts. I like the Wagos because I can see the connection. I have had zero problems with them over heating. I use Wagos more than wire nuts.
Hey Drew, appreciate the feedback. Where do you guy your Wagos?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Menards
Yeah, my ceiling fan/lite: was troublesome with wire nuts/ gonna try wago lever clips, due to your excellent comprehensive video. THANKS, A DIY-ER
As a DIYer i used the 222 in one of my friends house and it worked very well as idid the whole house. The 221 was not available at that time. But, certainly will buy some if available at the Home Depot.
I find the greatest advantage for the push types vs the wire nuts is the volume and shape of wire that ends up stuffed into the box. No more twisting into huge, difficult to mold in place stalks of multiple wires. No more or at least less cursing when you find the last person in the box did not leave enough lead. *** But the best effect is that the push types leave more space in your box which means safer heat dissipation and easier access ***. I'n a DIYer who's used all 3, but for my own home I use Wagos.
Been using wirenuts, but as you'll see from your affiliate link, I'll be using the Wago for the rest of my needs on this project. I tried the push-in types awhile ago, and my issue was that with lighting (or other stranded wires), even if I twisted them tight, I had trouble pushing them into the push-in connectors. The lever type should reduce this headache! I hate hanging lights by the way. What an awkward working position.
After watching one of your other videos (first one I saw) I was convinced to go with Wago. Love them.
I switched to Wago connectors and never going back to wire nuts. P.S. appreciate all your videos.
Same here 🙋♂️ I have a large assortment of *Wago 221 from Amazon
Same as well!
Let use know how your neutrals are doing in a few years.
After 2 years, my wago 221's are still reliably delivering power. Bringing 7 wires together with wirenuts with the inevitable 3 wires that don't twist is junk. Just a daisy chain of a couple of 5-way wagos will get those 7 grounds connected with 100% reliability.
I'm a DYI and I use the Wago 221. I love them!
I didn't event know the WAGO products existed. I expect they'll be my new go-to for DIY use in my RV, along with 12 volt accessory upgrades on my golf cart. Thanks!
As a DIY'r and having worked for the local utility having seen the cause of house fires caused by incomplete connections heating up to flash over, I have switched to Wago 221's and appreciate your demonstration confirming my choice. I have difficulty with old wire in my 70 year old house which make making connections more difficult.
I've always used wire nuts and do a pull test. When connecting stranded to solid, I would always solder coat the stranded before mating it with the solid and using a wire nut. Thanks for enlightening me to these other connectors. I'll be using them in the future.
Happy to help and thanks for engaging in the comments 👍
If you just ensure you start with the stranded wire stripped and extended longer than the solid, you can dispense with the solder tinning step. The stranded wire will always wrap around the solid, so it requires more length in the splice, so you just need to allow for that.
Or pay the extra cents for a lever lock, if it's worth the time saved in soldering.
In Germany we use Wago push in connectors the most time in house wiring.
Excellent. Very relevant. Thanks for sharing this info. I'm just a Joe but my Dad was a first class wire man in the day. Stay safe.
Excellent objective review and comparison. samples of actual use are very good as well.
Nothing replaces just doing every task properly. So great for these more safe options for those who for what ever reason have a hard time doing things properly or even carelessly.
Yeah, gotta love the exaggerated infomercial approach.
I love the wago 221 because they are rated up to 30 amps and will connect from 10 to 20 AWG solid or stranded wire.
Can you use more than one wire into an entry port ?
Many times you run across numerous neutrals.
Wago 221 lever nuts is all I use from now on. I found them in 2019 by watching another CZcamsr. Thanks for sharing.
Yeah, I think Wago 221 could have a much larger distribution with a little more awareness. Thanks for the feedback.
Remarkable presentation, best put together, organized and recorded, an absolute example for many well meaning, and otherwise well informing ones, but relying on the viewer's ability to join the presenter's frame of mind.
I was so grateful for this information. As a single woman I need to know as much as I can about good, better, best.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice video! One thing you didn't comment on is a comparison of the electrical quality of the connection ... the resistance added by the connection. Yes, it's probably negligible, but I'm thinking about the comparison of an RV's 'insert and twist and close lock ring' plug where the contact surfaces have much less contact surface/more resistance than the relatively new 'SmartPlug'.
Thank you very much, with you information it prevented me from doing a dangerous connection. It made me discover the Wago lever connectors.
Thank you very much for your informative and useful explanations. God bless you.
Been using wire nuts for decades and when used properly never had a problem. Use an infrared camera and you will see they produce less heat at the junction...ie lower resistance.
SHHH don't let them hear you. They'll call you person who hates change, without even attempting to understand your logic
@@Doomzdayxx No, this is just ignoring facts.
For failing lose wire nuts you are always blaming the electrician before not properly doing the job or even forgetting to tighten nuts at all.
Fact is:
Wire nuts fail by system.
Any screw nut combination fails with temperature change or vibration without spring lever or glue.
Wire nuts are inferior unsafe devices only used by medieval agricultural societies like US.
Other world uses hightech german WAGO, world market leader
@@proislam1447 - Wire nut goes bad? Installers fault! Wago goes bad? Design flaw! Just as you said, the wire nut is a flawed system. It kills me to remove a switch plate after I move into a place and see a missing wire nut. Even if we wanted to blame the installer, it's obvious we should fix the system since we can't fix all the installers (including me)!
I ordered the assortment from Amazon via the link above. For me to be able to easily do electrical projects safely myself is worth it, way cheaper than calling an electrician. Who cares if the connectors cost 50 cents each, I won't use that many as a homeowner. Thanks for doing this video...I've always had trouble using wire nuts, especially joining more than 2 wires together.
Good and timely article, thanks for sharing. I recently had opportunity to install a pair of surface mount sconce lights to replace an old failing pair. The new fixtures were of a slim design that had very shallow canopy recess for holding wires. The electrical boxes were “pancake” boxes and the pair of fixtures were wired to a pair of three way switches. In order to connect the wires and still contain them in the available housing space I would have had to change the electrical junction boxes to deeper ones if I had to use wire nuts. Ideal push connectors saved the day with their low profile design.
This is really a good video to explain everything. And, I really like your different graphics. You really thought about this. Thank you for your intelligent way of showing cost per unit. Brilliant.
Happy to help and welcome to the channel.
You should twist the solid and stranded wires together with your side cutters, bend the solid wire over to clamp down on the stranded wire, then apply the wire nut, the connection will be as good as the wago, the push in connecting will trip arc faults, the wago is a great connector, but for cost, if you know what your doing the wire nut is the best option price wise.
Just my opinion
Wire nuts fail by system.
Any screw nut combination fails with temperature change or vibration without spring lever or glue.
Wire nuts are inferior unsafe devices only used by medieval agricultural societies like US.
Other world uses hightech german WAGO world market leader