DOOD! I'm so glad that these helpful videos don't "age out"! I've had the same problem a BUNCH of times, and no matter what I tried, it always came off on me when I was on a road trip! I'm heading to the garage this morning to go through this process again, and with your help, I think I will finally resolve this issue! Thanks for dedicating your time to help the rest of us! Ride safe my friend!
My front shifter arm came loose at on my 08 Electra Glide Classic at 45,000 miles. Whoever had been servicing the bike put on old bolts that were impossible to screw out. I disconnected it in back side and slid the shaft out like J showed. The rear shifter arm would not screw out so I turned it upside down in a vice and ground a small channel between the two shifter levers on the bottom side and welded the two together. I turned it back shiny side up and reassembled it. I rode it like I stole it and it shifts just fine. Someday when I want to pay the Harley Gods some money for parts I might fix it the dealership way. Nah, mine will probably last longer... ;)
Just came back from a 540 mile trip, my first road trip on my 2011 Ultra Limited. Same thing happened to me 11 miles from home. Had to take the last 11 miles in first gear. Your video was just exactly what I needed to locate the problem. Tomorrow I'll replace the shaft, shifter arm, and bolt and will be singing your praises throughout the whole process. Many thanks.
Jonathan Holen, I used to ride bicycle a lot could strip it down to the frame. Still had some water-proof bottom bracket grease. Coated the shifter shaft on my Ultra whan I followed your directions. Shifting is even smoother than it was.
Had mine fly off on I-80 at 75mph on my old bike 01' electra glide ultra couch. It was NOT sloppy before hand. The shifter side bolt was still in the shifter when I picked it up off the road. The bolt is fully threaded and the threads sheared off inside the groove allowing it to vibrate off. Solution is to use a hardened shank bolt. That way a full solid shank is in the groove not a few threads that wear over time. 2 ways to accomplish this seeing as no one makes a bolt this exact size. Example # 1) Take a same diameter solid shank bolt longer than the stock bolt and cut it to correct length, then thread the end. Example # 2) drill out shifter lever and back lever threads and put in a correct diameter solid shank bolt with threads that start past the other end then add a washer, lock washer, nut, cap nut . You can get this bolt at any hardware store. Yes this looks like over kill but it worked for me for 3 years before I did example #1. Metric bikes use aluminum shift levers that partially crush on the steel shift rod, not steel on steel like Harley's and they use solid shank bolts. Both my dirt bikes, KTM 690 and my 1st gen KLR 650 Kawasaki have this setup. Hope this helps somebody.
Great video Jonathan! The only other thing I would add is that when I take the shift arms off, I usually mark them with a paint pen/pencil/marker with a line through the shifter shaft so that I can re-orient them in the same position when I put them back on. This prevents making further adjustments for toe spacing / foot clearance later.
The shifter linkage gets a lot of use. It is an item that needs maintenance and inspection often. What you did here is what a lot of people fail to do. LUBRICATE. Always add just a drop to the ball linkages and the main shaft a coating of grease when removing and re-installing. HD used to put a grease fitting on the main shift but no more. Some even have a nylon insert over the shaft. So next time use some lubrication and you will see just how much smoother the transmissions shifts.
This is a very informative video. You addressed the issue with the 3 pinch bolts , heel shifter bolt, toe shifter bolt, and front lever bolt, however there is a 4th bolt at the rear that links the shaft to the transmission that also needs attention. If the splines on this shaft round out you are in for a very expensive repair. It too should be checked for proper "tightness" as it is a vital pinch bolt to keep an eye on. The torq value on that 1/4 inch bolt is also roughly 20 ft. lbs. The 3/16 pinch bolt at the front lever should be torqued to roughly 8 ft. lbs. I speak from experience here as mine let go a few weeks ago on a trip where I was hours from home! Mine happened at the 36,000 mile mark on my bike. For yours to let go at the 10,000 mile mark is very discouraging.
Glad you got it sorted out ! I just came across your channel in my feed actually. I'm happy to support your efforts and those of other fellow moto content creators. I look forward to seeing and hearing more from you in the future ; keep up the great work and ride safe out there.
Jonathan. I lost my heelshifter in the mountains once. Found it on the way back. It was all scratched up, but, I put it on when I got home. It still works. I am always checking different bolts for tightness. Great info, I will look more.
Thanks Jonathan. Same happened to me, but I had put it back together improperly and rounded out the teeth in the shifter shaft, so it came off again. Very good video.
Awesome video , what happend to you is exactly what happened to me today but I was unfortunately about an hour from home . Thank you for this showed me exactly what I need to do
Good info. My shifter slipped out today and I figured out how to put it back (good to know my 2015 Streetglide can make it home in 3rd gear). Seems the spline stuff is similar to my other bikes so it all made sense. Now I know to inspect these items regularly.
Thanks for this video! My issue was the same as yours except that it didn't come off. It just didn't grip the splines anymore because they were warn down and made useless. Also, like you showed, the bolt I removed from the pinch bracket had the same "damage" on it. I'm going to replace the bolt. Interesting that this happened at 10,000 miles like yours. One of the commenters mentioned the shaft at the transmission end. There is a lever replacement recommended if/when that one goes bad instead of buying the Harley lever. I won't mention the lever since I don't want you to think I'm a spammer. Thanks again for the video!!
Brian Foster. My pleasure! Which did you replace it with? Several out there -- just recently took off my heel shifter and like another poster said put a bit of lube on the shaft.
My Harley Dealer sent me original equipment manufactured parts. I think I will buy another set of parts to carry with me at all times. My concern now is when the one at the transmission end goes out. I guess that would require a tow or trying to make it somewhere in the last gear used. I see one of the commenters mentioned torque values. I don't question the accuracy of the comment. I'm going to torque the bolt like he recommended. By the way. Congratulations on your new family member!
The back lever has a replacement recommended to me at betterlever.com. It's expensive due to being Stainless Steel. It's advertised as being able to grip the shaft even if the splines are damaged on it. On my Trike, it looks like it would need to be on a lift (which I don't have) to get to the Transmission end lever. Something to look forward to I guess......
Greetings from New Zealand. Good information. Had this problem this afternoon 20 miles from home in the middle of nowhere. No tools but 2 5inch cable ties which i used to hold shifters to the shaft until i got home. The very Allen tool i needed i didnt have.only metric. off to the hardware shop tomorrow to solve that problem. I have owned my 2013 Tri glide from new and never touched these shifters. So it must have come this way from the factory. Out of warranty so my problem.
I eliminated the heel shifter. Much more room on the board, and eliminates some of the weight that loosens under vibration. I also replaced the cheap ball and socket connectors with heim joints, and replaced the rear shift shaft lever with a Beueller's Better Lever, which clamps from both sides. No issues over several years.
@Tommer dean Can you explain more specifically what ‘heim joints’ are and why/how you use them in this application? I have an ‘03 Electra Glide and my shifter lever has fallen off and been lost on a road trip (glad I had 2) and my shift linkage came apart on another trip where the spacers and keeper nuts were lost and only a new linkage purchased from a dealer could fix the problem. I now carry a spare and always have the complete tool kit which no longer comes with H-Ds at this price point 😮.
I'm not sure how to post a picture here, but heim joints replace the cheap ball and socket attatchments on both ends of your shift linkeage. They are like a big round ball bearing that fits into a nylon cup that allows complete rotation. You can pick them up in most hardware or auto parts stores. Bring your shift linkeage in with you for correct fitment. If you google heim joints, you will get an idea what they look like. In fact, most upgraded shift levers have heim joints on them. Hope this helps.
Ive had issues with mine off and on for the past 5yrs...today Im replacing the shifter lever the shaft and the shifter cam lever. Im hoping its done once and for all..but good ol harley always finds a way to sell u some new parts. Shift Lever Shaft and Spacer Cam Lever Grand total $125.00 Just to give u all an idea of what that costs....RIDE ON My friends!!!!
...also, NO BALL ENDS! Just asking for problems. Make sure tools are well seated. Very impressed that poster dealt with front with standard Allen Wrench.
My rear bolt shaft slipped out and lost shifting capability at approx. 12k miles what a pain it was to mess with it when you have lower fairing. So it seems that the shaft or the link was stripped b/c after tightening it still slipped. I had to get a visegrip and clamp it to the blade and kick it forward and backward to get me home. Very disappointed with HD for a while with many other issues.
When I first got my bike it had the front and rear shift levers. At a light, for some reason my boot got caught between the levers, I could not get my boot out and I went down with bike. Anyway, I took off the rear lever and that solved the problem for me. If you ever decide to take your rear lever off Harley sells a cap which slides onto the end of the shaft hiding the splines for a cleaner look.
Will To Power I've taken my rear off for longer distance comfort. I created a bushing to cover the splines as I placed thr front shifter on the outer most portion of the spine. Bushing then sits in between.
Had this issue more than once put bailing wire on it for a while until i chamged the pin after changing the pin just had the same problem again im assuming now because i didnt take the bolt all the way out on the back to make sure it sits in that groove dont i feel dumb
I just rode from Miami to Austin, TX. 70 miles from Austin i had the same issue. I tried to fix it on the side of the road. 30 miles afterwards, the whole thing was gone. The inner arm, with toe shifter and heel shifter. Do you know the name of that inner arm or do you have a link where I can get it, please? Thank you so much for the great video. Subscribing 👌🏼
Fukn awesome bro had the same issue on my glide thought i needed a puller take the bolts right out....on it !!!👍❤.....PS check the linkage on the back spline too....no play 0...mine had like 1/16 wiggle not good tighten that puppy up too bro!! totally l;ost shifting limped her home in first ...........thanks cheers 🍻❤👍😎
No problem! I'm currently testing a beer can trick -- cut a small portion and placed it inside the shifter arm, to hopefully give it a bit more bite. We'll see -- going to pull it and see how it's doing before a large trip. With that said, travel w/ wire and zip ties! Might need 'em.
wow…. this happened to you but you didn’t know the bolts HAVE to be completely removed?? There is no other way. And hopefully by now you realized you also need to change that OEM shift rod with one that uses Heim joints
Encountered this same issue during my solo ride from Singapore to Phuket, Thailand. During the 2800km ride, the screw came loose 3 times. Just glad it didn't come off when I was riding in the pitch dark conditions in Thailand. I do have a question... does the screws need to be replaced, considering it has worn off. Also, does the connecting shaft needs to be replaced as well? Thanks a million for the video and reply. Cheers!
Daniel Mah I didn't feel the need to replace mine. It clearly grips on the threads so just applied a liberal amount of thread lock. Well, and regular inspection.
good video,,,, but I don't think you could get the bolt in if the groove is lined up with the bolt, as you suggested it was,,. the bolt would run into the shaft,..... hence is why you have to take the bolts all the way out,...
Hey Jonathan, I’d forgotten you’d made this video and I experienced the problem again today in the middle of nowhere. Splines are stripped after the shaft was replaced, bolts were torqued to spec and blue locktite was used this winter. I’m not impressed. Looking at designing a better solution. I’ll let you know what I end up doing.
For sure Mark! Pretty telling as this video never was intended to reach such a large audience, though after putting it up it's at 22.8k views! Definitely seems to suggest this is a pretty wide reaching issue. Interesting to hear the grease fitting part didn't help. I'm checking mine tomorrow as I go over the bike so it'll be interesting to see what mine looks like (try to inspect mine @ oil changes and I'm doing my oil change here in a week or so).
The shaft is harder than the shifter legs, sounds like the toe or heal shifter splines were also damaged, hope you checked them b4 reinstall or its going to happen again pretty soon even if the bolts are torqued to specs. Noce thing is its an easy fix
I seldom leave comments, however, I wonder if a longer bolt going all the way through and then secured with a lock nut might help. At any rate frequent (critical?) checks seem prudent. Had no idea alloys used contained oatmeal and jello.
Hi ! I wouldn't put a longer bolt because it might stick out too far and hit the side of the block , then it won't make , engage the shifter all the way forward enough to put it in gear . . Sometimes people have that exact problem because they, someone put the wrong size bolt, so if your having problems maybe getting it in neutral or something , you might want to check to see if that might be your or someone else's problem ? 😊
Quick question.. how much play do you get? do you get any platy at all? talking about the shaft and shifters as a whole unit. I am getting some play on mine that's why I ask. Thank you.
FYI: if u ever get any wobble of the shaft in the primary case tube/hole, there are metal bushings (shifter shaft bushings) in there that can be replaced. Check YT for more info on replacing those with a JIMS tool. Cheaper than going to stealer 😉👍 Also, if u ever have any issues with the shifter sticking, remove the shaft like you did in the video, and clean the shaft and tube out, and add a little anti-seize on the shaft, and reassemble 👍
bolt wont fully seat unless its in the channel... the bolt keeps the lever(S) from sliding off the shaft. the splines keep the lever(S) in position. biggest issue, heavy boot shifting will wear the splines off and let the levers spin freely. 49k miles on my 09 ultra and never had an issue with the shifting
Jonathan Holen This opened my eyes. It was very informative. Where did you find the torque specifications for the bolts? Thank you for the information.
Some of these people should knot be touching spanner’s it’s painful to watch them yes the threads are damaged you’d did knot have it in line when you forst the bolt in can’t witch no more
So I know this is an old conversation but ok just my two cents why would you reinstall worn bolts that have already failed also you have a steel shaft inside cast aluminum lever spinning. Ummm gee think I would check the inside of that lever now my fix disassemble everything drill through lever and dimple the shat then tap the lever and insert set screw to set inside dimple on shaft make sure use blue locktight
@@jfuente I deserved that was having a bad day to add to the linkage issues make sure the rear one on top of tranny is tight if that one loosens up $$$$ have to pull tranny apart to replace shaft need long ball Allen wrench to reach it
You found the problem but why would you even suggest or consider putting it back together with just loctite unless it was an emergency repair! Plus you should have edited out the part that you said "you don't need to take the bolts completely out of the shift arms"? Totally amature and unresearched. Spreading misinformation and adding to the frustration of all who would attempt this based only on this video. Thumbs down. I know this is a very old video but I'll bet you've had to replace everything that you "repaired".
Feel free to make a professional edit and correct my misinformation. CZcams used to be a place of amateurs... Most guys aren't doing this for a profession.
Excellent camera angle, excellent tutorial, and cute kid !!!!!! Mine broke today and tomorrow im getting on it , Thanks !!!
DOOD! I'm so glad that these helpful videos don't "age out"! I've had the same problem a BUNCH of times, and no matter what I tried, it always came off on me when I was on a road trip! I'm heading to the garage this morning to go through this process again, and with your help, I think I will finally resolve this issue! Thanks for dedicating your time to help the rest of us! Ride safe my friend!
My pleasure. Ride safe!
My front shifter arm came loose at on my 08 Electra Glide Classic at 45,000 miles. Whoever had been servicing the bike put on old bolts that were impossible to screw out. I disconnected it in back side and slid the shaft out like J showed. The rear shifter arm would not screw out so I turned it upside down in a vice and ground a small channel between the two shifter levers on the bottom side and welded the two together. I turned it back shiny side up and reassembled it. I rode it like I stole it and it shifts just fine. Someday when I want to pay the Harley Gods some money for parts I might fix it the dealership way. Nah, mine will probably last longer... ;)
Just came back from a 540 mile trip, my first road trip on my 2011 Ultra Limited. Same thing happened to me 11 miles from home. Had to take the last 11 miles in first gear. Your video was just exactly what I needed to locate the problem. Tomorrow I'll replace the shaft, shifter arm, and bolt and will be singing your praises throughout the whole process. Many thanks.
Norman Teck my pleasure! I just checked mine on my last oil change. Nothing major but cleaned the bolt threads, reapplied thread lock and reinstalled.
Jonathan Holen, I used to ride bicycle a lot could strip it down to the frame. Still had some water-proof bottom bracket grease. Coated the shifter shaft on my Ultra whan I followed your directions. Shifting is even smoother than it was.
Had mine fly off on I-80 at 75mph on my old bike 01' electra glide ultra couch. It was NOT sloppy before hand. The shifter side bolt was still in the shifter when I picked it up off the road. The bolt is fully threaded and the threads sheared off inside the groove allowing it to vibrate off.
Solution is to use a hardened shank bolt. That way a full solid shank is in the groove not a few threads that wear over time.
2 ways to accomplish this seeing as no one makes a bolt this exact size.
Example # 1) Take a same diameter solid shank bolt longer than the stock bolt and cut it to correct length, then thread the end.
Example # 2) drill out shifter lever and back lever threads and put in a correct diameter solid shank bolt with threads that start past the other end then add a washer, lock washer, nut, cap nut . You can get this bolt at any hardware store. Yes this looks like over kill but it worked for me for 3 years before I did example #1.
Metric bikes use aluminum shift levers that partially crush on the steel shift rod, not steel on steel like Harley's and they use solid shank bolts. Both my dirt bikes, KTM 690 and my 1st gen KLR 650 Kawasaki have this setup. Hope this helps somebody.
Good stuff!
Great video Jonathan! The only other thing I would add is that when I take the shift arms off, I usually mark them with a paint pen/pencil/marker with a line through the shifter shaft so that I can re-orient them in the same position when I put them back on. This prevents making further adjustments for toe spacing / foot clearance later.
The shifter linkage gets a lot of use. It is an item that needs maintenance and inspection often. What you did here is what a lot of people fail to do. LUBRICATE. Always add just a drop to the ball linkages and the main shaft a coating of grease when removing and re-installing. HD used to put a grease fitting on the main shift but no more. Some even have a nylon insert over the shaft. So next time use some lubrication and you will see just how much smoother the transmissions shifts.
Exactly what I needed. Thank you for posting.
Excellent video. I'm getting ready to install a heel shifter on my '22 Heritage.
Good video. I didn’t even know about that back bolt. Thanks for saving me some future heartache.
No problem! Happy to help
This is a very informative video. You addressed the issue with the 3 pinch bolts , heel shifter bolt, toe shifter bolt, and front lever bolt, however there is a 4th bolt at the rear that links the shaft to the transmission that also needs attention. If the splines on this shaft round out you are in for a very expensive repair. It too should be checked for proper "tightness" as it is a vital pinch bolt to keep an eye on. The torq value on that 1/4 inch bolt is also roughly 20 ft. lbs. The 3/16 pinch bolt at the front lever should be torqued to roughly 8 ft. lbs. I speak from experience here as mine let go a few weeks ago on a trip where I was hours from home! Mine happened at the 36,000 mile mark on my bike. For yours to let go at the 10,000 mile mark is very discouraging.
How expensive are we talking if the splines round out on the shaft that connects to transmission?
@@samstein1822 If you replace it yourself, less than $100 including inner primary seals.
Glad you got it sorted out ! I just came across your channel in my feed actually. I'm happy to support your efforts and those of other fellow moto content creators. I look forward to seeing and hearing more from you in the future ; keep up the great work and ride safe out there.
Great video. Thanks so much.
Jonathan. I lost my heelshifter in the mountains once. Found it on the way back. It was all scratched up, but, I put it on when I got home. It still works. I am always checking different bolts for tightness. Great info, I will look more.
Carlos Gutierrez glad you found it!
Thank you for sharing this information Sr. you're the one that made me pick up the Cruz tools for HD
BoDad415 my pleasure! Yeah, they're excellent kits. Glad I could help.
Thanks Jonathan. Same happened to me, but I had put it back together improperly and rounded out the teeth in the shifter shaft, so it came off again. Very good video.
Thanks Phil! Glad to help.
Thanks for posting. It makes it a bit better when we can see that its not all easy to do.!!! Good luck with the newone!!
My pleasure -- hope it helps.
Hey, thank you for this great info. You just save me a trip to Harley-Davidson and save me probably a couple hundred dollars too! Thanks again....
My pleasure bro!
My road king is very loose. So now i know what to look for. THANKS!!
No problem
Awesome video , what happend to you is exactly what happened to me today but I was unfortunately about an hour from home . Thank you for this showed me exactly what I need to do
My pleasure! Glad to help.
great video. thanks. on mine, the heel got loose and was just sitting there so, im taking it off and hoping their is no issue in going without it.
Congrats on the baby!
Good info. My shifter slipped out today and I figured out how to put it back (good to know my 2015 Streetglide can make it home in 3rd gear). Seems the spline stuff is similar to my other bikes so it all made sense. Now I know to inspect these items regularly.
Glad it could help!
Great video
Thanks for this video! My issue was the same as yours except that it didn't come off. It just didn't grip the splines anymore because they were warn down and made useless. Also, like you showed, the bolt I removed from the pinch bracket had the same "damage" on it. I'm going to replace the bolt. Interesting that this happened at 10,000 miles like yours. One of the commenters mentioned the shaft at the transmission end. There is a lever replacement recommended if/when that one goes bad instead of buying the Harley lever. I won't mention the lever since I don't want you to think I'm a spammer. Thanks again for the video!!
Brian Foster. My pleasure! Which did you replace it with? Several out there -- just recently took off my heel shifter and like another poster said put a bit of lube on the shaft.
My Harley Dealer sent me original equipment manufactured parts. I think I will buy another set of parts to carry with me at all times. My concern now is when the one at the transmission end goes out. I guess that would require a tow or trying to make it somewhere in the last gear used. I see one of the commenters mentioned torque values. I don't question the accuracy of the comment. I'm going to torque the bolt like he recommended. By the way. Congratulations on your new family member!
The back lever has a replacement recommended to me at betterlever.com. It's expensive due to being Stainless Steel. It's advertised as being able to grip the shaft even if the splines are damaged on it. On my Trike, it looks like it would need to be on a lift (which I don't have) to get to the Transmission end lever. Something to look forward to I guess......
Greetings from New Zealand.
Good information. Had this problem this afternoon 20 miles from home in the middle of nowhere. No tools but 2 5inch cable ties which i used to hold shifters to the shaft until i got home. The very Allen tool i needed i didnt have.only metric. off to the hardware shop tomorrow to solve that problem. I have owned my 2013 Tri glide from new and never touched these shifters. So it must have come this way from the factory. Out of warranty so my problem.
You're welcome! Glad you got it fixed. Ya good to carry a spare as well.
I eliminated the heel shifter. Much more room on the board, and eliminates some of the weight that loosens under vibration. I also replaced the cheap ball and socket connectors with heim joints, and replaced the rear shift shaft lever with a Beueller's Better Lever, which clamps from both sides. No issues over several years.
@Tommer dean Can you explain more specifically what ‘heim joints’ are and why/how you use them in this application? I have an ‘03 Electra Glide and my shifter lever has fallen off and been lost on a road trip (glad I had 2) and my shift linkage came apart on another trip where the spacers and keeper nuts were lost and only a new linkage purchased from a dealer could fix the problem. I now carry a spare and always have the complete tool kit which no longer comes with H-Ds at this price point 😮.
I'm not sure how to post a picture here, but heim joints replace the cheap ball and socket attatchments on both ends of your shift linkeage. They are like a big round ball bearing that fits into a nylon cup that allows complete rotation. You can pick them up in most hardware or auto parts stores. Bring your shift linkeage in with you for correct fitment. If you google heim joints, you will get an idea what they look like. In fact, most upgraded shift levers have heim joints on them. Hope this helps.
Ive had issues with mine off and on for the past 5yrs...today Im replacing the shifter lever the shaft and the shifter cam lever. Im hoping its done once and for all..but good ol harley always finds a way to sell u some new parts.
Shift Lever
Shaft and Spacer
Cam Lever
Grand total $125.00
Just to give u all an idea of what that costs....RIDE ON My friends!!!!
...also, NO BALL ENDS! Just asking for problems. Make sure tools are well seated. Very impressed that poster dealt with front with standard Allen Wrench.
My rear bolt shaft slipped out and lost shifting capability at approx. 12k miles what a pain it was to mess with it when you have lower fairing. So it seems that the shaft or the link was stripped b/c after tightening it still slipped. I had to get a visegrip and clamp it to the blade and kick it forward and backward to get me home. Very disappointed with HD for a while with many other issues.
When I first got my bike it had the front and rear shift levers. At a light, for some reason my boot got caught between the levers, I could not get my boot out and I went down with bike. Anyway, I took off the rear lever and that solved the problem for me. If you ever decide to take your rear lever off Harley sells a cap which slides onto the end of the shaft hiding the splines for a cleaner look.
Will To Power I've taken my rear off for longer distance comfort. I created a bushing to cover the splines as I placed thr front shifter on the outer most portion of the spine. Bushing then sits in between.
you are a good man and a great biker. thanks for this, i had to tow to the dealer today for this same issue, fuckn harleys
Sorry to hear about the issue. Definitely something to keep an eye on.
Had this issue more than once put bailing wire on it for a while until i chamged the pin after changing the pin just had the same problem again im assuming now because i didnt take the bolt all the way out on the back to make sure it sits in that groove dont i feel dumb
Great video! Thanks. I was just wondering when bolting the shifters back on, do they have torque specs? or just hand tight with loctite?
I just hand tighten then 1/4 turn more with a wrench. Torque wrenches aren't necessary for this.
I just rode from Miami to Austin, TX. 70 miles from Austin i had the same issue. I tried to fix it on the side of the road. 30 miles afterwards, the whole thing was gone. The inner arm, with toe shifter and heel shifter. Do you know the name of that inner arm or do you have a link where I can get it, please? Thank you so much for the great video. Subscribing 👌🏼
Very helpful video, thanks for that. Any idea why harley have discontinued the heal shifter
I'm not to be honest. Had mine off for a few years and like the leg room on longer rides
Fukn awesome bro had the same issue on my glide thought i needed a puller take the bolts right out....on it !!!👍❤.....PS check the linkage on the back spline too....no play 0...mine had like 1/16 wiggle not good tighten that puppy up too bro!! totally l;ost shifting limped her home in first ...........thanks cheers 🍻❤👍😎
No problem! I'm currently testing a beer can trick -- cut a small portion and placed it inside the shifter arm, to hopefully give it a bit more bite. We'll see -- going to pull it and see how it's doing before a large trip. With that said, travel w/ wire and zip ties! Might need 'em.
Righty tighty lefty loosey
wow…. this happened to you but you didn’t know the bolts HAVE to be completely removed?? There is no other way. And hopefully by now you realized you also need to change that OEM shift rod with one that uses Heim joints
Encountered this same issue during my solo ride from Singapore to Phuket, Thailand. During the 2800km ride, the screw came loose 3 times. Just glad it didn't come off when I was riding in the pitch dark conditions in Thailand. I do have a question... does the screws need to be replaced, considering it has worn off. Also, does the connecting shaft needs to be replaced as well? Thanks a million for the video and reply. Cheers!
Daniel Mah I didn't feel the need to replace mine. It clearly grips on the threads so just applied a liberal amount of thread lock. Well, and regular inspection.
You should change those two bushings while you're in there.... Whole assembly will start rattling soon. They're 5 bucks.
I only found out that there were bushings in the casing housing from another CZcams video. After replacing the pedal shaft, it was still loose.
good video,,,, but I don't think you could get the bolt in if the groove is lined up with the bolt, as you suggested it was,,.
the bolt would run into the shaft,..... hence is why you have to take the bolts all the way out,...
Hey Jonathan, I’d forgotten you’d made this video and I experienced the problem again today in the middle of nowhere. Splines are stripped after the shaft was replaced, bolts were torqued to spec and blue locktite was used this winter. I’m not impressed. Looking at designing a better solution. I’ll let you know what I end up doing.
For sure Mark! Pretty telling as this video never was intended to reach such a large audience, though after putting it up it's at 22.8k views! Definitely seems to suggest this is a pretty wide reaching issue. Interesting to hear the grease fitting part didn't help. I'm checking mine tomorrow as I go over the bike so it'll be interesting to see what mine looks like (try to inspect mine @ oil changes and I'm doing my oil change here in a week or so).
The shaft is harder than the shifter legs, sounds like the toe or heal shifter splines were also damaged, hope you checked them b4 reinstall or its going to happen again pretty soon even if the bolts are torqued to specs. Noce thing is its an easy fix
Lube the shaft before reinstall !😎
Rev Big D what lube?
Jonathan Holen a little wheel bearing grease!
I seldom leave comments, however, I wonder if a longer bolt going all the way through and then secured with a lock nut might help.
At any rate frequent (critical?) checks seem prudent. Had no idea alloys used contained oatmeal and jello.
I doubt it'd help. It might but it's usually the teeth that strip causing it to loosen. If you try it definitely let me know!
Hi ! I wouldn't put a longer bolt because it might stick out too far and hit the side of the block , then it won't make , engage the shifter all the way forward enough to put it in gear . . Sometimes people have that exact problem because they, someone put the wrong size bolt, so if your having problems maybe getting it in neutral or something , you might want to check to see if that might be your or someone else's problem ? 😊
I hope you did the other one to
The only thing I'd do different is replace the bolts cheap insurance
Not a bad idea at all
Quick question.. how much play do you get? do you get any platy at all? talking about the shaft and shifters as a whole unit. I am getting some play on mine that's why I ask. Thank you.
I get some... But not much. More so now as I've taken off the heel shifter so I've added some rubber spacers to tighten it up.
FYI: if u ever get any wobble of the shaft in the primary case tube/hole, there are metal bushings (shifter shaft bushings) in there that can be replaced. Check YT for more info on replacing those with a JIMS tool. Cheaper than going to stealer 😉👍 Also, if u ever have any issues with the shifter sticking, remove the shaft like you did in the video, and clean the shaft and tube out, and add a little anti-seize on the shaft, and reassemble 👍
Make sure the rear lever is tight too
Yep, definitely another that can come loose
A little WD 40 to get that onto the spline ?
bolt wont fully seat unless its in the channel... the bolt keeps the lever(S) from sliding off the shaft. the splines keep the lever(S) in position.
biggest issue, heavy boot shifting will wear the splines off and let the levers spin freely. 49k miles on my 09 ultra and never had an issue with the shifting
Phil Severino very true! Best to check and tighten them as you go. Just redid mine on my last oil change.
Jonathan Holen
This opened my eyes. It was very informative. Where did you find the torque specifications for the bolts? Thank you for the information.
What torque do you use for inner lever clamp bolt 3/16 ? 24-30Nm ? thx !
I've got Torque wrenches but didn't use it on it. I just go about 1/4-1/2 turn more after hand tight.
Jonathan Holen ... and blue loctite 🕺🏻
CLIFFORD band-aid!!!
I've got kids, haha
Better with both shifters cause you only shift down for all gears.
If the bolt isn’t lined up with the groove….. it won’t go in?? You can’t even turn the bolt into the threads? The bolt would simply fall out. IMHO
this happened to me 2 days ago lol
When shooting a video..take it off first...then put a t back on for camera
I can't get my levers off...they dont just slide off like in this video...I already took the bolts out it still wont come out....please help
What year bike? Guessing they're just seized up. Or someone did something prior to you owning the bike.
@@jfuente I got it just needed wd40
@@gerrybrown2552 good to hear!
Some of these people should knot be touching spanner’s it’s painful to watch them yes the threads are damaged you’d did knot have it in line when you forst the bolt in can’t witch no more
So I know this is an old conversation but ok just my two cents why would you reinstall worn bolts that have already failed also you have a steel shaft inside cast aluminum lever spinning. Ummm gee think I would check the inside of that lever now my fix disassemble everything drill through lever and dimple the shat then tap the lever and insert set screw to set inside dimple on shaft make sure use blue locktight
We're clearly not all as smart as you. I like the idea though, would have been a much more thorough and permanent fix!
@@jfuente I deserved that was having a bad day to add to the linkage issues make sure the rear one on top of tranny is tight if that one loosens up $$$$ have to pull tranny apart to replace shaft need long ball Allen wrench to reach it
@@chrisstockwell9235 it's all good. We all have them! Good suggestions tho as I previously mentioned
Who are these people that are riding today?
no you really should take the bolt all the way off.....
Mark it before you take it apart...
Definitely a good thing to do!
You found the problem but why would you even suggest or consider putting it back together with just loctite unless it was an emergency repair! Plus you should have edited out the part that you said "you don't need to take the bolts completely out of the shift arms"? Totally amature and unresearched. Spreading misinformation and adding to the frustration of all who would attempt this based only on this video. Thumbs down. I know this is a very old video but I'll bet you've had to replace everything that you "repaired".
Feel free to make a professional edit and correct my misinformation. CZcams used to be a place of amateurs... Most guys aren't doing this for a profession.
U talk wayyyyyy to much. Less talk, more work!
You need to take your bike to a good wrench hand and stop working on your own before you hurt your self.
A little wheel bearing grease on the shaft (not the splines) will help it shift like new.
Stop talking and get to the point
Just think, you'll never get your time back. Thanks for the comment.
@@jfuente it was a great video but the first five min where absolutely pointless