Hey man, I just purchased a 2015 Toyota Corolla and came across your channel. Please keep making content with your 2014 Corolla. Im planning on doing all the work on my corolla, and your videos will help so much. Thanks!!!
Thanks for amazing tutoring video. After watching your video anybody can follow this procedure, even those who never hold a wrench in their hands!!! The video combines excellent instructions with Hollywood picture quality. Your video has the best picture of Water Pump changing on CZcams!!! All others showing all process from the top of the engine, when the view from underneath of passenger's fender opens clear unobstructed bottom bolts of the Water Pump. It is too bad, I can put only one thumb up - you deserve three. From now, I will be watching all your videos. A few things to clarify: usually gaskets recommended not install dry, but apply some oil around, or in this case coolant around it for the better sealing. It won't hurt but might help in my opinion. Also, in another video, I saw the following torques for Water Pump - 2 -19ft/lbs., 3 - 18ft/lbs. For me 3 - 15ft/lbs. makes more sense, but could you clarify that it comes from Toyota requirement. I will be changing Water Pump on Corolla S, 2009, but I don't see any difference. Thanks again. I just love your videos!!! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I just clarified torques for Corolla 2009 myself: A - 19ft/lbs. , B - 18ft/lbs.
Thanks, glad the videos were helpful! I posted the torque for 2012 & later, so yes your torque specs are different because the pump is just slightly different. Gaskets are designed to prevent infiltration of liquids, and a liquid being already there could cause it to leak eventually. Where did you see a recommendation to "not install dry" ? I've done lots of gaskets in the past, and never "lubricated" any. I actually work hard to make sure everything is perfectly clean, and not wet.. and especially not oily. Some gaskets may need a RTV sealant, but sometimes even that can cause it to leak. See this page from Fel-pro: www.felpro.com/technical/tecblogs/how-to-properly-use-rtv.html first words are "Clean and Dry" . Unless there are specific instructions to add anything to a gasket, I wouldn't do it. The manual advises that the surfaces should be clean, see below: Installation 1. Align protrusion of a new gasket with cutout in timing chain cover sub-assembly and install gasket in groove of timing chain cover sub-assembly, Fig. 3. Be sure to clean contact surfaces.
@@CleverFix Thanks a lot CleverFix. Actually, idea of lubricating the gasket I got from one of the videos. But that guy was not much dedicated as yourself. You are right, on all others video advice was cleaning well the surrounding area. I wanted to hear it from you, and you just proved it - you are very knowledgeable of the subject that you are tutoring. Thanks a lot for the link. You helped me to do it right way.
@@stanislav9608 Glad to help! In general, I would always read a manual, even after watching a video. If you live in a big city, check with your Library, they will usually have access to car repair manuals online, in the digital content section. Videos help to get the general idea, but they're not always perfectly correct. With car repair, things have to be perfect, or they will eventually need to be done again. I have plenty of experience fixing almost every part of the car, and it took a while to do things properly. For example, I used to change brakes, but I wasn't lubricating all the parts shown in the manual, because I didn't have a manual. So the manual is very important. Experience is important too, for example caliper boots dry out, let water in, and allow the pin to rust, so I now change them every few years, but it took a while to figure that out. Some general rules are, every oil wear out even if it's "lifetime" and same goes for rubber, whether it's rubber bushings for engine mounts, or door seals. Rust proofing is super important too, if you have an 09 Corolla you probably should do it every year.. I prefer RustCheck, Krown wears out too fast for me.
@@CleverFix Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience, going even beyond the Water Pump replacement. I agree that manuals are very important, but doing something first time, I prefer first to see where the location of the part is, what tools are required and what level of difficulties I might experience. After watching the video, I can determine if I can handle the job myself. That is why for myself video stands on first place, and later I start looking for specific recommendations from the manufacturer. This time I am doing the following preventative maintenance on Corolla 2009: 1. Replacing Water Pump and Serpentine Belt 2. Thermostat 3. Coolant Temperature Sensor 4. Upper Radiator Tee hose connector 5. Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses Nothing is wrong with all these parts, but the vehicle is 16 yrs. old (purchased in 2008), and it is only matter of time when these components start to fail. Car has only 150 000 miles (240 000km) and I would like to keep it on the road for another 5-7 yrs. Do you know what exactly attracted my attention in your video???.... CLEANNESS IN ENGINE BAY. I had same approach as you - before my hands touch anything under the hood, I wash the exterior and clean everything in the engine bay. Only next day, I am ready to do maintenance. And this applies to any job on the vehicle. Even before just changing the engine oil and filter - car has to be washed and cleaned from inside out. I have been doing it for 40 yrs. and for me it is the same as washing the hands before eating. Regarding the rustproofing, I have good experience using the KROWN. I have been using it on 4 vehicles (Honda Accord 1996, Corolla 2009, Santa Fe 2014, Lexus 2015) from 1996. I am buying the Krown product in spray cans and apply it 1-2 times a year. No one of these vehicles have any rust on the body (fenders, doors, bottom panels or trunk), despite I am living in rust belt area in Toronto. Honda was sold after 18 yrs. of use absolutely rustles!!! Thanks again for your outstanding video, clear instructions and brilliant camera quality view!!!
@@stanislav9608 Sounds like you've got it completely covered with those parts, I'd replace them too at that age. I try to keep it clean, yes, on the outside I use Klasse All in and One and then Klasse Sealant. The water beads for 5-6 months, and the finish still looks close to new after 10 years. I think there are new ceramic coatings available now that last longer, but Klasse is working so I'll stick to that. In regards to spraying Krown twice a year, yes that will absolutely work, but I'd suggest to try the RustCheck green spray (Gel). You will find you spray it once, and even 3-4 years later, it's still there!! I just checked some hidden spots recently, it's still there after 4-5 years! For bottom of doors, someone gave me a tip to apply grease with a rubber glove, so I smudged on some Lucas red and tacky and it's still there after 2 years. It dried and dirt stuck to it, so it's just a thin black layer of protection, but nobody can see that, since it's at the bottom. I'm going to put some on the bottom of the rocker panels now that I know it works. You still need to spray on the inside also, since it can rust from inside out too. I was going to do a video with all this "maintenance" stuff I do, maybe I'll film it slowly and then put it all together. I'm using the Toyota touch-up pen for chips, and even a few year old touchups are still as good as when I made them. Yeah Toronto is terrible, I'm east of TO,.. The worst effect is on calipers, and brake/fuel/power steering lines. I've had to do lots of repairs due to rust. I'm going to also try "Cosmoline RP-342" , it's on Amazon. It sprays like oil and dries to the touch, but it's not paint, it's a "wax" coating. Seems interesting. Thanks for watching, and for the feedback!
I'm wondering; how many km your 2014 Corolla do have to need a water pump replacement? My 2014 only have 106,000km with, I do guess, the original coolant. Keep coming your verry valuable videos, regards
They should last about 160,000KM, but may fail early. The bearing on mine was still in good shape, but the pulley got all those deposits from my loose serpentine belt, and I'd rather not take the chance up to 160,000. Having to pay for coolant all over again and do all that work again is not worth it, especially if it goes in the winter. The Aisin pump is OEM quality and cheap enough that I would do this every time I change the coolant, just to be sure. I used to wait for problems to happen, but I'm starting to proactively replace parts, so I don't get stuck without a car. Unfortunately everything fails eventually, and if a water pump fails and starts leaking, the car won't be going far.
They should last about 100,000miles, but may fail early, and may also last much longer, depending on luck. When it's failing, it could start to leak coolant, so I did mine early to make sure I don't get to that stage.
@@kcalderon03 Wow.. well, there must be more to it than luck,.. looking at it scientifically, I think the temperatures it experiences, as well as engine RPM, and coolant quality will make a difference. Lots of driving in traffic on hot days will probably wear it out faster, and not changing the coolant on time will also be a big one. A lot of components on a car wear out more with age and traffic than they do with mileage. A 2-3 year old car with 140K miles will be in way better shape mechanically than a 10 year old car with 140K miles. Everything "rubbery" dries out and cracks over time, like seals and hoses, and the lubrication in sealed bearings breaks down with age too. Thermal cycling wears out components a lot also. Most engine wear happens when the car is started, on the first few seconds, and that could be the same for the pump as well, especially at very very cold temperature. It's very difficult to use those factors to determine when to change the pump though.
It will usually last a long time, even 100,000 miles or more. Signs of failure is slightly leaking coolant, a squeaky noise, and bearing play.. so most people actually end up changing it when it's close to failing rather than changing it ahead of time. It's not that expensive, so I don't mind changing it along with the coolant and that assures me that I won't have an issue on long trips. In case it fails. Changing the coolant on time will help the pump last longer, the interval for the coolant is 100,000miles or 10yr whichever comes first.
If you enjoyed the video, please give it a *thumbs up* 👍. Your support helps me create more content and is *greatly appreciated* .
Hey man, I just purchased a 2015 Toyota Corolla and came across your channel. Please keep making content with your 2014 Corolla. Im planning on doing all the work on my corolla, and your videos will help so much. Thanks!!!
Nice, congrats on your purchase, good choice! More videos to come!
This is the best corolla water pump change video I've seen! EXCELLENT camera work!! Clear descriptions! Thanks!!
Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
Thanks for amazing tutoring video. After watching your video anybody can follow this procedure, even those who never hold a wrench in their hands!!! The video combines excellent instructions with Hollywood picture quality.
Your video has the best picture of Water Pump changing on CZcams!!! All others showing all process from the top of the engine, when the view from underneath of passenger's fender opens clear unobstructed bottom bolts of the Water Pump.
It is too bad, I can put only one thumb up - you deserve three. From now, I will be watching all your videos.
A few things to clarify: usually gaskets recommended not install dry, but apply some oil around, or in this case coolant around it for the better sealing. It won't hurt but might help in my opinion.
Also, in another video, I saw the following torques for Water Pump - 2 -19ft/lbs., 3 - 18ft/lbs. For me 3 - 15ft/lbs. makes more sense, but could you clarify that it comes from Toyota requirement.
I will be changing Water Pump on Corolla S, 2009, but I don't see any difference.
Thanks again. I just love your videos!!!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I just clarified torques for Corolla 2009 myself: A - 19ft/lbs. , B - 18ft/lbs.
Thanks, glad the videos were helpful! I posted the torque for 2012 & later, so yes your torque specs are different because the pump is just slightly different.
Gaskets are designed to prevent infiltration of liquids, and a liquid being already there could cause it to leak eventually.
Where did you see a recommendation to "not install dry" ?
I've done lots of gaskets in the past, and never "lubricated" any. I actually work hard to make sure everything is perfectly clean, and not wet.. and especially not oily. Some gaskets may need a RTV sealant, but sometimes even that can cause it to leak.
See this page from Fel-pro:
www.felpro.com/technical/tecblogs/how-to-properly-use-rtv.html
first words are "Clean and Dry" .
Unless there are specific instructions to add anything to a gasket, I wouldn't do it. The manual advises that the surfaces should be clean, see below:
Installation
1. Align protrusion of a new gasket with cutout in timing chain cover sub-assembly and install gasket in groove of timing chain cover sub-assembly, Fig. 3. Be sure to clean contact surfaces.
@@CleverFix Thanks a lot CleverFix. Actually, idea of lubricating the gasket I got from one of the videos. But that guy was not much dedicated as yourself. You are right, on all others video advice was cleaning well the surrounding area. I wanted to hear it from you, and you just proved it - you are very knowledgeable of the subject that you are tutoring.
Thanks a lot for the link. You helped me to do it right way.
@@stanislav9608 Glad to help! In general, I would always read a manual, even after watching a video. If you live in a big city, check with your Library, they will usually have access to car repair manuals online, in the digital content section.
Videos help to get the general idea, but they're not always perfectly correct. With car repair, things have to be perfect, or they will eventually need to be done again. I have plenty of experience fixing almost every part of the car, and it took a while to do things properly. For example, I used to change brakes, but I wasn't lubricating all the parts shown in the manual, because I didn't have a manual. So the manual is very important. Experience is important too, for example caliper boots dry out, let water in, and allow the pin to rust, so I now change them every few years, but it took a while to figure that out. Some general rules are, every oil wear out even if it's "lifetime" and same goes for rubber, whether it's rubber bushings for engine mounts, or door seals. Rust proofing is super important too, if you have an 09 Corolla you probably should do it every year.. I prefer RustCheck, Krown wears out too fast for me.
@@CleverFix Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience, going even beyond the Water Pump replacement.
I agree that manuals are very important, but doing something first time, I prefer first to see where the location of the part is, what tools are required and what level of difficulties I might experience.
After watching the video, I can determine if I can handle the job myself. That is why for myself video stands on first place, and later I start looking for specific recommendations from the manufacturer.
This time I am doing the following preventative maintenance on Corolla 2009:
1. Replacing Water Pump and Serpentine Belt
2. Thermostat
3. Coolant Temperature Sensor
4. Upper Radiator Tee hose connector
5. Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses
Nothing is wrong with all these parts, but the vehicle is 16 yrs. old (purchased in 2008), and it is only matter of time when these components start to fail. Car has only 150 000 miles (240 000km) and I would like to keep it on the road for another 5-7 yrs.
Do you know what exactly attracted my attention in your video???.... CLEANNESS IN ENGINE BAY.
I had same approach as you - before my hands touch anything under the hood, I wash the exterior and clean everything in the engine bay. Only next day, I am ready to do maintenance.
And this applies to any job on the vehicle. Even before just changing the engine oil and filter - car has to be washed and cleaned from inside out. I have been doing it for 40 yrs. and for me it is the same as washing the hands before eating.
Regarding the rustproofing, I have good experience using the KROWN. I have been using it on 4 vehicles (Honda Accord 1996, Corolla 2009, Santa Fe 2014, Lexus 2015) from 1996.
I am buying the Krown product in spray cans and apply it 1-2 times a year. No one of these vehicles have any rust on the body (fenders, doors, bottom panels or trunk), despite I am living in rust belt area in Toronto. Honda was sold after 18 yrs. of use absolutely rustles!!!
Thanks again for your outstanding video, clear instructions and brilliant camera quality view!!!
@@stanislav9608 Sounds like you've got it completely covered with those parts, I'd replace them too at that age. I try to keep it clean, yes, on the outside I use Klasse All in and One and then Klasse Sealant. The water beads for 5-6 months, and the finish still looks close to new after 10 years. I think there are new ceramic coatings available now that last longer, but Klasse is working so I'll stick to that. In regards to spraying Krown twice a year, yes that will absolutely work, but I'd suggest to try the RustCheck green spray (Gel). You will find you spray it once, and even 3-4 years later, it's still there!! I just checked some hidden spots recently, it's still there after 4-5 years!
For bottom of doors, someone gave me a tip to apply grease with a rubber glove, so I smudged on some Lucas red and tacky and it's still there after 2 years. It dried and dirt stuck to it, so it's just a thin black layer of protection, but nobody can see that, since it's at the bottom. I'm going to put some on the bottom of the rocker panels now that I know it works. You still need to spray on the inside also, since it can rust from inside out too. I was going to do a video with all this "maintenance" stuff I do, maybe I'll film it slowly and then put it all together.
I'm using the Toyota touch-up pen for chips, and even a few year old touchups are still as good as when I made them. Yeah Toronto is terrible, I'm east of TO,.. The worst effect is on calipers, and brake/fuel/power steering lines. I've had to do lots of repairs due to rust. I'm going to also try "Cosmoline RP-342" , it's on Amazon. It sprays like oil and dries to the touch, but it's not paint, it's a "wax" coating. Seems interesting.
Thanks for watching, and for the feedback!
Just replaced mine because of your video!
Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Good job 👍❤
Thank you! Cheers!
Good job sir wstching from kuwait
I'm wondering; how many km your 2014 Corolla do have to need a water pump replacement? My 2014 only have 106,000km with, I do guess, the original coolant. Keep coming your verry valuable videos, regards
They should last about 160,000KM, but may fail early. The bearing on mine was still in good shape, but the pulley got all those deposits from my loose serpentine belt, and I'd rather not take the chance up to 160,000. Having to pay for coolant all over again and do all that work again is not worth it, especially if it goes in the winter. The Aisin pump is OEM quality and cheap enough that I would do this every time I change the coolant, just to be sure. I used to wait for problems to happen, but I'm starting to proactively replace parts, so I don't get stuck without a car. Unfortunately everything fails eventually, and if a water pump fails and starts leaking, the car won't be going far.
Good job with the video
Thank you!
What about thermostat?
How often should a water pump be changed on this particular vehicle?
They should last about 100,000miles, but may fail early, and may also last much longer, depending on luck. When it's failing, it could start to leak coolant, so I did mine early to make sure I don't get to that stage.
@@CleverFix Well I guess ive been lucky since I have nearly 140K miles on my corolla. Thanks!
@@kcalderon03 Wow.. well, there must be more to it than luck,.. looking at it scientifically, I think the temperatures it experiences, as well as engine RPM, and coolant quality will make a difference. Lots of driving in traffic on hot days will probably wear it out faster, and not changing the coolant on time will also be a big one. A lot of components on a car wear out more with age and traffic than they do with mileage. A 2-3 year old car with 140K miles will be in way better shape mechanically than a 10 year old car with 140K miles. Everything "rubbery" dries out and cracks over time, like seals and hoses, and the lubrication in sealed bearings breaks down with age too. Thermal cycling wears out components a lot also. Most engine wear happens when the car is started, on the first few seconds, and that could be the same for the pump as well, especially at very very cold temperature. It's very difficult to use those factors to determine when to change the pump though.
Would it be a problem if I dont use a torque wrench?
Tightening the bolts too much will strip the thread, and tightening too little can cause a leak, so this is why I always use one.
How often should the water pump be changed?
It will usually last a long time, even 100,000 miles or more. Signs of failure is slightly leaking coolant, a squeaky noise, and bearing play.. so most people actually end up changing it when it's close to failing rather than changing it ahead of time. It's not that expensive, so I don't mind changing it along with the coolant and that assures me that I won't have an issue on long trips. In case it fails. Changing the coolant on time will help the pump last longer, the interval for the coolant is 100,000miles or 10yr whichever comes first.
@@CleverFix For the first change it's 10 years, but it's 5 years subsequently.
100-150k miles at first and then maybe 75-100k miles after. But every car and pump is different. So you never know
Please send me the drip free funnel link
I have added it in the video description for this video. Thanks.