Building a Fireproof Safe (pt. 1 of 2)
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- čas přidán 5. 12. 2021
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In this video I build a double walled fire proof safe with a four pin locking mechanism.
Justin, I hope you come back soon with some more interesting content. I hope the farm life hasn't taken you away from being an amazing content creator and engineer. Really want to see where you get to with the RV, or what your wife has designed that you have milled out of wood or steel. I'm sure there's a bunch of subscribers out there that miss your content.
Yes, I miss him too. Great content. Hope all is well.
Was thinking the same, but if you look at his videos, he does take extended breaks every now and then. Hope all is well!
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Yea I just came to his page myself to make sure I haven't missed a video or that I was unsubscribed for some reason. that has happened to me in the past on another channel I enjoy.
what happned to him? he is offline almost 6month and his insta links is dead.
Hope your videos come back soon, miss watching them I've watched all your videos more than once
When the linkage came together, it was simply beautiful. Well done.
Indeed. That mechanical activation was really sweet.
Having both an engineering and security background some thoughts:
- engineering is good, but you could have decoupled the metal on the outside from the inside. See how modern windows are made. So no thermal transfer occurs, or at least not so much.
- maybe add some tabs or a way to secure the safe to the ground (if you don't weld it somewhere to the ground)
Now to the main problem...
- the main reason most of the cheap fireproof safes fail to do their job is not fire proofness - its water proofness. Normally the fire dept. arrives in under 30 minutes so a 60 minute fire proofness is more than enough. But the fire dept. uses mainly water to extinguish fire. Pouring it on for hours. So the documents and most valuables which don't like water are destroyed AFTER the fire by soaking for hours in water.
Added later:
At least we now could get
Part II - making the fireproof safe waterproof !
:)
Would a gasket solve this problem? Maybe packing a fiberglass rope soaked in high temp grease around the ingress points of the handle and lock?
Agreed, Waterproof storage containers within any fire safe are a must. The overlap of waterproofing gasket materials and high temperature resistance is pretty small.
Being an engineer, do you have a solution for waterproofing? I’m guessing rubber seals would melt. Is there another product out there that could be used? Thanks
@@robertrusso877 melting is ok ;) it seals even better. There are many silicone gaskets which will be happy to meet the requirements even with the safe starting to glow red.
@@kschleic9053 in fact it is not so easy . If you read instructions on good fireproof safes (the ones for documet use aka paper) they specifically tell you not to put plastic sheets in them. The plastic melts before paper gets dark from temperature. Then the documents are also done..
Tip: put lipstick on the end of the locking pins to mark where to drill your holes. Great build any way you slice it. I would've drilled holes in the bottom so it can be bolted to the floor. They will often take the whole safe and leave.
It's always a good day when there's a new Rainfall Project. It's especially serendipitous today as it's raining and dreary here. Excellent work!
In Cape Town too! Perfect for stormy weather 👌
Guyz white material is ceramic blanket? What is it?
A new Rainfall Projects video is a great way to start the day. Thanks.
Having watched for years and knowing your abilities, skills, tools and ingenuity, I'm still amazed at how easy you made that look! Well done! Kudos to your photographer too!
Best quote I saw on another channel "I love working with metal ... the glue dries so quickly"
Are you going to add fire rope or something as a fireproof gasket on the door?
Yeah. also to keep the smoke out. Even if you keep the fire out, all that smoke still usually ruins everything.
I was thinking you could use an oven door gasket from a large oven, or possibly buy the exact length you need from an appliance repair supplier.
I think there's a type of gasket made just for safes that expands with heat. Could be wrong but i remember someone telling me that.
Good point. Possibly the door gasket for fireplaces would be a good option as they are exposed to extreme heat or the gasket for a kiln would work.
Would've been cool if you had made the backing plate with plexiglass so you could see the linkages. A+ project, all the same.
Perhaps some windows, but would have been difficult to add the shaft collar support on the backing plate if it were plexy.
@@ixamraxi That's a fair point.
Yes. That is the most beautiful part of the safe that has lots of linkage.
Glass, plexiglass or polycarbonate would be a good idea but after a certain extended period of time to extreme heat they would eventually break. Learned it from a few fire fighters.
@@jasonlazore497 I guess it depends on how long the safe would be subjected to the fire. Assuming they aren't too far out in the boonies, the fire department will have put out the fire before the internal temperature of the safe got too high. Glass would be the better choice, I would think, since breaking from the heat wouldn't necessarily damage anything else inside the safe. Plexi melting all over would be a mess and a half.
the masking tape idea is great - use some lipstick on the pins = close the door and it will mark the tape. i have used this to mark drywall for outlet boxes -works great
I know a locksmith who uses this technique too.
Graphite will work too
So you carry a lipstick in your toolbox? They would laugh at the jobsite.
Just kidding, it's a great idea.
When you where drilling with the magnetic drill, made me think of those safecracker scenes in movies.
Three things in order, just observations, not critique:
1. in a fire proof safe the core is decoupled from the outer skin, can't help that now tho.
2. the handle needs to either be a weak link itself (small pin and only a small portion of the shaft going out) or a weak link inside, otherwise it can be used against the mechanism
3. fireproof safes fail for the most unlikely reasons, which is when the fire department arrives, their concern is to stop the fire, not save your property (or better expressed, they're not specific about what's saved, they're specific about being safe whilst stopping the fire, saving lives being their biggest concern, theirs and that of the potential victims), so it needs to be water proofed, which means you need a gasket, which itself needs to be fire proof and water proof (yup, tall order).
Source: i used to work with a safe company's engineer, learnt a few things from him.
Regarding point no. 3 - that's actually pretty easy. You can get RTV Silicone gaskets pretty cheaply now.
But it would be extremely interesting to stress test this safe. I think it might hold surprisingly well.
1 This is not a problem for many valuables, but if a person is storing something that needs to be shielded further, a lock box inside the safe would provide an additional layer of heat protection, as well as providing the convenience of sorting the items inside the safe, if he required even more protection he could also line the inside with ceramic plates, so while conduction is a problem, this is a problem that can still be helped.
2. This is unnecessary for this kind of personal safe, there's little sense in him making a safe that he needs to destroy to recover the valuables inside. His goal seems primarily to protect the items inside from things like fire or being misplaced, he's not trying to prevent the cast of oceans 11 from stealing what's inside.
3. This also shouldn't be a problem for most valuables. Things which are at risk of water damage can be stored inside heat resistant waterproof containers (waterproof silicone containers, for example)
The point is only that these are not insurmountable problems, and most of the issues, which granted are valid concerns, can be overcome fairly readily.
“This is the Lockpicking Lawyer, and today we’re going to be taking a look at a fireproof safe built by a radish farmer.” 😂
Jk, amazing work!
Lawyer showed how to open the safe lock in video number 1001
@@zmyrus Yeah but that's a robot lock picker that takes 8-30 hours to open this one. My guess is radish farmer comes out with laser weapon in that amount of time: secures gold, bills and giant diamond, apprehends villain, ties to fork lift, takes to authorities since he's a pretty solid dude and doesn't seem inclined to vigilante justice.
LPL did say he's skilled at these types of combo locks. I wonder how long it would take or if he would just insert a credit card behind the bolts or pull off some other kind of side attack.
I was looking precisely for this comment. 😂😂
I imagine the simplest way is just to brute force the wheel and snap off the locking part. Or, of course, just drilling it out entirely.
hahaha....yeah, bullet proof safe with a lock you can open in under on minute
Something about your videos makes me feel proud to be a country boy builder. Nothing better than getting inspiration from the way you think, build, and communicate over a Saturday morning coffee. Hope all is well out there my friend 🤠
Very nice! Although it appears that the locking mechanism is locked by the S&G lock bar. That’s fine normally but since your handle is fairly rigid it would likely be possible to force the mechanism open with a long bar.
I believe most safes deal with this by having their handle be the weak link. If any attempts to force the handle open the handle just slips in the mechanism.
I’m far for an expert but hopefully someone else here can add to this comment with a suggested fix. Maybe some kind of plastic joint that would slip. I enjoyed the video, keep up the great work!
Oh, that’s what I wondered too. I feared that you could put so much stress on the mechanism by turning the wheel by force that it breaks, but I would have never thought of using a bar to my advantage. I really need to step up my robbery skills.
I had the same thoughts. Often they have that mechanism setup with a ratio so 100lbs of force would only transfer 10lbs to the lock handle. I would recommend welding the bolt in the center of the handle so someone can’t just grab a socket and breaker bar and get in quickly. The rounded weld would keep a socket from grabbing
Yup, safe handles are either pinned with a weak nail (kinda like a shaft key) with a small diameter and a small soft metal nob sticking out, so you can't just put pliers on that should you remove the handle, or, as you said inside the safe door, there's a weak link. I saw a 1970's safe that was disabled because someone levered on the handle to get it unstuck, and the broken link was a piece of hammered copper (work hardened, which made it brittle), ingenious little thing.
Awesome point. Given the excellent system he as already designed that would maybe be a difficult adjustment. May I suggest an options that might work well with what has already been constructed?
Maybe adjust it by using a brass rod for the main shaft attached to the wheel and attaching the main internal linkage via a shallow set screw into the brass rod so that it would strip where the set screw is attached and spin inside the linkage if significant force is applied. Although there are many designs of breakaways using weak pins specifically on the external wheel. Many would still leave a solid mental shaft that could be turned with a pipe wrench or such. Ideally you would like the failure to be internal to the mechanism.
Yep, his unlocking mechanism looks robust enough to smash the lock with ease, the lock needed to be mounted further away from the mechanism pivot.
your know how and skills are quite remarkable, what a vast amount of knowledge do you have for all these projects , its really insane to find such a qualitative series on youtube! Very rare. Keep up the great work ! I love how the barn looks
Thanks for taking the time to film and post this. I haven't seen any of your movies in a while and I have to say I'm super impressed at your fabrication skills
Hi Justin, i hope everthing is OK . We miss you and your beautifull work.
You're on a different level, young man. Always fun to watch. Happy holidays.
Beautiful build and a pleasure to watch!
Nice build, and I really like the door's linkage. Future Tip - when you have to locate pin locations like that, you can "soot" the ends of the pin with your torch, or a daub of your wife's lipstick, to make sure you have a clear, clean impression. If you use your wife's lipstick, make sure you don't tell her you borrowed it. Wives do not take kindly to such things.
Also, the fire rating drops precipitously when you don't insulate the door or use a fire seal around the door. All that insulation on the body is for naught if you don't seal the door and insulate it every which way you can. Some 1/4" drywall/gypsum can be layered in there, making sure to get under the linkage mechanism, and some Kaowool blanket can fill the voids without worry about tangling around the mechanism. The door seals are available COTS, and help to seal things when the heat rises, but also give a more finished appearance. Without those two details, the same isn't resistant to heat/fire no matter how much insulation you put in the hollow core of the body.
Really ambitious project man your a good fabricator......im a welder also and for finding your locking bolt holes locations I use this stuff called dykem high spot blue its a non drying blue die and works great for stuff like this machinists use it to find high spots between mating parts just smear it on.
Can’t wait for the next rainfall projects video! Definitely have gone back just to make sure I didn’t miss an upload
Nice to see I’m not the only welder who uses stencils 12:23
That safe is super easy to open. Just place a metal bar on the wheel and you'll have so much leverage that the pin on the combinator will fall apart. But, since it's in the shop maybe it's faster using the plasma cutter.
Incorrect! The set screw connecting the handle to the spindle will slip first. It's an intentional weak point acting as a clutch. Most safes are designed like that.
That was some really cool metal work. It's not everyday I see someone build a safe, a fireproof safe as well, from scratch! Talk about practical and useful. It's kind of eery how easy you made the process look. But, I think the process is a physical representation of the designer's logic and rationale in approaching a solution to a particular problem or design goal. Your fabrication is simple, effective and minimalist. Waste not, want not. I see now why farmers need to be self-reliant to stay operational. Excellent presentation and project build!
Great Job! I do recommend to drill holes in the bottom so you can bolt it to the ground, one other suggestion it to put the door opening side in a corner so someone cant try to pry it open.
Excellent video, as usual! Whenever I want something cool, my first inclination isn't to build one, so I'm always impressed when you do.
Man I absolutely love your projects and the quality of your videos. I do however long for the farming videos you used to do. That machinery is both impressive and hypnotizing.
Gotta come back and rewatch Pt 1 for the millionth time to make Pt 2 feel extra special.
Really fantastic project.
Always appreciate the workmanship.
Well done.
Wow. Some really precise work there, especially with the nested boxes, and the linkages for the locking mechanism. It even looks good. Great job! [now, going to scroll down, and see ALL of the suggestions that commenters have to improve on your already excellent work--I'm sure there will be dozens of comments about fireproofing, etc., etc.]
I love the folding up of the box. Very efficient technique
There are ceramic studs used to secure kiln insulation. Also: for the locking pins, if they have a flat taper on the side facing out, and a matching ‘D’ shape hole, they will push in when you tighten them. Good to press down on a gasket. The gasket is the same stuff used for oven doors.
Now we wait for the LockPickingLawyer video..... 😉😂🤣👍
It’s a great day when when a rainfall project drops! Good video as usual and I love the safe. Only thing I would’ve done differently (if it were my project) is leave the old paint on the wheel. Loved the patina and character it had - otherwise great work as usual!
Another great project! Thanks!
Absolutely Beautiful!
Awesome work!!!
That was beautiful! Well done!
Some commercial safes use gypsum wall board as insulation. The water chemically bonded to the calcium sulfate absorbs a lot of energy during the heating process.
Had checked on your channel in awhile and was surprised I missed this video! Wonderful content as always!
Beautiful work
now alls ya need is black and gold paint ... and it'll be Choochi👊🏻 well done
Cool project, thanks for sharing!
Amazing work!
That was fun, thanks for sharing!
I am a safe and vault technician. You did an outstanding job on building this safe. Everything you did was well thought out and works well, I am thoroughly impressed. You do have one fatal flaw....you didn't add any relocker device(s). If someone knocks the dial off and punches out the lock with a hammer and punch the lock will no longer prevent the bolt from staying locked. A relocker will fire a bolt blocking the boltwork from moving if the lock was attacked in this fashion.
I’m watching welding videos to learn and see how things are made. I am new to welding and want to build a cabinet smoker. So I searched for a gun safe video since I knew it may be similar. I even thought of studs to hold insulation, lol. This is the same idea I had double wall with insulation in between. Great video! ✌️😎
Very fun and practical build! Would love to see the fireproof-ness put to the test, perhaps build a big bonfire around it and see how quickly the temperature inside increases with a thermocouple.
Been a long time since the last video! hope all is good and looking forward to seeing what you're up to!
Great work as always. Thanks for sharing.
I wanted to see it painted. Great job!
happy to watch you build anything
Excellent as usual!!!
Wow. Thank you for sharing. What an excellent project
Nice.
But, if you build another one...
If you design your door and jambs right, your hinge side pins do not need to move, they can be static. They will catch when your door closes. You can then use your door fulcrums to run top and bottom pins as well as your side pins. More insulation, more insulation, more insulation.
Amazing craftsmanship
This was really cool. It would be neat to see an up close view of how the locking mechanism prevents the wheel from turning.
It is fun to watch and see how you think something out and make it work. Thank you
Excellent work.
That linkage came out excellent! Not to be critical, but you might want to consider adding two vertical pins top and bottom. The way the safe is designed right now makes it prone to entry using a vertical bar in a prying motion. The front door potentially has the ability to fold, even just enough to clear the pins. Having a central pin top and bottom prevents this. That said, I don't suspect you are trying to build a bank grade safe, just enjoying the ability to build what you need. I think it's great how you are willing to try out so many different disciplines
Glad I stumbled onto this video I enjoyed watching this come together. You have an awesome shop as well.
Great video, as always... I seen that you used tape to make the impressions for your pins. Another "tool" that is great for leaving impressions is lipstick. I learned it from an old carpenter about 35 years ago and still use it for projects today. Dark colors for wood work and florescent colors for metal work.
Great project !!!
Very nicely done! Whenever you need to locate a hole for a slide bolt, strike plate or anything else where you can't get to it, use lipstick, it's dead-on.
Excellent work!! I want to try to do that!
That is just Awesome! Good work
16:35 I’d weld up those corners and make the gap tighter so you can’t easily get a pry bar in there.
Just going to say, that is really cool and I really enjoy watching you build things. I find it inspiring to help me create things with my own hands.
Grease on the ends of the bolts opened onto the jamb makes for an excellent mark
Great job
Dude that build was amazing! That linkage system is amazing! You do really good work! 🙌👊
Just discovered you, and in blown away you can actually build an entire safe with locks and pins. So cool
Great Job!!
That’s pretty clean!
Absolutely stellar work! I loved that linkage, and really the entire project exudes a professional level of skill and expertise. I've been in the market for some sort of fireproof safe or lockbox, and thinking about where in the house would be the 'coldest' in a fire, to place it. Also gave some thought to a sort of fireproof closet to put the purchased box in, to increase its time and temp stats. One thing the professional boxes have (that I figure I'd have to duplicate in some fashion in my closet) is an 'intumescent' seal that swells with the heat, since a surprising amount of heat can make it through a metal-on-metal jamb in a house fire. Not sure how you could fabricate or source such a seal, but it might be a good idea to bring the doorjamb crack up closer to the heat resistance of the rest of this very well-built safe. But anyway, kudos! It's a great looking safe!
Wow! That's one of the most interesting videos I have seen on CZcams. You definetely have got loads of knowledge about building stuff. I want to congratulate you for everything you do. Thank you for sharing with us all your experience. Kind regards.
So glad you made this. It's on my list of things to make but haven't gotten around to it yet
Can you do another video or something close up on how the mechanism works from the number dial?
I made a similar type of safe, but ran into an issue. In testing I put a large lever arm on the wheel that you spin and was able to break the combination mechanism. However, you safe is orders and orders of magnitude better than mine. Great job!
Where you at man? I miss your content. Hope all is well.
Hope to see new videos again. You do great work.
The only thing I like about winter is that you have more time to make videos. Lol. Fantastic build.
Another excellent project👍
Awesome safe and that valve handle looks great on the safe.
That was Awesome, Great video. Well done.
Amazing work
Thanks for taking the time to post this! It was a great video.
Truly awesome! Was thinking about how to start making a safe. Your skills are precise. Something I aspire too.
Nice build well done 👍👍
Nice! You can always use grease to locate your holes versus tape.
thats impressive work, good job
So awesome!
Little bit of grease on the pin ends to mark for the holes works well too, great video as always
if memory serves me, my youtube experience began with your videos. the master of design and welding has 'wooed us' again. it's so humbling watching what you do. your expertise and simplicity is worthy of praise and admiration. how did you know how to construct the 'cam' mechanism so precisely?
thanks for another fine instructive video. i hope you and the family are well despite covid. looking forward to the day when you announce that a 'baby farmer and/or little lad who will recite " I will arise and go now, and go to Innisfree, And a small cabin build there, of clay and wattles made;
Nine bean-rows will I have there, a hive for the honey-bee, And live alone in the bee-loud glade," as lovely as his mother's voice. cheers
Simply genius work 👌🏻
really impressive going through the whole process
Nice to see a bit more about safe construction.