That's how my A/Cs mount, with the lag screws out side the 14x14" gasket. (Newmar says to torque the 3/8" lag screws to 60 inch pounds.) Both of mine leaked at the rear lag bolt on the passenger side. Our coach is a 2003 Newmar Dutch Star DP. Had I known the a/c wasn't mounted with screws inside the gasket I would have resealed those bolts. We bought it in 2016 and it already had a bubble on the roof next to the rear a/c. I've replaced all the plywood and fleeced backed TPO. Now I'm putting on the term bars and then all the stuff I took off the roof. Thank you posting your videos, they have been a "BIG" help!
That was a huge job by anyone's standard. It's great to know the videos helped. Many RV manufacturers now mount the A/C's from above with lag bolts like Newmar as the standard through bolt plenum is very noisy. I generally use sealant on the holes too and it never sits well with me drilling through the gasket but that's how the builders do it. Thanks!
It is a TPO roof membrane and I have installed it. The dirty secret is Carlisle is the membrane manufacturer and is sold under different "brand names" ie dicor, superflex. Thanks!
I noticed you seemed to remove butyl from the radius before applying the non-leveling, but you put the self leveling right over large chunks of butyl that has squeezed out from the front cap trim. I find that any sealant over butyl is the weak point and where most cracking happens. I personally find that removing the butyl that has squeezed out is crucial.
Hi can you tell if and what you use to seal between the TPO roof and the molding on the sides of the roof along the travel trailer. Not under the molding when it gets screwed down but afterwards, if I should be sealing that joint at all? Thanks.
I thought you had to use a special self leveling and non leveling sealant on TPO and not the dicor. I need to reseal my TPO roof on my 2019 Grand Design 5th wheel and want to use the right stuff. I read that you should use Alpha 1010 NL and 1021 SL on aTPO roof. What are your thoughts on sikaflex and tremco Dynomic products? Some say they last much much longer than the “RV” products.
I don't really like the sikaflex or the XTRM as they are much runnier. They are good products though. The sealant will list what types of roofs they are for in the directions. Alpha is a very similar acrylic sealant to dicor. Thanks!
Generally I use self adhesive fiberglass mesh drywall tape. The glue is able to bond to all the surfaces that way and it just adds some stability to the joints. Sometimes manufacturers use black Gorilla duct tapeon the metal radius. I'm not a fan of using this on the plywood seams because the duct tape adhesive can fail and the surface doesn't adhere as well to the membrane adhesive. On the metal radius it does add protection from metal edges and generally the membrane does not get glued to the radius just pulled tight over it. Thanks!
So on the metal radius would you recommend duct tape or just the drywall mesh tape. I’m about to do my roof but I have been holding off cause I want to make sure I use the right stuff on the seams. Thanks
@@natelavigne4353 Duct tape is better on the roof edge of the metal and the metal radius seams. Make sure you flatten any loose staples on the radius. I prefer to screw the radius back down rather than hope the staples stay down. But the tape should cover the hardware too.
@@kretz130 the foam seal should not be sealed. It won't damage anything, but makes removing it very difficult and can be a lubricant that allows the unit to move around and smear sealant as you try to position the ac correctly. Thanks
I believe your skills and and thoroughness is well implemented, however I'm not a fan of Dicor products and if I were replacing the TPO membrane it would be commercial grade like GAF makes and have Heat Welded seams around the vents and areas you use lap sealant. Have you used the Commercial grade membranes before?
So you’re relying on the Dicor shit sealant for the integrity of the roof? Same as the RV industry constructs them, keep applying more and more and over time it will leak. It has to, only way to have a watertight long term roof is to use curbs.
I dunno. I always view the dicor has flashing which curbs are too. The sealant is under the vents and seams, so the dicor could be viewed as optional. The problem generally is the joints loosen up and the more dicor is the obvious and eaiest fix. Maybe curbs are better, but I have seen trees and overhangs snag RV roofs and crushing an A/C into a roof is not uncommon. Re-building curbs is considerably more work than a patch job. In general, keeping things simple is best and maybe curbs can help a building last 80 years, but most RV's don't make it 25. All roofs should be inspected annually, and even curbs leak. Thanks!
Yes dicor is horrible. That's their cash cow to keep putting more on...more on! That stuff starts to deteriorate a few months from UV exposure....just like butyl does. Best way to seal these coaches M1 adhesive/sealant and duralink 50 sealant. And NEVER use silicone anywhere!
So James Do you get yelled at for having extra dirty socks by your maid on wash day ? As much as your viewers enjoy your videos , put your safety first up on the roofs . Damn you scare me sometimes .
Dicor is a HORRIBLE product to use.. the waves do not go away on their own & I used the product across the front seem bar & left massive waves all across the rubber which in turn create seperation from the seem bar & rubber not long afterwards, anyone who considers using dicor I would advise them to use another product being the chemicles in dicor's self leveling caulking creates a chemicle reaction to the rubber membrane, I personally would never use any products by dicor horrible product as stated..
That's how my A/Cs mount, with the lag screws out side the 14x14" gasket. (Newmar says to torque the 3/8" lag screws to 60 inch pounds.) Both of mine leaked at the rear lag bolt on the passenger side. Our coach is a 2003 Newmar Dutch Star DP. Had I known the a/c wasn't mounted with screws inside the gasket I would have resealed those bolts. We bought it in 2016 and it already had a bubble on the roof next to the rear a/c. I've replaced all the plywood and fleeced backed TPO. Now I'm putting on the term bars and then all the stuff I took off the roof. Thank you posting your videos, they have been a "BIG" help!
That was a huge job by anyone's standard. It's great to know the videos helped. Many RV manufacturers now mount the A/C's from above with lag bolts like Newmar as the standard through bolt plenum is very noisy. I generally use sealant on the holes too and it never sits well with me drilling through the gasket but that's how the builders do it. Thanks!
Nice job. Thanks for the video. Happy trails!
Thanks for watching!
Excellent. Better than factory, no doubt
Thank you!
Will Sikaflex 715 stick to TPO ?
What was the reason you didn't go with installing curbs and heat welding flashing on this TPO roof?
I enjoy your videos I am learning lots of bits and bobs, I was wondering your thoughts on Superflex RV Rubber. Thanks again for the info.
It is a TPO roof membrane and I have installed it. The dirty secret is Carlisle is the membrane manufacturer and is sold under different "brand names" ie dicor, superflex. Thanks!
How thick is the material used?
can you apply the tpo roof and adhesives in cold weather?
I noticed you seemed to remove butyl from the radius before applying the non-leveling, but you put the self leveling right over large chunks of butyl that has squeezed out from the front cap trim. I find that any sealant over butyl is the weak point and where most cracking happens. I personally find that removing the butyl that has squeezed out is crucial.
great
looks great
What can I paint my tpo roof with?
Is 28 mil the usual thickness of tpo used on rvs? Or should I be concerned with that when ordering membrane?
Hi can you tell if and what you use to seal between the TPO roof and the molding on the sides of the roof along the travel trailer. Not under the molding when it gets screwed down but afterwards, if I should be sealing that joint at all? Thanks.
a "non-leveling" acyrlic sealant basically non sagging dicor
@@AZExpert so a regular dicor non-leveling sealant nothing special or TPO roof membrane...thanks and great video
I thought you had to use a special self leveling and non leveling sealant on TPO and not the dicor. I need to reseal my TPO roof on my 2019 Grand Design 5th wheel and want to use the right stuff.
I read that you should use Alpha 1010 NL and 1021 SL on aTPO roof.
What are your thoughts on sikaflex and tremco Dynomic products? Some say they last much much longer than the “RV” products.
I don't really like the sikaflex or the XTRM as they are much runnier. They are good products though. The sealant will list what types of roofs they are for in the directions. Alpha is a very similar acrylic sealant to dicor. Thanks!
What do you use around the edges and along seams of the plywood before gluing down the tpo?
Generally I use self adhesive fiberglass mesh drywall tape. The glue is able to bond to all the surfaces that way and it just adds some stability to the joints. Sometimes manufacturers use black Gorilla duct tapeon the metal radius. I'm not a fan of using this on the plywood seams because the duct tape adhesive can fail and the surface doesn't adhere as well to the membrane adhesive. On the metal radius it does add protection from metal edges and generally the membrane does not get glued to the radius just pulled tight over it. Thanks!
So on the metal radius would you recommend duct tape or just the drywall mesh tape. I’m about to do my roof but I have been holding off cause I want to make sure I use the right stuff on the seams. Thanks
@@natelavigne4353 Duct tape is better on the roof edge of the metal and the metal radius seams. Make sure you flatten any loose staples on the radius. I prefer to screw the radius back down rather than hope the staples stay down. But the tape should cover the hardware too.
When you put the sealant under the AC unit, did you put it UNDER the foam bumper? Or just up against it?
Only where the A/C lag bolts go into the roof for additional seal.
So in the case of the old style AC units that have the pinch plate tightened from underneath, no extra sealant required?
@@kretz130 the foam seal should not be sealed. It won't damage anything, but makes removing it very difficult and can be a lubricant that allows the unit to move around and smear sealant as you try to position the ac correctly. Thanks
I believe your skills and and thoroughness is well implemented, however I'm not a fan of Dicor products and if I were replacing the TPO membrane it would be commercial grade like GAF makes and have Heat Welded seams around the vents and areas you use lap sealant. Have you used the Commercial grade membranes before?
I have not. RV Roof Installs in Georgia do install that and do a great job!
So you’re relying on the Dicor shit sealant for the integrity of the roof? Same as the RV industry constructs them, keep applying more and more and over time it will leak. It has to, only way to have a watertight long term roof is to use curbs.
I dunno. I always view the dicor has flashing which curbs are too. The sealant is under the vents and seams, so the dicor could be viewed as optional. The problem generally is the joints loosen up and the more dicor is the obvious and eaiest fix. Maybe curbs are better, but I have seen trees and overhangs snag RV roofs and crushing an A/C into a roof is not uncommon. Re-building curbs is considerably more work than a patch job. In general, keeping things simple is best and maybe curbs can help a building last 80 years, but most RV's don't make it 25. All roofs should be inspected annually, and even curbs leak. Thanks!
Yes dicor is horrible. That's their cash cow to keep putting more on...more on! That stuff starts to deteriorate a few months from UV exposure....just like butyl does. Best way to seal these coaches M1 adhesive/sealant and duralink 50 sealant. And NEVER use silicone anywhere!
So James Do you get yelled at for having extra dirty socks by your maid on wash day ? As much as your viewers enjoy your videos , put your safety first up on the roofs . Damn you scare me sometimes .
the roof is clean so the socks don't get dirty. Shoes can damage a newer roof. Thanks!
Dicor is a HORRIBLE product to use.. the waves do not go away on their own & I used the product across the front seem bar & left massive waves all across the rubber which in turn create seperation from the seem bar & rubber not long afterwards, anyone who considers using dicor I would advise them to use another product being the chemicles in dicor's self leveling caulking creates a chemicle reaction to the rubber membrane, I personally would never use any products by dicor horrible product as stated..
Thanks for your input. I have found the product properly installed to be good on membranes and decent on metal and fiberglass roofs.