Inca 560 Planer Feed Upgrade
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- čas přidán 22. 07. 2024
- The Inca 550, 560 and 570 Combination 10-1/4" Jointer/Planer Machine is a phenomenal Swiss made precision tool. It's one achilles heel however is that the speed reduction arrangement to power the planer rollers have a plastic helical gear that can be damaged from lack of lubrication, prolonged use or aggressive cutting. I've eliminated the one weak point of the machine by installing a 57rpm dc gear motor that allows for infinite feed speed from 0 to 21 linear feet per minute (stock is ~11lfm (low) & 16lfm (high). This is how I did it.
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That machine is a classic! Cool to have one, even cooler to it is all tuned up and working nicely!
Really smart build man. Love the brass set screw idea!
Thanks! I'm pretty stoked on it. I spent the better half of yesterday dialing it in and it's cutting phenomenally. Now that I'm done with this project i"m moving on to finishing my 1939 12"x36" Clausing 100 metal lathe.
Neat! I will look at those drive roller springs in the future, but all the models I see were made for the Canadian market and I have not seen the short 510-570 serial #'s J/P's of the US market, except for my big bandsaw that I brought back from Mass. There seemed to be several parts, altered thinned down as models moved along, those tension springs are obviously set low so a clip or pin is the same as a nut but less cost, you could thread the ends and ad nuts, which would allow you to overtension them, add stress to the bushings inside the pillow blocks of the of the drive rollers and wear out those bushings and crush nice little grooves in the wood as the rollers crush and pull the wood through the thicknesser, wear out the plastic sprockets (not a fan of those) and put a strain on the dc motor system. Rant over and out. Remember draining the swamp was the goal. Don't forget polish that stainless steel deck and use wax (non silicone) and buff that will ease all the strain on all those tricky Inca parts right back to the motor and reduce the hole in your wallet.
Cheers Mate
Jerry Walker in Everett Ontario
Great video and upgrade . I was thinking my 550 was headed for the graveyard for not being able to get parts. The feed change is the best idea and otherwise the planer does a nice job. I have making my own urethane belts ; but i see the plastic planetary gears are on they're way out . Variable speed looks like the best thing too. Thanks for spurring my interest and posting .
Glad I could help
Can you say what diameter the round urethane belts are, so that I can make a few.
Great upgrade. Looking forward to your next jointer planer video. I just bought a 343.190 with a 2 blade Tersa setup that is in great condition and cutting beautifully as is, but it came without the dust collection hood. I am very interested to see your solution. I feel lucky to have found such a precision machine for less than a Dewalt lunch box planer. Do you know if the 343.190 is the same as a 550, 570, etc.? Thanks for sharing.
You mention in the video, Frank's (?) file showing how to do this upgrade. could you let me know where I can find this file? This is a great idea, but I would need some detailed instructions. Thank you!
Hey now thats a very good idea to use on my Belsaw planer.
can you list the motor and control units?
This would also work on a drum sander homemade.
Really great to see. I've purchased same kind of machine where I would need to upgrade the feed as well, really not working, but in good shape otherwise. I'd be really grateful if it was possible to send me information on how the upgrade was done and what parts were used. If possible with detailed info since I'm a bit of a beginner at this, but would like to try to fix it. Thanks in advance!
Good video, greetings from finland!
What size pulley did you use on the Bodine motor? Dia/teeth?
I recently bought a used Inca with that upgrade already installed (to replace by Inca). After mounting the motor under my stand, regularly the switch does not start the motor. Wondering if it could be beause I wired up the grond connection between the motor and the controller, or if my toggle switch in the controller is flaky. Any ideas? Where can I find a wiring and setup guide for the controller for this application?
Could you tell me what size gear you used and where you got it?
+thesergeant I am really curious about the DC Gearmotor you used for this upgrade. I have the same machine and was looking to do a similar upgrade. I'm wondering what the torque rating for your gearmotor is? I want to make sure that the motor I purchase for this upgrade has sufficient torque. Thanks for your help!
On the plantary gear instead of switching to a DC motor you could cast the gear in aluminum or cast iron
This is fantastic. I just picked up a very similar Inca with a terse head. The feed assembly is missing a bunch of parts however and the gears seem to be shot. I'd like to do something similar to what you have here. Any more info? Could you provide a link to Franks guide? Thanks!
did you ever provide franks guide, i need to do this upgrade, any info would be appreciated. TY
Nice work.
I have the 2 blade tersa version and my switch has broken. Any ideas on getting a replacement one or putting on a new motor and switch.
The switch on mine just went out and a replacement that was close, was a couple hundred dollars. I replaced it with a Leeson 56C 2 HP motor. Worked great!
I have a broken sprocket on my plastic pinion cluster, I would like to make changes to mine. Who is your supplier for the sprockets? and who is Frank? Cheers Jerry
You can contact Jesse at Eagle Tools in Los Angeles for a replacement pinion gear if you'd like to keep it stock. Gears are ~$60+shipping last I checked. I purchased the sprocket for the motor off of ebay. The number of teeth is dependent on the RPM of your motor. You'll need to run the numbers and figure out the feed range you want to determine the teeth on the gear. Most motors you're going to run across will have imperial shaft sizes (typically 5/8"). Since the sprocket you need is metric (05B-1) you'll need to bore out your gear to fit on the motor shaft. Frank is a member on the Inca yahoo forum that did a similar modification years ago. He was kind enough to give me some direction in the modification. I'm going to be starting a separate channel dedicated to Inca machines. There seems to be very little info out there on them so I thought it would be nice to do a demonstration of the ones I have and discuss some of the upgrades/modifications I've made to them. SInce making this video I have upgraded to a brand new, unused Inca 570 Tersa head jointer/planer, and purchased the Inca 10" band saw and 259 10" table saw/mortising machine. Check back in in a few weeks and I will post a link in this video to the new channel. Thanks!
Hope you can help me out! Can you tell me what sprocket you used and where you found it? I have not had any luck. Thanks! Tom
I just modified my 550 with 3Nm nema 23 stepper motor. I bought my sprocket from McMaster
What model motor did you use sir? Nice work by the way!
Thanks, I used a Bodine Electric DC Servo 1/8 HP 57RPM motor with Bodine speed controller. I purchased it used on eBay. Not necessarily cheap but taking into account that the replacement gear is $60 and the belt is $15, it only takes 2-3 to pay for itself. Plus you don't have to worry about lubricating the gear and taking only very light passes. Hope that helps!
Just wanted to let you know I followed your plan very closely on my 550 and am quite pleased. I replaced the beat up original stand with a Dewalt DW7350 planer stand and removed the Dewalt stickers and added a 1.5" thick top and was quite happy. Then I got a opportunity to procure a pristine 570 that had been in storage for 19 years. I took the 550 and slapped it on the 570's base and reinstalled the old drive system and sold that sucker. I then used the new base and drive system on the nice 570 with the Tersa head. I'm struggling to get the chain to line up perfectly...getting a little chatter. Need to spend a bit more time sorting that out. Anyway I am very grateful to you for this video.
TS: I have purchased from Jesse before, I hope he has metal sprockets, this is the 3rd J/P machine I have reworked, the early models had all steel sprockets, the planetary gear was a treat to watch, again an issue to repair..... the engineer who designed these must have been a watch maker! Thanks for the quick response.
I have 7 machines in storage that are repairable, and have made parts for fences the 259 and the locking nut for the overarm guard.
This one has a very rusty 2 knife Tersa Head. I am making a bearing clamp to ease the pillow blocks out to remove the head for cleaning and bearing replacement. I purchase my knives from Janine at Tersa Knives tersaknives.com/. They carry all the SamVaz products like the Rali Planes and can have a 3 knife Tersa head (with bearings) delivered to your door, from Switzerland for $650.00 Canadian Dollars. (quoted to me in April 2015) I had a meeting with her in Beautiful Kaslo BC 2 years ago
I have subscribed to see your next installment.
I am planning an Inca T-shirt run.
I have sharp stills of my rebuilds but no videos.
Look forward to your next Inca bits.
Great work on the souped-up Inca!
Cheers Jerry
Ahhh yes! I recognize your name now. I went through your pics of your 510 rebuild on the yahoo group. Incredible job there. I noticed in the rebuild of the roller bushings that the roller tension appears to be adjustable on the 510. Unfortunately that's not the case on the 550/570. I'm looking onto simple ways to accomplish this on my machine. Also looking into building a bed extension for the planer that won't require require frequent waxing.
My 570 is a 2-knife as well. I ordered a lifetime worth of tersa blades from Janine. They were great to deal with and the prices were good too. Unfortunately the fence on my 570 is convex so I'm not able to joint a 90* edge. I'm thinking about just carpet taping (or screwing -- last resort) a 3/8" peice of maple to the face and then jointing the wood flat. I've had a 550 and a 560 and both fences were fine. My 570 is brand new and though the excitement I missed the warped fence.
Looking forward to seeing your shirt!
Soft keys sheer off, that's why they make drive keys you're overthinking this.
Just use a brass key. unless you do not have a broch or mill to cut the keyway slots.
That plastic gear is a horrible design on an otherwise excellent machine. i made a base for mine out of a steel telecom cabinet that had heavy castors. Pull the lead off the motor and re-wire with 14-3 lead cord. 2 hot wires 1 neutral 1 ground if you want it all on the same switch