Part 2 of 2 - Dacia Sandero Timing Belt, Tensioner & Water Pump for Renault D4F engine as in Clio.🚗
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- čas přidán 6. 06. 2024
- Part 2 of 2 of Replacing the Timing Belt, Tensioner and Water Pump on a 2014 Dacia Sandero which uses the Renault D4F Petrol engine. This engine, the Renault D4F is also fitted in the
OIL AND FILTER CLICK HERE ➡ • 2014 Dacia Sandero / R... ⬅
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8️⃣ Lisle Tool's 59370 Stretch Belt 🚧 amzn.to/37plpwj 🚧
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▶ Water pump was a KWP from Euro Car Parts 201 74 0035 and was £35
⬇️Timecodes
00:00 Introduction to Part 2
00:13 Fit the New Water Pump
09:08 Fit the New Timing Belt
17:59 Adjusting Tensioner again
18:37 Refit Coolant Pipe
19:08 Refit Timing Belt Covers & Engine Mount
25:27 Tighten Crankshaft Pulley Bolt
27:04 Refill Coolant
29:18 Refit Engine cover
29:59 Start the engine
30:43 Credits
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#dacia #sandero #timingbelt - Auta a dopravní prostředky
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So it's finally done! Tested only a few km, the car runs smooth, no leaks and no strange noises coming from the engine. A huge thanks to Mark Savage (and Cristian Nicolae) for their help in my baptism as a (wannabe) home mechanic. I share here some tips from my own process in my 2012 Dacia Logan 1.2 75cv in the hope that they are helpful to other people:
- My car model has a flywheel plastic cover that had to be removed to block the engine. Just 1 bolt, not a big deal.
- My car is an AC model so the accesories belts were a bit more complex than in the video. As Cristian Nicolae noted in another comment, the alternator belt can be forced into position with a screwdriver or similar flat tool (I used a palstic tool for bycicle wheels), but it's not such an easy process for the newbie. I actually found helpful the youtube video that explains the use of the Lisle L5937 tool, it's easy enough to find with a simple search. As for the other belt, it indeed has a tensioner screwed on with a Torx 50 bolt and the tension is regulated by an hexagonal piece right behind the bolt. So for putting back the belt, you position it loose around all the pulleys, roller and tensioner, and then with a spanner in one hand you give it the required tension turning that hexagonal piece and then tighten the torx bolt with your other hand.
- The timing belt has 95 teeth, 48 on one side of the white mark, 47 on the other. So I had to come to the conclusion (experienced mechanics correct me if I'm wrong) that there is only one correct position for the belt, that is, for the marks you paint on the belt there is a top one (for camshaft) and a bottom one for crankshaft, and they are not interchangeable, as there must be 48 teeth between camshaft and crankshaft (counting clockwise) for the belt to slip easily around the water pump pulley. Could it be that that was the "1 tooth out" problem in your video, Mark?
- Once you put on the new timing belt and turn the engine 6 times, the indentations on crankshaft and camshaft will match (hopefully) but not the white marks on the belt. They don't have to, and it's normal. Actually if you do some maths it's expectable, there's 21 teeth on the crankshaft, 42 on the camshaft and 95 on the belt, so there must be a lot of turns of the engine before all the marks match again.
- That clip holding the coolant pipe at the bottom of the car that you have to remove to empty the coolant is difficult to get to, difficult to extract and difficult to put back. I followed the advice from another video and changed it for a jubilee clip (0.45€), which made life a bit easier.
- There's a couple of bleeding valves for purging the air out of the coolant system when you refill it, in case you don't have that vacuum device Mark uses.
- Don't be an absent-minded moron as I am and don't forget to put on the washer along with the crankshaft pulley bolt when you install the new timing belt and are hand-turning the engine. Otherwise, the crankshaft wheel will "wiggle" slightly and the timing belt will slowly slip out of place, and you will increasingly worry that something is very wrong and you don't have a clue what it is (and Google searches will frighten you about misaligned engine pieces)
- Don't be an absent-minded moron and (almost) forget to take off the flywheel pin before restarting the engine. I don't know how bad it would be, and I don't want to.
- According to the Gates instructions, torque for the crankshaft pulley bolt is 40Nm+125º for Dacia. I got as far as 40Nm+a little less than 90º and didn't dare to (or could physically) tighten it further.
- Torque for the wheel bolts is 105Nm according to the manuals I watched
Top hellish patience-testing top-of-the voice-swearing moments :
- Getting the old water pump out. As Mark notes, it takes some heavy convincing as it's "glued" to the engine. It took me some hammering and some levering with a flat scredriver.
- Getting the new water pump in position. It was almost a neurosurgery process, and the way Mark does it in the video gives the clue of the EXACT movements needed to put it in place. One milimeter or nanosecond out of place, you're off and back to the beginning.
- Getting the push-fit pipe out of the water pump. As Mark notes, "it takes some wiggling" (lots of it!) and in my car it was not so easily accesible. I finally found it easier to do from under the car. The bolt holding it in place is quite hellish to get to too. So yes, you'll probably up hating the bloody water pump.
So all in all, it took me 8 days of part-time working on it, but I'm pretty confident that if I had to do it again, it would be less than 10 hours. I saved about 500€ that can go to a decent trip when Covid19 allows, I have now a decent supply of tools and a better knowledge of how my car works, and most of all the satisfaction of DIY and feeling a bit less clumsy.
Sorry for the length, sorry for my english and thanks once again to Mark (and Cristian). Cheers!
WOW !!! now that's a comment !!!! That really made my day seeing that you had success. So pleased you achieved your challenge, its never easy to start a big job not knowing how the outcome will be. In one of my other series I replaced the head gasket on a Honda engine only for it to refuse to start. I was devastated and sad as I thought all that work for nothing. My wife solved it by saying put the full amount of oil in. I had only put in the minimum as I was going to dispose of that oil immediately once the engine was up and running but that simple mistake seemed to be what stopped the engine starting after the rebuild. I am really please for you.
I wasn't quite understanding what you were saying about the timing belt and the teeth on each side? as the back of most belts is smooth ???
I think we will all be glad after this Covid19 pandemic to get our cars out and to enjoy driving again properly and without fear.
Take care and stay safe
@@CoatsandGaiters sorry about that belt confusion. My new timing belt (like yours in the video) brought white marks for alignment. If you take one of them and start counting teeth until you get to the other mark, you realise there is a "long" half of the belt (48 teeth) and a "short" one with 47, I had the same problem as you did in the video of the belt being too tight to slip around the water pump pulley once aligned, until I realised it has to be the "long" part of the belt on the water pulley side, and the "short" on the tensioner side. I hope I explained better this time
@@cutariechucutariechez2581 arrrrrr fantastic explanation. Thank you so much for that. You might need to start making videos soon as I totally missed that trick. Going to run and hide now lol
Best 1.2 D4F video on here.
Thank you for that. Hope it helped you out.
Thanks so much for making such a very good detailed video, I,ve had my Dacia Sandero 1.2 since 2013, bought it from new and now it has done 68,000 miles without any problems what’s so ever. It will be going into the garage next week to get the water pump and timing belt changed out
Thank you for the compliment and good luck with your timing belt. Hope it goes well.
Such a good access to the oil filter this way!
Certainly more visible like you say.
A big thank you, I've never found a specific tutorial for dacia sandero. It's easy to understand, clear step by step.
Btw tightening torque for the engine bolt is 62NM for dacia too
Thank you for the feedback JohnnyyV ! much appreciated on the torque.
i have 40Nm + 70° for crankshaft, 24 Nm for tensioner and 62Nm for engine mount, both in continental and renault manuals...
@@albirdie1630 we do have some differences in the info. Mine is from a Bosch trade software so whether something changed I don't know. I would presume Renault info to be most accurate. I have 40Nm + 125±6°, 24Nm for tensioner and mine doesnt show engine mount torque?
Just watched this 2nd part, perfect, and liked and subscribed, why would anyone give this a thumbs down, might be garage owners worried about losing business
Really appreciate that and your positive comments. Thank you
Merci , très beau tutoriel !
Thank you for the positive comment.
Again, a great video. Very informativ and educational. A good exampel how to make a video. Thank you! 👍😁
Really pleased to hear this as its a personal challenge to try and help others as I have been helped so much over the years by other CZcamsrs.
Superb video very detailed and informative.like a detailed teacher.absolutely sublime video and referencing and highlighting.1 of the best videos ive seen on youtube.i salute you sir as this was extremely well done.may you gain the very least great satisfaction in teaching others may your life be blessed with good favours for such effort in trying to assist others.a true world class video
Thank you for such a fantastic and kind comment. You've made my evening with this. Take care nabil.
After the success with the oil&filter change this seems quite challenging but not undoable... Maybe too much for someone with no previous experience as a mechanic, but with your video I can at least think about it (great economic saving&satisfaction vs the possibility of screwing up)
They can be expensive jobs I believe. Around £400 I understand. My logic was if a job is £500 and it still costs me £500 but I have the tools to repeat the job then its a long term saving. I think I was also scarred when my Volvo 740 broke down because of the in tank fuel pump failed which was £90, but Volvo replaced the Fuel distributor and that didn't work so they replaced the main pump under the car and still that didn't work and then they replaced the pump in the tank and suddenly it worked !!!! My bill was for £1,000 !!!!. I complained and said it was only the lift pump in the tank but they said they followed the Volvo official method and that if I didn't pay the bill they would keep the car !!!! After that I though how many tools could I have bought for £1,000 !!!!!!! I also concluded that at least if I mess up its my fault which I could live with over a garage messing up and I still have to pay the bill.
Great tutorial!
Thank you for saying so
Thank's brother a love your vidéos
Thank you Kamel
ciao eccellente video eccellente spiegazione facile da capire x fai da te peccato che non sia completamente in italiano SEI SUPER BRAVISSIMO CIAO
Thank you for the lovely comment. Hope this video helps you out.
Great Video! As a german it is quite understandable for me! :)
Thank you Diesel Dust. I try my best to show every detail to help everyone.
Thanks i liked it.
Thank you for saying
I don't think i have ever seen anyone make such clear video's Top Notch.
Thank you for that Mr Grumps. Hope it helped you.
ciao certamente mi aiuta faro da solo la distribuzione alla mia sandero grazie al TUO VIDEO CIAO
"hello it certainly helps me I will do the distribution to my sandero by myself thanks to YOUR VIDEO HELLO" Thank you for the comment. Really sorry for the delay but CZcams had put your message into another folder that I didn't see.
Excellent pair of videos, very thorough. Curious about that water pump gasket, is it a steel gasket? I ask as my experience so far I've only seen paper or a rubber o-ring.
Thank you for that comment Diesel Bricks. I think it was a metal gasket. The original seems to be metal as well with a thin orange rubber surface material. Hope that helps.
I ended up with a badly tracking belt which rubbed off the lower plastic cover after doing this job. I tried to re-seat it without any luck and to boot I still heard an abnormal noise from what sounded like the tensioner with the cover removed. At that point I started googling and came across a German Renault forum where the general consensus was that SKF kits (at least for the D4F engine) are rubbish. I had never had trouble with SKF parts (put an SKF half shaft on the same car last year for example) but I was then uneasy about leaving the SKF timing belt and especially the tensioner in place after reading all the bad reviews. The forum members mostly said to go with Dayco belts and INA tensioners as these were OEM suppliers to Renault. I left the SKF water pump in place as I didn't feel like wasting the original Renault coolant I'd put into it and just replaced the tensioner and belt with the above brands and.....immediate silence! I may have just been unlucky but some of the pics of low mileage (1k miles!) SKF tensioners with grease being expelled from the bearing was pretty disconcerting. From looking at the Dayco kit in the video, the tensioner looks suspiciously like the INA one to me. If I was doing it again I would get a Hepu water pump as well. I'd buy all three parts separately rather than the lucky dip of a kit where you don't know who makes what (SKF do not make rubber belts and Gates don't make water pumps for example).
Thank you for sharing your experience. I think this can be the problem with various parts as they can all have their own issues and if they change something at production they may later find it was to the products detriment. OEM parts are always safer but sadly always cost a lot more. I can't remember what I fitted to the Dacia in this video but thankfully it's still ok and my relative drives it every day to work.
Very informative and useful video. Does this car have Haynes service manual?
Thank you, not sure that it does but it's very similar to a Renault Clio
27:00 Pheasant again :)))
Lordracula your meant to be mending your Dacia not listening for farm animals lol
I did one of these today and found that the line on the belt was one tooth out.I found that the solution was to swap the top and bottom of the belt, the marks must not be an equal distance apart.
Thank you for that feedback David, much appreciated.
Fantastic video thanks for sharing pity you didn’t show the (fan belt and power steering belt) being reassembled…..
Thank you for the compliment. I know I’m sorry I was a bit new to making videos back then. Now I show every nut and bolt in detail.
@@CoatsandGaiters
Did you have any trouble fitting the two belt’s? I think you mentioned they were stretch belt’s
I thought I saw an adjustment on the alternator. Thank you for the reply back
Regards Eric
@@castrolgtx5064 I think they said you should use new belts and as I didn’t I thought it best not to record it as it was technically wrong to do that. I bought a tool to help slip the belt back onto the pulley or you could use a bit of smooth plastic.
Superb, well produced video with clear and well structured description of the process and torque setting etc. My timing belt gave-way so I've had to remove the head and sent it away for a refurb. When I get it back, do I simply align the TDC marks on cam & crankshaft pulleys, or is it possible to get the engine 180 degrees out of phase (because each rotation of the crankshaft is only half a turn of the camshaft).
Thank you Peter for the compliment. I used to ponder on this one all the time. I think I made that mistake on my allegro once. Once the timing arks are set it should be correct. Under normal circumstances the cams are locked and the flywheel is locked in their single correct positions using tools on some cars. Things only go out as the engine rotates and that's when the crank has turned once but the cams have only turned half a revolution. But with things lined up at the start of setting up it would be correct. Either way once finished turn the engine over by hand in the correct direction to ensure nothing is conflicting with each other.
@@CoatsandGaiters Many thanks for the prompt reply! I found the answer in a Haynes manual - turn the engine over and using a finger or screwdriver head covering the spark plug hole, 'feel' for the air pressure created by the piston coming up on the compression stroke. Because the head is off completely, I think I'll also be able to get the timing mark roughly set in the correct position (ie at the top of the compression stroke) by watching the valve action as I carefully turn the camshaft pulley. I think the mistake with your Austin All-agro might have been buying it in the first place :-).
@@peterormerod9921 That's good news Peter. I loved my little Allegro I was picked up many a time with the AA. Burnt valves, distributer arcing out. It was that little car that made me mend cars as the AA said I had had my 3 relays for the year and wasn't eligible for any more. At that point I was forced to mend it. Could change a clutch in 30 minutes in the end haha
Congratulations for this beautiful guide! I have a question for you. I don't have find the o_ring for the pipe on the new water pump kit ( I have only find the rectangular rubber gasket). It's a problem if I don't change it? So, where I can find a new circular o_ring for the pipe? At the Renault official dealer or at hardware?
Thank you for the compliment. I just looked on eBay and most of them don't seem to have the 'o' ring only the square one. Personally I'd probably use the old one but put a bit of red rubber grease or silicone grease on the old 'o' ring and reuse it. Short of that Dacia will have then or Renault from the main dealer.
@@CoatsandGaiters thank you so much!! ☺️
@@ilvale6439 Ideally you'd replace it but often these things don't leak if your carful and don't damage them. In theory the rubber will have moulded itself over time. If you do reuse it, I'd just keep an eye on the area for leaks and do regular checks on the coolant levels in case it may leak in the future.
@@CoatsandGaiters your guide is very good because I know many people take off a/c pump and alternator to make access to the water pump.
@@ilvale6439 thank you
Great video agsin. I wiuld have no fear takung this on now. My car is 6 years old but has on 21,300 miles. New belt and tensioner but I think a new pump would be an overkill. What do you think?
Thank you for the comment. To be honest the pump isn't that expensive and it only bolted in so I'd personally do it but like you say the mileage is pretty low so you may well be ok. I guess its down to money and how you feel about doing it. I guess if you do the belt you can easily do the pump later on if need be.
I think I will leave it. Its not that a difficult timing belt to do and your 2 videos are excellent and show that. As I will be keeping the car longterm as a 2nd car I will do the water pump next time around. Thanks for your prompt reply😊👍
@@gerduhig6693 I'd probably do the same to be honest. Your a bit like me. Like to get my monies worth out of things and can't see the point in replacing something that is working fine.
I wouldn't change such a low mileage water pump or even tensioner. I cannot see how a water pump or tensioner would deteriorate due to age. The rubber belt yes, but the other stuff, no. I will only do the belt next time on my wife's car (which is doing about 5k miles a year only) and do the other stuff on the second belt change, though I'll do the belt in 5 years already, not waiting until the last to do it. That's if she still has the car then.
I counted 48 valleys from my marks going clockwise from the "top" valley mark to the "bottom" valley mark towards the front of the engine but only 47 valleys going anti-clockwise. On my SKF belt the new marks did line up exactly with the marks I transferred from the old belt. It looks like DAYCO counted the wrong way when setting the marks! Maybe they incorrectly assumed that the marks are an equidistant from each other no matter what way around you go.
Thank you for that as it had me foxed for a while.
Any tips for putting the accesories belts in 25:49 back on? As you skip it in the video, I understand it's a straightforward enough process
I think it might be a stretch belt which technically means your meant to replace it once removed but I pulled the pulley by hand and popped the bolt back in as I recall. Not strictly correct hence I didn't show it. My step daughter is very tight with money and wouldn't pay for a new belt which forced me to reuse the old one. You can buy a Lisle L5937 stretch tool but they are about £27.50 on ebay. Hope this helps.
If you don't have AC (like the car in the video) you can put the power steering belt back on by zip tieing it to the pump pulley (through the holes), rotating the accessories pulley and cutting the ziptie after the belt gets on the pump pulley. Dayco has a video on putting stretch fit belts on using a zip tie. AC models have a belt tensioner. And for the alternator belt you can buy a more expensive kit (~50 euros) which includes a mounting tool, but I just forced mine on with a big flat head screwdriver (no problems after 20k km).
@@cristiannicolae6309 thank you for that added infor, its always handy to have more insight into these things.
@@cristiannicolae6309 Well, it's the model with AC, comes with a tensioner and a roller. Problem is that, for the life me, I can't find the nut/mechanism to release the tension so I can extract the belt 🤔 (image attached)
drive.google.com/file/d/1N3jr3n7n1S2kGD6rJhL85Q48jKYWVNuV/view?usp=drivesdk
@@cutariechucutariechez2581 You'll find a torx bolt behind the plastic cap of the tensioner. T35 or T40, don't remember exactly. Tensioning back the belt is done with a spanner (can't remember the size) from the back part where the teeth are. Setting the correct tension is done similarly to tuning a guitar string. As in there's a frequency measuring tool which you attach to the belt and you pluck the belt like a guitar string and tighten/untighten until you get the correct frequency (219Hz as per the manual). I coulnt't find that tool anywhere on the market so I improvised something with a piezo pickup and my oscilloscope, but I suppose you can tighten the belt with moderate tension and tighten it again if it's slipping.
It's a good thing that the water pump came with those two black rubber o-rings as the one on the pipe looked crusty. Don't you think that pump you removed was not the original one, given that there was red RTV sealant on it? Is that type of sealant used in the factory? I am not too familiar with Renault, but I have always associated that type of red sealant gasket with aftermarket. I was also glad to see a solid gasket included in your water pump kit - much better than using sealant IMO.
Hi Super Vitz, good question so I've just been out to look at that pump and can confirm its metal with an orange rubberised coating on. Was the original pump I believe as the car was low mileage back then. Still going daily today. Over 100k now.
@@CoatsandGaiters aha nice. Thanks for checking and great video!
@@supervitz7178 Thank you. I wasn't sure either so had to check after you mentioned it lol very sharp by the way....the gasket that is.
Did you renew the crank pulley bolt?
I didn't but technically you should as it's a stretch bolt.
Its 4 years ago and it did not brake I think? Haha
@@tomken18 no it was fine. The car appeared in a recent series of mine.
I replaced a belt and also reused the bolt. this because there was none in the kit from continental. Normally there is always a bolt included. so I thought I could reuse it. I did not tighten it 125 degrees. thanks for your responses
That's what I did. I just didn't tighten it as much. I have reused cam bolts as well but in one video I felt them going soft on me and starting to stretch !!!! My issue is I'm very tight with money so if I cut corners I just drive slower in that car to compensate for it not being in tip top condition. Probably not the best idea really but times are getting harder. @@tomken18
excuse me for my bad english, what is the tightening torque for the screws of water pump?
Hi they are 10 N.m but there is a sequence to tightening. If you go to 5:27 on the video I have shown the information you need. Hope this helps.
@@CoatsandGaiters I just skipped that part
@@CoatsandGaiters how many liters antifreeze it takes?
Sorry I don't accurately know. but a car that size would probably be around 7 litres
It's really strange how you're rotate the engine over with the tensioner slightly looser than you do when you run it. Any idea why?
Not sure on the exact time point your looking at but I'm thinking you might be referring to rotating the engine 6 times to ensure everything has settled and all turning smoothly as a final check.
@@CoatsandGaiters Yeah I get that bit but, unless I'm wrong, you tensioned the tensioner, rotated the engine and then tightened the tensioner more after that point?
@@adambennett805 Hi just looking at Bosch instructions again and it says, tighten tensioner pulley, turn crank 6 times, recheck alignment again, slacken tensioner and retighten. Maybe its to allow the tensioner to settle in and then redo to ensure its tensioning correctly. Sadly I'm not sure. I just follow the manufacturers instructions word for word. Sorry I can't be more help.
@@CoatsandGaiters fair enough mate that helps anyway thanks. Is there any chance you could link me those instructions please?
@@adambennett805 you can email me at coatsandgaiters
the gasket is installed "dry" ?
I believe so.
@@CoatsandGaiters I have seen on headgaskets some kind of red tacky fluid (not blood ;-) that helps installing it. Maybe it could be used here too.
@@withgrowinginsanity198 yes I used that type of sealant when I did the head gasket in the Honda CRC video. As I recall it was called ‘three bond’ I think. I try to stick with what the manufacturers advise where I can. I had the same thinking that adding extra sealant to a gasket might make it seal better but I recall they advise against it as it’s like applying 2 gaskets when one is all that’s required. I think the sealant tends to be used when it’s metal against metal and requires a liquid sealant.
@@CoatsandGaiters yep , using 2 gaskets might not be a good idea. I was more thinking of a "install helper"... kind of tacky fluid that will hold the gasket in place for the installation... and then magically disappear after the engine is hot. but maybe this sort of thing does not exist...
@@withgrowinginsanity198 it should stay there ok. I think that was a metal gasket if I recall correctly.
I think that it was one tooth out because it was up side down
Not sure as I believe the direction of rotation was correct with the arrows. I did read that sometimes these timing belt kits can be made for different models but as they are effectively the same they might use them in other kits. Which might mean sometimes the marks will differ. Thank you
@@CoatsandGaiters The belt have 95 teeth. The marks separate them in two sections one have 47 teeth and other 48. The 48 teeth section must be put in the water pump side.
@@amadeus6490 Thank you for that, though I do remember the arrow was pointing in the right direction. Thankfully all came good in the end as the car is running good with us still. If I do another I will bear what you mention in mind. Did puzzle me as I do like things to be spot on. Not one for mysteries. This is where experience counts.
@@amadeus6490 you are 100% right, I experienced the very same thing,there are arrows showing the clockwise direction,but regarding the white markings, you don’t know which one is crankshaft or camshaft. And as you say there’s 48 tooth on waterpump side, 47 on tensioner side. So if your belt is a tooth out, you should rotate it further a half turn,and the markings will be spot on.
Id pay you to do my timing belt and water pump if you lived near east midlands if you were willing,even though i wouldnt mind dabbling at this i worry i aint got entirely all the correct tools as you have to do this job as properly as you have.plus dont trust many cowboy mechanics.your video shows how thorough you are and not least competent.
I take too long lol, I am really slow, be terrible as a professional mechanic, those guys have to work against the clock and still get it right. Anyway if I did it and got paid I would have failed in helping others haha now you have watched it you have to do it yourself otherwise my video was wasted lol
Finally! i did it. it wasn't as easy as i anticipated... in order to fit that plastic pipe that goes into wp i had to remove both ac compressor(or what's its name) and the alternator... i think kangoo is the most complicated car with d4f engine, but now i feel proud... i used several old car jacks and one 150€ set of tools, without any special tools or torque meter... of course it would've been much easier with properly equipped garage, but it is what it is... this video was crucial in my decision to do it myself, and i did it, not because of money, but cause of the love that went into cleaning and refitting every part , also, car mechanics are notoriously fraudulent in my region... if anyone has some kangoo 1 repair manual in English ( haynes or so) feel free to contact me
Thank you for the comment and really pleased it went well. Really sorry for the delay in replying but CZcams had put your message into another folder that I didn't see.
@@CoatsandGaiters no worries, thank you yet again... the car is still purring after year and a half, so i guess i did everything alright...
@@albirdie1630 well done that’s great news
i didnt quite catch that 125 degrees angula thing, the blue arrow on your 'angle meter' moved only 70 degrees, why not 125, or can you explain more what angle are we trying to set
Hi and you caught me out lol, The manual says 125° but I scare easily and feared I might snap the bolt so I didn't tighten as much. I just feared being already stretched once at manufacture I had scary visions of the bolt shearing in the crank and creating a huge amount of work to remove a snapped thread. Hope this helps.
@@CoatsandGaiters actually i read in some manual that 70 degrees (+-6) is preferable, also i read in a 'Renault Kangoo Workshop Repair Manual' that it is mandatory to change that bolt every time the belt is changed, which to me actually makes sense, given the fact that bolt is under quite a lot of stress, and also the corners get worn easily if your socket slips couple of time while rotating engine... better safe than sorry
@@albirdie1630 I totally agree but, the owner of the car is really really tight with their money and was already complaining at me for insisting on buying a branded Gates timing belt. They wanted me to put some really cheap unbranded kit on. Normally you change all such bolts that stretch under tension.
@@CoatsandGaiters another tip for you (well it's for the 'part one' but since we talk here) you should left the cap of the coolant tank on while you take off the radiator hose, then your garage wouldn't get flooded, because you'd have some time to aim the hose in the collecting tank under the car and only then remove the cap of the overflow tank... i'll take this opportunity to thank you yet again for the best quality video, i must admit, i watched several tutorials in the last couple of years and i kept postponing the belt change since it looked complicated, but only after watching your tutorial i decided to do it myself since you take the time to explain every detail. looking forward to more videos, cheers from the rainy Adriatic
@@albirdie1630 wow!! thank you so much for the compliment. It's really good to know my method is helping people. I know if I need a repair video I really need to see everything slowly and in detail otherwise it's easy to get lost on some important part. Also I have found loud music during a repair video doesn't help me lol so I've tried to make them as I would need them.