@@LylaMev Actually no. But I have not much ideas of painting. I plan on starting painting for winter. Now I collect ideas. I stopped painting in the rush hour of live. I like the old minis that don’t look so scary and brutal. So my way into minis was this first edition blood bowl by GW. I visited the Spiel in Essen regularly. There I found the rugby team from Goscinny and Uderzo from Asterix in Britain. I used it for blood bowl. That was in the 1990s. I have watched your interpretation of the devil. It looks like you are inspired by tarot cards. Are you planning a set of cards? I watched also your mug with the skull. Spontaneous i remember the issue of Too Much Coffee Man: One Cup too many. If you get your hands on it, read it. It’s funny. Sorry, I am talking too much. When I actually start painting, I plan on joining you on patreon for a lesson. And please don’t change the style of presenting your ideas. Looking forward to hearing from you soon.
I noticed similar problem with speedpaints. My solution was to gently airbrush minis with water and let them sit for few minutes. I think it's because some paint just soaks into primer leaving extra pigment behind. Also, they are AMAZING via airbrush.
Contrast paint's inconsistency makes almost every technique difficult to apply without a label: Baal Red, Imperial Fist Yellow and the like are just completely different kinds of paint than the heavy contrasting ones: They are basically great basecoats that only work well over very light colors. Given that GW separates layer paints from bases, It's surprising they haven't broken up the contrast paints into two, or even three groups, because they are just that difficult to use if you don't know the specific color's properties
Baal Red contrast paint has the same consistency as other contrast paints, but it's a lot more opaque and it meant to be used more as a base layer paint. I do think the dabbing technique worked quite well for the traditional low-opacity contrast paints/washes, so I'll probably use that in future for my mass production speed painting projects.
Baal Red, Magmadroth Orange, Flash Gitz Yellow, Sigvald Burgundy... There's an entire mini-line of paints within wave 2 of contrast paints that are meant to provide a flat, non-contrasting layer of color over white in one pass. When they first came out, GW did highlight them in their promotional materials as being part of a special sub-line without going into too much detail, but it seems they've stopped even doing that. It's kind of baffling how they continue to sell them but brush their actual use under the rug.
Interesting how GW chose to put this tutorial out so long after the introduction of this product. I guess they had to do something since other brands have really began to catch up with the quality of contrast paints.
@@Hartwig870 not exactly but you do pick up some habits on how to get consistent coats. I like to use speed paints as a base coat in a lot of things. I use a smother and remove technique that is similar to the dabbing motion but I don’t use this exact method. I just use what I found gave consistent coverage.
I've seen a lot of youtube creators recommend dabbing on contrast paints. I have to imagine GW's in-house painters probably stay pretty-well plugged in to hobby youtube and have been trying to get this change made for a while now. Now if only they'd bring back the chart showing which contrast paints pool in the recesses, and which contrast paints are meant to provide a flat one-coat color over white.
So here's what's going on in terms of the physics. Any form of wash intended to pool in recesses and create shadow works via a combination of gravity and capillary action. Gravity pulls the liquid into deeper and lower locations. Then capillary action causes the deeper wells of liquid to "suck" adjacent liquid into itself. What goes wrong with many attempts at applying washes for shading? Treating the wash too much like glazing. If you think you're using enough liquid you may not be. Without enough liquid there isn't sufficient volume for the liquid to quickly and forcefully run down into recesses. It begins drying in place too quickly. And it dries before capillary action can pull liquid away from raised (and flat) surfaces. Which leaves "coffee stains". Even with washes not intended to function as "contrast" paint, you should be using a lot of liquid initially - and then quickly dabbing away dripping excess and genuine blobs of liquid that form after settling. The dabbing application style being talked about here and in the GW video is just depositing a ton of liquid fast and forcing gravity and capillary to have an immediate effect. Getting actual Contrast-brand contrast paint to work well still does require a strategic manipulation of the liquid as you lay it down. You have to use a LOT so it has enough weight and volume to flow quickly and smoothly. But rather than just leaving it sit there (unless it's a mostly opaque color like Baal or Imperial Fist) the brush should then be used to quickly flick certain parts of the surface towards recesses and crevices. Leaving the open flatter areas smooth and glazed. Army Painter's Speedpaint avoids coffee staining by simply having so much darn medium in it, it runs like quicksilver. But that has its own oddities and strengths / weaknesses.
Contrast paints were an absolute nightmare for me for a long time, once I learned to wick away all the excess water from wetting the brush, fully loading the brush, working in sections, and working quickly then using the brush to reabsorb excess paint until it started to set, only had to reprime and repaint 30 poxwalkers to properly apply the paints after using them to learn on lol
I was mid comment about to go ACKSHULLY when you identified that the Baal Red just behaves differently. It's really one of the best contrast paints for not doing contrast - it covers so well and bright over white or bone primer, almost like an Ink. There are a few others from the GW line that behave similarly. It's a staple in my paint arsenal but Blood Angels Red is much better for that 'natural shade' effect.
Well that's something I've been doing intuitively pretty quick after I tried Contrast paints for the first time. Glad to find out it's the official way to go 😅
I recently started using contrasts myself (actually, Vallejo Xpress color; same concept, different brand). What I found what helps pooling a lot more is using contrast medium. It flowed better and did a smoother coverage
To prevent as much pooling, I lay the miniature down. Then I pull the speed paint thicker where I need the shadow. They dry so quick that it takes no time. I agree about using the dabbing technique for shading. Lyla, you have a taught me a lot and I love your videos. Thank you for helping us become better painters.
Bhaal red is very opaque, and I feel very flat. It is a vibrant red, it is almost not a contrast paint. I think better control and a 2nd bush or working in sections to control pooling/coffee staining is a better technique. I often use the coffee stain to my advantage. I either dont care and appreciate the variation if it is minimal, or I cover it with layers, shades or highlights as appropriate. What I do varies on the nature of the mini. Blasting them out for a tabletop? Contrast, details and done or one highlight after details and done. Characters, more interesting minis etc. Contrast are just a basecoat that helps a bit and informs the areas for highlights and shadows. That or as shades and filters for other colors.
Interesting timing I have to say, I've heard a lot of talk from behind the scenes about these paints and how they fit into the hobby funnel approach to how GW markets products. Essentially the marketing people were kind of pushing Contrast as a beginners product, but it's just paint and there's all sorts of ways to use it. It's not been a secret, but not exactly common knowledge, that you have to get the paint to level itself for a decent finish and I'm glad they've put out a video sbowing you how to do it, I usually just ise very short strokes but the dab is pretty interesting.
Licoln Wright said that japanese illustrators use that technique to not only speed up the coats of paint you have to apply but also gives it a nice finish. I'm glad that I've learned of said technique before watching this video which is a pleasant surprise.
I was given this advice when they originally came out from my local warhammer store employee. That being said I understand a lot of people struggle with this concept.
Duncan Rhodes, when he left GW and started his own channel, did a video on how to correctly use contrast. Apparently, the GW people were using not a ton on their brush and concentrating on specific areas one at a time, getting smooth coats with minimal pooling. In some cases, he thinned it some so it would flow better. The exact opposite of how they were publicly telling people how to use them. I thought it was interesting he had to leave GW before he could spread that knowledge.
For what it's worth, I did an Astra Militarum Sentinel with Speedpaints Camo Cloak, and on the cockpit I basically just grabbed a huge brush, loaded it up, and just put a coat on as rapidly as possible. I think it turned out great, but that may mostly be because my standards are... not necessarily the highest, I admit. My goal is just to get where a mini is going to look good at three feet from me while on the tabletop. I have zero expectation of ever winning a "best painted" award at a local event, much less at anything larger-scale.
Baal Red is the color of the Carapace of my Nids, and I applied it vie stippling and I have loved the look it has given me. Seeing this videos proves I am not bias and it is in fact a pretty smooth look.
Preface: I'm nowhere near as good a painter as Lyla! I've found that I don't get coffee stains on cloaks, dusters, long coats, etc when I use SpeedPaint 2.0. I'm probably going to get rid of most of my Contrast paints now with the exception of a few key colors. (Baal Red being one that I must keep!)
Little strokes are surely usefull for some pieces but I still feel chary now I use airbrush thinner to avoid contrast problems. It has a wider range of use!
So apparently I was the only one using contrast like this and not in strokes, and it turns out that I am right? Vindication for a thing I was unaware of!
Hi from Germany! This time the combination of learning vocabulary and painting is great. New for me was „splotchy“. Wow, I like the sound. Anybody should make a song of it. Mmh, perhaps: Splotchy or not, everyone‘s equal. Yeah, splotchy or not, everyone‘s equal. Oh, getting serious again. Thanks for the video. Before, I watched the last episode of Reginald the Vampire. Does anybody know if there will be a season 3? To me it’s the greatest vampire series since Buffy and Angel.
Tapping Vs Sweeping with speed paints and washes. You want to tap on smaller areas or on things like trim where you want colour in the middle and brighter edges , use sweeping when you want to have more pigment in the crevasses and less on the raised area.
I thought this was common sense. Paint pools where you lift your brush, if you stroke, you leave inconsistent application, if you dab, each hit, in theory, leaves better paint.
I will give IT a try with my Imperial fists contrast on vehicules, thats usually so hard to Stop from leaving brush marks on big Open areas. Praised BE the evil Overlords at Games Workshop and you for the guidance given.
It was always stated in the early days of Contrast that the recommended paint method was to use a dabbing motion but this advice sort of disappeared over the years. It doesn't help when watching videos of 'the experts' it always looked like they were brushing rather than dabbing. I think the reason the method seems to have changed is that most of the paint channels now use Contrast/Speed/Xpress etc paints not in the way that they were originally advertise ie not simply as a 1 coat answer. Good to see a video that revisits some of the earlier advice, even if it was something that was new to you.
Nice, thanks for the example, it's appreciated. To me, it doesn't look all that much different from the old dip method... just like a wash over a base coast... but I guess the idea is to get them table ready, not a super fancy paint job, right?
That is totally fair! It definitely does end up looking like a base coat with a wash, just (hopefully!) a better base coat with a wash. In next weeks video, I go over how to take this base concept and paint a miniature that is beyond table ready!
Hö?! You never had the idea of dab it on? I have noticed with my first use of contrast paints that u have denser pigment concentration where the brush leaves the mini, till that Realisation I dab my contrast paints on my minis.
I love your videos! (But, to be honest, I already did this technique. I always had problems with coffee stains and streaks - so I started doing this ages ago.)
It still looks horrible, sorry. I bought into both Citadel and new army painter contrast but nope, not for me. At best they are a base coat and shadow but more sloppy than if one uses traditional paints and washes. Wayyy too much tidying up after this kind of painting and that takes time too so there goes the bonus of speel/contrast paints imho.
Contrast paints are kind of mismarketed. They're high speed, high skill paints if you want good results out of them. You can replace a few layers of traditional shade/highlight painting with a single layer of contrast, but any mistakes stick out like a sore thumb and are way more difficult to correct than with layer paints. With that said, I've found that they're a perfect complement to oil washes, which provide effortless blends and cover up mistakes really well. You just need to add highlights and optionally some glazes for color variation afterwards.
@@brendanarmstrong7802 I'm not into painting with oils ( yet ). Guess they will serve until then as glazes over here. But for a quick result I recently tried underpainting and I feel more comfortable doing that.
Still squarespace? at least its an interesting video. I had also never heard of this technique, which is surprising since i've been using contrast paints since the beginning. but from your tests it doesn't look like it worked very well. think i'll skip it.
I do this all the time and have no problems with it. I tell all my friends and noone believes me :) But Baal Rerd is a bad test cause that one almost gives no contrast. Oh and when it didn't work for you, you didn't use enough paint, it seems.
I am very confused. This isn’t new? Plenty of people were recommending using them this way. Not trying to be contrary but I have clear memories of this.
@@LylaMev maybe it’s a false memory but I swear Tale of Painters at least mentioned it. And some social media reviews. No big deal in any case. I agree it’s not something GW has mentioned before!
This technique was new to me, had you ever heard it before?
@@LylaMev Actually no. But I have not much ideas of painting. I plan on starting painting for winter. Now I collect ideas. I stopped painting in the rush hour of live.
I like the old minis that don’t look so scary and brutal. So my way into minis was this first edition blood bowl by GW. I visited the Spiel in Essen regularly.
There I found the rugby team from Goscinny and Uderzo from Asterix in Britain. I used it for blood bowl. That was in the 1990s.
I have watched your interpretation of the devil. It looks like you are inspired by tarot cards. Are you planning a set of cards?
I watched also your mug with the skull. Spontaneous i remember the issue of Too Much Coffee Man: One Cup too many. If you get your hands on it, read it. It’s funny.
Sorry, I am talking too much. When I actually start painting, I plan on joining you on patreon for a lesson. And please don’t change the style of presenting your ideas. Looking forward to hearing from you soon.
Figured something similar on my own, just used less paint on brush.
I noticed similar problem with speedpaints. My solution was to gently airbrush minis with water and let them sit for few minutes. I think it's because some paint just soaks into primer leaving extra pigment behind.
Also, they are AMAZING via airbrush.
Contrast paint's inconsistency makes almost every technique difficult to apply without a label: Baal Red, Imperial Fist Yellow and the like are just completely different kinds of paint than the heavy contrasting ones: They are basically great basecoats that only work well over very light colors.
Given that GW separates layer paints from bases, It's surprising they haven't broken up the contrast paints into two, or even three groups, because they are just that difficult to use if you don't know the specific color's properties
the difference between her application of baal red compared to the other colors was so significant.
Baal Red contrast paint has the same consistency as other contrast paints, but it's a lot more opaque and it meant to be used more as a base layer paint. I do think the dabbing technique worked quite well for the traditional low-opacity contrast paints/washes, so I'll probably use that in future for my mass production speed painting projects.
Baal Red, Magmadroth Orange, Flash Gitz Yellow, Sigvald Burgundy... There's an entire mini-line of paints within wave 2 of contrast paints that are meant to provide a flat, non-contrasting layer of color over white in one pass. When they first came out, GW did highlight them in their promotional materials as being part of a special sub-line without going into too much detail, but it seems they've stopped even doing that. It's kind of baffling how they continue to sell them but brush their actual use under the rug.
I kinda figured this out on my own. Glad to see people are figuring it out
Interesting how GW chose to put this tutorial out so long after the introduction of this product. I guess they had to do something since other brands have really began to catch up with the quality of contrast paints.
I'm wondering how many other people have heard this?
You'd figure this out almost immediately if you actually experimented with the product, instead of just smoothbraining it.
@@Hartwig870 not exactly but you do pick up some habits on how to get consistent coats. I like to use speed paints as a base coat in a lot of things. I use a smother and remove technique that is similar to the dabbing motion but I don’t use this exact method. I just use what I found gave consistent coverage.
@@Hartwig870 Thanks for the comment! But I must know, does your negativity make you feel better?
I've seen a lot of youtube creators recommend dabbing on contrast paints. I have to imagine GW's in-house painters probably stay pretty-well plugged in to hobby youtube and have been trying to get this change made for a while now.
Now if only they'd bring back the chart showing which contrast paints pool in the recesses, and which contrast paints are meant to provide a flat one-coat color over white.
Great experiment! You do an excellent job of documenting your process here.
This video is great, I had no idea about the "recommended" application. Appreciate your review!
So here's what's going on in terms of the physics. Any form of wash intended to pool in recesses and create shadow works via a combination of gravity and capillary action. Gravity pulls the liquid into deeper and lower locations. Then capillary action causes the deeper wells of liquid to "suck" adjacent liquid into itself. What goes wrong with many attempts at applying washes for shading? Treating the wash too much like glazing. If you think you're using enough liquid you may not be. Without enough liquid there isn't sufficient volume for the liquid to quickly and forcefully run down into recesses. It begins drying in place too quickly. And it dries before capillary action can pull liquid away from raised (and flat) surfaces. Which leaves "coffee stains".
Even with washes not intended to function as "contrast" paint, you should be using a lot of liquid initially - and then quickly dabbing away dripping excess and genuine blobs of liquid that form after settling. The dabbing application style being talked about here and in the GW video is just depositing a ton of liquid fast and forcing gravity and capillary to have an immediate effect.
Getting actual Contrast-brand contrast paint to work well still does require a strategic manipulation of the liquid as you lay it down. You have to use a LOT so it has enough weight and volume to flow quickly and smoothly. But rather than just leaving it sit there (unless it's a mostly opaque color like Baal or Imperial Fist) the brush should then be used to quickly flick certain parts of the surface towards recesses and crevices. Leaving the open flatter areas smooth and glazed.
Army Painter's Speedpaint avoids coffee staining by simply having so much darn medium in it, it runs like quicksilver. But that has its own oddities and strengths / weaknesses.
Contrast paints were an absolute nightmare for me for a long time, once I learned to wick away all the excess water from wetting the brush, fully loading the brush, working in sections, and working quickly then using the brush to reabsorb excess paint until it started to set, only had to reprime and repaint 30 poxwalkers to properly apply the paints after using them to learn on lol
I was mid comment about to go ACKSHULLY when you identified that the Baal Red just behaves differently. It's really one of the best contrast paints for not doing contrast - it covers so well and bright over white or bone primer, almost like an Ink. There are a few others from the GW line that behave similarly. It's a staple in my paint arsenal but Blood Angels Red is much better for that 'natural shade' effect.
The red looks fantastic. Keep up the good work.
Well that's something I've been doing intuitively pretty quick after I tried Contrast paints for the first time. Glad to find out it's the official way to go 😅
it is a super cool model, awesome result!
I recently started using contrasts myself (actually, Vallejo Xpress color; same concept, different brand). What I found what helps pooling a lot more is using contrast medium. It flowed better and did a smoother coverage
To prevent as much pooling, I lay the miniature down. Then I pull the speed paint thicker where I need the shadow. They dry so quick that it takes no time. I agree about using the dabbing technique for shading. Lyla, you have a taught me a lot and I love your videos. Thank you for helping us become better painters.
I have never seen lay the miniature down, thank you!
Bhaal red is very opaque, and I feel very flat. It is a vibrant red, it is almost not a contrast paint.
I think better control and a 2nd bush or working in sections to control pooling/coffee staining is a better technique. I often use the coffee stain to my advantage. I either dont care and appreciate the variation if it is minimal, or I cover it with layers, shades or highlights as appropriate.
What I do varies on the nature of the mini. Blasting them out for a tabletop? Contrast, details and done or one highlight after details and done.
Characters, more interesting minis etc. Contrast are just a basecoat that helps a bit and informs the areas for highlights and shadows. That or as shades and filters for other colors.
Reminds me of the old "dipping" technique from way back in the day. high volume of paint, let the natural pool dry into the recesses.
Heck yeah, new Lyla Mev video! I love your stuff.
Thank you!
I saw that contrast dabbing video too and wondered if it would really work. I'm glad you tried it out for me :D
Interesting timing I have to say, I've heard a lot of talk from behind the scenes about these paints and how they fit into the hobby funnel approach to how GW markets products.
Essentially the marketing people were kind of pushing Contrast as a beginners product, but it's just paint and there's all sorts of ways to use it.
It's not been a secret, but not exactly common knowledge, that you have to get the paint to level itself for a decent finish and I'm glad they've put out a video sbowing you how to do it, I usually just ise very short strokes but the dab is pretty interesting.
Licoln Wright said that japanese illustrators use that technique to not only speed up the coats of paint you have to apply but also gives it a nice finish. I'm glad that I've learned of said technique before watching this video which is a pleasant surprise.
I was given this advice when they originally came out from my local warhammer store employee. That being said I understand a lot of people struggle with this concept.
Duncan Rhodes, when he left GW and started his own channel, did a video on how to correctly use contrast. Apparently, the GW people were using not a ton on their brush and concentrating on specific areas one at a time, getting smooth coats with minimal pooling. In some cases, he thinned it some so it would flow better. The exact opposite of how they were publicly telling people how to use them. I thought it was interesting he had to leave GW before he could spread that knowledge.
Why would they not want you to know this? Do you think GW have some evil scheme to make you paint badly?
@@jacket2848just slobbing it on there uses more paint = buy more paint sooner. Yes, GW is that greedy.
I accidentally discovered using them that way. Less is more, and do small areas at a time.
How can you not be a Skaven fan! *cries in ratfolk*
the ven diagram between my preferred paint subject (pretty ladies) and Skaven, has 0 overlap. they are just two separate circles!
For what it's worth, I did an Astra Militarum Sentinel with Speedpaints Camo Cloak, and on the cockpit I basically just grabbed a huge brush, loaded it up, and just put a coat on as rapidly as possible. I think it turned out great, but that may mostly be because my standards are... not necessarily the highest, I admit. My goal is just to get where a mini is going to look good at three feet from me while on the tabletop. I have zero expectation of ever winning a "best painted" award at a local event, much less at anything larger-scale.
Baal Red is the color of the Carapace of my Nids, and I applied it vie stippling and I have loved the look it has given me. Seeing this videos proves I am not bias and it is in fact a pretty smooth look.
Preface: I'm nowhere near as good a painter as Lyla!
I've found that I don't get coffee stains on cloaks, dusters, long coats, etc when I use SpeedPaint 2.0. I'm probably going to get rid of most of my Contrast paints now with the exception of a few key colors. (Baal Red being one that I must keep!)
Thank you for the new content Lyla!
thank you!
I wonder if pre-shading with the dabbing might add a lot more contrast with the baal red.
baal red is a single pigment contrast paint i usually use it as "base" then shade and higlight afterward
I've done a zenithal highlight and applied baal red with a brush and airbrush and it's usually too opaque to really notice
Little strokes are surely usefull for some pieces but I still feel chary now I use airbrush thinner to avoid contrast problems. It has a wider range of use!
Interesting technique, nice tip.
So apparently I was the only one using contrast like this and not in strokes, and it turns out that I am right?
Vindication for a thing I was unaware of!
Hi from Germany! This time the combination of learning vocabulary and painting is great. New for me was „splotchy“. Wow, I like the sound. Anybody should make a song of it. Mmh, perhaps: Splotchy or not, everyone‘s equal. Yeah, splotchy or not, everyone‘s equal. Oh, getting serious again. Thanks for the video. Before, I watched the last episode of Reginald the Vampire. Does anybody know if there will be a season 3?
To me it’s the greatest vampire series since Buffy and Angel.
Thanks for the comment!
Tapping Vs Sweeping with speed paints and washes. You want to tap on smaller areas or on things like trim where you want colour in the middle and brighter edges , use sweeping when you want to have more pigment in the crevasses and less on the raised area.
I highly recommend using a satin paints/primer if you want to be able to tap and sweep
I use tiny short brush strokes, basically a dabbing motion. I love them for basically everything on the model.
Do you notice a difference!?
@@LylaMev I don't have any issues with them, never really have.
This style and info of this video got a subscribe from me! Very thorough.
Thank you!
Interesting, thank you for the video!
The correct way to use contrast? Any way you choose
Game changer! Subscribed
Thank you!
I thought this was common sense. Paint pools where you lift your brush, if you stroke, you leave inconsistent application, if you dab, each hit, in theory, leaves better paint.
I will give IT a try with my Imperial fists contrast on vehicules, thats usually so hard to Stop from leaving brush marks on big Open areas. Praised BE the evil Overlords at Games Workshop and you for the guidance given.
It was always stated in the early days of Contrast that the recommended paint method was to use a dabbing motion but this advice sort of disappeared over the years. It doesn't help when watching videos of 'the experts' it always looked like they were brushing rather than dabbing. I think the reason the method seems to have changed is that most of the paint channels now use Contrast/Speed/Xpress etc paints not in the way that they were originally advertise ie not simply as a 1 coat answer. Good to see a video that revisits some of the earlier advice, even if it was something that was new to you.
That is so interesting! I jumped onto the contrast paint train late, so perhaps thats why a few people have said they heard of this while I never had.
While you still have just a little less splotches, you have dramatically less brush strokes. Really good tip for sure, though.
I am now a Lyla simp
Try a gloss / semi gloss { NOT matte } clear coat and let it dry before contrast paints & washes
You might be surprised
oh my god, I haven't heard that tip in FOREVER.
That red looks thick as hell compared to the rest. 😅 If you told me it was reg acrylic, I'd believe you.
Huh. I guess I should try that
Nice, thanks for the example, it's appreciated. To me, it doesn't look all that much different from the old dip method... just like a wash over a base coast... but I guess the idea is to get them table ready, not a super fancy paint job, right?
That is totally fair! It definitely does end up looking like a base coat with a wash, just (hopefully!) a better base coat with a wash. In next weeks video, I go over how to take this base concept and paint a miniature that is beyond table ready!
@@LylaMev Looking forward to it, thanks!
Doesn't a lot of it depend on the level of viscosity?
Baal Red is the contrast for vibrant capes. That was a good video.
Baal red is so good! It just was unfortunate that it was *too good* for this video.
Thank you Lyla, here's a tip for the day.
Thank you!
Hö?! You never had the idea of dab it on? I have noticed with my first use of contrast paints that u have denser pigment concentration where the brush leaves the mini, till that Realisation I dab my contrast paints on my minis.
1. reference, 2. it helps with different paint opacities. Red, for example, is very translucent, so painting it over white gives a more vibrant red!
I love all of Lyla Mev's videos!
Thank you! It means a lot
Ball red, red as balls
I’m not angry that GW has made this contrast paint retcon, I’m just angry with how they did it. This doesn’t make me anti-dab. 😏
dabchop?
I love your videos! (But, to be honest, I already did this technique. I always had problems with coffee stains and streaks - so I started doing this ages ago.)
Glad you figured it out on your own!
Way too much paint on the brush. No room for streaking with all that glob going on at once.
Still way too expensive....
I know! I definitely categorize it as a "magic color."
It still looks horrible, sorry. I bought into both Citadel and new army painter contrast but nope, not for me. At best they are a base coat and shadow but more sloppy than if one uses traditional paints and washes. Wayyy too much tidying up after this kind of painting and that takes time too so there goes the bonus of speel/contrast paints imho.
Contrast paints are kind of mismarketed. They're high speed, high skill paints if you want good results out of them. You can replace a few layers of traditional shade/highlight painting with a single layer of contrast, but any mistakes stick out like a sore thumb and are way more difficult to correct than with layer paints. With that said, I've found that they're a perfect complement to oil washes, which provide effortless blends and cover up mistakes really well. You just need to add highlights and optionally some glazes for color variation afterwards.
@@brendanarmstrong7802 I'm not into painting with oils ( yet ). Guess they will serve until then as glazes over here. But for a quick result I recently tried underpainting and I feel more comfortable doing that.
Eh this method is bs, it is impossible to be precise with "dabbing".
Still squarespace? at least its an interesting video. I had also never heard of this technique, which is surprising since i've been using contrast paints since the beginning. but from your tests it doesn't look like it worked very well. think i'll skip it.
I always love your comments.
Baal red over slapchop. Thank me later
I do this all the time and have no problems with it. I tell all my friends and noone believes me :) But Baal Rerd is a bad test cause that one almost gives no contrast. Oh and when it didn't work for you, you didn't use enough paint, it seems.
No. Just, no.
I am very confused. This isn’t new? Plenty of people were recommending using them this way. Not trying to be contrary but I have clear memories of this.
It was the first time I've heard it!
@@LylaMev maybe it’s a false memory but I swear Tale of Painters at least mentioned it. And some social media reviews. No big deal in any case. I agree it’s not something GW has mentioned before!
I really dig your vibe❤
No matter how you apply Baal Red it really doesn’t leave tide marks unless the coat is really thin. It just has a high level of opacity and coverage.
I knoooowwww. I realized it too late. But it's gorgeous!
@@LylaMev Agreed. It may be the best paint in the Citadel contrast range.
Great video thanks for sharing your thoughts on the technique… very insightful 🇬🇧🫡👍🍻