How to change Motor Mounts Ford Mustang 1994-2004 Mach 1 Cobra, GT, k member, headers oil pan gasket
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- čas přidán 4. 10. 2019
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Motor mounts sold here (it will give you the option to verify compatibility)
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2005+ Mustang Motor mounts install • How to change Motor Mo...
This video shows how to replace motor mounts. On the 2V cars you may be able to simply lift the engine (I'll mention it in the video), but this video involves dropping the K member - Jak na to + styl
Dude you have every video I need for what I'm doing to my stang. Simple and straight to the point. Thanks! 😎
Nice video. I was contemplating swapping to a tubular k-member and some long tubes on my '01 Cobra... this video will make it much easier when the time comes.
mustangthrall Yes, this video is only a few steps shy of dropping the k member. I may explain removing the steering rack and make a video on just the k member with these other clips
I can tell this guy does shit right and makes sure everything is proper when he made sure the writing on the oil cap is right side up
I tip my hat off to you Danny, you made that look painless to say the least. That was a big job. Nice work sir.
Kris Stathakopoulos Thank you. On a 2V it would have probably been easier. It all went well otherwise, so I’m happy.
Great video. How do you learn to become so mechanical? This is definitely an advanced level job. Great work.
Eddie Porro Project by project- and happy to share with others 🙌🏼
I just did motor mounts on my 88 and lets just say its way less involved! 😁
Excellent Video!! Thanks!
They have different part numbers, but pretty sure you can use the OEM convertible motor mounts on coupes. Supposedly built stronger with added weight.
Joseph Bentley Wow, that’s interesting!
On foxbodies you can for sure have done it.
do the rearward 15mm bolts use clip nuts like the 18s? I ask because three of mine came off easily, but a fourth was stuck on. I tried using a breaker and it appeared to break free, making an odd sound. Now I can turn it with a good amount of force, but the bolt doesn't get any looser and it makes the same binding sound as it turns. I'm thinking I bent or broke the clip of a clip nut (if that's what it is), or something worse.
Great video Danny I just did that same job it's not easy by yourself lol
Great video Danny,
Justin Merrill Thank you 👊🏼
I'm dreading this lol , not many around me that can help but my oil pan is basically touching metal to metal. Not sure if it's because of the mounts or what... but will either try to get it done my self or find a shop to do them pretty sure that's going to cost me though.
I have an intermittent shake at idle. I never thought it would be mounts because it doesn't happen really when I'm in drive. Only when in park...it is more of a shake than a vibration. I checked for misfires...nothing....rpms stay the same when I feel the shake. Could it be mounts?
Completely dreading this job i need to do. Might as well get headers installed at the same time:)
Jarred JROD definitely!
@@dannyjohnsonsgaragedo u have a video of adding headers?
@@mmorgan901 I do for the 3V, which would be about the same process once you follow the currently video to get the k member down. czcams.com/video/RFebB4sS5qc/video.htmlsi=w-m9fi4VjoMYEB_1
Great video as always. What’s a sign to be aware of when going bad?
Mayjor Maynard You’ll feel a knocking (as in a rocking back and forth from the engine moving and not being secure) as well as some vibrations in the steering wheel. But be aware other things such as a worn pivot ball for the clutch fork and any clutch components out of balance may also cause vibrations. It’s kinda hard to diagnose sometimes since multiple things cause the same result.
Question: Doing this on an 02 GT. Do I need to remove the alternator and drop the K member if my plan is to use a block of wood to push the motor up by the oil pan? I'll be doing it on base with access to a finger lift. So I'll have a few pole jacks to push the engine up with. I've seen others do that but not sure if it was a newedge or not.
On the 2v you might be able to lift the engine without dropping the k member. You can try just lifting on the oil pan, just be careful and see if you need to mess with the k or not
Welp this is the 6th different video of yours I've had to consult for a sanity check or because i forgot what i took apart months ago lol, tyvm
So I have a 2004 gt, and I was wondering if I use the engine support bar and drop the k member will I have enough room to remove the oil pan? Really don’t want to take it to a shop and I don’t have a cherry picker. Any help is appreciated
Yes, at worst you have to drop the k member down entirely to get the full access to the oil pan since the pick up tube goes down into the oil pan. If possible, it’s a good idea to loosen the k member bolts but try to leave them in so you don’t have to line up the k member for reinstall. If not, no big deal, but a second set of hands really helps
Hey got a serious question if I’m trying to take off an oil pan from a big block engine should I take off the crossmember with the engine support bar? Or should I just take out the engine as a whole and take it off? Any advice would be much appreciated!
It would probably be better in the end to pull the engine if you have the tools
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thank you I kinda figured this but appreciate it!
Thanks for the video, I’m mid build and b my car and having to drop the K member next. You didn’t have to disconnect the power steering lines?! I’m working on an 03 Mach 1. Curious though... Thanks in advance for any input/response! Once again too, great video.
TheAlexk780 I only dropped the k a few inches, so I didn’t. I have dropped the k entirely before, so from that point (depending on what you are doing), your best bet is to disconnect the steering rack via the two bolts found going directly into the steering rack and leave it tired up out of the way. That way you don’t need to disconnect lines
Danny Johnson thanks for the response. That’s a good approach. I’m trying to get at my stock manifolds so I can swap them out for mid length headers. Basically have broken down the whole front. As I just did the x2 ball joints, caster camber plates, struts etc. Just trying to think what’s the best way to drop the K out without dismantling like literally “everything”. Not trying to replace all the fluids and have the mess with power steering rack etc. where did you get your bridge across the motor though?
Would this be the same process to replace the oil pan gasket?
Yes. You will have to drop that k member down pretty far for the oil pan to clear the oil pick up tube
Is there a difference in weight between the 2 different sets of motor mounts?
Not much unless you compare to the “solid motor mounts” option which is basically just the brackets
👍 cool man! You wouldn't happen to have a video on how to change both belts on a terminator?
Brian Poaches If you have the stock lower pulley you’ll need to remove it (it’s reverse thread, so you “tighten it” to take it off-meaning turn it clockwise). czcams.com/video/1JYtqYm8v3U/video.html
You have a terminator. Lucky bastard
You have any experience with the ebay polyurethane motor mounts? I just ordered a set for $60 hope they arent to stiff
Sorry, I don’t. I went with OEM and my cousin used solid mounts which I don’t recommend
So you dont have to plumb and square the stock kmember when reinstalling? Is that just for aftermarket k members?
It’s best to lift it back where it was (even looking at there the bolt head marks/wear is) and get an alignment afterwards. If you don’t have to drop the k completely it’s nice to drop it slightly and leave the bolts
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage What if I am installing headers and motor mounts and removing and painting the stock k member. I have to completely remove it for the headers anyway. I already painted where the 2 k member bolts are on the sides, but I want to paint the under side and what I can reach of the engine bay side of the front clip. I saw on another youtube video a tip from someone doing a tubular k member is they drilled an 1/8" hole between the 2 two main bolts on each side to have a point of reference if they ever needed to drop it again and not have too measure the alignment. They just slide the 1/8" drill bits in to get the exact location again. On the aftermarket k members there is a flat section between the 2 main side bolts to drill but the stock k member is curved and there is a gap between that and the front clip. I am thinking about drilling 1/8" holes between, or right in front of, the two rear most bolts on each side. I have my entire suspension and steering removed. Energy suspension master bushing kit going in. I do not think I am gonna get a tubular k member ever or aftermarket control arms for coil overs either. I do have some seeping (184k miles) with the oil pan gasket and oil filter housing gasket. Besides those and the headers and motor mounts is there anything else I should do while I have the k member out?
Could i unbolt the motor mounts to adjust the height of the motor down so i can get to my top starter bolt?
You probably can, but here is how with an extension you can do it czcams.com/video/tqw_qiPaNsM/video.html
Otherwise removing the exhaust is the best way czcams.com/video/fypcqADk440/video.html
What is the best MM to use for street / strip
Jamessr23 I’ve installed solid ones which are a little too stiff with no insulation, poly work and are you best bet for availability. I had to search for the oem ones
@dannyjohnsonsgarage Im trying to replace the engine mount on a 2000 ford mustang using an engine support bar after replacing the motor mounts the engine sits even on both sides, the Passenger side is flush with the K member, and the drive side is 1/2 inch above the k member and advise on what could be causing this issue.
There are more than one hole in the k member that the motor mount stud could accidentally go into. Make sure it’s in the oval slit holes on both sides.
Correct and they are on the correct hole I can send you a picture of it?
Why would the passages side sit correct but the driver side not sit flush
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage let me know if you would to see
Danny I have a 2002 GT. Had a heater core hose pop off last night. Fixed it and then noticed motor on one side was low. Passenger mount is toast and the safety is broken. Is it that hard to do it at home ? And mines a 2V not a 4V like yours. Is it easier on mine ?
Yeah, I did this in my garage. You can use an engine hoist in place of the support bar and on the 2V might be able to lift the engine high enough to get them in without dropping the K member
Danny Johnson’s Garage Great thanks! Appreciate your help
Did you have access to the exhaust manifold while doing this job?
Mostly. When I have done headers in the past and needed to drop the entire exhaust I disconnected the steering rack and dropped the k member entirely. It’s not much more work at that point
The Master at work again. Will be doing mine soon since they are the original ones and been there for 162,000 kms. What's the best ones to buy for my 2002 Cobra Danny? Have to get from USA of course. None here in Oz... :(
I searched for the oem ford ones and found them at late model restoration. Otherwise there are a lot of aftermarket ones that are mostly poly mounts. Any should be fine as long as they aren’t super cheap, and I would not recommend the solid ones that don’t have any rubber/insulation
2002 Cobra? I guess you have one of the Tickford conversion Cobras? If so, how are they?
@@anthonystrickland9870 I suppose they are like any other. Jyst steering on the "right" side. Some hundred or so changes (majority small) but goes well. I know a few now who have them.
@@anthonystrickland9870, love it mate. Wish it had a Terminator engine though.
Does this also include a v6? or is it specifically for the ones in the title?
WorldWideGamer Yes it the same process- and the engine is smaller on the v6 so you might be able to just lift without dropping the k member when you get to the part where it talks about that in the video and the engine is supported by the bar
Hey danny, I just posted a vid of my cobra that we spoke about. Let me know your thought on the engine noise, as well as the displacement of the KB. I contacted them and they confirmed that it's a 2.2, but it looks bigger...
Don Johnson That definitely doesn’t look like a 2.2 to me on the snout. Maybe it’s a 2.2 case with the snout of another one (or maybe a 2.4L?). The tick does sound valvetrain related, but even a blown out spark plug or rod knock can sound like that, so you’ll want to dig a little deeper and remove cam covers or listen with some equipment/compression test, etc. I hear some squeaking too likely from the clutch or maybe a idler pulley bearing. You can remove the outer belt and run it real quick to see if the noise stops.
The airbag had either been painted or is from a 94-98 with gray interior. Looks like a lot of mix and match parts on that car for sure.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage oh it's a little can of worms lol. I think it's an oem air bag, its painted gloss white smh. The # on the casing indicates a 2.2, but the snout doesnt add up. The squeaking is the pulley I'm pretty sure. I'm going to take it to a local mustang shop "mustang magic" for a diagnosis. I found some aviator heads for $400...what do you think?
Don Johnson If they are good heads, and from an aviator that’s awesome. Most likely DC heads, which if they are have better cooling and 9 thread too
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage he said the left head is DC and the right is DB...are those the ones I would be looking for? Also, are the cams the same?
Will this be the same process on a 98 cobra?
Yes
Does anyone know where i can find a video for the 2000 v6 base model convertible? Or is it the same location/process? Trying to get an estimate on how long it will take to do the job as well
It’s the same, but the engine is lighter. The alternator is not at the center, so you’ll want to use a different lift point like a stud for the timing cover
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage do you think its possible to just lift the engine with a jack? I dont have an engine lift
Yes, just use a block of wood on the oil pan so it doesn’t dent the pan. On the v6 you might be able to get the motor mounts out as soon as you lift so you might need to drop the k member and suspension
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I’ve never worked on a mustang before. How do you drop the k member and suspension? And is it difficult to return to normal?
@@The_Mechanix The k member cradles the engine. It’s all in this video for the most part
Where do those wires run to that are secured to the motor mounts?
They are grounds going to the body of the car
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thanks, working on my 98 cobra. Was doing a engine swap with a 97 cobra engine. The 98 was no good. An i let it sit to long some bolts lost but replaced, and I have this wire i remembered it came from underneath the motor mount. Also if you don't mind answering another question. On the wiring harness that runs to your fuel rails, there is a similar wire. that runs to the alternator, and another that goes to the starter, and another that runs along where the 02 sensors plug in the exhausts, opposite of the starter mounts, the driver side.my question is where does that bolt to motor mount? I've bolted it to one of the power steering bolts. Sorry its so long^^
This will show you the ground areas used. czcams.com/video/0j6HM11D2dw/video.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thank you again. Big help.
Damn so much work for just a engine mount lol, but oh well ill probably get some good quality motor mounts and long tube headers when changing those
Hey Dan your smart when it comes mustangs. So yesterday I had filmed a 98 mustang gt and put it on my channel. But the guy that was selling it said it's a 98 gt cobra edition. You think you can look at it on my channel and see if it's really a cobra?
Ok. That is 100% a Mustang GT. Nothing to do with a cobra- he has no idea what he’s saying. 2V engine, GT body parts... final answer B) Mustang GT. There is no such thing as a Cobra edition GT. It also has some kind of strange cam or even sounds like it’s missing or low on compression. I’d do a compression check before buying it. Even with cams that car would struggle to make over 200hp at the wheels.
MOPAR ARTS HEMI392 The Vin for a GT will have an X for the 8th digit in as well.
MOPAR ARTS HEMI392 czcams.com/video/BRrxYycTTak/video.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage yeah I noticed that by the look of the bumper. I thinks its just an upbadged gt
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage yeah I noticed that by the look of the bumper. I thinks its just an upbadged gt
What's up with your throttle body/ plate?
3xzsucof Previous owner installed a TransDapt throttle body spaced and 65mm bbl throttle body. Wish he left it stock
Hey Danny I had a question for you about the video
Yeah?
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage so I have to replace the header gaskets and I understand I have to basically do everything you did in this one but I was curious if it was an absolute must to take off the motor mounts?
@@domm8673 it will be much easier to replace them with the mounts out of the way and you’re already there, so yeah. Take them off. I’d get new ones while you’re at it
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage cool thank you so much for your time I really appreciate it!!!
For some reason I thought you and justin Johnson was the same person .
I don’t blame you. We are twins czcams.com/video/jjudmCt4HB4/video.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ohhhhhh ok I get it.
Is this a mach 1?
Yes
What a pain in the ass
Yep. 2005+ is a lot easier