The Inconvenient Truth About Getting Good at Climbing
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- čas přidán 15. 06. 2024
- In today's Lattice Podcast, Coach Josh Hadley ( / hadley_joshua ) sits down with Dr Simon Fryer ( / simon-fryer-95664b42 ) to discuss the challenges of testing rock climbers, highlighting the differences between climbing and other sports.
Dr Simon Fryer is a Senior Lecturer in Sport & Exercise Physiology at the University of Gloucestershire, with a PhD in biomedical science. His background is in sports, exercise, and biomedical science, with a specialist interest in cardiovascular and cardiometabolic physiology. As an exercise physiologist, he delivers a range of Sports and Exercise Science courses and his research focuses on the impact of exercise and physical activity on health, disease, and sports performance, specifically concerning the cardiovascular and cardiometabolic systems. He has also delivered many talks on the importance of physical activity and health, such as his TEDx Cheltenham talk "Are You Sitting Comfortably?" ( • Are You Sitting Comfor... )
Key topics include:
• Health benefits of climbing
• Misguided information in the climbing community
• The inconvenient truth about getting good at climbing
• Importance of base training and lower limb strength
• Advice for pursuing an academic or research route
We also cover:
• Importance of peripheral adaptations in climbing and the role of aerobic fitness
• Current best practices for testing climbers, including occlusion tests and near-infrared spectroscopy
• Vision for the future of climbing performance testing, including the use of big data and technology
So whether you’re a sports science advocate, or simply curious to hear more of the science behind climbing, take a seat and enjoy today’s podcast through Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more!
The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney ( deuceishiph...) , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project. - Sport
0:00 - Introductions
3:42 - Physiology of climbing and how it's different (peripheral/muscular vs central/cardiovascular)
9:25 - Challenges of climbing sports science
15:43 - Diving into energy systems for climbing: peripheral vs central
27:38 - Base training for climbing: current research and challenges
37:57 - Discussion: current best practices for testing climbers
46:53 - Thoughts on future advances in testing (available data, machine learning)
50:30 - Gaps in research: women's physiology and effects of climbing on long-term health
1:03:43 - What the climbing community underestimates: base training and lower leg power
1:09:13 - THE INCONVENIENT TRUTH: it takes a lot of time to get good and build the adaptations for climbing (also deliberate practice, good foundation/base mileage)
1:15:15 - Nutritional supplements & cardio/endurance
1:19:27 - Advice for pursuing research: collaborate with others, look to applied research (work with industry)
1:24:59 - Sprint Lab plug + Outro
Thank you 🙏
Get a couple of good microphones that you can lend to podcast guests. Was really hard to follow the conversation...joshs microphone really loud and clear and simons microphone muffled and quiet. The information got lost for me a bit because i had to concentrate so much on what simon was saying.
Hi Roman, thank you for this feedback. Unfortunately, some of the guests we feature on our podcasts are recorded remotely, not using our equipment. We appreciate all feedback and have invested in high-quality audio, which hopefully can be noticed when listening to our podcast host Josh's audio. We will continue to work to try and resolve this issue further. 😀
I wish there were timestamps
I gotchu
0:00 - Introductions
3:42 - Physiology of climbing and how it's different (peripheral/muscular vs central/cardiovascular)
9:25 - Challenges of climbing sports science
15:43 - Diving into energy systems for climbing: peripheral vs central
27:38 - Base training for climbing: current research and challenges
37:57 - Discussion: current best practices for testing climbers
46:53 - Thoughts on future advances in testing (available data, machine learning)
50:30 - Gaps in research: women's physiology and effects of climbing on long-term health
1:03:43 - What the climbing community underestimates: base training and lower leg power
1:09:13 - THE INCONVENIENT TRUTH: it takes a lot of time to get good and build the adaptations for climbing (also deliberate practice, good foundation/base mileage)
1:15:15 - Nutritional supplements & cardio/endurance
1:19:27 - Advice for pursuing research: collaborate with others, look to applied research (work with industry)
1:24:59 - Sprint Lab plug + Outro
Thank you for chapter markers!
someone summarize the click bait for me
There are no shortcuts 😂
would be awesome to get some subtitles added. a bit hard to follow for ESL folks. Interesting talk
Hey Dmitry. If you expand the description box and scroll down, you'll see the option to view the transcript. This should be accurate. ☺️
Way too wordy and feels like listening to Josh trying to flex his knoweldge from his degree. Please word this in to actual real world usable/practical information and/or make a habit of summarising things for the lay person. Thanks
Thanks for the feedback! ☺️ We'll bare this in mind for the next one!
Not going to spend nearly 90 minutes to answer the question in the title.
My guess having watched 1 second: Simon Fryer (whoever he is) is about to say that genetics limit climbing potential.
Can I suggest you to check the timestamps that are mentioned in other comments, so you can verify if you assomption is correct or not...? Also, since they are timestamps, you can listen to everything but not necessarily in one go...
Because commenting something without having taking at least a bit of time to listen to the subject, isn't the smartest thing, in my point of view.
My comment was directed to the creators of the video. They have timestamped their content effectively in the past. Relying on viewers to do it for them is a lazy way of driving engagement.
I shared an inconvenient truth about climbing performance flippantly to reflect my perceived lack of effort from Lattice.
And to be totally clear - I'm a subscriber and a user of their services for a couple of years.
@@dmizzle73 Genetics can be a factor but never the entire one. I think, based on the podcast and what i learned from my practice of different sports, with also watching athletes from different discipline doing their training. that how many years you trained and how you trained matters more than genetics. How much time you dedicated to the basics, to the point, it had become a second breathing..
I could take several example where some high level athletes who have parents that were top athletes in their discipline, yet the children, who have the good genes aren't able to perform as high as their parents.
And in the end, your assumption was wrong, because he said that the limiting factor, in his opinion, is time. It takes a long time to be good at climbing, really good.
But i'd say it's the same for every sport, especially at high level.
@@dmizzle73 Good for you to have use their services for couple of years, i'm sure it was helpful.
Can i ask you a question: can you watch the video collaboration between Janja Garnbrett and Natacha Oceane (available here on YT), and tell me if you did some lower body training like it's shown in the video?
Not doubting the abiliy of Lattices coaches, not at all. It's more to make a comparison, to see if you only did what they show in their videos or not. I don't need details. I'm more of a matter of curiosity and understanding the differences!
@@legolindirteso9430 wow, did you learn that it takes time (or even a long time) to get good at climbing? The inconvenient truth of getting better at anything is time. It's hardly an insight.
Look up 'Flippant' - disrespectful, shallow or lacking seriousness. And I ticked off all 3 by guessing on incomplete information - I knew there was a high probablility of being wrong.
We're not helping each other by going on. I know my time is better served considering other content for 90mins but if you're unfamiliar go for it.