Chemical Dipping Removes Years Of Paint And Rust From Vehicles | Insider Cars
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- čas přidán 20. 06. 2024
- Chemical dipping is a three-step process that removes paint and rust from car frames, bodies, and ancillary parts so that they can be restored.
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Chemical Dipping Removes Years Of Paint And Rust From Vehicles | Insider Cars - Auta a dopravní prostředky
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It's extremely rare for a company to publicly and willingly give out pricing like this, kudos to these guys! You can get a lot more actual customers this way instead of inquiries, when we know exactly what we're getting and how much it'd cost.
Agreed. When he said "people think it's super expensive but it's not" I expected that to be the end of the sentence regarding price. Glad he actually just came out and said it so now I can consider this in my project.
He priced it low so you become interested this is how business works ...and you proved it by your statement!
I bet it changed after this Ad
@@Eduardo_Espinoza
🇬🇧 does he collect all the shit and chemicals he's power washing off, or does it all go down a drain , into the river ?
@@englishbob5106 he said it's environmentally friendly, so I wouldn't bat an eye.
Interesting. This takes longer than I thought, but is way more affordable than I assumed.
Things generally do , tv gives a misconception of just how much time goes into restorations , I watch bad chad , he doesn't delete or edit anything , you literally see the car being built in real time 👍
That's a good thing. There are more than a few horror stories of guys dropping off their body and getting tin foil back. Incredibly acidic bath, or the temperature was significantly higher, or the operators were not checking progress like they should.
@@thestreets5206 overhaulin.
Yep done in a week.
Any and all of em.
Fools the average guy into thinking it'll be a couple months.
I've had stuff I've been wrenching on since 2019 and it's not even close to ready.
Of course I can only get like 2-5hrs a week in, and maybe 4hrs a night on weekends if too much life doesn't happen.
So around these parts ,it took all winter to remove and replace timing chains and reinstall the engine with new parts along the way on anything I touched.
this ain't overhaulin round here, and it's not even what I'd call a restoration.
@@ShainAndrews the bath is a TOOL. Like any thing else it's the operator. Not the tool.
This is where those DYNO blow up videos come from. Poor operators.
@@thestreets5206 Project Binky.
When you consider how thorough this method is, if you compare it to the costs of other methods the price is pretty good
also you need clothing and food prior and a garage to put the shell in
This was very educational. You make these cars look like new when you remove them from the chemical bath, even though they are just bare metal. And environmentally friendly chemicals? You’re looking at solutions that don’t harm the environment! That’s a double win!
That process is so satisfying to see especially the pressure washing part. Under $2500 is a great value too, I never though it would be that affordable. I’m not taking my car down that far but if I was, that is definitely the way to go.
5
For 2500 you can buy a decent car where I'm from.
Edit:for the amount and quality of work that's done I guess it's affordable
@@someone862 , for that amount, their service is definitely for vintage luxury cars for reselling.
@@someone862 For 2500, can't even buy a 1970s car over here. Or an old used trishaw/tuk tuk with a million+ kilometers. Maybe a used Indian motorcycle..
It's 2500 for the dip... but don't forget the cost of removing EVERYTHING..
Super honest, including the prices. When someone tells things like te price and Pros and Cons off the process, you can trust them
agreed.
Impressive business model. Simple, know what issues may arise, time frame and reasonable cost. Good work hope you guys thrive.
Like most folks I don't expect I'll ever have need to chemically dip a car body (though I did once have a bunch of doors from an old house restoration project dipped to remove multiple layers of paint) but regardless, this is a homespun, spoken-from-the-heart ad for your company. You come off as trustworthy, truthful, and most importantly, in earnest. Giving out the 'one price fits all' is very smart and will save you a lot of needless bargaining, and it makes you look more honest and up front. I hope your company gets loads of new business from this video / ad, cheers Terry.
Trevor, this has got to be one of the most concise, well written and well spoken company videos I have seen in quite a long while. I had about 6 or 7 seven questions lined up to ask you in the comments section, but you answered all of them in your video, so no need. I used to work on restoring older vehicles 30 years ago and really wished there was something like this back then. For those that don't know, manually stripping a car by sandblasting or media blasting can take a really long time and be quite cumbersome. Well done sir. Well done.
Not to mention, no dust!
Thank you I really appreciate that!
Informative, honest and cute! Trevor's got it goin' on 😜
@@rachelelrod7339 ☺️☺️☺️
Sandblasting or media blasting by a less experienced operator can also damage and distort the metal to the extent that it is way more difficult to work.
Speaking from experience.
quick video, straight to the point, no BS talk, and the price? ask anybody who has stripped down old paint before 🙂 CONGRATULATIONS!!! i am sure these three minutes fill up your bath until forever.....
I always love to watch cars get dipped. A new life! Thank you for this video. Haven’t seen a car dipped in years.
This is a great service. Getting ALL the rust off before repainting is imperative for keeping these classics around.
Hahaha I loved the little “Joker” action figure getting lowered into the chemical! Did anyone else catch that? At like 0:25?
It would have been more appropriate to see Two-Face (Harvey Dent) going into the acid bath
@@Indium111 no because joker was the one who fell into chemical container and became crazy
Shouldn't that be the Toxic Avenger, instead?
@@jeffbecker8716 I don’t know, I think it was referencing the 1989 Batman movie where Jack Nicholson falls into the big vat of acid and turns into the Joker. I grew up on that movie. 😂
Evidently, the theme of bad guys being affected by chemicals or acid accidents is a pretty common one.
Wow ! That’s pretty cool! I’ve heard of it but never seen how it’s done. Thanks for posting!
I worked part time for a company in NSW Australia in the 90's doing this. 100% the best way to remove everything off a car body. We had lots of customers bringing in their furniture for a full strip, lots of car parts and many other things.
Our chemicals weren't enviro friendly like they are now, but that's where we started. I could even feel the burn through the rubber gloves, but hey, most definitely the best way to do it.
How long did it take with the old way of doing things? Same as the new enviro friendly chemicals?
@@Knibbelkoning No where near it. I could have a body in and out in 2 days if it was really bad. If we just got single panels, we dipped for 2 hours and brushed off the paint into another vat, then dipped for another hour and they came out spotless. You can do all 4 doors and boot/bonnet in the one go.
Know anyone where in QLD/NSW that does it these days mate ?
Bro you okay?
This process is brilliant. As an added bit of interest it also shows how so called "new" cars come out of the factories having been damaged and repaired. Many years ago I had a friend and a cousin that worked at Fords in Dagenham and they both confirmed there was a body shop repairing brand new damaged cars before delivery.
Awesome Sir , so glad You included the cost and time line of this process
I didn't know this was a thing to have done. Impressive. It seems like it would be well worth the modest cost...depending upon the intended extent of the restoration.
Like the fact that you guys are up front about the price and process!!!!! You guys seem super legit!!! Great video!!!
Cool, relaxing video with plenty of detail of what you WANT! Great job and great results!
Such a cool process. Definitely the best choice, start from clean and ready.
I grew up in a shop called redi strip which was one if not the pioneer in these methods. They would never rope a car body to dip they used open cages to load cars into the tanks. They also had specific tanks for alloys or soft metals.
Good for THEM....?
Aren’t you special
Cool. Interesting to see how methods change over time
I’m sure I fry my eggs much different than you do mr cutlass, but their still delicious every morning and nothing bad has happened to me in 56 years of doing it that way
@@1982MCI they're
Wow. What an amazing process. Thanks for the education. Gives another avenue for restoration. Very reasonable price.
Wanted to do something like this with the 69 mustang Fastback my dad found in the late 90s. Went with a traditional hand done body job and it wasn’t cheap but from a logistical standpoint I scored. Almost all the final assembly will be done in the same one block auto/industrial area a couple miles up the road from where I’m at. Going in for the suspension next. Thanks for the in depth look into it.
Man I’d love to do this for my c10 cab, fenders and hood. Would be able to get it painted back to the factory color combo pretty easily
This is excellent. Definitely the way to go for a proper restoration.
My Dad used to refinish furniture and I remember him using paint stripper dip on certain furniture. There's no better way, in my opinion! Great video!
This video showed up randomly in my feed and was well worth clicking. Thank you.
Great great job. Thanks for the information ☺️
I love learning how things work. I didn't even know you could chem dip a car to strip and clean it like this, on this magnitude. I thought it had to be broken down to individual pieces or sections.
Thanks for sharing!
This might be the most satisfying cleaning video I have ever seen. We need more video of the process!
Very cool video! I agree that this is the best way to strip the car to bare metal, and it's not cost prohibitive. I'm glad someone developed this idea. Wish these guys all the best in business.
Was not expecting it to cost so cheap. Rarely do you see companies not take advantage of customers when it comes to restoring old cars. I'm sure your business will be booming after this and its well deserved.
I had a business just like this in the 70's in Maryland. I'd show pictures if I could post them on here. I use to charge about $400 to $500 per body and a little more for problem bodies. I'd charge around $35 for front fenders and a little less for the rear. The flanges in the bodies can be a problem so I'd tell my customers to flush them out with plenty of water then let the body sit in the sun. There is always going to be some seams that leak at first but flushing stops the problem. I did a lot of cars of all types and some antiques too. Never had one problem. The secret to a good job is the person who paints the finished, stripped parts. I always recommended a wipe down with...can't remember the brand name now... an acid etch then letting it dry then a primer. But to leave the part alone, including not touching the parts with bare hands - acids from the body will leave rust marks - until they are ready to be painted. Had many show winners including street rods and some very rare cars. The chemicals last a long time if properly used and no grease is allowed in the tanks. Wonderful business but a lot of hard sweaty work..as the paint stripped is in a heated tank of 110 to 130 degrees.
$500 dollars in the 70's would be equivilant to $3500 dollars today adjusted for inflation. Similar pricing
Sounds fantastic, Squeaky.
Such a cool process and a lot cheaper than i thought it would cost, all the best Cars Insider.
Wow!!!!!!! that is awesome, makes a restoration so much better since you don't have to worry about the metal rusting from the inside. Amazing!!!!
Wonderful service you have. In one segment you began talking about the nature of the environmentally friendly aspects of the process, then I heard no more information about it?
Where does all the slag/ or tailing material end up, is it treated or retested/retreated to be sure nothing is harming our future fellow man/families, or future water/air? Thanks kindly
Wow, surprised it stays in the stripping tank for so long! I assumed a hot paint stripper would literally take minutes. Thanks for posting this!
It's actually acid
@@thestreets5206 ok cool, makes you wonder how long they had to dip car racing shells in the 70's. It was common practice to reduce their weight by acid dipping.
@@thestreets5206 A company in the UK also does this but they pyrolyse the body first at 400 degC , seems to make it a lot quicker.
It takes so long because they are using "environmentally" friendly chemicals. Harsher chemicals, stronger phenol based types, can strip paint in hours. We use phenol type strippers to take paint off large aircraft in a matter of hours. Paint literally drips off the surface.
@@VaporheadATC Ok thanks. I used to get involved in aircraft refurb work, I vaguely recall on some, like the VC10, chemical paint removal was forbidden, old paint had to be sanded off!
Im always happy when they actually say the price up front. When doing any kind of project that goes this deep, a detailed budgeting plan is incredibly important, and it's impossible to budget when you have to get a consultation and then they say "well we can't give you a price estimate without seeing it". I understand it, but I also can't budget for it unless I at least have a ballpark. And if I can't budget for it, I'm not doing it.
Excellent! Love seeing these technologies at work
Wow, you guys do a great job. Well worth it! Do you ever get old pedal cars and things like that for stripping?
Used to do this with aircraft and aircraft parts at USAF depot maint process especially after NDI corrosion inspection where some aircraft never flew again and we had a great plating shop along with seed and beed blasting not one solution is good for all parts but in my opinion for vehicles this is the best as long as there is not to much rot
This was satisfying to watch! Thank you, good stuff!
That’s money well spent!! Thanks for giving out the ballpark figure for your work.
I swear - that Cyclone GT used to be mine. I sold one exactly like it about thirty years ago. Just a body and interior in red primer. Who knows?
This is so awesome and very helpful for car restoration. The process is very simple and environmentally friendly. This is also a great price. 👍🏽
I'm not really into cars. Have to say this is amazing to watch. Had no idea you could do this. It's very cool. Also not too expensive at all.
So satisfying to watch but too short of a clip! Must watch more! I really would like the video to keep going and see how great it looks during/after the cars get painted.
Very affordable and so thorough 👍👍
Did this 20 years ago for a 65 Mustang fastback. It was $2500 back then. It does work really good. Biggest issue was the chemical evap and leave a residue on the metal and inside the bottom of panels. Got to be sure to get it off or your paint will not stick. It is the best way to do it if you have the money and time to wait
They said in the video that they out a water based rust inhibitor on to prevent rust until you are ready to paint it. If you don't want that, I'm sure you can ask them not to put it on at the end.
I like to see old glories returning bright as new, well done!
I like it. There used to be a dude around where i live that had a bath for doors to remove all paint layers worked really well. I recently restored an aluminium boat and i used paint stripper and a pressure washer to get the old coats of paint off worked like a charm without hurting the metal.
Wow. That looks awesome. I'm glad the gave the price too. I bet they get a lot more business now because of it. I hate that, having to call for an inquiry bullshit.
Wow that's a really good price! 2500 is WAAAYYYYY lower then i expected.
Kudos for addressing the money since that's quite vital and nobody usually does!!!
Clicked on it because it was short and I don’t have the greatest attention span then literally moments in and I’m wishing it was a longer video, super interesting to watch and to hear the process, and saying the price was a genius move, good luck to your business
Great video, but I'm wondering how you get paint back into the areas you can't reach with a spray gun? At the factory, they dip the body and that keeps the whole car from corroding away, even the areas you can't see.
When someone restores a car, starting with just a body, like the ones in the video, how on earth are they supposed to find every single little screw, clip, trim piece, and so on?!?! Now that's some dedication!!
As for this dip process, I love the idea of knowing FOR SURE there is no sneaky hidden rust anywhere that will destroy your investment and hard work from the inside out. Cool idea!! 😎😎😎
Media Blast has always been the best way to strip a car it doesn't warp or deteriorate the metal every car I've ever done in the last 30 years have turned out very well
You document the disassembly process. Notes, pictures, video, bags and boxes to label parts. It's time consuming, but it's more time consuming to figure it out later from memory.
And depending on make, model and year, you can always get reproductions. Some cars, say like a 69' Mustang or Camaro, you can practically build a new one from scratch. Even an old school VW Beetle.
Hell even old Model A or T Fords, you can find a lot of parts, because they made so many of them, and they were made to last and were fairly simple to maintain. There are still quite a few second hand parts out there for them.
The aftermarket scene out there is amazing these days.
The people who own these car bodies have every single part already sitting in there garage. They removed them from the very same car in preparation for this process.
A whole lot of time and a photographic memory definitely helps! Or at least the skill and knowledge to know what’s vital to being replaced
Used to get our friends at the Radiator Shop to Dip our Bicycle Frames when they closed for the weekend! We built Bicycles as a sideline because even in the Desert the Winters can be tight plus I enjoyed the time with my Dad and having my own Herd of Bicycles! It worked, just a big of Sanding to finish it out! Wasn’t the same as this but came to mind!
So satisfying to watch! Great video!
In Engl;and they do it differently ,the cook the car body in an oven which works the same way but keeps greta off their backs.
Any idea how hot, and for how long? That still does not sort the rust issue though.
Acid Dipping works perfectly on single panels, but it will leave rust between "tight seems", so still not a 100% rust free car shell, to achieve that you need to disassemble every panel, (as on my channels restoration), and individually acid dip every new replacement panel first, it is time consuming and costly but worth it for a pristine car shell build, that is 100% rust free, I know a friend that had that issue on his car shell, when he removed old rotted chassis rails from the floor pans there was rust along the entire seams, and in air pocket spots, found a day after a £3,000 Acid Dip,(done in the UK) , "NOT" by the company in this video, just to be clear, I love the process as I did it all myself, to ensure quality was perfect on every panel, it works so well, on big panels like the roof , I used sand blasting and hand sanding, and acid wash to get back to bright clean steel, I can recommend Acid Dipping, it works great!, and is less messy than other options, but tight seams are the thing to note it can not remove rust from. and that rust can cause issue in time.
Then do you try to primer and paint all of those hard to reach places and places that aren't seen that are covered by different things like carpet, door panels and headliner or do you coat those places with something different?
@@bodeine454 you can use a combination of primer and cavity grease
@@husk1c I've never heard of cavity grease, I'll have to research it, thank you 👍
@@bodeine454 Thanks for your question, My car had serious rust issues all over it, 99% of people would of scrapped it, so it meant a full rebuild was needed, the route I chose was to individually Acid Dip every panel, original ones taken off the car that were reusable and New Old Stock, every panel was then rinsed in a tank of boiling hot water, that heats up each panel and hot water evaporates faster than cold, hot air was used to dry each panel, once I was happy it was rust free, clean steel, 2 etch primer coats were applied on all surfaces so for the "A" posts for example inside the box section multi coats of Etch, Zinc, Red Oxide, Graphene,, a shrink & crack proof waterproof flexible coating,Grey Primer, 6 x Body Colour and Lacquer coats were applied, allowing 24 hours between each to fully cure and baked on, a total of 32 layers, went into the inside of every panel that was going to be enclosed the edges of panels that were going to be spot welded together were both coated in the best quality weld through Zinc Primer, so as the welds are done it melts and runs around each spot fully coating up to it, with the addition of Professional Motor industry body panel construction bonding sealant between spot welds to ensure the seams were water tight, and no condensation can form in the seams, and once the car was completed and body shop top coats sprayed, a further cavity wax injection process on top, a crazy amount of work, cost, and time, but the end result is the best protected anti rust treatment inside the shell, probably of any car ever built, My channel shows the car before the work it was extremely bad, and some of the anti rust treatment stages, and full reconstruction to a as brand new shell.but better protected than Ford or any other manufacture has ever done. I hope you found that process informative, a lot to read but a lot to explain, lol. .
@@husk1c I have and a lot more besides, the one problem in only trusting to a primer coat (not all types are waterproof, and a tiny scratch will cause rust.), & if the scratch is missed by the cavity wax injection (which is a great product),you have problems, as you can not see in to hidden box sections, many have reinforcing plates, and if you miss covering the tiniest of spots,around them, or any where when applied, rust will start and corrode metal and creep under the wax, grease, oil, underseal and rubberized coating. Condensation rots cars from the inside out, so 100% clean steel, fully sealed is the only way to ensure it will not start.somewhere, My car was undersealed and cavity wax injected, parked up for 12 years unused in the open exposed to damp, wet, mist, cold, ice, & snow, but the rust started in missed areas inside the box sections, and porous painted ones, and ate big holes throughout the car.
What a very thorough and unique and great process.
I don't know why but I could binge watch acid dipping for days. LOL I love watching that.
What about airbubbles trapping inside the car preventing from reaction?
Used this process many years ago when restoring a 1957 Chev. Seattle area. Shortly after the business was shutdown by the eco Nazis common to this area. No one else stepped in to replace them. It was an amazing process, well worth the price and peace of mind know that ALL the rust was gone.
LOL. You probably want a chrome shop in the back yard too... well as long as it isn't your back yard. They closed shop because they chose to not deal with the hazardous materials side of things. The entire industry must continue to evolve. Maybe back off the theatrics while you are at it. Not everything is Nazi...
@@ShainAndrews OK Communist.
@@seeburg10 You don't even know what communism is. You just hear your dictator say it... then you all chant it in your echo chamber.
4q
@@seeburg10 hope you enjoy chemicals leeching into your water supply.
I'm very surprised at how inexpensive that is! Such a time saver, and so worth it!
This process is so satisfying to watch.
My boss did this to his Porsche race car and it was awesome took off even the undercoating and seam sealer as well. Dropped a lot of weight as well.
Race teams have been known to do this. Let them soak, get all the metal down as thin as possible. Cheeky bastards! LOL.
@@ShainAndrews won't the rigidity be fucked though ?
@@orlmont Most were body on frame, so no. And they would push the roll cage rules to adjust how the chassis behaved. Hard core racers are like that one kid in school that knew the rules very well but had the insight to interpret them instead of accept what the intent of them are.
This is how any serious,professional restoration should start with
So satisfying to watch!
I really appreciate it when companies give ballpark prices about their services so the possible new customer is not totally in the dark
I have used this process many time with great results. The body or parts should be E Coated before bodywork and paint to protect the parts from internal rusting. I have everything ECoated.
No need really as this process phosphate coats the steel preventing further rusting. Once acid dipped they can sit outside for ages without rusting.
@@matthewq4b
I must disagree, the coating left from the stripping process is not conducive for paint adhesion, even the ECoat must be scuffed before epoxy primer is applied. This is still my preferred method of removing paint, rust, old body filler, etc.
@@theschmitthaus6208 Who said anything about paint adhesion or where was that discussed ? Comprehension issues apparently. And to E coat properly requires submersion. Once acid dipped there is no need for submersion E coating as the metal is phosphated and will not corrode till that is consumed and that will take many many years in body voids...
@@matthewq4b This has been what I've been trying to get information on. Voids that are now just "inhibited" with no primer or E coat - how long does that actually last? Especially in a humid environment? Little water in there from rain? I see you are saying that it is fine but do you have any actual data on it?
@@doingcarthings How long a phosphate coating will last will vary from dip to dip and from vehicle to vehicle.
Typically void rust protection will last from 3-40 years depending on the environment the low end will be in the rust belt with winter driving. The high end will be a vehicle that never sees rain, wet or winter temps.
Proper e-coating requires a phosphoric acid bath beforehand (same as a rust stripper bath) that deposits a phosphate coating prior to an E coating bath.
The Alternative is to rust inhibit (oil or wax) phosphate coated voids this will last as long and potentially even longer than the E coating
I have to say, if I could do it again I would do this. I mechanically stripped my car by hand and it took forever, made a mess, and didn’t remove all the paint and seam sealer.
I'm in same boat, but I'm inspecting all the seams on my car, any that show the slightest sign of rust get cut out redone with special primer and special glue instead of bare metal spot-welding like they used to on this car. It's a really lengthy process, but when it's done it'll be done properly and completely. Then I can do an engine swap and put some power down (I refuse to put power on a rusty car) and my car is already far from original, and not rare, so keeping it as original as I can won't be smth I want or need to do. It's a Triumph TR7.
These guys are doing gods work. If ever a company should exist it's this one.
Time lapse videos of cars going through this from start to finish would be satisfying to watch.
Good video, thanks
The concern I see is the chemicals being trapped within any boxed structure or anywhere the pressure washer couldn't reach (even if rotated upside down)?
A long time ago, my friends and I used paint striper on a car while in a self serve car wash, leaving a rectangle of debris on the floor (we were kids).
The netralizer rinse and passivation dip will enter every space as well, so no trapped chemicals.
You should offer some sort of undercoating to prevent rust as well. I've read one of the coolest things about Honda vehicles is that they are fully zinc plated before the primer is put on, and they started doing that in the '80s just to make them resistant to road salt in the United States. It would be a great add-on to body stripping if you were able to offer something similar to that as an extra thing people could do while restoring a car.
@Nedd Flanders water-based rust inhibitor is not going to reduce rust anymore than actual paint. If you would read my comment, you'll notice I referred to actual electroplating before primer is applied. Honda has been doing this since the '80s and it works really well.
The company in my area called Redi Strip can phosphate the body after dipping.
@@donziperk I don't know about that process. What is it?
@@AlexandarHullRichter We had this done on a few cars 20+ ago. Acid dip, wash, come back for all metal repairs, acid dip again, wash then dip in a phosphate solution, then paint prep and paint.
@@donziperk what is the phosphate solution? Does it protect better than primer emersion like electroplating does?
Great value an pleasing to watch nice work 👍🏼
This is so awesome. I have an old Merc B that I love. Looking to restore her before too long.
Recently my father gave me an old CB radio he had in the attic. Still worked perfectly but was way rusted on the outside. Essentially I dissassembled it and put the rusted parts in a bucket filled with vinegar and WD40 for about a week. It easily removed the rust it had plus the paint simply by shaking it and the metal never looked so shiny - almost felt bad by painting it again.
Vinager corrodes soft metals as well like aluminum.
@Zac's DIY Guns And WD40 is an oily substance (Water Displacement) that won't mix with vinegar.
@@baladar1353 Used it precisely to avoid future rust.
Love the part where you say these chemicals are envioromentally friendly.
Jokes aside, it's crazy to see these cars go 60 years back.
I wonder how environmentally friendly the paint they take off is once it is suspended in the chemicals..
That’s pretty badass. Thank you
Nice work! Good luck, guys!
This was extremely interesting….and seemingly reasonably priced! I can’t help but wonder…..during the process, if ever when lifting a particularly badly-rusted body from the bath, there was so much rust, the body ‘broke’? And how often is the “bath water” changed - as in, how many processes before new chemical bath is refilled? And I can’t help but wonder…..what about the resulting sludge? Has to be one helluva expensive ‘hazmat’ bill to dispose of it. Still…..I found this fascinating, as I’m considering having my original-owner 1997 Jeep TJ professionally restored. Thank you, again, for advertising the cost, and again, it seems reasonably priced and thorough!
I wouldn't be surprised if they rejected cars that rusty.
I'm going to take a stab and think they only change the chemistry a couple times a year. If they have filtration and replenishment systems, they should only need to drain the tank when it's time to service the pumps.
I've never restored a car, but I would think that most guys who do tend to pick bodies that are in decent shape to begin with for restoration. If it is so rusty that it is in danger of falling apart, hardly anyone is gonna take the time.
It kind of looks like most of the rust stays intact until its hit with the pressure washer so most of the mass should be coming off outside the tank. It also looks like the paint and rust are just washed down the drain so no hazmat bills there.
Rust has no strength whatsoever, that's why we want to cut out rusty metal and replace it with fresh steel. When a car body has become so rusted that it's in danger of braking apart, you weld a temporary steel frame to hold it together while you repair it. In the video a red MGA convertible has this bracing done to it.
A car that rusty probably would't be worth chemical dipping in the first place.
I've read that some of the chemicals may get "trapped" within the small seams of a body. Then, later on, they can leach out and damage a paint job. Is there a way to protect against that if true? Perhaps having the car heated in a high temp oven after?
@@Rio_Seco
That all depends on the chemical being used.
!!! FEAR FEAR FEAR !!!
@@danielwarpaint1963 Just a little common sense. Doesn't seem you've got much of that, Daniel. At 2:37 he literally goes into that topic, maybe that will help you learn a bit!
That’s what the phosphate conversion coating takes care of , which is the last step , then prebrush phosphate primer into the pinch-welds (wipe off the excess) before you spray
@@jamie6387 that was uncalled for
Satisfying to watch, amazing!
absolutely incredible!
I love this!!!!
How many cars will be dipped before the chemical bath is drained and refilled?
After your treatment a hot-dip galvanization would make a lot of sense. This way you would protect the bare steel immediately for a very long time.
Why coat the bare metal with zinc? It is thin metal and hot dipping is extremely hot, certainly not good for an already fragile body. Besides that welding patch plates would be dangerous since zinc is poisonous. He already mentioned they chemically protect the finished product.
Only problem is hot galv dipping can very easily warm a car chassis/body.
Nearly 100% of the metal I weld at work is zinc coated it's a little concerning but I'm not dead yet.
Unbelievably satisfying
This is truly a good professional presentation sir,
All that was said in this is true. However unless the process has changed in the last few years, the biggest issue is the tendency for the solutions that the car was dipped in to leach out from welded seams onto the new paint. This is the primary reason why most restorers don't use this method.
Not necessarily true .
By the time you get it back and start sanding it for epoxy primer and letting it sit a week to fully cure and then start doing your body work the chemicals will dry out I done a few cars that were done this way and it's a lot nicer than sanding everything out and sandblasting warps the metal I seen a few cars blasted and it does more damage than good and sometimes your there trying to get the sand out of one door for a day..
I grew up at redi strip which made the technique. Most franchises either changed name or closed doors but you are correct but despite the leaching we did a bunch of cars being back logged for over a year at some points.
He said his chemicals were environmentally friendly. That was a heap of bullshit.
Perhaps they bake the cars in a car oven to expedite the drying out process?
@@Dixler683 LMAO I'm a "lefty" and understand the safety of this process. I also understand "your" party ran a lousy candidate and now you're butthurt. Get over it. fascist bootlicker.
A friend of mine in MI had his '55 Chevy sedan dipped and it looked great... BUT a few years later on originally excellent sheet metal, like truck and door pinches, it started to bubble up. It was believed to be from some minor amount of the original dip acid that got caught in the pinch areas that started the rust again a few years later. What guaranty do you give that "some" of the stripper acid won't be caught in the pinches of your process? I know that was 25 years ago and times have changed, but is your process that much better? Thanks!
Even if they get ever drop of it out unless you dip the car in paint you're gonna be left with bare metal in that pinch weld which will eventually begin to rust, that's a down side of this process.
The process involves dipping it in a acid neutralizer after the acid. That would stop it rusting. I'm sure probably 25 years ago it was acid then a wash with water then paint. This is a far more advanced process
@@brandonlink6568 True, but that's also a flaw with the factory vehicle itself too.
What warranty you expect from 2500 buck job there is a risk for sure.
Thanks for the negative info.
Now i am aware of it.
Wow great and worth the money. Labor would eat your launch let lone the completeness of this process. Thanks for the video
You explained everything very well. Thank you.
Random, but was anyone else reminded of the "dip" from Who framed Rodger Rabbit?
Based on this video, this is a VERY cost effective method.
What about inside the cross members where its really important to get rid of the rust and where the pressure washers can't reach?
The remaining acid makes it rot from the inside out. Several people I spoke to who've had their shells dipped, had issues with this. I will not have my shell dipped for this reason.
@@Zgurkogel yepp, getting rid of the remaining acid from the cross members is what I meant....
@@Zgurkogel Would need more information from those "people" - all of these processes are different, and I could see it being a problem with some of the ones I've seen that do a spray on acid neutralizer as opposed to dipping in the neutralizer as shown in this video. I'm not saying the issue is avoided but fully submerging should technically get the neutralizing bath into the same areas as the original acid bath.
Don't worry about it acid dipping is junk seriously weakens the metal and compromises the whole chassis
@@doingcarthings this was done to a mate's car by a UK based company. They claim to neutralise the acid by fully submerging shells. Only 2 years later the shell started bubbling around the spot welds in various places.
1:27 - Whoooah, How satisfying . . . . . Well done guys !
Great video and concise, I do think for the price it’s totally worth it for peace of mind that all the rust is gone and you can restore properly