I Wrecked my Diesel Heater DONT DO THIS Chinese Kerosene Oil Life Waste error code e-3 e-6 van
Vložit
- čas přidán 4. 03. 2023
- I Wrecked my diesel heater accidently , error code 3 e-3 e-6 . but fixed it cheaply and easily. the error code bought up glow plug, but it was actually the mother board.
Sorry, sound in some parts are a little quiet.
PUMPING HOT AIR INTO MY HOME
I bought one of these for my garage, and then thought....... I could heat my home with this! So that's exactly what i did! It is working great pumping hot air into my home. It is keeping us nice and warm and super economical.
I have a carbon monoxide detector just in case, but you don't get any fumes indoors at all
.
I hope this may help you in some way. Even if it just makes an idea pop up in your head, of how you can heat your home in cheaper way.
Thanks for looking at my videos cheers Andy..... If you can be anything, be Kind.....
Paid Links:
Power Switcher Module: amzn.to/48sEbAb
Heaters: amzn.to/3HDNXDO
12v power supply: amzn.to/40iHO8J
Long flexy exhaust pipe: amzn.to/48XI4NY
New control panel: amzn.to/49gvOrC
Mother Board: amzn.to/49f6emD
Ducting: amzn.to/3CF7l0W
Diesel Heater ultra quiet fuel pump: amzn.to/42nOsLC
Diesel Heater Parts: amzn.to/3SGTP5H
Diesel Heater Extension Cable Wiring: amzn.to/49gb9DT
Battery Trickle Charger: amzn.to/3UllSsA
12v power supply car socket style: amzn.to/3OMvo4v
link to heater U.S. : s.vevor.com/bfP62S
Kerosene Supplier: www.gbfuel.co.uk
U.S.A. Links:
Heaters: amzn.to/48SYbwc
Power Switcher Module: amzn.to/48RBJUf
12v power supply: amzn.to/47XpuE0
Long flexy exhaust pipe: amzn.to/3SDGoTP
New control panel: amzn.to/48VVcD3
Mother Board: amzn.to/3SEXxfY
Ducting and joints : amzn.to/3UlMZn6
Diesel Heater ultra quiet fuel pump: amzn.to/4bjYYHZ
Diesel Heater Parts: amzn.to/48LFBG9
Diesel Heater Extension Cable Wiring: amzn.to/3u5LP4J
Battery Trickle Charger: amzn.to/3OknUoL
12v power supply car socket style: amzn.to/3vZdMf5
As an Amazon Associate, I may earn from qualifying purchases
Channel Support:
With the current cost of living crisis we all know how important is is to save money where we can.
My mission is share my knowledge to help and support you to make some real cost saves if possible.
www.buymeacoffee.com/andyfire...
Good vid, nice to see the insides and how easy it is to do basic changes on it.
Glad you liked it!
You may find your fancy battery charger is to blame. Some of these 'reconditioning' chargers incorporate a series of voltage spikes, in order to break up potential sulphation, (which causes degradation of performance) Those 'spikes' will cause problems with the control electronics of the heater, that likes a reasonably smooth supply. My advice is not to use the fancy job when the battery is connected to the heater. All part of the learning experience!
i can see what you mean.
thanks mate
For the same reasons you mentioned they can also kill engine ECUs on cars if the battery is charged still connected. I've not heard of it happening but if used on campers and caravans that has super etc then possible could damage the solar charge system
@@lezbriddon hello my friend
yes , true.
i am going to do a short vid on it. to also bring this to peoples attention.
thanks a lot andy
I don't think so, unless the electrojics is not built according to automotive standards. The thing is, auto electronic is supposed to withstand voltages far beyond 30V (yes, I'm talking about "12V" system; 40V present for a second is a minimum requirement for any electronic component from practically all car makers). It may refuse to work when such voltage is present, but it is supposed to work after it went to normal, aka into the 8..18V range.
I doubt any charger would go that high even with things like the "desulfation pulses".
To me it more look like the electronic in the heater is not properly protected for undervoltage, leading to insufficient gate drive for the mosfet switches (either for the glowplug, or even the fan motor) and this then got fried because it had too high on resistance for the current.
The unit may be checking the voltage before turning on the glow plug, but once the glow plug is on, it does not check the voltage anymore. So once the wiring had higher resistance, it results into the gate underdrive problem.
These diesel heaters are tolerant up to 38 volts so highly unlikely.
Just goes to prove that nothing needs to be complicated.
Symplicity at its best
🇬🇧👍😎👍🇬🇧
I love that fact that you can buy replacement parts and fix it yourself. Well done mate and made in China 😅
great thanks andy
3rd video I have watched, cool. Thanks, enjoy yourself.
Thanks for watching! cheers andy
İ do like your videos, i always remember this. Only the person who doesn't make mistakes, who doesn't do any work. There you go , you are sharing your success and mistakes with us and this makes you very special nice person. Thank you for lovely video.
Thank you very much!
cheers andy xxxxxx
Literally today I took mine apart because its running well but always had a slight smell of diesel in the hot air coming out and it turned out that the glow plug wasn't tight I took the fan off the front very easy to do
thanks...i found this useful...i need to change a control board...now i know its easy.
really easy, they are not all the same and not all interchangeable.
so make sure it is the same visually .cheers andy
@@andyfireblade thanks Andy, i ordered a control panel....hope it works, it was cheap enough to give it a try.
Very helpful. thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
When i installed mine on my 5th wheel trailer, I ditched the small wires that mine came with and used 10 gage wire. May sound redicoulous, but, so good so far. Also used an in line fuse when hooking it to 12 volt power off the battery bank.
Hay man great information, just bought a similar heater. Now if it fails i know how to service the unit. Cheers 🍻
thanks , they are quiet simple to work on, there is only a few things to go wrong.
cheers andy
It's nice they make all the replacement parts for these heaters. There's nothing you can't fix on them. Just don't shut them down by cutting the power or you will burn up the mother board in no time.
true fact,
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Easiest way to test a glow plug is to test it's resistance, in situ. Mine was around 800 ohms, so definitely shot at. You can then cut the wires and a long socket will remove it easily.
👍👍👍.Thank you
You are so welcome!
It will be working now
I will put money on it being the wire gauge, especially on start-up, as they suck a lot of power when they fire up...Error code 3 is low power feed (I think). Fully charge the battery, and keep the charger connected. Best wishes. Tony
I would agree 100% in keeping your battery fully charged up
I would always use 13amp mains flex, cheap enough. Use off old appliance.
yes, when i thow away a broken appliance, i always cut off the tail and keep it . cheers andy
Thin wire causes voltage drop, so the current increases and some component fries
You disconnected it so upon reconnection it asked what the supply voltage is. If you started it whilst displaying 7v it was expecting a 7v supply but it was used with 12v and didn't like it.
If you disconnect it again then press the up arrow till it displays 12v and press okay.
The glow plugs are not expensive and can be changed but I don't think the 2 things are related.
And thank you for the vids you have uploaded including this one.
thanks for the comments, and thanks for looking
cheers andy
Thinking about putting one of those under my camper, because it's so loud.
Yes, the wires must be capabe of taking 20 Amps at least. thin wires will melt and put into danger the heater if it is already running
Could have used a square 9 volt battery to test the glow plug
At 16:07 just before you put the lid back on. The green plug for the glowplug did not look like it was fully seated. If this is not fully seated you may end up with gases getting into the hot air stream around the unit and consequently possible raised co levels coming out with the hot air.
thx i will check it out
@@andyfireblade we got 33 parts per million carbon monoxide in our living space all from the glow plug seal, I used screwfix No Nonsense fire retardent silicone to seal the seal as ot was mishaped by the heat, it will make a rubbery smell as it cures when the heater is running but not for long.
I was gonna say the same thing.
It's the motherboard If you go to the motherboard, you will see a bit on the soldier in burnt out resolute again and it could be fine
yes, your right
The glow plug draws high amps on startup until the heater reaches full operating temperature. Thin or long wires can create voltage drop so the system wont start. Unburned fuel also causes buildup on the atomising screen unless max temp is regularly achieved.
Try thicker / shorter wire and make sure a good 13 volts is seen at the glowplug connection.
Otherwise it will be reliable as can be. Few parts !
thanks for watching the vids, cheers andy
Shame you didn't pop the plastic cover off the board and give us a shot of the pcb. Would have loved to have seen which component fried itself, a mosfet/voltage reg etc as components are so cheap these days... Still, thanks for the video.
thanks for your comment, i was going to do a vid of replacing it, but i couldnt get the right one, i dont know that much about mosfets.
i still need to replace it in that heater, i will look into it.
cheers andy
You need a good battery and at least a 10amp battery charger , leave the charger on while running they use a lot of amps on startup and shut down.good luck.
The atomising screen is still inside the port (underneath the glowplug) ... thats what gets the fuel vaporised and exposed to the burn process .
I would splice a fuse in the red wire if you are going to run your heater off a 12v battery
Error 3 is a dead battery ,not enough to pull 9 or 10 amps at start up.... ..Always fuse the hot wire near the battery as there totally unprotected..I'd say your battery has failed especially seeing how it was charging so fast..
The voltage is the supply voltage. It may not be battery voltage if the wires from battery to heater are rubbish. Even the terminal connections could be giving trouble.
Three months? Still in warranty?
At 37 seconds into your vid I could see those wires for the battery seemed far to thin for the initial glow plug pre warm up of 9 amp or so tsk tsk
cheers andy
P 11 is the voltage of the battery or power supply the heater is connected too, if the battery is dropping to 11v straight of the charger its shot ( for this application anyway). I think you'll find the heater isn't starting because the voltage is dropping to low on start up to get enough heat in the plug.
thanks andy
Second winter im heating my livingroom with one of these burning a mix of diesel and half a liter to a liter old gasoline burns like a mofo :) Cheaper heating you wont find if you ask me verry happy with it .
thats great to hear, brilliant cheers andy
Many times if you change the Motherboard you have to make sure that the Display/Controller is Compatible with that Motherboard !
yes, it has to be the right one. or it wont work
HI Andy, may I suggest a video you might consider making. Diesel heater high altitude settings experiment. I run mine on that setting and I think I'm saving on my fuel consumption.
Great suggestion!
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
I'd run a soldering iron over the connections for the wire that got hot and melted the plastic. Might just be a dry joint.
thanks andy
good vid, but please , please put a filter on,
Could be that the wire caused a volt drop which caused the glow plug's switching mosfet(semiconductor switch) to not switch fully on and be half on half off(linear mode/high resistance mode) causing the mosfet to heat up and burn
thanks for your comment
cheers andy
That was also my thought. Would like to see what is under the plastics at that side of the PCB. It may be even reparable
Check the solder joints on the board where it got warm...
ok, thanks
I have the same problem my board is fried mosfet and resistance blown up on the board error 03 and i have changed the glow plug so it was the same problem as yours!
i am still trying to get a board for one of my heater, and i just cant get it.
i have tried others but they are not compatible.
thanks , and thanks for looking
did your see my other heater videos
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
let me know what you think
cheers andy
Maybe you could openup the black box and show a close-up, so we can see what component went bad. And maybe know why it went bad. Surely some suggesting comments will show up.
thanks for your comment
i will do that regards andy
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
keep the battery at full charge, with a trickle charger floating it.
As soon as you showed the wire , instantly I thought way too thin. You would want 17 amp 12v wire minimum - if the wire is traveling a distance use 30amp wire. I used 30amp wire with a 15smp inline fuse as from my battery too the heater in my van was around 6 meters. Maybe the voltage was low because the gauge could not carry the appropriate voltage for the glow plug and start phase?
you are exactly right!...
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
HEY ANDY, I enjoyed the video.
You said you would give a link to the black and yellow charger, the one with the countdown timer, can you give us a link to it please, ta.
amzn.to/4ayPnwA
cheers andy xxxx
My cheap chinese charger wrecked a brand new battery, I've bought a new battery and a new charger with a trickle charge facility ,all working great now. I am heating 3 bedroom house on just this heater ,on road diesel its costing about £20 per week.
Thanks for sharing, thats what i want to hear.
cheers andy
same here only its a two bedroom house we are saving £40 a week on not using the boiler for heating.
Hi Andy my heater has grey smoke at startup for about 40 seconds then it clears up....ive only run it about 4 times for either half an hour or a full hour. any ideas what it could be. im using regular deisel that i use in my SUV
yes, that's pretty normal. from exhaust, i assume. you should be ok
cheers andy
I took my glowplugs out of the van to test and I put live and neutral to the first one and it exploded. Also the breaker for my wall sockets tripped.
did you use 240v?
you should use 12v if your van is 12v
it will glow orange before you can count to 5
@@andyfireblade great vid showing how to test the plugs and get to them I was just taking the Mick over you saying live and neutral from the battery!
@@lezbriddon phew, i was worried about you. hahahhaahahaha cheers andy
By the looks of it the mosfit died, that too is a easy fix on the board
They won't run under 11v glo plug not getting hot enough!... below 12v they play up! a fully charged battery normally around 13.4v...
BTW it IS a combustion chamber !
I would surmise the control board issue was caused by a dead short, as opposed to the smaller gauge wiring.
Did you not think about cleaning the glowplug mesh while you had it out
i tried to pull it out, but it wasent coming easily. so left well alone.
not looking for trouble. maybe next time. ahahhaahha
cheers andy
thats prob repairable prob a mossfett gone easy job if you can read the number on the part i do repair on pcb you should tearit down see if you can do it :)
According to my fault chart, E03 is a motor fault or short circuit.
from what i have heard, they can throw a few different codes up. and some times different.
cheers andy
TAKE IT APART THE BOARD should be a chip inside swop it out the old board either a BJT MOSSFET etc look for the code on the chip there about £3
WIRE WAS WAY TO THIN they get hot and courses heat creep to the board. The board can be repaired worthy to note i would exstend the wires on the board and place it on the back plate just under the ticking time bomb pump lol so it keeps cool without inspecting the board im gessing the glow plug is controlled by a mossfet in turn will need some sort of cooling heat sink etc
love the videos might i add a solar panel say 150w charge controller and battery lol save on energy for a little fun..
keep at it,,, might i ad thinking on what nlo114 said he has a good point voltage spikes from that switch mode power supply would add to your problem but with high resistance in your wires Voltage drop you seen a 7 8 9v would apear on startup would send the chip to short adding a 2200uf cap 25v electrolytic from battery to your heater would provent the spikes
sorry about spelling lol
hi jamie, thanks for the great advice
really appreciate it.
i will do this
have a great day! cheers andy
Good deal cheap fix these heaters are great arent they ? do you run diesel or kerosene in her ?
yes they are great,
i use kerosene.
thanks for looking in
kind regards andy
@@andyfireblade have a great day Andy
You're going to need to buy another motherboard. You sizled it with that battery charger that battery charger is too powerful
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
You never put the rubber bung back properly on the glow plug. That seals the chamber.
thankyou andy
I find it very strange that they would put this motherboard so close to the heating out take blower. I would maybe put a cut piece of high heat Silicone that they use for wood burning stoves pipes.
thats true, there are plenty of other places to put it.
please take a look at my other heater vids and let me knot what you think?
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
@@andyfirebladeI have watched quite a few of your videos this is why I purchased one of these diesel heaters should be here within the week.
@@stopit4uca great, thanks for watching. good luck with it, message me anytime
cheers andy
i wonder why the fuse did not blow out first
hmmm, yeah, i didnt think of that
cheers andy
how old is the battery? When your battery is under a load, being discharged, it hasn't got the capacity, amperage, to power the glow plug. Voltage is only part of the story
it was pretty new. but yeah , if you put your hand on the wires on startup , they get warm and then cool off when the glow plug is done.
cheers andy
its says on mine to use min 2.5mm copper
cool , the new ones come with the wire. please see my vid that i just uploaded, cheers andy xx
mine dose that, the voltage, I know the batt is 13v, but heater says 12v,
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Because as the voltage travels through wire you get a voltage drop. To compensate or reduce voltage loss use thicker gauge wire. My heater is 6 meters from my battery - but I get no voltage drop as I've used two runs of 17amp (34amp) wire. Upgrade the wire, less stress on the wire if you use a higher gauge. On start up the pull is high on a diesel heater. Just be sure to use the appropriate inline fuse. Usually 15amp. Also as a battery is put under 'load' the voltage will naturally read lower - this is not necessarily reflective of the battery state or charge. 'But' the voltage during operation should read the same or very similar at the battery and heater unit. If not - it's either Voltage drop due to wire gauge or inaccurate voltage meter on heater.
La liaste parda
yes.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
hi there ive not watched all the video yet, but i think your GlowPlug has failed.. E-3 i think is glowplug failure
i have a melt on the mother board and i cant see to get the right one. i have tried others , but they are not compatible with this heater.
i think i will change the board and the controller?
cheers andy
The clue is in the name " Diesel" Heater. 🤔
hahahaha cheers andy
Showing us the glowplug heating up so brightly might turn out to be a design flaw. If any way possible (hacking) the cable with a resistor to lower the current and reduce the glow to suffiecient levels to operate normally might be the key to overal less powerconsumption at startup. Did anyone ever question the whole diesel heater design in spec detail. I mean, basically these should be capable of running without electric power.
good idea, thanks for your comment
cheers andy
Power is required for the fuel pump and the fan.
It's always the same people messing around with things you don't really understand just a starters the cable you trying to extend what's it rated at 1 amp and then you using a cheap Chinese charger I see things like this all the time people messing around with things I don't know nothing about just a guessing game and I never learn until it cost for money
yes, learning the hard way is a lesson that you dont forget, especially when it cost you money.
cheers andy
You were lucky. All boards will not work with all controllers. Clearly the motherboard was going out - likely nothing to do with you - it was just pulling the voltage, at the heater, down because the motherboard was leaking to earth.
Has it been turned off without a cool down cycle? That will screw up the ecu by overheating components. May not fail immediately but just ‘injures’ it.
thanks for the comments. love to learn from you guys.
cheers andy
Lithium Iron Phosphate battery.