Applying Waterslide Decals Made Easy
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- čas přidán 25. 07. 2024
- Applying waterslide decals to your scale models is actually very easy! This video shows the tools, the preparation, and demonstrates how to do it. I then follow up with somethings of what to do after applying the decals.
0:00 Start
1:00 The tools I use
3:03 Surface preparation
5:56 Using decal solutions
9:27 A close look at a decal sheet
11:38 Actually putting a decal on a model
15:17 After placing your decal on...
16:01 Dealing with silvering
18:21 Applying decals over a curved surface
19:45 Dealing with wrinkled decals
21:01 Clear coating over decals
23:27 Wrapping up
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Hey, you are really helping me! More questions coming your way!!
Thank you so much! I am so very grateful for your kind generosity! And it's always very encouraging to know the work I do is helping modelers. Thanks for watching and commenting - happy day to you friend!
@@JonBius You bet! A couple of questions. 1. How do I deal with the tiny (and I mean tiny) decals. Like the ones that say "step" or "Gun"? My fingers are way too big to slide them off without losing them in the process. Suggestions? 2. I have some larger decals peeling up a the edges. Used Micro Sol to remedy but still not laying down while following the contour of the tail rudder. Note: I cut the decal after it was in place and completely dried. I wonder if Walthers Solvaset would have worked better. Suggestions? I really appreciate your help here. (BTW: this is for a 1:48 Avenger TBM-3 by Academy.)
@@eagle5600 Glad to help! For #1, tweezers - some very small needle nosed type. That'll help a lot. Also, leave a little extra paper on to grip, and just make a light slice near the decal to cut through the film. This gives a "grab handle". #2 Definitely Solvaset. And slicing the decals helps. Micro Sol is weak like a baby fart. :) Solvaset is the heat!
Have fun with it!
Jon, I initially praised your video last week after watching, saying I had learned some "important stuff". Well, that important stuff is when you showed us painting the decal in pure water after you apply it to get it in the right position. That is a true game changer! I had always kept applying more Micro Set, getting very frustrated trying to move it and in many cases destroying the decal in the process. Using pure water has ended all that. Just came back from a decaling session tonight, and using the water saved my decals several times. And the neat part is even if it looks like it has already settled and set, applying the water floats it back up so you can re-position it. Again, numerous thanks for a great video. Guys, if you follow Jon's instructions step by step, you can get great results!
Thanks so much for your kind words! And I'm so glad that technique was helpful. That's such an awesome encouragement!
Thanks as always for watching and commenting!
Olga friend, I don't use a micro set, nor do I need to, nor does anyone else. That's a mistake, you have to give it a good layer of varnish, then use diluted white glue and it stays well fixed, then with the final varnish it's splendid, I've been using this technique for over 20 years.
“Put those stickers on!” I’m really new to modeling and have found that your step by step is exactly the starting instruction I needed…thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
So first, thank you for making this video. It was super helpful. I bought a model kit the other day and after opening it up and looking at the instructions, the literal first steps were to apply some decals to the cockpit console and I quickly realized I haven't actually assembled a model with decals and had absolutely no clue about them, except for the fact that I have heard they can be tough to apply. After watching this video I feel confident enough to do it. Thank you!
I'm so glad you found it helpful! That really means a lot to me. And thanks for watching and commenting!
"Put those stickers on" - GREAT Tutorial! A long time has passed since I used decals when I was a kid building toys, now I got involved in a project to put together a Space ship with two decks and a lot of decals representing the equipments in the control deck and in the living quarters deck. In a 1:48 scale and highly detailed graphics it can easily intimidate an inexperienced hobbyist. I've already got the tools necessary and now I'm learning how to apply them. Your video gave me the confidence and assurance that I can relax and slowly and patiently achieve this task, and best of all, that I will have FUN in the process. With Gratitude and Appreciation for the work you do. THANK YOU🙏
Thanks so much for your kind words! I am so glad you found the video helpful. You are absolutely right - the key is take your time and have fun. It sounds like a great project you're working on - enjoy the journey!
Thanks so very much for watching and commenting! Happy day to you friend. 😊
A very helpful video Jon! I’m about to put many stickers on my BF109 E3.
Many thanks for the long hours of work you’ve put into these presentations and the extremely helpful information! 👍
I'm glad you found that helpful! Thanks so much for watching and commenting. Have fun with your Emil!
Superb step-by-step! When I was a teenager (decades ago) I was always annoyed by the silvering of decals, without knowing what to do about it. After a colleague gave me her son's barely started Revell 1/72 Millenium Falcon in 2015, I launched back into scale models with a passion. I'd seen several videos of using setting solutions, and wish I'd come upon this one first. The biggest challenge was the Imperial emblem on the round helmet of the 1/72 Fine Molds TIE fighter pilot helmet. I learned more lessons from the doing than from the videos, and NOW those videos make sense. I'm curious why you selected the Walthers solvent over the Microscale Industries Micro Sol. Hotter? Cooler? Cheaper? Easier to apply? Keep putting those stickers on!
Thanks so much for watching, and for your comment!
I have the Micro Sol/Set, but I find the Solvaset to be a bit stronger, and I like the results better. It tames decals that the other won't. So definitely because it's a bit hotter.
Thanks again!
thank you for clear instruction, I can't wait to try my first decals....... I have experience in air brush art but water slide decals are new to me, can't wait to try it!
I'm glad you found it helpful! Have fun and be patient and you'll do great. 😊
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video on decaling!!! One of the best I've seen. You covered the process very well. Your examples were small decals and I sometimes do large graffiti decals on rolling stock but your solutions likely work for all types of decaling.
Glad it was helpful! And thank you for your kind words.
You're correct - the handling of small decals will be similar to large decals. One thing I have found helpful in working with larger decals is to cut them into smaller sections, and then align them on the model. Quite often that can be very helpful. I used to do that quite a bit when I built aircraft and needed to put the shark's teeth on P-40s! :D
Thanks again for your kind words, and thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks Jon...I built Models as a kid, and later as an adult (questionable...Ha Ha) but that was short lived because I was just to busy. Now that I'm retired I thought i would go back and finish some that I had started and start some new ones ....So again for all the tips, much needed
I'm glad you found the videos helpful! Welcome back to the hobby - I hope you enjoy it. :D
Happy day to you!
Very good explanation, thanks :O)
Although I'm an advanced modeller I find it often usefull to do a 'refresh course' about techniques that (sometimes) have become routines,
but because of the 'been there done that' attitude have also become a little sloppy. So i regularly (with pleasure) I take a look at Lesson #1.
One may know much but sometimes, because of that, forget the basics.
Keep up those usefull video's !
Glad it was helpful! And I feel the same way. Continual refreshing in the basics helps keep the foundation solid.
Thanks so much for wathcing and commenting!
G'day Jon, now let's get those stickers on! Thank you, again, for another truly helpful video. I have to admit, sometimes, I suffer from 'decalphobia'. The main company that makes RAAF decals down here in Australia make super thin decals that can rip apart even if you look at them sideways ;) Very fragile. But, mostly, they are the only game in town if I want to model a real aircraft that served in the RAAF. So, I've been very nervous about placing these decals on. They are not cheap either and if I mess them up, I've got to start again and buy some more.
So, your tips and most importantly, seeing you put on a typical decal, using your method has really helped me.
I have micro sol and micro set so, I've decided to go through my old kits and find plastic components that weren't needed in the build and use them as nothing but practice pieces for decal application. Thanks again, Jon. Cheers, Bill H.
Thanks Bill! Using spare practice for plastic is definitely helpful. Work slowly with those fragile decals, and you should be OK.
Thanks again for watching and commenting!
Nicely done Jon - thank you for sharing your experience. Now let's get those stickers on!
Thank you so much! And thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you for making this video! I watched it before and while making my own project. This was the very first time I ever put decals on a model, and thought I’d mess up royally (hence why prior, I bought 3 of the same decal sheets just in case 😂), but I actually didn’t, except one time that was remedied thanks to the spares.
I love how you made your explanations straightforward and very simple, and large thanks to that my model came out greatly!
I am so glad you found it helpful, and thanks so much for your kind words. Have fun with your model! Thanks for watching and commenting. 😊
Another very informative video, thanks Jon!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the video. I'm doing a train car in memory of a friend that passed to surprise his dad with. I was nervous about trying to lay the decals. I did a test today on another train car I had and it turned out pretty decent. Going to do the first side of the actual car tomorrow and I'm a lot less nervous now. Thank you for the informational video
That sounds like a great project - I know your friend will appreciate it. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Great content ! Personally I know this for a long time but many modelists are feeling uncomfortable with transfers and don't always know about products like Microsol which really make our life more easy !
Thanks so much, and thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the tips Jon.
You bet! Thanks for watching and commenting!
You explained the reasons for the different techniques which is often lacking in other videos. Well done.
I'm glad you liked it - thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on. I learned so much. I've been building models since I was 8, living overseas and couldn't wait for the Mac flights to arrive as being a military bratand bring my monthly subscription model with the Revell co I di believe. However we just let the decals float in the warm water till they moved on the paper to apply them and still did until this video. Im 57 now. WOWED
I'm so glad the video was help! Thanks so much for your kind words, and for watching and commenting. Happy day to you!
Putting those stickers on while watching you share! Love the Mandalorian reference!
Thanks brother! I'm so glad you liked it! Have a great weekend. 😊
Very informative. Thank you for this video.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Best description of the process I've seen on youtube. Thank you. Put those stickers on!
Thanks so much - I am grateful! And thanks for watching and commenting!
Excellent video. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video, thanks Jon
Glad you enjoyed it! And thank you so much for watching and commenting!
Really Great tips. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi Jon. Just came across your channel and was instantly caught by your calm, collected and humorous way of presenting. Unlike so many others on YT who seem to be in a haste, overconfident, arrogant or overly instructive you have just the right balance. Even though I'm modeling for ages now, I'm aware there is so much more to learn. You make learning fun. I would suggest a part 2 with some decaling examples on the "real things" where you show all the mentioned techniques in depth. Keep going and being you!
Thanks so much for your kind words! I have other videos showing application of decals. Check the chapter links in each video. Some of the info there may be helpful also.
Here's some:
An overall decal video focused on Gunpla: czcams.com/video/7AONuVnylEg/video.html
A video focused on chipping decals: czcams.com/video/Thg8Cy5A2BE/video.html
Several others that demonstrate decals in the video, and have specific details:
czcams.com/video/_0ZwjmVX314/video.html
czcams.com/video/9tRkQQSL5BU/video.html
czcams.com/video/aGkBMvzDS8Q/video.html
czcams.com/video/Ux1i5qGJoDM/video.html
It's probably not a bad idea to do another dedicated decal video though - suggestion duly noted!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Wow thanks just what i needed!!
I'm glad you found that helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!
wow this is great!
Thanks so much, and thanks for watching and commenting!
thank you for this video , it was great pleasure watching and it help me a lot
I'm glad it helped! Thank you so much for your kind words, and for watching and commenting. Happy day to you friend!
Very informative!
Thanks so much! I am grateful. 😊
GREAT VIDEO
Thanks! Happy day to you!
Good job!
Thanks! Happy day to you friend!
Thanks for the advise buddy. Still crapping myself 🤣🤣🤣 I’m building 2006 Shelby, about to put down the gold stripes. Wish me luck. Cheers mate Paul in the uk. 🇬🇧🍾🍾🍾 all the very best in 2024. 🤘🏻👍👍👍👍🍺
Have fun with it, and may you have a happy and prosperous 2024!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great tips....! Tks a Lot!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
I have pronounced it for 60 years as: dee-kal. I never heard any variations till I used youtube! decal noun de·cal ˈdē-ˌkal di-ˈkal Canadian usually ˈde-kəl Great video! You are the first guy I have watched who explains "silvering" and how it occurs. I am downloading and saving this video. Kudos.
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks so much for your kind words, and for watching and commenting. Happy day to you!
Put those stickers on ! ! Just discovered your channel Jon and really enjoying your content and knowledge. Thank you ! !
I'm so glad you found it helpful! Please do subscribe. And thanks for watching and commenting! 😊
Thanks Jon - really will help me with 'putting those stickers on'!
Awesome! I'm so glad it was helpful. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
You're so kind and detailed in explaining. Great video. I ordered today McLaren-Mercedes formula MP4/13 in 1/18 scale and also decals from another seller. When it all arrive I'll have to remove factory decals and put new ''West'' decals, but I don't have those liquids for removing and applying decals. I hope I'll make it.
Thanks so much for your kind words! And I'm so glad the video was helpful.
I hope that works out well for you - I've never tried that process before!
Happy day to you friend!
Thanks for sharing your process….and of course put those stickers oooon!😜
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
This is fantastic, thank you. This is the discipline I need to work on the most...
Thanks so much! And I do like that you use the word "discipline"! While it is a hobby, improvement in various aspects of it do require persistence, diligence, and trial and error. Keep striving!
Thanks again, and thanks for watching and commenting!
Stickers, schmickers !
Thanks for the tricks, especially about silvering and curved surfaces
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Thanks so much for your kind words, and for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the tips
Thank you for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on. Very informative. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks so much for your kind words! Happy day to you!
Thanks Jon for this video. I am getting back into car models ect. This will help a lot. Wished I knew this as a kid. I hated putting decals on.
I'm glad it was helpful! Welcome back to the hobby - have fun with it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Nice video. Very good details 👌
Thanks so much, and thanks for watching and commenting!
I like what you are doing. For me, I use distilled water for my decals. It helps keep the silvering away. But, I will try the warm water trick. For me, I have a lot of Rail equipment to do! 😉
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Getting ready to PUT THOSE STICKERS ON for the first time on my first gunpla build, thanks for the advice :D
Have fun! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Great video, learned lot. here's two tips I've been given, self locking tweezers help and bluetack under the bottles stop you knocking them over!
Good tips! Thanks for watching and commenting!
What is blue tack? I spilled my micro sol on my decals. After closing the micro set every time I used it. Any information is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Great video! What would u recommend to protect a decal after it’s set on an already painted & glossed die cast car
I don't have any experience with die cast models, but I would say in general it's good to put some sort of protective layer over decals. I would say test whatever gloss coat you plan to use on a less visible space to test how it will look.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Another very useful vid. I am building a very o,d P6-E kit. How do I prepare old decals? Put on those stickers!
Thank you!
My number one way of dealing with old decals was to see if I could buy new replacements. (Seriously.) Too often old decals can't be recovered.
If that is not an option, I first overcoated them with Pledge/Future (or other clear acrylic gloss). Then, instead of dunking them in water, I cut the decal out, and set it on a wet paper towel, gently adding a brushful of water around the edges. Once it seems to move freely, gently pick it up with tweezers, being careful not to touch the decal itself. Using the moist brush, gently nudge it onto the model as close to being placed and aligned correctly as possible. This minimizes the need for further adjustment. Use a cotton bud to soak up excess water - again without touching it. Once it has had a few minutes to dry, apply decal setting solution around the edges, not touching the decal. Then leave it alone, preferably overnight. Once it is dry then, it should be able to take a second coat of setting solution if needed.
If there is any silvering, I generally used paint to cover it up.
The key is to take it very slowly, and touch the decal as little as possible. If it shatters once wet - it's generally too far gone for use.
I hope that helps! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on..
I've been building tamiya 1/14 semi trucks for years and now delving back into my childhood hobby of building 1/24 cars so this was a great tutorial and refresher for me as I haven't used waterslides for at least 30 years 👍
Glad it was helpful - thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Great video Jon! Have you noticed any connection between the temperature of the water (or other factors) and the occurrence of silvering? As a side note, I've been using Mr. Mark Setter and Softer. MicroSol and Set are pretty safe but not very powerful. If you're not careful with Mark Softer, it'll melt your decals and not in a good way. I'll keep putting my stickers on!
Thanks so much! 😊
I think there is a correlation between temperature and silvering, but it's still very dependent on surface prep, and how quickly you get the decal from the water to the model. I think it is helpful in avoiding silvering, but not a huge factor. And if the other aspects aren't factored in, I don't know that it helps at all. In my own work, I think carefully and deliberately working out the bubbles after placement is the biggest single factor.
Yeah, the Mr. Mark twins are quite hot. That's why I like Solvaset. It's in the middle in my experience.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
thanks for the help I just got my uh60 Blackhawk done with decals it looks SOO mush better
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I do put those stickers on.
All of my kits so far haven't come with Waterdecals, maybe I'll order some.
What's your opinion on dry transfer decals? I've really been enjoying them, they look great and are so easy to put on.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I do like dry transfers, quite a bit. They do take a bit of care as I'm sure you know. There's not much "forgiveness" with them!
Legend thank you
Thank you so much, you are too kind! :D
Happy day to you!
Another great video. Thanks for the explanation. One question. I can’t find microset near me or not so expensive with my local hobby shop. (Something between $50 bucks) 😖😖😖What other product can i use ?
Thanks so much! I'm glad you liked it. And thanks for watching and commenting. 😊
Vallejo has a product called Decal Fix, and Gunze has Mr. Mark Setter. I'm sure there are others, so check around. Test them out before use to check if they have negative interaction with the paint.
An old school method is to mix some clear vinegar with water in a one-to-one mix. I've done that and it works nicely!
Hope that helps!
Luv the stickers 😁
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on! I'm just getting prepared to put some decals on the first model I've done since returning to the hobby. thanks for the tips
That's great to hear - enjoy the process!
Thanks so much for your kind words, and for watching and commenting. Happy day to you!
Put those stickers on!!! Another great video Jon.
Thanks so much! I appreciate it. Happy day to you!
Thanks for another helpful video, Jon! I was wondering if you've ever had any issues with setting solutions reacting to the gloss coat. A lot of people run into this issue, myself included.
Thanks so much for your kind words!
I've actually not had any problems, though I know several folks have told me they have. What gloss coat and setting solution were you using?
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I've had that happen occasionally with setting solutions over Future. The setting solution reacts with the acrylic and makes it look cloudy. It's usually temporary; I think the acid in the solution reacts with the acrylic. But it can go away on its own. When it hasn't, I've applied a bit of fresh Future over it, which cleared it up (no pun intended, but I'll take it). And when I apply the matte varnish (DullCote), the clouding is gone.
Thanks for helping me with my Dinky!
Thank you for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on! I'm building a WW1 Albatros D. V which involves using a lot of decals on a white gloss under coat. I like to use Tamiya paint, but I have a problem with their white gloss. I can't get it to turn glossy without building up a heavy coat. I don't like to use Pledge as it too is a heavy coat. I was thinking of spaying a Tamiya flat white and then air brushing a gloss clear coat. What do you recommend for the clear coat? Do you know anything about a Windsor Newton product.
Great video.Thanks
Thanks for your kind word, and thanks for watching and commenting!
I don't know anything about the W&N product, so I'd not be able to help there.
With white, I usually go for a more satin finish by cutting a bit of the gloss white with the flat white. Some test sprays will show if perhaps some Tamiya clear gloss can be added to the mix. If you do go with a flat white cost, gently buff it with a soft cotton cloth, and then apply a gloss coat over that. Tamiya flat white is quite textured at a microscopic level, so trying to gloss over it can be challenging.
I hope that helps. Thanks again!
Put those stickers on! Thanks John, I recently had some issues with stars n bars wrinkling on a wildcat.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Yeah, wrinkles can happen. In many cases, I've been able to work through them. But now and again, I strip the decal off and just do it again. It's a pain, but sometimes necessary! I hope you can get it sorted out!
Awesome video thanks. I have made a rookie mistake and have already attached mine to my tank without any prep. I've noticed that some haven't stuck down. Is there anything I can spray on to keep them in place please?
Normally if I see adheres that are not adhering under the decal, I make very fine slices in the area where the bubble is, and then add some Solvaset or other strong setting solution. That gets under the decal and helps pull it down. Depending on the severity of the situation, it may need to be done a few times, waiting for the different repairs to dry before proceeding.
I hope that helps!
@@JonBius thanks so much. I really appreciate you getting back to me so quickly. I will give it a go. I appreciate your time.
Thanks very helpful, I have my first set of decals sitting in front of me. Put those stickers on!
Glad it helped! Thank you so much for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on !! Thanks for the education brother. Been 50+yrs since I have done a model. Doing the ship I was on as a young sailor in the 70s.
USS Saratoga CV-60. I enjoyed your tutelage, carry on.
I'm glad you found it helpful! Thanks so much for watching and commenting. Happy day to you!
@@JonBius is it OK to use a matte clear finish before applying decals. I messed up and used matte clear instead of gloss clear. I haven't applied any decals yet. Should I apply another coat of gloss, or can I apply decals on the matte clear finish?
@@AshVol-wz8rb The purpose of a gloss coat is to make a smooth finish that the decals will adhere to without bubbles. A matte coat creates a slightly textured surface (at a microscopic level), so it's not very decal friendly. I'd suggest lightly buffing the matte finish with a soft cotton cloth or t-shirt, and then applying a gloss coat. (Test an area first.)
Hope that helps!
@@JonBiusthanks brother, I have a soft cloth that should work. Finances hinder my hobby at times. But info from men like you make it worthwhile. Appreciate you brother.
@@AshVol-wz8rbThanks so much!
PUT THOSE STICKERS ON! Thanks for the great tutorial!
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks for your kind words, and for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on! Very informative video. Thank you.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on Jon. Another great video! I like to ask, what is best, apply the weathering on first before decaling or the other way around? Appreciate your advice. A friend, Mike
Thanks so much Mike! I am grateful for your kind words!
My preference is to put decals on before weathering, so that they get dirtied up to the same degree as the rest of the model. I do apply a clear varnish over them to seal them in and protect them against the weathering process.
I hope that helps. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Good video on decals - I'm from Canada originally, so I pronounce their name the other way. By the way, put those stickers on, is a really good idea.
I always have fun with the various ways people pronounce that. One time some fellows were discussing that at a model show, and asked me "Do you say "DEE-kals" of "DEK-uhls"?" I gave them a serious, puzzled look, and said "I thought they were called "WAH-tare slee-DAYS"..." And then I just walked on, leaving them looking quite confused. 😁
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Oh, and nice Mando reference Jon.👍🏻
Thanks! :D
Hi Jon, thanks for all the info and advice. One question for you. For older decals, have you had luck with decal "fix"? Are there any other methods for restoring older decal sheets? I've tried the decal fix in the past but it really didn't help, resulting in the decal falling apart. Thanks in advance.
-John
On really old decals, it can be quite difficult to get them to work if they're really dried out. I've had some success with spraying Testors Decal spray, which is meant to be used with their decal paper. However, I've not used that in years, so I don't know if it is even around anymore.
Another thing I have done is to overbrush them with Pledge (Future). One coat, let it dry, and then another. Instead of soaking the decal in water, I set it on a damp paper towel and let the water absorb through the paper. (It takes a while.) That seems to work well.
But if they're really too far gone, it may be a lost cause.
I hope that helps! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius Thanks, I'll try the floor polish!
Hello, thank you very much for you knowledge sharing. I've build just my second model and already mastered a bit brushing, air brushing, paint thinning, varnishing but still decals applying for me is madness. I'm trying to find the handy way for me how to set it. For now I'm using a brush to slid the decal from it's paper base and putting decal with the brush. You're doing it with the finger - ok, maybe I'll try that too :) But moving the decal with hobby knife ... wow... you should feel very confident with that. I'm too newbie to do that, I'm pretty sure that I'll damage it. What do you think about tamiya 74052 tweezers for decals? I wonder if it will make applying decals easier. Thank you very much once again for sharing the experience, it helps a lot!
Thank you so much for your kind words!
As with all things modeling, finding out the best way for decal application that fits your preferences and needs will ultimately come from experience and repetition. For example, the secret of using the knife blade is never use a new blade. :) (I tend to always use older blades for everything apart from cutting canopy masking.)
And if I may suggest a thought... in my own work, I've always tried to avoid thinking I've mastered a technique or process, but rather I've simply further refined it. I think you'll discover that over time and repetition of building you'll always learn new things. There may be fewer dramatic jumps in skills or understanding, but I've found that while it can be relative quick (with diligence) to reach a "95%" mark. But it is in that last 5% that I believe one discovers that it is the steepest climb - and that 100% is unattainable ultimately. There's always more to learn. Forgive me for lecturing - not my intent at all! But I thought I'd pass along my own experience in hopes it might be helpful.
With regards to the tweezers, I don't really know as I've never used those. In fact, the tweezers i use are fairly generic, cheap, and most notable for their lack of notability. :) What I have done with them is a bit of filing and bending here and there to get them to do the things I want. Good tools are almost always helpful, but the real key is the hand that holds them.
Keep pursuing it, keep building and learning and trying things. Deliberate pursuit of experience, and thoughtful evaluation of them, will be the key to growth. And ultimately it will make the hobby ever so much more fun and satisfying.
Happy day to you!
@@JonBius Thank you! Agree there is no limit for becoming better and better in any skill. I'm just starting to master each and every of it and hope I'll be slowly moving further. It's also a part of pleasure to master smth and step-by-step moving to the finish of building the model. So, for me it's two-in-one process.
Thank you once again and have a great day!
Put thise stickers on!
Just found your channel a few days ago. Very informative and well put together. I'd be interested to see some comparisons of the various decal solutions out there. I see VMS make decal fixer and softener which I haven't tried yet. I live in the UK and haven't been able to get hold of the solvaset you used in this video. I use MicroSol but the results are hit and miss.
Thanks for your kind words, and for watching and commenting!
I've gotten to where I rarely to many product comparisons. I've tried so many over they ears, I'm at the point where I'm happy with what I use, and they act exactly like I want, so the pursuit of "perfect" is less enticing. I did try the VMS stuff and find it better than MicroSet/Sol, though not as hot a Solvaset. So I use VMS for the pre-treatment if needed, and then either VMS or Solvaset, depending on how thick the decals are. The thicker ones get Solvaset.
Thanks again - happy day to you!
Put those stickers on! I recently ordered some home printed decals and noticed that the edges curl upwards a biz after drying. I tried MicroSol, but that made it seemingly worse. Any advice on what could be done with these?
Thanks for watching and commenting!
MicroSol is a fairly weak solution. With homemade decals, it might not have the power to soften them sufficiently to hold them down. I'd recommend trying Solvaset instead, as it is a little hotter.
Also, for homemade decals, make sure you put something like Microset down first - that will help. (As does a glossy surface.)
HTH
Great advice! Put those stickers on!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
"Put those stickers on!" 🖐 Thanks for the informative video.
I'm glad you liked it! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on ...lol excellent video =)
Thanks so much! I'm glad you liked it. 😊
And thanks for watching and commenting!
One thing about locally handbrushing a glass coat : don't do this without a test ! I have melted fully cured Vallejo paint when coating it with Tamiya X-22 (it happened way before this video, don't blame yourself Jon :) )
Oh, wow! I'm sorry to hear about that! Yeah, those types of gloss coats can be airbrushed on, but brush painting can definitely introduce problems.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius At least I learnt my lesson : when you wanna brush something over aything water-based, check it doesn't contain alcohol :shrug:
Need your advice again, can you Unset a decal when set after 2 days? I used Mr Mark Setter & Mr Mark Softer. I Don't want to Remove but Adjust decal. Thanks Again
After that much time you'd likely risk damaging/ruining the decal, and possibly the paint work underneath. In some cases where I've been in that position, I'd paint in "corrections" by hand. Admittedly though that only works in some situations.
Hope that helps!
Thanks~
@@JonBius it's crooked, not lined up straight. Just want to know, could I Just turn it a little. Thanks Jon. It's a 1/48 Maltese cross on Albatros d.111
@@slougo5909 Gotcha. I really doubt it would work. I mean - you could try, of course. But unless it's just not set, it might create problems. Good luck however you deal with it!
Great vid! Put those stickers on! 😊
Thanks so much for watching and commenting! :D
Hi this was very helpful🇬🇧😊&put those stickers on lol
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks so much for watching and commenting! 🙂
You’re welcome
Hey their! So should I polish and shine the body before I put decals on? Also should I panel line before I clear out?
If you're applying decals and panel lining, I'd recommend this order: paint, clear gloss coat, decals, spot gloss coat on decals, then panel line. Hope that helps!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Ahhhhh ok, your awesome man thanks so much great video!!
I just wasn’t sure because I herd some people say that panel liner after decals could lift or mess up the decals if it gets behind it. But I’m assuming that’s why you said to sot gloss after I apply them?
Exactly. The second coat seals them in.
put those stickers on, just getting into modeling. love the info.
Awesome! Welcome to the hobby! Thank you for letting me be a small part of your journey, and thanks for the kind words, and for watching and commenting! Happy day to you. 😊
Put those stickers on!! Thanks for the advice!
No problem! Thanks for watching and commenting!
If the surface has a flat or satin finish, I will just place a drop of Future (or whatever its called now) where Im applying the decal and just place the wet decal into it. Ive never had a decal silver that way and it will on permanently even if the decals are old and the glue doesn't hold anymore.
Yep - that is a great technique! I do that a lot on Warhammer models. In my aircraft days, I often heard it referred to as the "Future Puddle method". :)
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius It works especially well on car models because the markings look painted on. Unfortunately, it doesn't work with other acrylic paints because they grab the decal too fast. The slipperiness of the future lets you slide it around until you're happy.
Put those stickers on! Great tutorials! :)
Thanks so much for watching and commenting! 😊
Put those stickers on. I watched to the end. I was looking on how to put decals on a 1/18 diecast car with opening doors. What do I do, cut decal on the Crack and apply the solvent? I want to do it right, I'm decaling up a 64 Ford Lightning drag car that is white and what do I do after I'm happy with the decals? Spray with a clear?
In situations like that, I usually put the decal on in one piece, straddling the gap. Apply the decal solution and let dry. Then carefully cut the decal using a new knife blade. Cut carefully and slowly. Once its cut, apply some more setting solution, and once that's dry, seal it with clear varnish and proceed with any additional steps.
I hope that helps. Thanks so much for watching and commenting! I am grateful!
Excellent video Jon! Found it super helpful and informative, thank you very much :) I have a question about whether I need to apply a top coat over my water slide decals or not??? I purchased a few blank promotional diecast model trucks and applied water slide decals to them straight out of the box and that's all that I will be doing to them - nothing more. My question is do I need to apply a top coat over the decals even though I won't be doing anything else to the model trucks? Without a clear coat will the decals last as long as the models aren't handled. The model trucks are going right up on the shelf.
Thanks so much!
I'm not sure when it comes to die cast. My concern would be the effect on the metallic finish - it might change the sheen. But it would seal them in nicely.
I'd recommend doing a spot application to a smaller decal and see what you think.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius Thanks for your input - its much appreciated :) I was asking more about if decals need to have a top coat over them. Is it mandatory? Can your decals remain intact for years to come without a top coat over them?
@@StevenFreezy A lot of factors go into that. Humidity, light, handling, conditions in the air... All can impact the decals and paint.
It comes down to your estimation of the conditions. Is it required? Not at all. Is it prudent? That's the question.
Thanks!
;When using Solvaset. The decal will wrinkle some while it is drying. Don't touch it or do anything. The wrinkles will disappear when dry. Some beginners think they have to take the wrinkles out. This is the normal process with Solvaset. It is a very aggressive decal solution. Don't worry they will settle down. I usually use Solvaset with very stubborn decals.
Mmmm …. Stickers. About to put digital camo decals on the ghost of Kyiv MIG-29 I am building. Very helpful.
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting, and good luck with your project!
Thanks for a great tutorial. I’m curious - why do you not use Micro Sol as the setting/softening solution, but instead a different brand?
Thanks so much!
I use Solvaset rather than MicroSol simply because Solvaset is stronger, and in my experience does a MUCH better job of softening up the decal. I'd tried MicroSol at first, but found some decals just didn't cooperate. Switching to Solvaset, I found it made any decal conform to the surface. Pretty much if Solvaset won't work, nothing else will.
MicroSol is good, I just think Solvaset is a fair bit better.
Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius thanks for the feedback - I think I understand what your’e sayinf. I recenetly did an experiment with some decals, and it didn’t work that well in all occasions.
Put those stickers on! Thanks for the info. Is there a top coat that's especially good at protecting decals from handling? I'm looking to apply decals to a transformers toy so I need them to be protected from skin oils, general manhandling.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
I'd suggest trying a lacquer spray varnish. However, they can be quite "hot", so you'd want to test a spot or two, and put it on in light coats. That's probably your most durable option.
With that said, continued handling will eventually wear on paint and decals in my experience.
I hope that helps!
I have Mr Mark Setter and Softer, is that an equivalent for what you use?
Yes, they are analogous. I would recommend testing on a scrap decal so you'll see how they behave.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
How do you prevent the waterspots from foriming, aka the residue left behind from the solvaset?
I've not had that happen actually. Any residue I've observed is left from the decal film. However, in general, a quick wipe with a barely damp cotton bud (damp with water) may do it. Certainly later clear coats, weathering, etc., should also cover it. Also, make sure you're not overdoing it with the Solvaset.
HTH! Thanks for watching and commenting. 😊
Put them stickers on. Float folded decals in a dish of water. Sometimes it'll umfold. Maneuver with toothpicks.
Yep, I've done that too! LOL (And "sometimes" is spot on. 🤣)
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Awesome tutorial! What you use to clean after you put on the decals before clear?
If they need a bit of cleaning, I just wipe them down lightly with a clean paint brush and water. Just the barest bit of damp... that'll clean up residue. But most often - I don't do anything, as later weathering steps will blend things anyway.
So if I were to use Micro Set would I put down the Micro Set then adjust the decal on it and then go over it again with the Micro Set after its positioned? Or just clear coat over it?... 🤔
It all depends on what you're trying to accomplish after the decals, and the qualify of the decal and underlying surface. czcams.com/video/lXg3S-nryTY/video.html
Safe bet - put down a surface prep solution (Micro Set for example), position the decal, apply a setting solution (Solvaset for example), and then once dry apply whatever type of clear coat is dictated by following steps.
@@JonBiusthank you so much! I went and grabbed some Micro Sol to use with it (totally forgot to grab any solvent before). I'm doing a custom Gundam model. I think I understand the process fully now and have all of the right stuff to do it thanks to you. Again, thank you so much!
This was super informative! One additional question I have is after applying the waterslide I am able to see the clear edges, creating hard lines around the image. Do I need to cut closer to the ink of the decal or is this an application process issue?
Thanks for your kind words! I am glad it was helpful.
It can actually be one, both, or an additional factor! 😊It does help to cut away as much of the clear carrier film as possible. However, if the knife is not very sharp, the cutting can actually raise the edges, so a new blade is always a help. Additionally, making an initial score that just goes through the carrier film only can keep those edges even.
The application process can also impact those edges. If the surface is not smooth, or if there are air bubbles underneath, it can cause issues. Surface prep is also a key to good adherence and smooth decals.
A third factor though can be the thickness of the decals. When I built aircraft, I rarely used Tamiya's kit decals because they were often quite thick. I opted instead for higher quality aftermarket decals. Decals thickness can be addressed to some degree by a post-decal application of another gloss coat, but for very thick decals that doesn't always work.
As with anything, there will be some trial and error, and every decal set may be a bit different. Hopefully this info will help you assess the situations and then come up with a solution.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!