Applying Decals to Scale Models… Made Easy! | Beginner Tutorial
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- čas přidán 22. 01. 2024
- In this beginner-friendly scale modeling tutorial, we'll take a look at a simple & effective method for applying waterslide decals! Decals can seem tricky at first when you're just getting started in the hobby… but they don't need to be! By following these easy steps, you'll be cruising through the process & applying perfect decals to your model kits every time.
Want even more scale modeling content? Join the SpruesNBrew Brew Club today! / @spruesnbrews
Products Used:
Model Kit (Some Recommendations):
Gloss Varnish (Airbrush): amzn.to/47I3jSd
Gloss Varnish (Spray Can): amzn.to/49nW7fB
Paint Brushes: amzn.to/2Yx1Gti
Micro Set: amzn.to/48JYOrM
Micro Sol: amzn.to/48JYOrM
Hobby Knife: amzn.to/3o9jVxz
Cross-Lock Tweezers: amzn.to/3wF8qC5
Other Great Gear!
Modeling Mat: tankraft.com/
Sprue Cutters: amzn.to/302W2zX
Respirator: amzn.to/3qhQfRz
Air Compressor / Air Brush Combo: amzn.to/3BQXdiJ
Air Brush: amzn.to/3wpyhO2
Camera: amzn.to/3pRwkaX
Tripod: amzn.to/3MHXr24
Desk Lamp: amzn.to/3KF28Ip
**As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases (at no extra cost to you)! - Jak na to + styl
Hi my name is Gary i am not new to model building, i have been building models for about 50 years or longer, i just started watching your videos and i am very impressed by your World War 2 knowledge and modeling ability. I build everything from balsa wood airplanes to ships tanks cars etc. Take care.😊
That sounds insane mate
Coming back to the modeling world after 50 years (I know...), it's a brand new and VERY different world! Thank you for all your tips and techniques.
That 222 looks really good. I have one with the sidecar motorcycle in the stash.
Big 👍 for Microset and Microsol. They're invaluable.
Thanks! And I hear ya - gotta have 'em!!
Aaah, typical! After watching random videos on YT on micro set and sol, my favourite channel gives me a proper one... after I applied my Sherman decals 😂 I barely managed, having minor panic attacks when my decals started creasing in weird ways. Waiting for things to dry is the key! Had I know that before Saturday! Adding this one to my go-to list when in doubt. Thanks, Mr Hank!
I just started this hobby and my first modle i bouht was bismarck 1/700 hopefully its not gonna be hard! Only problem is gonna be painting bc i dont have airbrush.. so all painting has to be done by normal brush.
Thank you for this lesson. Got the set/sol but hadn't gotten to that phase yet. Working on the panzerkampf II model from Tamiya which has been recommended as a good starting kit. So far so good though one of my pieces is missing in the carpet (ugh!) Found two other pieces that had flown off so I am hoping I will find this one. Then it will be time to start painting. Used your guide for acquiring the equipment needed to make the model. So thank you for your help.
I'm gonna watch every videos of yours cus maaaan your videos are medium well! **chef kiss** And also so that you don't stop making these videos.
Haha thanks so much - I'm glad you enjoy!
Excellent video. What I like to do when possible is cut as close to the contours of the decal as possible to eliminate as much of the silvering as I can after its applied. I do find that on surfaces with a lot of peaks and valleys, such as wrinkles on a shirt, or just about any uneven surface, that Tamiya's Mark Fit Strong works best to soften the decals to conform and lie flat to the surface. (plus, it has its own brush). I am hesitant to use a knife to position the decal. A medium stiff brush (Tamiya 87214) or toothpick works best for me.
I've seen so many beautiful builds over the years only to have the decal job ruin it. Rushing this basic step just to finish and get that build over and done with usually is the culprit. A little " silvering " on just one decal blows the whole job ! I enjoy your simple videos, keep'm coming ! Cheers !
Thanks so much! I appreciate it 👍
excellent tutorial Hank! Thanks
Thanks a million! I appreciate it!
Thanks. . . It's always a fight between me and the decals everytime.
I hear ya - hopefully this helps!
4:20 would consider using a brush instead. Its possible to damage the decal with the knive :) Love the products, used them many times.
Aye I could see myself ripping the decal apart if I did that as he demonstrated.
I’m glad you considered using a paint brush, go ahead and use a paint brush, good luck.
I’ve been buying up DECALS off €Bay the last couple of months
Some of the kits in my stash
Are OLD ISSUE KITS
1970s 80s, so the DECALS aren’t in very good shape…
I’m glad I SUBSCRIBED !!!!!
I’ve learned a lot, and improved my skills…
Even after 50+ years building models ( 25 years OFF ) to raise a family, it’s fun getting back into it….
MODEL ON………
CHRIS 🇺🇸
be careful with the old decals. Many can not be used anymore because they disintegrade once they hit water. there are some tricks to conserve them here on youtube, but once they are too old and have been wrongly placed (too cold/dry/sunny/wet air around them) they are gone sadly.
@seegurke93
In addition to Microsol and Microset, Microscale also makes a product called Liquid Decal Film. Brush it on old decals to give them a new, clear surface that won't break apart. I've used it twice with good success. The only caveat is that by brushing the liquid over a decal sheet, you've essentially made one big decal. So be sure to trim closely to the decal you want to use.
Thanks
I just started and was looking for info about the decals. What I found out is that you want to leave enough room when you cut the decal to hold the backing paper with tweezers, but not have the tweezers on top of the decals. Only the graphic part comes off the backing paper, not any of the plastic that's around the decal.
How do you clean the brushes after using the Micro Sol/Set?? Paint thinner... water??
Micro set and sol will last you years, as long as you don’t spill half the bottle
Haha this is the truth
I bought a new bottle and promptly did just that a couple days later! 😂
Hey, I am working on a Revell F4U Corsair and I used acrylic, brush paint to paint it. I tried to apply decals (I had known how prior to the video) and they would stick really well, too well. I was not able to adjust them right after placing them like they should. How do I solve this? Does the clear coat fix this?
Nice!!! BTW - luv the Snow White bowl... :)
Haha thanks!
@@SpruesNBrews Hank, couple of questions here, does warm water versus cold make any real difference for you, and... will the Snow White bowl be on your web store in the future? *laughs*
Haha some folks swear by warm water, I’ve never noticed a difference personally. And unfortunately I don’t think I’ll get the rights to the Snow White bowl anytime soon 😅
@@SpruesNBrews awww, maybe a little 3D printed model bowl, big enough for decals! *snickers* My biggest problem with water bowls is keeping my cats out of them while Im applying decals-
apparently the five water fountains in my house aren't enough!! :)
What did you use for the tree branches?
Amazing even tho o can put decals i will definitely send this to my friend so he can learn better!!!
Ah great - I'm glad to hear it, thanks!
Quick question, I’ve noticed in a few of your videos you air brush your varnishes onto your models. What product do you use and do you thin to a certain ratio? The AP product I was hoping to use seems to be pretty thick. Any recommendations?
Often I forget which of these microscale products to apply first, helpfully they are labeled in the order that you use them. Mi-1 (microset) then Mi-2 (microsol), remembering this doing decals is a simple 1-2 step process.
Also you want to use warm water for decals
Is there any where to find decals online by them selfs say u are doing a minor country or small one
For sure! Ultracast.ca has a great assortment of aftermarket decals, and so does eagle-editions.com. Ebay is also a good source!
@@SpruesNBrews thanks man
What do we do if we only have MicroSet Red bottle? Will it work without the blue bottle being applied first?
it will, no harm done, the mico SET just set sets up the decal and helps with placement. The Sol softens the decal helps with contours, helps the decal settle into hard to reach areas like panel lines, an around curves.
Way back in the day before these two products, us old school modelers just had to use plain old tap water and a little piece of tissue paper! lol :)
@@eclipsehorse8693 Thank you for the advice. I was a little worried about not using the blue bottle. Cheers!
@@leslietarkin5705 anytime! we're all in this hobby together! :) All the blue bottle does is set up the surface for the decal and makes it a little easier to adhere and settle down- some decals are notioriously thick, or printed in such a way they need.. coaxing!
Question...what if you want a flat finish? Will flat clear work? I don't want a glossy look many times.
The gloss is a good base for the decals. Once you are satisfied, you will put the flat finish on top.
Exactly! You beat me to it 👍thanks!
@@georgeclover3131 awesome thank you 😊
@@SpruesNBrews thank you guys I appreciate the answer 😊
Personally, Tamiya mark fit strong works better.
Just finished watching applying decals for begginers, i dont think its a good idea to use a hobby knife to position a decal in place, some decal films are thinner than others and could get damaged and especially with a new modeler they may be more heavy handed using that method i think a brsh or moist Q tip would be better.
One thing instead of micro solo / micro set you can use PVA wood glue if the product is out of you price range just water down the glue and add it to the model then apply decal
Is it pronounced decal or decal?
hahahah here in the states, we call it a de-cal, I've heard it pronounced 'deck-le' overseas :)
@@eclipsehorse8693
Yes you know the English can't speak proper American LOL
@@garypic4083 hehehe good on y'all! love hearing your accent and pronunciations! :) cheers!!
Gonna look a million bucks?,cool,I only paid $3 for my second hand model that someone couldn't finish.I noticed you said him or her,I haven't found any female modellers on CZcams,are there any?
2 coats of gloss varnish? Do you use matt varnish to ungloss the model after weathering, or before?