As a veteran of countless bike/car fixing tech videos I cannot tell you how much I appreciate the one shot no jump cut showing putting the tyre on - genuinely grateful for that!
to be honest, I am moving in the opposite direction, I am returning to tubes again. It is just to much hassle using sealant switching from one set of tires to another, depending on the season, surface etc. My plan for this summer is to go bike touring towards and in and around Denmark, imagine getting a puncture and standing by the side of the road covered in sealant, no thank you, I am going to try my luck again with tubes. All the best, Gerlach Sven.
I think you've convinced me to stick with inner tubes! I've never had this much trouble fitting a tyre, and I haven't had a puncture in the last 10k miles, so I i cant see that it's really worth the effort.
Thanks Dave for the real deal on installing. Although it would have been more useful if you included the process of adding the sealant. That is equally mysterious to those of us who have not yet converted. Cheers
The sealant... Before you put the tire fully on (with one side on and the other side 80% on), you have the side not fully on on the ground (that's also where the valve is). You pour the sealant in between the tire and the rim, and turn the wheel so where you put the sealant in (at the valve) will be now on top, and the sealant will flow to the part of the wheel / tire that's on the ground and that's fully on the rim. You now make sure the tire is fully on, and you pump up the tire, and turn the wheel slowly so the sealant is spread along the tyre.
As mentioned, if you are really stuck a Tyre Glider can be a life saver, even using Jim's (correct) technique. Tyre levers are only used for other things now in our workshop! I'd also absolutely agree 100% on a dry run first, definitely the way to go 😀 It has gotten better but it's still a case of YMMV depending on the exact rim and tyre combo. I'd also echo another viewer, using a bit of sealant on the bead can get you over the hill of the initial inflation and bead sealant. Another great vid and real kudos for doing it real time, warts and all. Keep it up!
I got a Rehook Tyre Glider and can tell you it absolutely works!!!!!!! I still use tire levers to take a tire off, but to instal a tire it is fantastic.
I'm growing in confidence with this process and are glad to see that the struggle is real. Wrist does create a significant issue is in fact the removal of the tyre. Breaking the bead seat is near impossible and I'd love to see how others achieve it. There are plenty of installation videos but I'd love to see you run through the removal process if you have an opportunity.
I spray soapy water on both sides of the bead to help with initial installation. The tire will stretch a bit over time making subsequent installs easier. You can also use a CO2 cartridge instead of a pump to seat the tire.
Great video as always David. Maybe someone else has already mentioned this but it's important to check if the tyre is directional before you fit it. Inevitably, you will put it on the wrong way round if you don't check first!
Great video David. I am no longer afraid to get started with tubeless. A few things I have found during my prep for tubeless is also that sealant has an expire-date. Some brands last so short (a couple of month) that I cannot ware out the tire 🙂
I had all these issues trying to install some new Swalbe pro one’s. I found having a charge pump or Airshot to be absolutely ESSENTIAL. Once I warmed up the tyres near a radiator, fitted them to the rims then added a third of the usual amount of sealant. Make sure the sealant runs all the way round the bead and leave the wheel for an hour or so, rotating it every so often. Remove the valve core. I found I needed an air charge of 125psi to get the tyre to seat and pop. Once seated you can release the air and add the remaining sealant then just inflate with a standard track pump.
I swear you and I have a telepathic connection Dave, as I was fitting my own set of new tubeless tyres yesterday! I got some sore thumbs but skin wipes certainly help lubricate both the tyre and rim surface for a confortable fit!
The knit work gloves with the rubberized palms are a big help in getting the second side of the tire on. If needed, the yellow Pedro's tire levers are good at not nicking the tape since they are made from a softer material.
As mentioned earlier, the Silca sealant has to be added before seating the tyre as it will totally block the valve if you try using that method (the sealant is that good!!). Removing valve core also helps with seating tyre with normal track pump
Hate Silca's sealant. What a faff to top up and dried out all too quickly. I now use milKit with similar fibre particles, but they are held in suspension within the sealant rather than relying on a foaming effect. The latex is synthetic which means it doesn't dry out and I only have to add air every 2 weeks or so because the area around the bead stays lubricated and air tight.
@Fabian Molyneux I"ve found all of the natural latex products to be fairly useless in terms of longevity and when you think you still have some sealant left when you need it, all the latex has dried onto the inside of the tyre and all you are left with is a watery liquid. Silca had a worse issue in that the fibres clog into a big ball, so I have no idea how their refresh solution works. For road tyres, I view sealant as just a protection against small thorns or tears/holes that would puncture an inner tube straight away ... and of course, no pinch-flats and lower pressures. Unless a bigger hole is circular (then use a Dynaplug), don't expect much sealing if you want to run back to normal pressures. In that instance, I carry a small bottle of isopropyl alcohol, tube of vulcanising glue, patches, cloth and Tyre Glider. Pop a little bit of tyre off the rim, clean around the hole inside with alcohol and prep with glue and apply a patch. The Tyre Glider and non-drying milKit makes a permanent repair so easy and quick. And of course, the tyre reseals onto the rim thanks to the smear of milKit on the tyre bead that hasn't dried. One word of caution, don't buy the milKit valves. They do clog and it's a pain to refill with air or take tyre pressures. The idea is good, but in reality, flawed.
@@phil_d Thanks for the tips. It's greatly appreciated, as running tubless is still a learning experience. I'll follow up and get isopropyl alcohol and patches. I'll switch over to Milkit too. It seems to be highly regarded. Out of interest, what brand of tyres & rims do you run? Again, thanks for your help
Before doing tubeless conversion, watch a few videos, that will give you almost all the info you'll need. Purchase sealant (for 2-3 conversions at least) and injector! (the one you can bolt into the valve). Pro tip - if your tyre is leaking, do this: a) if leaking at the valve - unscrew the nut and remove oring, put the wheel so that valve is at the bottom and wait some time for the gap to seal, then screw it back up b) if leaking at the bead - fill it up to like 5bar, place the wheel on the floor on one side, then another, to make sure it has the chance to seal all across the bead circumference. It might still leak slowly (you'll want to check pressure before every ride), but that's normal for tubeless. As long as it doesn't go flat overnight or lose a couple of bars in a week you're good to go.
only done this once so no idea if my experience is typical but it was way easier than in this video. After all the worries about difficulty installing the tires on the rim, and air leaking through sidewalls.... the conti GP5000 TR went on the Zipp 303 firecrest really easily, and sealed and inflated using a normal track pump. Took out the valve stem to add Stans, reinflated and put them on their side for a while to seal the sidewalls .....job done. I've not had any issues running hookless but we all have to make our own choice on this. i don't understand the anti hookless rants i see online; why so passionate against something no one is making you use.
I always spin the wheel after installing A new tire to see if it is seated properly by looking for "hops". Better than examining the Line on the tire .
THANK YOU - worth the subscribe for the most honest tyre installation I’ve seen. Totally mirrors my real world experience although I’m a tyre lever believer 😊 Two quick things - once you have sealant in how do you know when to top up? And I’m not sure I heard Michelin - I’m running their power road TLR with an inner tube and thinking of making the move to tubeless
Should be directions on the bottle telling you how long it lasts. But if you're responsible there's the dip stick method Brad mentioned. Or, if you're like me, you just don't ever bother to pay attention and top it up around 8-12 months later when you notice your tires now longer hold air longer than a couple days
Dave, at last a great comparison on fitting tubeless on hookless & hooked rims, warts and all too. If able, can you also advise on the internal width of these rims, as I get the impression the wider the internal width makes fitting easier. I was surprised to see the fitting on the hooked rim looked easier than the hookless. As you know tubeless tyres are expensive, I presently use Schwalbe, as in my experience, they are the easiest to fit. Contis, while a favorite of mine are a tubleless nightmare to fit. Any advice on what tubeless tyres are best for which rims and of course last best would be greatly appreciated. Again, a really worthwhile vid
I'm on the enve foundation wheels and being using the conti gp tyres. I've never used a special pump . I find what works for myself is the tyres in the centre well and it goes up first time using a normal track pump. The only thing is learning what spares to carry when first using
I’ve posted something like this elsewhere, anyway I refreshed the sealant on my bike last month, Mavic Ksyrium SL Disk CL wheels with Schwalbe One TLE Tyres. Everything went well surprisingly, I used the valve method to install the sealant and used a booster to fill the tyres with air although I didn’t need it. One think I noticed was that the front tyre didn’t ‘pop’ on the rim, the rear did! This concerned me so much that I re-fit the tyre to be sure, checking on-line this is normal sometimes, the plimsole line around the tyre is consistent, I don’t loose pressure and its been fine ever since. Another thing I had for a week or so was I had to remove the valve cores to clean them as they kept gumming up, there fine now, I used Stan’s standard sealant and Muc Off vales, this wasn’t a problem with the Mavic vales. Good content btw.
I just started using tubeless tires (they are hookless). Today, I was on a short morning ride and hit a good-sized pothole in the road. No issue, whatsoever. Wheels stayed true, no leaks, nothing. I was really leery about going without tubes, especially hookless, but no worries now. Also, I am 260 pounds.
I will lay new tires in the sun or run them in the dryer for about 5 mins if they are tight, they typically loosens them up enough to slide the stubborn tire over the rim
I think tubeless set up for low pressure gravel and MTB tyres and stick with tubes for high pressure road tyres as the sealant often won't seal with the higher presses, it just squirts out of the hole. No-one ever mentions that with sealant you need to rotate the wheels regularly otherwise is sets at the lowest point which is a drag if you have multiple wheel sets or bikes. Nor do we hear of the cost and hassle of having to top up the sealant regularly and cleaning or replacing clogged valve cores. Overall I think tubes are simpler even though you may have the occasional day of replacing a tube in the cold and wet.
Great film David. I learned a while ago from your Jim the Bike Guy videos how to change tubes/tyres without levers even on carbon rims! This is next level, and has just been the last bit of info I’ve needed to switch over to tubeless. I’ve been riding two-way-fit rims for a while now with tubes… but now I can overcome that final bit of inertia to change over to tubeless. Thanks a lot. Love the channel!
I installed the Vittoria Corso Pro Control. They were seriously tight as well. A bit of soapy water did the trick for me to make the entire tyre pop to the hooked rim perfectly.
I had the exact same experience with the Vittoria Corsa Pro tires. On the first mount they’re just stubborn to put inside the rim. But on a second time, after a flat, the tire just popped in, way easier.
Thanks so much for showing the whole install. I had a particular tire brand/model that was so hard to get on. I eventually got a EZ Clincher tool that really helped. Seeing the struggle helped me realize I was not crazy!
A few days ago I fitted a GP 5000 S TR on a Mavic Ksyrium SL's second wall in about 3 minutes, by hand (no lube or levers). I then inflated the tyre immediately and easily with a normal pump and no sealant. It still holds pressure. Your welcome.
I find a couple of toe clip straps useful for holding beads into central channel gives a little more slack for last section, also put a new tyre somewhere warm for a couple of hours beforehand.
The “space creation and valve last” tip from you and Jim has made stubborn tyre changes a lot less frustrating. A flash charger has only been needed once when I’ve set up tubeless, the rest seated with a foot pump, however now I would always go to the charger regardless, no need to worry just blast them on first time 👌🏼
Just wondering how do you reseat the tyre if you puncture out on the road and lose too much air (of you need to insert an inner tube because sealant hasn't plugged the hole)?
Nice video . Only gripe is you say prefer putting sealant through the valve, then show a bottle of Silca ... you can't put the initial sealant through the valve ...only the top up . Otherwise good vid
I don't understand people saying "now I'm convinced that tubeless tyres are easy to install" after watching the video. We see a strong guy in perfect condition struggling to put the tyre on the wheel.
Tubeless Conti GP5000 S TR fit easily on the Hunt Aerodynamicist carbon disc wheels. The problem is getting old tuneless tyres off. The beads are very difficult to break. Can’t get a tyre lever into the bead and have to rely on thumb strength to push it off. Use the frame clamp on your Parktool bike stand to pinch the tyre close to the bead and twist it to break the bead. Eureka, it works 😊
I might add something to tubeless tire installation. If you have bontrager rims, trek is likely to sell you TLR strips - do not use these, go for tubeless tapes instead. Tlr strips take a lot of space from the inner well of the wheel’s rim. As such, it makes it very difficult to seat the tire into the rims no thanks to the tight tolerances. If you carbon rims in particular, be very conscious of this as you definitely don’t want to be using tire levers and applying huge amounts of pressure to pop the bead into the well. Carbon rims could crack (learnt it the hard way) All the best!
@@fabianmolyneux2308 the problem with strips is that it takes too much space in the well of the rim. While it may serves its purpose of keeping the void air right after the tire seats against the rim, it won’t have space that you would otherwise have in the well for slack until you scooch over the last bit over the rim - making it incredible tight to pop the last bit of tyre over the rim. I’ve always had this problem with tlr strips - which is why I just don’t bother anymore! Any good tubeless tape will do - check what your internal width of your rim is. I would recommend +1-2mm of your internal rim width. I’m using Stans. All the best
I've done lots of tubeless setups. My tips: 1. When tightening the valve nut, press down on the valve base inside the rim with a thumb to get it to properly seat. 2. use proper tubeless tape that's precisely the right width. I know it's absurdly priced, but it just works better. 3. a bit of soapy water on the bead makes everything easy. 4. I wear gloves when mounting the tires. 5. tight tires will mount with just a track pump. Otherwise, an inexpensive 6 gallon compressor and a presta inflator will make your life much easier. Compressors go on sale all the time at hardware stores, buy one on sale and it's cheaper (and better) than one of these chamber pumps. 6. Stan's sealant works well and is much easier to deal with than the (likely better) Silca stuff. I use small bottles to squirt it in through the valves after mounting the tires as shown here. 7. I have never flatted a tubeless tire in a way that required a tube. I have had to plug a tire. Stans Darts are crap, Dynaplugs are great. I use the "Racer" plug and keep it in my jersey pocket. Don't put it in a bag, you don't want to be fumbling around for it while air is leaking out of the tire.
Great tips. Have you got any for breaking the rim bead when you’re in the field and have to fit a tube when a dynaplug doesn’t work? My thumb pressure is not enough to push the tyre off the bead
@Acousticmarine You may have misunderstood, I’m trying to take a very tight tyre off a hooked tubeless rim. I can’t get a lever under the bead to lever it off (ie. break the bead) so I have to push it off with thumbs. I use a bike clamp to pinch the tyre then twist to break the bead at home. Another helpful reader suggested I’m using a rim tape that’s too wide for the rim or too thick thus preventing the tyre bead moving over the rim bead
Great video - which does demonstrate how difficult / frustrating it can sometimes be to put a tyre on - in my experience, one tyre goes on relatively easily and the other less so... 🤔
I tried many years ago and was dismayed at the lack of compliance with both rim and tyre manufacturers. Times have moved on with rims being made with tolerances to match properly sized tyres, even if they are a little tight it is better that way and hookless rims would be my choice.
Woooow! I minded you using ENVE Foundation 45 instead of SES wheels on Melee. Now you got SES4.5! Wish to hear some review how you feel these wheels that SES4.5 internal rim width is so much wider than 45.
however you didn't show pouring Silca Sealant into a road wheel. It's fine on Gravel and MTB. setups but road tires don't leave much room for you to pour the Elmer's Glue in
I by default, stretch the tires with my feet. Put tire under feet, and pull with your hands. I do it around the whole tire. I'm usually good. I've had some fighters before but luckily it was warm out, left the tires in the sun and they loosened up.
Nice video David, the only problem is it looks like you are using the Ultimate sealant not the Replenisher, only the replenisher can go through the valve the Ultimate sealant will clog it and your syringe.
Rough Road condition plays a part on getting your tires flat. I am using tube and I lived in a place with a rough road condition and i got flat tires very often. When i moved in a place with a smooth surface road i barely got a flat tire. I got a flat tire once in 2 years but it was not due to road condition.
They're tight the first time on. Patience and a little lube. Let them stretch a little partially installed, come back in a few minutes and they'll be a little easier.
Guys- for some reason in the bicycle world people seem to be unaware of the easiest way to get a tire mounted. Take a few drops of dish soap, add a couple of teaspoons of water, and run it around the bead. Voila! The tire will glide right on. This is how car and motorcycle tires are mounted, which have stiff beads too.
I've had great results with Continental GP5000S TR's and those have gone on super easy without even breaking a sweat! Would never go back to tubes now - tubeless is super easy nowadays and works fantastically well.
@@alistairmartin13 mine were clincher onto a set of Bontrager RSL 51's. No issues whatsoever however I'll defer to your greater knowledge of compag stuff.
@@mugenmrx5 honestly never had to give up before but these were a first, had Pirelli’s, Vittorias, Conti’s and goodyears on all loads of different Rims (Reynolds, Hunt, Miche, Giant etc) and never really had an issue until a month ago trying to get these Conti’s on. After two hours gave up, drove to Sigma in Oakham and bought a pair of Vittoria Controls which were fitted within 10 minutes of getting home.
The way these new wheels was frustrating! My other set was smooth. These new ones have taken 10 days. The rear wheel just took air today and has remained. Unfortunately, it did that on Saturday but went flat after a 25 mile ride once I got home. Hopefully, this time is good. 🤦🏾♂️🤣
It looks like the brand of tire and rim combination influence also in how easy the installation. These new Vittorias seems to have very close tolerances. In my experience, installing the Goodyear, New TLR Conty 5000 and Schwalbe tires with Zipp or Enve foundations are easier to install
If you ever encounter tires that simply wont fit: use soap all around the tire and rim that will allow the tire to easier to slide/slip into the inner rim.
Those tires are size 28c. When I installed size 26c tires on Roval wheels, it was impossible to get the first side on the wheel without a tire lever. Even then the front wheel required a lot of force.
With my Continental GP5000 STRs I am able to inflate them, from flat, with just a small hand pump from Topeak. I don't know if it is the tyres or the wheels that make it easy, but I do not need a charged Track pump to get the bead seated. The wheels are Ribble Carbon Level.
You won't be able to put that silcia ultimate sealent (on the bench) in that tire, will ya? Silica says not to put that in though the valve stem as its intended to plug holes the side of the valve stem. I'll probably roll with Stan's and a Dynaplug
Top video. Will you also make one where you show how you put the sealant in with the syringe? What type of valve core remover you use? How much sealant? And how can you check if the sealant inside is still good and there’s enough of it in there? Follow up videos would be much appreciated by someone interested in learning to do it himself in stead of having to go to the bike shop every time.
I'm still unsure about road tubeless despite running multiple mountain bikes tubeless for many years. I've had two occasions where road tubeless have failed me. One slow loss of air that ruined a long ride and one bigger failure that required fitting an inner tube which is pretty messy. I also have a Schwalbe One that is impossible to seat properly on a Mavic rim.
Great video David. Having used tubeless on and off for many years now.. I’ve settled on tubeless for gravel and tubes for my road bikes. The only exception is on my winter bike, I run 3O3s with 30mm tyres and they work very well tubeless. Maybe 30mm plus is the sweet spot for tubeless?
Great video David, What is the inner rim width of the Hunt wheels , and the actual width of the Vittoria Corsa Pro after some rides? Do you experience a lot of leak down in air pressure with the Vittorias ?
Conti should give a cashback promise in that if you can't mount their tubeless then return them to your retailer for a cash refund. I love Conti. They are my go-to tyre, but when it comes to tubeless I steer clear of them
Great channel, keep up the good work. I'd be really interested in you doing another video on removing the tyre from the Hunt wheels after a few weeks install period. I have a set and I find it almost impossible to break the seal and have to stand on the bead or use mole grip pliers. The process takes me 30 to 45 minutes to remove one tyre..
Re the tyre test, with good quality road tyres getting v v expensive, it would be good if you could test the Veloflex Corsa TLRs to see how they measure up to the GP5000, Vittoria, Pireliii etc 🙏
I gave tubeless a try and I really wanted it to work, but it just didn’t do it for me. It wouldn’t seal when it had to and I ended up having more flats than with tubes due to the tires losing air and eventually breaking the bead seal. And let’s not forget the sealant splashing all over the frame, wheels and shoes…
Installation is not so bad, the cost is going up and up and up for tubeless road tires. As much or more than motorcycle tires, which have to pass DOT testing and are much more pricey to make. I might go back to tubes.
The first bead is much easier to bring on from the inside than the outside... if you place the rim loose inside the tire before bringing the first ide it would be easier. Is Tubeless installation any harder than a inner tube when you're not putting sealant in and using a reservoir pump? I would argue it's easier in that case because you don't risk pinching the inner tube. These wheel are unusable without sealant. the annoying part of tubeless is all about the sealant! Putting the sealant in without making a mess, or pivoting tires from front to back wheel and cleaning the dry sealand. Even worst, when you have a puncture that spray all over you when riding. I personally ride tubeless, but it requires more work and can be really dirty if you don't have the proper technique.
We had a rider go down recently after his front tire "burped" off the rim. Some say the hook less wheel set was to blame and others claimed that his low tire pressure was the culprit. Personally I rarely flat running a quality tire and still running the original tubes from 2019. Some sealant manufacturers recommend changing the sealant every other month or sooner and that was the turn off for me.
my orbea orca came with fulcrum 400 with vitoria tires and they're a complete pain to change tires. I changed the tires to specialized turbo cotton and they're much easier to change. It would be interesting to see how much harder easier it would be with different brand of tire :)
Anyone else notice the first tire was not fully seated in one section after inflation? Maybe should have pointed that out because it is very important.
Why are people so afraid of tyre levers? Tires are consumable items and i can assure you that even dozen of installations using levers won't destroy bead enough.
Could you possibly make a video about valves and pumping? Bought a pump and no matter what I do it's either completely blocked or the air comes out of the sides. Now one of the "spikes" are bent (does it matter?). Can pumo it with my "pocket rock" though, but I still have no clue why I can't use the big pump (SKS Airkompressor 12.0)
Ok so I’ve got tyres that are so tight that I cannot even get the first side on. We tried everything from levers to warming the tyres to trying to stretch them. Nothing works.
Not sure if that looked easy but I'm glad I'm not the only one who had to force the new Vittoria's over the rim. Next time I might try applying a bit baby powder to the tyre's bead first. There's a remaining doubt what trouble it may be when I have to fix a flat on them some day in the field in wet&cold conditions... Mounting a Vittoria clincher tyre over an old Zipp 404 rim (not TL comp.) is WAY easier & faster.
No trickier than clincher tyres with inner tubes in my experience, which are just as hit and miss when it comes to compatibility (slack vs tight on the rim) as old tubeless setups
Some tyre/rim combinations are more difficult thsn others but this is not unique to tubeless. Plenty of tube only clinchers are tight to install too and they have the added issue of having to avoid pinching the tube while you're muscling the tyre on.
Has anyone else had terrible luck with Silca sealant? It dries up in the tire very quickly and does a poor job creating an air tight seal in my experience. It also causes certain tubeless rim tape to delaminate (red enve tape included).
As a veteran of countless bike/car fixing tech videos I cannot tell you how much I appreciate the one shot no jump cut showing putting the tyre on - genuinely grateful for that!
Thanks Munro glad you appreciate it :)
Great David, I'm proud that you didn't cuss a single time during the video.
Yes most repair videos employ magic at the crucial point and leave me pondering the sleight of hand.
Seriously. Not editing this makes it seem much more user-friendly. Great video.
to be honest, I am moving in the opposite direction, I am returning to tubes again. It is just to much hassle using sealant switching from one set of tires to another, depending on the season, surface etc. My plan for this summer is to go bike touring towards and in and around Denmark, imagine getting a puncture and standing by the side of the road covered in sealant, no thank you, I am going to try my luck again with tubes. All the best, Gerlach Sven.
I think you've convinced me to stick with inner tubes! I've never had this much trouble fitting a tyre, and I haven't had a puncture in the last 10k miles, so I i cant see that it's really worth the effort.
Lucky you.
As a shop mechanic for over 10 years you are lucky then, I've run across many tubed rim/tire combos that appeared way harder than that to mount.
Thanks Dave for the real deal on installing. Although it would have been more useful if you included the process of adding the sealant. That is equally mysterious to those of us who have not yet converted. Cheers
The sealant...
Before you put the tire fully on (with one side on and the other side 80% on), you have the side not fully on on the ground (that's also where the valve is). You pour the sealant in between the tire and the rim, and turn the wheel so where you put the sealant in (at the valve) will be now on top, and the sealant will flow to the part of the wheel / tire that's on the ground and that's fully on the rim. You now make sure the tire is fully on, and you pump up the tire, and turn the wheel slowly so the sealant is spread along the tyre.
As mentioned, if you are really stuck a Tyre Glider can be a life saver, even using Jim's (correct) technique. Tyre levers are only used for other things now in our workshop!
I'd also absolutely agree 100% on a dry run first, definitely the way to go 😀
It has gotten better but it's still a case of YMMV depending on the exact rim and tyre combo.
I'd also echo another viewer, using a bit of sealant on the bead can get you over the hill of the initial inflation and bead sealant.
Another great vid and real kudos for doing it real time, warts and all. Keep it up!
I use TPU tubes now...lighter than a tubeless setup, no faff and super fast too.
I've always put the sealant in through the valve stem. Seems to work OK, and it's clean.
Can’t do that with Silca ultimate sealant as it is so good it seals the valve hole 😂
@@JayLato hahaha
I got a Rehook Tyre Glider and can tell you it absolutely works!!!!!!! I still use tire levers to take a tire off, but to instal a tire it is fantastic.
I'm growing in confidence with this process and are glad to see that the struggle is real. Wrist does create a significant issue is in fact the removal of the tyre. Breaking the bead seat is near impossible and I'd love to see how others achieve it. There are plenty of installation videos but I'd love to see you run through the removal process if you have an opportunity.
Luckily they do stretch, so removal with a lever is straightforward, provided the tire is in the center of the channel
I'll add a me-too. I have to use a vice to get a Hutchinson UST tyre off a Mavic UST wheel. Can't do that at the side of the road!
I spray soapy water on both sides of the bead to help with initial installation. The tire will stretch a bit over time making subsequent installs easier. You can also use a CO2 cartridge instead of a pump to seat the tire.
Great video as always David. Maybe someone else has already mentioned this but it's important to check if the tyre is directional before you fit it. Inevitably, you will put it on the wrong way round if you don't check first!
Great video David. I am no longer afraid to get started with tubeless.
A few things I have found during my prep for tubeless is also that sealant has an expire-date. Some brands last so short (a couple of month) that I cannot ware out the tire 🙂
Quite liked the real time video. Nicely done.
Thanks Thomas - watched a few other videos that seem to edit out all the important bits which doesn't help if you're trying to learn how to do it
I had all these issues trying to install some new Swalbe pro one’s. I found having a charge pump or Airshot to be absolutely ESSENTIAL. Once I warmed up the tyres near a radiator, fitted them to the rims then added a third of the usual amount of sealant. Make sure the sealant runs all the way round the bead and leave the wheel for an hour or so, rotating it every so often. Remove the valve core. I found I needed an air charge of 125psi to get the tyre to seat and pop. Once seated you can release the air and add the remaining sealant then just inflate with a standard track pump.
I swear you and I have a telepathic connection Dave, as I was fitting my own set of new tubeless tyres yesterday! I got some sore thumbs but skin wipes certainly help lubricate both the tyre and rim surface for a confortable fit!
The knit work gloves with the rubberized palms are a big help in getting the second side of the tire on. If needed, the yellow Pedro's tire levers are good at not nicking the tape since they are made from a softer material.
As mentioned earlier, the Silca sealant has to be added before seating the tyre as it will totally block the valve if you try using that method (the sealant is that good!!).
Removing valve core also helps with seating tyre with normal track pump
Hate Silca's sealant. What a faff to top up and dried out all too quickly.
I now use milKit with similar fibre particles, but they are held in suspension within the sealant rather than relying on a foaming effect. The latex is synthetic which means it doesn't dry out and I only have to add air every 2 weeks or so because the area around the bead stays lubricated and air tight.
@@phil_d Thanks for the tip. I have heard the same about Silca. I'll check out Milkit
That's not a good sealant then.
@Fabian Molyneux I"ve found all of the natural latex products to be fairly useless in terms of longevity and when you think you still have some sealant left when you need it, all the latex has dried onto the inside of the tyre and all you are left with is a watery liquid. Silca had a worse issue in that the fibres clog into a big ball, so I have no idea how their refresh solution works.
For road tyres, I view sealant as just a protection against small thorns or tears/holes that would puncture an inner tube straight away ... and of course, no pinch-flats and lower pressures. Unless a bigger hole is circular (then use a Dynaplug), don't expect much sealing if you want to run back to normal pressures. In that instance, I carry a small bottle of isopropyl alcohol, tube of vulcanising glue, patches, cloth and Tyre Glider. Pop a little bit of tyre off the rim, clean around the hole inside with alcohol and prep with glue and apply a patch. The Tyre Glider and non-drying milKit makes a permanent repair so easy and quick. And of course, the tyre reseals onto the rim thanks to the smear of milKit on the tyre bead that hasn't dried.
One word of caution, don't buy the milKit valves. They do clog and it's a pain to refill with air or take tyre pressures. The idea is good, but in reality, flawed.
@@phil_d Thanks for the tips. It's greatly appreciated, as running tubless is still a learning experience. I'll follow up and get isopropyl alcohol and patches. I'll switch over to Milkit too. It seems to be highly regarded.
Out of interest, what brand of tyres & rims do you run?
Again, thanks for your help
Before doing tubeless conversion, watch a few videos, that will give you almost all the info you'll need. Purchase sealant (for 2-3 conversions at least) and injector! (the one you can bolt into the valve).
Pro tip - if your tyre is leaking, do this:
a) if leaking at the valve - unscrew the nut and remove oring, put the wheel so that valve is at the bottom and wait some time for the gap to seal, then screw it back up
b) if leaking at the bead - fill it up to like 5bar, place the wheel on the floor on one side, then another, to make sure it has the chance to seal all across the bead circumference.
It might still leak slowly (you'll want to check pressure before every ride), but that's normal for tubeless. As long as it doesn't go flat overnight or lose a couple of bars in a week you're good to go.
only done this once so no idea if my experience is typical but it was way easier than in this video. After all the worries about difficulty installing the tires on the rim, and air leaking through sidewalls.... the conti GP5000 TR went on the Zipp 303 firecrest really easily, and sealed and inflated using a normal track pump. Took out the valve stem to add Stans, reinflated and put them on their side for a while to seal the sidewalls .....job done.
I've not had any issues running hookless but we all have to make our own choice on this. i don't understand the anti hookless rants i see online; why so passionate against something no one is making you use.
I always spin the wheel after installing A new tire to see if it is seated properly by looking for "hops". Better than examining the Line on the tire .
THANK YOU - worth the subscribe for the most honest tyre installation I’ve seen. Totally mirrors my real world experience although I’m a tyre lever believer 😊 Two quick things - once you have sealant in how do you know when to top up? And I’m not sure I heard Michelin - I’m running their power road TLR with an inner tube and thinking of making the move to tubeless
Yep, just had this experience last week and got a blister on my thumb trying to remove the old tire…
You can check whether you have enough sealant by using a zip tie as a dip stick though the valve stem
Should be directions on the bottle telling you how long it lasts. But if you're responsible there's the dip stick method Brad mentioned. Or, if you're like me, you just don't ever bother to pay attention and top it up around 8-12 months later when you notice your tires now longer hold air longer than a couple days
@@bradallen8643 love that tip 👍
i non-scientifically shake my wheels and listen to whether there is sealant sloshing around or not.
Dave, at last a great comparison on fitting tubeless on hookless & hooked rims, warts and all too. If able, can you also advise on the internal width of these rims, as I get the impression the wider the internal width makes fitting easier.
I was surprised to see the fitting on the hooked rim looked easier than the hookless.
As you know tubeless tyres are expensive, I presently use Schwalbe, as in my experience, they are the easiest to fit. Contis, while a favorite of mine are a tubleless nightmare to fit. Any advice on what tubeless tyres are best for which rims and of course last best would be greatly appreciated.
Again, a really worthwhile vid
I'm on the enve foundation wheels and being using the conti gp tyres. I've never used a special pump . I find what works for myself is the tyres in the centre well and it goes up first time using a normal track pump. The only thing is learning what spares to carry when first using
I’ve posted something like this elsewhere, anyway I refreshed the sealant on my bike last month, Mavic Ksyrium SL Disk CL wheels with Schwalbe One TLE Tyres. Everything went well surprisingly, I used the valve method to install the sealant and used a booster to fill the tyres with air although I didn’t need it. One think I noticed was that the front tyre didn’t ‘pop’ on the rim, the rear did! This concerned me so much that I re-fit the tyre to be sure, checking on-line this is normal sometimes, the plimsole line around the tyre is consistent, I don’t loose pressure and its been fine ever since. Another thing I had for a week or so was I had to remove the valve cores to clean them as they kept gumming up, there fine now, I used Stan’s standard sealant and Muc Off vales, this wasn’t a problem with the Mavic vales. Good content btw.
I've had problems with Muc Off vales getting gummed up unless I use their own sealant. Which is a problem because Orange seal is superior
I just started using tubeless tires (they are hookless). Today, I was on a short morning ride and hit a good-sized pothole in the road. No issue, whatsoever. Wheels stayed true, no leaks, nothing. I was really leery about going without tubes, especially hookless, but no worries now. Also, I am 260 pounds.
I'm not in the nay sayer camp but I guess the fear is that option will be taken away as has pretty much happened with disc over rim brakes.
I will lay new tires in the sun or run them in the dryer for about 5 mins if they are tight, they typically loosens them up enough to slide the stubborn tire over the rim
I think tubeless set up for low pressure gravel and MTB tyres and stick with tubes for high pressure road tyres as the sealant often won't seal with the higher presses, it just squirts out of the hole. No-one ever mentions that with sealant you need to rotate the wheels regularly otherwise is sets at the lowest point which is a drag if you have multiple wheel sets or bikes. Nor do we hear of the cost and hassle of having to top up the sealant regularly and cleaning or replacing clogged valve cores. Overall I think tubes are simpler even though you may have the occasional day of replacing a tube in the cold and wet.
Great film David. I learned a while ago from your Jim the Bike Guy videos how to change tubes/tyres without levers even on carbon rims! This is next level, and has just been the last bit of info I’ve needed to switch over to tubeless. I’ve been riding two-way-fit rims for a while now with tubes… but now I can overcome that final bit of inertia to change over to tubeless. Thanks a lot. Love the channel!
I’ve realised it’s more expensive and just a hassle and I don’t trust them when they cannot patch a hole and a TPU tube takes up no space
I installed the Vittoria Corso Pro Control. They were seriously tight as well. A bit of soapy water did the trick for me to make the entire tyre pop to the hooked rim perfectly.
I had the exact same experience with the Vittoria Corsa Pro tires. On the first mount they’re just stubborn to put inside the rim. But on a second time, after a flat, the tire just popped in, way easier.
Thanks so much for showing the whole install. I had a particular tire brand/model that was so hard to get on. I eventually got a EZ Clincher tool that really helped. Seeing the struggle helped me realize I was not crazy!
great film David always great videos coming from yourself
A few days ago I fitted a GP 5000 S TR on a Mavic Ksyrium SL's second wall in about 3 minutes, by hand (no lube or levers). I then inflated the tyre immediately and easily with a normal pump and no sealant. It still holds pressure. Your welcome.
I find a couple of toe clip straps useful for holding beads into central channel gives a little more slack for last section, also put a new tyre somewhere warm for a couple of hours beforehand.
The “space creation and valve last” tip from you and Jim has made stubborn tyre changes a lot less frustrating.
A flash charger has only been needed once when I’ve set up tubeless, the rest seated with a foot pump, however now I would always go to the charger regardless, no need to worry just blast them on first time 👌🏼
Which brand do you use for the pump?
Just wondering how do you reseat the tyre if you puncture out on the road and lose too much air (of you need to insert an inner tube because sealant hasn't plugged the hole)?
Nice video . Only gripe is you say prefer putting sealant through the valve, then show a bottle of Silca ... you can't put the initial sealant through the valve ...only the top up . Otherwise good vid
Thanks for doing that Dave, Ive spent hours on a single tire. So frustrating!
I struggled until I bought the same air storage type pump that you have. Works every time now.
Respect for the struggle :) I thought there;s something wrong with me and my tires :)
I don't understand people saying "now I'm convinced that tubeless tyres are easy to install" after watching the video. We see a strong guy in perfect condition struggling to put the tyre on the wheel.
Think I'll stick with inner tubes, thanks!
Tubeless Conti GP5000 S TR fit easily on the Hunt Aerodynamicist carbon disc wheels. The problem is getting old tuneless tyres off. The beads are very difficult to break. Can’t get a tyre lever into the bead and have to rely on thumb strength to push it off. Use the frame clamp on your Parktool bike stand to pinch the tyre close to the bead and twist it to break the bead. Eureka, it works 😊
Great to see a TRUTHFUL Video - thank you !!!
I might add something to tubeless tire installation. If you have bontrager rims, trek is likely to sell you TLR strips - do not use these, go for tubeless tapes instead.
Tlr strips take a lot of space from the inner well of the wheel’s rim. As such, it makes it very difficult to seat the tire into the rims no thanks to the tight tolerances. If you carbon rims in particular, be very conscious of this as you definitely don’t want to be using tire levers and applying huge amounts of pressure to pop the bead into the well. Carbon rims could crack (learnt it the hard way)
All the best!
Thanks for the tip. I struggle getting tubeless on my Bontragers. If you can let me know the brand of tape your using that'd be great
@@fabianmolyneux2308 the problem with strips is that it takes too much space in the well of the rim. While it may serves its purpose of keeping the void air right after the tire seats against the rim, it won’t have space that you would otherwise have in the well for slack until you scooch over the last bit over the rim - making it incredible tight to pop the last bit of tyre over the rim. I’ve always had this problem with tlr strips - which is why I just don’t bother anymore!
Any good tubeless tape will do - check what your internal width of your rim is. I would recommend +1-2mm of your internal rim width. I’m using Stans.
All the best
@@PuneethBedre Thanks I'll give that a go. What tyres are you using?
@@fabianmolyneux2308 I’m using Pirelli p zero race tlr
I've done lots of tubeless setups. My tips: 1. When tightening the valve nut, press down on the valve base inside the rim with a thumb to get it to properly seat. 2. use proper tubeless tape that's precisely the right width. I know it's absurdly priced, but it just works better. 3. a bit of soapy water on the bead makes everything easy. 4. I wear gloves when mounting the tires. 5. tight tires will mount with just a track pump. Otherwise, an inexpensive 6 gallon compressor and a presta inflator will make your life much easier. Compressors go on sale all the time at hardware stores, buy one on sale and it's cheaper (and better) than one of these chamber pumps. 6. Stan's sealant works well and is much easier to deal with than the (likely better) Silca stuff. I use small bottles to squirt it in through the valves after mounting the tires as shown here. 7. I have never flatted a tubeless tire in a way that required a tube. I have had to plug a tire. Stans Darts are crap, Dynaplugs are great. I use the "Racer" plug and keep it in my jersey pocket. Don't put it in a bag, you don't want to be fumbling around for it while air is leaking out of the tire.
Great tips. Have you got any for breaking the rim bead when you’re in the field and have to fit a tube when a dynaplug doesn’t work? My thumb pressure is not enough to push the tyre off the bead
@Acousticmarine You may have misunderstood, I’m trying to take a very tight tyre off a hooked tubeless rim. I can’t get a lever under the bead to lever it off (ie. break the bead) so I have to push it off with thumbs. I use a bike clamp to pinch the tyre then twist to break the bead at home. Another helpful reader suggested I’m using a rim tape that’s too wide for the rim or too thick thus preventing the tyre bead moving over the rim bead
Whats a hardware store? Dont think Ive seen one of those in the UK for 10 years or more.
Great video - which does demonstrate how difficult / frustrating it can sometimes be to put a tyre on - in my experience, one tyre goes on relatively easily and the other less so... 🤔
I tried many years ago and was dismayed at the lack of compliance with both rim and tyre manufacturers. Times have moved on with rims being made with tolerances to match properly sized tyres, even if they are a little tight it is better that way and hookless rims would be my choice.
I have found that wearing full-finger gloves helps a lot when trying to get a stubborn tire on.
Woooow! I minded you using ENVE Foundation 45 instead of SES wheels on Melee.
Now you got SES4.5! Wish to hear some review how you feel these wheels that SES4.5 internal rim width is so much wider than 45.
They go on a lot easier if they are warm. Leave them out in the sun first.
however you didn't show pouring Silca Sealant into a road wheel. It's fine on Gravel and MTB. setups but road tires don't leave much room for you to pour the Elmer's Glue in
Good Job. I love tubeless too. I ride the Vittoria next. Very easy to install.
I by default, stretch the tires with my feet. Put tire under feet, and pull with your hands. I do it around the whole tire. I'm usually good. I've had some fighters before but luckily it was warm out, left the tires in the sun and they loosened up.
Nice video David, the only problem is it looks like you are using the Ultimate sealant not the Replenisher, only the replenisher can go through the valve the Ultimate sealant will clog it and your syringe.
Why use tubeless when clincher with latex tubes is faster, lighter and far more puncture resistant?
Id love to see the addition of sealant through the value you described
Went to tubeless and back to tubes. Using Ridenow TPUs. No issues and lighter than tubeless.
Rough Road condition plays a part on getting your tires flat. I am using tube and I lived in a place with a rough road condition and i got flat tires very often. When i moved in a place with a smooth surface road i barely got a flat tire. I got a flat tire once in 2 years but it was not due to road condition.
Being new to tubless setup, i would of liked to have seen syringe type/method and quantity of sealant you use, good informative video though...!
They're tight the first time on. Patience and a little lube. Let them stretch a little partially installed, come back in a few minutes and they'll be a little easier.
Guys- for some reason in the bicycle world people seem to be unaware of the easiest way to get a tire mounted. Take a few drops of dish soap, add a couple of teaspoons of water, and run it around the bead. Voila! The tire will glide right on.
This is how car and motorcycle tires are mounted, which have stiff beads too.
Removing a Gp5000 tl was a real workout
I don't understand what tubeless would give me, I ride Audax, my pace is fine for that. Mind you, i said the same about Disc breaks and i love them!
I've had great results with Continental GP5000S TR's and those have gone on super easy without even breaking a sweat! Would never go back to tubes now - tubeless is super easy nowadays and works fantastically well.
try and get a set of the clincher version on a set of Campag WTO45’s. I’ll buy you beer if can
@@alistairmartin13 mine were clincher onto a set of Bontrager RSL 51's. No issues whatsoever however I'll defer to your greater knowledge of compag stuff.
@@mugenmrx5 honestly never had to give up before but these were a first, had Pirelli’s, Vittorias, Conti’s and goodyears on all loads of different Rims (Reynolds, Hunt, Miche, Giant etc) and never really had an issue until a month ago trying to get these Conti’s on. After two hours gave up, drove to Sigma in Oakham and bought a pair of Vittoria Controls which were fitted within 10 minutes of getting home.
Sir it’s much easier with a tool called a “Bead Jack” made by Kool Stop, to get those really tight tires on the rims.
The way these new wheels was frustrating! My other set was smooth. These new ones have taken 10 days. The rear wheel just took air today and has remained. Unfortunately, it did that on Saturday but went flat after a 25 mile ride once I got home. Hopefully, this time is good. 🤦🏾♂️🤣
I don’t worry about lining up labels just Put it on air rolling good 😁
It looks like the brand of tire and rim combination influence also in how easy the installation. These new Vittorias seems to have very close tolerances. In my experience, installing the Goodyear, New TLR Conty 5000 and Schwalbe tires with Zipp or Enve foundations are easier to install
Schwalbe Pro Ones are impossible to break the bead on a Hunt Aerodynamicist Carbon disc when you’re trying to fit a tube in the field
If you ever encounter tires that simply wont fit: use soap all around the tire and rim that will allow the tire to easier to slide/slip into the inner rim.
Those tires are size 28c. When I installed size 26c tires on Roval wheels, it was impossible to get the first side on the wheel without a tire lever. Even then the front wheel required a lot of force.
TYTYTY! for not cutting it so ican see it all as a newbie! thank yoU!
With my Continental GP5000 STRs I am able to inflate them, from flat, with just a small hand pump from Topeak. I don't know if it is the tyres or the wheels that make it easy, but I do not need a charged Track pump to get the bead seated. The wheels are Ribble Carbon Level.
You won't be able to put that silcia ultimate sealent (on the bench) in that tire, will ya? Silica says not to put that in though the valve stem as its intended to plug holes the side of the valve stem. I'll probably roll with Stan's and a Dynaplug
Top video. Will you also make one where you show how you put the sealant in with the syringe? What type of valve core remover you use? How much sealant? And how can you check if the sealant inside is still good and there’s enough of it in there? Follow up videos would be much appreciated by someone interested in learning to do it himself in stead of having to go to the bike shop every time.
Let me go make that video, stay tuned...
I'm still unsure about road tubeless despite running multiple mountain bikes tubeless for many years. I've had two occasions where road tubeless have failed me. One slow loss of air that ruined a long ride and one bigger failure that required fitting an inner tube which is pretty messy. I also have a Schwalbe One that is impossible to seat properly on a Mavic rim.
Great video David. Having used tubeless on and off for many years now.. I’ve settled on tubeless for gravel and tubes for my road bikes. The only exception is on my winter bike, I run 3O3s with 30mm tyres and they work very well tubeless. Maybe 30mm plus is the sweet spot for tubeless?
Been running tubeless for a while now and find the process no more difficult than running tubed tyres.
Some tire-rim combinations are a breeze, others are hellish. You probably lucked out on an easy combination.
Great video David,
What is the inner rim width of the Hunt wheels , and the actual width of the Vittoria Corsa Pro after some rides?
Do you experience a lot of leak down in air pressure with the Vittorias ?
I think the Conti GP5000 tubeless is the most difficult tubeless to mount. Should have use this tire. That will be a real test.
Conti should give a cashback promise in that if you can't mount their tubeless then return them to your retailer for a cash refund. I love Conti. They are my go-to tyre, but when it comes to tubeless I steer clear of them
Once you unseat a tubeless tire at least on Vitoria tyres it’s impossible to reseat it. Even with an air compressor I couldn’t
Great channel, keep up the good work. I'd be really interested in you doing another video on removing the tyre from the Hunt wheels after a few weeks install period. I have a set and I find it almost impossible to break the seal and have to stand on the bead or use mole grip pliers. The process takes me 30 to 45 minutes to remove one tyre..
Re the tyre test, with good quality road tyres getting v v expensive, it would be good if you could test the Veloflex Corsa TLRs to see how they measure up to the GP5000, Vittoria, Pireliii etc 🙏
I gave tubeless a try and I really wanted it to work, but it just didn’t do it for me. It wouldn’t seal when it had to and I ended up having more flats than with tubes due to the tires losing air and eventually breaking the bead seal. And let’s not forget the sealant splashing all over the frame, wheels and shoes…
Installation is not so bad, the cost is going up and up and up for tubeless road tires.
As much or more than motorcycle tires, which have to pass DOT testing and are much more pricey to make. I might go back to tubes.
Continental GP5000 TR was a pain in the ass for me.
yes thay are Pirelli and Schwalbe are pretty easy
The first bead is much easier to bring on from the inside than the outside... if you place the rim loose inside the tire before bringing the first ide it would be easier.
Is Tubeless installation any harder than a inner tube when you're not putting sealant in and using a reservoir pump? I would argue it's easier in that case because you don't risk pinching the inner tube.
These wheel are unusable without sealant. the annoying part of tubeless is all about the sealant! Putting the sealant in without making a mess, or pivoting tires from front to back wheel and cleaning the dry sealand. Even worst, when you have a puncture that spray all over you when riding.
I personally ride tubeless, but it requires more work and can be really dirty if you don't have the proper technique.
We had a rider go down recently after his front tire "burped" off the rim. Some say the hook less wheel set was to blame and others claimed that his low tire pressure was the culprit.
Personally I rarely flat running a quality tire and still running the original tubes from 2019.
Some sealant manufacturers recommend changing the sealant every other month or sooner and that was the turn off for me.
my orbea orca came with fulcrum 400 with vitoria tires and they're a complete pain to change tires. I changed the tires to specialized turbo cotton and they're much easier to change. It would be interesting to see how much harder easier it would be with different brand of tire :)
Are you going to do a review of those tyres Dave, like to hear what you think especially compared to the Conti TRs from last year ?
Anyone else notice the first tire was not fully seated in one section after inflation? Maybe should have pointed that out because it is very important.
Why are people so afraid of tyre levers? Tires are consumable items and i can assure you that even dozen of installations using levers won't destroy bead enough.
Tire 1 was not seated all the way around. Look at the sidewall height dip at 7:16 or 7:28.
I think that’s just because the tire was slowly losing air as I was filming - shows that some combinations need the sealant to stay airtight
Could you possibly make a video about valves and pumping? Bought a pump and no matter what I do it's either completely blocked or the air comes out of the sides. Now one of the "spikes" are bent (does it matter?). Can pumo it with my "pocket rock" though, but I still have no clue why I can't use the big pump (SKS Airkompressor 12.0)
Ok so I’ve got tyres that are so tight that I cannot even get the first side on. We tried everything from levers to warming the tyres to trying to stretch them. Nothing works.
veloflex too (esp record tlr)! always a super easy setup!!
Not sure if that looked easy but I'm glad I'm not the only one who had to force the new Vittoria's over the rim. Next time I might try applying a bit baby powder to the tyre's bead first. There's a remaining doubt what trouble it may be when I have to fix a flat on them some day in the field in wet&cold conditions...
Mounting a Vittoria clincher tyre over an old Zipp 404 rim (not TL comp.) is WAY easier & faster.
No trickier than clincher tyres with inner tubes in my experience, which are just as hit and miss when it comes to compatibility (slack vs tight on the rim) as old tubeless setups
Some tyre/rim combinations are more difficult thsn others but this is not unique to tubeless. Plenty of tube only clinchers are tight to install too and they have the added issue of having to avoid pinching the tube while you're muscling the tyre on.
I have had a hard time installing a TR TIRE on a rim. This helps a bit. What kind of pump did you use. I’m in the USA.
Has anyone else had terrible luck with Silca sealant? It dries up in the tire very quickly and does a poor job creating an air tight seal in my experience. It also causes certain tubeless rim tape to delaminate (red enve tape included).