This is a very helpful. I wouldn't have immediately thought of the problems and solutions you've demonstrated here. And you've given me food for thought for making my own stop block. Videos like these are what make CZcams worthwhile. Thank you!
Keith Jeffries I appreciate that. I come from a perspective of consumer advocacy, so my goal is to make sure folks have all info before they buy something that I wish I had before I bought.
I agree with everything you said. I also noticed on mine, when I tighten the brass thumbscrew it would cause the red portion to shift a little. Fixed that with just a simple washer.
I use the JKM stop block and love it. I think the difference lies in what kind of woodworker you are. A carpenter is a lot rougher on their tools than a wood craftsman that is very gentle on them, (like me). I used to use the Kreg stops, but found they deflected too much, too easily. I don’t have that problem with the JKM block. Anyways, I enjoyed your honest review, and the way you presented it. Take care, and have a great day! ☮️
I have the stop block with the anodized finish (I am guessing that is the anti-slip coating you are referring to) I have had zero deflection using the red potion only and am very happy with the results. I recently built 15 drawers and cut all the sides using this block. after cutting 60 pieces I confirmed that they were all exactly the same length. I whole heartedly endorse this product now.
If you are lowering the stop block to accommodate cutting 3 inch stock then the 3 inch stock being cut would be taller than the plywood you used to contact only the red part of the stop block. The higher 3 inch stock would contact both pieces of the stop block which would not deflect.
Thanks for this review. I recently used the Katz Moses stop block for some end grain cutting boards and the results were underwhelming. I wasn’t running my board hard against it bu, as you demonstrated, if the red part is not fully engaged in all of the grooves, there is deflection even though I tightened the thumb screw fully. I wound up clamping a 2X2 to my fence to finish my boards. I thought that maybe I wasn’t using the stop properly because my cuts were so inaccurate so thanks again.
After a dozen or so years working with an Osborne miter setup, and actually having some time for myself, I decided to make a cross-cut sled. I was tempted to use the Katz-Moses stop block setup, but I don't like the aluminum-type stop blocks, etc, with all the extrusions and additional hardware required. I will make a fat, square block of maple and clamp it in position on the sled, when required. This seems much more stable and can be made without cost. The devil seems to lie in how to clamp the wooden stop block to the sled quickly and reliably. Now that I think about it, A small, wooden hand screw clamped in position to the back wall of the sled would suffice as a non-marring, repeatable stop block, as well as being easily adjustable and inexpensive. QED
Thank you for the review. One could make your own t track out of ply wood to the height needed. In doing so you don't have to worry about the bolts being used are genuine t bolts or just plain coach bolts.
Interesting review. I'm planning on getting one of the katz-moses stop blocks and building my own as well so I can compare the two. As for the issues you had, the first can be alleviated by using #6 screws. I use a lot of that t-track and using #6 screws ensures they sit below the bottom of the track. As for your second issue, I plan on getting a three arm knob from mcmaster carr (57715k28) and using a washer too. That should fix the issue of the small brass thumb screw not having enough force to clamp the face in place.
NW You’re probably right on both. The first issue I can’t fault Katz Moses for. I just didn’t sink the screws flush with the T Track. But the second issue is a concern, especially for those doing high precision production work. I’d rather not buy add-ons to a $30 stop in order to make it work properly.
@@NotThatMattNagy I do agree about not having to modify a tool to make it work right, but the fix could potentially be less than $1. I still plan on trying it out; you should let JKM know of your findings. I suspected that the brass thumb screw would be a weak link.
@@NotThatMattNagy I definitely will once mine arrives. I also drew up a design that works on a similar concept; two knobs up top hold it in place like yours and JKW's, but a single slot will be routed in the face pieces where I'll glue a hardwood key that the front face slides along. That'll keep it square and allows for the micro adjustment. I like the flip stop on your shop built block too.
Great review. One thing I've noticed with all of my Kreg flip stops is a small deflection when I tighten the knob. One of them deflects up to a 1/32 of an inch...which is fine for rough work, but rough for fine work. I'm not a professional woodworker, so I need all the accuracy I can get, and if these old eyes can see a 1/32nd of an inch gap in a joint, then so can others. I like the Katz-Moses design but it needs a few tweaks.
Thank you for posting your review. Was considering this product. I happened to catch a KM video yesterday where he suggested mounting T-Tract with glue instead of using screws. Seems he's aware of one of the issues you found with his stop. I think I'll just make my own.
Marcus Harrison In fairness, I think that issue was more my fault since I didn’t use the proper screws to attach the t track. But some have said even if you glue it down, regular bolts don’t slide as well as t slot bolts do.
@@NotThatMattNagy I guess I see your point about the red piece and the thumb screw but if you know when you bang pieces into it 20 times it deflects... maybe just slide the pieces up gently??? I do appreciate your solution. I'm making 3 right now except using box joints for the 90... just because there purdy!!
Hello @Matt Nagy; Your review is very good. I do have one question, from your stop block version, why not making the cut with a flip stop down? Thanks,
I have purchased 2 of the KM stop blocks for different projects im working on. Being only a hobbyist I don't forsee me slamming material into the stop block. I wonder if replacing the brass knob with a wing nut would allow you to put more pressure on it to prevent it from deflecting. Also, in regards to another commenter's remarks. Although your stop block stores in the same way as the KM one it takes more time to do so. The KM stop block just requires you to remove it and flip it around while leaving the bolts and knobs in the track where as yours requires the entire block and knobs to be removed. The second thing is in regards to your flip up portion of the stop. On yours in order to cut anything beyond the limitations of the flip up portion the entire block needs to be moved with the KM 3/4" material can just be slid underneath to cut whatever length is desired without having to realign the stop block. Just playing devil's advocate here I enjoyed your review.
Thanks for the comment, and I appreciate the devil's advocate perspective. I didn't need to slam the material into the stop to get it to deflect; in fact, I first noticed deflection just running some repeated test cuts when I was touching the stop after tightening the screw to what I thought was "tight enough". The test I ran in the video was with the thumb screw cranked on as tight as I could get it, and there was still deflection. If you're doing repeated cuts, say 20 or so, this could be a substantial issue. Another commenter suggested a gasket, and I considered a washer/wingnut combo like you suggested, and I think those would probably help increase friction. But I needed to run the test on the stop as-is, and I'm not a big fan of having to modify something I bought in order to get it to work to my satisfaction. To store my homemade stop, I loosen the knobs slightly, slide the stop off the track, turn it 180, put it back on the track, and tighten the knobs. The whole process takes about ten seconds, so if the K-M has me beat there, that's fine. I probably should have clarified: the flip up piece is only used when I'm making a cut where the offcut is very close to the blade and the stop. In those cases, having the offcut pinched between the blade and stop can be dangerous. If the cut im making is like 6 inches or longer, I don't even bother using the flip up. And it flips up higher than the blade when its cranked up so it wouldn't interfere there. You'll have to let me know what you think of the K-M when you break it in; maybe make a video on it yourself!
GuiTuber it’s possible, and i did think of trying a washer or something to at least spread out the clamping pressure of the thumb screw. But for a brand new item, you shouldn’t have to do that.
I was surprised as well. I considered making mine with a hinge for that purpose, but wanted to see how basic of a stop block design I could get away with.
Essentially your single concern seems to be the movement of red piece. (The other complaint is on you for not countersinking the T track screws.) Funny, watched that and immediately thought it needs a “rubber” washer. Not sure I’ve ever purchased a woodworking tool that didn’t need some tweaking. Don’t much care for brass screw as brass is a relatively soft metal but you didn’t seem to have an issue w that part of “design.” Always learn from your videos whether I agree completely or not.
For situations that you control, like not countersinking the track screw heads and not learning that tapping may cause adjustments, I think this is a nit-picky and unfair review. I also think that your stop block doesn’t store out of the way as easily or adjust for bigger pieces of stock. Even if the flip over piece is flipped over, the backing base is in the way of longer stock and would have to be removed a lot of times anyway rendering the flip over feature useless. Nice try though, I’ll go with the Katz-Moses.
Thanks for the feedback. I'll go in order here: 1) I mentioned that the t-track screw issue was my own fault; so let me re-iterate that it is clearly not K-M's fault. However, if K-M is selling a product designed to be used in t-track, I would encourage him to consider including the proper bolts for that application. I also said this issue wasn't a big deal. 2) Like most folks, I'm aware that stock coming into contact with a stop can cause that stop to deflect. This particular stop, though, is marketed as a "No Deflection" stop, and if you're going to advertise it as such, you need to make sure that's true. I think it's a critical design flaw that the thumb screw doesn't provide enough friction to stop the red piece from deflecting when it is not in the fully upright position, and that's a big problem, especially for production shops that demand high precision. I flat-out disagree that this flaw is an "unfair" or "nit-picky" issue. Again, I noted you can avoid this deflection by ever so gently putting the stock up against the stop with a feather's touch, but I don't know of anyone who does that, nor anyone who would expect to need to when using a "No Deflection" stop. 3) My homemade stop block stores out of the way in the same way that the K-M does. I also don't think that more than 1/2 or 3/4" of material is even necessary for a stop block, no matter what size of stock you're using, so the "extend out" feature of the K-M doesn't seem like something I would ever use. 4) I'm not sure what your "flip-over piece" comment means. 5) I'm not trying to dissuade anyone from buying this stop, and if you buy it, I encourage you to make a video reviewing it. The more info out there, the better.
@@NotThatMattNagy You were *neither* "nit-picky" nor "unfair" with your review. Katz-Moses would do well to watch your video and improve his design as a result. Woodworkers in particular seem to get overly bent out of shape with reviews that point out flaws in products they already own or plan to own. The marketing industry has done a good job of training us to tie our identities (who we are) with the objects we buy.
Keith Jeffries someone in the comments suggested incorporating a small rubber gasket between the thumb screw and the red piece to increase friction and prevent it from deflecting. I think that’s a good idea and KM might want to test that out and incorporate it into future shipments if it works well.
Lance Gunderson I think the manufacturer created screw mounting holes for a reason, don’t you? Also I later found out that #6 screws are the proper ones to use.
Dude, you’re missing one of the main objectives of a flip stop. A main function is that you can move away from cutting the stopped distance for a moment without losing your pre determined stop position. One of the main uses is that you might want to square on end. With your stop block, you can’t flip it out of the way to make a cut of another dimension. Sure, the oak piece flips up, but the maple piece is still in your way. If you want to make a cut and save your stop position, you’re out of luck. Back to the ol’ drawing board.
I first square the end, then I move the squared end over to contact the stop. After the second cut, I have two pieces that are the exact same length, each with ends that are 90 to the surface I had against the fence. That’s my main objective when using a sled and a stop. The oak flip up feature is only there to use in situations where the offcut to the right of the blade is so small that it may pinch between the blade and the stop and cause kickback. I actually got rid of that flip altogether and just use the maple portion. Zero issues.
You *CANNOT* compare a static stop block and a Flip stop. It's like orange and apple, hope you realize that. Also how often do you bang your stock against a stop block. Learn the proper way instead.
You criticize the stop block because you didn't mount your T-track properly. You bang your wood against the stop block and act like it moved. Honestly you can't see anything move. Why don't you just say you rather not spend money for a precision piece of equipment.
1) proper T-slot bolts had no issues in my T-track, and they tend to slide easier in t-track that’s been mounted properly as well 2) I think you may want to schedule a visit with your optometrist ASAP. Imagine you’re a woodworker that cuts to tight tolerances and you don’t notice that the stop had moved, even slightly, until after you’ve cut 100 pieces. You’ve wasted an hour of work and cost yourself money. 3) I mean, I bought the thing, so I did indeed spend my money. But a precision instrument it ain’t, and I get better results with my homemade stop block. The stop is more suited for a hobbyist who doesn’t do batch work.
This review is 🗑️. ALL quality t track fit 1/4" bolt heads for convenience and better value than buying the more expensive t bolts. You also have to counter sink your screws and add CA glue or epoxy because the screws are short. ALL QUALITY T TRACKS COME COUNTERSUNK PRE DRILLED. GEEZ
@@NotThatMattNagy I think it’s more of an office waste basket - no liquids please. Charles out here speaking in certainties when it need not be done. S m h
1. Someone who does real precision wood working, will be banging on a stop block, 2. The groves on the top of the Katz Moses stop block are made to fit any crosscut sled out there. 3. For you information, any t- track screw need to be counter sinked. Why I will waste my time grinding a screw over just contour sinked. Is just like locking your self and the keys inside the car and call a car opening services company to open the door for you when you can simply open the door. 4. Your sled and stop block, Sucks, And please don’t criticize others without analyzing your own work. Thanks.
Happy New Year! Point by point response, for your reading pleasure: 1) I assume you mean "won't be banging," because if not, they're not gonna like this stop. If you think what I subjected the stop to was outside the norm, go visit a production shop. 2) I have no reason to doubt this. 3) This is not correct. Most t-tracks come to you with a countersink already drilled, and #4 screws will sit flush in those counters. Plus, if you're using the proper bolt for the job (a t-slot bolt) you can use up to and including #8 screws and the bolts won't snag on the screw heads. Btw, the word you're looking for is "locksmith." 4) Crying rn
Happy New Year, Answers 1. No need to visit I Own a well known brand that you probably used on your work. Also a production shop is not find precision work. Is a production work. 2. GREAT! 3. “Most” the world is your answer. If you are using the correct screw, it will be no a problem been flush. Some T tracts don’t come with holes, you will countersink does.
I have this stop block and agree with your findings. My fix was to replace the small brass micro adjust knob with a larger thumb screw and a large washer between it and the red aluminum block. It allows me to tighten it better, as well as spread the load more across the part. Is it perfect and totally removes the issue? ... No, but it does improve it greatly. Just be careful not to over tighten it too far, as the aluminum *may* strip out. The thumb screw I used... a.co/d/aHlqqqj
This is a very helpful. I wouldn't have immediately thought of the problems and solutions you've demonstrated here. And you've given me food for thought for making my own stop block. Videos like these are what make CZcams worthwhile. Thank you!
Keith Jeffries I appreciate that. I come from a perspective of consumer advocacy, so my goal is to make sure folks have all info before they buy something that I wish I had before I bought.
I agree with everything you said. I also noticed on mine, when I tighten the brass thumbscrew it would cause the red portion to shift a little. Fixed that with just a simple washer.
I use the JKM stop block and love it. I think the difference lies in what kind of woodworker you are. A carpenter is a lot rougher on their tools than a wood craftsman that is very gentle on them, (like me). I used to use the Kreg stops, but found they deflected too much, too easily. I don’t have that problem with the JKM block. Anyways, I enjoyed your honest review, and the way you presented it. Take care, and have a great day! ☮️
I have the stop block with the anodized finish (I am guessing that is the anti-slip coating you are referring to) I have had zero deflection using the red potion only and am very happy with the results. I recently built 15 drawers and cut all the sides using this block. after cutting 60 pieces I confirmed that they were all exactly the same length. I whole heartedly endorse this product now.
You should consider doing a review of it!
If you are lowering the stop block to accommodate cutting 3 inch stock then the 3 inch stock being cut would be taller than the plywood you used to contact only the red part
of the stop block. The higher 3 inch stock would contact both pieces of the stop block which would not deflect.
@6:30 when you were hitting the stop block, did you notice it moved down the track 1/16" total. was the thumb screw very tight?
Thanks for this review. I recently used the Katz Moses stop block for some end grain cutting boards and the results were underwhelming. I wasn’t running my board hard against it bu, as you demonstrated, if the red part is not fully engaged in all of the grooves, there is deflection even though I tightened the thumb screw fully. I wound up clamping a 2X2 to my fence to finish my boards. I thought that maybe I wasn’t using the stop properly because my cuts were so inaccurate so thanks again.
After a dozen or so years working with an Osborne miter setup, and actually having some time for myself, I decided to make a cross-cut sled. I was tempted to use the Katz-Moses stop block setup, but I don't like the aluminum-type stop blocks, etc, with all the extrusions and additional hardware required.
I will make a fat, square block of maple and clamp it in position on the sled, when required. This seems much more stable and can be made without cost. The devil seems to lie in how to clamp the wooden stop block to the sled quickly and reliably.
Now that I think about it, A small, wooden hand screw clamped in position to the back wall of the sled would suffice as a non-marring, repeatable stop block, as well as being easily adjustable and inexpensive.
QED
Thank you for the review. One could make your own t track out of ply wood to the height needed. In doing so you don't have to worry about the bolts being used are genuine t bolts or just plain coach bolts.
Interesting review. I'm planning on getting one of the katz-moses stop blocks and building my own as well so I can compare the two. As for the issues you had, the first can be alleviated by using #6 screws. I use a lot of that t-track and using #6 screws ensures they sit below the bottom of the track. As for your second issue, I plan on getting a three arm knob from mcmaster carr (57715k28) and using a washer too. That should fix the issue of the small brass thumb screw not having enough force to clamp the face in place.
NW You’re probably right on both. The first issue I can’t fault Katz Moses for. I just didn’t sink the screws flush with the T Track. But the second issue is a concern, especially for those doing high precision production work. I’d rather not buy add-ons to a $30 stop in order to make it work properly.
@@NotThatMattNagy I do agree about not having to modify a tool to make it work right, but the fix could potentially be less than $1. I still plan on trying it out; you should let JKM know of your findings. I suspected that the brass thumb screw would be a weak link.
NW You should consider making a video showing how the modification works. The more info out there on the product the better.
@@NotThatMattNagy I definitely will once mine arrives. I also drew up a design that works on a similar concept; two knobs up top hold it in place like yours and JKW's, but a single slot will be routed in the face pieces where I'll glue a hardwood key that the front face slides along. That'll keep it square and allows for the micro adjustment. I like the flip stop on your shop built block too.
Great review. One thing I've noticed with all of my Kreg flip stops is a small deflection when I tighten the knob. One of them deflects up to a 1/32 of an inch...which is fine for rough work, but rough for fine work. I'm not a professional woodworker, so I need all the accuracy I can get, and if these old eyes can see a 1/32nd of an inch gap in a joint, then so can others. I like the Katz-Moses design but it needs a few tweaks.
DCon yeah, I think it’s a good first effort for sure. But if you do fine work for a living, I’m not sure it’s up to snuff at this point.
Thank you for posting your review. Was considering this product. I happened to catch a KM video yesterday where he suggested mounting T-Tract with glue instead of using screws. Seems he's aware of one of the issues you found with his stop. I think I'll just make my own.
Marcus Harrison In fairness, I think that issue was more my fault since I didn’t use the proper screws to attach the t track. But some have said even if you glue it down, regular bolts don’t slide as well as t slot bolts do.
You can eventually destroy a anvil with a trim hammer.
Why beat on it that way.
Clinton Caraway I wouldn’t.
@@NotThatMattNagy I guess I see your point about the red piece and the thumb screw but if you know when you bang pieces into it 20 times it deflects... maybe just slide the pieces up gently???
I do appreciate your solution.
I'm making 3 right now except using box joints for the 90... just because there purdy!!
Hello @Matt Nagy;
Your review is very good.
I do have one question, from your stop block version, why not making the cut with a flip stop down?
Thanks,
I have purchased 2 of the KM stop blocks for different projects im working on. Being only a hobbyist I don't forsee me slamming material into the stop block. I wonder if replacing the brass knob with a wing nut would allow you to put more pressure on it to prevent it from deflecting. Also, in regards to another commenter's remarks. Although your stop block stores in the same way as the KM one it takes more time to do so. The KM stop block just requires you to remove it and flip it around while leaving the bolts and knobs in the track where as yours requires the entire block and knobs to be removed. The second thing is in regards to your flip up portion of the stop. On yours in order to cut anything beyond the limitations of the flip up portion the entire block needs to be moved with the KM 3/4" material can just be slid underneath to cut whatever length is desired without having to realign the stop block. Just playing devil's advocate here I enjoyed your review.
Thanks for the comment, and I appreciate the devil's advocate perspective.
I didn't need to slam the material into the stop to get it to deflect; in fact, I first noticed deflection just running some repeated test cuts when I was touching the stop after tightening the screw to what I thought was "tight enough". The test I ran in the video was with the thumb screw cranked on as tight as I could get it, and there was still deflection. If you're doing repeated cuts, say 20 or so, this could be a substantial issue.
Another commenter suggested a gasket, and I considered a washer/wingnut combo like you suggested, and I think those would probably help increase friction. But I needed to run the test on the stop as-is, and I'm not a big fan of having to modify something I bought in order to get it to work to my satisfaction.
To store my homemade stop, I loosen the knobs slightly, slide the stop off the track, turn it 180, put it back on the track, and tighten the knobs. The whole process takes about ten seconds, so if the K-M has me beat there, that's fine.
I probably should have clarified: the flip up piece is only used when I'm making a cut where the offcut is very close to the blade and the stop. In those cases, having the offcut pinched between the blade and stop can be dangerous. If the cut im making is like 6 inches or longer, I don't even bother using the flip up. And it flips up higher than the blade when its cranked up so it wouldn't interfere there.
You'll have to let me know what you think of the K-M when you break it in; maybe make a video on it yourself!
Are you still liking your table saw? I’m getting ready to buy the same one based on your original review.
Very much. Quite satisfied with the performance for the price I paid.
I wonder if a rubber O-ring on that thumb screw might create enough friction to stop that little bit of deflection you encountered.
GuiTuber it’s possible, and i did think of trying a washer or something to at least spread out the clamping pressure of the thumb screw. But for a brand new item, you shouldn’t have to do that.
@@NotThatMattNagy, maybe so but sometimes a new product needs a revision or two to get it right.
It's surprising that there aren't more stop blocks that use 2 attachment points. Can't imagine it'd be that hard, and even maintain the full flip.
I was surprised as well. I considered making mine with a hinge for that purpose, but wanted to see how basic of a stop block design I could get away with.
Essentially your single concern seems to be the movement of red piece. (The other complaint is on you for not countersinking the T track screws.) Funny, watched that and immediately thought it needs a “rubber” washer. Not sure I’ve ever purchased a woodworking tool that didn’t need some tweaking. Don’t much care for brass screw as brass is a relatively soft metal but you didn’t seem to have an issue w that part of “design.” Always learn from your videos whether I agree completely or not.
He’s released a newer version of the product with an anti slip coating
Some people just think they know how to use everything
You say that the Katz Moses is too short, but that is adjustable by removing the front brass knob and moving the red piece down a notch.
Watch the rest of the video.
Oh ok. I missed the subtle correction
For situations that you control, like not countersinking the track screw heads and not learning that tapping may cause adjustments, I think this is a nit-picky and unfair review. I also think that your stop block doesn’t store out of the way as easily or adjust for bigger pieces of stock. Even if the flip over piece is flipped over, the backing base is in the way of longer stock and would have to be removed a lot of times anyway rendering the flip over feature useless. Nice try though, I’ll go with the Katz-Moses.
Thanks for the feedback. I'll go in order here:
1) I mentioned that the t-track screw issue was my own fault; so let me re-iterate that it is clearly not K-M's fault. However, if K-M is selling a product designed to be used in t-track, I would encourage him to consider including the proper bolts for that application. I also said this issue wasn't a big deal.
2) Like most folks, I'm aware that stock coming into contact with a stop can cause that stop to deflect. This particular stop, though, is marketed as a "No Deflection" stop, and if you're going to advertise it as such, you need to make sure that's true. I think it's a critical design flaw that the thumb screw doesn't provide enough friction to stop the red piece from deflecting when it is not in the fully upright position, and that's a big problem, especially for production shops that demand high precision. I flat-out disagree that this flaw is an "unfair" or "nit-picky" issue. Again, I noted you can avoid this deflection by ever so gently putting the stock up against the stop with a feather's touch, but I don't know of anyone who does that, nor anyone who would expect to need to when using a "No Deflection" stop.
3) My homemade stop block stores out of the way in the same way that the K-M does. I also don't think that more than 1/2 or 3/4" of material is even necessary for a stop block, no matter what size of stock you're using, so the "extend out" feature of the K-M doesn't seem like something I would ever use.
4) I'm not sure what your "flip-over piece" comment means.
5) I'm not trying to dissuade anyone from buying this stop, and if you buy it, I encourage you to make a video reviewing it. The more info out there, the better.
Matt Nagy: mentioning things that you find troublesome but no big deal as a fault made me think you were nit-picking.
Gary Fairbrother it may not be a big deal to you or me but it might be a big deal to the person listening to the review. That’s why i include it
@@NotThatMattNagy You were *neither* "nit-picky" nor "unfair" with your review. Katz-Moses would do well to watch your video and improve his design as a result.
Woodworkers in particular seem to get overly bent out of shape with reviews that point out flaws in products they already own or plan to own. The marketing industry has done a good job of training us to tie our identities (who we are) with the objects we buy.
Keith Jeffries someone in the comments suggested incorporating a small rubber gasket between the thumb screw and the red piece to increase friction and prevent it from deflecting. I think that’s a good idea and KM might want to test that out and incorporate it into future shipments if it works well.
all you had to do is not use screws on your glide use 5 minute epoxy
Lance Gunderson I think the manufacturer created screw mounting holes for a reason, don’t you? Also I later found out that #6 screws are the proper ones to use.
Dude, you’re missing one of the main objectives of a flip stop. A main function is that you can move away from cutting the stopped distance for a moment without losing your pre determined stop position. One of the main uses is that you might want to square on end. With your stop block, you can’t flip it out of the way to make a cut of another dimension. Sure, the oak piece flips up, but the maple piece is still in your way. If you want to make a cut and save your stop position, you’re out of luck. Back to the ol’ drawing board.
I first square the end, then I move the squared end over to contact the stop. After the second cut, I have two pieces that are the exact same length, each with ends that are 90 to the surface I had against the fence. That’s my main objective when using a sled and a stop. The oak flip up feature is only there to use in situations where the offcut to the right of the blade is so small that it may pinch between the blade and the stop and cause kickback. I actually got rid of that flip altogether and just use the maple portion. Zero issues.
You *CANNOT* compare a static stop block and a Flip stop. It's like orange and apple, hope you realize that. Also how often do you bang your stock against a stop block. Learn the proper way instead.
You criticize the stop block because you didn't mount your T-track properly. You bang your wood against the stop block and act like it moved. Honestly you can't see anything move. Why don't you just say you rather not spend money for a precision piece of equipment.
1) proper T-slot bolts had no issues in my T-track, and they tend to slide easier in t-track that’s been mounted properly as well
2) I think you may want to schedule a visit with your optometrist ASAP. Imagine you’re a woodworker that cuts to tight tolerances and you don’t notice that the stop had moved, even slightly, until after you’ve cut 100 pieces. You’ve wasted an hour of work and cost yourself money.
3) I mean, I bought the thing, so I did indeed spend my money. But a precision instrument it ain’t, and I get better results with my homemade stop block. The stop is more suited for a hobbyist who doesn’t do batch work.
This review is 🗑️. ALL quality t track fit 1/4" bolt heads for convenience and better value than buying the more expensive t bolts. You also have to counter sink your screws and add CA glue or epoxy because the screws are short. ALL QUALITY T TRACKS COME COUNTERSUNK PRE DRILLED. GEEZ
This review is a garbage can?
@@NotThatMattNagy I think it’s more of an office waste basket - no liquids please.
Charles out here speaking in certainties when it need not be done. S m h
@@ianquirk7770 have you considered he might be right since he used all caps?
@@NotThatMattNagy I did not consider this point. I’ll go drink a 12 pack and reflect on that. Thanks.
1. Someone who does real precision wood working, will be banging on a stop block,
2. The groves on the top of the Katz Moses stop block are made to fit any crosscut sled out there.
3. For you information, any t- track screw need to be counter sinked. Why I will waste my time grinding a screw over just contour sinked. Is just like locking your self and the keys inside the car and call a car opening services company to open the door for you when you can simply open the door.
4. Your sled and stop block, Sucks, And please don’t criticize others without analyzing your own work.
Thanks.
Happy New Year! Point by point response, for your reading pleasure:
1) I assume you mean "won't be banging," because if not, they're not gonna like this stop. If you think what I subjected the stop to was outside the norm, go visit a production shop.
2) I have no reason to doubt this.
3) This is not correct. Most t-tracks come to you with a countersink already drilled, and #4 screws will sit flush in those counters. Plus, if you're using the proper bolt for the job (a t-slot bolt) you can use up to and including #8 screws and the bolts won't snag on the screw heads. Btw, the word you're looking for is "locksmith."
4) Crying rn
Sir, have you locked yourself in a car before? Thanks.
Happy New Year,
Answers
1. No need to visit I Own a well known brand that you probably used on your work. Also a production shop is not find precision work. Is a production work.
2. GREAT!
3. “Most” the world is your answer. If you are using the correct screw, it will be no a problem been flush. Some T tracts don’t come with holes, you will countersink does.
I have this stop block and agree with your findings. My fix was to replace the small brass micro adjust knob with a larger thumb screw and a large washer between it and the red aluminum block. It allows me to tighten it better, as well as spread the load more across the part. Is it perfect and totally removes the issue? ... No, but it does improve it greatly. Just be careful not to over tighten it too far, as the aluminum *may* strip out.
The thumb screw I used... a.co/d/aHlqqqj