Deck Repairs Part 3: Bonding the New Core
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2017
- This is the third part of a series of videos on repairing fiberglass boat decks. In the first part, David showed how to identify problem areas. In the second part, he talked about how he removes and replaces bad sections of the deck core. In this final video of the series, he'll show you what epoxy supplies he uses, the process for bonding the new core in place, how he uses fiberglass cloth to strengthen the repair, the filling and fairing process, and finally priming the work in preparation for painting.
Thanks for the mini-series on deck repair!
Hi Kyle... Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it!
Well done, thanks for the time and effort to pass this on.
Great job, I had a rough idea but now I am more confident. Thanks a million.
Very nice series. Thank you. This will help me with my repairs.
Very good instruction. Makes it less daunting to consider doing my own decks. Many thanks for posting.
Thank you so much for your expertise.
Great job and very informative. I’ll be tackling this project on my 34 Mainship soon. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you found it helpful. Good luck on the project!
Thanks for posting. Very helpful and described in a clear and precise manner! Fair winds!
Thanks Michael - I appreciate the feedback!
Excellent. Thank you.
Fantastic, great help. I have the daunting task of taking on a similar job where a large amount of teak has lifted quite badly. I have no idea what’s I’m going to find underneath.
Good info I really liked this video series. Well done!!
Thanks for the feedback! Good luck on the project
@@davidlynn6024 Thank You.
Thanks for this video :). Helped a lot!
Thanks for feedback... and glad you liked it.
Wow nicely done
Great video again! On larger projects I would evenly pour the epoxy onto the cloth and spread it out much quicker using a squeegee! Using the brush takes too much time and in hot temperatures can start to harden before you have gotten a chance to wet out the whole area. Using the squeegee will also give you more time to use the roller to get out the air bubbles before the epoxy starts to cure. This is important especially if you are going to use several layers of cloth. On much smaller projects using a brush is ok.
Good suggestion. The area I was working was big enough to merit using a squeegee... thanks.
Thanks. Really useful and well explained. I'm almost looking forward to repairing my own deck ;-)
Well done.
Thank you so much. I am doing the same thing, but could not find the details that you point out concerning the different kinds of epoxy and how to mix and use each one. Now I can finish my project.
Glad you found it helpful! Good luck on the project.
Thank you.
I'm just about to get into this on my deck... This video really helps.
Hope the video helps… and good luck on the project!
@@JustALittleFurther
Thanks, it all seems fairly simple, I'm just fuzzy on the final deck, where there might not be the paint to cover it up.
Thanks again 👍
Thanks!
The vacuum pump is the best solution - the final finish in such a job is difficult and needs some talent - unless no one care how it looks like. In my case, I may install teak planks over (booth side, so looks the same). I am checking also the SeaSek product (they will cut to size). Instead, plywood use balsa. Not expensive for such an application. It is a good idea to find out how the water enter and caused the damage (does not make any sense to reuse the removed deck if has stress cracks). Good video - give an idea of how to approach the repair (important - plan the cut before starting to cut the deck). It is time-consuming work, needs knowledge and dedication. And again - the most difficult is the final finish.
Instead of having a vertical brittle joint from the existing fiberglass deck and the replaced glass piece, try creating perhaps has much of a feathered edge 12:1 in both directions and then place the tape(s) over the joint, you can see this process in the West Manuals. But as one of the comments below suggests don't use the plywood, but balsa or better yet the foam as I suggested in video #2.
Great video series, thank you. I recored the bow section of my previous sailboat, and looking to start a new project that also needs recoring. I used your method on my last project and it worked well, but another school of thought in this is to use layups of glass (1708 and CSM) to create a new deck skin, rather than use the old one. Thoughts on this? I'm trying to decide which route I will go.
I've done it both ways. If the deck skin is in good shape, I think it's easier to reuse it than layup a new deck skin. If the old deck skin is damaged or delaminated, there's no question that laying up a new one is the better way to go.
Really good job on this. I've bookmarked it for upcoming projects. Quick question, when you placed blocks into wetted expoxy\403 mix on bottom do you also put the epoxy\403 on bottom of each block ? Thanks again for posting. - Cape Cod
Good question. Yes - I painted the bottoms and sides of the blocks with straight epoxy first, then wet out the bottom surface, followed by the 403 mix.
Nice job. Very informative. I’m about to rip out my side deck. Just wondering why do you cut small blocks of ply instead of one big piece?
@@drs9147 Partly because the surface below is not entirely flat and partly because smaller pieces are easier to work with.
Well done, ty for your natural way. I see you cloth the deck to finish it. I was wondering if reusing the cut fiber glass piece was possible?
Hi Francic8955, actually, I did reuse the cut fiberglass. Towards the end of the video, you’ll notice I epoxied the old glass in place, then glassed over it with new tape and cloth to reinforce the bond, and level the surface. Hope this helps. Good luck on the project!
@@gentryanderson3247 much appreciated, i dont understand why i had missed this, my bad. Will revisit your video thoroughly over the weekend. Thank you for this.
The video is loading. Was it taken down?
When you coat the pieces with epoxy, do you use the hardener? Thanks
Yes, you should use the mixture of resin and hardener for coating the pieces
Is it easier to use small pieces rather than one solid piece. I am repairing a locker lid, so I have a edge to force the solid piece in. Enjoy your vids.
I generally think it's easier with small pieces, but for your locker lid, a single solid piece may well work just fine. Make sure to dry-fit it before applying the epoxy. Good luck!
@@JustALittleFurther thank you so much for helping me twice. Still a little scared, but thanks to you, I am going to try it as soon as it warms up a little. The best to you and your wife. Bill Johnson
Looks like a lot of work...but nice job!
I am more confused than when I started