Failed deck core repair Part II
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- čas přidán 23. 03. 2021
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This is the second video in the series for a failed core. This boat had a lot of failed core and an unusual mix of two different cores during it's original construction.
We used plywood as our core for two reasons:
1) we were removing a deck hatch and making it a regular piece of deck again.
2) there were already 2 different cores in the boat (and plywood was available on short notice)
We have done core repairs with balsa and various foam cores. Feel free to reach out if you have a question.
Unfortunately the boat was knocked over in a hurricane and stripped before we could get back to it. The boatyard forgot to mention that the boat had been knocked over and forgot to protect it. It was stripped to a point that it was not worth saving. Sails, halyards, sheets, cushions, tools, epoxy, glass, anchors and and and.
We will complete another deck restoration in the near future and will finish the video series and possibly even use other cores. Stay tuned and feel fre to reach out with any questions.
And as always; enjoy your boat!
What a great attitude! Nobody will die if it’s not exactly right. Thanks for the vid three years later.
Thank you for your tutorial video it helps new boat owners like myself who don’t have alot of money
Thank you so much for these videos. I recently took on an abandoned Pearson Alberg 35 with little to no experience and as I kept learning I discovered the balsa core is bad in more than a few spots. I was freaking out until you showed how simple it is to replace.
Very educational, thank you!
Part 3 please!
Just loving this guys straight to the point no bull shit attitude I could be around this guy all day
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Ty for the Videos. They are great and your a wealth of information. Hope all is well with you. Ty
would love to see more, I know it is a lot of work to make videos but hard to find good info on repairing deck cores.
We Have another one coming soon. We will post more on this as we plow through it.
Thank you for the videos ,they are most informative ,sorry to hear about the yobbos stripping the boat ,I'm looking forward to more videos of your repairs
Thank you. We are sailing Florida Keys. More to come.
Thanks for sharing.
I needed to see this information.
There is a lot of fear for nothing.
No matter how old this video is.
The information remains.
Too bad it wasn't finished though.
Nice, super helpful! We just got our Brandholm 26 and the bow has a bit of flex when you step on, and assuming that this is the problem. Really takes the scare out of tearing up the deck and fixing it, great video. Now just gotta carefully remove the teak and chop it open
Glad that we could help. Feel free to reach out at any time.
thank you. Sorry to hear your boat was stripped.
your a legend this isn't boat work, this is philosophy
We love you!
Sorry to hear about your boat.
Thank you for the awesome video. I’m sorry to hear about that pesky hurricane how dear Mother Nature screw up this video,oh well😊 l found it very informative and l hope you continue to teach us all how we can do our own repairs on our boats.
Great video. Was so looking forward to your finishing techniques. Dam hurricane. Oh well, hopfuly you have another repair soon.
These repairs are popping up more often these days. We will have another soon.
This pops up a lot these days, so we will get another chance. And we have already replaced that project boat with another. A 50ft ketch. Stunning with videos already in the can. Just have to squeeze the editor to post them.
@@sailboatcareandrepair Looking forward to the completion of the process. Thanks for the heads up.
One great teacher in all aspects. Thank you,
Reza
@@rezas2385 thank you
BTW I've been waiting for part III... cheers
We will be doing another core repair soon and will have the rest of the steps.
Great video. Would have liked to see it to the end - meaning part three where you would have put the laminate pieces cut out back. I've seen others who don't want to use the deck pieces over, and just lay new glass. I assume once ground and get it perfect you would do the same for the top laminated, with thickened epoxy, then lay glass along the cut beveled edges of the upper laminate edges. Maybe for a future video...
I have done it both ways, but putting the original deck back has always been the easiest for me.
We will have a similar project soon and will give part three.
@@sailboatcareandrepairr a DIY boat repair beginner like myself, a part 3 would be super helpful! Thanks from Scotland!
yeees pls part 3 😅
Awesome! Just starting the project now so hopefully I will be at that point when part 3 is ready!!@@sailboatcareandrepair
Great video! Sorry to hear about the boat.
We’re looking at a Pearson 365 and the surveyor told us the deck area below the windless has a failed core. We are super handy but have never worked on boats. You made the repair seem not so frightening.
We may have to communicate with your further if we purchase the Pearson.
Great boat!!
Feel free to reach out at any time. I am headed down to a boat in the Panama Canal Zone so might be out of touch for a week or so, butt I am happy to help
Love your vids.cant find third part.hope u ok
Awesome Video, I need to re-core my cockpit sole and I live in Florida. I notice a layer of condensation that forms on my boat every evening. How do you go about ensuring things actually dry out instead of just exposing the core to more water when you make the repair?
Watched a number of videos for the same subject but for some reason I could understand yours the best. But for reasons beyond your control I would like to see how to finish the deck. Replacing the original non-slip to the new core and how to do the seam where it was cut. The first and second video were some what logical like painting a wall with a roller. It's the steady hand with the brush I'd like to see. Thanks
We will be doing another core repair soon and will have the rest of the steps.
Thank you for the video. I was curious where part III is? I don't see the step I was interested in, which is how you get that concave in your core.
Unfortunate ending I’m sorry my friend. I’m looking to do a deck repair on a cockpit of a 28 foot sea sprite, this was very informative.
We already have another project boat. Feel free to reach out with any questions
@@sailboatcareandrepair Thank you, Definitely will when problems arise!
Thank you for posting this, super helpful video. I have a section of deck that's spongy and want to replace the core. Did you precoat your plywood and let it dry before putting it down? what about laying fiberglass down on top of your wood for strength? Do you use multiple crossed layers or just one layer?
Thanks for this video series, sorry for the hurricane damage and the thieves. I’ve got this same issue around my hatch, what’s the final step? I assume it’s to put the top fiberglass back on with the same process as you did the wood?
I possibly have some deck repairs to do on my gulfstar 41 if your looking for content you know I could use some help it’s my first boat and I’d love to get hands on learning
Whats the weight and volume of that West Systems 406 box?🙂
I don’t know how much to order… 🙁
Thanks for your time to teach us! I have the same question as another poster - on the walkway where you cut the long piece of top layer off to remove the balsa under it - will you use that top layer again? I ask because mine has the non-skid pattern I could cut out the entire section of the non-skid replace the core under it and use that top section right back again. What do you say about that?
Yes you can do that. If you are saving the nonskid remember to cut far enough away from it to ha e room to glass it back to the deck without messing up the nonskid.
And while doing this keep in mind that as you get close to the edge of the deck, the core isn't there anymore. Look inside before you cut so that you don't accidentally cut the whole deck off. Fixable but a pain in the butt and embarrassing
Hi, thankyou forr your lession! It's possible as you said in the end of the video (but I'm not native english speaker) to do the same from the bottom with the same streghtenimg result?
Thamkyou in advance fornyour kind reply.
New subscriber and new-to-sailing rookie here with a question. I acquired a decent project boat with a badly rotted front deck that resulted from a poorly sealed owner-installed small vent over the vee-berth decades ago. Over the years it appears the rot has consumed most of the core from one side of the deck to the other - and almost from the tip of the bow to the beginning of the cabin. In a case like this, where most of the top will be removed and nearly all of the core replaced, is one large cut of the top deck possible and/or preferable to many smaller cuts, or should the job be divided into smaller sections? I hope that question made sense. Many thanks for your contribution to this hobby.
It makes sense. One cut is easier, but not always possible. Thump around and cut the deck just outside of the dull sound.
Watch out for where the core ends. It does not go all the way out to the edge of the deck. Look under to see where the thicker cored part ends. You don't want to cut the non-cored part. If you end up needing to cut more, you can.
What boatyard are you at? I'm in the same area and want to know what to look out for. Or if you'd rather, what boatyard do you prefer?
And thanks for the videos! I'm working on this project right now so this is very timely.
It was a boatyard in northern Florida. We are hoping that they will take a little bit of responsibility without needing an attorney so will be quiet about them for now.
There are a lot of wonderful yards that I have worked in and worked with. Only a few are truly shady. What part of the country are you in?
@@sailboatcareandrepair oh, I thought you were in south Florida. I'm in St Petersburg and will need a yard in a couple of months to haul out and repaint.
@@IanSan56
Check the yards in Salt Creek, also a yard across the bay. Forgot the name but south east of St. Pete. Good.folks and reasonable. The yard is for sale and we thought about buying it about a year ago, but the partner had a family problem and dropped out.
How do people get into these yards after a hurricane and strip a boat that doesn’t happen in a day. We’re you guys to far away to get back timely. I live in Alaska and we have crazy winds all year usually in winter but if it was the case I would be checking often. Just my opinion.
We were on another boat over a thousand miles away.The ground washed out from under the stands and the yard neither mentioned that the boat had fallen nor that it was being stripped, so we finished the other boat. In the Caribbean and more responsible yards, they let you know if there has been a problem. We will stick to more responsible yards in the future.
what tool would you use to shape the camber and grind down the wood?
Grinder with 36 grid or a planer.
So I have a 4’ x 1’ area on a Hobie cat 14 that is delaminated. Right under the trampoline - starboard. The core of any has to be less than 1/8”. Do you still recommend the same approach?
Never done a core that is so thin. That is such a small surface area that I would leave it alone for a while. Decide if you love the boat. If yes, I would do a proper repair. If it doesn't bother you or you don't fall in love - leave be.
If you do the cut out repair, I would only cut 3-4 inches wide so that you have plenty of surface to glass back to at the end.
This will allow you to slide in core after a good clean and dry or even shoot in high density foam.
Let us know what you decide. We would be happy to go over it in more detail if you decide to pull the trigger.
@@sailboatcareandrepair thank you for your prompt response. I was just about to do the hole fix until I came across your video. Seems like most repairs involve using git rot when filling in the holes. I’ll get back to you after further research.
Have some rotten core as well on my boat, but do not want to cut open the top because of the anti skid pattern. Is it OK to open up the inside and do the repair from the inside altough is working against gravity with the sticky and runny epoxy.
You got it. It works upside down, but it's upside down. If the nonskid pattern is symmetric, you can make a mold and replace it.
Which ever is easier or you. But keep in mind the massive amounts of fiberglass grinding dust.
@@sailboatcareandrepair Cleared the front cabin and sealed it from the rest of the boat, got the vacuum cleaner and safety measures ready for this messy Job.
First thougt was to drill a dozen or more holes, but someone 🤫confinced me to open up the deck.
Thanks for the advice.👍
Sorry to hear about your bad vandals experience. Some folks just don't get it. My question is how do I know what type of deck material I have and do all deck floors have that 1st layer a thin layer. My 1st time cutting into my deck scares me a bit without knowing depth of 1st layer to get a proper inspection of what's really going on under there. The soft spot is 2ft x 2ft max on an '06 Pursuit 2470. Thank you, Jim G.
Thank you,
I understand your concern. Drill a quarter inch hole and you will be able to see the thickness of the first fiberglass layer. Once you do this some of the core will come up and we can decide which core you have. Most production boats have balsa core, but not all.
Part 3!!!!!!
Nice video! The product you use do the work?
Using the same type of core as the boat was built with is usually best but foams and even plywood fine.
Any epoxy that you can get is also ok.
The key is clean clean clean and dry dry dry.
Then epoxy her back together and enjoy.
We will be doing another boat with core failures soon to add to and complete the full series
Great video..!!! 30:50 did you put like a weight on it, to keep it pressed down, or just let it dry without weight? That's crazy a hurricane knocked your boat over, and vandals stripped her. :/
how much does it normally cost to get a boat recored?
Hiring a boatyard to do this is very far from cheap. And sneaking add on costs should be expected as they dig in and more is found to be done along the way. A dishonest yard will have you by the short hairs and it can get ugly quick.
Just wondering would this be good to use for deck core?
Severe Weather 23/32-in x 4-ft x 8-ft Pressure Treated Cdx Southern Yellow Pine Plywood Sheathing
From lowes
The product that makes wood pressure treated rejects the epoxy. It doesn't work.
@@sailboatcareandrepair what do you recommend and where would it be good to purchase
Thanks
Why didn’t you put slits in the back of the ply to allow for camber it would conform
The camber was so minor on this boat that it was easier in an instructional video to just sand a 16th off the corners. There are a bunch of other things that we can add in a second or third round of videos, but for most people, it's not needed. We are the real world repair channel after all Someday I should do another channel for guys who have more time, more tools etc. Thanks for checking and for those that want to learn this technique - let us know and I will gladly do a quick video on it.
Not a large enough area to be worth it. And the uncut plywood is more stable, so skipped it on this project. We do it sometimes, though. Just not here.
What about balsa in the hull, or are isn't there any?????????????
Balsa cored hills exist but are not common. I recommend doing core repairs on a hull from the inside. Controlling the fiberglass dust is the key. BIG vacuum and partitioning with plastic.
Is polyester resin ok to use instead of epoxy resin?
Sure, it's fine but epoxy is more of a glue so works a little better in my personal opinion. But there is a whole school of thought that you should stay with what the boat was originally built with and it does work. I use epoxy on repairs like this since it has slightly better qualities as a glue.
@@sailboatcareandrepair Thanks. Also on the boat flooring I'm repairing, the original floor is screwed down to the stringers. Should I just glue the new section to the stringers or place screws like the factory did?
Definitely screw. The boat flexes and can pop the cabin sole (floor) loose if only glued. Screwing allows you to pull it up if needed too.
@@sailboatcareandrepair Thank you so much for all the replies. It has helped so much with me taking this on alone.
Where is part 3! 😮
If you just glue back the outer skin instead of laminating with the neibourghing skin the deck isn t a single skin any more , doesn t it weaker the sandwich ?
Cut more mine keen
Dont they ineject gorrilla glue instead of epoxy now because it absorbs the moisture and hardens wet material?
I don't as it would be really expensive unless the void was very small
Where is part 3?
The boat was destroyed in a hurricane but we will do another video to show the rest on another boat.
Hello thank you for your video just picked it up ,do you let the plywood and hole dry before you stick down with with thicken apoxy ? Do you have part three out yet , great help thank you
Regards Chris UK
Good Information no doubt but please less dialog and more content.
Yeah took me like a week to finish this video lol. j/k
If in doubt, cut it out!
Looks like my rotten boat,I used corecell and coosa as a new core.
I have used nearly everything except Coosa, but we plan to use it on a bulkhead replacement soon.
Do well and have fun with your boat.
@@sailboatcareandrepair coosa is tough on saw blades,I have dedicated blades now just for it,not going to ruin any more new table saw blades.the cutting dust is annoying too. I wear gloves
Good info.....you should show more doing the work....and talk a little less...
I found the commentary helpful and entertaining. Keep up the great work, OP!
I enjoy your commentary. It’s makes what could be a boring video entertaining. More importantly it gives encouragement to people like me who don’t have much experience in the boat yard. Now I’m actually looking forward repairing my old C&C. Thank you!
I actually like your sens of humour..so keep talking ...
2 videos, and an incomplete job. Not helpful.
Too much blah blah blah.