Video

How much drip is appropriate for running

Where is part 3! 😮

You make it all look easy..I love the video

Thanks - such a great instructional video- explains exactly the problem I was facing and I can now go back to my own boat engine with a clear idea of what needs to be done.

What about balsa in the hull, or are isn't there any?????????????

Thank you. Used this today. Went great.

Watched a number of videos for the same subject but for some reason I could understand yours the best. But for reasons beyond your control I would like to see how to finish the deck. Replacing the original non-slip to the new core and how to do the seam where it was cut. The first and second video were some what logical like painting a wall with a roller. It's the steady hand with the brush I'd like to see. Thanks

Great info explained well,thanks.

A very helpful, step-by-step, informative video! I am looking for some content on removing the manifold on a Westerbeke 30B Three marine diesel engine.. and another one for the Heat exchanger, removing, re-assembling etc. can you recommend any resources?

TKS for the informations. Best regards from Paulo S/V Tururá from Brazil. Good winds!!

Man. I just lunched my boat today and water started pouring. After a milf heart attack i stumbled on this video. Thank you for saving my boat!!! I’m a rookie and just getting to know boats. One question: How do you adjust to the correct position? Should I be looking for something? Is there a rule of thumb. Once again THANK YOU!!!!

Remove the back ground music it does nothing for the video

Great video! Now you've got me worried that one tube of grease won't be enough. The kit only comes with one tube, which I would assume should be plenty for a prop that hasn't been neglected?

Thanks. Very informative

Thank you so much for your detailed tutorial. I wish I had watched your instructions prior to replacing the port-ligh on my 52 Beneteau. This window is the largest port light on the boat apx 4’ x 2’. I had a new Lexan replacement panel made, and did what I thought was meticulous and correct reinstalling it. Long story short the window leaked worse after I replaced it then before I’ve spent countless hours trying to reseal it and after watching your tutorials, realize all of the mistakes I made. The port light is going to get removed, meticulously, cleaned, sanded, masked, caulked as you have demonstrated in your part one and part two. Thank you so much.

Great video..!!! 30:50 did you put like a weight on it, to keep it pressed down, or just let it dry without weight? That's crazy a hurricane knocked your boat over, and vandals stripped her. :/

What a great attitude! Nobody will die if it’s not exactly right. Thanks for the vid three years later.

WHAT A TERRIBLE ACCESS

👊🏻🇺🇸👊🏻

Spot on!👊🏻🇺🇸

Spot on!👊🏻🇺🇸

Interlux compatibility chart indicates, for example, that if you're putting on Micron Extra SPC over Baltoplate, that a light sand & apply is proper action. I understand you're talking about real world experiences, so how then does Interlux not suggest total removal in your opinion?

Not so bad. nothing the pumps cant keep up with BUT how do you adjust it? how much water should come in to keep it cool when it is right? Are we talking DRIP Mississippi DRIP or more than that

2 videos, and an incomplete job. Not helpful.

Thanks & greetings from Ireland. The winches are on the job list. Maybe now we see how easy it is we might to take on the service ourselves. Just subscribed

What was the big white arrow head pointer on the top of the filter mount, was it pointing to an air bleed plug when you're finished and cranking engine...mine has a large white plastic star-shaped knob on top..so thought your white arrow might be pointing to something similar...camera work was too far away for most of the video...and the dark shirt made it impossible to see the black drain plug you were holding up in front of you and opening on bottom to drain fuel. People talk about "polishing" the fuel, but if you have no gunk and/or water in this filter, what's the point of "polishing," ...and how is that typically done if you did ?

Oh my gawd this was funny

I’m visiting your channel again because I plan on doing this project on my boat sometime soon. Bummer we couldn’t get part 3! You are among the best boating channels. I hope you make the time to create more videos and find great success.

If you just glue back the outer skin instead of laminating with the neibourghing skin the deck isn t a single skin any more , doesn t it weaker the sandwich ?

Too much talk blah blah blah !!

Very useful information. Thank you for sharing.

Put down your cigar and show us how to remove the drum from the base instead

Bolox to any one who complains about the incessant yapping, go sone where else! You are supposed to find out how to do this operation, before starting to do it!! 😂🤣 Thank you kindly young Sir for sharing.

You are a boating Chingón. Thanks for the instruction video.

I will be servicing my winches soon over winter... I will follow your directions.... Spraying an aerosol right next to a lit cigar.... 🤔 I think I will not follow your lead on this step! 😂😂😂

Hey thanks for this video of explaining what not to do.. intelligence is easy to come by.. wisdom on the their hand is not.. appreciate you.

Where can I find a replacement for the soft blue collar on the top of the winch?

Thank you for your tutorial video it helps new boat owners like myself who don’t have alot of money

On my 1981 Hunter 27 you have to slide engine forward and remove the coupling from drive shaft to get enough gland cap clearance to access packing,,

same issue but our boat have starboard the issue ithit from insite and glue new 3d core in

Maybe I missed something, but you first talked about this being a self bleeding system, but then later discussed the bleed valve on the Racor. Also (someone else asked this too…) Assume fuel should be shut off before this change (??) but I don’t know if you did that. Also, why is there no black gasket on top of the replacement filter? Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Amen! Haha... I cringe when I see the drill and fill tutorials. Cutting the deck off is a lot of work but the only REPAIR option. Everything else is just a temporary "improvement" and passing your problems to the next owner.

I really think you should hold beer in a glass instead of a cigar while working. It would show the professionalism of you more, or juggling tennis balls don't you think?

Personally I would just buy the proper open-end wrenches for the job. Less chance of damaging the nuts and easier to reach.

Whats the weight and volume of that West Systems 406 box?🙂 I don’t know how much to order… 🙁

I wonder if it’s more easily done if you go from inside of the boat. Yes you are working in ceiling but you can hide the cuts very easily

Thank now im going to drill a 1000 holes an inject epoxy…. Haha 😂 Nah I’m going to make a new core, How should I go about the moisture in the remaining wood? Is it okay to replace the rotten parts ? And seal it?

Estoy maravillado con tu manera demostrarme algo que me preocupaba y aterroriza. Tengo una pequeña gotera en el eje y no sabía cómo hacerlo. Soy mecánico de automóviles, pero he comprado un bote y tengo mis dudas en las reparaciones más específicamente marinas. Tu video me despejó dudas, aunque no sé si estoy preparado para hacerlo con el bote en el mar.¿como puedo mandarte un video con mi eje y su goteo? Un abrazo y gracias por tu trabajo de información.

I have a soft spot (maybe 2'x3') above the grab rail. I know the grab rail is the source of the leak. People have said that since the spot is above the grab rail it is not the source of the leak. Since it is balsa end grain core, isn't it possible for the water to "wick up" and do damage? Also, since I am pretty sure I caught this in the early stages, is it possible to drill only to give it an opportunity to dry out? or is what you are doing in this video the only way? BTW - I saw video two and that sucks that the boat got knocked down. Thanks.

You were not very clear on whether or not to drill a thousand damned holes in the deck.