Making a $2300 tool for $120!
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2024
- I wanted to save myself $2200 and make myself a magnetic base for this electric tapping arm. If you missed my last video, I talked alot about this awesome tool. This improvement will make it way more usable in my shop. Check out the tapping arm video here:
• $1000 tool that made m...
For parts and tools I used in this video see below. As an amazon affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases.
300KG lifting magnet:
amzn.to/43QiYhP
Tapping Arm
amzn.to/3L2JKL4
M18 Metal Cutting Saw
Check out the Lincoln Electric Power Mig 140MP, great for the home shop, Mig, TIG, and Stick in 1 machine!
→ bit.ly/MakeEverything140
→ Lincoln 215MPI Welder: lered.info/215MPi_Zeppieri
→ Mig Welding Pliers - amzn.to/3VQ8KtR
→ Welding Hood - amzn.to/3yVMox9
Thank you to Pferd abrasives for supporting my shop and my channel. For links to some of the grinding discs I use most see below:
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
→ Flap disc:
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→ Inside corner disc (AMAZING):
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→ Wire Wheel:
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Thanks for watching! Be careful, know the limits of your skills and your tools! Don't try this stuff at home!
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For PDFs of some of our project check out our profile on Instructables:
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Below are some links to tools I use in the shop on a daily basis.
Starbond CA Glue:
bit.ly/2H2eQmn
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
→ Bosch Miter Saw ( My Favorite miter saw)
amzn.to/2BeBulk
→ Sawstop Table Saw:
amzn.to/2DuAYVy
→ Wen Tabletop Metalcutting Bandsaw
amzn.to/2DrS7zf
→ Articulated Vise:
amzn.to/2FXKw9V
→ Bosch Portable Bandsaw ( 18V)
amzn.to/2mQdUq4
→ Porter Cable Restorer:
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→ Lincoln 120V Welder ( good for a home shop)
amzn.to/2Dly6qV
→ The Camera I use:
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→ The Tripod I use:
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The author does like to czcams.com/users/postUgkxkNYRBJuiJ6EwD-tQSAlxg0eFKsnR2cgz from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
Basically the reason the steel plate makes it weaker is by blocking the magnetic field from escaping and completing the loop with the metal table. Ideally the plate should be made out of aluminum
i was about to post something similar! Great work either way! A killer option for so many tools in the shop!
I thought the same things, but I really like his solution of the isolation plate. I'm guessing the isolation plate costs significantly less than an aluminum plate of similar rigidity to that steel plate.
Oh damn, nice idea. Some 6061-T6, three-quarter inch aluminum plate would be perfect, supply houses out by me so that stuff all day long.. I was going to suggest putting a copper plate between the steel and the magnet to block the magnetic field, but your solution is so much simpler.👍
Use aluminum or stainless base
Stainless is a great idea, I hadn't thought of that. Aluminum would be way cheaper and much easier to work with in my experience.
It blows me away how some people are so creative. They have the ability to build so many really useful and fantastic things. You truly have a gift!
Clever. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Just got my tapping arm set up thanks for the review on it. Ordered the imperial version, collets are all spot on and its 110v ready.
Magnets have a lot of little quirks you never realize until you run into them. That was so surprising!
Nice video. Interesting how the plate reduced the magnetism. Mahalo for sharing! 🙂🙏🙂
Great job there Chris , you must have very smart friends because " Birds of a Feather ... Flock together......."
I was surprised the magnet dilutes with direct contact; new lesson, great fix!
I would so love to have a shop like this!
its been a long road but after 7 years of working and reinvesting I have my own dream shop. You can too!!!!
Great idea.
Nice job. 👍
pretty cool fix.
Awesome Idea. Hopefully it works well. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Keep Making. God bless.
Thanks for watching Jared
I would use two of them!!! Good job :)
Any time you tap a through hole, Try a two flute spiral point tap. Pushes the chips right through ahead of the tap and lessens the chance of chips getting stuck and breaking the tap. Generally seems to require less torque also. Nice job BTW.
Very clever, just curious about what kind of tapping jobs earn you a decent revenue, can you expand on what you use the arm for and what type of commission clients are asking?
I noticed one thing while using my mag drill on my fixture table. Each hole in the fixture table is a spot where the magnet can not grab on. Putting my mag drill on a piece of solid plate gave a strong hold than putting it directly on the fixture table. This is not really your issue but I wanted to contribute to the conversation. Great solution you came up with!
I love that tap tool, imagine having a reasonable priced drilling tool like that
Nice mod. I would have gone with the blue on the body. Vevor makes some decent stuff I find. ✌ 😃
Hey Chris, just curious as to what brand of spiral-point tap you were using here. You make great tool recommendations, and I've purchased many based on the content of your videos. Thanks in advance!
At 4:53 when you bump the shaft from one side, it rocks a little. Might add a small gusset from the adaptor plate to the table possibly to reduce that if it's a problem, though you may have another magnetic flux problem on your hands with that additional change.
very very nice
I wonder if an electromagnet would be better for this application, like a custom built one that has a proper base, body and non-magnetic stainless top for mounting the tapping arm.
I’ve been wanting to build an electromagnetic equipment base myself, but I’m lacking critical information such as enamel wire sizing and the right DC volt-amps to supply the coil with for maximum holding power. Everything else such as electrical circuitry and wiring, bobbins, steel block and aluminimum seperator can be done for the assembly.
Great problem solving and video. I just bought the same machine. Where did you get the chuck and / or taper? to suit this machine?
Kind regards from Ric
I think they work by lowering the magnet to the table when you use the handle. But with steel on top the magnets will stick in the middle, between the table and the plate on top.
Actually they rotate a cylindrical magnet that has north down one side and south down the other. When you turn the handle to engage the magnet the magnet is aligned with the north to one side of the block, and south to the other. The two halves of the block are magnetically isolated from each other by aluminum or brass or some other nonmagnetic material. This causes the entire magnetic flux of the magnet to flow from one side of the block through the table to the other side, which holds it securely to the table.
When you turn the handle 90 degrees the magnetic north and south are at the top and bottom of the block, the magnetic flux is kind of short circuited because the sides of the block are both touching both north and south. The flux travels entirely within the block and it is easy to lift it off the table.
When he screwed the steel plate on top and engaged the magnet about half of the magnetic flux went through the table, the other half went through his new mounting plate, greatly reducing the force holding it to the table.
Incidentally, many permanent magnets, especially older ones before the rare earth magnets became common, need a magnetic keeper across the poles to prevent the magnet from losing its magnetism. This is why the horseshoe magnets that used to be used in science class had an iron bar across the ends when they were stored. This piece of iron or steel that shorts the magnet out is called a magnet keeper.
In these lifting magnets, and in magnetic chucks on surface grinders etc. when you disengage the magnet the chuck body itself acts as a keeper. If you disassemble them and leave the magnets in a position where the poles are not bridged by a magnetic material they can lose their magnetism. That is why these types of devices should be stored in the off position whenever they are not stuck to something.
This is also why many older magnetic devices like flashlights and magnetic tool holder bars have what looks like two steel rails down the sides of the magnet. The magnet is actually north or south on the exposed face, and the other pole is on the back. Those steel rails are actually the edges of a steel plate that touches the magnet on the back face, but not on the sides, creating a magnetic circuit when you place it on a ferrous metal object. If these devices are left unattached to anything (like a flashlight in your glove box) they may also lose their magnetism.
The modern rare earth magnets like the neodymium ones that are used in most devices now have much higher magnetic persistence, and generally do not suffer from noticeable loss of magnetism, however if you do create a complete N to S magnetic circuit with one of them they will greatly increase their holding strength.
The older magnets can be remagnetized if they lose their magnetism using an electromagnet type device that exposes them to very strong magnetic fields, and in fact the same device can be used to reverse the North-South poles in the magnet.
I wonder if you could customize "The Grabbo" so you could mount this tool in other non magnetic locations if need be.
Just curious as to why you didn't use heavy gauge aluminum?
Wakodahatchee Chris
And put another magnetic base side by side and an aluminium plate to bolt both bases together?
What kind of countersink bit is that?
I wonder if a magnetic chuck turned upside down would do the same thing for you and not be touchy about the steel plate.
did the acrylic actually help or was it just the extra height of the "pedestal and arm" that gave more leverage which caused the magnet to let go easier than expected?
The acrylic easily made the magnet 2x stronger becusse of the isolation between the metal. The leverage added by the height was fine
@@MakeEverything Thanks mate. Subscribed!
That’s so fuckin cool
I was surprised that you made an acrylic spacer. I was expecting you to redo it out of aluminum.
I was thinking you were going to remake the plate out of aluminum.
I looked around my shop for a nice piece of aluminum to use but didn't have one on hand, I think the acrylic will do nicely though.
What if you made the plate out of aluminum then you wouldn’t need the acrylic
2:15,,,Its a HELICAL tap, not a SPIRAL tap
yum
👍👍
. WOW'
what is it'
what does it do'
LOL Naaaaaaaa it's great 👍
Lol ya goofy m8te from Australia 😆
The holes in the plate affect the magnetic flux. This limits the magnetic strength.
Now the weak link is the screws.
*fixes title* " How i made an adapter plate!"
I made a $2300 bong from a $1 bottle
Just because it bends doesn't mean it'll break
They make a magnetic drill already u can buy for the price of your magnet and save yourself all the work
This is not a magnetic drill.
Making a $2300 tool for $120 - wait! You need thousands of dollars on other tools to save a couple bands. Bleah!
First viewer
Nope, I'm first!
Neither one of you have a life, do you?🤣🤣🤣
@@brucemitchell5637 I came before you
@@MSJONESBLOUNT nope., I'm first!
@@brucemitchell5637 I came 5 seconds before you came
I thought this video was really xxx, learning about things like xxx really seems to xxx the audience. Xxx/xxx content in my opinion.