Replacing Cylinder Head Gasket - 2002 Dodge Caravan 3.3 - P2
Vložit
- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- This is the second in a series of four videos where I show the steps I took to replace the head gaskets in a 2002 Dodge Caravan with a 3.3 engine. I ended up replacing both of the heads. I tried to show all of the steps from disassembly through cleaning and reassembly.
I hope you find it helpful. If you have any questions about the steps I took you can post a comment and I will answer as soon as I can.
Thank you so much! I had no idea what that part was also the plenum I was looking all over the Internet mine is caked with carbon so thank you again
Very good video. I am about to start this job today on a 2006 Town & Country that overheated and now I have low compression and misfire on cylinder #3. I am confident it warped the head and damaged the fire ring. You gave me an idea about pricing rebuilt heads vs dropping mine off at the machine shop. Thanks!
Recently had a 3.8L misfiring on two cylinders per OBD scan. Tech sent heads to machine shop and there was warpage 😮
wow your cylinder heads look great. Mines has to be cleaned. It's strange because the rest of the engine is clean. I'm changing the head gaskets on my 03 grand caravan right now, with the 3.3 liter engine.
Ty ty
How much you want to bet that the "coppery looking" head has less PCV valve ventilation than the front one..... I see it here on GM engines. One valve cover vents to the other one, and the other one vents to the intake. The one that vents to the intake will be better than the one that doesn't...... causing more crap buildup that gives you the copper look.....
Interesting. I never thought of that. Makes sense now that you mention it. Thanks for that.
Where is part 1? Found it😊
I was looking at Alldata and it says after 1/4 turn torque should be over 90 ft-bs. I used new felpro bolts and I checked one out of curiosity and it was less than 90 ft-bs. Have you ever checked one? i tried a different torque wrench and same result.
5:07 How did you get that bottom crossover pipe bolt removed? Do you remember whether it was a wrench or socket? What was your trick?
Man I can't remember for sure. The van is not here right now or I would look and it might jog my memory. I do remember that when I put it back on I had to take it off again for some reason. I did something out of order I think. I'm pretty sure it was not fun. Wish I could tell you more. Good luck.
@@Alan_Edwards I think you later said you got it from underneath. I could not get it to break free when I tried from underneath. Eventually I got it from up top. I removed the trans cooler dipstick tube, manifold heatshield and unbolted the manifold. Now the whole thing moved enough for me to get a swivel socket and extension on it. The exhaust system is the most time consuming part of the job for me. I just got the manifolds back in place on the rebuilt heads today.
Yep the exhaust was a real pain in the butt. I kept trying to avoid it, but in the end it has to come out. Even the four bolts that hold it to the main pipe ended up having to come out if I remember. Sounds like you're moving along well. That 3.3 is a solid motor. I had issues with the radiator too. Not sure if it's a factory thing, but it's easy enough to replace. I should have done a video on that since I had to do it twice. One other factory issue is the pipe that comes out of the water pump and attaches to the lower hose or maybe it comes out of the block? It rusts out so be aware of that one too.
I removed the heat shield and the headbolts were right there
The bottom crossover pipe bolt was hell. It took me three days to figure out how to get it off, and honestly, it was my wife who managed it in the end. You have to get the car up off the ground sufficiently and get under there. There's not enough clearance next to the bolt even for a socket. I recommend using a simple box-end wrench to break it loose -- AND you have to find a way to get enough torque on it. We also repeatedly soaked it with Liquid Wrench, which is one of the most effective products to use.
So I recommend using a six-point closed-end wrench. These are rather hard to find. None of the regular stores have them but you can order them online. Why six-point? So you greatly reduce your risk of rounding the head of the bolt off. My wife was braver than I was and used our 12-point ratchet, and got it -- but she ran a real risk. If she had rounded it we would've had to pay someone to get it out. I actually talked to a few local shops before she dared her attempt. I only found one shop that would do such a thing, and they were going to charge something like $250.
We really should've at least waited until we could get a six-point box-end wrench, but she was impatient. Fortunately, it worked out.
In retrospect, it MAY be possible to remove a bunch of hoses up top and maneuver the rear exhaust manifold out of the way just by disconnecting it from the catalytic converter and shifting it around still attached to the pipe. If I were doing the job again, I would DEFINITELY consider at least trying that before trying to get that bolt off. If someone tries it, it would be interesting to hear the result.
3:24 dirty one likely a leaky fuel injector giving it too much fuel and burning rich.
I just heard you say that the gasket was warped. If that gasket was warped then that gasket is blown and that head is warped because water or oil can pass through it if it was warped.
+Clyde Yamasaki Yeh you're probably right. Since I did the job the engine has been running great. Better than when I got it for sure.
Thanks for comment.
lots of wd-40 and let it soak.
How hard is it to replace cylinder head on a 96 Dodge Caravan
I would imagine it is a very similar process. Just go slow and keep track of the order in which you take things off. Take a lot of pictures. Good Luck!! AE