My Snow Blower Won't Start | Troy-Bilt, Cub Cadet, Craftsman, MTD
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- čas přidán 19. 10. 2018
- A quick video showing you how to remove the fuel from an MTD snow blower that won't start.
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Thank you so very much Paul! I fixed mine in a few minutes by using your tip! It bothered my for two years! Much appreciate it! Have a happy holiday Sir!
Just wanted to say thanks! Draining and adding the seafoam worked like a charm!
Thank you for this video! You have a friendly and easy to follow way of explaining things. Much appreciated!
My 3 year old snow blower wouldn't start. Realized I had left some gas in it, but didn't think that could be the problem because I used high octane gas (no ethanol) & stabilizer last winter. Tried your suggestion and that solved the problem. What a relief. Thanks so much, Paul!
Hey Paul thanks for the amazing video!! I'm pretty sure I have the same exact snow blower that you have there, just bought it 2 years worked like a charm!! Last winter I filled up the gas tank but had no snow so just stored it away, thought nothing of it. And this past week I have giving up trying to get it to start. I found this video while actually trying to look for spark plugs! And I must say thank you thank you sir I tried all of your techniques and it worked like a charm!!
Thanks! The simplest fix worked; I was pushing the primer with leather mittens on and thus not covering the hole. Mittens off, finger on and ... presto! She started. Thanks!
Thank you so much Paul. Your video worked for me, and saved me so much money. I didn't think it worked because when I removed the gasoline, and then took bolt off bottom of carbonator and so much yellow gasoline came out it took three 24 oz plastic water bottles to collect the gasoline. I then waited 30 minutes and tried to pull start it but it would not start. I then tried it two days later with the electric starter and it started right up some white smoke came out like you said and it ran perfectly. I am so grateful Paul thanks wholeheartedly for sharing this video!
Thank you for this great video! I have a Craftsman snowblower that wouldn't start. I drained the gas just like you said and added fresh gas with a fuel stabilizer. The snowblower started on the first try!
Thanks SO much. I started the motor a couple of times this Summer and it started easily. Today when I needed it, no dice. I removed all the gas from the tank and carburetor per your instructions. Added Seafoam and freshly pumped gas. It started! Thanks again.
It worked! Thankfully I was able to do it without draining the carburator as my set up is a bit different due to my machine being an older model. But I got it running! So glad my wife found this. Thank you!
You're a lifesaver! I did exactly what you said (drain gas, add fresh gas & 4 tbsp of seafoam) and a half-hour later, it worked!
I had tried everything else already, was ready to take it in, and then I saw your last trick with the drain bolt and let some gas flow out (with a full tank because I already drained the gas and replaced it) and it started in one pull! THANKS!
Hi Paul Nice Videos.
I do these things with a small variation. I run it a bit before I drain it. Then once my tank and fuel bowl are empty I try to start it a couple of times to be sure there's absolutely no fuel in the jets to gum things up. It does run for a few seconds even after the bowl is drained.
My blower is a 2006 1128 and the fuel bowl has a push button drain. It's very convenient.
Thank you for your video, sir!! Snowblower wouldn't start, so I tried new sparkplug. No luck. Saw your video, used your method(turkey baster to drain old gas), drained carb, put new gas in and it started right up!!! You saved me money and a trip to the repair shop! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!
Thank you for your video. I stored my blower this past February, put Sea Foam in it and ran it a bit before I shut it down. Went to go check it out today for the up coming snow season and no start. Pulled the spark plug cleaned it put it back in still no start. So did your recommended fix emptied the fuel tank, drained the fuel bowl and went and bought new gas. Tried to start it again and it fired right up. Even blew out some blueish white smoke all is good. You just saved me trip to the repair shop that I am sure would try to sell me a new carb etc.
Thanks. Worked like a charm in craftsman snowblower. Drained old gas completely by unscrewing and opening the drain screw and then added fresh 92 fuel and then snowfoam. Blower started in one try. Blower is few years old but rarely used in 2 winters.
Snowfoam. 😊 I know what you meant, of course, and it's obvious why you had snow on your mind. I do that kind of thing all the time.
Thank you for your video. I followed it last winter, drained the carburetor and was able to start my Cub Cadet 3X. At the end of last Winter (2019-20), I ran my snow blow dry and stored it in my garage. Just today, I wanted to prepare for this coming Winter and to see if it could be started. I put in fresh gas with Startron but could not start it just like last season. I appreciate your advice.
I have a PowerSmart snowblower 8 years old never had a problem starting or clearing my long driveway of snow. To eliminate ethanol I always add a little gas stabilizer or Sea Foam to the gas tank. After the winter season is over I let the snowblower run until it burns out all the fuel. Sold the old PowerSmart and purchased a new PowerSmart with the 250cc Briggs and Stratton engine. Very powerful snowblower throws snow a long way. The carburetor is the key component on gas snowblowers it is paramount to use stabilizers to keep them free of ethanol. Thanks Paul for all your very good advise.
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I did everything you said and it worked.
Thank you so much! We’ve got a forecast for 8 inches tomorrow morning, so I went to get my blower running and, sure enough, it refused to start. I tried your solution and it started right up!
Worked like a charm! Thanks for the help and great video
Quick and simple. Thank you for this video.
I like to store mine dry. In the Fall, I do a half oz of Seafoam and a shot glass of fuel to give the carb a good cleaning. Then, filler up with fresh gas.
Thanks much .. took the Baster and wrench put in fresh gas . Started right up ! Took 10 minutes
Did what you said to my non working snow blower…and it worked. Thank you sir.
Thanks for the tips. Worked like a charm!!
I would just add that after couple days of "Sea Foam" or "Mechanic in a Bottle" soaking in carburetor, snow blower did Not start...Until I Re-Drained the carburetor as the video shows at beginning. Now, with non-ethanol gas ($27/can) able to get into carb, engine started up (Electric start button) with a smoky vengeance. After about 10 mins. of Backfiring, things went back to normal! Thank you, Sir! I semi feel normal again!
Thanks for the excellent video. I need to get some seafoam. I tried to start a brand new snowblower that has never been used... but it's been sitting (no gas in it) for a couple of years. I am going to try again today and spray some carb cleaner into the spark plug as well. I thought leaving it with no gas in it was the best thing so the fuel didn't go bad. I guess I should have at least started it every year. If it doesn't start when I pull the spark plug, I'm going to bring it to a shop. I don't think I want to try replacing the carburetor.
Much thanks. Great tips. Worked like a charm.
This is the answer. Thanks Paul, my snowblower started right up.
Tip worked for me. It probably saved me a ton. Thank buddy
I have a 1-year-old Cub Cadet 2X snow blower that ran great from the store and was running fine when I ran all the gas out of it at the end of the first season. I never had a problem with this procedure in the past with any engine at the end of the season. This week we tried to start it and it turned over fine, but the spark plug was dry. I drained the first gas out of the tank and the carburetor bowl, mixed up some Seafoam with gas in a 1 Seafoam to 2 gas ratio, and tried to start it again to pull the mixture into the carburetor. No start. The next day, however, it started on the first try. Thanks for the direction in getting the carburetor opened up and my machine back on line.
Thank you. I followed you video. Started on 2nd pull after cleaning carb. Again thxs. Saved me $$$$$$
i put star tron in my ariens 11.5 v snowblower started up on the first pull that stuff is very good
That's it Paul. Thank you for sharing this video with the world.
I did this, saved me hundreds in repairs. It took a little more than what's shown here. I removed the fuel, added a little fuel to the tank and removed that to rinse the tank and drained the Carb. Filled gas tank and added with four Tablespoons Seafoam.Wouldn't start, re-drained the Carb. and replaced the spark plug. Now it would run for fifteen seconds. Let it set, tried again and found out I could keep it running by pushing on the primer every 15 seconds. Finally it would run on full choke, let it set. Tried again, had problem with starting the auger, and it not dying. Let it set. Got it started again left on full choke easing a load on it. Today I cleared 9" of wet snow, with no problem. Just have to have patience, and let it set after running to a full warm up.
Thank you. Helped a lot.
Most valuable tip: when priming, make sure your finger covers the hole in the bulb/button. That was all I needed, thanks!
When priming, the thumb covering the hole was all I needed to do, like another guy in the comments section. Thanks be to God for that
Thank you sir, god bless happy new year.
Thanks! Worked like a charm.
Great info, Paul! This is my next step if the fuel stabilizer doesn't work...
My understanding is that fuel stabilizer only prevents the fuel from going bad in the first place; it can't do anything to fix already-bad fuel.
This helped me thank you sir!
Thanks! My only comment is that siphoning did not work because I believe I had moisture in the area of the carburator. However, completely draining the fuel by unscrewing the bottom bolt did work, as the moisture drained out the bottom. I then filled the gas tank with high octane fuel and it started right up.
Great video thanks
Great video
Thank you! 👑
I have a similar Troy Bilt just like the one in the video, and same situation - first winter it didn't start up. The trick worked - drained the gas, seafoam helped but still would still die after a couple seconds. I tried adding a bit of fuel additive and it started right up. Also, for my drain bolt I had to use a 10mm - the 3/8 inch wouldn't fit for this model. But thanks for the tips, it saved me a lot of time and money...we have a big snowstorm coming in tomorrow morning. :)
Sorry, I have a MetWrinch tool set that handles both with one wrench. I keep forgetting to mention all of these engines are metric no matter what I say in the video...
What type or brand of fuel additive?
I like what you do
That worked! Thank you
Nice job explaining this. Most videos like this are so full of unnecessary drivel that I turn them off in the first few seconds.
Use a 10 mm socket or wrench for everything. 3/8” can strip some cheap or over tightened bolts.
Usually if it'll run at all seafoam will fix it. For 10 years I've been storing equipment by siphoning off what fuel I can and propping the unit towards the fuel line then run the unit until it stalls. I try to run seafoam in the first tank of fuel for the year and stabil in my last tank.
Hi Paul, great video! I just wanted to say that I haven't had any success yet, but will try your steps out this coming week. I own a Cub Cadet 2-stage snowblower (approaching 3 yrs). The design setup of your MTD is pretty much on par with the setup of the Cub Cadet which will make things easier for me to navigate around. I haven't been able to start it this winter and suspect it's because I left half a tank of gas sitting in it over spring, summer, and fall. I'm gonna grab some Sea Foam from Canadian Tire and see if that helps to clean things up a little. I'll post a reply to this comment if it starts or not.
So I give this a try but was unable to get the Cub Cadet running. It ran for about 3-5 seconds and the died and hasn't started again. A lot of lessons were learned from this video, so thanks again for sharing these tips.
Well, I'll be damned! I tried electric starting the snowblower this morning and....it started! I let it run for a few minutes, stopped it, and then tried again using the starter rope, and...it started again. Thanks Paul!
Great video! I am having this exact issue. Engine cranks on electric start but doesn't turn over. I removed the fuel but need to change/replace oil. Maybe check/replace spark plug too.
thanks for this video because my Troy built 34 inch does not want to start and I only used it twice last year and I bought it last year... what a bummer that I have to go through this already I'm sick of these earthly problems... I'm already on dialysis, diabetic, eye sight problems, knee problems and more I'm just tired of these problems in my life I don't know what I did so badly to deserve these problems 😞 oh well.
thank you
Have had this problem with my cub cadet, had to call in a guy to do it but now i will be able to do it myself. Water in fuel a bigger problem with cadet engines, have never had this with brigs motors. That said, another snow thrower i have, a sear that has a brigs motor, after running for a short while motor cuts out. Will not restart for a few min and no one can figure it out. I was told that maybe wires are ground out causing it to stall. If that is the case why would it start at all? Any way thanks for the vid a big help
I bought the same brand. Every winter l have issues to start it. So annoying!!! Hope this video will be helpful.
Always use Sea Foam when filling your gas can, and use even more than Sea Foam tells you too on the can. If your carb is plugged, clean or replace then always make sure you use a good amount of Sea Foam in every gas can you use for your snow blower. The right amount of Sea Foam will keep gas fresh for up to a year. I have been using Sea Foam for years, with good results. You really can't use to much Sea Foam. It's amazing stuff.
Spray a bit of seafoam into the carb from the drain plug. then a bit in a small amount of fuel into the tank. Next use..fill with fresh gas and starts right up.
Had the same problem of the blower not starting. I simply tipped it almost upside down to drain any ethanol/bad fuel in the lines. Then gave it a few more primes and it started right away. So before removing the carburetor, try this trick.
Hi Zim, I don't recommend tipping it upside down because the gas will make a mess, kill your grass and environmentally ruin the area it flows into. That said, it may also cause the oil to drain out of the engine or up into the valve area of the motor. That can cause the engine to hydro-lock when you start it and break the OHV parts.
Thanks Paul. Maybe not tip it too much. I did not see any fuel leaks when I tipped mine.
Thank you Paul great video
Thank you Paul. I have a troy-bilt snowblower and it doesnt start. I emptied gas, cleaned the carburetor (apparently the holes were not blocked) and added new gas. Now when I turn on using the electric start button, after few tries it starts and runs for few seconds (~ 5 sec). Before I turn the choke to run mode engine stops.
Snowblower is just 3 years old. Is there anything I should check like replacing spark plug? or service center is the only option? Any suggestion please?
My first guess is the primer bulb but I'm not a mechanic. I suggest checking out Donyboy73. czcams.com/video/1k50sCtD5gQ/video.html
Rpk, I also have a Troy-Bilt, and also just three years old, or so. I'm curious to know what you eventually found was wrong (if you've even used it since you posted). My amateur guess is that there was still some water or stale gas in the fuel line or the carburetor. I'm about to go drain mine with a siphon hose and then add fresh gas and maybe a bit of Seafoam. Fingers crossed.
Hey Paul how have you been. The shop I work in won’t take in for repair Troy Built, MTD, and new Craftsman snowblowers and others. Most of these newer models you practically have to take half the engine apart to clean or replace carburetor. Shops have hourly rates and repairs/ repair work would amount to getting a new machine. The job as I would say snowballs LOL into gummed up Carburetor and more because people don’t pay attention to using a better gas rating and some type of stabilizer. Even getting oil changes. Tons of people purchase from big box stores and don’t get the right information to go by dealing with small engines like on snowblowers. I will repair any small engine but I have to go with what the boss says. I do side work afterwards and will tackle any repairs.
Yes, the number one cause for a snow blower not starting is old/bad fuel. From listening to my readers most shops charge about $250 for a carb cleaning or replacement so spending $35 on a new fuel can, $8 on a can of sea foam and buying fresh gas every 30 days is money well spent.
Hey Paul, I enjoyed the video. I'm also a believer in Seafoam. I go one ounce per gallon when I fill the can. I was wondering how much you added last year. I go ahead and drain in the Spring because there are years i dont even need the blower.
Correction starting at 3:36 - the CZcams channel is "donyboy73", not "donboy73", and he has a lot of very helpful content on this sort of thing.
Thanks!! This helped a lot, I’m going to try it later today.
One question: does gas go bad sitting in a gas can? I have a plastic gas container that I filled up a few months back for my lawnmower, and am wondering if this is ok to put into my snowblower after I drain the old fuel (from last winter) out. Thanks!
If the can is sealed probably not. If you left the vent open or the cap off the spout put that gas in your car or truck (they don't care) and go buy fresh
@@PaulSikkema thank you!! It was sealed, so that’s good to know.
How do I remove the choke control knob (the RED one above the prime push)?
Very Very carefully. I would use two flat screwdrivers or something like that to lift the knob evenly from both sides. Don't be surprised if you break it and have to order a new one.
@@PaulSikkema Thank you for your reply. It might be the cold weather causing the plastic to bind tighter but I managed to apply force by hands and eventually got it off. I could not apply force with metal tools underneath the knob because the shield cover is plastic that the metal tools caused the plastic to bugle.
Do you have the full set of metrinches ? How are they? I remember the TV commercial years back.
Yes, I bought the full set back in the mid 90's. I've never broken one but i lost the 9/16 - 1/2 inch drive socket over the years. And, I did replace the 3/8 ratchet with an old fine-tooth chrome Craftsman. Otherwise they have been perfect. The 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 inch combo set does everything I need around the home. I like them so much I gave my entire 600 piece Craftsman set(s) to my son-in-law a few years ago.
Thanks for the video - You mentioned a more advanced CZcams site, which is "DonyBoy73" not "DonBoy73". You forgot the "Y".
Snowed, it started right up. As I moved the choke about a half inch it quit, now the dirty rotter won’t start. Any ideas? ( looks like yours)
Don't know. I suggest going over to DonyBoy73 czcams.com/users/donyboy73. He will have a video on your problem.
Every snowblower should have a fuel valve so you can run the carb dry if you are not going to use the machine for a while.
Yes, it should - or EFI
The carborator was replaced & told it does not need primed. It worked for a few minutes yesterday. But I csnt get it running today
It has a throdle & choke but no primer.
That's weird. A Troy-Bilt factory replacement carb will have a primer bulb. It appears your mechanic may have installed a lawn mower carb instead of a snow blower carb.
Octane booster works like a charm
Octane booster works well for starting in the winter. But, you can get the same benefits by keeping your fuel in a sealed gas can.
It's mid August, I know it's late , but I didn't drain the gas tank in the spring.
I cleaned the plug, hit the prime button, pulled the cord and it started right up.
Do I have to drain the gas tank?
If I start it up once a week till the snow gets here, would that be OK?
At this point I suggest. Go get a can of Sea Foam. Any store that carries automotive parts will carry it.
Put one tablespoon in the tank and then fill the tank with fresh fuel.
It will help to keep the fuel fresh in the system to start it every week or so until the snow flies.
The best thing to do is to run it dry before you store it for the off season.
My Storm 2625 didn't start yesterday, so I'll drain the fuel tank and carburetor tomorrow--thanks for the instructions. Another question, though. On my machine there's a yellow drain plug at the front lower part of the engine, over the front of the left wheel. What the heck is it for? The owner's manuals don't show it. I screwed it off and could see some liquid inside. Since you measure and add oil at the top and drain it out the back, it isn't for oil...am I missing something by not knowing what this left side plug does? Thanks!
It's an alternate oil drain hole. It may be plugged on the inside of the engine and that's why oil didn't drain out. These engine blocks actually go on many different types of equipment so having drain holes on each side is advantageous because they can mount the engine in different directions depending on the application.
@@PaulSikkema Thanks!
Just drained carburetor and replaced fuel with Seafoam additive, but it's still not starting. Next step would be to drain the carburetor bowl (the other screw)...can the carburetor or carburetor bowl (either of those screws) be drained without emptying the fuel tank, or do I need to siphon out all the fuel again (BTW, this unit is starting its third season)?
If you have a visegrips you can pinch off the fuel line. If not, you will have to drain the fuel.
Be very careful removing the carb bowl the rubber gasket is very fragile.
They did an experiment with fuel additives they took 87 % gas in and used 10 different fuel additives and let the engine sit with the gas and different additives for 19 months in all weather conditions to see if any of these additives worked by running the engines until they wouldn’t run Sea foam hung in there as one of the final 4 but the clear winner as far as fuel stabilizers only I think sea foam is not just a stabilizer but also cleans your engine however VP fuel stabilizer won and they dropped the bowl it was the only one that had absolutely no dirt or varnish in the bowl it Was crystal clear. I however just use non ethanol fuel with sea foam and at the end of the season empty the tank adding a little more stabilizer and run it dry then as shown empty the bowl and put that gas in my vehicle and buy new in the beginning of the next season, I think it’s better than having the issue of cleaning or replacing your carb.
Yes, there may be better fuel additives but SeaFoam works. Put 2 tablespoons per gallon when you go buy your fuel and don't worry about stale fuel.
The stanley-black&Decker (formerly MTD) engines do not have a fuel shut off so to run the carb dry you need to remove as much fuel as possible from the tank (a turkey baster works well) and then run the engine until it runs out of fuel. Most people don't do this so always having SeaFoam in the fuel helps.
Great video
I subscribed 👍
Before I do what u suggested, I have a 3x Cub cadet that I bought and used once 3 years ago. I let the blower run til empty and put it away. Went to use it the other day after 3 years, put in fresh gas and engine cranks but won't turn over/start. Someone suggested I spray starter spray above the carburetor bowl all up in that area around the carburetor (my setup looks just like yours, bowl/carb right above back left wheel). Blower should start right up. Thoughts? Do you think that will work?
No, that will not work. The carb intake is near the spark plug area and closed off so it won't get snow and water into it. You can't just spray starter fluid around the controls.
SAFETY FIRST! Starting fluid in very volatile and any backfire or spark from one of the switches will set it off. What's worse it's petroleum based so when it gets on all that plastic it burns very hot and quickly melts the carb covers, the carb, the switches and the wires. You won't be able to put it out in time. Trust me on this. I burnt up a Troy-Bilt Arctic Storm because I tried to use starting fluid.
(It used to work when the carb and housings were all metal)
@@PaulSikkemaok - can I spray the fluid into the carburetor via the drain plug on the bowl perhaps, using the needle thin straw the can comes with?
I've never had any luck doing that way. You might try carb cleaner though. Spray it into the drain hole and leave it sit 10 minutes. The spray it again and let it all drain out. Put the plug back in, let the gas fill the bowl and then try to start it.
Hope you can help me. I can't afford a shop. My 7.75 Model 536.887750 was stored under a tarp for 2 years and not used. It won't start. It's around 15+ years old. Here are the particulars.
1. New plug gapped to .030. I am getting spark during start up
2. New gas.
3. I'm using the electric start.
4. Fuel is blowing Out of the carb during start up.
5. Exhaust has no fuel accumulating in my hand.
Any ideas?
I'm not a mechanic but here are two resources that may be able to help. The members over at www.snowblowerforum.com . Go to the Craftsman section and ask. If you know what's wrong and want to learn how to fix it czcams.com/users/donyboy73 has the best videos.
I'm trying to figure out what type of gas or if there is an oil mixture I need with it but i cant find my model snowblower online. Hoping it's going to be a general gas or mixture?
You didn't state what snow blower you have. That said, 2-stage snow blowers built in the last 10 years will run on 87 Octane up to E10
It is a Troy Bilt 2410 so I'm reading on google but maybe im bot understanding if its calling for regular gas and 5w30 oil or a mixture of both?
Gas, 87 octane, E10 or less, goes into the fuel tank (Big red cap on the top of the snow blower)
Oil is checked using the yellow cap on the top of the snow blower. If it is low add 5w30 as needed.
Here is a video on changing the oil czcams.com/video/9K1w1Hbpks8/video.html
Search youtube for other videos about other maintenance tasks to do.
The site he's talking about is donyboy73
Good day Nice video. I noticed your wheels, they are plastic, are they better than rubber. Here in Ont.Canadian Tire sells different models some had plastic & some had rubber Thanks
Hi Don, The rims are actually metal on this snow blower. The paint is so shiny it does make them look like plastic. The treads are rubber like a normal tire.
They are rubber on metal airless tires. They work great! If you can get the damn thing to start!!
TL;DR: drain the gas by unscrewing the bolt and let it run dry. Replace it with fresh gas + seafoam. I'm heading out to the store to get some and hopefully this works!
These new blowers seem to have this problem because they are making the needle and seets out of cheap materials and get sticky easier, I have a Columbia blower that's about 20 year old and I use high grade gas with stabilizer and never have had any problems starting each winter seasons, sad to see these problems with the newer blowers nowadays
You do know why the needle and seats are made that way today? It's not the manufacturers - it's the government's severe emissions requirements that are the cause. The only way to remedy the problem is to switch to EFI but that adds $200-300 to the cost of the small engine.
@@PaulSikkema thanks I didn't know that but I'm not surprised, I guess it's best to run it completely out of gas at the end of winter
i store my ariens full of gas and 2 ounces of seafoam. starts right up every fall for me with no problems...ever...
Hi Paul, can the sea foam just be added to the existing gas or does the gas need to be drained then sea foam added to fresh gas?
Yes, pour in 2 tablespoons. It mixes on it's own
@@PaulSikkema thanks Paul for the info
What is Seafoam and where can I find it
Hi Ken, Here's a link to their site. seafoamsales.com/auto/. You can find it almost everywhere including WalMart and auto stores
@@PaulSikkema thank you!
I TRY TO FIND THE CABURETOR FOR TROY BILT 2860 HUAYI 175SC BUT I CAN'T find
Hi wilvestylo, You need the model number and serial number from the nametag on the back of your transmission case. Then. Go to troybilt.com and click on the parts & support tab. You can order a new carb there.
Thanks im going to try looking for it
Thing scared the $hit out of me after it started! Think that ignition key may've been corroded a little? Started right up! Thank!
What if you get no sound when using the electric start?
Make sure the extension cord you are using is good and that there is power at the outlet it's plugged in to.
Use kitty litter to clean up the fuel, oil etc.
Use the non-scented stuff or buy regular oil dry from the auto store. The scented stuff stinks when you use it on oil.
Don't over prime. The less you prime the better.
Biggest problem folks have is not draining the fuel out. The older machines had a fuel drain. If you want a problem free unit drain the fuel out. Question on the new model toros do they have a fuel tank drain. Thanks
The new Toros have the fuel drain on the carb just like the example in this video. Also the 928 and largerr have a fuel shut-off valve for those of us who prefer to leave fuel in the tank but run the carb dry.
The new Toros have the fuel drain on the carb just like the example in this video. Also the 928 and largerr have a fuel shut-off valve for those of us who prefer to leave fuel in the tank but run the carb dry.
The new Toros have the fuel drain on the carb just like the example in this video. Also the 928 and largerr have a fuel shut-off valve for those of us who prefer to leave fuel in the tank but run the carb dry.
Paul Sikkema I was hoping the fuel tank had a drain you think they will almost all problems are due to bad fuel. I use stable all the time but it’s not the answer. I like your videos I had really bad luck with ariens. Ariens always started for me never let me down that way only performance I had 2 ariens seems like out of balance can’t handle deep snow. Other people I talked to same situation with ariens. Been watching toro units like what I see. Thanks
Hi Nick, If Stabil is not working for you I suggest switching to K-100 - amzn.to/2Kfjh0I
Donyboy73 has a video showing how well it works.
If you have not owned a 2016 or newer Ariens Deluxe, Platinum or Pro you will be amazed at how well they throw heavy, wet snow. That said, I really like how this Toro throws snow also.
I simply let the gas get low then pump the remaining gas into my mower. Then run the snowthrower(Ariens) until all the gas is used up. My Ariens is 12 years old now and it starts right up! Never any additive!!!!!
to get to the carburator, what did you have to remove to get the access?
If you want to replace the carb I suggest searching CZcams for a video about that. If you are only taking off the carb bowl the easiest way I've found is to tip the snowblower up on it's nose and the bowl is easy to see and remove.
If you are using Ethanol fuel? That is the problem. My small engines always starts on the first or second pull. I never use ethanol fuel and never will.
Even with non-ethanol fuel I still suggest a sealed fuel storage can and a fuel stabilizer
The only place I can buy no e fuel is at a marina, and they are closed in winter! So stabilizer is key! My boat is always no e 90. My lawn equipment runs like my car 10% e. It sucks.
Paul, you mentioned you can pour that old, watery (maybe gummy) gas into your car or truck; they don't care. I know you're not a mechanic, but are you sure, and what's the reason for that? Is it just because it's so diluted by the large volume of gas? Or maybe because there's at least four cylinders in a car?
My main reasoning is that you don't have to take it to a hazardous waste facility. If you only have a gallon or less putting it into your car's tanks will dilute it. And since your car and truck use EFI instead of a carb it will compensate for the poor gas.
I thought if you put fuel stabilizer in it it gets rid of the water and lasts over 6 months..
It depends on the fuel stabilizer. In general, fuel stabilizer will keep water from settling to the bottom of the fuel tank and corroding your carburetor.