Ask Adam Savage: How to Weather Leather
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- čas přidán 23. 04. 2022
- Tested member Justin Ashcraft asks if Adam has any weathering tips for leather, which indeed Adam does! Thank you for your question, Justin! Join this channel to support Tested and get access to perks. like asking Adam questions:
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C.G.I.
Yo, if you use the steel wool approach you gotta make sure to tape off any magnetic buttons that your item may have. The little steel stubble that inevitably comes off the steel wool when you rub it will now stick to the outside of the tape instead of getting lodged into any nooks of the buttons where you can't get it out. After you're done you'll wanna put another piece of tape over the already covered button to seal in the metal before peeling the whole mess off.
All good advice given with limited details given in the query. Especially the curb-stomp. The best post-apo weathering is done by removing the metal furniture, tying it to a bicycle and dragging it through gravel/dirt roads for a few minutes. "Always creep up on it" is the best advice since Mary Schmich's "always wear sunscreen".
My (Dutch born) mother was a barmaid in the Australian outback, back in the 60s. She has a great old Akubra hat that was given to her by her boyfriend (a road train driver) and his friends. They felt it wasnt right to wear a 'new' Akubra that hadnt seen work so they ran it over with a road train for her.
Thats a heck of a genuine weathering method XD.
My Aussie brain: ... a road train? Oh a semi/truck! Ha
@@Xtafa no, a road train has at least 2 full trailers behind it, they can be up to 60 metres long and up to about 200 tons these days. Most are 3 trailers, theres up to 6.
Theyre the largest road legal vehicles in the world.
@@mycosys And absolutely terrifying when they overtake you, or go screaming past in the opposite direction! And this is from someone who worked in rail freight, standing by the tracks as a fully-laden 40 wagon grain train rumbled past, as you wait for the drivers to set up the train for tipping the following morning.
Yep, the large-small truck is a B-Double.
What an awesome story. ❤
"... all of those [types of leather] yield different kinds of weathering techniques" is a view into the mind. Seeing material as inspiration without being tied to an end result is a liberating practice.
I had a leather jacket that was too stiff, and it was summer, so I didn't need for a while, so I just threw it on my garage floor and kicked around every now and then came out perfect
Leather cleaner from a shoe shine kit can pull out some die in a nice slow and gentile way and shoe shine creams and oils can also add dark layers back in. Haven’t used it to weather but i was trying to even out water damage. That said it can be your choice how you want to move it. The moisture and oils can also soften if part of the problem is its a new and very rigid piece that you want to feel more broken in.
90% of all leathers on the market from bags to sports cars has a layer of paint that is clear coated to keep the color vibrant. While they are dyed as a base, the paint layers is what your degrading. Oiled leather like cowboy boots or saddles are tanned and oiled/waxed and put into service. Hope that helps.
I had a pair of Doc Martins years ago that were incredibly stiff and causing blisters in one spot in particular. I found a video on how they created their "worn in" boots. One of the steps involved folding the boot over a steel block and pound it with a big hammer. So I did the same and it worked perfectly.
Above all when working with “leather”: BE SURE IT IS ACTUALLY LEATHER! There are some very convincing faux leathers now (example: the 300 dollar jacket that I just had to convince my friend not to buy because it wasn’t actually leather. “But it’s so soft! Like butter.” “No!”) so if possible look at the stitching and back of the “leather” if you see a almost knitted mesh on the back or woven into the “leather” it is not leather! And any scuffing of it will lead to blowout (a nasty almost snake like sloughing off of the outer finish) and you would be better served with dyes and paints. If it is actually leather then and only then proceed with the scuffing!
An actual leather product will take abuse after abuse and laugh at you. A fake leather product (that is supposed to be so much better for the environment and the animals (a different argument all together and one not appropriate for here)) will deteriorate in a fraction of the time and add to a dump after, there is almost no way to save it and no way to reuse it.
The take away: BE SURE IT IS ACTUAL LEATHER!
Lol I've seen so many people think they are wearing actual leather. Then I check the tag.🤣😂🤣😂
Yes, my mom does leather bags from skins she gets from hunted animals and its crazy to see the abuse they can take.
This is vital advice. So many time I see people buying faux leather to make a cosplay and I always say "if you care about your work and don't plan on trashing it after a couple of wears use quality material and that includes real leather."
Even if you hang a costume in a closet and don't touch it for years the next time you pull it out the faux leather will be dust and be unsalvageable.
I was actually at the plant that made the "fake leather" patch on the back of a lot of bluejeans. It is in deed paper. Treated to look like leather, and it lasts a long time, for paper. But real leather would probably outlast the actual pants themselves.
But hey, it's much cheaper than using actual leather.
I only buy saddle back leather goods now. They are actually made from real leather, and are built to last. I used to go through a leather wallet every 5 years or so. My current saddle back has lasted 11 years at this point, and looks better now than when i bought it. This is how you do sustainability. Make shit that lasts.
The experiences of animals are real and matter. Their suffering is identical in nature to your own. If you would not do it to your own child, do not do it to any other vulnerable creature. Cruelty and violence are wrong.
The Indy jacket was made by Peter Bowright who owned Wested Leather until his death. I’m lucky enough to have two custom jackets that he made for me in my size from the original Raiders patterns. He also made the leather costume pieces for the Harry Potter franchise. Herbert Johnson made the hat. I am also lucky enough to own one of these.
They weren’t the original Raiders pattens. Just like Herbert Johnson doesn’t have the original blocks from the original trilogy anymore
This is awesome, made my day!! Thank you, I'll send pics when it's done. :)
as a recent beginner leathercrafter this is awesome. Ive been lightly sanding the leather with scotchpad and then coating the face with tokonole with some rough canvas. It burnishes the face nicely to give it that worn patina.
Also tried throwing it in a pillowcase and shaking it around with some random leatherworking tools like stitching irons etc to get some scratches all over it.
This is invaluable insight in how to approach a weathering job like this. Thanks for your perspective
I love learning new stuff. Thanks Adam!
If I may, you can artificially age leather without damaging or scuffing the surface by using a thick piece of felt or a felt pad and some beeswax. The friction of the felt combined with the beeswax will burnish a patina into the leather that is so realistic as to be nearly indistinguishable from natural wear and tear.
I like the kicking across the room method, it helps with daily life stress :)
Also, I don't work on this at all, but I've used normal sponges for different things and the green ones sometimes leave some green very small dots that are hard to take off. That's something you might consider before starting, so the tip of always starting with an unimportant part as experiment is always a good tip.
At 6:38 I do the same, creating a Mood Board for inspiration and guidance. Referring back to these reference photos as I go along helps keep the project looking real-world.
There is a great video by Tod Cutler of him weathering his leather dagger scabbards that sure could be usefull.
I ended up getting a really good leather coat which unfortunately was a maroon colour. I tried some isopropyl alcohol that I had and that got the dye out a treat, it's a good brown colour now. 🙂
I saw a cosplyer who started with wetting her leather down (veg-tan) and then scattering really coarse salt on it. We're talking BB-sized grains here. Then she ran over them with a rolling pin, shook the leather to shift them around, and did it again. It wound up with a lot of tiny imprints that were the starting point for her weathering process and carried through the whole thing to create a really neat texture.
I have weathered one of my wallets using rubbing alcohol. I am a leather crafter so I was not too concerned about ruining it so I went for it, but that along with leather dye worked for me. My 5 year old daughter was recently carrying a notebook in one of my leather covers and dropped it in the driveway and then accidentally kicked it along the driveway, this really added some nice weathering to it. So the floor is definitely worth a try. A good product to treat any scratches you are not happy with is Smiths Leather Balm, this really works well at hiding scratches, it does not take them away entirely but they are definitely reduced by it.
Spot on, as always. Leather can have surface coatings to make them scuff-resistant, so you certainly should try to remove that with solvents or elbow grease. Be aware that solvents may weaken the leather. Use a leather stain rather than a dye because they come pre-diluted. Otherwise you'll have to match the dilution agent with the type of dye (usually oil-based, water-based, or sometime solvent-based). You can get acrylic medium which you add to acrylic paint that makes it more leather-friendly; I have painted leather jackets like this, and they're still holding their paint 20 years later.
Adam, I am disappointed you didn't mention in the first 30 seconds... Water. Water, water, water. Water for wonderful things to leather. In a very natural way
Is this something you're skilled in? I'm curious, we picked up an high quality used couch for a great price, but my wife wanted a different color and it has almost a polished finish (we have the same brand chair and style, but it has a more natural leather feel without the scratch resistant polish or whatever). We don't like the finish, so I'm interested if we can, at minimum, get the finish off so it's more natural leather feel instead of highly polished and possibly change the color if that would be good to do all in one. I'm guessing the dye is all the way through (it's a grey blue) and she was looking for a more camel/sand color. Sound like it's worth the risk of altering?
@@teeemm9456 Upholstery leather is a bit out of my wheelhouse. It'll almost certainly be chrome tanned which won't take a regular leather dye. Oil dye might work, but I suspect you'll end up with unsatisfactory results and stains on your clothes every time you sit on it. But it would be worth talking to an upholsterer to see what they say.
@@merseyvikingThanks for the quick reply, I'll look into somewhere near me.
Completely agree with starting with a mechanical approach. Kick/tumble it a few times across a (smooth) cement floor. Press it unevenly against a brick wall and let it drag 1/4" or so. Drop it from 18" on its bottom corners on to concrete a couple of times. Spend some time rolling and twisting the shoulder strap while doing something else. The Scotchbrite/steel wool approach also does a good job breaking up the broad, flatter surfaces that might have too glossy of a look. Good luck!
I want to know wether weathered leather weathers weather better than unweathered leather.
Ah the English language, I may have spelled it wrong, but you understood what I said.
*the kicking about on the floor or down the steps would be a more organic technique along with dragging it across a gravel parking lot...a spray bottle filled with water between the layering also seems to be a good idea...also don't forget about the amazing textures of dirt and sand that can be found everywhere...to have such a project or opportunity along with OCD would produce amazing results*
If you have a dryer with an air dry/air fluff setting, fill the bag with a book so it’s stiffish and doesn’t ball up. I use an old cook book. And throw it in the dryer on the air setting. Let it tumble around. I found misting it lightly with water in spots you want more wear before throwing it in to be effective too.
For bags, I have always been a big fan throwing it across various surfaces, and brushing it up against brick and stone walls I pass. Mineral oil is great for adding patina.
Adam. I want to see you go visit an Antiques store or market. I feel like it would be amazing to see you explore old things and just look around. Also. Some of us live on the East coast, we have no idea what kind of stuff you have over there in the California area, so it would a beautiful thing to see what it's like for you compared to some of these eastern things.
Obenhauf's LP is a good way to start too. Bonus is it waterproofs the leather. I put some on a cheap pair of those almost yellow leather gloves and after applying the Obenhauf's and using the gloves for 10 minutes they look great.
Had luck with some leathers leaving them in sunlight to naturally darken…may not work with commercial products as a lot of them have uv blockers, but when it works, you get a beautiful color shift.
My personal favorite method is to soak or wipe the leather with rubbing alcohol, and then crumple or roll it to create creases and patches of worn spots.
If I want to make a “dark aging” effect, like it’s super dirty or just adding more texture, I’ll then use some leather antiquing gel rather than the liquid dye. It’s super thick and creates a lovely texture effect.
Should you condition the leather item to protect the underlying leather and weathering done?
Adam, I have been such a huge fan of yours since MB. I have been cosplaying for a bit, usually eva foam. It has taken me 2 years to get my Mandalorian kit to the point that I like it and am working on joining the MMCC. Its the first time I used Sintra plastic. I would love to send you some pics and get your feedback.
I work with leather and aside from all of what Adam said, an awesome way to weather leather is using some walrus/mink oil after scratching, which gives that shiny patina look, fine wire brushes for suede and 400 grit sandpaper for regular leather.
Adam, after seeing this video I love you even more and not just for the leather advice.
I'm looking to make brand new baseballs look used for a craft project...any advice?
Went searching for a way to distress leather safely and stumbled upon one of the single greatest craftsman of the generation explaining the process. Thanks algorithm.
I have boot covers made from polyurethane. Any idea if this will work on that?
I thought this would be a demo, but yeah can't really get into definitive instructions without understanding which type of leather it is. Personally, I prefer to patina through real use becuase it feels the most authentic.
Same. Also artificially weathering can weaken the leather itself if done incorrectly. If you need aged leather for a project you should always try to thrift old leather bags or coats and dissassemble them for material
if you take some bee's wax and rub with the green part of the sponge in natural leather
you can go darkening from the edge to the center controlling the pressure and get a very good effect
Cool idea how to age leather and such why is it really interesting
What I did after I bought me a new jacket I kept looking for a good used worn jacket I found an old one real nice just what I wanted and my new one is still in the garage cabinet today
Best way to weather leather coats or bags that always works for me, find a brick wall and start brushing the leather against it. It will give realistic scratches and worn patches. I found it out by accident and just went with it.
I'm sure you don't read ancient comments, but I would LOVE a thorough breakdown of different types of leather, like you mentioned in the beginning. Even after decades of collecting vintage insanly high quality Japanese (NOT Italian 🤮) horsehide leather jackets and boots and even though I can verbally explain the difference between chrome and veg tanned leather, I'm still repeatedly baffled at hearing a piece is "veg tanned" when I would have put money on it being chrome tanned. I'm at the point where I can't buy leather that i can't see and touch because I just don't know what to pick between all the options.
I used a sanding block for sheetrock work to distress my first Indy jacket, and that worked a treat as well! :)
I had a cpu case that i tried to weather and "spilling" some water or alcohol on it and then running my rolling chair over it worked wonders
Spending months researching how to weather leather. Justin’s leather bag naturally became weathered.
Peter Botwright of Wested leather made the jackets for raiders and last crusade. Herbert Johnson was the company that made the hats for the original three films, as well as dial of destiny.
Just wanted to make sure curious minds were pointed in the right direction
If I wanted a weathered leather case I would weather it using mechanical process to speed up the weathering of the material, however it is important to mention that leather age over time so eventually it is gonna look old.
So my advice is to keep using the case without to try to be extra careful and let time to do it's job.
Adam oh Adam, mentor figure since my homeschool childhood, this could not have been any more exquisite timing. I am currently in the putting together phase of making a Star Wars the Phantom Menace Obi-Wan Kenobi costume because I am going to be exact same age as Obi-Wan on Star Wars day that he was, and the Kenobi show is coming out this year!!! and I am about to dye three different textures of leather to match his boots, including a pair of exquisite leather boots I found on Poshmark and separate textures of leather scrap cast offs thank you thank you thank you and wish me luck me making all three of those match!!!!!!🤩😬🥰✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨
The 3:53 technique should I remove the laptop from the bag?
i adam i would like to know wich is the best leather for my grail diary leather cover in pork or cow leather for most realistic and which thickness for the cover leather thank you for awnser
Hi Adam, I have a set of (light tan colour - UK spelling!) leather Cowboy "Chaps" which I'm attempting to weather and give an authentic look to. I've already sourced a selection of concept images, so I know (sort of) where I want to go with this - the problem is how to get there!. I have some mid-brown dye and some rubbing alcohol - or should I blend dye with oil and carefully rub this in perhaps ?. ps Seems I'm a bit late to the party but I didn't know you were on YT, it's really great to see you here :o)
Another way to darken it. Use a felt pad and rub it on a tea candle then on the leather. I use a Dremel with the round felt pad. Real fast and real precise.
Cool, I am working on my second Indiana Jones Grail Diary, so need to do the cover better than the first.
After you kick it around the floor just spread a glob of "gel antique" from a leather store and it will work into the low spots to just make them darker and looks very natural!
Indiana Jones’ original jacket was made by Peter Botwright of Wested Leather in Kent, England.
Herbert Johnson of St James’ London was the maker of the original fedora.
Weather Leather is my favorite song from the neighbourhood
Simple:- wipe with acetone. Rub with sandpaper. Really easy
Use a coarse sand paper and remove 70 to 80% of the finish off most edges. Skuff leather object being aged where natural wear spots would appear from normal wear, elbows, shoulders, seams especially, belly, waist, wrists, etc. Scrub entire object with acetone, then charcoal lighter, a wire brush around elbows, etc. Scrape, scratch, and scuff in selected spots. Cover ALL zipper ends with silicone and let dry thoroughly. If aging a jacket, STUFF sleeves and body WITH tightly folded material like sleeping bags, blankets, or other such objects. Find someone with a small on-site concrete mixer. Most small contractors have one, brick masons, etc. Make the owner think you are crazy by making arraignments to spin your object to be aged in it! Place some sharp edged small gravel, sand, dirt, and pieces of broken concrete blocks broken up with a hammer in pieces no larger than a walnut. Coarse sand is good.Throw in a knotted shop towel wet with acetone. Turn on the concrete mixer. The small amount of dried concrete left over in the mixer will also help. Stop the mixer often and check your progress until you get exactly what you want. For a dry old desert, look wash thoroughly with charcoal lighter fluid and rub on the color of dirt of your choice, and let dry. Shake off and enjoy. For a classy well loved old friend look. After doing g all the above. Wipe off well with charcoal starter fluid and follow up with a very thoroughly rubbed in coat of Neats Foot Oil, and then let it soak in the sun all day on a hot day turning it over so all sides thoroughly soak the oil up.
Raiders of the Lost Ark jackets where made by Wested Leather. The Fedoras where made by Herbert Johnson.
Was about to write this!. I also think that costume designer weathering the jacket with a penknife is abit of a myth, In every shot the jacket is beautifully weathered by what looks like many techniques including sanding large patches(on back) that really would have to of been done on a person or a stand. Besides that it would take an experienced dye/breakdown assistant at least a full day per jacket to do what we see in Raiders.
You can still get this jacket from Wested. The movie jackets are not actually rugged and tough, but very supple lambskin. I've had mine for 20 years, which is certainly the BEST way to to weather a leather item. (as for being 'beautifully weathered' I'm not sold on this. I believe they just scraped and beat the crap out of it. Same for his shoes unless he was actually wearing his personal Aldens that he wore out on his own)
@@adventurepromo I too have a 20yr old Wested, went to Kent and was fitted by Peter himself. I weathered it the same as in Raiders, the wear patches are not from randomly beating the crap out of it. As a side note the accurate seam allowances make for a lovely even border around each seam after sanding. This can especially be seen on the sleeves and collar
@@multirevelator glad you've got it all figured out.
@@adventurepromo glad i could educate you
Old lady knew back when said what works best is trial and error, preference after that, what you have laying around, and last was drive over it with a truck on a gravel driveway.
If it's got a shiny top coat, I'd take care of that first with a very light wiping with alcohol or acetone. You don't have to get everywhere, since you're just weathering it. Don't worry about cracks or crevices that the weather wouldn't get to. From there, you could drag it around on concrete, run over it in a car, or walk on it. Splattering it with hydrogen peroxide or oxalic acid would give it some light patches. Diluted bleach will too, but you run the risk of it continuing to eat at the leather if you don't dilute it enough. Neatsfoot oil will darken it. Weather the fasteners too. Scuff them and wipe them with some ammonia to let them tarnish.
Ideally, it needs to be finished with a good leather conditioner to replace the moisture and the oils that the leather has lost during the weathering, but that in itself could undo a lot of what's been done. I say let it dry and develop some cracks over time. Then use the leather conditioner on it. Again though, it depends on how the bag is constructed. If I could get some leather conditioner inside, on hidden places that take a lot of wear (where it sits, where things might rub, the underside of pocket flaps or straps, etc..), I would definitely do that.
Also, if you own leather, treat it right. Clean it with saddle soap, and after it is dry, mink oil rubbed in will make your leather last longer. After all a cow died to make that leather, so treat it right so that it lasts as long as it can. Respect the source of the material.
Leather lasts longer if you keep it oiled, so that it doesn't dry out and crack. There are leather goods that have lasted for decades, but only because they were cared for.
I wonder if some of those techniques would work also on canvas bags?
Just my experience, but it seems there’s also a lot a canvas that is so contrived very little will work. With real canvas, coffee or tea has worked for me, but my trick for redishness, find an old ll bean tote bag with a red handle from a charity shop, put your canvas in the washer with the bag, presto!
@@Voirreydirector yeah, thanks for the tip. I was considering something like that, but didn’t know exactly what.
Hey Adam! How was Kansas City Comicon?!
I'm facing a challenge now, trying to "age" or "patina" a valuable leather item without actually distressing the surface. I've looked at what others have done, but I can't quite figure out the process used. I think it might be Liquitex acrylic paint, a lighter brown, to simulate wear.
TIL i'm taller than Harrison Ford...... hey u gotta have something XD
Is there an opposite word for occlusion?
The moment I heard weather leather I thought was put a piece of wood the size of the laptop in the bag and take it for a walk and kick it along the sidewalk or road. It puts great age on leather.
I like the Adam Savage technique, the Pseudo Indiana version....throw it on the floor and jump on it. I use that same technique for wethering leather for my projects. Its a great starting point.
When weathering props thing into the future. Design a process that pays attention to how a prop has been used. Things like where it will rub and creativity friction. Where it will be exposed to the elements. Where it’s exposed to the oils in your skin that touch the object. There are a lot of ways to create the effect. The most important thing is to give your prop it’s proper history. Dig deep. Do your research and above all think and pay attention to life.
Oh! THAT is the Magnum P.I and Indiana Jones link from Chip and Dale rescue rangers!
lol "420 big holiday for us" 😂
I believe the first Raiders jacket was a Nathans and Berman jacket, crafted (quickly, I might add) by Peter Botwright, the future owner of Wested Leather. Wested was then the company that continued to supply Indy jackets thereafter. :) Someone correct me if my facts are wonky! :)
Boatwritght's company was called "Leather Concessionaries" at the time.
I know this is not the question he asked, but if you have a leather, let’s say gun holster or bag in you’re looking to add oil to it I recommend using just simple Vaseline petroleum jelly put it on there let it sit for a day or two or three or four days and wipe off the excess, and now you have a lubricated leather that is waterproof and water resistantlove you MythBusters
The best way to weather leather is over a long period of time...Years, if you can spare it by simply using it normally. It creates the most realistic effect.
I think my way of weathering anything of leather is tieing it to a car or truck and just run the thing on the street around town!
I knew a guy that use to weather leather bags by hanging them up on a clothes line outside and beating it for a good while with a wooden baseball bat. Good workout too.
My sister tired her leather bag to the bumper of her truck and drove down a gravel road 😂😂
A year later, and nobody mentioned asphalt, or concrete as free abrasives to wear an item.
Herbert Johnson was the hatter. The Jackets were made by Wested Leather.
Avoid using alcohol as it can dry out your leather... IF YOU DO, Make sure that you use neats foot oil or some other type of conditioner to rehydrate any moisture that the alcohol may have taken out of your leather during the aging process
Whether to weather your leather is a matter of whether the leather was from a wether.
Adam... come on dude! Herbert Johnson made the Fedora. Leather Concessionaries AKA: Wested Leather made the Raiders Jacket. You know this!
With real leather that I don't mind distressing I use the technique of soaking an area with Rubbing Alcohol, then roughing it up with sandpaper. I'll scrub the item against bricks, strike it with files, anything to get it beat-up. I hit edges especially hard, and fold over corners etc. One tip: all of this makes the leather rough and dull HOWEVER keep in mind that areas which are often touched will have a buildup of oil from the hands and be a bit shiny. I rub beeswax over these high spots to simulate that.
I love when I search “how to do X” and Adam Savage comes up
Specifically for a laptop bag, or your EDC leather bag, I like some coffee stains, and the best way to replicate that is, well, coffee. Even in a well seasoned leather bag, it will leave it's mark. Am I addicted to caffeine? maybe. Do I like the look? Absolutely.
The most important thing is,,,, Whether to weather leather ?
Cool, now show me how to leather weather.
My name is Justin too and feels so weird to hear him suddenly say my name. Like I ask a question in my head and then he says my name as if replying lol
How much do you think the framing of this video was based purely on the fact that Adam wanted to show off his beautiful wooden hammer in the background not that I'm complaining lol.
I'm just gonna roll down a gravel pile a few times with my leather jacket and an old helmet.
I've been able to bleach _some_ leather with cream that contained peroxide.
But do NOT use chlorine: that will *kill* leather!
Masterclass with Adam Savage: Weathering Leather
As a prop and costume guy I certainly get there being occasions to weather leather, and I have. But for an item you're using every day in real life? Why not let it weather naturally?
Just be careful to stay away from the seams on that bag, so as not to wear down the threads! :)
My opinion ah a leathercrafter, maybe bend fold and work it a bit and then just use the thing. in a year its gonna look awesome!
Skeletons got a cool hat