I bought one and modified much of it to suit what I wanted. Main thing was to use drag chains for the cabling and also change the software to use LaserGRBL which is free and a thousand times better than what came with the machine. I do have an 80 watt CO2 laser that I used for doing jobs like name badges, engrave and cut, but I found that this diode laser actually does a better job and more easily too. I also added some changes to the laser output end by adding a 3D printed nozzle that carries a flow of air to the engraving area, this made the engraving far better and also cleared away the smoke generated. I ended up putting the whole machine inside a MDF case that has smoke extraction built in, red acrylic side panels for laser protection. In all, I would say that for the price it is a good start for building a cheap machine that is practical for many small jobs, but needs to be made safer. The laser coming on without warning is a worry, so the best way around that is to press the low laser button and leave it on while starting up the machine and also the computer. This button uses the laser in low level power for setting the focus and also for placing the work piece in position. When the software has been started and everything is ready for engraving, release the low level button and the laser will not start unexpectedly by itself then and only fire when the software instructs it to do so.
As a complete novice regarding engraving machines I want to thank you for pointing out the safety issues that need to be considered when purchasing such equipment, you may have just saved my sight.Thanks for the video and advice.
My A3 laser is a 2.5 watt model and I got it to cut 3mm Baltic birch plywood with a VERY slow speed, 100% power, 2 passes and also a change in firmware so I can control it with LaserGRBL! It works just fine and I even laser cut a PrintrBot 3d printer...
Yes, there are plenty of people that can find uses for the machine. For me, cutting several passes at a very slow speed just isn't what I'm looking for. I'm sure your edge on the cut isn't great, and it's really slow. For me, I'd rather spend a bit more money and get something that's a bit more usable.
I have the same machine and I am very pleased with it. I have over 90 plus hours of engraving and no problems. I use T2 Laser program and it is the best ever. I always use compressed air to blow away the soot at the end. This machine paid for itself at least 5 times. CO2 laser are great but you have more work area with this machine than you have with a co2 laser. They are also expensive to maintain like changing mirrors and the gas. Great video though
I have one of these and have had it for a couple of years. I like it sort of, but it was a 2nd had one and the laser isn't the factory one that was supposed to have came with it. It still does fairly decent. When I engrave wood with it, I wash it off lightly with water, let it dry, then clear coat it.
I have the same engraver and I agree with every conclusion you came up with. I have more luck engraving in wood than anything else but most of the time I'm engraving text onto pieces that already have a finish applied. The finish makes it much easier to clean off the residue that is left behind. I think there was a firmware update that was suppose to correct the issue with the laser starting out on full power when you turn it on. I don't seem to have that issue now but I still make sure to keep my hands away when I power it on.
I appreciate you putting this together. I have a CO2 and have considered one of these as a light engraver, as I've seen some great results in them. However, the points about plastic construction convince me that I should consider a better machine, as I don't mind constructing it once but high probability of the plastic stressing and breaking is something to consider if once is enough. Thanks again!
Just put this thing together for my girlfriends mom. After watching this video she doesn't even want it anymore lol and I'm kinda hesitant on firing this thing up. Thanks for the warnings and telling it straight
I've been trying it out. I gotta figure out all the precision stuff like time, intensity and all those settings. So far its just burning and not really engraving. If I put it on outline it doesn't burn and looks good. I gotta put more time into it but you're right I'm starting to like it
@@zackhopkins5185 If it's just burning, move faster, or use a lower power on the laser. Or use some air assist to blow away the debris it makes while burning/engraving. If it cuts the dust, it will end up looking like a burn rather than a clean engraving.
All valid points....but this machine can really work well: You can use something like LightBurn for the software..WAY better! To make your burns even, you can turn on overscan, and this will avoid the edges being darker, due to acceleration and deceleration. You can use an airgun to blow away any burn material, to avoid smudging. This machine, for the price, with a little tuning can work well! Just needs a bit of tuning, but not everyone is capable of that..in which case, solid advice: Go get a K40 400Lb machine.... :-). Thank you for taking the time to create this review and video!
If you buy bottom of the line 40W laser you'll face the same problems. Resolution is low because it's actually burning. Yes, the dot is small, but the wood/paper is burning around the dot too. The more power (or to be more precise energy - power for specific time ) you put in, the bigger the burned hole will be - deeper and wider. And if you actually burn wood you have to slightly overpower it because wood has grain - some spots are lighter, some are darker. The darker burn easier. So $250 or $25 000 you'll face the same problems. Except that the bigger laser will actually have some safety built in and might have better software
People have had really good luck with adding air assist to these. It really helps tremendously on cutting down the soot and helps burn through wood by moving soot out of the way so it can cut deeper. Most of the negative stuff is either expecting too much or not seeing how you can improve it. But for me it's kind of a proof of concept thing. I want to try it before I do a huge investment. See what I can make and do with it. Plus learn the process, software, etc. Then if it fits and I find I need something with more power I can then make that decision. Dumping $300 or more for something I don't know if I'll do that much with yet is a bit much for me. Easier to find out this way. Plus I have no problem with being able to modify things to make it better. On those bigger lasers you pretty much have to do the same thing. You will be replacing tubes, power supplies, lenses, etc. and re-adjusting mirrors a lot.
I wouldn't buy it or recommend it, so there's no affiliate link. With the CR-10, it's a decent printer for the money, so I would actually recommend it. But this? Nope.
Jon wants his video content for free. I have no issue with affiliate links. Appreciated the video - will definitely look for something more capable and safe.
yeah, we should all just release all of this content, do what you can't/won't, so you may or may not figure out whether you will/won't buy it. not expect or ask anything in return. even something as ridiculously unintruding as an affiliate link.
Very educational video, and thanks for sharing. I imagine that we'll be seeing those steppers or parts of the structure in a future project video then!
Nice video. I've been toying with the idea of adding a laser head to a machine but didn't know much about them. I guess now I know what to stay away from!
Having worked with industrial lasers for my whole career (30 years now), these cheap machines scare the bejesus out of me. The thought of people using them on their kitchen tables with kids nearby is terrifying. 2.5W is a significant eye safety hazard and a machine like that would be illegal in Europe (and I guess the USA) without adequate guarding and interlocks. Having said that, with the right safety procedures in place they are a great introduction to lasers and incredibly cheap. With a few simple modifications, I am sure it could be a useful tool.
Thanks for your video and the information because I’ve got this model and a K40 that I haven’t even used simply because I’m old school hammer and nails guy and the technical area ( computer and software) is not my department and that’s the area I’ve got to get my head around. I got this model off a relative but I bought the K40 about 7mths ago. Anyway (again) thanks for your video as it’s certainly opened my eyes or SAVED THEM looking at the virtual zero safety features and I thought the K40 was bad in that area although it’s now in a safer condition than when I bought it, Liverpool 🇬🇧
I use the almost same laser 2.5 watt and it works really well the guy does a good review but doesnt know how to use what he has with a little patiance and willingness to learn these are nice beginer/intermeadiate lasers
Perfect review. I have been trying to understand the difference in laser engravers and this certainly saved me from wasting $200 on something that I wouldn't use in the long run.
You can actually get 20W fiber lasers with a galvanometer for engraving from Chinese manufacturers in the 10-15k usd range. We are strongly thinking about getting one for our company..
It's cheap and fun to learn a bit about Laser engraving, if you know nothing about the hobby (Or job) I have been a electronic Engineer for 50 years and now I am retired I decided to play around with a few cheap Chinese Electronic units due to their cheapness, We are not all Millionaires who can afford £1000. to £100,000 to buy the expensive units just to learn how they work or how to use them, I 100% agree on the safety Laser goggles, and due to the Low laser power you are not going to accidentally slice you head of with one of these if something goes wrong with the unit. I read a lot of comments on cheap Chinese Electronics, some are good and some are bad But I love them because when experimenting with them if you bust something it's not going to cost an arm and a leg to replace the part! Unless you buy the units from RS Components, or farnells electrical. Both very expensive compared to the Cheap Chinese stuff, but hay I have had over 100 cheap Chinese LED, LCD panel meters (All installed in units I have built over the years, and still working fine costing pennies. This is only my opinion. Good Video thought! If I had to buy all my Electronics from the main Electronic dealers, like I used to when working for the companies I used to work for, I would need to be far richer than I am now. If you want to see some of the items I made since retiring, type My electronic work shed.
Your opinion is very valid. For me, I don't like playing around with something that costs me time, or doesn't give me expected results. It's the same reason I'm not playing around with a DIY waterjet, or a DIY metal 3d printer. They're not cheap enough to be useful. I feel like this engraver is just like that, it's more fiddly and inconsistent to be useful as a tool. As a hobby and a curiosity? Sure. But not as a tool I rely on.
I know this probably isn’t up your ally but maybe it is, yesterday my Eleks servo motors were working just fine and then all of a sudden they quit after it made a cut I tired to move them with the back and forth buttons and nothing I looked on the Eleks forum and they talked about the Micro USB cable can go bad so I bought another one and its still not workin, the laser comes on when I change screen but no movement what do you think? the error im getting is Still in Running and it skips and its cutting
Comparing an A3 to a K40 is just downright silly IMO. One is made to run on the kitchen table and one in a well ventilated workshop with extractor fan and water cooling. It['s a pity you had the background you did since IMO your expectations were unreasonably high to start with. I sold my K40 and bought an A3 specifically because of their differences and I'm doing far more engraving with the A3 fitted with a 40mm air assist fan than I ever did in a freezing cold shed with the K40.
Can you recommend a A3 model? I would love to get rid of my paper cut plotter to cut my paper single by single. I would love to layer multiple papers and make some simple silhouetts on a A3 or A4 size in it but without burnmarks. Price can be around 1000 euro. Is there something but not a CO2 laser, which you can recommend and i can use it on my kitchen :-) Because space is a big problem to me :-) Thanks in advance!
Yeah and his estimated cost of a k40 laser off ebay being $300ish is USA only, being in Canada (not sure about other countries) i cant find one for under $575 USD, and if i do for some reason they have an equally high shipping cost, no joke $200-500 for shipping to Canada.
Thank you so much, I came so close to buying one of these build your own kits, I'm so glad I didn't ill definitely be shopping around for a co2 laser, main issue right now is that i can find an A3 co2 laser cutter at a reasonable price, really open to suggestions on this one
amusing... I've been using the very same eleksmaker since 2018 and it still operates well despite my multiple engravings. It's amusing that you gave a kind of importance to a review where the guy who was GIVEN (not PAID! GIVEN) the stuff, seemed obliged to find some imperfections and negative aspects just to justify a pseudo neutrality or honesty! All that just after ONE try! IT'S DECEPTION to say the least, and maybe the worst aspect of it, it's FAKE! You CAN'T HAVE A REASONABLE OPINION BASED ON ONE (1) PRINT! That said, if you can't afford some decent CO2 laser now you have the option of waiting indefinitely until their prices equal an eleksmaker A3 pro's... You just don't really know what you want. And believe me, we all begin small. That means if you ever want to start to learn piano only on a Steinway, you're definitely inconsistent if you're not wealthy enough.
Brother, I need a mega help, I have an EleksLaser-A3 Pro 2500mW but I haven't been able to cut it yet. I would like to know if it has the power to cut a 3mm MDF sheet ... do I not know how to regulate the laser and speed or do I not have the power for that? Thanks in advance, great channel, one more writing !! sorry for the text, i'm brazilian.
Yeah this guy doesn't know what he's talking about. You can source fiber laser marking systems that offer nanosecond pulses and a galvo-based scanning system for under $10k.
Im looking for a laser cutter that can cut dollar store foam board and 1/8 in plywood the dimmensions of the foam board are 20in x 30in what laser cutter would u recommend while spending the least amount of money possible?
Hi....this style laser machine is widely on ebay etc....what i find odd is that there is no consistent pattern of assembling the x gantry /laser...some have the belt mounted on top some on bottom....some have the stepper motor mounted with power connection pointing up some pointed down......any input on why?
I dont find these little machine as bad as you tell in the end of the clip. I dont have it but i think, that - like already described by others - it is a solid beginner model for users, who want enter the world of engraving and explore first resultats without give tousands of money for a professional purpose. Even if it would be bought a profesdional in the future: This little is a fullfunction what also allows to demonstrate live a process how engraving works at all. Bigger and professional purposes - in the function they are the same - but have s lot more functions and accessoires. Yes, a co2 tube laser has much more power than a little beginners diode-laser in the 2.5 up to 5.5w sector and another appropriate wavelength for cutting i.e. acryllic glas and so on... You meant as an example for bigger powerful lasers the models i.e. k40 (if i understood rightly) instead of this... Hmmmmh if close my recommendation on a comparison between this or co2 tube versions of china-lasers - i would decide for this little!! Because every second thread about i.e. k40 "for only 100dollars/euro more to get a powerful" tells a story about little up to big desaster... If i see the manufactoring-quality of the k40 and its next version only, and look back onto this little fine engraver, i feel confirmed myself in all thoughts... My needs are morw cutting purposes (housings for devices i.e.) and therefore not the 5.5w, neighter the 2.5w version would help me out. And wouldnt help me this wavelength... But i would buy it almost alone only for watching it ;) :) One thing left - the testswitch. It is for testing: "does/can the laser work?" Yes it can be dangerous, because fullpowered the laser starts working without further warning... But also very expensive laser-controllers have a function "lase on startup" whats for the purpose on powerfailure while lasing and controllers place isnt operators in the moment. So if controller adjusted in this way, fullpower lasing is continued after power returns (or start the controller next time). In my synrad 48-2 laserhead (as oem without keyswitch) with above 30w measured by synrad "unwanted/expected" full-laser-power on switching on could lightly burn sth. down. Therefore - maybe i see the "laser-confirm-button" on the top here not as a so big danger as probably others do... Knowing and not forgetting. Snd everythime dont start the laser without a fireresistant plate under it. Respect a dangerous thing help not get injured by it. Fear does opposite!!
Thanks Robert, First video I have seen a negative review for, appreciate the honesty. Is the depthness something you can change under a laser setting? It might make it take much longer though
I recently got one of these engravers, but the laser unit has become very weak after only a few weeks and not much use. The light is not just very faint and now no longer engraves, have you experience any similar problems?
Hello , i have Eleksmaker A3 pro ,do i need to calibrate the machine? I have installed the program, I choοse the COM and the machine. , what do button set home and home? I can move the laser manually, but when I select the photo while it shows to the computer that it reads the design it does not move the laser at all. Could you help me? Thank you
I'm not sure how to troubleshoot the machine. You can try contacting the manufacturer, I have no affiliation with the company and do not recommend purchasing the machine because of poor support and build quality.
Robert, is it possible that the open design is so you could engrave a large design by breaking it up into sections, and then moving the laser around to engrave each section? Seems you obviously couldn't do that with an enclosed machine. Please excuse rookie question, I'm just starting to shop around for my first machine. Thanks!
also. the pluse seting is probably the step/mm isnt it. that would explain the bad resolution on the engraving since you scaled it over 3 times. also for cutting you could use easel without tool ofset
I don't think it is. When you generate the g-code, there is a screen (that I didn't show for long) that you can select the 'lines per mm' or whatever. That is the resolution. It basically just slices up the image into lines.
I think the whole point is to buy a cheap machine and if you like it but it seems lacking modify the hell out of it like Myfordboy does. my 3d printer is being modded to cut as well as 3d print and eventually add a laser.
Thank you so much. Indeed i am a new subscriber here and i found your video so useful. I am also a beginner to laser and i would like to know if this kind is good for me as i already have ordered one. Thank you in advance if you guide me. I will also appreciate all the comments from other subscribers.
So, what are your thoughts (or other people's thoughts) on whether I could use this for cutting out stencils for air brushing - bottom line it'd be paper or maybe manila folder type material.
I think cutting stencils and such would be good. There are stencil cutting machines though. If all you're doing is cutting stencils, maybe a vinyl cutter would make more sense? But it could work for that, given the safety and reliability concerns.
@@RobertCowanDIY thank you. I'll check into the price for those, I'm pretty good with safety so if the price is significant then I can make sure that I am the only one near the thing.
Oh meh gawsh. I became impressed with the product even thought the review seemed to under-rate it. The laser is as close to a gun as you can get; you shouldn't be around either. Was that you at the New England/Saint Louis playoff game?
Hello there , thanks for yr nice video , i got Eleks A3 pro 2500 W , i build it as it well belt tension is good but i have a problem with the software , when i load a pic the laser working and flashing but in same place dosen't move , the three motors got power i feel it by touch but they don't move at all , can u help me pls . thanks
When i assembled mine per instructions....its all opposite in communication with benbox....when u try to move left in benbox the engraver moves right and same with up down..all opposite
Thanks very informative. I’m researching for something I can attach to my cnc router. It’s a heavy duty home make toy. Cuts 48” x 60”. Ive made a plasma pan and attached my Lincoln Procut 55 Plasma cutter. Now i want to add the Laser. Any suggestions would be great.
Hello Robert, Thank you for informative video! Well done. Question: What operating system does this cutter use? Perhaps I missed that part of the video...? Thank in advance. ~Andrew
Light Amplification through the Stimulated Emission of Radiation. LASER. And the most affordable setup while still maintaining quality would be to build your own frame using OpenBuilds and then purchase the CO2 laser parts separately.
@@JesusTouchedMyJunk Awesome! Thank you so much for your time and knowledge. My phone corrects me to lazer and then I've seen laser also, so I wasn't ever sure which it was. Thatnks for teaching me that. So can I run something like this in my apartment with a window open or do I need a well ventilated shop?
The advantage of a monolithic diode laser such as this blue one in the video is that it doesn't require nearly as much support equipment as a CO2 laser. So, it is therefore considered much safer. A CO2 laser requires a high voltage power supply and active water cooling, whereas a diode such as this (although not this particular weak chinesium diode) requires only air cooling with a PC fan coupled with a beefy heatsink. To answer more directly, yes, I have a 7 watt blue diode set up in a similar configuration in my spare bedroom (Carpeted floors, sheetrock, etc). I do not feel nearly as worried about this as I would if it were a CO2 laser, due to less of a burning hazard. Ventilation is really a matter of taste. I've been running mine completely unventilated, and unless I'm cutting wood it's not bothersome. But even the wood fumes do not set off smoke alarms. For a CO2 tool you would definitely want ventilation because of the higher material removal rate and therefore much more stuff in the air (and larger particles of stuff). I'd recommend endurance lasers or OPT lasers for fully assembled heads, or DTR's Laser shop for the diodes themselves.
Glad I could help! There are some really great resources out there. Don't be afraid to bite off more than you can chew. You seem motivated and curious enough to figure this stuff out. Happy Lasing!
Awesome video. Can you recomend a product with a CO2 laser - 35-40W and maybe A3 big? I would love to cut multiple papers in one session, instead of plotting one paper after another. Would be awesome if you have a product recomendation for me! Thanks a lot!
I've had nothing but problems installing the software. It continually has issues finding the serial port. Can't even check the machine to see if it works.
Hi there , did u solve yr software problem i have same problem the laser works fine and flash but the three motors don't move although they have power i can feel it by touch
Is it possible to burn a logo directly into a table top or slab of wood larger than the unit while the unit is sitting on that slab? I have been looking at branding irons but do not like the limitation of having just one brand, or having to purchase over and over ...vs the flexibility of putting unique or custom designs onto cutting boards, coasters and tables I have made. Thanks in advance
I would say yes. Mainly you adjust the height of the laser, OR the intensity. As you saw, the balloon popped at 20ft away or so at max power. So you can easily brand a piece of wood under the machine. Your limitation would be the size of the frame.
Thank you for the quick respond :) Probably you did not make stamp with your machine ,but maybe you heard some info about stamp engraving .I am very curious about it because there are many expensive engravers for example Rayjet ,etc . I would like to use this for engraving stamps and plastic name plates. Is it a good choice to buy for these tasks? What is your opinion?Thank you ,,
I have been looking for an engraver/cutter for a while now but everything is in the thousands. Is there anything that you would know of/recommend for around the 500 mark?
Very interested in the follow up video idea mentioned. Particularly thoughts on the K40 style laser cutters which seem like a good alternative for not a huge amount more money. What has put me off those was they all seem to require a dedicated staked ground connection and it's not completely clear how to do properly safe setup in terms of grounding and ventilation.
Full disclosure, I bought this laser and love it. You should upgrade the firmware to GRBL 1.1, if you do let me know and I'll give you my settings. Then give LightBurn a try, you won't regret it, especially if you get LightBurn working on your k40 or any other lasers you have.
Hi Josh! I am planning to buy AS - 5 10000mW Laser Engraving Machine. Can you send me please the software which I can use for this machine? appreciate your help. markedmundvicuna@gmail.com
Yeah, this is the big issue with buying kits from china. I've just built a super cheap CNC and had the same issues, the instructions were lacking (the ones I was provided were in Chinese) and pieces in my kit were different from what was shown. Now I'm struggling to get it cutting because all the software and setup instructions are in Chinese
Team Panic Same problem.... I spent hours farting around with firmware and software. I ended up with a GRBL 1.1 firmware (from GRBL's github releases I think), and I've been using LaserGRBL for software. I would prefer Linux software but haven't been able to get anything to work yet.... but I've only had mine for about 5 days and wanted to make some Christmas gifts with it before I fiddle with things more.
@@ruisilva8222 I recommend the K40 style lasers. Search Amazon or eBay for 40-watt laser. This is a CO2-based laser, so it will have more power, but a smaller work surface.
I haven't messed with any other lasers lately. I have seen some small 'tabletop' ones that might make good woodworking engravers. They're small enough that they kinda act like a branding iron. I would probably just go with a branding iron though, unless you want a bigger mark. Check amazon for desktop laser engravers, the little small ones seem interesting.
i wonder if you could do a video exploring the mods required to make this a useable item? i for one would be interested, would it be possible to get it somewhere near to a 'real' laser engraver with a few simple mods or are we talking hundreds spent for no gain?
Your video is good sad part is we are now on 2021 and this machine has a very bad reputation for not working well and most is software problems and the manufacture won't take care of the issues the only good thing about is the frame but to much money just for a frame and stepper motors
a.co/d/5nE5mYu . This is a similar kit with laser. If you are a DIY sort, I would mount a dremel extension arm to where the laser is and use some gcode software for the cutting. Manually turn the dremel on at the appropriate start point and let the software move it around.
Hi..looking for a laser to cut paper and card...Would this laser be suitable...I know you say the results are not great...The card I want to cut can be upto 400gm..
it could work for cutting paper, but you might want to look into some sort of blower or air assist so you don't get fires or charring around the edges.
This is good for darker paper, not white or blue. A better option would be to add a cutting attachment , there's a pen attachment coming out soon that would also hold a vinyl cutter blade holder. It would be quicker and cleaner, just hold the paper down to a cutting mat with 3m super 77
I bought one and modified much of it to suit what I wanted.
Main thing was to use drag chains for the cabling and also change the software to use LaserGRBL which is free and a thousand times better than what came with the machine.
I do have an 80 watt CO2 laser that I used for doing jobs like name badges, engrave and cut, but I found that this diode laser actually does a better job and more easily too.
I also added some changes to the laser output end by adding a 3D printed nozzle that carries a flow of air to the engraving area, this made the engraving far better and also cleared away the smoke generated. I ended up putting the whole machine inside a MDF case that has smoke extraction built in, red acrylic side panels for laser protection.
In all, I would say that for the price it is a good start for building a cheap machine that is practical for many small jobs, but needs to be made safer. The laser coming on without warning is a worry, so the best way around that is to press the low laser button and leave it on while starting up the machine and also the computer. This button uses the laser in low level power for setting the focus and also for placing the work piece in position. When the software has been started and everything is ready for engraving, release the low level button and the laser will not start unexpectedly by itself then and only fire when the software instructs it to do so.
Make video of it please
As a complete novice regarding engraving machines I want to thank you for pointing out the safety issues that need to be considered when purchasing such equipment, you may have just saved my sight.Thanks for the video and advice.
This is the first review of laser engravers I found useful, I almost bought this. So thank you!
What's the price
My A3 laser is a 2.5 watt model and I got it to cut 3mm Baltic birch plywood with a VERY slow speed, 100% power, 2 passes and also a change in firmware so I can control it with LaserGRBL! It works just fine and I even laser cut a PrintrBot 3d printer...
Yes, there are plenty of people that can find uses for the machine. For me, cutting several passes at a very slow speed just isn't what I'm looking for. I'm sure your edge on the cut isn't great, and it's really slow. For me, I'd rather spend a bit more money and get something that's a bit more usable.
I have the same machine and I am very pleased with it. I have over 90 plus hours of engraving and no problems. I use T2 Laser program and it is the best ever. I always use compressed air to blow away the soot at the end. This machine paid for itself at least 5 times. CO2 laser are great but you have more work area with this machine than you have with a co2 laser. They are also expensive to maintain like changing mirrors and the gas. Great video though
I have one of these and have had it for a couple of years. I like it sort of, but it was a 2nd had one and the laser isn't the factory one that was supposed to have came with it. It still does fairly decent. When I engrave wood with it, I wash it off lightly with water, let it dry, then clear coat it.
I have the same engraver and I agree with every conclusion you came up with. I have more luck engraving in wood than anything else but most of the time I'm engraving text onto pieces that already have a finish applied. The finish makes it much easier to clean off the residue that is left behind. I think there was a firmware update that was suppose to correct the issue with the laser starting out on full power when you turn it on. I don't seem to have that issue now but I still make sure to keep my hands away when I power it on.
I appreciate you putting this together. I have a CO2 and have considered one of these as a light engraver, as I've seen some great results in them. However, the points about plastic construction convince me that I should consider a better machine, as I don't mind constructing it once but high probability of the plastic stressing and breaking is something to consider if once is enough. Thanks again!
Just put this thing together for my girlfriends mom. After watching this video she doesn't even want it anymore lol and I'm kinda hesitant on firing this thing up. Thanks for the warnings and telling it straight
Plenty of people DO like this laser, and it can still be useful, just exercise extreme caution and know what you're getting into.
I've been trying it out. I gotta figure out all the precision stuff like time, intensity and all those settings. So far its just burning and not really engraving. If I put it on outline it doesn't burn and looks good. I gotta put more time into it but you're right I'm starting to like it
@@zackhopkins5185 If it's just burning, move faster, or use a lower power on the laser. Or use some air assist to blow away the debris it makes while burning/engraving. If it cuts the dust, it will end up looking like a burn rather than a clean engraving.
All valid points....but this machine can really work well: You can use something like LightBurn for the software..WAY better! To make your burns even, you can turn on overscan, and this will avoid the edges being darker, due to acceleration and deceleration. You can use an airgun to blow away any burn material, to avoid smudging. This machine, for the price, with a little tuning can work well! Just needs a bit of tuning, but not everyone is capable of that..in which case, solid advice: Go get a K40 400Lb machine.... :-). Thank you for taking the time to create this review and video!
If you buy bottom of the line 40W laser you'll face the same problems. Resolution is low because it's actually burning. Yes, the dot is small, but the wood/paper is burning around the dot too. The more power (or to be more precise energy - power for specific time ) you put in, the bigger the burned hole will be - deeper and wider. And if you actually burn wood you have to slightly overpower it because wood has grain - some spots are lighter, some are darker. The darker burn easier. So $250 or $25 000 you'll face the same problems. Except that the bigger laser will actually have some safety built in and might have better software
People have had really good luck with adding air assist to these. It really helps tremendously on cutting down the soot and helps burn through wood by moving soot out of the way so it can cut deeper. Most of the negative stuff is either expecting too much or not seeing how you can improve it. But for me it's kind of a proof of concept thing. I want to try it before I do a huge investment. See what I can make and do with it. Plus learn the process, software, etc. Then if it fits and I find I need something with more power I can then make that decision. Dumping $300 or more for something I don't know if I'll do that much with yet is a bit much for me. Easier to find out this way. Plus I have no problem with being able to modify things to make it better. On those bigger lasers you pretty much have to do the same thing. You will be replacing tubes, power supplies, lenses, etc. and re-adjusting mirrors a lot.
Michael hhdhbs
Thank you for not pimping an affiliate link as so many CZcamsrs do now.
I wouldn't buy it or recommend it, so there's no affiliate link. With the CR-10, it's a decent printer for the money, so I would actually recommend it. But this? Nope.
Jon wants his video content for free. I have no issue with affiliate links.
Appreciated the video - will definitely look for something more capable and safe.
yeah, we should all just release all of this content, do what you can't/won't, so you may or may not figure out whether you will/won't buy it. not expect or ask anything in return. even something as ridiculously unintruding as an affiliate link.
Very educational video, and thanks for sharing. I imagine that we'll be seeing those steppers or parts of the structure in a future project video then!
Thank you for a great review opened me up to what this is really like and convinced me to save a little more money and get something worth it.
Nice video.
I've been toying with the idea of adding a laser head to a machine but didn't know much about them. I guess now I know what to stay away from!
Thanks for this . Looking forward to a further discussion video on lasers.
Having worked with industrial lasers for my whole career (30 years now), these cheap machines scare the bejesus out of me. The thought of people using them on their kitchen tables with kids nearby is terrifying. 2.5W is a significant eye safety hazard and a machine like that would be illegal in Europe (and I guess the USA) without adequate guarding and interlocks.
Having said that, with the right safety procedures in place they are a great introduction to lasers and incredibly cheap. With a few simple modifications, I am sure it could be a useful tool.
😂😂😂😂
Really interesting overview. Would love to see a more in depth comparison between this and an entry level co2 laser.
Thanks for your video and the information because I’ve got this model and a K40 that I haven’t even used simply because I’m old school hammer and nails guy and the technical area ( computer and software) is not my department and that’s the area I’ve got to get my head around. I got this model off a relative but I bought the K40 about 7mths ago. Anyway (again) thanks for your video as it’s certainly opened my eyes or SAVED THEM looking at the virtual zero safety features and I thought the K40 was bad in that area although it’s now in a safer condition than when I bought it, Liverpool 🇬🇧
Can you mark metal with it? I dont need to cut it just mark letters in it... Thank you
I use the almost same laser 2.5 watt and it works really well the guy does a good review but doesnt know how to use what he has with a little patiance and willingness to learn these are nice beginer/intermeadiate lasers
Perfect review. I have been trying to understand the difference in laser engravers and this certainly saved me from wasting $200 on something that I wouldn't use in the long run.
You can actually get 20W fiber lasers with a galvanometer for engraving from Chinese manufacturers in the 10-15k usd range. We are strongly thinking about getting one for our company..
It's cheap and fun to learn a bit about Laser engraving, if you know nothing about the hobby (Or job) I have been a electronic Engineer for 50 years and now I am retired I decided to play around with a few cheap Chinese Electronic units due to their cheapness, We are not all Millionaires who can afford £1000. to £100,000 to buy the expensive units just to learn how they work or how to use them, I 100% agree on the safety Laser goggles, and due to the Low laser power you are not going to accidentally slice you head of with one of these if something goes wrong with the unit. I read a lot of comments on cheap Chinese Electronics, some are good and some are bad But I love them because when experimenting with them if you bust something it's not going to cost an arm and a leg to replace the part! Unless you buy the units from RS Components, or farnells electrical. Both very expensive compared to the Cheap Chinese stuff, but hay I have had over 100 cheap Chinese LED, LCD panel meters (All installed in units I have built over the years, and still working fine costing pennies. This is only my opinion. Good Video thought! If I had to buy all my Electronics from the main Electronic dealers, like I used to when working for the companies I used to work for, I would need to be far richer than I am now. If you want to see some of the items I made since retiring, type My electronic work shed.
Your opinion is very valid. For me, I don't like playing around with something that costs me time, or doesn't give me expected results. It's the same reason I'm not playing around with a DIY waterjet, or a DIY metal 3d printer. They're not cheap enough to be useful. I feel like this engraver is just like that, it's more fiddly and inconsistent to be useful as a tool. As a hobby and a curiosity? Sure. But not as a tool I rely on.
I know this probably isn’t up your ally but maybe it is, yesterday my Eleks servo motors were working just fine and then all of a sudden they quit after it made a cut I tired to move them with the back and forth buttons and nothing I looked on the Eleks forum and they talked about the Micro USB cable can go bad so I bought another one and its still not workin, the laser comes on when I change screen but no movement what do you think? the error im getting is Still in Running and it skips and its cutting
Laughed out loud when it came to the balloon shooting! Great video, horrible/scary machine! :)
Thanks for the honest review!
Thank you. I was thinking about getting this but now after watching this video there is no way I would get this device. Thank you
Thanks for the honesty.
Thank you good info
Looking for the k40 you mentioned, but can’t find it anywhere
Comparing an A3 to a K40 is just downright silly IMO. One is made to run on the kitchen table and one in a well ventilated workshop with extractor fan and water cooling. It['s a pity you had the background you did since IMO your expectations were unreasonably high to start with. I sold my K40 and bought an A3 specifically because of their differences and I'm doing far more engraving with the A3 fitted with a 40mm air assist fan than I ever did in a freezing cold shed with the K40.
Can you recommend a A3 model? I would love to get rid of my paper cut plotter to cut my paper single by single.
I would love to layer multiple papers and make some simple silhouetts on a A3 or A4 size in it but without burnmarks. Price can be around 1000 euro. Is there something but not a CO2 laser, which you can recommend and i can use it on my kitchen :-) Because space is a big problem to me :-) Thanks in advance!
Yeah and his estimated cost of a k40 laser off ebay being $300ish is USA only, being in Canada (not sure about other countries) i cant find one for under $575 USD, and if i do for some reason they have an equally high shipping cost, no joke $200-500 for shipping to Canada.
it was good info for people not laser savvy....just saved me some $.
I saved 15% on my auto insurance by switching to geico !
@@reflector36 you pay a penalty for living in such a great country, or its a penalty for living in such a shitty country. could go either way.
if laser head is 10W can i engrave the metal ? if can how to setting it
and why does it skip in its burning
Thank you so much, I came so close to buying one of these build your own kits, I'm so glad I didn't ill definitely be shopping around for a co2 laser, main issue right now is that i can find an A3 co2 laser cutter at a reasonable price, really open to suggestions on this one
amusing... I've been using the very same eleksmaker since 2018 and it still operates well despite my multiple engravings. It's amusing that you gave a kind of importance to a review where the guy who was GIVEN (not PAID! GIVEN) the stuff, seemed obliged to find some imperfections and negative aspects just to justify a pseudo neutrality or honesty! All that just after ONE try! IT'S DECEPTION to say the least, and maybe the worst aspect of it, it's FAKE! You CAN'T HAVE A REASONABLE OPINION BASED ON ONE (1) PRINT! That said, if you can't afford some decent CO2 laser now you have the option of waiting indefinitely until their prices equal an eleksmaker A3 pro's... You just don't really know what you want. And believe me, we all begin small. That means if you ever want to start to learn piano only on a Steinway, you're definitely inconsistent if you're not wealthy enough.
Brother, I need a mega help, I have an EleksLaser-A3 Pro 2500mW but I haven't been able to cut it yet. I would like to know if it has the power to cut a 3mm MDF sheet ... do I not know how to regulate the laser and speed or do I not have the power for that? Thanks in advance, great channel, one more writing !! sorry for the text, i'm brazilian.
Great review man thanks.
I'm a gunsmith I use a fiber laser for embellishing firearms my 30w fiber laser system made by iehk
Was only $8,800.00
Yeah this guy doesn't know what he's talking about. You can source fiber laser marking systems that offer nanosecond pulses and a galvo-based scanning system for under $10k.
Please tell me how to buy this product
Im looking for a laser cutter that can cut dollar store foam board and 1/8 in plywood the dimmensions of the foam board are 20in x 30in what laser cutter would u recommend while spending the least amount of money possible?
Print some 3d printer belt tensioners and use them. You can find them in thiniverse
great and onest video ty sir
Guys, how do I find those aluminium "beams" you use for the structure? What are they called?
extruded aluminum
Hi....this style laser machine is widely on ebay etc....what i find odd is that there is no consistent pattern of assembling the x gantry /laser...some have the belt mounted on top some on bottom....some have the stepper motor mounted with power connection pointing up some pointed down......any input on why?
I dont find these little machine as bad as you tell in the end of the clip. I dont have it but i think, that - like already described by others - it is a solid beginner model for users, who want enter the world of engraving and explore first resultats without give tousands of money for a professional purpose. Even if it would be bought a profesdional in the future: This little is a fullfunction what also allows to demonstrate live a process how engraving works at all. Bigger and professional purposes - in the function they are the same - but have s lot more functions and accessoires. Yes, a co2 tube laser has much more power than a little beginners diode-laser in the 2.5 up to 5.5w sector and another appropriate wavelength for cutting i.e. acryllic glas and so on...
You meant as an example for bigger powerful lasers the models i.e. k40 (if i understood rightly) instead of this... Hmmmmh if close my recommendation on a comparison between this or co2 tube versions of china-lasers - i would decide for this little!! Because every second thread about i.e. k40 "for only 100dollars/euro more to get a powerful" tells a story about little up to big desaster... If i see the manufactoring-quality of the k40 and its next version only, and look back onto this little fine engraver, i feel confirmed myself in all thoughts...
My needs are morw cutting purposes (housings for devices i.e.) and therefore not the 5.5w, neighter the 2.5w version would help me out. And wouldnt help me this wavelength... But i would buy it almost alone only for watching it ;) :)
One thing left - the testswitch. It is for testing: "does/can the laser work?"
Yes it can be dangerous, because fullpowered the laser starts working without further warning... But also very expensive laser-controllers have a function "lase on startup" whats for the purpose on powerfailure while lasing and controllers place isnt operators in the moment. So if controller adjusted in this way, fullpower lasing is continued after power returns (or start the controller next time). In my synrad 48-2 laserhead (as oem without keyswitch) with above 30w measured by synrad "unwanted/expected" full-laser-power on switching on could lightly burn sth. down. Therefore - maybe i see the "laser-confirm-button" on the top here not as a so big danger as probably others do... Knowing and not forgetting. Snd everythime dont start the laser without a fireresistant plate under it. Respect a dangerous thing help not get injured by it. Fear does opposite!!
Thanks Robert, First video I have seen a negative review for, appreciate the honesty. Is the depthness something you can change under a laser setting? It might make it take much longer though
Nick Powers this laser works great but it the software is horrible. After a firmware upgrade, you can run it with lightburn and really dial it in.
I recently got one of these engravers, but the laser unit has become very weak after only a few weeks and not much use. The light is not just very faint and now no longer engraves, have you experience any similar problems?
Skip to the 20:30 mark before you fall asleep......!
Hello , i have Eleksmaker A3 pro ,do i need to calibrate the machine? I have installed the program, I choοse the COM and the machine.
, what do button set home and home?
I can move the laser manually, but when I select the photo while it shows to the computer that it reads the design it does not move the laser at all.
Could you help me?
Thank you
I'm not sure how to troubleshoot the machine. You can try contacting the manufacturer, I have no affiliation with the company and do not recommend purchasing the machine because of poor support and build quality.
I would love to learn more about laser cutters. I'm very interested in purchasing one, but it's very daunting.
If I ever get the time, I wanted to do a "everything you wanted to know about lasers" video. I would have loved that before I got my first one!
This laser is worth the money but it takes some patients and tinkering. It's not for everyone.
Hi Robert, I am looking for a little brass engraver, nothing fancy, just want to be able to mark keys. Any that you would recommend? Thanks!
Robert, is it possible that the open design is so you could engrave a large design by breaking it up into sections, and then moving the laser around to engrave each section? Seems you obviously couldn't do that with an enclosed machine. Please excuse rookie question, I'm just starting to shop around for my first machine. Thanks!
also. the pluse seting is probably the step/mm isnt it. that would explain the bad resolution on the engraving since you scaled it over 3 times. also for cutting you could use easel without tool ofset
I don't think it is. When you generate the g-code, there is a screen (that I didn't show for long) that you can select the 'lines per mm' or whatever. That is the resolution. It basically just slices up the image into lines.
Yeah, he did mess up the resolution and the correct settings was 80.
I think the whole point is to buy a cheap machine and if you like it but it seems lacking modify the hell out of it like Myfordboy does. my 3d printer is being modded to cut as well as 3d print and eventually add a laser.
Hye, what is that laser's software name?
how thick is the plexiglas from which the pieces are made?
Please tell me what I do for only stencil cutting for air brush please tell
Thank you so much.
Indeed i am a new subscriber here and i found your video so useful.
I am also a beginner to laser and i would like to know if this kind is good for me as i already have ordered one.
Thank you in advance if you guide me. I will also appreciate all the comments from other subscribers.
Does anyone know if you can get a standard carving head for this machine ? The smaller units have both laser and cnc carving heads.
Interested in just exactly what you would recommend? I am looking at buying a laser and I would like to be able to do as large a surface as possible.
Cool death ray
what would you recommend for around $200 or $300 laser that can do portraits?
So, what are your thoughts (or other people's thoughts) on whether I could use this for cutting out stencils for air brushing - bottom line it'd be paper or maybe manila folder type material.
I think cutting stencils and such would be good. There are stencil cutting machines though. If all you're doing is cutting stencils, maybe a vinyl cutter would make more sense? But it could work for that, given the safety and reliability concerns.
@@RobertCowanDIY thank you. I'll check into the price for those, I'm pretty good with safety so if the price is significant then I can make sure that I am the only one near the thing.
Oh meh gawsh. I became impressed with the product even thought the review seemed to under-rate it. The laser is as close to a gun as you can get; you shouldn't be around either. Was that you at the New England/Saint Louis playoff game?
Hello there , thanks for yr nice video , i got Eleks A3 pro 2500 W , i build it as it well belt tension is good but i have a problem with the software , when i load a pic the laser working and flashing but in same place dosen't move , the three motors got power i feel it by touch but they don't move at all , can u help me pls .
thanks
hello I have a problem with a benbox that the laser no longer burns. what will be
contact the manufacturer, I am not tech support.
Is there enough belt material in the kit t accommodate a bigger frame should I decide to get some longer extrusions?
yea, a little quick on the draw there. Never mind. Saw the end.
Sir...How much this one to India...
Can you make it cut a 16 inch Circle???
The travel is just under 16", so no. Also, it highly depends on the material, how thick, etc.
When i assembled mine per instructions....its all opposite in communication with benbox....when u try to move left in benbox the engraver moves right and same with up down..all opposite
😄 think about that again🤣
Thanks very informative. I’m researching for something I can attach to my cnc router. It’s a heavy duty home make toy. Cuts 48” x 60”.
Ive made a plasma pan and attached my Lincoln Procut 55 Plasma cutter. Now i want to add the Laser. Any suggestions would be great.
can you please tell me does this machine use for fabric cutting like polyester or cotton.
Check out google. You can find out what materials you can cut with a laser.
Hello Robert,
Thank you for informative video! Well done.
Question: What operating system does this cutter use? Perhaps I missed that part of the video...?
Thank in advance.
~Andrew
How do I clear a "still work in process" error??
Love the review! What would you say the best all around affordable set up for a 40w-60w c02 lazer would be?
Light Amplification through the Stimulated Emission of Radiation. LASER. And the most affordable setup while still maintaining quality would be to build your own frame using OpenBuilds and then purchase the CO2 laser parts separately.
@@JesusTouchedMyJunk Awesome! Thank you so much for your time and knowledge. My phone corrects me to lazer and then I've seen laser also, so I wasn't ever sure which it was. Thatnks for teaching me that. So can I run something like this in my apartment with a window open or do I need a well ventilated shop?
The advantage of a monolithic diode laser such as this blue one in the video is that it doesn't require nearly as much support equipment as a CO2 laser. So, it is therefore considered much safer. A CO2 laser requires a high voltage power supply and active water cooling, whereas a diode such as this (although not this particular weak chinesium diode) requires only air cooling with a PC fan coupled with a beefy heatsink.
To answer more directly, yes, I have a 7 watt blue diode set up in a similar configuration in my spare bedroom (Carpeted floors, sheetrock, etc). I do not feel nearly as worried about this as I would if it were a CO2 laser, due to less of a burning hazard.
Ventilation is really a matter of taste. I've been running mine completely unventilated, and unless I'm cutting wood it's not bothersome. But even the wood fumes do not set off smoke alarms. For a CO2 tool you would definitely want ventilation because of the higher material removal rate and therefore much more stuff in the air (and larger particles of stuff).
I'd recommend endurance lasers or OPT lasers for fully assembled heads, or DTR's Laser shop for the diodes themselves.
@@JesusTouchedMyJunk Thank you so much for taking the time to reply! Now I have some more research to do since you broke that down so simple!
Glad I could help! There are some really great resources out there. Don't be afraid to bite off more than you can chew. You seem motivated and curious enough to figure this stuff out. Happy Lasing!
Awesome video. Can you recomend a product with a CO2 laser - 35-40W and maybe A3 big? I would love to cut multiple papers in one session, instead of plotting one paper after another. Would be awesome if you have a product recomendation for me! Thanks a lot!
Do you think it cuts paper/card stock?
I've had nothing but problems installing the software. It continually has issues finding the serial port. Can't even check the machine to see if it works.
Hi there , did u solve yr software problem i have same problem the laser works fine and flash but the three motors don't move although they have power i can feel it by touch
Is it possible to burn a logo directly into a table top or slab of wood larger than the unit while the unit is sitting on that slab? I have been looking at branding irons but do not like the limitation of having just one brand, or having to purchase over and over ...vs the flexibility of putting unique or custom designs onto cutting boards, coasters and tables I have made. Thanks in advance
I would say yes. Mainly you adjust the height of the laser, OR the intensity. As you saw, the balloon popped at 20ft away or so at max power. So you can easily brand a piece of wood under the machine. Your limitation would be the size of the frame.
Can I use this machine as a stamp rubber engraving ? If I use the appropriate settings can I make good quality stamps ? Thanks ,,
Yes, you can engrave rubber with this.
Thank you for the quick respond :) Probably you did not make stamp with your machine ,but maybe you heard some info about stamp engraving .I am very curious about it because there are many expensive engravers for example Rayjet ,etc . I would like to use this for engraving stamps and plastic name plates. Is it a good choice to buy for these tasks? What is your opinion?Thank you ,,
Hello anybody knows how i can adapt the dimensions as i want ? because the software change automatically
I have been looking for an engraver/cutter for a while now but everything is in the thousands. Is there anything that you would know of/recommend for around the 500 mark?
I believe this is a similar kit. a.co/d/5nE5mYu . You can buy the 500mW for around $200. Then buy a 4W laser on eBay for around $60.
what is the minimum font size of engraved ????
I have the same system and use benbox software, stepper motors work great but the laser does not fire.....any ideas I am at my wits end
my suggestion .. dont ever use benbox software other than elekscam..for this eleksmaker..TQ
Hello, does it cut 1mm cardboard? 2mm? Great video
Safety so why put a reflective metal panel in the cutting area?
So it doesn't burn into the wood underneath. Scattered light isn't nearly as dangerous.
What sun drivers would you suggest using with what program for a begginer to use on a laser engraver like this 1 ?
I wouldn't recommend buying this engraver, but if you already have one, you can use laserweb.
Hello what this software please.
Not available this product in India
Very interested in the follow up video idea mentioned. Particularly thoughts on the K40 style laser cutters which seem like a good alternative for not a huge amount more money. What has put me off those was they all seem to require a dedicated staked ground connection and it's not completely clear how to do properly safe setup in terms of grounding and ventilation.
Noted. I'll add you to the list of people that would like to see this video ;-)
Full disclosure, I bought this laser and love it.
You should upgrade the firmware to GRBL 1.1, if you do let me know and I'll give you my settings. Then give LightBurn a try, you won't regret it, especially if you get LightBurn working on your k40 or any other lasers you have.
Hi Josh! I am planning to buy AS - 5 10000mW Laser Engraving Machine. Can you send me please the software which I can use for this machine? appreciate your help. markedmundvicuna@gmail.com
Do you think this will work for wooden pens? I need to be able to go through the wood in order to inlay gold or silver dust. Also a light text
Mark Lengal it should be able to cut 3mm ply if focused properly.
Yeah, this is the big issue with buying kits from china. I've just built a super cheap CNC and had the same issues, the instructions were lacking (the ones I was provided were in Chinese) and pieces in my kit were different from what was shown.
Now I'm struggling to get it cutting because all the software and setup instructions are in Chinese
Team Panic
Same problem.... I spent hours farting around with firmware and software. I ended up with a GRBL 1.1 firmware (from GRBL's github releases I think), and I've been using LaserGRBL for software.
I would prefer Linux software but haven't been able to get anything to work yet.... but I've only had mine for about 5 days and wanted to make some Christmas gifts with it before I fiddle with things more.
Use a third party software to do your cutting like fusion 360
Does it cut balsa? Which machine would you recomend to cut light wood, card, etc
It depends on the thickness. It could probably cut up to a couple mm thick, but it would have to go slowly.
thanks @@RobertCowanDIY. which good priced laser would you recommend?
@@ruisilva8222 I recommend the K40 style lasers. Search Amazon or eBay for 40-watt laser. This is a CO2-based laser, so it will have more power, but a smaller work surface.
Why would you downgrade something that cost this cheap..... It’s designed to basically teach you the basics
how to buying in India
Have you reviewed any newer models of laser engravers? Do you think I could engrave a logo and my name on the flat bottoms of my wood bowls?
I haven't messed with any other lasers lately. I have seen some small 'tabletop' ones that might make good woodworking engravers. They're small enough that they kinda act like a branding iron. I would probably just go with a branding iron though, unless you want a bigger mark. Check amazon for desktop laser engravers, the little small ones seem interesting.
i wonder if you could do a video exploring the mods required to make this a useable item? i for one would be interested, would it be possible to get it somewhere near to a 'real' laser engraver with a few simple mods or are we talking hundreds spent for no gain?
Peter Humphreys he didn't play with the laser enough but there are still some really easy upgrades. Lightburn software is hands down the best upgrade.
Your video is good sad part is we are now on 2021 and this machine has a very bad reputation for not working well and most is software problems and the manufacture won't take care of the issues the only good thing about is the frame but to much money just for a frame and stepper motors
hY, Is it only a Engraver CNC ? Do you know a similar model to Cut also ?
a.co/d/5nE5mYu . This is a similar kit with laser. If you are a DIY sort, I would mount a dremel extension arm to where the laser is and use some gcode software for the cutting. Manually turn the dremel on at the appropriate start point and let the software move it around.
Hi..looking for a laser to cut paper and card...Would this laser be suitable...I know you say the results are not great...The card I want to cut can be upto 400gm..
it could work for cutting paper, but you might want to look into some sort of blower or air assist so you don't get fires or charring around the edges.
This is good for darker paper, not white or blue. A better option would be to add a cutting attachment , there's a pen attachment coming out soon that would also hold a vinyl cutter blade holder. It would be quicker and cleaner, just hold the paper down to a cutting mat with 3m super 77
how much cost of the over all project