How To: Silver Pouring Into Wood Molds
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- čas přidán 13. 12. 2016
- Here is a quick look into how I make a wood mold, and what I do when I pour into one. Again, this is just my way, it doesn't have to be your way, hoping that at least someone out there is helped by this.
Didn't know you could use WOOD as a mold for silver pouring! WOW!!! 👍💓
Great Video! Thanks!
Nice!
Like that silver 👌
Thanks, very nice tutorial and good results.
Those are awsome wood pours thanks I think I may try this out
Thanks. Not much to it, and you can almost pour any shape you can route
Nice job! I e done this once but plan on trying it again soon.
Awesome wood pouring 101 😊 They look fantastic!
Silver Vessel thank you
Great "how to" video, thanks for the advise and for sharing.
Thank you
Looks great thanks for the video!
Thank you
Great video friend. I really enjoyed seeing all the steps. Great pours and I really like that 2.93 bar. Awesome
Thank you
That was awsome. First time I ever seen a wood pour
Thank you, they are fun
great video buddy thank you for sharing
Thank you
Very cool! So interesting putting a cap on that bar. Great pours, my friend. I do have one of your first and earlier pours, the hex.
Thank you, yeah, I think smothering it keeps the heat more uniform, so it cools smoothly
Nice video buddy be a great help to many
Thank you
That is SO cool!
Thanks, but you just like the fire, you already gave yourself up ;)
LMAO! I'M BUSTED! Darn it! :)
great video AG Ender!
Thank you
Good vid! Thanks!
They look awesome! I used to have that same router back around 1986 Sears Craftsman, works great because you can see the bit! So you must cover it so it cools slow to get a smoother top!? I have a 3 foot by 12" by 1" thick piece of Teak wood, very hard, it's like cement, & just as heavy! Havn't tryed to route it yet!!!!
Silver to burn thank you. Yes, I've found that covering them makes them come out much smaller, they cool evenly because the flames don't keep burning due to lack of oxygen. I wouldn't be surprised if that router is from 86...lol I really want to get some harder wood to try out, but I haven't really looked into where to source it yet.
Covering it smothers it got it! I think softwood burns deeper grooves on the back! You need a wood with a decent grain, a mixture of hard and soft woods! I wonder about Diamond willow?! The wood they use to make those walking canes! It's a hard and soft wood! This mostly comes in branches tho!? This teak has no grain, so I don't think it will do much on the back!
now thats what i'm talkin about. great video!
Thank you
What if u put delft clay in a deep enough piece of wood? Think it will keep it smooth entirely?
Possibly, I haven't used clay all too much yet
Have you tried pouring MDF board? Seems like the fiber board would leave a smoother surface than the kiln dried wood.
I haven't, will have to keep that in mind if I get back into it...
Waaaaaw! would love to do that when i m retired....
it`s what i`m doing . i don`t have all of the things you need either so i wore down the belt on a belt sander so it`s just cloth now . it`s a poor mans buffer and works extremely well , no loss of metal . food for thought.
I could watch this all day
Try putting a thinner piece of plywood, wall board, etc, over your wood mother block before routeing, perhaps with spray adhesive, so the splintered mold cut are reduced.
Cheers, I like this video.
Not something I had thought of, will try to remember that trick when I can make the time to pour again.
Very cool !
Thank you
Very crafty. Your a wise man. Sub you up 297 keep up the great work,
Thank you
@@AGEnderRedCarpetHandPoured Your welcome! It shows that you can still Pour Silver without expensive molds. Knowledge. Keep up the great work!
@@strategicsilverstacker yep, a few bucks on some wood, or scraps, and minor power tool ability. Cam make a shape of anything you can think of, just about.
Catch though is the cost of silver, I've not had the extra for the hobby, so I've taken a bit of a break the last few years.
I like that triangle buddy I want one with an eye in it.. Cheers my friend
I'll see what I can do, would be a bigger bar though to get any detail like that
We'll work on it together I want to come up with something cool thanks my brother I'll talk to you later cheers
I almost forgot to click on the thumb,feeeuw. I still have to try this. That big pour on the top left looks like a real challenge. Can't wait to see it come to life. Remember folks all of these are not only something to have but a tangible investment against that fiat stuff ! Well done AG ENDER !
That one never became a thing, it was going to be too big for what I am capable of doing right now, I couldn't carve it so not to lose detail, and it probably would have been 7+ oz, and the bear at 6.24oz was pushing it.
I here ya. I did a 4 oz the other day and had moved to a larger crucible( same as the one you use) and the propane just barely got it done. It really is heat management.
Just watched again! Great info, thank you Sir Ender! The backs are always cool looking! ;) Burnie.
Thank you, I almost had a thought to do this one again, but the couple tricks I have come up with beyond covering the piece, I think I want to keep a trade secret ;)
Lol, sometimes the artist needs to keep somethings to themselves!
Great video! You make cutting the wood look easy! And your pouring skills.....we all saw that bear you made, the dude getting that gorgeous piece of art is a lucky guy!😁😍😛😏
The Bear thanks , I do think at bit is losing its edge though, the last couple have been a bit tougher, especially trying to make the round one.
The Bear I wonder who it could be getting that bear...;)
Good looking pours man. neat to see the silver pouing into the wood like that as they turned out very nice. Would be cool if you could make some sort of skull and crossbones in the wood to make a pour for some sorta pirate look.
Thank you.
I actually did for Kerris L Ravenhill ;) check out her video here czcams.com/video/eSYC2S7HkvM/video.html I do want to make one even more detailed, but I need some harder wood that doesnt lose the finer detail
Man, it has been a minute since I watched a video from one of the old gang! Pretty fun buddy!
Hey friend, thank you, how's it going? I do keep wanting to get back at it again...many ideas rolling around in my head.
I haven't watched many lately either, think the last one I watched was dean's fire extinguisher...
@@AGEnderRedCarpetHandPoured I have been well, graduated watchmaking school but I miss pouring!
@@MrZeke nice, congrats
Wood pours are the bomb:-)
Thank you, they are fun to do, will have a "new" one in the next couple weeks (a shape I've poured before, but someone new ordered one), some silver is ordered :)
I subbed very nice !!!
You want Ag Ender I just subbed to his channel...
looks like your using a soft wood i wonder how a harder wood would react?
I mostly used pine and redwood, so yeah, sifter wood. I did get some scrap of something a lot harder one time, it doesn't burn as deep, so the design from the burned side is less prominent.
My video, silver stack #83 is one where I used the scrap of harder wood.
I was thinking of pouring silver in hard wood and not removing it so the wood silver is the finished peice. Like an inlay. But I'm thinking this might not work cuz the wood burns too much
@@jamesderoc6717 yeah, it would be difficult, I never did get to that point, I did inlay a 90% dime into a hexagon pour for someone.
@@AGEnderRedCarpetHandPoured perhaps if i used stone
Does the type of wood make any difference just curious
It does. The softer the wood, the deeper it will burn into it, and have a thicker design on that side. Where as a harder wood, won't burn as deep, and the lines made are thinner.
I'll take a quick look at my videos, I know I used a harder wood in some of them.
Most of the time I used doug for / pine / or cheaper redwood
czcams.com/video/u1Xm569E1hc/video.html
On the pacman shaped one, you can see some smaller lines on it. Though I would pour 1-2 times into the same mold before the final pour, because I wanted the deeper lines.
Coddle fish bone does similar effect, but smells terrible.
I like this much more.
I've been thinking about trying that out to see the difference in texture, bit I've not done much with the hobby in the last couple years. It is still on my mind though, if something I want to get back to.
AG what does the bar go for? thanks Rich is there a link to what you have for sale? thanks AG rich
AAll depends on weight and how much work goes into the piece, $3-6 over spot per ounce
Use fresh cut ruff lumber from a saw mil
A thumbs up from me is your reward.
Guess I found your link AG don't remember seeing this video good lessons rich
Do you add silver shot in when you melt it down?
What kind of silver do you use for your pours generic silver rounds,silver shot etc.and what do you find to be the least expensive route ?
Hey there, I typically use generic rounds. they tend to be the bet for the price. You can find deals here and there (JM Bullion) where you can get 10oz for spot (once per household/person type thing).
Usually I would find the best deals on ebay, usually ended up being bullion exchanges or mcm ebay store. I try to be under $1 over spot 0.60-0.80.
Shot is usually the most expensive, but it is the easiest to measure exact amounts with if you care about exact weight pours.
Depending on how much you plan to buy at a time, ebay has seemed to be the best I have used for 20-100 oz purchases. Though lately, things have been too tight to be doing a whole lot of pouring.
AG Ender That helps alot Thank You !!
Cool!
Do you put both bars in the tumbler at the same time?
Thanks, it depends on the size of the bars, I have put as many as 3-4 in at the same time.
You can make the drum too heavy for the motor to turn.
I'm not really concerned about the bars hitting each other, I don't feel that (at least in the tumbler I have) that they hit each other enough to cause undesired marks.
AG Ender thanks for the reply :)
When you have finished tumbling do you discard the polishing solution and dry the ball bearings/steel shot?
I’ve bought a tumbler but haven’t used it yet. Thanks for your help :)
@@firebirdbullion8123 Honestly, I never have...I have rinsed everything out, and put new solution in to run it a second time, depending on the piece(s) and how much I want to smooth them out, I could run it for 1-2 days.
I don't know if I want to open it and look, I have done very little pouring in the last 1-2 years, between finance and time restrictions...I might have to replace my tumbler media...
But it would probably be a good idea to clean and dry it if you don't intend to use it for a while, if you are using it semi continuously, I think a good rinse and more solution is fine.
AG Ender thanks !
Wow! What torch do you use? Do you have a how to video?
RandyN I have done a few other how to videos, I use map has, I forget off hand the model, I believe I say it in one of my how to videos.
AG Ender Do you sell? Where?
RandyN I don't currently have any pieces available. www.redcarpethandpouredmetals.com is my website, and you can see most of the pieces I have poured.
I have had a few things come up in the last few months, so I haven't poured anything since early October, however I do have a couple people who have reached out wanting a piece, so I have some silver on the way. Depending on what your are interested in though, I might not have enough ordered.
What do you heat your silver up with?
Really cool. What kind of wood works best?
Thank you.
I've actually only tried a couple types, regular pine/fir framing wood or redwood, personally I liked how the redwood made the designs over the fir.
I did use a harder wood a couple times, but I do not know what it was, just some scrap I found.
The harder the wood, the shallower the burnout in the wood is, vs deeper burning in softer wood.
@@AGEnderRedCarpetHandPoured thank you so much for the quick reply. That's what I was thinking. I'm carving a Texas Star & maple leaf. I'm going to try it in red oak, white oak, and honey locust scraps I have laying around. I really appreciate the info.
@@RockyMountainBear no problem. If you can, let me know how those turn out, or shoot me some photos, redcarpethandpouredmetals@yahoo.com if you have the time and think about it.
I'm hoping to get back into the pouring swing again, but I've had some things keeping me from it for a bit now.
@@AGEnderRedCarpetHandPoured definitely! I'm probably going to do a tutorial of how to carve out the wood with a dremel, and/or only using chisels. Then, I'm sending them to someone who already has a furnace, crucible, etc. and they're going to make a video of that. I'll let you know soon as it's all done. 👍
@@RockyMountainBear thanks.
Great idea! Save $ on graphite molds.
Thank you. Can also make almost anything that I can think of :) or that someone would want to order
Cool! We're on our way to doing the same. We've subscribed and can't wait to see more videos.
GoldAndSilver.org thank you. Good luck :)
What kind of torch tip do you use ? I can't keep my silver hot enough for an easy poor. Gets hard during my pour.
as long as it is a tip that makes a fairly focused flame, I don't believe it matters, what I use is just how it came out of the package.This is the tip that I use.
www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-TS99T-Trigger-Start-Swivel-Torch-Head-TS99T/203694961
It also takes patience, especially if you are using propane instead of map gas, I will usually leave the heat on for at least an extra 30sec to a min after it looks like it is ready to pour. Also try to sort or "swish" the silver around in the dish so it all seems to be moving around and not sticking to the dis anywhere.
I do believe my other how to series goes through my process for the melting and pouring.
you should pour some gold into the wood molds
I would love to, though not really in a place to buy any, and no one has asked to send me any to melt and pour.
I've been mulling the idea of pouring my own since the costs is getting rather steep. At least I got the Iron frying pan and Dremel to start.
I rather not use wood molds
1st
laundering metals?