Should you buy .stl files for 3D Printing? Gambody T-60 Fallout Power Armour 3D Print Review
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- čas přidán 2. 02. 2017
- In this video I'll go through my experiences in 3D Printing the T-60 Power Armour model available from Gambody.com , an online marketplace for 3D Printable .stl files.
Should you buy files online for 3D Printing? Was the model "High-poly, amazingly detailed and absolutely error-free 3D // optimized for all types of 3D printers."? Better watch the video...
Link to the model tested - www.gambody.com/3d-models/fall...
Full disclosure: Gambody send a code to download this mode for free in return for a video review describing my experiences - all opinions expressed are my own.
The models were printed at 0.2mm layer heights at the provided scale using Simplify3D for slicing and the 3D Printer used was the Original Prusa i3 Mk2. The filament used was a custom blend of Grey PLA.
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You have to pay $30 for a model and it is still branded? That's awful!
Well I bet they are not so happy about contacting you about a review
My bigger concern is the legality of asking money for someone else's intellectual property.
it is a concern certainly, but not the biggest one raised
That is the fundamental concern that should drive anybody's decision, not to do so is agreeing that your own work is worthless as is everybody else's.
Imagine if your employer didn't pay you a full days wage because your colleague let you do it all then put their name on it at the end, and your employers didn't care? You get nothing and your colleague the pay for doing nothing and stealing your work.
It's exactly the same principal and if you think there are "bigger" concerns about this I would like to hear them please.
I agree with ChainsawDude, IP infringement isn't an issue that would terribly concern an end-user, if at all. It is an important issue for people who want to extract a passive revenue stream. I think that's a flawed business model for two reasons:
1) Imposing restrictions on what the end-user is able to do with the file, for which he or she payed , for the sake of your business model provides no benefits for the end-user. The end-user has no incentive to respect those restrictions unless he or she is also an IP owner.
2) There are many other people (including myself) who are willing to share their work for free with anyone to modify and share.
If you want to charge money for something that is inherently shareable, ask for money up front (kickstarter-style for example). That way you'll get your money and end-users won't be restricted for your sake. If that's doesn't provide enough money, do something else.
I think you misunderstand my point. The 3D model presented in this video and, as far as I can tell, most of the downloadable .stl files on that website contain models of characters/what have you which are the intellectual properties of the original creators (game makers). What right does Gambody have to sell Bethesda's intellectual property? Irrespective of who modeled the power armor for 3D printing, that model represents Bethesda's IP. That's the thing I have issue with.
Not to get into semantics (ill save that for the real lawyers lol). But (and you may know more than me here) if the model is created from scratch, does bethesda really have the IP rights to that? The figure/3d model? Although I will agree with you they are marketing it as a fallout t-60 power armor which is written into the games story, and almost definitely IP protected, it would seem to me, as long as they created the character from scratch they could argue it was just a coincidence it resembled it, or something along those lines(although they clearly backed themselves into a corner with the name). Although its possible they got/bought permission for the rights? Idk if its not legal it'll be interesting to see what happens.
Angus you're too nice! So they charge a lot, for near impossible to print files, that they may supply 'broken' and appear to be sourced via questionable methods? I think they're after a quick buck, and wouldn't touch them with a ten foot barge pole!
so you spend 30 dollars and they still put their name all over it? fuck that
Basically the site is a hive of copyright theft?
poorly done at that
I dont think those models have been tested in any capacity for fdm printing
They don't. I had to do a lot of work to get it working.
From the amount of support needed to print shows that the model has not be redesigned for the intention of fdm printing is is still just and organic model
633r this is something you would only want to try with a pva filament in a second extruder.
i'd be pissed paying 30 bucks for a non licensed model that was just a slopy up rez of a game ripped model that had their logos plastered in them. and not set up for printing.
GAMBODY? more like SCAMBODY! M I Rite?
Just more intellectual property theft brought to you by CHINA
@@walt_man Just casual racism brought to you be this asshole here ^
@@SaitoGray Hong Kong never belonged to China
@@kanesmith8271 And ?
@@SaitoGray he said China, not the Chinese, no racism detected
so they ripped the game obj added some detail fixed it up and selling it. got it.
Maker Mark and for more than you could get the game for and do it yourself.
"Fixed it up". It would have actually been worthwhile if they ACTUALLY fixed it up, like re-engineered as much as necessary to make it print well.
The whole thing has about as much effort gone into it as necessary to make the renders look good, plus an automatic pass to try and make it printable.
Yeah do it yourself and see how many hours does it take.
John Yang I’d rather do it myself/get it for free then support shady business
Nine Tails Yeah or you will never do it...
I wish you would have touched on the legality a bit more. I have challenged them on this issue in the past and they (the artist AND Gambody) just outright ignored me. The complete lack of any assertion that they have the rights to ANY of the game models or IP they're using is extremely worrisome. Why in the world would I pay $30+ for a model that isn't even legal? It's one thing to pick up a model casually from Thingiverse, where no money changes hands (even if it is still technically illegal). At least then the modeler isn't really benefiting. But this just reeks of a scam. They need to be called out more on this.
Yeah, i'm pretty sure it's illegal, no way that Disney would allow them to sell Star Wars stuff.
Why do you care?
@@octimus2000 it's a matter of ethics, if no one cared about anything we wouldn't have any traffic laws either.
If they aren’t competing with actual licensed products in production already then all this does is add another cool thing to the market that otherwise wouldn’t exist. Why would people complain about the availability of a cool model and be upset that multi-billion dollar corporations aren’t making even more money off their plantations of intellectual property. Those corporations didn’t even make most of the IPs they sell, they just bought the creators out or acquired them for cheap after forcing them out of business. Lol talking about ethics and copyright is a joke.
@@Batleth777 re: talking about Ethics and copyright is a joke.
Of course. It's all fun and games until you are an actual small independent creative who has his work stolen and sold on these platforms. Not enforcing intellectual property just means that all creatives, big or small, get fucked. But given you seem to not care about ethics much I'm sure you don't care either 🤷♂️
This was actually super helpful. As someone who went to school for 3d art this video had a lot of info I didn't even know to think about. Especially with the shells and having certain parts print separate due to the lvl of detail. Thanks Angus!
Wow that render on a table pissed me of so much
50.000 subs congrats Angus!!
Thanks for sharing this info Angus. Very interesting!
I am glad you are so honest and thorough. You really helped me see how important solid 3d models are to 3d printing.
Thank you! I’m glad I saw this video before I buy
It would be a great idea that gambody prints out the models and takes pictures of what you can expect and include support so it is really ready to print.
Angus, do you know if there is a way to increase the polygon count/resolution of an .stl in Meshmixer (aside from manually using brushes)? If not, do you know of any other (preferably free) software that can help with increasing resolution? Thanks.
Angus you should show people how to take what appears to be unprintable and then make it printable
633r yes!
There are many good methods but Angus has a fantastic platform that alot of people will see
Look back through his videos, he has several of them, from showing how he sliced up a Deathclaw model into parts using Meshmixer, to another where he "thickened up" an anime model that had too-thin parts to successfully print, etc. It already exists, folks. ;)
Ok I will thank you for the response
This might be a stupid question, I know squat about 3D printing in general. Could you not print the armor lying down on it's back? I seem to recall Prusa's printer's mostly having equal height/width/depth, so if it fits standing, it should fit lying down. All the support material would be behind the finished model, and in a display model as this, any roughness it might cause would be less visible. Just curious.
Good review!
And it brings up a question I've had for a while. Perhaps you can do a video on it some day. What special considerations should we take into account when designing a 3D printable model (with OnShape, say)? For example, do you design detail-shifts on the z-axis to occur only at multiples of some intended layer-height? (And similar considerations for the x,y plane?)
I asked about this exact problem with this exact model 3 months ago. I won't be buying anything from them again.
+NACAM42 how was it handled by them?
www.gambody.com/3d-models/fallout-t60-power-armor-3d-model-printing#comment-3035313026 It's the top comment. I was brand new to 3d printing at the time (still am really) and didn't know the terminology you were talking about but you can see what I was getting at. I will say that it did force me to learn to fix STLs, so it's not all bad.
Here's my print after I took the time to fix it. i.imgur.com/InogyTC.jpg And with a coat of primer i.imgur.com/M6eXkdz.jpg (next to a Type 9 from Elite: Dangerous).
So these are guaranteed to print, so does that mean because yours wouldn't go together in the end that they would give you your money back?
Legally they should, at least where i come from.
Where can I find the program you use to take modelss from games? You said you'd link it but I can't see it. HAve you made a video about it?
Amazing content Angus!
Great video, as was looking at these guys also. Would these issues still existing if you printed with a SLA?
Gesh.. talk about shady.. if they are charging those prices they better be testing all the models.. even myminifactory tests everything including the free models..
JAT.MN Does Myminifactory print them or just slice them?
They really print them. I upload stuff there and you need to wait until they printed it before its released. They even put their own printed pictures into your post
RandomLegend Wow that's awesome. I uploaded an iPhone X case a while back and it was approved but they posted no pictures unfortunately.
Awesome - you safed so many ppl so much money - and i learned in the same way a lot - thanks a lot for it!
So what's the perfect solution for HDetail figurine printing other that resin which is expressive messy bich to deal with?
Thanks for the video. What sites do you recommend for designers who have STL models to sale? I only have a few but they are unique and serve a useful function. Thanks
Do you have/can you make a video explaining shells and why they are bad etc.? Im having trouble understanding them.
Thanks as someone very new to 3D printing this was most helpful. Would have loved to see you print the lower poly power armor model you downloaded for free to see how well it printed.
Excellent review cheers
Thanks for an honest review Angus.
Thank you for this great video!
Thank you! Amazingly helpful!
Yay another review 😄
Could you make a video setting up the prusa in simplyfy 3d?
Hi. What if I decide to sell a 3d model without a printed image but has a screen capture of it tested fine in Mesh Mixer. Is that acceptable?
Copyright Infringement + Blatant False Advertisement - That's a winning combo.
Great Vid mate!!
As a 3d modeler, buying his first 3d printer, do you have any recommendations?
Looking for a 3d printer around 300 euro that is easy to use.
I got a gamboby ad because they are sponsoring you, and they said their products were flawless.
Baahaahhaha
Have you produced a video on using PVA ? Thanks
How about tank models from Gambody? Like Abrams? Won't it come fine since there are a lot of flat surfaces?
hi Angus maybe cheeky of me but can you put up the gantry its actually for an ironman model i have and want to print this gantry to hold it up
thank you
What about repeating the test with resin printing and seen if it changes something? After 2 years it is the go-to technology for figurines.
Thanks for keeping it real Angus.
5:00 when I first started printing with SLA I wondered about having detached objects. Because I know on Shapeways it's totally fine to do that. I've found that it's also totally fine with SLA printers, at least in my experience. It prints exactly the same as if they were attached.
Thanks for this Angus, I've been looking at Gambody stuff lately and this kind of makes me gunshy of placing a large order.
Hello Angus, (or anybody else who can answer :)
I am currently investing time into extracting models from games and 3D printing them. Personal use only, my own characters, they are not going for sale.
You mentioned that you will put some info in the description about means to do that, but I can't seem to find it. May I ask how are you extracting the meshes? For now I am using 3D Ripper DX, but it is really tricky and its support is completely shut down by its creator, not even the forum is online anymore. So I would be really interested if there was another way to do this. Thanks in advance!
you'd think for that price they would also include supports predone in the files. You'll have to add supports yourself
I think it would be interesting to buy the model again now and see if it was really fixed and not just fixed for you
What is the music in the outro?
I'd like to see one of these models printed on an SLA machine, although no consumer level SLA printer I'm aware of can handle a model of that size.
I'd be curious try this set of files on our big PolyJet printer at work. At 24 micron layer height and wax supports, I bet this model would look beautiful, assuming the STL was properly meshed beforehand. I've already printed chain mail on it, and that works great.
Hi Angus! Why didn't you take advantage of all the shells in the model and just print the figure in separate pieces?
How can they sell a model of the Falcon? Doesn't that breach copyright?
is the prusa i3 mk2 the main printer you use?
for $75 you can get a great plastic model of the Millennium falcon from a hobby shop... I think it's all a crap idea. the beautiful thing about the 3d printing community was the open source helpful nature of it. the makers, designers, manufacturers all seemed to do it more out of love of the hobby not money. sounds spiteful but I hope that site fails.
The funny thing is the $75 model is only the shell without any of the interior or exterior details, the total price of all the parts together is close to the $400 mark which is an insane price for someone else's IP
Some of us do sell our own original designs for 3D printing, and I certainly hope you don't lump us together with the people who sell others' intellectual property. While the community is of an open source nature there's no real reason why some of us shouldn't try to make a bit of money, if people are willing to pay (which they are). I assure you we do not kidnap people off the street in unmarked vans, and force them to buy our STL files at gunpoint :)
can you print this with your SLA printer please?
I mean, I wanted to try printing some kind of action figure at one point.... I will see.
I need to find a good store to order my kit first and see how much VAT and customs I will have to pay.
How can i pull files from my game
Thanks for this video. I have been looking at Gambody STLs. I'm definitely going to give them a miss now.
Angus, would love to see an updated 2024 edition of a Gambody review.
maybe u can re-try this on a sla printer to try ?
It will be interesting to see where this goes. Seems like there will be a big market for 3d models that are designed for 3d printers and will print well. But will it be worth it for model makers when it's so easy for people to share files?
Didn't see a link in the description.. Niftscope?
Uhm - ripping the model directly from the game can give you a far more detailed model, but requires some work.
The models usually come with not so high vertex-counts, but a lot of textures - and those should include distortion/normal maps.
If you apply those you can get the high quality models you normally see ingame.
(I did that with a few models from old PS2 games)
They look better in engine, but not as printable files. Normal/displacement maps are purely a visual effect, handled by the renderer. They won't give your actual model any more detail, they just tell the renderer to show the model a certain way on screen. As far as printing goes, the details need to be physically modeled in, not just rendered with a map.
*"Normal/displacement maps are purely a visual effect, handled by the renderer."*
No. The maps are just that, maps. You are not restricted to only using them for rendering, you can also apply them to the geometry and create a high-res model that way.
A Displacement-map is what it literally says - a map that contains the detailed displacements of the surface.
www.isaacbotkin.com/img/profilelg.jpg
This gives a pretty good idea of that.
nearly all programs allow you to do this - add a displacement-modifier, add the displacement-map, convert to mesh - and now you have a new, high poly model including all the details the texture had.
www.autodesk.com/techpubs/aliasstudio/2009/images/ALIAS/AS2009/English/UMeshes/Meshes_composite_graphics0001.png
Shows this step by step.
For normal-maps this is a bit more complicated, but still not hard to do.
And the creation of those displacement-maps is often quite nice for understanding this process:
A low-poly model is created, then a high-poly-model gets made based on that. And then the difference between those 2 is baked into a texture - this makes the whole process easily reversible.
(For normal maps it needs a bit of manual touchup, but can be done just as well)
Teach me your ways sensei. It would be cool to see all process on video starting with ripping a model from game (I heard Dawn of War has some good ones) to creating .stl file.
My mistake. You're right, it is entirely possible to make a high-res model based on that information. I thought you just meant applying the maps as textures haha.
ABaumstumpf That is awesome information. Holy mackerel!
Why not use meshmixer supports?
Great advice as always Angus. There are a lot of people that see models online and assume they are printable. Most of us learnt the hard way in the beginning :-)
Spike Kent .
That's why I like Myminifactory better than Thingiverse. All their models are guaranteed to print. Thingiverse is littered with lots of garbage, unrelated to 3d printing "items" and 3d models/renders that need a ton of work before you can print.
Sure, there is a lot of unprintable models on TV, which can cause a lot of problems for beginners. Maybe MMF needs a bit more promotion.
Generally I prefer to create my own models, and I do get ideas from TV. More often I find something I like but it's unprintable, so it gives me a challenge to redesign it. Which works for me
Better to print in resin?
Has anyone mentioned yet that the Millennium Falcon model shown actually costs $390 for all the "kits"?
Is there a torrent version? Not a lot of printables on piratebay, unfortunately.
Just grab the meshes from the games themselves. Can almost guarantee that's what the people who uploaded them did.
Even printable files like the ed209 On myminifactoy still needed cutting up so you don't use so many supports. I ended up cutting up the legs into 3 parts.
XD the chunck noris salt shaker commercial.
Great video. I honestly don't think those models are meant to be printed on FDM machines... maybe SLA or SLS?
I always check my downloaded files and repair them manually in c4d. The majority of them have intersections, people really need to learn about 3d modeling for 3d printing because it's just as important.
10:22 in and I just hoping you show how to cut it up to minimize the support like you said I think around five mins in. you actually have shown me tons for mesh mixer
I just thought about it. I understand why you did not show it. why do the work for gambody? you paid, it should be done for you.
I wasn't going to modify their file, as that's something beyond what you can expect from an average consumer. It should be printable as provided... :(
Yeah, I commented after the video.
I make my own. LIKE A BOSS!
let's just say it. it ain't worth the money! lol
thanks, Angus. I'm glad you revealed the 'truth' with your insights. thumbs up.
what is the name of the software u were using?
justtrolin meshmixer
Thanks for the excellent video!
I suppose that eventually someone will try to figure out how to add DRM to 3D patterns, to limit how many times you could print it - after you've paid for it. instead of buying physical products over and over, you'll wind up buying digital patterns that you have to print yourself over and over instead...
you can clearly see he downloaded the same models as you and just spent time cleaning it and adding the necessary detail.
Kirby Downey Time is money.
@@johnyang799 and using someone else's model is theft.
Angus, if you wanted to use the model and say scale it to life size, wouldn't it be better to have the multiple shells? I'm thinking of a cosplay with individual components printed out on a Gmax or Formbot.
Casey Annis That's something you would customize after the fact. Making appropriate cuts for your print volume. Most people would use these for figurines.
Ok, I'm still new to that aspect of modeling. I've really only been using modeling for mechanical parts for industrial use. Those parts tend to be manifold by design.
Casey Annis If you were modeling something similar for real life applications then you would have similar joints and separations. Since the suit needs to move the same as when it is animated. If you were modeling a stationary figurine though the separations would just be unnecessary work. The only separations should be parts that are assembled afterwards. So if this was for cosplay you would want to essentially build each piece like an actual suit of armor; small pieces that fit together after manufacturing with room for movement in the joints. On a stationary 3D print those are very unnecessary time consuming steps that will possibly decrease build strength. I specialize in photo realistic modeling and rendering; more just a general freelance artist and programmer. I don't even own a 3D printer so take what I say with a grain of salt.
I love watching these types of videos though so I do know a lot about 3D printing; just never tried it myself (poor).
I think that these hi poly models are made for resin printers and not so much FDM?
Hi Angus. you would think they would have also atleast made the chains link correctly so that it would move about. and i do not think i have seen that stand ingame. i will check there page out after. i will have to send you some of my tank stls for you to try out. :) keep up the good work Angus.
Id love to see you print the game version and show us what you would do differently.
Some work was done repairing, smoothing and modelling but yeah, you could pass the game mesh through netfab cloud or 3D builder and get it printable fairly easily.
thats because dual extruder and Pva is a really nice to have feature
You should try printing this model on an SLA printer I bet it'd look cool
The Gambody model I seen of The Mandalorian was full of detail and looked amazing. There’s a lady on CZcams named Kathy Millatt who built it.
I would have printed the armor lying down. Then clean up the supports with an craft knife. I print a lot of miniatures for D&D that are tiny, and most of my prints come out looking a lot better than that armor did. A lot of that was support issues and cleanup.
Could you not just lay the model on it's back? Minimizing the support material?
Good work old chap. This is how it is done.
I just bought the MadCat from Gambody and had a ton of trouble with it. The sample files will print, then after you buy the balance for $26 you find that none of the others will splice. Trying to deal with Brian Taylor at customer service was a total waste of time. I ended up having to get a chargeback from Paypal.
Sloppy slightly-massaged game rips? No thanks, I'll keep my money.
Nicoya Then make your own. Don't bs others time and effort.
i wanna see this model printed on the sla machine
I gotta be honest, I am wandering if combining some combination of shells would lead to a better result. Potentially longer printing time, but each could be better supported/oriented for the best detail. Potentially - deconstructed and laid out on the bed in a few prints. You'd then need to come back airfix style and glue them all together.
Of course - this is still a lot of hassle for that much money for a print, and you'd hope that if that's the best way to print them, they'd give you hints on that or have laid them out that way for you.
I am posting before watching the video. but I don't think anyone should pay for stl files unless you need something modeled specifically for you. but I do believe we should tip the designers. this include the sites who get their visitors from the designers hard work.
that model is subdivided...i think they put the 3d mesh on zbrush and dynamesh
PD: sorry for my english
Why did you print out at 0.2 instead of 0.1 or more ? Thats really shitty res.
Or use a resin printer.
Zbrush could create a single mesh with Zremesher, transfer detail to it and create a shell for Ninja flex or as a support brake so fewer supports are directly on your finished print. This would only take a few minutes with Zremesher, Decimate and export as STL file. So, Zbrush made Zbrush Core for $150.00 not sure if it can do this, but likely will like full Zbrush features do.
If you have a file like it I can show you by sending the edited file back to you to print out. Actually I could send you one that I have made I have your email.